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"SECOI^D,    REVISED    AND    ENLaS-C^ED    EDITION  OP*' 


ANDERSCH  BROS. 

Hunters  and  Trappers 

Guide 

ILI.USTRATING  THE 

Fur  Bearing  Animals 

OF 

North  America 

THE)  SKINS  OF  WHICH  HAVK  A  MARKET  VAIvUE. 


Describing  the  Various  Animals,  Geographical  lyocation,  Habits, 
Mode  of  lyiving.  Propagation,  and  how  to 

Hunt  and  Trap  Them 

WITH  REVISED 

Game  Laws 

OF  AI.I,  THE 

States  and  Territories  in  the  U.  S. 


How  to  Skin  Animals,  Manner  of  Stretching  Skins,  Trappers' 
Secrets,  with  Illustrations  of  Various 
Standard  Traps,  describes 
Skunk,  Mink,  Fox  and  Opossum  Farms 

and  how  and  where  to  raise  these  animals  for  profit,  number  required 
to  start  with,  size  of  farm,  how  to  breed, 
kind  of  food,  etc. 

By  ANDERSCH  BROS.,    -    Minnkapoi^is,  Minn. 


COPYRIGHT  1906 
BY 

ANDERSCH  BROS.,  MINNEAPOLIS,  MINN. 
ALL  RIGHTS  RESERVED 


Intnoductorv  Pnefacc. 


SPACE  of  three  years  has  now  elapsed  since  the  first  edition 
of  this  book  was  given  to  the  public;  the  appreciation  of  that 
volume  is  shown  by  the  remarkable  demand  that  bared  the  shelves 
before  the  trade  was  really  aware  of  the  existence  of  this  pub- 


lication. Scarcely  a  year  had  passed  before  the  necessity  for  a  second  edition 
or  re-print  dawned  upon  the  author,  who,  only  after  due  deliberation,  intelli- 
gent inquiry  and  assurance  of  co-operation,  undertook  to  improve  and  enlarge 
the  scope  of  its  usefulness  by  embodying  in  a  comprehensive  and  thorough 
manner,  new  secret  methods  and  the  experience  of  hundreds  of  experts  in  the 
vocation  of  hunting  and  trapping. 

The  deep  rooted  interest  in  this  volume  manifested  by  those  associated 
with  the  occupations  of  Hunting  and  Ji'apping,  the  public  in  general  and  the 
Fur  Trade  in  particular,  is  greatly  appreciated.  The  nature  o<  the  subject  will 
lead  the  reader,  as  it  has  the  author,  over  the  entire  New  World,  and  the 
ecliptic  penumbra  of  our  observation  is  extended  northward  to  the  frozen 
seas  and  southward  to  the  pampas. 

To  the  willing  observer  and  student  Natural  History,  like  Astronomy,  is 
ever  reaching,  and  when  once  taken  up,  the  subject  is  extremely  interesting. 
Lower  animals  play  an  important  part  in  man's  every  day  life,  and  we  largely 
owe  our  existence  and  sustenance  to  them.  They  are  useful  in  life  and  death, 
furnishing  us  with  meat,  fat,  milk,  fur,  wool,  drugs,  and  many  useful  and 
ornamental  articles;  they  carry  our  burdens  and  supply  us  with  comfort,  pro- 
tection and  companionship. 

This  work,  covering  as  it  does  a  field  not  hitherto  occupied,  embellished 
with  artistic  and  superb  illustrations  true  to  nature,  all  technical  and  scien- 
tific terms  and  descriptions  eliminated  by  the  use  of  plain,  common  language 
throughout,  should  be  acceptable  to  the  people  to  whom  it  is  particularly 
dedicated. 

The  form  of  this  work  has  necessarily  been  modified  in  order  to  bring 
the  whole  matter  within  reasonable  compass,  as  well  as  to  adapt  it  more  per- 
fectly to  the  wants  of  hunters  and  trappers,  which  it  is  designed  to  meet. 
The  technical  and  critical  information  has  been  condensed  as  far  as  was 
deemed  compatible  with  a  book  of  this  nature,  but  any  one  desiring  know- 
ledge of  a  distinctively  scientific  character  should  peruse  the  works  of  Muller, 
Haeckel,  Wallace,  Owen,  Darwin,  Von  Baer,  Cuvier,  Brehm,  Linneaus,  or  our 
own  Audubon,  Bachman,  Coues,  and  other  authors. 

We  are  greatly  indebted  to  the  many  hunters  and  trappers,  also  to  some 
of  the  publishers,  for  the  kindly  assistance  and  courtesies  extended,  in  the 
compilation  of  this  book,  and  many  thanks  are  accorded  them  for  their 
generous  co-operation.  /) 


Origin  and  Evolution 

OF 

Man,  Beast,  Weapons  and  Traps. 


PROF.  HAECHEL  has  satisfactorily  traced  man  in  the  process 
of  evolution  through  animal  and  vegetable  life  to  the  very 
lowest  form  of  life  consisting  of  a  minute  cell,  and  he  sup- 
poses that  this  cell  was  produced  by  or  from  inorganic  matter  by 
some  occult  process,  technically  denominated  as  spontaneous  gen- 
eration. Darwin  never  withdrew,  even  in  his  last  work,  the  sen- 
tence in  which  he  intimated  his  belief  ''that  life  may  have  been 
originally  breathed  by  the  Creator  into  a  few  forms  or  into  one/' 
He  traced  man  to  the  humble  and  unarmored  molluscs,  called 
Ascideans,  whence  man's  line  of  ancestry  ran  through  the  lower 
vertebrata;  thence  to  the  monotrematous  mammals,  and  finally 
to  the  anthropoid  apes. 

In  the  process  of  evolution,  when  animal  life  was  engendered 
from  the  vegetable,  the  resultance  of  some  form  of  copulation, 
the  conception  of  which  seems  impossible  for  local  realization 
and  description.  The  theological  version  of  Creation  and  divi- 
sion of  life  falls  asunder,  excepting  when  leaning  upon  Darwin's 
popular  intimation,  ''that  at  some  remote  period  life  may  have 
been  breathed  into  one  or  more  forms  by  the  Creator/'  but  very 
probably  the  infinite  spark  of  life  was  inborn  in  the  very  exis- 
tence of  being. 

Leaving  the  vegetable  and  animal  transmigrative  period  and 
skipping  a  million  years,  we  find  the  evolutionary  epoch  has  some- 
what specialized  the  living  forms,  but  man  is  yet  at  a  great  dis- 
tance. Nature,  or  the  natural  selection  and  survival  of  the  fittest 
has  conspicuously  developed  higher  and  higher  species,  and  fin- 
ally, after  an  elapse  of  ages  and  ages,  omitting  some  detailed 
histological  differentiations,  we  behold  the  concrete  result — man. 
The  mind  can  scarcely  perceive  the  slow  progress  in  the  advance- 
ment of  man,  and  the  necessary  ages  required  to  produce  man 
as  we  are,  and  as  we  find  him  today. 


10 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


Animal  Instinct  pregnant  crude  conception  of  animal  in- 

in  Man  stinct  in  man  as  relegated  to  us  from  the 

lower  forms,  seems  fair  to  be  exterminated 
in  the  future  progress  of  evolution.  One  can  perceive  the  marked 
comparative  abatement  of  these  instincts  when  the  highest  order 
of  man,  as  represented  by  the  American,  English,  German  and 
French,  is  compared  with  the  low  barbarous  and  uncivilized  tribes. 

This  energetic  progress  and  advancement  is  not  only  notice- 
able in  the  human  family  but  also  in  domestic  animals,  and  the 
influence  of  the  two,  coupled  with  the  ever  forward  evolutionary 
progress,  will  spread  to  wild  animals,  birds,  reptiles  and  fishes, 
and  in  the  ages  to  come,  the  will  of  man  in  a  still  higher  form, 
will  be  supreme  and  alone  accountable  to  nature  and  the  crea- 
tive mind. 

The  origin,  as  well  as  the  destiny  of  each 
As  iVIan  and  Beast     individual  is  from  nothing  to  nothing. 
Come  They  The  past  is  written  by  historians,  the 

Will  Go.  future  anticipated  by  scientists,  and  as 

each  generation  passes  along  the  path  of 
existence,  familiarizing  and  learning  by  their  investigation,  they 
each  leave  behind  some  useful  achievements  from  which  others 
profit.  What  is  true  in  the  human  family  is  reasonably  true  in 
a  milder  sense  of  animals,  but  notwithstanding  the  latter's  limited 
powers  of  beneficial  conception  they,  like  the  human  race,  learn 
by  lessons.  A  burnt  child  dreads  the  fire ;  so  does  a  trap-nipped 
fox  or  wolf  dread  iron  or  man's  contrivance  to  capture  him. 
The  animal  language,  be  it  a  facial  expression,  action  of  the 
body,  or  sounds  from  the  mouth,  are  all  expressive  and  the  mean- 
ing intelligently  conveyed. 

The  bodies  of  the  first  animals  were  of 
diminutive  size  and  form  and  that  the 
The  Lost  Species      change  from  plant  to  animal  life  took 
^"^    .  place    in    some   tropical    climate  seems 

Extermination        reasonable;  also  that  ages  were  required 
of  Animals.  ^j^^  climatical  distribution  of  life  species, 

especially  of  terrestrial  habitat.  The  ex- 
istence of  the  mammoth  before  the  glacial  period,  and  that 
these  and  other  monstrous  animals  were  killed  by  the  cave 
dwellers,  is  demonstrated  by  the  weapons,  remains,  and  other 
items  found  in  the  excavations.  Dawkins  found  engraved 
ivory  with  the  cave  men  of  Pleisteone,  in  the  cave  of  La  Made- 
line. Tools,  hunting  weapons,  dug-outs,  traps,  spears,  snares, 
and  remains  of  bodies  indicating  extinct  species,  were  found 
in  many  parts  of  Europe,  Asia,  and  in  America.  Thousands 
of  species  were  lost  in  the  glacial  period,  also  in  the  Bibli- 


Anderscli  Bros.'  Hunters  and  Trappers  Gnide.  11 


cal  denudation  of  Asia,  still  others  became  extinct  by  disease, 

ravages  of  strong  animals,  and  by  confusion  of  propagation. 

That  many  species  became  extinct  by  being  zealously  hunted  and 

trapped  by  man  cannot  be  doubted.    Even  in  our  day,  we  grasp 

the  passing  of  the  buffalo,  the  beaver,  and  the  otter,  and  scox^es 

of  other  animals  and  fishes,  and  notwithstanding  the  severe  laws, 

the  period  of  total  extermination  of  the  above  mentioned  species 

is  not  centuries  but  years.    In  our  own  period  of  evolutionary 

changes,  we  harbor  the  true  belief  of  total  extermination  of  the 

American  Indian,  many  species  of  animals  and  kinds  of  plant 

life.    On  the  other  hand  wx  see  the  many  herds  of  cattle,  sheep, 

swine,  and  the  human  family  numerously  enlarged  and  improved. 

We  ponder  at  the  many  inventions,  discoveries,  manipulations, 

watch  the  winters  and  the  summers  pass  each  other,  see  our 

friends  go,  hear  of  distant  calamities,  note  earthy  disturbances, 

energetic  changes,  progress — call  it  all  evolution. 

^  .  .      -  ...  Man's  earliest  implement  of  defense,  the 

Origin   of   Weapons      ^    ,         .  ,^   ,  .  ... 

.  _  first  assistance  to  his  physical  prowess 

and  Trace.  •    .1       i  1  •  r  11 

m  the  chase  and  m  combat,  was  when  he 

stooped,  picked  up  a  stone,  and  hurled  it  at  his  adversary.  A 
club  was  the  second.  The  third  and  fourth  in  order  was  the 
spear  or  the  sling.  We  now  pass  to  the  stone  age  and  we  find 
the  first  true  implements,  the  result  of  man's  study  and  labor, 
the  commonest,  most  widely  distributed,  was  the  Imperforate 
axe,  of  roughly  dressed  flint,  diorite,  greenstone,  or  almost  any 
material  workable  into  desired  forms  and  that  retained  the  requi- 
site sharpness  of  edge.  Daggers,  swords,  spear  heads,  made  out 
of  bronze  came  next  in  order.  The  bow  and  arrow  is  traced 
to  the  bronze  age,  but  whether  its  use  predominated  in  an  earlier 
period  is  lost  in  obscurity.  The  earliest  tools  were  flaked  stones 
and  cracked  bones,  and  one  can  conceive  the  possible  result 
from  such  tools  in  the  forms  of  weapons. 

The  capture  of  animals  by  snares  was  first  introduced  in  the 
bronze  age  and  the  existence  of  deadfalls  at  times  when  Europe 
had  a  tropical  climate  is  augmented  by  discoveries  made  in  gla- 
cial deposits.  Historians  relate  that  prisoners  were  set  at  liberty 
during  the  early  ages  for  the  purpose  of  capturing  wild  beasts 
of  prey,  and  upon  their  return  with  evidence  of  success  were 
pardoned,  but  invariably  they  were  devoured  by  the  beasts  that 
they  set  out  to  kill  or  capture.  Many  that  were  fortunate  in  this 
pursuit  returned  to  join  those  that  were  not,  and  these  men  soon 
became  the  expert  hunters  and  trappers  of  those  days.  These 
men  killed  or  captured  the  wild  beasts  by  running  them  into 
self  constructed  dens,  dug-outs,  enclosures,  or  waylaid  them  in 


12 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


paths  and  killed  them  with  clubs,  slings,  spears,  lances,  arrows, 
etc. 

The  American  Indian,  probably  greater  developed  in  the  trait 
of  hunting  and  trapping,  confined  himself  largely  to  hunting 
such  beasts  that  gave  him  food  and  clothing  and  such  skins  as 
were  mediums  of  barter  with  more  distant  tribes.  The  bow  and 
arrow,  battle  axe  of  simplest  form,  and  spears,  predominated, 
but  in  later  years,  or  in  places  where  game  was  not  plentiful,  figure 
four  arrangements,  dug-outs,  pit  and  deadfalls  were  resorted 
to.  Probably  no  other  tribe  or  nation  were  as  successful  in  the 
art  of  lassoing  and  snaring  large  and  small  animals  as  the 
American  Indian,  likewise  the  original  American  race  as  con- 
stituted by  the  many  tribes  were  more  proficient  and  still  greater 
experts  with  the  bow  and  arrow. 

The  use  of  poison  in  the  destruction  of  animals  is  recorded 

by  Chinese  long  before  the  Biblical  version.    Poisoned  spears 

and  arrows  were  used  in  warfare  long  before  the  Christian  era, 

and  the  American  Indian  knew  the  effect  of  poison  hundreds 

of  years  before  Columbus  touched  our  shores. 

.      _  .      Leaving:  ancient  arms,  weapons,  traps, 

Modern  Traps  and        ,  r      -^j-  n    i       ^  i. 

Wea  ons  dug-outs,  pitfalls,  box  traps,  bows,  spears, 

slings,  set  arrows,  drop-weights,  and  dis- 
regarding the  doubt  as  to  whether  gunpowder  was  used  in  China 
and  India  at  a  remote  period  and  whether  the  combination  of 
potassium  nitrate,  carbon  and  sulphur  was  discovered  in  the 
1 2th  century,  we  skip  this  period  to  study  the  weapons,  traps 
and  methods  employed  by  the  native  Indian  and  hunters  and 
trappers  operating  in  the  United  States  and  Canada,  during  the 
19th  and  20th  century.  The  interested  reader  will  now  please 
peruse  the  following  pages,  first  to  form  a  thorough  acquaintance 
of  the  animal  by  studying  the  descriptive  articles  in  the  fore  part 
of  this  volume,  later  digesting  the  modern  methods  of  hunting 
and  trapping,  and  finishing  up  by  reading  the  hundreds  of  origi- 
nal articles  from  experienced  hunters  and  trappers. 


The  Fur  Bearing  Animals 


North  America 

WHOSE  SKINS  HAVE  A  MARKET  VALUE 


Minutely  Describing,  Illustrating  and  Classifying  the  Various 
Animals,  their  Characteristics  and  Habits,   Mode  of 
Living,  Propogation,  Food,  Geographical 
Ldcation,  Etc.,  Etc. 


THE  WEASEL. 

(Ger.  Wicsel,  Szv.  Vessla,  Lat,  Ptitorius  Vulgaris.) 

LITTLE  carnivorous  animal,  the  smallest 
f}  of  the  marten  or  weasel  family,  is  found  in 
|)  nearly  every  state  and  territory  in  the 
Union,  Audubon  says,  ''also  in  Alaska." 
What  Dr.  Coues  says  of  the  Putorius  er- 
minea,  with  slight  modifications,  is  also  true 
of  the  weasel :  ''A  creature  of  thoroughly 
and  conspicuous  circumpolar  distribution, 
extending  probably  as  near  the  pole  as  any 
land  animal,  it  is  modified,  when  changed  at  all,  by  latitude  as  ex- 
pressed in  the  climate  to  which  it  is  subjected,  state  of  its  food 
supply,  etc.'' 

The  American  weasel  resembles  the  European,  but  a  difiference 
of  length  in  the  vertabrae  and  color  of  fur  on  the  tip  of  tail,  is 
noticeable,  and  climatic  conditions  of  Europe,  like  that  of  this 
hemisphere,  are  responsible  for  the  variation  in  body,  size,  color, 
etc. 

On  this  continent  we  can  divide  this  little  courageous  animal 
into  separate  groups,  so  as  to  give  a  closer  and  more  definite  de- 
scription of  their  size,  color,  habits  and  respective  value  of 
their  skins  from  the  manufacturer's  point  of  view. 

First'  smallest  weasel  on  this  continent  is  chiefly  found  in 

the  southern  and  middle  states,  often  seen  and  known 
to  inhabit  western  as  well  as  Atlantic  states.  It  is  sometimes  con- 
fused with  young  northern  species  during  the  summer  months, 


14 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


which  it  closely  resembles,  and  perhaps  occasionally,  at  least  it  is 
so  claimed  by  naturalists,  seen  in  northern  states  as  far  as  New 
York,  Minnesota  and  Washington.  This  species  is  easily  dis- 
tinguished from  the  larger  variety  by  its  short  tail,  smallness  of 
body  and  continued  brown,  chestnut  or  chocolate  dress,  winter 
and  summer.  The  belly  portion  however,  is  covered  with  a  strip 
of  light  colored  fur,  beginning  with  extreme  end  of  upper  lip, 
continuing  along  its  neck,  belly,  and  ending  at  the  anus,  though 
somewhat  dividing  and  terminating  systematically  at  the  inner 
portion  of  the  knee. 

The  body  measures  six  to  seven  and  one-half  inches,  rarely 
eight  inches,  to  which  a  tail  varying  from  two,  two  and  one-hall 
or  three  inches,  must  be  added.  The  black  furred  tip  of  tail  is 
less  conspicuous.  The  animal  is  equally  ferocious,  and  its  small 
size  enables  it  to  enter  openings  apparently  not  exceeding  one 
inch  in  diameter. 

Second-   ^^^^^ably  the  best  known  amongst,  the  weasel  is  the 
large,  brown,  chocolate,  chestnut  colored  animal  that 
inhabits  the  middle,  northern,  eastern  and  western  states.  Is 
found  sparingly  in  the  southern  states  and  Canada. 

The  body  of  this  species  measures  ten  to  fourteen  inches  from 
nose  tO'  root  of  tail,  the  latter  attaining  a  length  of  from  four 
tO'  eight  and  one-half  inches,  depending  upon  the  maturity  of 
the  animal.  The  body  is  more  cylindrical  and  plump,  as  compared 
with  the  first  described  species.  Has  an  unusually  long  neck,  and 
its  tail  (of  variable  length),  attains  a  greater  length  as  compared 
with  either  of  the  other  twO'  species.  The  ears  are  large,  high, 
and  orbicular.  The  legs  are  much  stouter  and  its  toes  fairly 
covered  with  long,  coarse  hair  over-lapping  the  claws.  The  habits 
of  this  species,  like  all  others,  is  terrestrial,  arboreal  and  not  aqua- 
tic. 

During  the  late  spring,  summer  and  fall  months,  the  body  is 
covered  with  rather  a  thin  pelage  of  brown,  chocolate  or  chest- 
nut color  with  a  somewhat  lighter  colored  undergrowth  of  fur 
fibres.  The  belly  portion,  beginning  with  the  under  lip  is  of  a 
yellowish  cast,  and  this  color  extends  to  the  inner  portion  of  the 
legs.  Quite  often  a  white  strip  of  fur  is  noticed  extending  from 
the  lip,  neck  and  chest,  and  terminating  near  the  anus.  At  other 
times  the  under  lip  is  covered  with  clear  white  pelage  and  the  bellv 
with  the  afores-^id  yellow  or  whitish  fur.  The  above  described 
change  in  the  animal's  pelage  is  especially  true  of  those  inhabiting 
the  extreme  northern  p^rts  of  the  United  States.  The  clear  white 
pelaee  covers  the  entire  bodv,  head,  limbs  and  tail,  with  the 
exception  of  the  extreme  pencil-like  tip.  It  should  be  noted  that  , 
not  all  the  animals  change  their  outer  garment  from  the  brown 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


15 


to  the  white  color,  especially  in  the  middle  section  of  this  country 
where  the  climatic  conditions  are  not  as  favorable  as  compared 
with  the  animals  inhabiting  the  more  northern  part  of  the  United 
States. 

1  have  seen  and  examined  as  many  as  three  thousand  skins 
in  one  season  that  more  or  less  indicated  the  change  from  the 
white  to  the  brown  and  the  brown  to  the  white  fur,  and  at  inter- 
vals examined  hundreds  of  skins  taken  from  animals  during  the . 
winter  months  that  failed  to  realize  for  the  owner  any  remuner- 
ation, due  to  the  predominating  brown  color,  occasionally  partly 
colored  with  intermingled  white  and  brown  guard  hairs,  and  semi- 
brown  undergrowth  of  fur  fibres.  Only  such  skins  having  a 
clear  white  coat  of  fur,  have  any  commercial  value.  These  are 
sold  as  ermine  skins,  at  a  lower  range  of  prices,  though  objections 
are  plentiful.  This  species  is  easily  distinguished  by  the  furrier, 
due  to  its  long  tail  and  smallness  of  body  as  compared  with  the 
Siberian  ermine. 

On  approach  of  cold  weather,  (October,  November),  the  outer 
garment  gradually  changes  from  brown  to  the  white  ermine  coat 
of  fur,  and  by  December  or  latter  part  of  November  the  animal's 
outward  appearance  resembles  that  of  the  ermine. 
Third-  ^^^^  ^^^^  species,  often  called  the  ''American  Ermine" 
is  found  in  the  northern  part  of  the  United  States, 
Canada,  and  Alaska.  It  resembles  the  Siberian  ermine  more 
closely  than  the  other  two  species  above  described.  (See  article 
under  Ermine.) 

^  .  r>  .  I  know  of  no  animal  that  is  more  courag^eous 
General  D6scrip~  •  ... 

"  when  size  and  ferocity  is  considered,  than  the 

tion    and  i     t.  i  r 

Habits  weasel,    it  openly  wages  war  upon  many  of 

the  larger  quadrupeds,  and  by  its  quickness, 

ferocity  and  deadly  attack,  causes  dreadful  ravages  amongst 

them. 

The  body  is  extremely  elongated  and  appears  longer  on  ac 
count  of  its  neck  and  head  being  of  same  circumference,  and  its 
ability  to  stretch  its  body,  especially  when  seeking  to  enter  small 
crevices  of  rocks,  knot-holes,  as  well  as  other  openings  made 
by  such  animals  as  the  mouse,  rat  or  squirrel.  The  legs  arc 
very  short  and  thin,  and  the  paws  extremely  tender,  being  cov- 
eired  with  a  hairy  growth,  and  its  toes  are  the  possessors  of 
sharp  claws  which  are  used  to  great  advantage  by  the  animal 
in  climbing.  It  inhabits  plains  as  well  as  mountains,  and  is 
known  to  roam  in  the  forests  where  it  seeks  its  principal  food 
supply.  Even  the  large  muskrat  falls  prey  to  the  little  weasel, 
also  moles  and  rabbits ;  is  known  to  enter  the  chicken  coop, 
killing  as  many  as  twenty-five  birds  in  one  night.    It  is  ex- 


16 


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tremely  fond  of  killing  small  animals  and  birds,  not  only  for 
food  purposes,  but  more  so  for  pleasure.  It  possesses  unusual 
courage  and  seemingly  with  unlimited  daring  and  boldness, 
affronts  large  animals ;  is  known  to  pounce  upon  sheep,  calves  and 
other  domestic  animals,  who  rid  same  off  their  backs  with  diffi- 
culty. No  small  animal  possesses  immunity  from  the  weasel, 
but  in  its  turn  is  also  hunted  and  destroyed  by  the  larger  species 
of  its  tribe,  such  as  the  mink,  marten  and  other  carnivora. 

Its  favorite  hlold  or  bite  is  on  the  victim's  neck,  head  or  throat. 
Not  only  will  the  weasel  or  ermine  lay  in  wait  for  a  possible 
victim,  but  stealthily  follow  the  tracks  and  pounce  upon  the 
victim's  back,  which,  unaware  of  the  danger,  succumbs  in  a  rather 
one-sided  combat.  It  pursues  birds  of  all  kinds  and  it  is  common 
for  hunters  to  disturb  the  animal  while  so  occupied. 

A  certain  European  writer  relates  an  instance  where  a  large 
bird'  of  prey  captured  a  weasel,  and  with  it  in  its  talons,  rose 
in  the  air.  In  a  few  minutes,  however,  the  bird  began  to  show 
signs  of  uneasiness,  rising  rapidly  in  the  air,  or  as  quickly  falling, 
and  wheeling  irregularly  around,  whilst  it  was  evidently  en- 
deavoring to  force  some  obnoxious  thing  from  it  with  its  feet. 
After  a  short,  but  sharp  contest,  the  bird  fell  suddenly  to  the 
earth,  not  far  from  the  observer  who  intently  witnessed  the 
interesting  maneuver,  and  saw  the  weasel,  apparently  unhurt, 
scamper  away.  Upon  examination  he  found  that  the  weasel 
had  severed  a  large  blood  vessel,  also  ate  a  big  hole  under  the 
bird's  wing. 

The  animal  frequently  visits  nests  located  in  the  loftiest  trees, 
in  clefts  and  rocks,  in  search  of  eggs,  young  and  old  birds. 
Many  a  mother  bird  has  lost  her  life  in  protecting  her  young,  and 
often  in  such  battle  the  weasel,  in  misjudgment  of  distance, 
weakness  of  branch  or  limb,  and  at  other  times  due  to  the  savage 
attack  of  the  mother,  is  hurled  to  the  earth. 

The  mother  brings  forth  a  litter  of  four  to  eight  young  at 
a  time,  which  are  born  blind,  and  generally  in  a  hollow  tree  or 
log,  under  a  pile  of  rocks  or  in  some  burrow,  softly  padded  with 
hay,  dry  leaves  and  similar  vegetation.  If  the  young  are  in  danger, 
the  mother  will  carry  them  off  in  cat  fashion  to  a  place  of  safety 
and  protects  them  with  unusual  courage,  and  if  necessary,  with 
her  life.  The  mother  loves  her  young  dearly,  who,  like  kittens 
are  amusing  and  playful.  An  instance  is  recited  where  the 
mother  sacrificed  her  life  in  protecting  her  young  in  a  desperate 
encounter  against  a  dog,  who  upon  the  close  of  the  combat  was 
bleeding  furiously  about  the  lip,  head,  ears  and  neck.  At  the 
age  of  twelve  months  the  young  have  generally  attained  their 
maturity  and  tlie  life  of  the  animal  is  from  six  to  ten  years. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


17 


One  must  accede  to  this  animal  a  wider  and  more  extended 
range  of  activity  against  a  greater  variety  of  objects ;  possessing 
persevering  and  enduring  powers  of  chase,  with  a  natural  love 
of  destructiveness,  taking  more  life  than  is  necessary  for  its 
actual  wants.  The  great  cats,  who  procure  their  food  supply  by 
particular  mode  of  attack,  their  hunger  being  satisfied,  quietly 
wait  until  again  prompted  by  hunger.  This  is  not  so  with  the 
weasel  or  ermine.  No  animal  or  bird  with  insufificient  strength 
or  other  powers  of  self  defence,  is  beyond  their  ruthless  and 
relentless  pursuit.  This  enemy  assails  them  not  only  on  the 
ground,  but  under  it,  on  trees,  and  some  claim,  in  the  water. 
Swift  and  sure  of  foot,  keen  of  scent,  he  is  able  to  track,  run 
down  his  prey,  and  make  the  fatal  spring  upon  them  unawares ; 
owing  to  litheness  and  slenderness  of  body  he  is  able  to  follow 
the  smaller  animals  through  the  intricacies  of  their  hidden  abodes 
and  kill  them  in  their  homes.  It  is  evident  that  if  he  does  not  kill 
simply  in  gratification  of  supreme  bloodthirstiness,  he  at  any 
rate  deliberately  kills  more  than  is  necessary  for  his  require- 
ments. His  parallel  cannot  be  found  among  the  larger  Car- 
nivora.  Yet  which  one  of  the  larger  animals  will  defend  itself 
or  its  young  at  such  hazardous  risks?  The  physiognomy  of  the 
weasel  will  suffice  to  betray  its  character.  The  teeth  are  almost 
of  the  highest  known  raptorial  character;  the  jaws  are  worked 
by  enormous  masses  of  muscles  covering  all  the  side  of  the 
skull.  The  forehead  is  low,  the  nose  sharp,  the  eyes  small, 
penetrating,  cunning  and  glitter  with  an  angry,  green  light. 
There  is  something  peculiar,  moreover,  in  the  way  that  this 
fierce  face  surmounts  a  body  extraordinarily  wiry,  lithe,  and 
muscular.  When  the  creature  is  glancing  around,  with  the  neck 
stretched  up,  and  flat  triangular  head  bent  forward,  swaying  from 
one  side  to  the  other,  we  catch  the  likeness  in  a  moment — the 
image  of  a  serpent. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  19 


THE  NORTH  AMERICAN  ERMINE. 

(White  Weasel.    Ger.  Hermelin,  Sm.  Hermelin,  Eng.  Stoat  & 
Ermine,  Lat.  Pntorius  Erminea.) 

S  STATED  elsewhere,  this  animal  resembles 
the  Siberian  Ermine  very  closely  and  there 
is  no  apparent  good  reason  why  the  change 
in  name  from  White  Weasel  to  Ermine  is 
improper  from  a  commercial  and  scientific 
[standpoint.    Dr.  Coues,  after  a  thorough  ex- 
amination, heralds  the  change,  and  in  his 
view  we  fully  concur.    The  only  difference 
noticeable  is  that  the  body  is  slightly  smaller, 
the  fur  not  as  long,  neither  quite  as  silky. 
The  peculiar  sulphur-like  yellow  color  is  noticeable  in  all  species 
of  the  erminea,  also  the  pencil-like  formation  on  tip  of  tail. 

The  animal  does  change  its  outer  garment  periodically  but  the 
change  is  not  so  sudden  as  certain  authors  relate.  Bell  states : 
'The  winter  change  of  color  which  this  species  so  universally  as- 
sumes in  the  northern  climates  is  affected  not  by  loss  of  the  sum- 
mer coat,  and  the  substitution  of  the  new  one  for  the  winter,  but 
by  the  actual  change  of  the  color  of  the  existing  fur.''  Another 
prominent  author  states  his  views  in  the  following  words :  ''The 
transition  from  the  summer  to  the  winter  colors,  is  primarily 
occasioned  by  actual  change  of  temperature,  and  not  by  the  mere 
advance  of  the  season.''  Mr.  Blyth,  commenting  upon  the  above 
two  assertions,  has  the  following  to  say:  "Authors  are  wrong 
in  what  they  have  advanced  respecting  the  mode  in  which  this 
animal  changes  its  color,  at  least  in  autumn;  for  in  a  specimen 
which  I  lately  examined,  which  was  killed  during  the  autumnal 
change,  it  was  clearly  perceivable  that  the  white  hairs  were  all 
new,  not  the  brown  changed  in  color." 

Close  observation  of  the  animal  and  more  so  in  the  handling 
of  thousands  of  skins  from  animals  killed  at  different  periods  of 
the  year,  give  one  the  opinion  that  the  animal  changes,  rather 
sheds,  its  coat  twice  a  year.  In  autumn,  September  and  Novem- 
ber, varying  somewhat  in  the  different  latitudes,  the  summer  hair, 
gradually,  almost  imperceptibly,  drops  out,  and  is  immediately 
succeeded  by  a  fresh  coat,  which  in  the  course  of  ten  to  twent> 
days  becomes  white.  In  the  spring  months  the  change  in  color  is 
just  the  opposite.  The  change  is  natural,  not  only  from  the  out- 
ward appearance,  but  also  from  the  flesh  part  of  the  skin.  The 
inner  part  of  the  skin,  after  all  flesh  and  fat  is  removed  and 


20 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


becomes  dry,  has  the  natural  white  and  prime  color.  The  skin  is 
thin  and  clear,  not  so  when  the  skin  is  removed  from  the  animal 
during  its  shedding  period  in  the  spring,  at  which  period  the 
outer  portion  of  the  skin  is  black  and  unprime.  At  this  period  the 
new  fur  fibers  are  still  perceptible  and  the  old  guard  or  outer 
hairs  are  loose  in  their  respective  cells.  Subsequently  the  change 
in  color  of  this  animal's  fur  comes  in  periods  when  other  ani- 
mals shed  their  outer  garment  to  a  greater  or  less  extent. 

The  male  is  invariably  larger  than  the  female.  Both  are  pro- 
vided with  glands  from  which  the  animal  when  under  the  influ- 
ence of  fear,  anger  or  sexual  passion,  emits  a  peculiar  fluid  of 
a  highly  penetrating,  offensive  and  horrible  odor.  In  color  the 
fluid  is  yellow,  and  it  is  believed  that  this  fluid  is  responsible  for 
the  yellowish,  sulphur-like  color  of  the  pelt.  Others  again  state 
positively  that  this  peculiar  color  on  the  fur  is  the  result  of  the 
animal's  unclean  habits,  abode,  and  continued  contact  with  their 
own  or  the  mate's  water.  The  fluid  containers  or  glands  are 
situated  one  on  each  sid^  of  the  anus  just  upon  the  verge  of  the 
opening.  On  the  animal  slightly  averting  the  anus,  these  papillae 
may  be  readily  perceived.  Slight  pressure  will  cause  them  to 
stand  erect,  and  at  the  animal's  pleasure  may  squirt  and  distri- 
bute its  fluid  in  a  firm  spray  at  a  variable  distance  not  exceeding 
two  feet.  At  other  times  the  fluid  trickles  in  drops  or  in  a  stream 
about  its  parts. 

The  average  measurement  of  skins  received  from  Canada  and 
northern  part  of  United  States  indicate  that  the  body  of  the 
largest  animal  is  15  inches  in  length  and  the  yearlings  about  8 
to  9  inches.  Many  skins  are  received  indicating  that  they  were 
taken  oflf  from  kittens  measuring  5  to  6  inches  in  length  and  ^ 
to  I  inch  in  width.  The  large  skins  usually  measure  13  to  15 
inches  long,  2^  to  3^  wide.  The  length  of  tail,  varying  some- 
what, is  usually  2  to  4  inches.  Once  in  a  great  while  a  clear 
white  skin  with  a  longer  tail,  is  received,  but  presumably  this 
is  an  exception,  and  possibly  the  animal  emigrated  from  a  more 
southern  latitude.  A  large  number  of  brown  skins  (summer) 
from  the  same  region  received  during  the  late  spring  and  summer 
months,  are  practically  of  the  same  size  and  dimensions.  See 
illustrations  of  skins  elsewhere  in  this  volume,  also  article  "Trap- 
ping and  Preparing  Skins." 

This  animal  as  well  as  the  weasel,  shows  no  sign  of  becoming 
exterminated.  Higher  prices  for  their  pelts  has  a  tendency  to 
increase  the  activity  on  the  part  of  the  hunter  and  trapper  in 
pursuing  same,  as  will  be  seen  in  the  table  of  number  of  skins 
marketed  in  this  country  and  London.  In  former  years  the 
ermiine  fur  was  controlled  by  royalty,  and  certain  penalties  by 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


21 


law  were  attached  to  outside  persons  wearing  garments  made 
from  these  skins,  but  of  late  years,  owing  to  the  large  number 
marketed,  and  from  other  causes,  the  skins  are  used,  for  various 
purposes  and  by  all  classes  of  people,  not  only  in  Europe,  but 
also  in  the  United  States  and  Canada. 

The  price  of  the  skins  varies  considerably,  depending  upon  the 
demand  and  supply.  The  skins  of  the  European  ermine  ranges 
from  50c  to  $2.50  while  that  of  the  American  species 
including  the  white  northern  weasel,  very  seldom  exceeds  $1.00 
and  in  most  cases  25  to  75  cents  being  paid  the  trapper.  The 
last  two  years  however,  are  an  exception,  and  the  ruling  price 
for  good  skins  ranged  from  75  cents  to  $1.25,  one  American 
concern  alone  marketing  in  London  60,000  skins. 

Tlie  skins  are  used  for  various  purposes,  principally  for  ladies' 
wearing  apparel,  on  royal  clothes  and  garments,  at  other  times  in 
connection  with  other  furs,  principally  with  krimmer,  Persian 
lamb,  seal,  etc.  The  yellowish,  sulphur-like  parts  are  used  in 
conjunction  with  the  black  pencil-like  tip  of  the  tail.  Manu- 
facturers dislike  the  sulphur-like  color  on  the  skins ;  such  skins 
are  commercially  called  ''stained''  and  bring  a  less  price  than 
those  that  are  clear  white.  (For  mode  of  propagation  and  habits, 
see  article  under  Weasel.) 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  23 


THE  MINK. 

(Ger.  Nertz,  Lat.  Piitorius  (Lutreola)  vison.) 

T  IS  not  commonly  known  that  mink  and  skunk 
are  now  the  greatest  producers  of  revenue  to  the 
American  hunter '  and  trapper ;  the  reader  can 
judge  for  himself,  especially  after  perusing  the 
table  on  a  subsequent  page,  which  gives  the  num- 
ber of  skins  marketed  in  a  given  period. 

The  mink  belongs  to  the  weasel  family  and  is 
found  in  North  America,  Europe  and  Asia. 
Naturalists  divide  the  North  American  mink  into  two,  sometimes 
into  three,  separate  species,  but  I  believe  that  there  is  no  good 
occasion  to  make  such  division.  If  same  is  desirable  from  a  de- 
scriptive and  scientific  point  of  view  there  can  easily  be  made  as 
many  as  two  or  three  divisions  of  animals  in  a  single  state,  and 
probably  twenty  or  thirty  in  the  entire  northern  hemisphere.  T\k 
fur  trade  has  its  own  division,  for  instance:  Southern,  South- 
western, Central,  Eastern,  Northern,  Fish,  Prairie,  Cotton  and 
the  fine  Northeastern  and  Canadian. 
De"?cri  tion  ^his  animal  differs  notably  from  the  weasel  or 
ermine  in  its  larger  size,  much  stouter  form,  and 
lasting  color  of  its  pelage.  It  resembles  the  marten,  also  the  wild 
ferret.  The  ears  are  short,  well  rounded,  furred  both  sides,  and 
the  adjacent  fur  covers  members  in  certain  altitudes.  The  head 
is  small,  rather  low  and  flat,  sub-triangular,  with  a  rather  well 
rounded  otter  like  mouth.  The  lower  portion  of  its  mouth  is 
small.  The  extremity  of  the  snout  is  protuberant  and  definitely 
naked. 

Its  legs  are  stout,  short,  and  well  proportioned.  The  front 
legs  measure  to  2^4  inches  in  length,  the  rear  ones  always 
exceeding  the  front  by  ^  to  %  inches.  Each  of  the  four  feet  have 
five  rather  long  toes,  which  are  armed  with  short,  crooked  claws. 
The  legs  and  feet,  excepting  the  pads,  are  covered  with  fur.  The 
claws  are  retractable  at  will  by  the  animal.  The  body  is  long, 
slender,  and  with  its  slender  neck  has  a  general  vermiform  ap- 
pearance, and  measures  from  nose  to  root  of  tail  12  to  26  inches 
in  length,  to  which  a  tail  of  6  to  9  inches  is  to  be  added.  The 
above  variation  in  size  is  further  explained  elsewhere.  The 
male  always  exceeds  the  female  by  ^  to  1-3  its  size. 

Its  pelage  varies  extensively  in  color,  length,  quality,  and 
density,  according  to  the  section  the  animal  inhabits,  but  the 
fundamental  color  is  browji.  The  further  south  one  goes,  the 
coat  of  the  animal  becomes  paler,  while  just  the  opposite  is  true 


24  Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


in  the  northern  latitudes.  The  tail  is  always  a  few  shades  darker 
than  tlie  fur  on  the  body  and  invariably  is  this  also  true  of  the 
animars  back  as  compared  with  the  fur  on  its  belly.  A  white 
spot  is  common  on  the  animal's  breast,  other  times  this  spot 
appears  only  on  the  lower  lip.  Once  in  a  while  a  mink  will  have 
a  few  white  hairs  on  the  extreme  tip  of  its  tail,  otherwise  the 
color  of  its  pelage  is  fairly  uniform. 

The  outer  garment  consists  of  two  distinct  sets  of  fibers,  the 
inner  or  undergrowth  of  fur  fibers  proper,  and  the  outer  or  guard 
hairs.  The  former  are  soft,  silky,  downy,  adhering  very  closely 
together,  and  in  color  are  usually  lighter  than  the  predominating 
guard  hairs.  While  the  former  are  }i  to  ^  inch  long,  the  latter 
always  protrude  j4  to  ^  of  an  inch  above  the  undergrowth, 
consequently  %  to  inches  long.  The  guard  hairs  are  coarse, 
smooth,  glossy,  rather  pointed  and  well  distributed  all  over  the 
body,  becoming  shorter  about  the  head  and  feet  and  longer  at 
the  tail ;  on  the  latter  the  hairs  are  inclined  to  stand  out  horizon- 
tally, giving  it  a  bushy  appearance. 
Southern  These  are  found  in  all  parts  of  the  southern  states. 
^•^^  The  animal  attains  a  size  of  i6  to  i8  inches  with  a 
tail  6  to  8  inches  in  length.  Its  fur  is  rather  coarse, 
especially  is  this  true  of  the  lower  growth.  The  guard  hairs 
are  also  coarse  and  comparatively  pale  and  void  of  lustre. 

^.      J.         Are  found  in  these  states  alonsf  rivers,  creeks 
Southwestern  ,  -  ,  .        i      .  .i  ^  .      .   ^  . 

l^.^l^  and  lakes.    Are  about  the  same  m  size  as  the 

more  southern  species,  but  are  better  furred, 
more  robust,  and  their  skins  always  command  a  better  price  from 
the  dealer  and  furrier.  The  fur  is  more  dense  and  of  better  color 
and  larger  individual  specimens  are  also  noticeable. 

Northeastern     '^^^  animal  that  inhabits  Maine,  New  Bruns- 
Mink  wick,  parts  of  Quebec  and  that  particular  sec- 

tion, is  comparatively  small.  The  body  is  lo  to 
14  inches,  with  a  tail  5  to  6  inches  long.  The  fur  during  the  latter 
part  of  December  and  January  is  extremely  beautiful.  The  rarest, 
best  and  highest  priced  skins  come  from  that  section,  especially 
when  its  small  size  is  considered.  The  fur  is  soft,  silky,  not  so 
deep  or  long,  but  very  dark,  rather  of  the  wavy  and  changeable 
color  type. 

Prairie  name  indicates,  the  animal  is  found  chiefly  in 

l^.^j^  prairie  sections,  about  streams  or  in  light  growth  of 
timber.  He  becomes  very  large  in  northern  states, 
notably  so  in  Dakota  and  Manitoba.  While  the  ordinary  size  of  the 
prairie  mink,  especially  those  inhabiting  the  open  sections  of 
the  middle  west,  and  west,  is  from  22  to  30  inches,  the  writer 
has  seen  minks  and  their  skins  measuring  32  to  36  inches  from 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Ouide. 


25 


nose  to  root  of  tail,  and  with  the  latter  a  total  of  43  inches  over 
all.  The  animal  and  skin,  while  extraordinarily  long,  were  othei- 
wise  well  proportioned.  The  former  in  a  natural  position  at 
middle  of  body  measured  12  to  12^  inches  in  circumference  and 
3^  to  4  inches  in  diameter,  the  skin  averaging  in  width  from 
shoulder  to  rear  portion,  4^  to  5  inches.  The  pelage  of  this 
species  is  somewhat  coarse,  but  of  fair  color  and  very  suitable  for 
coat  collars,  cufifs,  etc.  Under  no  circumstances  must  the  pelage  of 
the  prairie  mink  be  compared  with  southern  coarse  mink,  as  these 
northern  skins  are  worth  twice  to  three  times  as  much.  The 
female  is  much  smaller  than  the  male,  and  has  a  more  valued 
coat,  being  finer  in  texture  and  darker  in  color. 

p..^^     These  attain  an  average  size,  are  more  aquatic,  live  in 
l^.^j^    and  about  water  more  than  other  species  and  their  food 
consists  chiefly  of  fish.    The  fur  is  more  evenly  distrib- 
uted, the  outer  guard  hairs  protrude  less  over  the  fur  fibres  or 
lower  growth,  as  is  the  case  with  the  other  species.  In  general  the 
fur  is  more  sleek,  top  hairs  shorter  and  all  are  of  more  uniform 
color,  in  this  respect  resembling  a  lot  of  dark,  brown,  glazed  cofifee 
beans.    The  odor  of  the  animal  is  constantly  that  of  fish  and 
seemingly  this  odor  remains  in  the  skin  for  a  long  time. 
Cotton  claimed  that  the  white  underground  species  is 

Mink,  rather  more  of  a  freak  of  nature  than  a  distinct  species, 
and  that  this  growth  is  quite  unnatural,  sometimes 
caused  by  sickness,  other  times  by  confinement.  Some  naturalists 
seem  to  think  that  this  peculiar  color  crops  out  at  intervals,  and 
for  explanation  go  back  generations  when  it  was  claimed  that 
there  were  no  mink,  but  ermine,  and  that  in  the  ages  of  evolution 
as  explained  by  Darwin,  such  are  the  reminders  of  the  changes 
that  were  brought  about  in  the  natural  course  of  evolution.  Such 
minks  are  found  sparingly  in  the  central,  western  and  middle 
states.  Apparently  the  theory  that  this  species  is  more  of  a  freak, 
must  give  room  for  additional  thought,  as  hundreds  and  thous- 
ands of  skins  are  annually  marketed  showing  these  particular 
characteristics.  The  general  construction  of  its  body,  size,  habits, 
etc.,  resembles  the  other  minks.  It  does  not  breed  separately, 
but  in  connection  with  the  regular  species,  thus  indicating  har- 
mony amongst  them.  The  outer  garment  is  practically  the  same 
as  on  other  species,  and  the  only  difference  noticeable  is  that 
instead  of  having  brown  or  dark  colored  fur  fibres,  its  under- 
growth of  fur  resembles  cotton,  being  clear  white.  Occasionally 
this  white  cotton  like  growth  is  noticeable  only  on  sections  of  the 
skin,  particularly  on  the  top  of  the  animal  extending  4  to  6  inches 
from  the  root  of  its  tail,  other  parts  having  the  normal  color. 
On  account  of  the  animal  resembling  the  other  very  closely, 


26 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


hundreds  of  trappers  are  annually  disappointed,  being  obliged 
to  accept  a  lesser  price  for  such  skins ;  many  unexperienced  buy- 
ers purchase  these  skins  without  knowing  the  difference  until 
they  come  to  sell  them.  The  easiest  way  to  detect  these  cotton 
or  white  underground  mink,  is  by  blowing  into  the  fur  at  various 
places,  especially  just  beyond  the  tail.  Such  skins  cannot  be  used 
advantageously  in  their  natural  condition  and  are  either  dyed 
or  blended. 

Habits  mink  is  very  active,  light  of  foot,  carnivorous, 

and  its  essential  aquatic  nature  leads  it  to  seek  in 
general  well-watered  sections ;  will  scarcely  ever  be  found  far 
away  from  water  except  it  be  caught  during  the  journey  it  makes 
from  one  stream  or  lake  to  another.  Its  amphibious  mode  of  lire 
is  well  known  to  all  hunters,  trappers  and  those  that  come  in 
contact  with  this  carnivora.  His  movement  on  land  lacks  some- 
thing of  the  extraordinary  agility  displayed  by  the  more  slender 
bodied  weasel.  It  habitually  prowls  about  stone  piles,  frequents 
underground  retreats,  and  is  altogether  a  more  openly  aggressive 
marauder,  not  less  persistent  or  courageous  in  its  attack.  In 
swimming  most  of  its  body  is  submerged  and  in  smooth  water 
its  coming  and  going  is  almost  imperceptible.  Its  ability  to  climb 
trees  is  unquestioned ;  it  scarcely  frequents  them  but  will  take  to 
the  tree  if  it  thinks  its  capture  can  be  averted. 

Its  keen  sense  of  smell  enables  it  to  track  and  trace  other 
animals,  consequently  is  less  concerned  for  a  fresh  supply  of  food 
than  most  other  animals.  Its  principal  food  is  fish,  frogs,  rep- 
tiles, muskrats,  mice,  and  rats ;  birds  and  fowls  of  all  kinds  are 
relished.  Much  to  the  detriment  of  the  farmer,  it  frequents 
the  hen  roost,  but  in  this  respect  it  is  not  as  much  an  unnecessary 
slayer  as  the  weasel  or  ermine,  though  instances  are  recorded 
where  as  many  as  forty  chickens  were  killed  by  a  single  mink 
in  one  night.  Its  ability  to  gain  entrance  through  openings  of 
J}4  to  2  inches  in  diameter,  is  well  noted,  and  in  the  event  that 
the  opening  is  too  small,  it  can  increase  it  in  a  remarkably  short 
time.  The  male  and  the  female  can  at  their  pleasure,  emit  from 
their  respective  glands  a  horrible  smelling  odor.  For  further 
description  of  this  fluid  and  manner  of  discharge,  see  article  under 
Weasel. 

The  rutting  season  usually  begins  in  latter  part  of  February  or 
first  part  of  March.  At  this  time  the  male  wanders  carelessly 
along  the  shore  of  streams  and  lakes,  having  in  mind  only  the 
search  for  the  female.  Apparently  the  male  is  on  foot  day  and 
night  and  during  this  period  is  more  easily  trapped.  The  female 
is  scarcely  seen  at  this  time  being  in  some  abode,  obviously  to 
keep  away  from  the  male  as  much  as  possible. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


27 


During  the  month  of  April,  or  early  part  of  May,  the  mother 
brings  forth  a  litter  of  four  to  six  young,  which  are  carefully 
hidden  in  some  hollow  log,  burrow  or  cave.  The  mother  con- 
tinues with  her  young  until  they  are  about  half-grown,  and 
pays  particular  attention  to  keeping  them  away  from  the  male, 
who,  if  opportunity  presents,  will  kill  its  offspring.  The  animal 
attains  its  maturity  in  one  year,  the  female  arriving  at  age  of 
puberty  at  the  end  of  this  period.  The  young  are  born  blind  and 
remain  so  for  four  or  five  weeks. 

Mink  can  be  tamed  if  taken  young,  especially  before  they  have 
their  sight.  It  is  unwise  to  attempt  to  tame  the  animal  after  the 
age  of  three  to  six  months,  and  especially  if  he  or  she  is  of  a 
vicious  disposition.  If  taken  young,  by  continued  petting  and 
handling,  they  become  like  domesticated  ratters  and  have  all  the 
playfulness  of  young  kittens.  At  a  later  period  they  become  ex- 
tremely mischievous  as  their  keen  scent  leads  them  to  pantries, 
hen  houses,  dovecotes,  and  a  canary  bird  in  a  room  is  very 
annoying  to  them.  The  animal's  extensive  power  with  the  mouth 
can  hardly  be  estimated  unless  one  has  seen  the  animal  in  a  trap, 
cage,  box  or  other  place  of  captivity.  When  wild  minks  are  con- 
fined with  tame  ones,  the  latter  always  prove  stronger  and  come 
ofif  victorious  in  the  contest  that  ensues. 


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Andersch  Bros.'  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  29 


THE  MARTEN. 

( Ger.  Marder,  Lat.  Mttstela  Americana.) 

MONGST  the  fur  bearing  animals  of  the  weasel 
kind,  the  marten  with  its  various  species,  is  most 
}  important,  especially  since  their  skins  command 
high  prices  and  ready  sale.  In  all  zoological 
works  the  martens  oscillate  with  the  sable.  The 
latter,  however,  is  simply  a  large  marten  found 
in  higher  latitudes. 

The  Beach,  or  Stone  marten,  which  inhabits 
Europe,  is  distinguished  from  the  Pine  marten 
by  its  pure  and  large,  white  furred  throat,  also  by 
its  other  external  features  and  size. 
The  Pine  marten  of  Europe  resembles  the  American  marten, 
but  in  that  country  like  in  the  New  World,  marked  contrast  and 
difference  between  "animals  from  one,  to  that  of  another  section, 
occur.    Thus  the  marten  from  Scandinavia  differs  in  size  and 
color,  but  not  in  habits,  from  that  found  in  Germany,  Austria, 
Spain  and  Italy.    The  former  is  large  in  stature,  its  pelage  is 
finer,  darker,  denser,  and  in  general,  longer. 

The  sable,  or  Asiatic  species,  as  the  name  implies,  is  found 
in  Russia  and  northerly  portions  of  islands  belonging  to  Japan  ; 
also  equally  large  and  similar  furred  animals  are  found  in  the 
extreme  portions  of  North  America,  but  these  receive  a  sectional 
name  and  are  commercially  known  as  Hudson  Bay  sable.  The 
fur  of  the  sable  as  compared  with  the  marten,  has  a  mellow  char- 
acter, is  darker,  longer,  finer  in  texture,  the  skin  larger  and  more 
beautiful  and  for  that  reason  commands  a  much  higher  price. 

The  Russian  sable  measures  in  body  20  to  24  inches  from 
nose  to  root  of  tail  and  the  latter  from  body  to  extreme  tip,  10 
to  12  inches.  Some  individual  hairs  on  the  tail  are  3  to  4  inches 
long.  The  latter  are  very  glossy,  dark  brown  or  black  and 
invariably  three  to  four  shades  darker  than  the  fur  on  the  body. 

The  American  marten  in  respect  to  size,  resembles  the  Euro- 
pean Pine  marten.  The  animal  inhabits  the  northerly  Atlantic,  as 
well  as  the  Pacific  states,  is  found  in  mountainous  regions,  prin- 
cipally in  forests,  in  the  latitudes  extending  from  Maine  to  Ore- 
gon, although  its  existence  in  the  middle  states  as  far  south  as 
Pennsylvania  and  Ohio,  Colorado  and  Wyoming,  is,  and  has  been 
established ;  but  of  late  years  most  of  the  skins  have  been  received 
from  Canada  where  the  animal  is  still  plentiful.  Beautiful,  as  well 
as  high-priced  skins  are  received  from  Maine,  Lake  Superior,  re- 
gion around  Lake  of  the  Woods,  Northern  Minnesota,  Michigan, 


30 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


Wisconsin,  and  notably  from  the  St.  Lawrence  River  and  Hudson 
Bay  region,  also  along  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  from  Selkirk 
to  Port  Arthur. 

The  color  of  the  skins  from  Montana,  Washington,  Wyom- 
ing, Oregon,  and  extending  along  the  Pacific  coast,  up  to  Alaska, 
excluding  the  extreme  northern  or  inland  portions,  are  generally 
of  a  canary  or  light  brown,  intermingled  with  steel-like  colored 
hairs.  Similar  colored  skins  are  also  received  from  different 
sections,  which  are  all  dyed  to  imitate  the  darker  kinds,  but  in 
this  state  are  readily  distinguished  by  the  manufacturer  who  fails 
to  pay  the  same  price  he  would  for  the  beautiful  natural  colored 
skins. 

The  color  of  the  American  marten  during  the  winter  months  is 
almost  indescribable,  due  to  the  endless  diversities  occasioned 
by  age,  sex,  season  and  climatic  conditions.  Its  fur  is  long,  ex- 
tremely soft  and  full.  It  can  be  divided  into  three  kind  of  fibres ; 
the  first  is  very  short,  fine,  soft  and  downy ;  the  second  about  the 
same,  but  in  addition  wavy,  ^  to  J4  inch  longer,  and  becomes 
noticeable  from  the  outside ;  the  third  represents  the  long,  beauti- 
ful outer  or  guard  hairs.  These  are  fully  twice  as  long  as  those 
on  the  mink.  The  predominating  color  of  fur  ranges  from  a 
light  canary,  orange,  light  brown,  dark  brown,  dark  and  almost 
black,  excepting  the  fur  on  the  throat,  which  is  rather  yellowish 
or  clear  white.  The  legs  are  short  and  covered  with  black  fur. 
The  tail  seems  bushy  and  that  member  is  very  valuable  in  the 
fur  trade. 

Habits  American  marten,  like  the  sable  has  carnivorous 

and  arboreal  habits ;  its  home  is  in  the  forests,  scarcely 
ever  found  in  open  sections  and  being  of  a  sly  and  suspicous 
nature)  it  is  one  of  the  first  to  disappear,  amongst  the  smaller 
animals,  with  the  advance  of  civilization  entering  its  woody 
resorts.  Mr.  Ross  has  recorded  a  remarkable  fact  of  the  animal's 
periodical  disappearance.  'Tt  occurs  in  decades  or  thereabouts 
with  regularity,  and  it  is  quite  uncommon  what  becomes 
of  them.  They  are  not  found  dead.  The  failure  extends  through- 
out the  Hudson  Bay  section  at  the  same  time,  and  there  is  no 
tract  or  region  to  which  they  migrate  where  we  have  not  posts, 
or  into  which  our  hunters  have  not  penetrated.'' 

Making  its  home  away  from  civilization,  it  is  not  guilty  of 
invading  the  farmyard,  but  otherwise  is  very  active,  industrious, 
cunning  and  predaceous,  and  finds  its  subsistance  in  the  weaker 
rodents,  mice,  moles,  insects,  squirrels,  frogs,  birds  and  fish.  If 
forced  by  burger  v^ill  eat  nuts  and  berries. 

Its  odor  is  mild  as  compared  with  the  musk  of  the  mink  or 
ermine.    It  rarely  kills  after  its  hunger  is  appeased,  nor  does 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


31 


a  blind  ferocity  lead  *t  to  attack  animals  larger  than  itself. 

The  mother  brings  forth  a  litter  of  three,  seldom  exceeding 
six,  young,  which  she  nourishes  for  some  time,  and  Steller  says 
that  the  mother  will  readily  protect  them  from  the  male  by  carry- 
ing them  out  of  danger  in  her  mouth  cat-fashion,  usually  to 
some  crevice  or  hole  in  the  bank  of  a  hill,  the  opening  of  which 
she  closes  with  her  body  and  presents  the  intruder  with  a  fero- 
cious look. 

THE  FISHER. 

(Pennants,  Marten,  Pekan,  Lat.  Miistela  Pennants.) 

FISHER  is  strictly  a  North  American  animal, 
and  naturalists  claim  that  he  forms  the  connect- 
ing link  between  the  Mustela  and  Gula.  He  is 
rated  as  belonging  to  the  weasel  family,  of  which, 
with  the  exception  of  the  wolverene,  he  is  the 
largest  and  strongest  of  the  entire  species.  The 
scarcity  of  the  animal  can  be  noted  by  reviewing 
the  table  found  elsewhere  in  this  volume.  They 
are  chiefly  found  in  Canadian  timber  sections,  are 
very  scarce  in  the  heavily  timbered  sections  of  the  northern  states. 
A  few  skins  are  annually  received  from  the  timbered  sections 
of  Washington,  Oregon,  Montana,  Minnesota,  Wisconsin  and. 
Michigan,  but  as  above  noted,  the  animal  is  chiefly  found  in 
Canada.    It  weighs  from  12  to  16  pounds. 

In  his  habits  he  resembles  the  marten,  being  arboreal,  car- 
nivorous, and  occasionally  seen  in  the  early  morning  or  later  in 
the  afternoon,  preying  after  small  animals,  but  as  a  rule  the  fisher 
possesses  nocturnal  habits.  He  is  known  to  rob  traps  of  their 
victims,  and  is  occasionally  nipped  himself.  They  are  scarcely 
ever  seen  in  open  sections,  but  like  the  marten  live  in  forests  and 
away  from  civilization. 

The  specimens  before  us  now  indicate  that  the  animal  meas- 
ures 24  to  30  inches  from  tip  of  nose  to  root  of  tail,  the  latter 
measuring  14  to  19  inches,  the  tail  in  the  largest  specimen 
measuring  i6j4  inches,  in  the  smallest  13^  inches.  Its  black 
furred  legs  are  stout  and  on  the  largest  specimen  4  to  5  inches 
long. 

In  color  the  pelage  varies  unusually  much,  and  each  individual 
skin  viewed,  indicates  a  variation  from  light  steel  grey  on  the  < 
head  and  fore  part  of  the  body,  terminating  and  blending  into 
a  rich  brown,  nicely  topped  with  long  black  guard  hairs.  The 


32  Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 

long  slender  tail  is  considerably  darker  furred.  The  undergrowth 
or  fur  fibres  are  shorter  by  }i  to  }i  of  an  inch,  as  compared  with 
the  top  guard  hairs,  which  are  much  coarser  but  gradually  become 
more  pointed  at  the  tip.  The  nature  of  the  fur  is  mellow  and 
soft,  and  furriers  say  that  it  works  up  handsomely. 


Late  Fall  Scene  THE  FISHER  From  Origfinal  Painting. 

Eastern  Canada  Property  of 

Andersch  Bros. 


The  following  account  from  B.  R.  Ross,  covering  his  exper- 
ience in  the  Mackenzie  River  region  (Canada),  is  interesting: 
'Tn  this  district  it  (the  fisher)  is  not  found  except  in  the 
vicinity  of  Fort  Resolution,  which  may  be  considered  as  its 
northern  limit.   In  the  numerous  deltas  of  the  mouth  of  the  Slave 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


33 


River  it  is  abundant,  frequenting  the  large  grassy  marshes  or 
prairies,  for  the  purpose  of  catching  mice,  its  principal  food.  In 
appearance  it  bccirs  a  strong  family  likeness  to  both  the  marten 
and  the  wolverene.  Its  general  shape  assimilates  more  to  the 
former,  but  the  head  and  ears  have  a  greater  similitude  to  those 
of  the  latter.  It  is  named  by  the  Chippewayan  Indians  'Tha  cho' 
or  great  marten.  Its  legs  and  feet  are  stouter  in  proportion  than 
those  of  the  marten,  and  its  claws  much  stronger.  In  color  and 
size  it  varies  greatly.  Young,  full-furred  specimens,  or  those 
born  the  previous  spring,  can  scarcely  be  distinguished  from  a 
large  marten  except  by  a  darker  pelage  and  a  less  full,  more 
pointed  tail.  As  it  advances  toward  old  age,  the  color  of  the 
fur  grows  lighter,  the  long  hairs  become  coarser,  and  the  grayish 
markings  are  of  greater  extent  and  more  conspicuous. 

"The  largest  fisher  which  I  have  seen  was  killed  by  myself  on 
the  Rivier  de  Argent,  one  of  the  channels  of  the  mouth  of 
the  Slave  River,  about  15  miles  from  Fort  Resolution.  It  was 
fully  as  long  as  a  Fulvus  fox,  jnuch  more  muscular,  and  weighed 
18  pounds.  In  the  color  of  its  fur  the  greyish  tints  predominated, 
extending  from  half  way  down  the  back  to  the  nose.  The  fur 
was  comparatively  coarse;  though  thick  and  full.  The  tail  was 
long  and  pointed,  and  the  whole  shade  of  the  pelage  was  very 
light  and  had  rather  a  faded  look.  Its  claws  were  very  strong 
and  of  brown  color;  and  as  if  to  mark  its  extreme  old  age  the 
teeth  were  a  good  deal  worn  and  very  much  decayed.  I  caught 
it  with  difficulty.  For  about  two  weeks  it  had  been  infesting  my 
marten  road,  tearing  down  the  traps  and  devouring  the  bait.  So 
I  resolved  to  destroy  it.  I  made  a  strong  wooden  trap.  It  climbed 
up  this,  entered  from  above,  and  ate  the  meat.  A  gun  was  next 
set  with  no  better  success,  it  cut  the  line  and  run  off  with  the 
bone  that  was  tied  to  the  end  of  it.  As  a  'dernier  resort'  I  put 
a  steel  trap  in  the  middle  of  the  road,  covered  it  carefully,  and 
set  a  bait  at  some  distance  on  each  side.  Into  this  it  tumbled. 
From  the  size  of  its  footprints  my  impression  all  along  was  that 
it  was  a  small  wolverine  that  was  annoying  me,  and  I  was  sur- 
prised to  find  it  to  be  a  fisher.  It  showed  good  fight,  hissed 
at  me  much  like  !an  enraged  cat,  biting  at  the  iron  trap,  and 
snapping  at  my  legs.  A  blow  on  the  nose  turned  it  over,  when 
I  completed  its  death  by  compressing  the  heart  with  my  foot 
until  it  ceased  to  beat.  The  skin  when  stretched  for  drying  was 
fully  as  large  as  a  middle-sized  otter,  and  very  strong,  in  this 
respect  resembling  that  of  wolverene. 

"In  their  habits  the  fishers  resemble  the  martens.  Their  food  is 
much  the  same,  but  Ihey  do  not  seem  to  keep  so  generally  in 
the  woods.  They  are  not  so  nocturnal  in  their  wanderings  as  the 


34 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


foxes.  An  old  fisher  is  nearly  as  great  an  infliction  to  a  marten 
trapper  as  a  wolverene.  It  is  an  exceedingly  powerful  animal  for 
its  size,  and  will  tear  down  the  wooden  traps  with  ease.  Its 
regularity  in  visiting  them  is  exemplary.  In  one  quality  however 
it  is  superior  to  the  wolverene,  which  is  that  it  leaves  the  sticks 
of  the  traps  where  they  were  planted ;  while  the  other  beast  if 
it  can  discover  nothing  better  to  hide,  will  cache  them  some 
distance  oflf.  It  prefers  meat  to  fish,  is  not  very  cunning,  and  is 
caught  without  difficulty  in  the  steel  trap.'' 

Habits  habits,  as  will  be  noticed,  are  arboreal,  carnivorous 
and  nocturnal.  It  is  liberally  claimed  that  the  animal, 
as  its  name  implies,  is  an  expert  fisher,  but  this  is  again  forcibly 
contradicted.  One  trapper  claims  that  the  fisher  will  crouch  down 
with  head  slightly  in  the  water  and  lie  in  wait  for  the  swift 
pickerel  or  trout  three  to  five  hours  at  a  time,  seemingly  without 
moving  a  muscle.  Its  favorite  position  as  claimed  by  this  trapper, 
is  on  a  fallen  log  across  a  brook  or  stream  on  a  bank  where  the 
water  is  shaded  by  willows.  Nevertheless  all  agree  that  one  of 
his  principal  articles  of  diet  is  fish,  notably  the  speckled  Mountain 
trout. 

The  breeding  season  is  in  the  early  spring,  and  the  female 
brings  forth  a  litter  of  3  to  5  young,  which  are  kept  away  from 
the  male  until  they  are  able  to  defend  themselves  and  live  upon 
their  own  resources.  Strange  to  say  the  father  will  kill  his  off- 
spring and  for  that  reason  the  mother  takes  the  young  to  some 
isolated  place  and  protects  them  against  all  foes,  and  readily  risk? 
her  life  to  protect  the  yoimg  from  all  intruders. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  35 


THE  WOLVERENE. 

(Ger,  Vielfrass,  Fr.  Glouton,  Eng.  Glutton,  Lat.  Gnlo  lusciis.) 

HIS  carnivorous  animal,  the  clumsiest  of  the 
marten  or  weasel  species,  is  known  under  various 
names,  and  its  nomenclature  may  be  interesting 
as  well  as  amusing  to  the  average  hunter  and 
trapper  :  Latin — Gulo  antiquorum,  Murtela 
rufo-fusca.  Medio  dorsi  nigro,  Murtela  gulo, 
Ursus  gulo,  Meles  gulo,  Taxus  gulo,  Gulo  si- 
bircus,  Gulo  arcticus,  Gulo  volgaris,  Gulo  Cu- 
curis ;  Russian — Rossamaka,  Rossamack,  Roso- 
mak ;  German — Vielfrass,  Vielfras  ;  Dutch — 
Veelvraat;  French — Goulon,  Glouton;  English — 
Glutton  ;  Norwegian — Jerf ,  Jerv,  Filfras  ;  Swedish — Jarf ,  Jerf , 
Filfrass;  Laplander — Gieddk;  American  and  Canadian — Wolver- 
ene, Carcajou ;  Indian — Okeeroohawgew,  Okeecockwgees,  Ouee- 
quehatch. 

It  inhabits  the  whole  of  British  possessions  in  North  America, 
is  sparingly  found  in  ihe  United  States,  but  has  been  known  and 
still  exists  in  some  of  the  Northern  States  from  the  Atlantic  to  the 
Pacific  Coast,  especially  in  the  regions  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
Has  formerly  been  seen  and  was  captured  in  Maine,  Masschu- 
setts,  very  recently  in  Michigan,  Wisconsin  and  Minnesota,  and 
in  the  Rocky  Mountain  regions  of  Wyoming  and  Montana;  and 
specimens  are  still  in  existence  showing  that  it  inhabited  to  a 
greater  or  less  extent  the  states  of  Utah  and  Colorado.  Very  few 
skins  are  now  received  from  the  northern  states  and  the  supply 
principally  comes  from  Canada.  The  European  species,  which  is 
still  in  existence,  resembles  that  of  the  American  to  a  great  ex- 
tent. 

The  wolverene  is  a  night  prowler  and  makes  his  home  in  bur- 
rows, hollow  logs  and  crevices  of  rocks ;  often  he  partakes  of  sleep 
in  dens  of  foxes  as  well  as  former  dens  of  wolves,  and,  in  fact, 
seeks  rest  and  sleep  wherever  it  may  be  found. 

Its  principal  food  is  mice,  rabbits,  mink,  marten  and  similar 
animals.  It  follows  the  wolf  and  the  fox  in  the  hope  of  obtain- 
ing a  portion  of  their  prey.  Is  known  to  climb  low-limbed  trees 
from  which  it  pounces  upon  its  prey,  and  succeeds  in  a  remark- 
ably short  time  in  subduing  its  victims.  It  then  proceeds  to  de- 
vour the  body,  and  what  it  cannot  consume  is  carried  away  and 
hidden  below  the  surface  of  the  ground  or  snow.  It  is  particularly 


36 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


known  to  follow  lines  of  traps  for  many  miles,  partaking  of  the 
bait  and  victim,  and  even  if  unable  to  devour  the  food  so  found, 
it  will  delight  to  break  into  the  traps  or  spring  them  as  the  case 
may  be. 

The  wolverene  is  very  seldom  captured ;  is  known  to  enter  the 


Eastern  Canada  THE  WOLVERENE  From  Original  Painting* 

Full  Furred.  Property  of  Andersch  Bros. 

huts  of  the  Laplander  and  to  carry  away  frying  pans,  ammunition 
and  similar  articles,  which  it  buries,  and  in  consequence  thereof 
is  a  dreaded  animal,  being  detested  by  the  hunter  and  trapper  as 
well  as  the  inhabitants  of  the  extreme  north.  Is  known  to  prey 
upon  beaver  and  otter.    Historians  greatly  exaggerate  the  con- 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


37 


sumption  of  food  as  well  as  the  tricks  and  mischief  which  are 
laid  at  its  door. 

The  following  story  from  Mr.  Lockhart  may  be  very  interest- 
ing:— "The  winter  I  passed  at  Fort  Simpson/'  writes  Mr.  Lock- 
hart,  'T  had  a  line  of  marten  and  fox  traps,  and  lynx  snares,  ex- 
tending as  far  as  Lac  de  Brochet.  Visiting  them  on  one  occa- 
sion I  found  a  lynx  alive  in  one  of  my  snares ;  and  being  indis- 
posed to  carry  it  so  far  home,  determined  to  kill  and  skin  it  be- 
fore it  should  freeze.  But  how  to  cache  the  skin  until  my  re- 
turn? This,  was  a  serious  question,  for  carcajou  were  numer- 
ous. Placing  the  carcass  as  a  decoy  in  a  clump  of  willows  at  one 
side  of  the  path,  I  went  some  distance  on  the  opposite,  dug  a  hole 
with  my  snow  shoe  about  three  feet  deep  in  the  snow,  packing  the 
snow  hard  down  after  packing  the  skin  in  the  smallest  compass 
and  putting  it  in  the  bottom  of  the  hole  which  I  filled  up  again 
very  carefully,  and  then  strewing  loose  snow  over  the  surface  till 
the  spot  looked  as  if  it  had  never  been  disturbed.  I  also  strewed 
blood  and  entrails  in  the  path  and  around  the  willows.  Return- 
ing next  morning  I  found  that  the  carcass  was  gone,  as  I  ex- 
pected, but  that  the  place  where  the  skin  was  cached  was  appar- 
ently undisturbed.  'Ah,  you  rascal,'  said  I,  addressing  aloud  the 
absent  carcajou,  T  have  outwitted  you  for  once.'  I  lighted  my 
pipe  and  proceeded  leisurely  to  dig  up  the  skin  to  place  in  my 
muskimoot.  I  went  clear  down  to  the  ground,  on  this  side  and  on 
that,  but  no  lynx  skin  was  there.  The  carcajou  had  been  before 
me,  and  had  carried  it  ofif  along  with  the  carcass ;  but  he  had  taken 
the  pains  to  fill  up  the  hole  again  and  make  everything  as  smooth 
as  before." 

Mr.  Lockhart  also  relates  that  the  wolverene  habitually  sits  on 
his  haunches  and  shades  his  eyes  with  one  of  his  fore  paws,  just 
as  a  human  being  would  do  in  scrutinizing  a  dim  or  distant  ob- 
ject. On  one  occasion  he  was  drifting  down  stream  in  a  canoe, 
and  came  within  a  short  distance  of  one  of  the  animals  on  the 
bank;  it  stopped  on  perceiving  him,  squatted  on  its  haunches, 
and  peered  earnestly  at  the  advancing  boat,  holding  one  fore  paw 
over  its  eyes  in  the  manner  above  described.  Not  seeming  to  take 
alarm,  it  proceeded  on  a  few  paces,  and  then  stopped  to  repeat 
the  performance,  when  Mr.  Lockhart,  now  sufficiently  near,  fired 
and  killed  the  beast. 

At  times  the  wolverene  displays  more  boldness  than  this  in  the 
presence  of  man.  It  has  been  known  to  seize  upon  the  carcass  of 
a  deer,  and  suffer  itself  to  be  shot  rather  than  relinquish  posses- 
sion, though  the  hunter  had  approached  within  twenty  yards 
of  his  game.    When  pressed  by  the  pangs  of  hunger,  still  bolder 


38  Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 

exploits  are  sometimes  performed,  as  in  the  instance  narrated  by 
Capt.  J.  C.  Ross.  In  the  dead  of  an  Arctic  winter,  his  ship's  com- 
pany were  surprised  by  a  visit  from  a  wolverene,  which  clam- 
bered over  the  snow  wall  surrounding  the  vessel,  and  came  boldly 
on  deck  among  the  men.  Forgetful  of  its  safety  in  the  extrem- 
ity of  its  need  for  food,  the  animal  seized  a  canister  of  meat, 
and  suffered  himself  to  be  noosed  while  eating. 

The  animal  is  of  great  strength,  but  lacks  activity  of  body, 
being  heavily  and  clumsily  supported  on  thick-set,  rather  low  legs 
and  rests  upon  large  feet.  The  animal  resembles  that  of  a  small 
bear.  The  palms  and  soles  are  generally  furred,  but  the  digits 
are  naked.  The  back  is  high  and  arched,  the  figure  in  general, 
drooping  both  before  and  behind,  the  head  and  tail  being  carried 
low  while  in  locomotion,  similar  to  a  bear.  The  head  is  broad 
and  rounded  on  every  side,  with  a  rather  short,  stubby  nose,  low 
ears,  and  eyes  sunk  rather  deeply  into  the  skull. 

On  the  body  the  fur  is  of  a  blackish,  deep  dusky  brown  color. 
The  length  of  the  fibers  beginning  at  the  extremities  where  they 
are  very  short,  gradually  increase  to  to  4  inches  on  the  sides 
and  hips,  thus  giving  the  well-known  shaggy  appearance  of  the 
animal.  There  is  a  light  grey  patch  between  the  ears  and  eyes 
which  is  extended  from  the  shoulders  on  both  sides  and  forms 
the  ruflf  or  shaggy  aspect  heretofore  noted.  The  two  broad 
bands  on  the  animal's  sides  are  occasioned  by  the  variation  in 
color,  being  of  a  chestnut  or  yellowish  brown,  or  even  fading 
to  a  dingy  brownish  white,  starting  at  the  shoulders  and  run- 
ning along  the  sides  and  turning  up,  meeting  its  fellow  on  the 
rump  near  the  base  of  the  tail  and  forming  a  rather  indistinct 
lyre-like  connection.  The  claws  are  sharp,  strong,  much  curved, 
and  about  an  inch  long.  The  tail  resembles  more  that  of  the 
badger,  excepting  that  it  is  twice  as  long ;  the  hairs  on  this  member 
are  from  five  to  seven  inches  long,  rather  coarse,  and  the  entire 
member  is  of  a  brushy  instead  of  a  plume-like  appearance. 

The  fur  is  used  for  various  purposes  and  owing  to  its  scar- 
city brings  fairly  high  prices,  but  the  principal  use  is  for  robe  or 
mat  purposes.  The  total  number  of  skins  annually  collected  and 
marketed  rarely  exceed  3,000,  one-half  of  which  are  marketed 
by  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  at  London.  The  price  varies  con- 
siderably as  the  darker  skins  bring  much  better  prices,  generally 
from  $3.00  to  $10.00. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


39 


THE  SKUNK. 

ARLY  historians,  naturalists  and  travelers, 
pointed  to  the  American  skunk  as  the  most 
detested  animal  on  the  face  of  the  globe,  and 
many  are  even  to  this  day  so  deeply  impressed 
with  the  distant  horrible  experiences  that  he 
or  she  will  refuse  to  wear  a  manufactured 
garment  made  out  of  skunk  skins,  and  the  manufacturer  is  obliged 
to  call  the  skins  from  which  the  garment  is  made  ''Black  Mar- 
ten." Thirty  and  forty  years  ago  the  animal  was  detested  by 
the  hunter,  trapper  and  farmer,  and  it  is  surprising  to 
note  the  change  in  conditions,  due  largely  to  the  enlighten- 
ment of  the  rural  population  as  to  the  benefits  of  the  skunk,  also 
to  the  rapid  increase  and  value  of  their  pelts.  Many  skunk  farms 
are  in  existence,  the  owners  making  a  business  of  raising  these 
animals  for  their  pelts.  While  this  may  be  a  queer  business, 
nevertheless  it  is  perfectly  legitimate,  and  as  far  as  known,  profit- 
able. A  ready  sale  of  the  pelt  is  to  be  had,  and  the  skins  from 
these  domesticated  animals  generally  bring  higher  average  prices, 
being  well  handled  and  killed  at  a  time  when  the  fur  is  at  its  best. 

The  skunk  is  by  no  means  confined  to  North  America,  as  the 
animal  is  also  found  in  southeastern  Europe,  South  America  and 
in  Africa.  In  these  countries  he  is  known  under  Stinktiere,  Su- 
rilho.  Cape  Zorillo,  in  fact  his  nomenclature  covers  a  wide  range 
and  is  still  greater  confused  by  naturalists  disagreeing  on  certain 
species.  Mr.  Gabriel  Sagard-Theodat,  the  prominent  French 
writer,  in  his  history  of  Canada,  (1636),  designates  the  animal 
"enfan  du  diable''  which  apparently  was  the  recognized  Canadian 
French  name  for  this  animal;  others  mention  the  ''devirs  own 
beast.''  The  Cree  Indian  knew  the  animal  under  Seecawk.  Some- 
times he  is  erroneously  called  polecat,  fitch  and  chinche.  He 
belongs  to  the  weasel  or  marten  family. 

The  skunk  is  found  in  nearly  all  the  states  and  territories  of 
the  Union  and  climatic  and  geographical  conditions  are  respon- 
sible for  the  great  variation  in  size  and  color  of  its  pelage.  There 
are  very  few  fur-bearing  animals  as  plentiful,  and  especially  so  in 
the  civilized  sections,  that  bring  such  a  handsome  income  to  the 
trapper  as  does  the  skunk.  As  noted,  the  chief  difference  in  char- 
acter, besides  the  size  of  the  animal  itself,  lies  in  the  color  of  its 
fur,  and  the  animal  from  the  outward  appearance  is  closely  de- 
scribed in  the  following  pages. 

The  body  is  16  to  22  inches  long,  its  tail  from  root  to  farthest 


Mounted 
Male 


THE  SKUNK 


Iowa 
Matured 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


41 


point  of  fur,  12  to  16  inches,  the  latter  being  covered  with  hair, 
the  color  of  which  varies,  depending  upon  the  color  of  the  fur  on 
the  body.  For  instance,  the  fur  on  the  tail  of  a  black  or  shori 
striped  skunk  is  black  or  nearly  all  black,  while  that  of  the  broad 
or  narrow  striped  skunk  is  interspersed  with  black  and  white 
hairs.  While  the  skin  of  the  animal  is  very  valuable,  the  tail  is 
rarely  used,  though  manufacturers  of  late  years  have  consumed 
the  hair  in  the  manufacture  of  brushes  and  similar  purposes. 
The  legs  are  short  and  close  to  the  body,  the  paw  is  naked,  and  the 
five  toes  on  each  foot  are  closely  grown  together  like  that  of  the 
badger.  The  foot  is  well  adapted  to  digging.  The  toes  are  not 
webbed;  the  head  is  small,  with  short,  rounded  ears  and  rather 
long,  projecting  nose,  with  two  small  piercing  eyes.  Audubon 
describes  the  animal  in  the  following  words :  'The  skunk,  al- 
though armed  with  claws  and  teeth  strong  enough  to  capture  his 
prey,  is  slow  on  foot,  apparently  timid,  and  would  be  unable  to 
escape  from  many  of  his  enemies  if  he  were  not  possessed  of  a 
power  by  which  he  often  causes  the  most  ferocious  to  make  a  ra- 
pid retreat,  run  the  nose  into  the  earth,  or  roll  and  tumble  on  the 
ground  as  if  in  convulsions ;  and  not  infrequently  even  the  bravest 
of  our  boasting  race  is  by  this  little  animal  compelled  suddenly 
to  break  off  his  train  of  thought,  hold  his  nose  and  run  as  if  a 
lion  were  at  his  heels." 

The  skunk  in  general  appearance  is  always  neat  and  clean, 
and  in  walking  seemingly  takes  special  pride,  as  when  promenad- 
ing, its  tail  is  erect  and  its  back  peculiarly  curved.  Very  few 
animals  are  as  harmless  as  this  creature  and  were  it  not  for  the 
peculiar  odor  which  it  distributes  when  in  danger,  it  would  be 
more  hunted  and  probably  eradicated  in  sections.  Its  princi- 
pal weapon,  as  heretofore  noted,  is  a  peculiar  secretion  and  fluid 
possessing  a  very  disagreeable  odor.  This  fluid  is  of  a  pak 
yellow  color  and  is  discharged  by  the  animal  when  in  danger,  in 
thin-like  streams  and  with  such  accuracy  and  aim  as  to  strike  any 
object  within  6  tO'  12  feet.  The  fluid  is  secreted  in  two  anul 
glands  from  which  by  the  contraction  of  the  sub-caudal  muscles 
and  by  uplifting  of  the  tail  it  is  discharged  in  the  form  as  above 
stated.  Trappers  who  are  familiar  with  this  secretion  state  that 
the  discharge  of  this  perfume  looks  like  a  puff  of  steam  or  white 
smoke.  Dogs  and  other  animals  are  adverse  to  attacking  a  skunk 
and  only  inexperienced  or  so-called  ''tenderfeet''  will  view  this 
animal  from  the  rear  unless  at  a  great  distance. 

The  animal  is  carnivorous,  nocturnal,  not  entirely  terrestrial, 
as  occasionally  he  is  known  to  climb  trees,  perhaps  not  of  choice 
but  rather  compulsion,  being  forced  to  this  fancied  secure  posi- 


42 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


tion'  by  the  hunter  or  his  dog.  Consequently  his  arboreal,  like 
his  amphibious  habits,  are  rather  undeserved  credentials.  The  the- 
ory that  the  animal  climbs  trees  in  search  of  food  and  birds,  is 
discredited.  The  animal  is  beneficial  in  many  ways  to  the  farm- 
er, and  his  eradication  from  any  farming  community  should  be 
prevented,  and  laws  prohibiting  the  wanton  destruction  encour- 
aged. 

The  contrast  in  size  of  the  animal  and  the  important  varia- 
tion in  the  color  of  its  pelage,  due  to  climatic  and  geographical 
differences,  cannot  be  denied.  The  breeding  and  inter-breeding 
of  the  different  colored  furred  species  is  the  principal  explana- 
tion why  the  young  of  a  litter  are  so  much  unlike  in  color.  A 
Michigan  trapper  recently  sent  my  firm  eleven  skunk  skins,  two 
larger  than  the  others,  presumably  one  from  the  male  or  father, 
the  other  from  the  female  or  mother ;  the  balance  were  from  the 
offspring  and  were  all  much  smaller.  All  were  dug  out  from 
under  an  old  granary.    The  skins  graded  as  follows : 

1  Large  Narrow  Striped  Skunk  Skin  "Father/' 
1  Medium  Short  ''Mother." 

3  Small  Short  "  "  *'  "Cubs." 

4  Small  Narrow        "  "  **  " 
1  Sman  Broad 

1  Small  White 

The  largest  of  the  skunk  species  are  probably  found  in 
Manitoba,  where  a  few  years  ago  four  animals  were  killed  and 
weighed  by  me;  the  average  weight  of  the  male  was  15  pounds 
and  that  of  the  female  11^  pounds.  All  of  the  animals  had 
two  long  white  furred,  rather  narrow  stripes  extending  from 
neck,  over  body,  terminating  at  the  tail.  The  average  weight  of 
the  northwestern  male  skunk  is  from  6  to  10  pounds,  that  of  the 
eastern  or  southwestern  animal  4  to  6  pounds. 

The  predominating  color  of  the  fur  of  all  /species  is  black 
and  white  with  the  exception  of  the  Texas  skunk,  which  due  to  a 
peculiar  soil,  is  of  reddish  cast.  Some  of  the  animals  have  a  clear 
coat  of  fur,  others  are  all  black  excepting  a  small  white  star,  but 
the  majority  have  two  stripes,  some  terminating  at  the  center  of 
body,  on  others  the  stripe  continuing  from  the  forehead  over  the 
body,  terminating  at  the  tail.  The  stripes  on  many  are  so  wide 
that  very  little  black  fur  is  left,  and  quite  a  number  of  skins  are 
annually  received  that  have  practically  no  black  fur  at  all.  The 
white  fur  is  usually  of  clear  color,  but  occasionally  skins  are 
received  that  have  a  yellowish  cast. 

Habits     This  carnivorous  and  nocturnal  animal  is  unlike  most 
every  other  animal  possessing  these  habits.  He  can  be 
seen  in  the  early  morning  returning  to  his  haunts,  and  once  in 


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43 


a  while  in  the  middle  of  the  day ;  at  no  time  is  he  in  a  hurry,  or 
will  he  discommode  himself  by  getting  out  of  your  sight  or  es- 
pecially away  from  your  path  and  it  is  not  to  be  wondered  at 
that  the  farmer,  as  well  as  the  hunter,  will  give  the  animal  tht 
right  of  way.  His  mode  of  locomotion  is  slow,  and  rarely  will 
he  be  found  away  from  his  haunt  a  greater  distance  than  one  or 
two  miles.  His  abode  is  usually  in  a  hollow  log,  under  some 
old  barn  or  granary,  or  in  a  hole  on  the  sunny  side  of  some  hill. 
He  enjoys  a  sun  bath,  probably  more  than  does  the  bear  or  the 
badger.  His  meal  is  made  up  by  free  consun,;  "ion  of  worms, 
bugs,  grasshoppers,  mice,  birds  and  eggs.  In  some  sections  he 
is  known  to  be  quite  a  vegetarian,  consuming  as  he  does,  roots, 
berries,  vegetables,  and  fruits.  Occasionally  frequents  the  hen- 
roost, not  only  for  eggs,  but  for  the  hen  as  well. 

In  enemies  he  has  to  contend  with  the  hunter  and  trapper, 
the  fox  and  the  wolf;  but  the  latter  two  must  be  in  an  extreme 
state  of  hunger  before  they  will  disregard  the  pungent 
fluid  and  devour  his  body.  Dogs  are  rather  skeptical  in  attack- 
ing the  skunk  unless  it  is  their  first  experience.  In  this  respect 
they  are  no  different  than  the  hunter. 

The  animal  passes  the  winter  season  in  a  state  of  incomplete 
-  hibernation,  and  at  regular  intervals  he  will  arise,  come  out  of 
his  abode  and  expose  his  body  to  the  sun,  and  judging  from  the 
effluvium,  empty  its  distended  pouches,  but  the  stench  thus 
caused,  soon  ceases,  which  is  not  the  case  when  it  is  spurted  under 
irritation  or  in  self-defense.  Dr.  Coues  states  ''that  the  animal 
uses  this  secretion  in  the  relation  of  its  perpetuation  of  the  species, 
though  overshadowed  by  its  exaggeration  into  a  powerfully  ef- 
fective means  of  preservation  of  the  individual,  is  evidently  the 
same  as  in  other  species  of  Mustelidse,  each  one  of  which  has 
its  own  emanation  to  bring  the  sexes  together,  not  only  by  simply 
indicating  their  whereabouts,  but  by  serving  as  a  positive  attrac- 
tion. In  the  case  of  the  skunk,  it  would  seem  that  the  strong 
scent  has  actually  tended  to  result  in  a  more  gregarious  mode  of 
life  than  is  usual  in  this  family  of  mammals ;  and  it  is  certain,  at 
any  rate,  that  the  occupancy  by  one  animal  of  a  permanent  winter 
abode  serves  to  attract  others  to  the  sam.e  retreat.  Burrows 
are  sometimes  found  to  contain  as  many  as  a  dozen  individuals, 
not  members  of  one  family,  but  various  adult  animals  drawn  to- 
gether. One  other  effect  of  the  possession  of  such  unique  powers 
is  seen  not  so  much  in  mode  of  life  as  in  the  actual  disposition 
of  the  creature.  Its  heedless  familiarity,  its  temerity  in  push- 
ing into  places  which  other  animals  instinctively  avoid  as  danger- 
ous, and  its  indisposition  to  seek  safety  by  hasty  retreat,  are  evi- 


44 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


dent  results  of  its  confidence  in  the  extraordinary  means  of  de- 
fense with  which  it  is  provided.  In  speculating  upon  the  devel- 
opment of  this  anal  armature  to  a  degree  which  renders  it  sub- 
servient to  purposes  for  which  the  glands  of  other  Mustelidse, 
though  of  similar  character,  are  manifestly  inadequate,  and  it 
may  not  be  amiss  to  recall  how  defenseless  the  skunk  would  other- 
wise be  in  comparison  with  its  allies.  A  tardy,  terrestrial  ani- 
mal of  no  great  strength  or  spirit,  lacking  the  sagacity  and 
prowess  of  the  wolverene,  the  scansorial  ability  of  the  marten, 
the  agility,  small  size,  and  tenuity  of  body  of  the  weasel,  the 
swimming  and  diving  powers  of  the  otter,  and  even  much  of  the 
eminent  fossorial  capacity  of  its  nearest  relations,  the  badger — 
lacking  all  these  qualities,  which  in  their  several  exhibitions  con- 
duce to  the  safety  of  the  respective  species,  it  is  evident  that  ad- 
ditional means  of  self-protection  were  required;  while  the  abun- 
dance of  the  animal  in  most  parts  of  the  country,  and  its  audacity 
in  the  face  of  danger,  show  that  its  confidence  in  the  singular 
means  of  defense  it  possesses  is  not  misplaced.'' 

The  White  animal  that  has  a  clear,  white-furred  pelt 

Skunk  very  sparingly  found,  in  fact  so  seldom,  that 

many  consider  it  a  freak  of  nature  and  not  a  dis- 
tinct species.  It  is  common  to  receive  skins  which  are  commer- 
cially called  ''white  skunk  skins,''  but  these  have  some  black  fur, 
either  on  the  shoulders,  neck  or  legs,  and  occasionally  a  few  black 
hairs  or  an  extremely  narrow  stripe  of  black  fur  in  center  of  the 
skin,  beginning  about  the  shoulders  and  terminating  at  the  tail.  In 
length,  quality  and  texture,  the  fur  compares  favorably  with  the 
other  species.  The  skins  have  little  value.  The  range  of  prices 
depends  somewhat  upon  the  size  of  the  skin,  primeness,  density, 
quality  and  texture  of  the  fur  fibers.  A  choice,  perfect,  clear 
white-furred  skin  (in  its  natural  state),  suitable  for  manufactur- 
ing purposes  or  for  specimen  purposes,  is  worth  75  c  to  $2.00 
Those  that  are  partly  stained  or  of  a  yellowish  cast,  are  in  little 
demand  and  their  price  ranges  from  20c  to  50  c,  which  is  also  the 
price  of  skins  that  have  more  or  less  black  hairs  or  fur,  in  con- 
nection with  the  predominating  white  fur. 

The  white  skunk  is  found  in  common  with  the  black,  short 
striped  and  narrow  striped  species,  chiefly  in  the  localities  where 
the  black  and  short  striped  species  are  more  plentiful.  Are  un- 
known in  the  locality  that  the  large,  narrow  and  long  striped 
skunk  inhabits.  Are  found  in  the  eastern,  Atlantic,  middle  and 
western  states,  but  the  percentage  of  white  furred  skunk  skins, 
including  those  also  commercially  called  ''white  skunk  skins," 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


45 


is  small.  Trappers  dislike  this  species,  and  are  aggravated  to 
find  a  white  skunk  instead  of  a  black  or  short  striped  animal 
in  their  trap. 

The  Black  animal  that  has  a  black  coat  of  fur  is  found 

Skunk  many  states,  those  of  New  York,  New  Jersey, 

Pennsylvania,  Michigan,  Wisconsin,  and  eastern 
Canada,  are  better  furred,  and  in  consequence  command  better 
prices  than  those  coming  from  the  central  states.  The  black 
skunk  is  also  found  in  Illinois,  Indiana,  Kentucky,  Arkansas, 
Virginia,  North  Carolina  and  South  Carolina,  in  fact  in  every 
locality  excepting  in  the  northwestern  states,  also  northwestern 
parts  of  Canada.  The  animal  cohabits  with  the  other  species, 
and  there  is  no  apparent  rule  governing  the  breeding  and  inter- 
breeding and  the  probable  coloration  of  the  offspring.  Some- 
what disregarding  the  color  of  the  parents,  the  litter  contains 
black,  white,  short,  narrow  and  broad  striped  youngsters.  The 
fur  of  the  black  skunk,  especially  the  eastern  variety,  is  soft, 
wavy,  and  of  a  deep  lustrous  black.  Those  animals  that  have 
only  a  small  white  furred  star  at  the  forehead  are  commercially 
called  ''black  skunk."  The  tail  of  such  a  skin  is  invariably 
covered  with  long,  black  hairs.  The  animal  that  inhabits  the 
southern  and  southwestern  states  is  rather  small  and  the  fur  in- 
ferior, consequently  the  skins  command  a  lower  price  as  com- 
pared with  those  found  in  the  middle  or  eastern  states. 

Short  Stri  ed      This  animal  inhabits  the  same  section  as  the 
Skunk  black  skunk,  the  only  difference  between  them 

is  that  the  small  white  star  of  the  former  de- 
velops into  prongs  or  two  distinct  white-furred  stripes,  starting  at 
the  forehead  and  terminating  at  or  about  the  shoulders  or  center 
of  body.  Quite  often  the  forehead  is  entirely  covered  with  white 
fur,  and  immediately  beginning  at  the  top  of  head  the  white  hair 
continues  in  two  prongs,  each  varying  in  width  from  three-eighths 
to  three-fourths  of  an  inch.  Should  the  white  stripes  continue 
clear  across  the  body  and  terminate  at  the  tail,  such  skins  can- 
not be  classed  as  short  striped  but  are  known  as  long,  narrow 
or  broad  stripe. 

Short  striped  skins  are  second  in  value,  the  price  being  about 
one-third  less  than  that  of  the  black  skins.  The  white  stripes  are 
of  no  value  to  the  manufacturer,  these  are  cut  out  by  him,  and 
for  that  reason  the  skin  that  has  the  greatest  amount  of  black 
fur  is  worth  more  and  the  value  lessened  by  the  increase  of  the 
white  stripe.  The  fur  of  the  tail  is  black  with  intermingled 
white  hairs.  The  disagreeable  odor  is  removed  by  the  dresser 
(tanner)  and  by  the  time  the  skin  reaches  the  manufacturer,  it 


46 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


is  cleansed  from  all  impurities  and  ready  to  be  made  into  garments 

OA  •    J    This  animal  inhabits  nearly  every  state  and 
Narrow  Striped     ...  r   .1      tt  •  j  \  4.  x 

Skunk  territory  of  the  Union  and  greater  part  of 

Canada,  and  is  the  true  American  skunk,  the 
one  that  is  so  much  detested  by  the  traveler  and  the  early  histori- 
ans. His  coat  of  fur  is  black,  excepting  two  white  stripes  begin- 
ning at  the  forehead  and  terminating  at  the  tail.  The  width  of 
these  stripes  varies  somewhat,  depending  upon  the  size  of  the  ani- 
mal, usually  three-eighths  to  three-fourths  of  an  inch.  There  is 
always  a  goodly  portion  of  black  fur  between  these  stripes.  The 
white  stripe  is  of  no  particular  value,  and  after  the  skin  comes 
back  from  the  dresser,  the  manufacturer  removes  the  white  stripe 
and  sews  the  balance  of  the  skin  together.  The  white  stripes 
are  narrow  and  close  together,  but  widen  apart  at  center  of  back, 
and  again  narrowing  when  close  to  the  root  of  tail.  The  largest 
animals  of  the  skunk  family  come  under  the  long  or  narrow 
striped  species.  Some  of  these  animals  are  as  large  as  the  badger 
and  raccoon.  The  smallest  skins  come  from  Texas  and  other 
southern  states ;  the  fur  is  rather  coarse  and  such  skins  have 
little  value. 

r,  J  ox  •  J  This  animal  is  found  in  common  with  the 
Broad  Striped  .  1         i-rr  .        ,  . 

Skunk  previous  species,  and  its  dmerence  is  only  m 

the  width  of  the  white  stripe  which  is  wider, 
and  the  quantity  of  black  fur  on  the  skin  is  lessened,  thereby  di- 
minishing the  value  of  the  skin.  This  species  is  found  more  plen- 
tiful in  the  southern  and  southwestern  states,  is  quite  numerous 
in  the  Atlantic,  western  and  northwestern  states.  On  some  speci- 
mens the  white  stripe  is  so  broad  that  very  little  black  fur  is 
left.  Perhaps  this  is  more  true  of  the  smaller  skins  received 
from  Texas  and  other  southern  states,  and,  of  course,  these  have 
little  value.  There  is  no  apparent  iron-clad  rule,  or  a  dividing 
line  between,  or  just  where  and  when  a  skin  should  be  called 
broad  stripe  and  not  a  narrow  striped  skin.  This  naturally  must 
be  left  largely  to  the  judgment  and  discretion  of  the  buyer  or 
the  manufacturer,  who,  in  grading,  seeks  an  average  more  than 
any  particular  dividing  line.  The  tail  is  covered  with  white  hairs 
with  occasional  interspersed  black  hairs. 

One  Stri  ed       This  animal  has  a  long,  horizontal  white  stripe 
Skunk  extending  from  forehead,  continuing  over  the 

body,  terminating  at  root  of  the  tail ;  the  latter 
is  covered  with  white  fur  and  is  probably  more  bushy  in  proportion 
to  its  size,  than  the  other  northwestern  species.  He  is  found  only 
in  the  lower  tiers  of  states  bordering  Mexico,  probably  more  nu- 
merous in  California  than  any  other  portion  of  this  country.  The 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


47 


skin  is  of  no  great  value.  The  fur  is  rather  coarse  and  the 
skins  undesirable 

From  the  above  description  it  will  be  noted  that  the  value  of 
the  pelt  lies  principally  in  the  quantity  of  black  fur,  diminishes 
by  the  increase  and  increasing  by  the  lessening  of  the  white  fur. 
The  clear  black  and  most  glossy  furred  skins  bring  the  best 
prices;  the  skins  of  the  eastern  animal  are  more  desirable  as 
compared  with  those  from  the  middle  states.  Manufacturers 
desire  the  extreme  large,  long  striped  skins  obtained  in  some  of 
the  northwestern  states,  including  Manitoba  and  other  parts  of 
Canada,  for  the  reason  that  the  fur  is  long  and  lustrous  and  the 
skin  very  large. 

Of  late  years  the  white  stripes  that  are  cut  out  of  the  skins 
are  being  used  in  the  manufacture  of  spurious  tails  which  are  dyed 
to  imitate  the  natural  tail  of  mink,  marten,  etc.  At  other  times 
these  white  pieces  are  sold  in  connection  with  other  fur  scraps  or 
cuttings  to  hat  manufacturers  at  a  price  of  2  to  3  cents  per  pound. 

Only  those  skins  that  are  prime  in  leather  and  full  furred, 
command  good  prices.  Skins  that  are  unprime  are  habitually 
poorly  furred  and  the  leather  possesses  insufificient  strength,  also 
the  principal  guard  hairs  protrude  through  the  leather.  The 
average  price  of  skins,  and  the  quantity  annually  marketed  for 
a  period  of  years,  will  be  noted  elsewhere.  These  tables  are 
very  interesting  and  should  be  perused  by  the  reader  to  obtain 
a  closer  conception  of  the  magnitude  and  the  probable  future 
resources  of  this  animal. 

A  story  related  by  one  of  the  perpetrators  of  a  joke  upon  a 
young  Russian  deserter  located  in  North  Dakota,  is  very  interest- 
ing. In  company  with  three  others,  he  was  taken  on  a  hunting 
expedition  in  quest  of  foxes  and  coyotes,  the  latter  for  the  bounty, 
and  the  former  for  his  pelt,  which  was  worth  $4.00  to  $5.00.  He 
was  impressed  with  the  great  value  of  silver  or  black  fox  skins  and 
their  color,  etc.  During  the  forenoon  each  of  the  three  succeed- 
ed in  killing  one  or  more  foxes  and  wolves,  but  the  young  Rus- 
sian was  rather  unfortunate  and  depressed  in  spirits,  he  not 
having  had  any  success.  A  little  later  on  he  perceived  a  large 
stone  pile,  and  upon  nearing  it  some  black  furred  animal  entered 
therein.  Apparently  this  movement  was  also  noted  by  the  others, 
but  the  Russian  became  excited,  thinking  that  he  had  seen  a  . 
black  or  silver  fox  enter  the  stone-pile.  The  others,  however, 
knew  that  the  animal  he  had  seen  was  a  skunk.  It  was  agreed 
that  whatever  the  animal  might  be,  the  Russian  was  entitled  to 
its  capture.  The  others  gradually  withdrew,  but  before  depart- 
ing, cautioned  him,  also  intimated  that  the  probable  capture  of 


48 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


the  black  looking  animal  might  place  hundreds  of  dollars  in  his 
pocket,  especially  if  it  happened  to  be  a  well  furred  black  fox, 
and  if  he  could  be  captured  without  injuring  the  skin.  The 
companions  in  withdrawing  chuckled  to  themselves  and  left  the 
''tenderfoot''  to  his  wits  and  at  the  mercy  of  the  skunk. 

The  ambition  of  the  Russian  was  to  capture  the  fox  alive  and 
immediately  rolled  a  large  stone  at  the  opening  so  as  to  prevent 
sudden  egress.  Stone  after  stone  was  now  rolled  and  thrown 
aside,  he  working  like  a  Trojan  for  about  20  minutes,  before  he 
reached  what  he  thought  was  the  den.  There  was  no  fox  in 
sight,  and  more  stones  were  removed,  and  while  so  occupied  a 
skunk  came  out  from  one  of  the  excavations ;  turning  his  tail 
to  the  enemy,  who  at  that  moment  perceived  the  supposed  fox 
and  started  to-  grab  him,  but  in  return  received  one  or  more 
charges  from  the  concealed  battery.  Perhaps  this  was  too  sud- 
den for  both,  at  least  indications  pointed  that  both  were  surpris- 
ed, but  as  neither  party  gave  quarters  in  the  battle  that  followed, 
as  may  be  expected  the  Russian  became  the  victor,  but  much  to 
his  sorrow  immediately  thereafter.  Holding  the  skunk  by  the 
neck  with  both  hands  he  begged  assistance,  claiming  he  could 
not  see  and  had  difficulty  in  breathing.  He  finally  dropped  the 
skunk,  which  decamped  back  to  the  stone  pile,  while  he  reached 
for  his  handkerchief,  wiped  his  face  and  eyes,  spat,  and  acted 
as  if  demented.  His  face,  hands  and  clothing  were  full  of  per- 
fume, which  became  unbearable  to  him,  and  upon  being  told 
that  the  animal  was  a  skunk  and  not  a  fox,  he  cussed  the  skunk, 
stone  pile,  country  and  his  companions,  but  all  to  no  avail.  The 
hunt  ended  right  there  and  then,  and  they  all  departed  for  home. 
Upon  arriving  home  his  clothes  were  removed  and  burned.  His 
style  of  action  in  battle  was  criticised  and  the  probable  result 
is  that  when  he  again  enters  into  a  fight  of  this  nature,  he  will 
attack  the  enemy  ''face  to  face." 


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49 


THE  CIVET  CAT. 

Little  Striped  Skunk.    Lat.  Mephitis  (Spilogale)  Putorius, 

AMERICAN  civet  cat  must  not  be  con- 
fused with  the  animal  inhabiting  Africa  or 
Southern  Asia  known  as  the  African  civet 
from  whose  pouch  a  perfume,  commercially 
known  as  ''Civet''  is  extracted.  This  little 
four-striped  skunk,  under  which  name  it  is 
also  known,  belonging  to  the  skunk  family, 
possesses  carnivcrous  and  nocturnal  habits.  The  animal  is  found 
in  nearly  all  southern,  central  and  Pacific  states ;  is  scarcely  found 
in  the  states  bordering  Canada,  and  is  unknown  in  the  latter  coun- 
try. The  animal  is  quite  numerous  in  the  central  states,  and  es- 
pecially so  in  Iowa,  Missouri,  Kansas,  Indiana,  Illinois  and  Ne- 
braska. A  large  number  of  skins  are  annually  received  from  the 
southwestern  and  western  states,  also  from  Florida  and  Texas. 
The  animal  measures  from  23  to  28  inches  from  end  of  nose  to  tip 
of  tail  and  stands  four  to  five  inches  high  from  the  heel  to  top  of 
shoulder.  The  construction  of  the  animal's  body  is  such  enabling 
it  to  be  quick  in  action  and  the  body  proper  weighs  three,  not 
exceeding  four  pounds. 

The  fantastic,  harlequin-like  coloring  is  seldom  duplicated  in 
any  two  species,  and  in  fact,  no  two  skins  in  a  lot  of  three  to 
five  hundred  can  be  found  alike — due  to  change  and  number  of 
spots  and  the  peculiar  formation  of  the  stripes.  The  animal 
possesses  a  coat  of  soft,  black  fur,  having  a  white  star  in  the 
center  of  the  forehead,  and  four  parallel  and  almost  equi-distant 
stripes,  beginning  on  the  uppermost  portion  of  the  head  between 
the  ears,  and  ending  at  or  about  the  center  of  the  body.  Another 
stripe-like  formation  on  each  side  of  the  stripes  heretofore  men- 
tioned being  curved  in  harp  or  lyre-like  shape,  encircling  and 
ending  about  the  center  of  the  body.  This  concludes  the  stripes 
and  the  remainder  of  the  black  fur  is  intermingled  with  6  to  8 
other  small  white  spots.  The  tail  possesses  a  growth  of  hair 
usually  4  to  5  inches  in  length,  while  that  of  the  tailbone  proper 
seldom  exceeds  7  inches,  usually  5  to  6  inches,  a  total  length  of 
10  to  15  inches,  (four-fifths  of  body).  Dr.  Coues,  in  describing 
the  stripes  and  the  fur,  notes  as  follows : 

'The  notorious  inconstancy  of  the  white  markings  of  skunks, 
even  of  those  in  which  the  pattern  is  normally  simplest,  finds 
room  for  exaggeration  in  the  highest  degree  in  this  case  where 
the  normal  markings  are  numerous  and  complicated.    In  some 


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51 


cases,  owing  to  interruption  of  the  usual  stripes,  I  have  counted 
no  less  than  eighteen  separate  white  marks,  exclusive  of  tail- 
tip  and  the  vague  chin-spots.  The  three  head  spots  and  the  four 
parallel  dorsal  stripes  on  the  anterior  part  of  the  body  are  the 
most  constant,  and  may,  so  far  as  I  have  seen,  be  always  traced, 
though  the  medium  pair  of  stripes  are  liable  to  slight  interrup- 
tion. The  lateral  pair  are  the  firmest  of  all  the  markings.  There 
is  special  liability  to  a  break  in  these  stripes  where  they  begin 
to  curve  downward  on  the  side.  Complete  break  here,  fusion 
of  the  solitary  pair  of  dorsal  spots  with  the  transverse  flank 
stripe,  and  lengthening  into  a  stripe  of  the  hip-spot  result  in  three 
vertical,  crescentic  stripes  succeeding  each  other  behind  the  end 
of  the  main  lateral  stripe,  that  runs  from  the  ear  over  the  shoul- 
der. Interruption  of  these  transverse  crescents  may  give  a 
set  of  numerous  spots,  without  traceable  stripes,  on  the  hinder 
part  of  the  body;  indeed,  the  markings  of  this  part  of  the  body 
are  wholly  indefinite.  The  lateral  spots  at  the  root  of  the  tail 
often  fuse  into  one.  The  tail  is  ordinarily  black  with  definite 
white  tip,  but  may  have  white  hairs  mixed  with  the  black  through- 
out, or  be  all  black  or  all  white.  The  shoulder  stripe  sometimes 
sends  short  spurs  around  toward  the  throat  and  breast.  The 
chin  and  upper  throat  may  be  perfectly  black,  or  streaked  through- 
out with  white.  The  part  of  the  ear  corresponding  with  the 
white  markings  about  it  is  commonly  light  colored;  the  rest  of 
the  ear  is  black.  The  naked  muffle  is  dark  colored.  The  claws 
are  horn  colored.'' 

The  animal's  wide  geographical  distribution  most  naturally 
results  in  marked  differences  in  size  of  the  animal,  and  color 
of  its  pelage.  The  habits,  however,  are  the  same.  The  black 
fur  is  quite  pure  and  glossy  with  the  exception  of  animals  from 
certain  parts  of  Texas  where  the  soil  has  a  tendency  to  give 
the  fur  a  reddish  hue.  The  skin  from  animals  above  denoted 
Dossess  four  to  six  white  stripes  with  numerous  white  spots,  and 
its  tail  is  covered  with  long,  black  and  white  hairs.  The  skins 
are  used  natural  or  dyed  black,  and  chiefly  for  lining  purposes. 
The  price  of  skins  varies  considerably,  usually  15c  to  35c.  The 
fur  is  not  as  staple  as  that  of  mink,  skunk  or  muskrat. 

L,  .  In  respect  to  habits  the  animal  closely  resembles  that 
Habits.       ri      iiT-  1       1'  1 

of  the  skunk.    It  is  nocturnal  and  carnivorous,  better 

adapted  to  climbing  trees  and  more  readily  covers  distances  than 
does  the  skunk.  His  favorable  abode  is  under  some  old  build- 
ing, shack,  crib,  etc.,  at  other  times  in  some  hollow  log  or  bur- 
row made  by  other  animals.  Such  is  generally  on  the  side  of  a 
hill  facing  the  morning  sun.    His  principal  food  is  worms,  bugs, 


52 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


grasshoppers,  frogs,  mice,  birds  and  rats.  In  some  sections  it  is 
claimed  the  animal  is  a  great  vegetarian. 

By  the  two  anul  glands  from  which  by  the  contraction  of 
the  subcaudal  muscles  and  by  the  uplifting  of  the  tail,  a  fluid 
ranking  in  odor  to  that  of  the  skunk,  is  discharged.  The  animal 
can  discharge  this  obnoxious  fluid  at  its  pleasure. 


THE  BADGER. 


( Ger.  Dachs,  Lat,  Taxidea  Americana.) 

OTABLE  differences  between  the  American 
and  the  European  badger  has  caused  naturalists 
to  distinguish  and  divide  these  into  separate 
species,  where  they  rightfully  belong.  The  four 
members  or  sub-family  of  the  Melinae  are  found 
in  Europe,  Asia  and  America.  The  animal  found 
on  this  continent  is  again  sub-divided  and  the 
offspring  known  as  the  Mexican  badger  is  spar- 
ingly found  in  Texas  and  the  bordering  states  along  the  Mexican 
frontier  to  California,  but  principally  confined  to  Mexico. 

The  American  badger  (T.  Americana)  makes  his  home  largely 
in  open  or  prairie  sections  and  is  quite  abundant  west  of  the 
Mississippi  River,  though  sparingly  found  in  nearly  every  other 
state  and  territory  in  the  United  States ;  also  in  parts  of  Canada, 
but  in  the  latter  country  his  existence  is  doubted  northward  of 
latitude  60  degrees  north.  Inquiry  among  traders  operating  north 
of  the  Great  Slave  Lake  would  indicate  that  the  badger  is  un- 
known in  that  region.  The  badger  is  quite  plentiful  in  the 
southern  states,  but  the  animal  is  smaller,  his  pelage  somewhat 
differently  colored,  which  is  also  coarser  and  the  general  char- 
acter of  the  southern  typical  badger  gradually  melts  into  the 
Mexican  sub-species  berlandieri. 

The  body  is  stout,  broad  and  flat,  rather  depressed  and  clumsy, 
about  24  to  32  inches  long  with  a  stubby  tail  measuring  4  to  6 
inches.  Its  legs  are  short  but  heavy,  being  stoutly  built,  and 
its  feet  resemble  those  of  the  bear,  long  and  large  with  five  toes 
into  which  an  equal  number  of  long,  curved  claws  are  firmly  set ; 
those  of  the  front  feet  measure  to  2^  inches  on  outside 
curvature,  while  the  rear  claws  are  rather  stubby  and  only  one- 
half  to  two-thirds  as  long,  also  the  toes  and  feet  are  only  pro- 
portionately as  large  as  are  the  front  feet.  The  head  is  rather 
small,  and  like  the  body,  flat,  especially  very  broad  across  the 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  53 


forehead.  Its  snout  is  pointed  but  not  necessarily  long.  The 
dental  formation  consists  of  34  teeth.  In  the  animal's  natural 
erect  position  the  belly  portion  is  scarcely  more  than  3  to  3^ 
inches  from  the  ground,  while  to  the  top  at  center  of  back  a  total 
elevation  of  12  to  13  inches  may  be  attained. 

A  large,  full-grown  northern  male  badger  when  at  its  best 
will  weigh  about  40  pounds ;  that  of  the  middle  or  western  states 
25  to  30  pounds,  and  the  sout'  ern  species  not  much  over  20 
pounds.  The  female  or  the  two-year-old  male  is  only  two-thirds, 
probably  three-fourths  as  large  and  as  heavy.  The  fur  of  the 
badger  varies  greatly  in  color  and  texture  as  a  fortutious  matter 
of  age,  season,  natural  surroundings  and  conditions,  besides  the 
usual  climatic  and  geographical  differences  that  form  a  con- 
spicuous part  in  noting  the  dift'erences  in  species,  and  become 
the  nucleus  in  the  naturalists'  opinion  when  sub-dividing  or  re- 
arranging the  order  of  mammalia.  Nature  does  not  provide  a 
like  coat  of  fur  for  animals  inhabiting  different  climates,  and 
a  contrast  is  even  noticeable  between  animals  possessing,  as 
does  the  badger,  hibernating  habits,  where  one  is  exposed  to  the 
elements  and  the  other  remains  for  one  or  more  winter  months 
in  his  or  her  cave  or  burrow.  Manufacturers,  fur  buyers,  traders 
and  trappers,  in  fact  almost  everyone  connected  with  the  raw 
fur  business,  are  puzzled  in  the  contrast  of  quality,  quantity,  length 
and  texture  of  the  fur  fibers  that  exists  between  badgers  from 
the  same  locality,  of  equal  age  and  size,  and  like  period  of  the 
season.  Both  skins  may  be  prime  from  the  flesh  side,  while 
'one  may  possess  a  soft,  long,  mellow,  and  in  fact  perfect  coat  of 
fur,  the  other  is  unprime,  harsh,  shallow,  coarse  and  flat,  and  en- 
tirely unsuited  for  manufacturing  purposes. 

The  pelage  of  the  mounted  speciman  accompaying  this  ar- 
ticle, measures  to  2  inches  on  the  upper  part  of  body,  while 
at  its  side  the  outer  guard  hairs  are  three-fourths  to  i  inch 
longer.  (2^  'to  3  inches.)  The  belly  portion  is  covered  with 
a  short,  coarse  growth  of  fur  three-eighths  to  one-half  inch  in 
length.  In  color  the  main  fur  fibers  are  divided  by  the  outer 
points,  being  gray  and  of  a  silver  tipped  nature,  and  beginning 
at  the  middle,  gradually  turn  into  a  light  yellow,  somewhat  dirty 
looking,  color.  The  fur  on  or  about  the  tail  is  considerably 
coarser  and  a  peculiar  yellowish  cast  predominates.  The  fur 
about  the  upper  portion  of  its  legs,  also  about  the  neck,  is  short 
and  black.  The  male  generally  possesses  a  darker  coat  of  fur 
and  is  also  more  conspicuous  in  size  than  the  female,  the  latter 
being  one-third  to  one-fourth  smaller  and  the  body  more 
flattened. 


Mounted  Specimen 
owned  by  Andersch  Bros. 


THE  BADGER 

Extra  large  and  full  grown 


South  Dakota 
Full  Furred 


Andersch  Sros/  tluniers  and  Trappers  Guide.  55 


Habits.  ^^^^  animars  feet  and  claws  are  especially  adapted 
for  digging,  and  it  is  no  wonder  at  all  that  the  badger, 
if  observed  within  a  reasonable  distance,  can  make  a  burrow  of 
sufficient  depth  to  bury  himself  before  the  intruder  reaches  the 
spot.  In  sandy  soil,  the  badger  will  make  a  burrow  of  sufficient 
depth  to  bury  himself  in  the  remarkably  short  space  of  two 
minutes,  and  the  hunter  on  approaching  the  spot  where  the 
animal  was  seen,  finds  only  the  traces  of  his  fresh  work;  by 
disturbing  the  ground  he  will  find  the  animal  on  his  back  ready 
to  assume  the  attack.  The  badger  above  all  other  animals  is 
noted  for  its  flatness ;  even  when  running  it  looks  broad  and  flat, 
and  its  body  seems  to  sweep  the  ground  during  its  rather  slow, 
heavy  and  awkward  progress.  Seen  when  crouching  in  fancied  se- 
curity, or  hoping  to  escape  observation  (and  it  will  sometimes 
remain  long  motionless  in  this  posture,  permitting  near  ap- 
proach), the  animal  might  easily  be  mistaken  for  a  stone  or 
clod  of  earth.  The  very  hairs  lie  flat,  as  if  parted  in  middle,  and 
form  a  fringe  along  either  side,  projecting,  as  one  writer  has 
remarked,  ''like  the  shell  of  a  turtle  or  the  eaves  of  a  house.'' 

The  food  consists  of  roots,  bugs,  worms,  eggs,  birds,  mice, 
rabbits,  and  frogs ;  also  seeks  the  nest  of  bees,  and,  seemingly, 
the  tough  hide  is  impervious  to  the-  stings  of  the  native  bee  as 
well  as  the  bumblebee.  The  abode  of  the  badger  is  in  some  hole, 
quite  often  on  the  sunny  side  of  some  hill.  He  has  from  three 
to  five  subterraneous  passages  leading  to  his  living  room.  The 
latter  is  well  supplied  with  food  and  padded  out  with  vegetation 
such  as  straw,  grass,  leaves,  etc.  Usually  one  passage  is  used 
for  entering  and  egress,  the  others  being  built  for  air  purposes ; 
also  in  case  of  danger  to  have  free  access  or  exit.  Quite  often 
the  animal  will  expose  himself  to  the  rays  of  the  sun,  and  when 
ill-disposed  will  walk  about  the  opening  of  the  exit,  up  and  down, 
m.aking  a  quick  turn  at  each  end  and  view  the  surroundings  with 
a  demeanor  indicating  nervousness. 

The  breeding  season  begins  early  in  the  spring  and  during 
the  month  of  May  the  mother  brings  forth  a  litter  of  three  to 
five,  which  are  born  in  her  den.  After  suckling  them  for  a 
period  of  60  to  75  days,  she  trains  them  to  catch,  kill  and  devour 
mice,  bugs  and  worms.  Shortly  thereafter  the  mother  loses  her 
affection  for  her  young  and  they  are  placed  upon  their  own  re- 
sources, but  continue  to  inhabit  the  same  abode  until  the  be- 
ginning of  fall.  The  father  cares  little  for  the  comfort  of  the 
children  or  that  of  the  mother  during  the  entire  period.  The 
young  mature  in  24  months,  and  the  animal  attains  an  age  of 
10  to  12  years.  As  a  rule  the  male  badger  will  inhabit  a  certain 
abode  all  by  himself,  and  only  during  the  breeding  time  will  he 


56 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


assume  the  companionship  of  the  female.  It  happens  quite  often 
that  a  red  fox  will  inhabit  part  of  the  den  with  the  badger,  and, 
seemingly,  the  two  animals  get  along  nicely,  neither  one  disturb- 
ing or  observing  the  other.  In  the  fall  the  badger  will  carry 
leaves  and  other  soft  material  into  his  den  with  which  to  pad 
and  upholster,  also  to  absorb  the  dampness  of  the  ground  in 
his  quarters,  thus  making  ready  for  a  severe  winter.  Just  be- 
fore winter  sets  in,  the  badger  will  carry  a  moderate  supply  of 
food  to  his  den  or  permit  same  to  remain  in  some  of  the  passages 
heretofore  occasionally  used.  When  about  to  begin  his  winter 
sleep,  the  animal  will  place  his  head  between  his  two  front  feet, 
lie  on  his  belly  and  sometimes  slumber  along  for  weeks  and 
even  months  at  a  time.  During  warm  spells  or  thawy  nights  the 
animal  is  likely  to  proceed  somewhat  beyond  the  outer  opening, 
and  after  a  stay  of  one  to  five  hours  will  return  and  resume  his 
sleeping  posture. 

This  animal  should  be  killed  for  its  fur  only  in  the  winter, 
and  even  then  quite  a  number  of  the  skins  received  indicate  that 
the  animal  was  not  sufficiently  exposed  to  the  elements,  or  at 
any  rate  the  fur  is  unprime,  regardless  of  the  fact  that  the  skin 
on  the  flesh  side  indicates  primeness.  Only  such  skins  that  have 
a  long  soft-furred  coat  are  of  any  value;  flat,  unprime  badger 
skin  5  should  not  be  marketed. 


WILD  CAT 


Andersch  Bros.'  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


57 


THE  WILD  CAT. 

( Ger.  Wildkatze,  Lat.  Lynx  Rufus.) 

• 

ONSIDERABLE  confusion  exists  between  dif- 
ferent naturalists ;  some  claim  that  the  Amer- 
ican and  European  wild  cat  is  closely  related 
and  direct  descendent  of  the  domestic  house 
cat;  others  are  likewise  determined  that  this 
carnivorous  cat  is  a  lynx,  and  that  climatic 
and  geographical  differences  are  responsible 
for  the  variation  in  size,  color  and  other  char- 
acteristics. 

In  this  country,  the  ordinary  wild  cat,  in- 
habiting as  it  does  nearly  every  state  and  territory  in  the  Union, 
shows  rnarked  variation,  and  unusual  differences  in  size  and 
color  exist.  The  animal  is  known  under  different  names:  bob 
cat,  bay  lynx,  red  lynx,  etc.  The  species  certainly  resembles  the 
true  lynx  much  more  than  it  does  the  house  cat,  and  any  of  the 
latter  names  would  be  more  appropriate.  Some  of  the  northern 
species  resemble  the  Canadian  lynx  so  closely  in  size  and  color 
and  markings  of  fur,  also  in  its  tail,  that,  unless  closely  observed, 
one  would  believe  that  they  are  the  same  species ;  this  however 
is  not  true  of  the  beasts  found  in  other  parts  of  North  America. 

A  full-grown  northern  wild  cat  will  measure  32  to  36  inches 
from  nose  to  root  of  tail.  The  latter  is  about  5  inches  long, 
rather  slender,  and  the  fur  of  that  member  closely  resembles  that 
of  the  body,  excepting  the  tip,  which  has  a  semi-circle  of  black 
^ur  on  the  end.  Such  a  cat  will  weigh  from  30  to  36  pounds,  but 
individual  male  beasts  have  been  known  to  weigh  as  much  as 
40  pounds.  The  legs  are  stout,  but  incomparable  with  those 
of  the  Canadian  lynx.  They  seem  rather  long  and  slender  and. 
are  well  furred.  The  feet  are  proportionately  as  large,  and 
sharp  and  re-tractable  claws,  well  curved,  enables  the  beast  to 
climb  trees  with  remarkable  ease.  The  pelage  of  the  northern 
species  during  the  winter  months  consists  of  a  rather  dense 
coat  of  fur,  fairly  soft,  resembling  somewhat  the  color  of  the 
true  Canadian  lynx,  being  light  brown  with  whitish  tufts  here 
and  there,  and  the  back  portion  has  rather  a  reddish  cast.  Oc- 
casionally the  fur  of  the  northern  wild  cat  is  of  a  silver  grey 
color.  The  belly  part  is  covered  with  a  less  dense  growth  of 
fur  with  whitish  colored  interspersed  tufts  of  black  hair.  There 
are  two  apparent  dorsal  stripes  of  darker  hair  beginning  at  the 
forehead,  continuing  over  the  body,  but  at  times  these  stripes 


58 


Andersch  Sros/  Ituniers  and  Trappers  Cruide. 


are  indistinct,  and  give  way  to  tufts  of  fur  that  are  two  or  three 
shades  darker. 

The  ruffious  formation  or  whiskers  as  they  are  sometimes 
called,  that  make  the  Canadian  lynx  so  conspicuous,  is  also 
noticeable  on  the  wild  cat.  The  fur  on  the  tail  is  notable  in  its 
intermingled,  alternating,  ring  formation,  ending  as  it  does  with 
a  black  tip  of  a  semi-circle  form.  The  fur  on  the  southern  and 
western  species  is  rather  short,  harsh  and  of  a  reddish  cast,  and 
the  black  spots  or  tufts  that  scarcely  appear  only  on  the  belly 
of  the  northern  species,  are  more  numerous  and  nearly  all  over 
the  animal's  body.    Fully  as  large,  if  not  larger,  beasts  inhabit 


some  of  the  western  and  southwestern  states.  Individual  skins 
received  from  Colorado  and  other  mountainous  sections,  measure 
42  to  44  inches  from  nose  to  root  of  tail.  The  latter  member, 
from  sections,  attains  a  total  length  of  7  to  7^  inches.  The 
animal  that  inhabits  the  southeastern  and  middle  states  is  com- 
paratively smaller,  invariably  weighing  18  to  22  pounds. 

In  the  fur  trade  that  species  commonly  known  as  the  red 
lynx,  which  is  found  in  the  western,  also  Pacific  states,  is  graded 
as  ''wild  cat,"  the  skin  resembling  that  of  the  latter.  In  quality 
the  fur  is  inferior,  while  the  average  weight  of  these  animals  is 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Ouide, 


59 


from  20  to  30  pounds;  some  species  weigh  considerably  more. 
The  value  of  wild  cat  skins  varies  considerably,  those  of  the 
northern  being  worth  from  $1.00  to  $2.00;  those  of  the  middle 
and  northwestern  states,  65c  to  $1.50  and  those  of  the  southern 
25c  to  $1.00.  During  the  summer  months  the  fur  is  extremely 
short  and  of  a  reddish  cast ;  especially  is  this  true  of  the  south- 
ern species  and  such  skins  are  of  little  value. 

Habits.  animal  possesses  great  strength,  and  when  pur- 

sued, hard  pressed  or  cornered,  will,  with  daring  and 
ferocity  of  extraordinary  degree,  go  for  the  intruder,  be  it  dog, 


beast,  or  member  of  the  human  family.  Otherwise  the  cat  is  of 
a  cowardly  disposition  and  will  seldom  attack  anything  out  of 
the  ordinary  run.  He  much  prefers  dense  timber  where  his  food 
is  more  easily  obtained.  His  meals  consist  chiefly  of  birds, 
rabbits,  mice,  rats,  weasels,  squirrels,  muskrats  and  occasionally 
his  nocturnal  habits  bring  him  to  the  barnyard  in  quest  of 


60  Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


chickens,  geese  and  ducks ;  nor  will  he  object  to  carrying  away 
a  small  suckling  pig  or  small  lamb. 

Their  home  is  made  either  in  a  hollow  tree,  in  some  cliff 
under  rocks,  or  other  obscure  locality,  where  they  are  entirely  or 
partly  protected  from  the  elements.  The  mother  brings  forth 
a  litter  of  four  to  seven  young,  which  she  protects  and  nourishes 
until  they  are  able  to  procure  their  own  food.  The  playful  dis- 
position of  the  kittens  resembles  that  of  the  domestic  cat  family. 

The  animal's  lair  is  occasionally  20  to  30  feet  above  the 
ground  in  some  lofty  tree;  in  all  cases  the  abode  is  quite  com- 
fortable, being  padded  with  moss,  dried  leaves,  etc.,  and  especially 
is  this  true  if  the  abode  or  lair  is  in  a  cavity  below  the  roots  of 
some  huge  tree.  The  animal  is  detrimental  and  a  nuisance,  and 
his  eradication  is  much  desired  on  the  part  of  hunters,  due  to 
his  large  consumption  of  wild  birds  and  game.  In  cat  fashion 
he  stealthily  steals,  winds,  crawls,  nearing  his  victim,  in  the 
most  noiseless  fashion  until  within  distance^  when  he  will  sudden- 
ly dart  out  or  pounce  upon  his  victim  from  some  elevation. 

THE  CANADA  LYNX. 

(Ger,  LuchSj  Lat.  Lynx  Borealis  or  Lynx  Canadenis.) 


CARNIVORANT  is  much  larger  than  the 
wild  cat.  Is  chiefly  found  in  Canada.  Was 
formerly  in  large  numbers  in  the  heavily- 
timbered  sections  of  the  northern  part  of 
this  country,  and  is  now  sparingly  found  in 
the  tier  of  states  extending  from  Maine  to 
Washington.  One  or  more  of  these  species 
are  found  in  nearly  every  country ;  has  been 


one  of  Europe's  most  hated  and  eagerly 
sought  after  in  the  animal  kingdom ;  is  now 
rarely  found  in  civilized  sections,  although  still  abounding  in 
Norway,  Sweden  and  Russia,  and  especially  in  Siberia  and  other 
northern  latitudes.  Its  peculiar  howls  during  the  night  cause 
great  uneasiness  to  the  unprotected  traveller  or  miner.  He  in- 
habits a  mountainous  section  and  is  rarely  found  in  the  open,  but 
principally  in  thickets,  dense  woods  and  forests,  and  always  away 
from  civilization. 

An  average  full-grown  Canadian  lynx  measures  from  nose  to 
tip  of  tail  35  to  40  inches.  The  latter  member  is  about  5  inches 
long,  and  the  animal  will  weigh  from  25  to  40  pounds.  Oc- 
casionally a  much  larger  and  heavier  animal  is  captured,  but  it 


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61 


is  safe  to  state  that  the  average  length  from  nose  to  root  of  tail 
is  30  to  35  inches.  The  largest  skin  coming  to  my  notice  during 
the  past  few  years,  measured  43  inches  from  nose  to  root  of  tail, 
and  the  latter  member,  including  the  black  furred  tip,  was  6ys 
inches  long.  The  estimated  weight  of  this  brute  was  certainly  in 
the  vicinity  of  50  pounds.  The  body  is  robust,  thick  and  heavy, 
and  apparently  the  animal  is  far  less  fleet  than  its  congener,  the 
bay  lynx.  The  thighs  are  extremely  long  and  the  legs  thick, 
massive  and  clumsy.  The  large  paws  are  also  massive,  the  toes 
thick  and  so  completely  concealed  by  the  fur  that  the  tracks 
made  in  the  snow  by  this  animal  are  indistinct.  The  ears  are 
somewhat  larger  than  those  of  the  wild  cat,  well  pointed  and 
furred  on  both  sides,  with  a  bunch  of  long,  soft,  black  pencil-like 
hairs  extending  from  the  extreme  portion  of  the  ear  from  to 
inches  in  length.  Naturalists  claim  that  this  bunch  of  hair 
acts  to  the  animal's  sense  of  hearing  as  do  the  long  hairs  on 
each  side  of  the  cat's  mouth  to  its  sense  of  smell.  The  tail,  w^hich 
is  5  to  6  inches  long,  is  covered  with  fur  resembling  that  of  the 
body,  excepting  that  at  the  end  a  heavy  plume-like  tip  of  a 
lustrous  black  color  is  very  prominent.  Peculiar  long  hairs,  of  a 
ruffious  formation,  often  called  whiskers,  grow  on  each  side  of 
the  neck  just  below  the  ears  and  terminate  underneath  the  throat. 

The  animal's  pelage  during  the  winter  months  is  of  a  rich, 
soft,  mellow  character,  varying  in  color  from  a  light  brown  to  a 
silver  grey.  The  belly  portion  is  of  a  whitish  nature  and  the 
fur  one-fourth  to  one-half  inch  longer  as  compared  with  that  of 
the  back ;  the  latter  is  one  and  one-fourth  to  one  and  three-fourths 
inches  in  length,  and  always  of  darker  color.  The  black  furred 
spots  that  are  so  conspicuous  on  the  belly  portion  of  the  wild 
cat,  are  entirely  absent  in  the  lynx.  The  skin  has  become  very 
valuable  during  the  past  years,  and  consequently  the  animal  is 
eagerly  sought  after  by  the  hunter  and  trapper  and  is  becoming 
scarcer  every  year.  Most  skins  that  are  received  find  their  way 
to  the  market  from  Canada,  and  from  the  northwestern  states, 
from  Michigan  to  Washington.  The  Hudson  Bay  Co.  probabl) 
market  as  many  lynx  skins  as  all  others  combined.  The  skins  are 
used  largely  in  the  manufacture  of  ladies'  wearing  apparel,  such 
as  boas,  scarfs,  and  for  trimming  purposes. 

Habits  ^^^^  \ynx  possesses  carnivorous  and  nocturnal  habits 
and  his  clumsy  construction  seems  of  no  apparent 
detriment  to  his  swiftness  and  precision  on  foot,  also  when  in  the 
trees.  He  is  an  excellent  climber  and  frequently  pounces  from 
a  cliff  or  tree  upon  his  prey,  while  at  other  times  he  will  follow 
stealthily  until  within  springing  distance  and  surprise  the  victim 
by.  pouncing  upon  him.    He  is  sometimes  seen  in  the  loftiest  of 


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63 


trees  in  search  of  birds  or  in  the  chase  of  small  quadrupeds.  He  is 
known  to  cross  rivers  in  his  chase  of  animals,  also  when  pur- 
sued by  the  hunter.  The  animal  is  a  night  prowler  and  is  seldom 
seen  during  the  day,  which  time  he  generally  spends  in  a  semi- 
sound  slumber.  The  lynx  is  more  retired  in  his  habits  than  our 
common  wild  cat  and  keeps  away  from  habitation,  being  usually 
found  in  the  depth  of  the  wilderness.  He  confines  himself  strict- 
ly to  a  meat  diet,  probably  more  so  than  any  other  carnivorant. 
In  this  respect  he  is  fastidious,  preferring  fresh  meat  to  that  of 
stale  or  putrid.  He  has  no  particular  love  for  fish,  yet  is  known 
to  devour  them ;  but  whether  the  brute  is  able  to  capture  them 
in  the  water  is  unknown  to  us.  When  alarmed  or  pursued,  he 
leaps,  or  bounds,  rapidly,  almost  in  a  straight  line,  from  danger, 
and  if  hard  pressed  he  readily  takes  to  a  tree.  He  is  able  to  leap 
from  a  considerable  height  to  the  ground  without  feeling  the 
jar,  alighting  as  he  does  on  all  four  feet,  and  instantly  de^ 
parting,  beginning  the  battle  if  dogs  attempt  to  stop  him.  That 
the  animal  is  able  to  capture  a  young  deer,  is  not  disputed,  but 
to  do  this  he  must  have  a  favorable  location  so  that  he  can  pounce 
upon  the  victim's  neck.  He  will  often  follow  the  trail  of  cattle, 
deer,  moose,  bear  and  even  that  of  the  hunter  or  trapper.  He  h 
known  to  disturb  traps  set  for  mink,  marten  and  other  animals  and 
at  other  times  (probably  from  experience),  refuses  to  touch  or 
go  near  a  setting,  but  rather  crouches  down  or  elevates  himself 
to  some  lofty  position,  where  he  awaits  the  anticipated  visitor 
to  the  trap,  upon  which  he  pounces.  A  half-breed,  who  has 
trapped  for  years  in  British  Columbia,  relates  an  experience 
probably  seldom  witnessed  by  man : 

While  inspecting  a  line  of  traps  set  for  mink,  marten,  and 
occasionally  one  for  a  fox,  he  came  across  a  partly  devoured 
rabbit  that  had  evidently  sprung  a  marten  trap  and  had  been 
found  by  a  lynx,  which  was  in  the  act  of  devouring  the  rabbit 
when  disturbed  by  the  approach  of  the  trapper.  Knowing  the 
habits  of  the  lynx,  and  feeling  assured  that  the  animal  would  re- 
turn to  finish  his  meal,  the  trapper  set  two  of  the  largest  steel  traps 
he  had  with  him,  ''No.  2^,''  about  the  remaining  portion  of  the 
rabbit,  and  departed  for  the  other  side  of  the  creek.  While  cross- 
ing the  creek,  he  noticed,  at  a  distance,  two  wolves  evidently  fol- 
lowing his  trail.  He  felt  somewhat  aggrieved  at  not  having  at- 
tached the  chains  to  a  drag  to  detain  the  wolves  in  case  one  or 
both  should  spring  the  traps.  Apparently  the  lynx  was  in  the 
neighborhood  all  this  time,  as  only  fifteen  minutes  expired  before 
Mr.  Lynx  came  back  to  the  rabbit.  He  sniflfed  around  and  acted 
as  if  something  was  wrong.  Apparently  he  was  desirous  of 
finishing  his  meal,  but  was  afraid  to  approach  too  close,  He 


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65 


crouched  and  lay  motionless  on  his  belly,  then  he  would  ascend 
near-by  trees,  only  to  leap  at  once  to  the  ground,  acting  in  a  very 
frenzied  manner,  indicating  to  the  observing  trapper  that  he 
wanted  the  rabbit  very  badly  and  was  endeavoring  to  discover 
some  way  of  obtaining  it  without  delay,  and  without  being  obliged 
to  venture  too  close  to  the  spot  where  it  lay.  After  the  lapse  of 
nearly  ten  minutes,  he  suddenly  leaped  from  a  tree,  ran  to  the 
place  where  he  had  left  the  rabbit  half  an  hour  before,  grabbed 
it,  and  turned  about  and  off  he  went.  But,  alas !  His  forefoot 
sprung  one  of  the  traps.  He  yelped,  dropped  the  rabbit  from  his 
mouth,  took  hold  of  the  chain,  and  twisted  it  and  whined.  His 
hasty  action,  disregarding  his  usual  trait  of  caution  and  alertness, 
was  prompted  by  his  eagerness  to  obtain  the  food  that  he  thought 
belonged  to  him,  rather  than  to  let  the  approaching  wolf  have  it. 
Having  viewed  all  this  from  a  tree,  the  trapper  slowly  descended, 
crossed  the  creek  and  taking  his  rifle,  first  killed  one  of  the  wolves 
and  then  the  lynx.  The  bodies  were  skinned  and  about  t1  cm  three 
Newhouse  traps  were  set;  the  next  day  a  wolf  (proi^ably  the 
other)  had  sprung  the  trap,  and  a  rifle  ball  ended  his  misery. 


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THE  MOUNTAIN  LION. 

(Puma,  Cougar,  Am.  Panther,  Catamount,) 

ANIMAL,  known  under  the  various  names 
above,  also  American  Tiger,  is  found  prin- 
cipally in  the  western  part  of  the  United  States 
along  the  Rocky  Mountains  from  Mexico  to 
Klondike  in  Alaska ;  also  along  the  Sierra  Ne- 
vadas  and  Cascade  Mountains  and  probably  in 
other  portions  of  Canada,  especially  in  the 
mountainous  regions  of  Athabasca.  The  illus- 
tration accompanying  this  article  indicates  that 
the  brute  is  59  inches  from  nose  to  root  of  tail,  the  latter  33  inches 
long,  and  he  stands  28  inches  high  from  the  ground  to  top  of 
front  shoulder.  The  animal  possesses  a  uniform  color,  the  south- 
ern species  being  of  a  few  shades  lighter  than  that  of  the  northern, 
the  latter  being  of  a  beautiful  tan  or  golden  brown  color.  The 
fur  on  the  southern  species  is  rather  short  and  harsh,  and  evenly 
distributed  about  the  body  and  tail.  In  color  the  belly  portion  is 
always  a  few  shades  lighter.  The  animal  has  a  white  furred  spot 
below  the  eyes,  and  quite  often  the  fur  on  the  neck  and  chest  is  of 
a  whitish  color.  The  fur  of  the  northern  species  is  about  one 
inch  long,  not  quite  so  harsh,  but  by  no  means  soft  or  silky,  and 
as  aforesaid,  of  a  golden  brown  color.  Individual  skins  coming 
from  the  Klondike  regions  measure  nearly  six  feet  from  nose  to 
root  of  tail,  and  the  latter  is  36  inches  long;  but  this  skin  was 
probably  from  an  unusually  large  brute.  The  animal  is  eagerly 
hunted  but  is  far  from  being  exterminated.  Undoubtedly  it  is 
great  sport  to  bring  this  monstrous  brute  to  bay.  Mr.  Theodore 
Roosevelt,  now  President  of  the  United  States,  has  kilkd  many 
of  these  lions  in  the  mountains  of  Colorado.  There  is  no  great 
danger  in  hunting  this  brute  if  one  is  cautious,  but  no  one  should 
attempt  it  unless  he  is  a  good  shot,  for  if  cornered  or  wounded 
the  brute  it  likely  to  revert  the  tables.  The  animal  is  armed  with 
sharp  teeth,  long  and  heavy  claws,  and  his  sneaking  and  pouncing 
attitude  is  only  too  well  known. 

The  animal  possesses  carnivorous,  nocturnal  habits,  and  be- 
ing of  a  bloodthirsty  disposition,  he  awaits  the  coming  of  game 
from  the  trees,  ridges,  or  upon  some  cliff,  from  which  points 
he  is  able  to  pounce  upon  the  victim.  Their  peculiar  howls  are 
distinguished  from  other  animals  and  their  lion-like  roar  sends 
chills  through  the  inexperienced  hunter  or  miner.  Regardless  of 
his  bloodthirsty  and  ferocious  nature,  the  animal  will  give  wide 


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range  to  man,  and  even  if  wounded  he  will  seek  to  escape,  but 
if  closely  pursued  has  been  known  to  pounce  upon  the  hunter, 
and  if  taken  unawares,  the  latter  is  doomed.  They  are  good 
climbers  and  readily  take  to  trees  when  pursued  by  dogs,  from 
which  position,  the  hunter,  if  a  good  shot,  can  bring  the  brut^ 
lifeless  to  the  earth. 

His  food  consists  chiefly  of  animals,  both  domestic  and  wild, 
and  very  few  of  the  small  mammals  are  excepted  by  him ;  all 
fall  prey  to  this  monster.  He  is  able  to  carry  away  sheep,  young 
calves  and  has  been  known  to  kill  heifers,  also  colts.  That  a 
large  number  of  deer  fall  prey  to  this  monster,  cannot  be  denied. 


Photographed  Springtime       YOUNG  MOUNTAIN  LION  Courtesy  of 

Along  N.  P.  Ry.  in  Mont.  N.  P.  Ry.  Co. 

When  the  lion  has  seized  a  victim,  he  tears  open  its  neck  and 
laps  the  blood  before  he  begins  to  eat.  Small  animals  are  de- 
voured entirely,  but  the  larger  ones  he  eats  only  in  parts,  usually 
the  neck  and  shoulders.  The  other  parts  are  sometimes  covered 
up  with  leaves,  branches,  grass,  etc.  His  sense  of  smelling  and 
of  hearing  is  acute.  His  skin  is  used  chiefly  for  rug,  robe  or 
mounting  purposes,  and  unless  head,  feet  and  tail  are  perfect  and 
attached,  the  skin  becomes  undesirable.  Any  hunter  who  is 
fortunate  in  bringing  down  this  monster  and  desires  the  skin 
mounted  should  not  fail  to  obtain  the  skull  and  leg  bones. 


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THE  JAGTJAE. 

(Ger.  UnzCy  Lat.  Felix  Onza.) 

HAT  is  true  relative  to  ferocity,  habits,  etc., 
of  the  Puma,  is  also  true  of  this  animal, 
the  largest  of  the  cat  species  found  on 
this  continent.  Although  its  home  is 
chiefly  in  South  America,  it  was  formerly 
found  in  large  numbers  in  the  southern 
states,  especially  in  Louisiana  and  Texas, 
and  it  is  still  numerous  in  Mexico.  It  is 
safe  to  say  that  this  cat  has  been  driven 
away  or  captured,  and  that  very  few,  if 
any,  exist  at  the  present  time  in  the  United  States. 

A  full-grown  jaguar  will  measure  55  to  60  inches  from  nose 
to  root  of  tail,  the  latter  being  25  to  30  inches  in  length.  The 
fur  is  soft  and  spotted  similarly  to  that  of  the  leopard,  although 
the  coat  of  the  animal  varies  considerable  in  color,  from  a  light 
brown  and  reddish  hue  to  a  dark,  almost  black  appearance,  all 
having  peculiar  spots  upon  the  body  and  portions  of  the  tail.  The 
end  of  the  tail  however,  possesses  a  dark  plume-like  tip  followed 
by  seven  or  eight  ring  formations  similar  to  that  of  the  raccoon, 
alternating  black  and  brown  and  corresponding  in  color  with 
that  of  the  body. 

Its  favorite  haunts  are  in  swamps  and  jungles,  bordering 
close  to  sections  of  timber  and  dense  brush,  and  it  is  a  frequent 
visitor  in  pastures,  often  lying  concealed  for  hours  near  a  path  or 
trail  where  cattle,  horses,  mules  or  wild  beasts  are  known  to 
travel.  He  becomes  master  in  a  remarkably  short  period,  rarely 
exceeding  fifteen  minutes,  of  the  largest  steer,  cow  or  mule,  and 
it  is  safe  to  say  that  whenever  his  teeth  and  sharp  claws  are  im- 
bedded in  the  animal's  back  and  neck  the  monster  has  the  prey 
at  his  mercy  and  every  effort  and  the  strength  of  the  victim  to 
remove  the  jaguar  is  of  little  avail.  Small  animals  are  downed 
with  one  of  his  paws — the  animal  possessing  unusual  and 
enormous  strength — and  often  his  victim  is  torn  asunder  by  one 
stroke.  ^^.^r-  ^\^\ 

The  jaguar  will  follow  animals  into  the  water,  but  seldom 
climbs  trees  after  animals  or  birds,  though  is  able  to  climb  and 
remain  on  trees  and  their  branches  for  an  indefinite  period.  Is 
known  to  swim  a  long  distance  and  to  go  on  board  of  anchored 
boats  seeking  food.  Brehm  relates  having  seen  a  jaguar  near 
a  stream  in  a  crouching  position  looking  into  the  water  and  suc- 
ceeding in  catching  fish  by  a  sudden  movement  of  the  paw, 


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similar  to  our  domestic  or  other  species  of  the  cat  family,  in  that 
respect. 

Rengger  relates  that  the  male,  also  the  female,  jaguar  live 
alone  during  the  greater  portion  of  the  year,  and  only  during 
the  months  of  August  and  September  do  the  two  sexes  seek  each 
other's  companionship.  A  litter  of  two  or  three  cubs  is  brought 
fourth  in  the  den  or  pit,  the  latter  being  protected  from  the  sun  or 
rain  to  a  greater  or  less  extent,  generally  in  a  thicket  or  forest. 


Drawn  by  ROCKY  MOUNTAIN  COUGAR  Courtesy  of  N.  P.  Ry. 

Earnest  Thompson  Seton  (For  illustration  of  Jaguar  see  page  8) 

The  skins  are  used  largely  for  rug  purposes  and  have  little 
or  no  value  unless  the  head,  claws  and  tail  are  perfect.  Many 
mounted  specimens  can  be  seen  in  this  country,  also  in  Europe. 
Prominent  southern  planters  and  hunters  possess  skins  as  well 
as  mounted  specimens,  the  former  made  into  rugs,  the  latter 
decorate  their  dining  rooms  or  libraries. 


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71 


THE  WOLF. 

The  Timber,  The  Brush  or  Buffalo,  The  Prairie  or  Coyote, 
The  Black,  The  White,  The  Texas. 

......    ...  .... 

HIS  animal  is  found  in  nearly  all  sections  of^ 
the  globe.  Particularly  so  in  North  Amer- 
ica, Asia  and  certain  parts  of  Europe.  Al- 
though varying  in  size,  color,  and  apparent- 
ly of  different  species,  they  all  belong  to 
the  dog  family,  but  we  shall  confine  our- 
selves to  the  species  that  are  known  in  this  country. 

There  are  very  few  farmers  in  the  western  states  that  have  not 
at  one  time  or  another  come  in  contact  with  one  of  these  brutes. 
What  the  fox  is  to  the  poultry  yard,  the  wolf,  especially  the  larger 
species,  is  to  sheep  and  calves.  The  wolf,  like  all  other  animals, 
fears  man,  but  when  in  large  numbers,  especially  if  man  is  fear- 
some and  the  wolves  hungry,  the  latter  are  rather  aggravating, 
and  at  times  victor  over  man  himself. 

The  Timber  Wolf. 

A  hunter  in  giving  chase,  or  in  his  attempt  to  capture  this 
brute,  which  like  all  others  of  its  species  belong  to  the  dog  family, 
has  to  contend  with  an  animal  of  almost  human  intelligence. 
Few,  if  any,  have  superior  sagacity  and  the  art  of  dodging,  and 
are  at  th^  same  time  more  dangerous  if  cornered,  than  this  car- 
nivorant.  He  is  large,  robust,  periodically  lean,  swift  of  foot, 
and  has  highly  developed  sense  of  smell,  hearing  and  sight.  His 
appetite  is  almost  constant,  and  not  of  a  fastidious  order.  Single- 
handed  he  is  a  coward,  but  his  appetite  may  revert  to  his  fero- 
cious nature  at  any  opportune  moment. 

He  is  found  in  northern,  western  and  northwestern  states, 
also  in  Canada.  He  must  not  be  confused  with  the  smaller  order 
elsewhere  described  under  brush  or  buffalo,  neither  with  the 
still  smaller  variety  of  prairie  or  coyote.  Is  also  known  under 
the  name  of  giant  wolf  and  grey  wolf.  The  pelage  of  the  north- 
ern variety  during  the  winter  is  of  a  whitish  to  a  greyish  color, 
with  one  or  two  indistinct  dorsal  lines  of  black  tipped  hairs  on 
the  animal's  back,  extending  from  its  neck  to  the  tail.  The  fur 
part  on  the  belly  is  of  a  dull,  white  color,  and  its  legs  are  covered 
with  a  short  fur  ranging  from  a  whitish  to  a  slight  yellowish  cast. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


The  latter  color  is  almost  absent  on  the  northern  species  and  be- 
comes more  distinct  the  farther  south  we  go.  The  fur  in  general 
is  coarse,  and  apparently  the  older  and  larger  the  animal,  the 
coarser  its  fur.  Such  skins  have  a  shaggy  appearance,  are  of 
small  value,  and  their  use  is  confined  to  the  making  of  rugs,  robes, 
sleeping  bags,  etc. 

^  Recently  there  was  shipped  to  us  from  Canada  what  was  con- 
sidered by  the  shipper  and  his  friends,  to  be  a  good  speciman  of 
a  large  timber  wolf.  The  animal  was  killed  by  a  Mr.  Johnson  in 
the  vicinity  of  Galgary  and  shipped  in  a  frozen  state,  reaching  us 
in  a  well-preserved  condition.  The  dimensions  are  judged  to  be 
as  follows  when  the  animal  was  alive : 

Length  from  root  of  tail  to  extremity  of  nose  63^^  inches 

Tail,  root  to  tip  18  inches 

Height  from  floor  to  top  of  shoulders  29^  inches 

Circumference  of  body  estimated  34  inches 

Skins  from  other  sections,  and  in  particular  one  from 
northern  Minnesota,  measured  56  inches  from  nose  to  root  of 
tail,  the  latter  measuring  i8j4  inches  over  all,  or  its  vertebra  15 
inches.  The  predominating  color  of  the  latter  was  steel  grey, 
intermingled  with  dorsal  of  black-tipped  hairs,  and  about  the  neck, 
shoulders  and  outer  portion  of  limbs,  a  yellowish  cast  was  notice- 
able. The  belly  portion  was  white.  The  body,  especially  round 
the  chest,  shoulders  and  the  top  portion  of  the  front  of  the  animal, 
was  more  densely  furred;  also  the  outer  guard  hairs  longer  as 
compared  with  the  pelage  on  the  other  part  of  the  body.  The 
interspersed  black-tipped  guard  hairs  that  appeared  so  noticeably 
on  the  animal's  back,  especially  about  the  shoulders,  terminated 
only  near  the  tip  of  the  tail. 

The  Brush  Wolf. 

This  is  also  a  northern  species,  somewhat  smaller  than  the 
timber  or  grey  wolf.  Naturalists  very  often  class  this  northern 
animal  with  the  timber  or  grey  variety,  but  in  doing  so  they 
largely  rely  upon  the  exploits  of  the  early  explorers  who  failed  to 
note  the  distinction,  and  those  who  did  were  impressed  with  the 
close  similarity  of  the  color  of  its  pelage,  construction  and  habits, 
and  noted  the  comparative  difiference  in  size,  but  they  inadvertent- 
ly labored  under  the  impression  that  they  had  a  young  grey  wolf 
before  them. 

This  animal  is  found  in  northern  sections,  usually  about  tim- 
ber, along  the  bank  of  creeks,  rivers  and  lakes ;  his  favorite  haunt 
is  in  brush,  thickets,  interpersed  with  open  sections.  He  period- 
ically inhabits  prairie  states,  and  of  late  years  numerous  skins 


74  Andersch  Bros/  Suniers  and  Trappers  Guide. 


have  been  received  from  the  bordering  states  and  particularly 
so  from  Canada.  In  size  he  is  about  one-half  between  that  of  the 
small  prairie  and  the  big  timber  species.  The  male  is  about  one- 
fifth  to  one-fourth  larger  than  the  female.  The  former  attains 
a  weight  of  60  to  80  lbs.  One  fair-sized  specimen  that  came  to 
my  notice,  and  which  was  killed  in  northern  Wisconsin  by  being 
poisoned,  weighed  71  pounds.  As  noted  elsewhere,  its  pelage  re- 
sembles that  of  the  big  timber  wolf,  but  instead  of  its  coat  be- 
ing coarse  and  shaggy,  the  fur  on  this  one  was  unusually  soft 
and  dense.  It  does  not  compare  in  texture  with  that  of  the  red 
fox.  The  predominating  color  ranged  from  a  dirty  white  to  a 
light  grey,  with  a  yellowish  cast  about  the  legs  and  hips,  also 
with  black  outer  hairs  indiscriminately  interspersed  on  its  back. 


Caught  in  a  THE  BRUSH  WOLF  Courtesy  Outdoor  I.ife 

No.  3  Steel  Trap  Cenvey,  Col. 


The  skin  of  the  animal  during  the  winter  time,  if  not  otherwise 
damaged,  is  suitable  for  various  purposes,  and  of  late  years  the 
manufacturer  has  purchased  the  better  grade  of  such  skins,  which 
are  converted  into  the  spurious  tails  so  extensively  used  by  the 
furrier  in  the  making  of  ladies'  neckwear,  boas,  etc. 

The  Black  Wolf . 

This  dusky  brute  is  now  sparingly  found  on  this  hemisphere. 
Audubon  and  Bachman  and  other  prominent  naturalists  claim 
that  the  black  wolf,  40  to  60  years  ago,  was  numerous  in  the 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


75 


southern  states  and  in  fact  all  over  the  United  States.  But  what 
was  true  then  is  certainly  not  true  today.  The  black  wolf  is 
no  means  extinct  in  this  hemisphere,  but  is  exceedingly  scarce, 
and  probably  extinct  in  most  states.  During  the  last  15  years, 
no  less  than  100,000  wolf  skins  of  the  various  species  came  to 
my  notice,  and  out  of  this  number  no  more  than  twelve  or  fifteen 
were  of  the  black  variety. 

The  animal  seldom  attains  a  greater  size  than  that  of  the 
brush  wolf,  although  a  larger  specimen  came  to  my  notice  two 
years  ago.  The  animal  from  which  the  skin  was  taken  must  have 
weighed  85  to  90  pounds  and  resembled  the  timber  variety  more 
than  the  other  species.  Its  pelage  is  comparatively  finer  than  that 
of  the  timber  or  brush  variety,  being  soft  and  mellow,  also  denser. 


THE  END    OF  A  COYOTE  HUNT 

As  its  name  signifies,  the  color  of  its  pelt  is  black  with  steel  grey 
hairs  promiscuously  interspersed  with  the  large,  lustrous  guard 
hairs  that  bring  the  beauty  to  the  skin.  The  fur  is  not  kinky, 
curly  or  wavy,  but  the  fibers  are  straight,  smooth  and  of  a  mellow 
character.  At  times  a  white  spot  is  noticed  on  the  animal's  chest, 
and  again  on  the  animal's  tail.  The  black  wolf  resembles  so 
closely  a  large,  straight-furred  black  dog,  that  if  the  animal  was 
tame  and  would  follow  a  person  in  the  street,  he  would  pass  un- 
noticed, unless  for  his  remarkable  size  and  beauty. 

The  following  extracts  from  Audubon  are  interesting: 
*'About  70  or  80  years  ago  two  young  negroes  residing  near 
the  banks  of  the  Ohio  in  the  lower  part  of  Kentucky,  habitually 


76 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


visited  their  sweethearts  who  were  employed  on  a  plantation  some 
four  miles  distant.  As  to  the  lover  every  moment  is  precious, 
they  usually  took  the  shortest  route  which  led  through  the  cane 
brake.  Winter  had  set  in  and  the  night  was  cold,  dark  and 
gloomy,  when  these  two  negroes,  each  with  an  axe  on  his 
shoulder,  walked  briskly  along  the  narrow  path,  each  having  in 
mind  only  the  damsel  of  his  choice.  Some  transient  glimpses  of 
light  now  and  then  met  their  eyes  in  the  more  open  spaces  between 
the  trees,  or  when  the  heavy  drifting  clouds,  parting  at  times, 
allowed  a  star  to  peep  forth  upon  the  desolate  scene.  Fearfully 
a  long  and  frightful  howl  burst  upon  them,  and  they  were  in- 
stantly aware  that  it  proceeded  from  a  troop  of  hungry  and  per- 
haps desperate  wolves.  Pausing  for  a  moment,  a  dismal  silence 
succeeded.  All  was  dark  save  a  short  space  of  the  snow-covered 
ground  before  them.  Resuming  their  pace  hastily,  but  with  axes 
in  their  hands  prepared  for  the  attack,  suddenly  the  foremost  man 
was  assailed  by  several  wolves  which  seized  on  him,  and  inflicted 
terrible  wounds  with  their  fangs  on  his  legs  and  arms,  and  as 
they  were  followed  by  many  others  as  ravenous  as  themselves, 
several  sprang  at  the  breast  of  his  companion,  and  dragged  him 
to  the  ground.  Both  struggled  manfully  against  their  foes,  but 
in  a  few  moments  one  of  the  negroes  had  ceased  to  move.  The 
other  reduced  in  strength  threw  down  his  axe  and  sprang  onto 
the  branch  of  a  tree  and  gained  a  place  of  safety  among  the 
boughs.  Here  he  passed  a  miserable  night ;  next  morning  the  bones 
of  his  friend  lay  scattered  around  on  the  snow  which  was  stained 
with  blood.  Three  dead  w^olves  lay  near,  but  the  rest  of  the  pack 
had  disappeared.'' 

Superstition  prevailed,  not  only  in  the  southern  states,  but 
also  continues  among  certain  Indians  and  others  in  Canada  as  to 
killing  this  niggardly  brute.  A  certain  trapper  and  Indian  trader 
informed  me  some  years  ago  that  this  black  brute  is  shunned  by 
the  white  man  as  well  as  the  Indian,  that  all  believe  that  the 
fortunes  of  the  individuals  are  affected  by  the  killing  of  a  black 
wolf. 

The  White  Wolf. 

In  former  years  the  white  wolf  was  found  to  be  quite  numer^ 
ous  in  Montana,  Idaho,  Washington,  Wyoming  and  Oregon,  but 
of  recent  years  has  become  almost  extinct,  at  least  such  are  the 
reports  from  that  section,  which  are  confirmed  by  the  exceedingly 
small  number  of  white  wolf  skins  received  in  this  and  other  prin- 
cipal markets  of  the  United  States.  They  are  still  quite  numerous 
in  Alaska  and  British  North  America. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Quia-'.  77 


The  skins  are  of  no  great  value,  being  that  the  pelage  is 
coarse,  shaggy,  and  quite  often  the  fur  is  of  a  yellowish  cast, 
at  other  times  interspersed  with  grey  outer  hairs  which  reduce 
the  value  of  the  skin,  from  the  manufacturer's  standpoint.  The 
brute  in  size  resembles  more  the  buffalo  or  brush  wolf  than  it 
does  the  big  timber  variety.  Trappers  observed,  and  Indians 
labored  under  the  impression  that  a, white  furred  wolf  is  a  freak 
of  nature,  but  their  theory  is  apparently  incorrect.  Audubon 
says  that  the  white  pelage  is  the  result  of  severe  cold.  Regnard 
informs  us  that  in  Lapland,  wolves  are  almost  all  of  whitish  grty 
color  ;  there  are  some  of  them  white.  In  Siberia  wolves  assume 
the  same  color.  The  Alps,  on  the  other  hand,  by  their  relation 
may  be  compared  to  the  region  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  in 
America.  In  both  countries  the  wolves  become  white.  When 
Audubon  compared  specimens  from  the  northern  states  with 
those  of  tlie  Alpine  regions,  he  found  that  both  bore  strong 
resemblance  to  each  other  in  form,  size,  color  of  their  pelage, 
and  labored  under  the  impression  that  there  is  no  good  reason 
why  the  older  school  of  naturalists  found  distinctive  character 
and  separated  the  wolves  into  different  species.  Certain  tribes 
of  Indians  were  opposed  to  killing  the  white  wolf,  believing 
as  they  did  that  by  so  doing  they  would  incur  the  ill-will  of 
their  gods,  etc. 

The  Prairie  Wolf  or  Coyote. 

This  brute  is  known  the  world  over  and  resembles  the  Euro- 
pean more  than  any  of  the  other  species.  In  the  size  and  color 
of  its  pelage  notable  differences  are  to  be  recorded  as  between 
the  animals  inhabiting  the  northern  states  as  compared  with 
those  of  Texas  or  other  southern  range  states.  The  former  has  a 
darker  colored  fur,  and  the  yellowish  cast  is  less  prominent. 
The  coat  of  the  latter  is  coarse,  short,  somewhat  light  grey  on  the 
back  and  its  yellowish  cast  predominates  all  over  the  body 
excepting  the  back. 

Dr.  Coues  describes  the  prairie  or  barking  wolf  (Canis  la- 
trans)  as  by  far  the  most  abundant  carnivorous  animal  in  the 
western  states  and  the  coyote  is  commonly  known  as  a  thorough 
nuisance.    The  following  words  are  borrowed  from  his  works : 

''The  coyote  theoretically  compels  a  certain  degree  of  ad- 
miration, viewing  his  irrepressible  positivity  of  character  and  his 
versatile  nature.  If  his  genius  has  nothing  essentially  noble  or 
lofty  about  it,  it  is  undeniable  that  few  animals  possess  so  many 
and  so  various  attributes,  or  act  them  out  with  such  dogged 
perseverance.    Ever  on  the  alert,  and  keenly  alive  to  a  sense 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


79 


of  danger,  he  yet  exhibits  the  coolest  effrontery  when  his  path 
crosses  ours.  The  main  object  of  his  Hfe  seems  to  be  the  satis- 
fying of  a  hunger  that  is  always  craving ;  and  to  this  aim  all  his 
cunning  impudence  and  audacity  are  mainly  directed. 

''Much  has  been  written  concerning  the  famous  polygloi 
serenades  of  the  coyote,  by  those  who  have  been  unwilling 
listeners,  but  it  is  difficult  to  convey  an  adequate  idea  in  words 
of  the  noisy  confusion.  One  must  have  spent  an  hour  or  two 
vainly  trying  to  sleep  before  he  is  in  a  condition  to  appreciate  the 
full  force  of  the  annoyance.  It  is  a  singular  fact  that  tne  nowi- 
ing  of  two  or  three  wolves  gives  an  impression  that  a  score  are 
engaged,  so  many,  so  long-drawn  are  the  notes,  and  so  unin- 
terruptedly are  they  continued  by  one  individual  after  another, 
A  short,  sharp  bark  is  sounded,  followed  by  several  more  in 
quick  succession,  the  time  growing  faster  and  the  pitch  higher, 
till  they  run  together  in  a  long-drawn,  lugubrious  howl  in  the 
highest  possible  key.  The  same  strain  is  taken  up  again  and 
again  by  different  members  of  the  pack,  while  from  a  greater 
distance  the  deep  melancholy  baying  of  the  more  wary  lobo 
breaks  in,  to  add  to  the  discord,  till  the  very  leaves  on  the  trees 
seem  to  be  quivering  to  the  inharmonious  sounds.  It  is  not 
true,  as  asserted  by  some,  that  the  coyote  howls  only  just  after 
dark  and  at  daylight.  Though  they  may  be  noisiest  at  these 
times,  when  the  pack  is  gathering  together  for  a  night's  for- 
aging, or  dispersing  again  to  their  diurnal  retreats,  I  know 
that  they  give  tongue  at  any  time  during  the  night.  They  are 
rarely,  if  ever,  heard  in  the  daytime,  though  frequently  to  be 
seen,  at  least  in  secluded  regions.  Ordinarily  however,  they 
spend  the  day  in  quiet,  out-of-the-way  places,  among  rocks,  in 
thick  copses,  etc.,  and  seek  their  prey  mainly  at  night,  collecting 
for  this  purpose  into  packs,  as  already  noticed. 

''The  coyote,  although  a  carnivore,  is  a  very  indiscriminate 
feeder,  and  nothing  seems  to  come  amiss  which  is  capable  of 
being  chewed  and  swallowed.  From  the  nature  of  the  region 
which  it  inhabits,  it  is  often  hard-pressed  for  food,  particularly 
in  the  winter  season.  Besides  such  live  game  as  it  can  surprise 
and  kill,  or  overpower  by  persevering  pursuit,  and  force  of 
numbers,  it  feeds  greedily  upon  all  sorts  of  dead  animal  matter. 
To  procure  this,  it  resorts  in  great  numbers  to  the  vicinity  of 
settlements,  where  offal  is  sure  to  be  found,  and  surrounds  the 
hunter's  camp  at  night.  It  is  well-known  to  follow  for  days  in  the 
trail  of  a  traveling-party,  and  each  morning  just  after  camp  is 
broken,  it  rushes  in  to  claim  whatever  eatable  refuse  may  have 
been  left  behind.  But  it  cannot  always  find  a  sufficiency  of  animal 
food,  and  is  thus  made  frugiferous  and  herbivorous.  Particularly 


80 


Andersch  Bros/  Huniers  and  Trappers  Guide. 


in  the  fall,  it  feeds  extensively  upon  'tunas/  which  are  the  juicy, 
soft,  scarlet  fruit  of  various  species  of  prickly  pear  (Opuntia)  ; 
and  in  the  winter  upon  berries  of  various  sorts,  particularly 
those  of  the  juniper  (Juniperus  pachyderma),  and  others. 

''Coyotes  are  so  annoying  that  a  variety  of  means  are  used  to 
destroy  them.  They  may  be  shot  of  course,  but  to  hunt  them  in 
the  daytime  is  uncertain  and  hardly  worth  the  trouble,  while 
night  shooting  is  still  more  laborious  and  unsatisfactory.  Their 
cunning,  inquiring  disposition  is  ordinarily  more  than  a  match 
for  man's  ingenuity  in  the  way  of  traps.  The  most  certain,  as 
well  as  the  easiest  methods  of  obtaining  them  is  by  poisoning  the 
carcass  of  a  dead  animal  or  butcher's  offal  with  strychnine. 
There  is  no  doubt,  also,  that  the  odor  of  asafoetida  is  attractive 
to  them,  and  a  little  of  this  drug  rubbed  into  the  poisoned  meat 
greatly  heightens  the  chances  of  their  eating  it.  Since,  after 
eating  the  poison,  they  suffer  greatly  from  thirst,  it  is  well  to 
place  a  tub  of  water  conveniently  at  hand,  which  generally  keeps 
them  from  making  off  for  water,  and  so  being  lost.  There  is 
considerable  difference  in  the  fur,  both  as  to  quality  and  color, 
according  to  the  season.  In  the  winter  it  is  fuller,  thicker  and 
softer  than  in  the  summer,  and  has  much  less  tawny  or  rufous 
about  it,  being  almost  black  and  grizzled,  grayish  white. 

''Except  under  certain  circumstances,  there  is  a  chronic  feud 
between  our  domestic  dogs  and  these  dog-wolves.  A  good-sized 
dog  will  easily  whip  a  coyote,  though  he  may  not  come  off  un- 
scathed from  the  sharp  teeth  and  quick  snaps  of  the  latter.  I 
have  known  a  smallish  terrier  even  to  kill  a  coyote,  of  which  he 
caught  a  throat-hold,  enabling  him  by  vigorous  shakes  to  beat 
the  wolf's  skull  against  some  boulders  between  which  the  conflict 
took  place.  Notwithstanding,  there  is  abundant  evidence  that 
the  coyote  will  cross,  and  bear  fertile  offspring  with  the  do- 
mestic dog;  and  I  believe  that  the  female  of  either  will  take  the 
male  of  the  other.  During  the  season  of  heat,  which  is  in  the 
spring,  I  have  known  dogs  to  disappear  for  several  days,  and 
return  in  such  a  dilapidated  condition  as  to  leave  no  doubt 
that  they  had  been  decoyed  away  by  some  female  coyote  and 
received  hard  treatment  from  her  or  her  relatives.  The  hybrid 
is  said  to  possess  the  bad  qualities  of  both  parents,  and  the 
good  ones  of  neither,  as  usual  with  bastards,  and  to  remain 
snappish  and  intractable,  in  spite  of  severity  or  kindness.  The 
gestation  of  the  species,  as  is  well-known,  does  not  differ  mater- 
ially from  that  of  its  allies.  It  brings  forth  in  May  or  June,  in 
secluded  places,  usually  under  or  among  rocks.  Five  or  six 
puppies  are  ordinarily  produced  at  a  birth. 

''A  variety  of  absurd  stories  regarding  its  re-production  pass 


 Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  81 

current  even  among  the  best-informed  backwoodsmen;  many 
affirming  that  the  pups  are  born  shapeless,  inchoate  masses,  to 
be  afterwards  Hcked  into  proper  shape  by  the  mother." 

The  mating  season  occurs  during  the  spring  months,  vary- 
ing somewhat  upon  the  altitude  and  cHmate.  After  60  to  65 
days  the  mother  bears  four  to  eight  young.  The  birthplace  is 
usually  in  a  hollow  log,  cave  or  burrow,  and  sometimes  in 
dense  brushes.  The  young  are  born  blind  and  remain  in  this 
state  for  a  period  of  twenty-one  days.  Their  growth  seems 
retarded  until  they  reach  the  age  of  forty-five  to  sixty  days,  when 
they  develop  by  astounding  degrees.  The  mother  attends  to  them 
carefully,  and  her  love  does  not  cease  until  late  in  the  fall  when 
the  young  drift  away  and  begin  life  upon  their  own  resources. 
In  their  playful  mood  they  resemble  the  actions  of  a  litter  of  pups. 
They  bark,  bite,  and  amuse  each  other  in  dog  fashion. 

The  average  age  of  the  prairie  wolf  or  coyote  is  from  eight  to 
twelve  years,  though  individuals  have  lived  as  long  as  fifteen  and 
twenty  years.  As  a  rule  the  large  northern  timber  wolf  attains  its 
enormous  size  only  after  three  years  and  continues,  and  probably 
not  earlier  than  10  years  does  his  age  begin  to  show  m  ms 
tactics,  and  shortly  thereafter  he  is  left  behind  if  he  finds  himself 
in  a  chase  with  younger  brutes. 

The  female  is  invariably  smaller  than  the  male,  and  her 
depredations  are  more  noticeable  during  the  season  when  with 
her  young.  At  times  she  takes  very  desperate  chances,  apparently 
disregarding  her  usual  cautiousness  in  her  endeavor  to  procure 
food  for  her  young. 


i  \ 


THE   FOX  FAMILY. 


The  Swift  or  Kitt  Fox,  The  Red  Fox,  The  Grey  Fox,  The  Cross, 
The  Silver  Grey,  The  Black  Fox,  The  White  or 
Arctic  Fox,  The  Blue  Fox. 


THE  RED  FOX. 

( Gcr.  Rot  Fnchs,  Lat.  Vtilpes  fidviis.) 


HE  American  red  fox  bears  close  resemblance  to 
the  European,  but  one  who  compares  the  two  to- 
gether will  readily  note  many  distinct  differences, 
notably  the  American  has  a  larger  body,  longer  and 
softer  fur,  and  finer  and  larger  tail,  and  the  value 
of  the  skin  is  much  greater  than  that  of  the  Euro- 
pean specimen.  They  all  belong  to  the  dog  or  wolf 
family. 

In  size  the  American  red  fox  varies  unusually  much  in  the 
different  sections;  so  does  its  color  and  length  of  fur,  and  the 
value  of  its  skin  diminishes ;  or  increases,  as  the  case  may  be. 
The  smallest  animal  is  found  in  the  eastern  states,  while  the 
largest  makes  its  home  in  northern  Minnesota,  Dakota,  in  Mani- 
toba, parts  of  Assiniboia,  Alberta  and  Saskatchewan.  The 
latter  are  not  only  larger  in  size,  but  the  fur  is  much  longer, 
finer,  and  in  color  usually  two  or  three  shades  lighter  than  that 
of  its  eastern  brethren. 

Probably  the  largest  and  best  furred  skins  come  from  the 
Turtle  Mountain  regions.  The  marked  variation  in  color  and 
quality  of  fur  on  the  red  fox  is  entirely  due  to  climatic  con- 
ditions. The  average  red  fox  will  measure  25  to  30  inches  in 
length,  and  its  tail,  which  is  bushy,  has  a  white  furred  tip. 
The  weight  of  a  northern  fox  is  from  25  to  35  pounds.  An 
eastern  fox  will  scarcely  weigh  more  than  20  to  25  pounds.  The 
color  of  its  pelage  ranges  from  a  deep  red  to  nearly  white,  with 
a  yellowish  tint.  Audubon's  description  of  the  animal,  is  as  fol- 
lows : 

'Toint  of  nose,  outer  extremity  of  ears,  and  outer  surfaces  of 
legs  below  the  knees,  black ;  forehead,  neck,  flanks,  and  back, 
bright  reddish,  and  a  little  deeper  tint  on  the  back  and  fore- 


o 


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9 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


85 


shoulders;  around  the  nostrils,  margins  of  the  upper  jaw,  and 
chin,  pure  white ;  throat,  breast  and  a  narrow  space  on  the  upper 
surface,  dingy  white;  extreme  end  of  brush  slightly  tipped  with 
white;  inner  surface  of  ears,  and  base  of  the  outer  surface, 
yellowish.  The  hair  on  body  is  of  two  sorts ;  long  hairs  inter- 
spersed among  a  dense  coat  of  softer,  brighter,  and  more 
yellowish  fur;  on  the  tail  the  longer  interspersed  hairs  are  more 
numerous,  and  many  of  them  are  quite  black,  giving  the  tail 
a  more  dusky  appearance  than  rest  of  the  body." 

Dimensions  red  fox  killed  in  central  Minnesota,  January,  1905. 


Length,  point  of  nose  to  root  of  tail  30  inches. 

Length  of  tail  (vertebrae)  15  inches. 

Length  of  tail  over  all  18^2  inches. 

Circumference  of  body  (fur  natural)  24  inches. 

Circumference  of  tail  (fur  natural)  15  inches. 

Height  at  shoulders  16  inches. 


Habits  Notwithstanding  the  great  diversity  in  the  color 
of  the  animal's  fur  and  other  differences  in  the  var- 
ious sections  of  the  United  States  and  Canada,  they  can  all  be 
safely  included  in  this  species  of  the  red  fox.  There  is  probably 
no  other  animal  that  is  as  daring,  more  cunning,  at  the  same 
time  always  on  the  alert,  quick  of  action  and  keen  of  smell,  as 
Mr.  Reynard. 

Being  carnivorous  and  possessing  nocturnal  habits,  he  becomes 
a  robber  of  the  first  magnitude.  Like  the  wolf,  when  the  ground 
is  covered  with  snow,  he  has  difficulty  in  obtaining  sufficient  food 
and  becomes  quite  desperate.  His  food  consists  of  rabbits,  mice, 
squirrels  and  other  small  quadrupeds.  He  certainly  does  not 
neglect  grouse,  chickens  and  other  birds.  The  fox  is  also 
known  to  frequent  ponds  and  rivers  in  search  of  fish  and  crabs, 
which  are  rapidly  devoured  with  greatest  appetite.  Owing  to 
their  fondness  for  eggs  and  poultry,  the  farmer's  barn-yard  and 
coops  are  often  frequented.  In  this  respect  he  is  known  to  be 
a  greater  robber  than  the  mink,  or  weasel,  and  probably  more 
harmful  than  the  two  just  mentioned,  or  the  wolf.  If  hunger 
is  severe  decomposed  meat,  fish  and  poultry  are  relished  by  him. 

Its  mode  ol  capturing  prey,  is  numerous,  and  due  to  his 
cunning,  extreme  fine  sense  of  smell  and  hearing,  is  able  to 
approach  and  capture  his  victim,  by  creeping  stealthily  within 
springing  distances,  and  like  a  cat,  spring  upon  it  unawares. 
Should  the  victim  be  a  small  animal,  such  as  the  mouse,  the 
fox  will  tantalize,  tease,  maltreat  and  handle  the  victim  in  a 
playish  mood,  similar  to  a  house  cat  handling  a  recently  cap- 
tured mouse. 


 Andersch  Bros/  Huniers  and  Trappers  Guide.  87 

The  mating  season  starts  in  the  early  spring,  and  after  an 
expiration  of  two  months,  the  female  brings  forth  a  litter  of 
from  four  to  ten  young,  which  are  born  blind.  The  mother 
remains  steadily  with  her  new-born  babes  two  or  three  days 
before  seeking  nourishment.  She  is  extremely  fond  of  her 
young,  and  protects  them  against  all  enemies.  Is  known  to 
carry  her  young  away  from  their  birthplace  upon  approach  oi 
danger.  The  den  is  generally  well  concealed,  usually  in  holes 
dug  in  the  earth,  or  in  rocks  and  sometimes  in  hollow  trees, 
at  other  times  the  birthplace  is  in  dens  made  by  other  animals, 
especially  the  badger,  with  whom  she  readily  attains  great 
friendship. 

In  about  25  to  35  days  the  young  will  begin  to  assume  grit 
and  expose  themselves  in  the  sun  and  play  in  a  frolicsome  mood, 
but  usually  the  mother  is  close  at  hand,  and  gives  her  young  the 
advice  and  protection  she  affords.  Later  on  the  mother  will 
take  the  young  for  a  short  stroll,  teaching  them  the  art  of 
thievery,  manner  of  preying,  and  when  they  become  five  to  six 
months  old,  she  leaves  them  to  shift  for  themselves. 

It  is  seldom  a  person  is  able  to  approach  a  fox  den,  but 
some  years  ago  while  in  Montana,  I  was  attracted  by  a  peculiar 
noise,  and  upon  investigation  found  six  to  eight  young,  evidently 
awaiting  the  return  of  their  mother.  It  is  pleasing  indeed  to 
watch  them  from  a  distance,  and  especially  when  their  mother 
appears  with  insufficient  food  for  them  all.  It  is  to  be  noted  that 
both  the  mother  and  father  provide  food  for  the  young,  espec- 
ially will  the  latter  attend  himself  to  the  wants  of  his  ofifspring 
in  severe  weather. 

The  fox  has  enemies  in  the  wolf  and  bear,  besides  man.  It 
has  not  come  under  my  observation  that  our  eagles  are  of  suffi- 
cient boldness  to  pounce  upon  a  red  fox^  much  less  their  ability 
to  lift  a  full  grown  fox  with  them  into  the  air.  The  following 
however,  is  interesting  and  undoubtedly  true. 

Mr.  Tschudie,  as  related  by  Brehm,  states  that  he  personally 
saw  a  large  eagle  grab  a  fox  and  fly  away ;  a  few  minutes  there- 
after, the  eagle  with  its  prey  descended  on  a  ridge,  and  for 
curiosity's  sake  was  followed  by  Mr.  Tschudie,  and,  much  to 
his  surprise,  on  his  approach  the  same  fox  ran  past  him,  and  on 
nearing  the  place  of  descent  found  the  eagle  bleeding  furiously 
and  unable  to  alight.  The  fox  had  evidently  turned  the  tables 
by  twisting,  while  in  the  air,  and  got  hold  of  the  eagle  by  the 
throat,  and  on  the  approach  of  Mr.  Tschudie  the  fox  was  dis- 
turbed from  devouring  its  former  antoganist. 


88 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


THE  GRAY  (GREY)  POX. 


(Vulpes  Virginimms,) 

HE  gray,  like  the  red  fox,  is  carnivorous, 
nocturnal,  more  shy  and  of  rather  a  cowardly 
disposition,  is  found  in  all  southern,  middle, 
western  and  Atlantic  states,  scarcely  seen  in 
the  northern  states  and  almost  unknown  in 
Canada.  Although  timid  and  suspicious  to  a 
greater  degree,  his  cunning  and  voracity  place 
him  in  a  prominent  rank  among  the  animals 
that  prey  upon  weaker  species  than  them- 
selves. The  gray  fox,  in  the  eyes  of  the  south- 
ern planter,  is  what  the  red  fox  is  to  the 
northern  farmer.  Judging  from  personal  ob- 
servation and  contact  with  these  two  species, 
and  from  the  best  information  obtainable  coming  as  it  does 
directly  from  farmers,  hunters  and  trappers,  it  appears  that  the 
red  fox  is  far  more  to  be  dreaded  than  the  gray;  the  latter  is  a 
pilfering  thief,  the  former  a  more  daring  and  cunning  plunderer. 

In  size  the  gray  and  red  fox  are  almost  identical  but  variation 
in  general  construction  and  in  color  of  pelage  covering  its 
body,  head,  legs  and  tail  exists.  The  chief  comparative  char- 
acteristics in  color,  is  that  the  pelage  of  the  gray  fox  is  gray, 
feet,  ears  and  legs  red,  and  while  lower  portion  of  the  tail  is  red, 
the  upper  is  invariably  black,  terminating  in  a  black  tip.  The 
belly  portion  is  always  of  a  reddish  cast,  intermingled  with  three 
or  four  white  blotches,  usually  one  at  lower  lip  and  extending 
to  neck,  another  at  the  animal's  chest  or  between  its  fore  legs  and 
the  last  about  the  rear  flanks.  The  pelage  as  a  whole  is  much 
coarser  and  especially  is  this  true  of  extreme  southern  species 
as  compared  with  the  red  fox.  The  guard  or  outer  hairs  of  the 
southern  gray  fox  are  harsher,  coarser  and  occasionally  bristle- 
like,  resembling  somewhat  in  texture  and  color  the  outer  garment 
of  a  two-year-old  silver  tip  bear.  The  gray  fox  is  also  known 
under  Woods'  gray  fox. 

Habits  ■'"^  habits  the  gray  fox  resembles  its  northern  breth- 
ren. It  lacks  boldness,  is  easily  scared  and  refrains 
from  visiting  the  barnyard  to  as  great  an  extent  as  Reynard  of  the 
north.  Inhabiting  a  more  civilized  section,  and  having  no  severe 
winter  to  contend  with,  his  food  is  more  easily  attainable  in  the 
open  or  wooded  sections,  consequently  his  depredations  and  noc- 
turnal visits  are  less  frequent  and  costly  to  the  inhabitants.  His 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


89 


Winter  Scene  THE  GREY  FOX  S.  W.  States 


favorite  place  of  abode  is  along  thickets,  or  \n  large  tufts  of 
broom  corn. 

He  is  forced  to  seek  safety  frequently  in  the  limbs  of  trees, 
when  hotly  pursued  by  hounds  or  the  hunter.  Thus  his  arboreal 
habits  are  not  natural.  Lacking  the  retractable  claws,  he  nec- 
essarily gains  his  higher  altitude  by  jumping,  catching  or  pulling 
himself  from  one  limb  to  another  until  he  has  attained  a  suitable 
position  on  some  obscure  limb.  Not  having  personally  seen  the 
animal  climb,  I  naturally  investigated  twenty  or  thirty  reports 
from  hunters  and  trappers,  and  invariably  found  that  the  animal 
will  not  climb  trees  of  its  own  accord,  and  only  occasionally  if 


90  Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


chased,  will  he  seek  a  place  of  refuge  by  the  unnatural  trait  of 
climbing. 

The  gray  fox  produces  three  to  five  young  at  a  time,  and 
these  are  invariably  born  during  the  month  of  April.  Their  usual 
abode  is  in  caves,  burrows  and  occasionally  in  hollow  logs. 

THE  SWIFT  FOX. 

(Kitt  Fox,  Lat.  Vulpes  velox.) 

HE  swift  fox  is  the  smallest  of  all  the  foxes,  and 
strictly  a  northern  species.  Judging  from  the 
number  of  skins  received,  the  animal  must  be 
quite  numerous  in  Montana,  Idaho,  Oregon, 
Washington,  and  in  that  part  of  Canada  em- 
bracing British  Columbia,  Alberta,  Assiniboia, 
Saskatchewan,  and  probably  extending  to  the 
Great  Slave  Lake. 

In  size  he  is  only  one-third  to  one-half  that 
of  the  red  fox.  A  good  comparison  can  be  had  by  viewing  the 
stufifed  specimen  in  connection  with  a  red  fox,  as  illustrated  else- 
where in  this  volume.  The  animal  is  certainly  swift  of  foot,  hard 
to  shoot  or  trap,  exceedingly  cunning,  more  so  than  the  red,  gray, 
or  southern  prairie  fox.  Its  pelage  is  more  of  a  woolly  nature, 
topped  with  gray  pointed  guard  hairs  that  extend  over  the  fur 
fibers  one-quarter  of  an  inch.  The  belly  portion,  beginning  with 
the  under  lip  and  extending  to  the  rear  flank,  is  covered  with  a 
thin,  but  long  white  fur.  Its  legs  are  partly  covered  with  white 
and  reddish  colored  fur,  the  tail,  which  is  eight  to  ten  inches  long, 
is  less  bushy  and  terminates  with  black  hairs.  The  animal  is  very 
cute,  neat,  and  of  a  pleasing  appearance,  but  when  cornered,  shows 
his  teeth  as  do  the  other  species. 

Habits  Like  the  other  species,  the  swift  fox  possesses  car- 
nivorous and  nocturnal  habits,  but  being  of  small  size 
is  obliged  to  confine  his  depredations  to  small  animals  or  birds 
Mr.  Twamley  advises  me  from  Lethbridge  that  the  swift  fox  is 
fully  as  hard,  if  not  harder  to  trap,  than  the  red,  cross  or  silver 
fox.  He  further  states  that  many  are  annually  killed  with 
poisoned  bait.  The  same  gentleman  tells  me  that  he  is  a  match 
in  swiftness,  cunning,  sense  of  sight  and  smell  to  the  red  fox. 
He  is  certainly  sly,  and  the  color  of  his  pelage  and  smallness  of 
body  are  advantageous  in  his  pursuit  of  game. 

An  interesting  narrative  of  an  encounter  between  a  swift  fox 
and  a,  large  Canadian  goose  is  related  by  him  and  is  here  ap- 
pended. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


91 


''One  morning  in  the  early  fall,  I  chanced  to  observe  a  very 
interesting  battle  between  a  swift  fox  and  a  large  Canadian 
goose,  in  which  the  former,  as  luck  happened,  at  first  won,  but 
later  paid  the  penalty.  Coming  slowly  over  a  hill  to  a  lake  known 
'  to  me  as  a  stopping  or  resting  place  in  the  southern  flights  of 
our  large  Canadian  geese,  I  perchanced  to  see  a  flock  of  them  at 
the  extreme  edge  of  the  water.  Wishing  to  get  closer,  I  crawled 
upon  all  fours  to  a  more  advantageous  position,  when  to  my 
surprise  a  swift  fox  jumped  from  its  place  of  concealment,  slight- 
ly elevated,  and  landed  square  upon  the  back  of  a  large  gander. 
My  first  impulse  was  to  fire  immediately,  but  upon  second 
thought  resolved  to  await  developments.  The  fox,  as  noted, 
jumped  upon  its  back,  but  failed  to  secure  better  than  a  wing 
hold,  and  being  of  light  weight,  the  goose  had  little  difficulty  in 
its  fluttering  and  attempted  flight,  to  literally  drag  the  fox  several 
feet  further  into  the  water.  As  luck  would  have  it,  the  tussel  took 
place  in  very  shallow  water.  After  a  continued  struggle  and  flut- 
tering, the  fox  finally  secured  its  desired  hold,  and  the  matter, 
so  far  as  the  goose  was  concerned,  was  a  thing  of  the  past.  Upon 
being  sure  that  the  goose  was  unable  to  escape,  the  fox  jumped 
and  waded  to  shore,  shook  himself,  and  then  again  made  for  the 
goose  and  slowly  dragged  it  to  the  shore.  At  that  point  I  inter- 
fered by  discharging  the  rifle,  killing  the  fox  instantly.  This 
gave  me  the  fox  to  skin  and  a  goose  to  eat.'' 

The  skin  is  of  small  value,  seldom  exceeding  $i.oo  in  price  for 
the  best.  The  average  price  for  years  past  ranged  from  35c. 
to  75c.  The  season  for  propogation  is  in  conformity  with  that 
of  other  species  inhabiting  that  locality.  The  abode  of  the  par- 
ents at  that  period  is  in  caves,  burrows,  under  rocks,  seldom  in 
hollow  trees,  and  always  in  some  isolated  localitv. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  93 


THE  CROSS  FOX. 

HAT  such  a  fox  should  be  different  from  what  the 
■|||^^^^,  name  signifies,  would  be  like  calling  a  half-blood  an 
^^pBl^jt)  Indian,  or  an  Indian  a  Caucasian,  or  vice  versa.  No 
Sl^^lcJw  satisfactory  explanation  has  been  given  why  it  is 
Ey^^^  that  the  northern  species  will  interbreed,  and  not 
^^^^m^r  the  southern.  Of  course  we  all  know  that  the  cross 
fox  is  the  probable  result  of  inter-breeding  between 
a  red  and  black,  or  a  red  and  silver.  Historians 
fail  to  state  the  beginning  of  this  inter-breeding,  neither  are  we  as- 
sured just  what  were  the  original  breeds  or  species.  Perhaps  at 
one  time  there  were  only  black,  red  and  swift  foxes ;  these  three 
seem  to  possess  distinct  features.  To  advance  the  theory  that 
the  northern  cross  fox  is  closely  related  to  the  southern  gray  fox 
and  that  the  present  differences  are  entirely  due  to  climatic 
conditions  covering  a  period  of  perhaps  800  to  1,000  years,  is  in 
line  with  the  modified  changes  noted  even  in  our  own  time.  What 
old  trapper  or  keen  observer  has  not  noted  the  changes  in  our  cli- 
mate as  compared  with  fifty  years  ago,  likewise  changes  in  the 
color,  habits  and  numerosity  of  wild  animals? 

The  writer  has  personally  observed  the  close  relation  between 
the  cross  and  silver  fox  captured  recently,  and  as  much  as  twenty- 
five  years  ago  in  the  state  of  Iowa,  northern  Minnesota,  and  one 
specimen  in  particular  claimed  to  have  been  captured  in  central 
Illinois.  Such  an  animal  or  its  skin,  if  placed  at  a  distance  of 
ten  feet  from  the  observer  and  not  permitting  closer  examination, 
one  who  is  qualified  will  be  in  doubt  as  to  whether  the  animal  or 
skin  is  a  northern  silver  or  a  southern  gray  fox.  Close  observa- 
tion, however,  will  convince  that  the  species  is  just  between  the 
two.  The  size  and  color  are  identical.  The  fur,  of  course,  is 
coarser,  and  probably  not  as  deep. 

As  will  be  noted,  a  cross  fox  is  not  a  distinct  species,  and  that 
in  size  he  resembles  the  gray,  black  or  silver  fox.  The  pelage 
indicates  variable  changes,  some  leaning  more  towards  the  red, 
others  toward  the  silver  fox.  The  lower  portion  of  the  back,  the 
belly  and  the  hips,  are  usually  covered  with  black  fur.  In  the 
northern  latitudes  it  is  to  be  noted  that  the  cross  fox  species  will 
breed  more  together  than  inter-breed  with  the  black,  silver,  or  red. 
fox.    The  habits  are  all  about  the  same. 


94  Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


THE  SILVER  GRAY  FOX. 

SILVER  gray  fox  is  a  northern  species,  scarcely 
found  in  the  northern  states  of  our  Union,  more 
numerous  in  Canada  and  Alaska,  also  in  other 
cold  sections  of  the  globe,  notably  in  Siberia.  In 
size,  habits,  mode  of  propagation,  etc.,  it  re- 
sembles the  cross  and  red  fox ;  is  slightly  larger 
than  the  blue  or  white  fox.  Its  pelage  consists 
of  a  beautiful  coat  of  silver  gray  to  black  fur, 
that  in  beauty  is  only  next  to  that  of  the  scarce 
black  fox.  The  price  of  the  skin  is  graduated  by  its  size,  perfect- 
ness,  primeness  and  general  appearance,  varying  upon  the  quality, 
texture  and  color  of  its  black  fur.  The  darker  furred  skin  is 
worth  more  than  a  lighter.  The  animal's  tail  is  covered  with  a 
dense  coat  of  jet  black  fur.  The  guard  hairs  are  jet  black,  lus- 
trous, all  pointing  away  from  the  body  and  all  toward  the  white- 
furred  tip. 

As  noted  elsewhere,  this  species,  also  that  of  the  cross  fox,  is 
the  result  of  habitual  inter-breeding  between  the  red,  black  or 
white  fox.  An  instance  is  cited  where  a  silver  fox,  with  young, 
was  captured  and  placed  in  confinement.  The  young  were  born 
fifteen  days  thereafter.  The  old,  as  well  as  the  young,  w^ere 
retained  in  captivity  for  years.  The  following  winter  after  the 
capture,  one  of  the  pups  had  a  nice  silver  pelage,  the  others  re- 
sembled more  that  of  a  red  fox  than  anything  else.  The  mother 
was  now  confined  eight  months,  and  the  owner  deemed  it  advis- 
able to  procure  a  male,  in  which  he  finally  succeeded.  Upon  the 
latter's  arrival  he  was  placed  in  an  enclosure  adjoining  that  of 
the  female.  For  a  week  or  so  their  demeanor  was  anything  but 
friendly  to  each  other.  In  ten  days  an  opening  was  made  in  the 
partition,  through  which  one  could  visit  the  other  at  their  pleasure. 
The  visits  failed  to  materialize,  at  least  none  were  observed.  The 
fact  that  both  of  the  animals  were  aware  of  the  existing  opening 
and  that  one  or  the  other  put  his  or  her  head  through  the  open- 
ing, gave  us  the  assurance  of  their  knowledge.  Their  manner 
while  at  the  opening,  however,  indicated  that  entrance  was  for-  ^ 
bidden,  or  that  one  or  the  other  expected  trouble.  After  three 
weeks  to  a  month  the  two  became  rather  friendly  at  times.  Later 
the  partition  was  entirely  removed,  but  even  then  one  would  avoid 
the  other's  company  to  a  greater  or  lesser  extent.  But  presumably 
during  the  night  or  at  other  times  unobserved,  they  finally  became 
friends  and  enjoyed  each  other's  company.  The  following  May 
there  were  born  four  young,  three  of  which  grew  up  to  nice  silver 
foxes,  while  the  fourth  was  a  specimen  of  a  cross  fox. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


95 


The  fox,  as  well  as  all  other  carnivorous  animals  can  be  domes- 
ticated, but  this  takes  time,  money  and  patience,  and  unless  given 
a  wide  range  of  freedom,  the  skins  are  of  little  value,  even  if  taken 
off  at  the  right  time. 

THE  BLACK  FOX. 

HIS,  one  of  the  Arctic  species,  is  found  only  in  ex- 
treme northern  latitudes,  Northern  Canada,  Alas- 
ka, Siberia  and  in  some  of  the  Islands  of  the  Al- 
eutian Group.  Few  perfect  skins  are  annually 
marketed.  In  general  appearance  the  animal  re- 
sembles the  silver  fox,  excepting  that  its  pelage 
instead  of  being  of  a  silvery  nature  is  lustrous  black,  especially  that 
portion  about  the  shoulders.  The  tail  is  long,  bushy,  and  all  black 
furred,  excepting  the  tip,  which  is  white.  Its  pelage  is  soft,  sil- 
very, seldom  wavy  or  kinky.  Living  as  they  do  in  isolated  places, 
man  does  not  have  the  opportunity  to  study  their  habits,  but  what 
little  is  known  of  them  indicates  that  their  chief  food  is  mice,  snow 
birds  and  lemmings.  In  his  persistent  pursuit  of  food,  if  occasion 
necessitates,  crosses  rivers  and  other  large  bodies  of  water.  Not 
being  fastidious  in  his  appetite,  he  is  content  with  any  form  of 
flesh  food,  be  it  animals,  birds  or  fish.  He  scarcely  ever  seeks 
shelter  unless  pursued  by  his  enemies  or  on  approach  of  severe 
weather. 

Nothing  can  be  said  about  his  habits  that  is  notably  untrue  of 
the  other  Arctic  species.  All  naturalists  who  have  given  the  sub- 
ject some  attention,  join  in  the  belief  that  the  black  fox  is  a 
natural  species,  and  not  the  result  of  intermediate  breeding,  as  is 
the  silver,  cross,  also  the  southern  gray  fox.  Hudson  Bay  fur 
traders,  also  Indians,  as  late  as  1888,  observed  large  droves  or 
packs  of  black,  white,  blue  and  silver  foxes,  probably  the  result 
of  being  chased  by  wolves,  or  in  quest  of  food,  or  other  times 
seeking  mates,  which  all  seems  plausible. 

The  animal's, abode  is  usually  under  some  cliff,  rocks  and  in 
burrows.  He  is  successfully  raised  for  the  pelt  at  various  places, 
particularly  so  on  some  of  the  small  islands  forming  the  Aleutian 
Group.  Favorable  results  are  obtained  when  the  animal  is  per- 
mitted his  freedom,  and  as  Elliot,  one  of  the  early  explorers  of  the 
Behring  Islands  informs  us  ''other  less  valuable  fox  cannot  reach 
this  remote  island,  for  not  even  the  ice  furnishes  them  with  a 
bridge,  and  besides  this  the  inhabitants  guard  against  the  deterio- 
ration of  their  foxes,  consequently  no  detrimental  cross-breeding 
can  take  place,  and  the  beauty  of  the  furs,  of  which  the  inhabi- 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


97 


tants  sell  200  to  300  annually,  is  beyond  reproach  and  is  uni- 
versally acknowledged/' 

The  breeding  season  of  the  Arctic  fox  begins  with  April,  some- 
times as  late  as  May,  and  in  about  sixty  days  the  female  gives 
birdi  to  a  large  litter  of  cubs,  in  some  cavern,  crevice  of  a  rock 
or  burrow.  As  many  as  ten  to  twelve  young  are  born  annually. 
Her  lair  is  preferably  made  by  her  in  a  mountain  side,  or  at  the 
edge  of  some  woody  region,  which  enables  the  mother  to  guard 
against  approaching  danger.  Being  over-zealous  in  the  care  of 
her  young,  she  at  times  inadvertantly  leads  the  trapper  right  to 
her  abode,  by  yelping  and  barking  at  a  distance,  undoubtedly  with 
the  impression  of  scaring  the  intruder  from  the  locality.  Much  to 
the  detriment  of  the  mother,  as  well  as  the  young,  these  tactics 
are  known  by  the  inhabitants,  who  eagerly  search  for  the  place  of 
confinement. 

THE  BLUE  FOX. 

This  is  strictly  an  Arctic  species,  and  is  found  in  the  same  sec 
tions  as  the  white  and  black  fox,  apparently  distinct  from  them, 
but  resembling  them  in  size  and  habits.    The  animal  is  eagerly 
sought  after,  as  its  fur  is  quite  valuable.    The  notable  difference 
is  entirely  in  the  color  of  its  pelage,  being  of  rather  indistinct  01 
bluish  hue.    There  are  no  blue  foxes  in  the  United  States. 

THE  WHITE  FOX. 

The  white  fox  is  also  an  Arctic  species  and  inhabits  the  polar 
regions.  It  is  somewhat  smaller  than  the  red  fox,  also  smaller 
than  the  average  silver  or  black  fox  and  is  entirely  distinct  from 
either  of  them,  but  experienced  hunters  and  trappers  state  that  this 
species  is  sometimes  known  to  live  in  the  same  burrow  with  some 
of  the  other  Arctic  foxes. 

Their  pelage  is  of  a  clear  white  color,  rather  compact  and 
of  a  woolly  nature.  The  animal  is  quite  numerous  in  the  extreme 
northern  portion.  At  numerous  times  individuals  and  pairs,  were 
remoted  from  the  extreme  north  and  placed  in  confinement,  but 
the  result  has  been  unfavorable,  as  the  fox,  like  most  of  the  other 
species,  long  for  their  freedom. 


THE  BEAR  FAMILY. 


The  Black  Bear,  The  Brozvn  Bear,  The  Cinnamon  Bear,  The 
Grizzly  Bear,  The  Polar  Bear, 

THE  BLACK  BEAR. 


BLACK  bear  is  the  best  known  species,  due  to  its 
numerosity  and  wide  geographical  distribution, 
inhabiting  as  it  does  all  sections  of  the  globe,  ex- 
cepting Australia.  It  is  known  by  naturalists 
as  the  Baribal,  Muskwa  and  the  Ursus  Ameri- 
canus.  On  this  continent  the  black  bear  is  found 
from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  to  the  Arctic  regions 
and  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  dif- 
fering somewhat  in  size,  habits,  quality  and  color 
of  its  pelage,  which  variations  are  entirely  trace- 
able to  climatic  conditions.  He  resembles  the  European  bear 
very  much  and  the  animal's  nomenclature  is  extensive  and  diver- 
sified, as  the  knowledge  of  his  existence  has  reached  every  tribe 
and  nation.  Much  has  been  written  about  the  black  bear  that 
has  made  him  very  popular,  his  ferocious  habits  have  at  times  been 
ignored  and  at  other  times  largely  exaggerated. 

The  black  bear  of  the  north  is  much  larger,  stronger,  ferocious 
to  a  greater  degree,  and  his  pelage,  especially  during  the  winter 
months,  is  much  more  valuable  as  compared  with  his  southern 
brethren.  A  full-grown  northern  black  bear  will  weigh  500  to 
650  pounds,  while  the  large  yearling  or  two-year-old  will  com- 
pare favorably  in  size  and  weight  with  a  full  grown  southern 
species,  ranging  from  250  to  400  pounds.  Hunters  relate  that 
during  the  '6o's,  also  early  '70's  of  the  past  century,  black  bears 
were  killed  that  weighed  as  high  as  750  pounds  in  the  dense  pine 
forests  of  Minnesota,  Wisconsin  and  Michigan.  The  average 
yearling  black  bear  of  the  north  would  measure  forty  to  forty-five 
inches,  when  two  years  old,  fifty  to  sixty  inches,  and  when  full- 
grown  six  to  seven  feet  long  from  tip  of  nose  to  root  of  tail.  The 
ears  are  small  and  well  rounded,  being  covered  with  a  short,  black 
fur,  the  eyes  are  exceedingly  small,  while  the  snout  is  short  and  in 
general  the  head  is  smaller  in  proportion  to  that  of  the  brown  or 
grizzly  bear.  Its  legs  are  strong,  while  its  feet  are  large,  the  latter 
possessing  each,  five  long,  but  dull  and  almost  immovable  and  un- 
retractable  claws.  Thirty-five  to  thirty-seven  monstrous  looking 
teeth  are  firmly  set  in  its  jaws  and  the  animal's  power  in  its  mouth 
is  tremendous.    Its  lustrous  black  fur  is  from  three  to  five  inches 


100 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


in  length,  the  undergrowth  about  two-thirds  of  the  latter  size. 
The  latter  quite  often  is  wavy  and  instead  of  being  glossy  has  a 
dull  appearance  ranging  from  a  deep  brown  to  a  jet  black.  The 
fur  is  evenly  distributed  over  the  skin,  but  gradually  tapers  as  the 
body  terminates  into  legs,  head  and  tail.  Oftentimes  the  guard 
hairs  about  the  hips  become  rubbed  and  the  fur  matted.  The 
latter  then  becomes  of  a  woolly  appearance. 

Habits  That  the  animal  pos3esses  carnivorous  as  well  as  om- 
nivorous habits,  cannot  be  denied,  feeding  as  he  does 
indiscriminately  upon  vegetation,  such  as  grass,  fruits,  leaves,  and 
when  opportunity  presents  upon  poultry,  sheep,  veal,  rabbits  and 
deer.  Occasionally  when  his  ferocious  nature  is  aroused  will  cap- 
ture and  kill  other  live  stock  and  many  instances  can  be  recited 


Michigan  BLACK   BEAR  From  a  Photo 

In  a  No.  5  Newhouse  Steel  Trap 

where  the  brute  turned  to  cannibalism,  although  this  action  on  the 
part  of  the  animal  is  rare.  Honey  is  eagerly  sought  by  all  of 
these  species,  and  probably  nothing  is  more  pleasing  to  them  than 
to  discover  a  beehive.  His  sitting,  sliding,  scratching,  hugging, 
tumbling  habits,  and  the  brute's  aptitude  of  walking  erect  on  his 
rear  legs  when  approaching  man,  also  his  peculiar  way  of  swing- 
ing his  head  when  leisurely  strolling,  are  his  chief  characteristics 
and  of  course  these  are  well  known  to  those  who  have  come  in 
contact  with  the  black  bear.  His  habitual  sitting  up  on  his  rear 
haunches,  invariably  destroys  the  value  of  the  skin  for  robe  and 
rug  purposes,  also  for  the  taxidermist.    The  -fur  about  the  hips 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  lot 


becomes  badly  rubbed,  matted,  and  of  a  woolly  appearance.  Dur- 
ing the  winter  months  the  animal  is  conspicuous  by  its  absence, 
being  in  some  den  partaking  of  the  winter  sleep.  The  extent,  dur- 
ation and  period  of  this  hibernating  habit  depends  largely  upon  the 
weather,  surroundings,  food  supply,  and  upon  the  animal  him- 
self; sometimes  lasting  three  to  four  weeks,  at  other  times  as 
many  months.  Quite  often  during  mild  and  thawy  weather,  the 
bear  will  awake  from  his  winter  slumbers  and  seek  food  and  drink. 
When  his  appetite  and  thirst  are  satisfied  he  may  re-enter  his  den 
and  remain  there  for  weeks,  at  other  times  he  refuses  to  re-enter 
and  immediately  begins  looking  for  prey,  and  being  emaciated  and 
run  down,  his  requirements  are  large  in  that  respect. 

Bears  held  in  captivity,  unless  exposed  to  the  elements  and 
in  some  large,  roomy  locality,  with  all  the  natural  surroundings, 
will  lose  their  hibernating  habit.  Occasionally  in  his  wild  state 
and  in  his  natural  home,  he  will  neglect  to  partake  of  this  periodi- 
cal winter  sleep.  This  brute  is  an  expert  swimmer,  fairly  good  at 
climbing,  and  it  takes  a  good  man  to  run  away  from  him  if  the 
animal  becomes  enraged.  While  the  cubs  and  young  bears  hab- 
ituallv  climb  trees,  the  old  ones  very  rarely  climb  them  unless  in 
search  of  food  and  then  they  quite  often  tumble  to  the  earth  on 
account  of  the  claws  being  dull.  Nature  has  provided  him  with  all 
the  facilities  for  escape  that  man  has,  being  equal  to  the  average 
man  in  running,  climbing  and  swimming,  hence  if  pursued  the 
chances  of  escape  are  somewhat  dubious  unless  backed  with  lots 
of  nerve  and  good  weapons. 

The  female  brings  forth  a  litter  of  two,  three  or  four,  occa- 
sionally five,  and  rarely  one  cub.  The  cave  or  den,  where  the 
mother  raises  her  children,  is  generally  warm,  being  padded  with 
dry  leaves,  grass  or  other  vegetation  and  is  usually  on  the  sunny 
side  of  some  hill  or  mountain.  The  den  is  generally  in  some 
inscrutable  place  with  impervious  surroundings,  which  obstacles 
the  hunter  readily  overcomes  by  manifold  methods.  In  such  cases 
the  female  will  carry  the  young  away  to  another  obscure  locality, 
sometimes  a  distance  of  three  or  four  miles.  While  so  engaged, 
should  she  meet  the  intruder,  and  cannot  readily  proceed  in  her 
wishes,  she  will  turn  upon  the  hunter,  showing  fight,  especially  if 
previously  molested.  Regardless  of  their  clumsy  construction 
they  can  outrun  the  pursuer,  and  it  is  not  an  easy  matter  to  escape 
from  this  animal  after  he  or  she  is  enraged  and  turns  upon  the 
pursuer. 


102         Andersch  Sros.^  Suniers  and  Trappers  Guide. 


THE  BROWN  BEAR. 

This  brute  is  about  extinct  in  the  Appalachian  chain  of  moun- 
tains and  is  now  sparingly  found  east  of  the  Rockies,  more  numer- 
ous in  some  of  the  western  states,  about  the  Sierra  Nevadas,  Cas- 
cade mountains  and  along  the  Rocky  mountains  extending  from 
New  Mexico  to  Alaska.  Idaho,  Washington,  Oregon  and  Mon- 
tana have  lately  furnished  most  of  the  skins,  but  the  animal  is 
probably  more  numerous  in  British  Columbia  than  anywhere  else 
on  this  continent.  This  species  is  more  or  less  confused  with  the 
cinnamon  bear,  which  it  closely  resembles.  Great  variation  in  size, 
strength,  ferocity  and  color  of  its  pelage  exists,  due  to  the  vast 
territory  and  the  marked  changes  in  climatic  conditions.  The 
northern  animals  are  by  all  means  the  strongest,  heaviest  and 
probably  more  ferocious  than  their  southern  brethren.  As  com- 
pared with  the  black  bear  the  brown  bear  is  about  his  equal  in  size, 
but  in  certain  localities,  especially  in  British  Columbia,  the  brown 
bear  attains  an  enormous  size  exceeding  in  that  respect  the  black 
bear  by  loo  to  250  pounds. 

The  fur  of  the  southern  brute  is  coarse,  uneven,  shaggy,  harsh, 
less  dense,  and  in  color  ranges  from  a  dirty  yellow  to  a  light 
brown,  and  such  skins  are  of  little  value,  even  when  prime.  The 
pelt  of  the  northern  brute  is  quite  valuable,  especially  that  from 
the  two-year-old  or  three-year-old  animal.  The  older  the  animal 
the  coarser  the  fur,  and  consequently  the  skin  is  of  less  value  un- 
less it  is  extremely  large  and  suitable  for  specimen  purposes.  The 
fur  of  the  three-year-old  animal  is  from  three  to  five  inches  long, 
quite  often  of  a  wavy  appearance,  soft,  mellow,  and  in  color  rang- 
ing from  a  light  brown  to  a  deep,  rich,  dark  brown.  Two  beauti- 
ful colored  and  furred  skins,  coming  probably  from  two-year-old 
animals,  are  before  me  now.  In  length  the  fur  is  seven  to  seven 
one  fourth  inches,  in  color  light  brown,  with  the  inner  fur  two  or 
three  shades  still  lighter.  The  fur  fibers  are  wavy,  silky,  mellow, 
and  in  general  the  skins  are  very  beautiful.  The  animals  from 
which  they  were  taken  were  killed  in  the  Caribou  mountains  of 
Athabasca,  Canada.  As  to  their  habits,  there  is  no  distinct  dif- 
ference between  this  species  and  the  black  bear. 

THE  CINNAMON  BEAR. 

The  cinnamon  bear  (Ursus  Cinnamoneous)  is  found  rather 
sparingly  on  this  side  of  the  Canadian  line,  although  quite  a  num- 
ber are  annually  dispatched  in  the  mountainous  regions  along  the 
Rocky  and  Cascade  mountains  in  the  states  of  Montana,  Wyoming, 
Washington,  Idaho  and  Oregon.  The  brute  is  more  numerous  on 
the  Canadian  side  following  the  Rocky  Mountain  chain  clear  up 


Andersch  ^ros.^  Suniers  and  Trappers  Guide.  l6i 

to  Alaska.  This  is  not  an  Arctic  species  as  some  suppose,  neither 
is  the  animal  found  as  far  south  as  the  brown  bear.  Being  more 
of  a  northern  species  it  is  quite  natural  that  the  animal  is  large, 
strong,  robust  and  ferocious,  and  it  is  not  surprising  at  all  that 
the  Indians  consider  it  a  feat  second  in  importance  when  a  brave 
succeeds  in  killing  a  large  cinnamon  brute  to  that  of  the  famous 
grizzly.  The  cinnamon  bear  is  more  or  less  confused  with  the 
brown  bear.  As  will  be  observed  he  is  of  larger  stature,  and  in- 
stances are  recorded  where  the  animal  attained  the  enormous  size 
comparatively  with  the  grizzly  bear. 

Its  pelage,  as  its  name  implies,  is  of  a  dark  brown,  resembling 
the  color  of  cinnamon  bark.  The  fur  of  a  medium  aged  animal 
is  soft,  mellow  and  three  and  one  half  to  four  inches  long.  The 
body  is  well  and  evenly  covered  with  rather  a  dense  coat  which  be- 
comes shorter  as  the  body  terminates  into  the  head,  legs  and  tail. 
Occasionally  skins  are  received  where  the  fur  is  much  longer,  on 
the  other  hand  the  fur  of  the  older  animals  is  short,  harsh  and 
rather  uneven. 

A  certain  Mr.  McDonald,  a  member  of  the  mounted  police  in 
Canada,  witnessed  a  fierce  combat  between  a  cinnamon  and  a  black 
bear.  The  former  became  the  victor  only  after  four  to  six  hours 
of  the  fiercest  combat  probably  ever  witnessed  by  man.  Being  so 
evenly  matched,  no  apparent  advantage  was  gained  by  either  one 
over  the  other,  until  the  black  bear  was  unfortunate  in  being  rolled 
into  a  rapidly-flowing  creek,  and  being  fairly  exhausted  and  held 
down  by  the  weight  of  the  brown  bear,  it  required  comparatively 
only  a  few  minutes  until  the  black  bear  was  drowned.  In  describ- 
ing the  fight  he  states  that  it  resembled  that  between  two  huge 
dogs,  biting,  growling,  scratching,  hugging,  rolling,  etc.  The 
noise  these  brutes  made  while  so  engaged  was  indescribable.  In 
habits,  the  animals  dififer  slightly,  if  any,  from  the  black,  brown 
and  grizzly  bear. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  105 


THE  GRIZZLY  BEAR. 


HIS  monster  inhabits  strictly  mountainous 
regions  and  is  now  sparingly  found  in  the 
United  States.  Vvas  formerly  in  large  num- 
bers in  Montana,  Wyoming,  Oregon, 
Washington  and  southward  along  the  Rocky 
and  Cascade  mountains.  He  is  numerously 
found  in  British  Columbia  where  a  large 
specimen  was  recently  captured  weighing  2,800  to  3,000  pounds. 
He  is  also  found  in  the  extreme  northern  parts  of  Canada,  and  in 
Alaska.  The  largest  skin  that  came  to  my  notice  measured  eleven 
feet,  three  inches  in  length  and  average  width  of  seven  feet  and  six 
inches.  The  fur  on  this  skin  was  poor,  he  being  killed  during  the 
early  fall  months  when  the  skin  and  the  fur  were  unprime. 

The  pelage  of  the  grizzly  bear  varies  greatly  in  color,  so  much 
so  indeed  that  naturalists  as  well  as  the  fur  trade  divide  the 
species  into  tw^o  grades,  the  grizzly  and  silver  tip.  The  outer 
garment  of  the  former  is  dark  grey  to  black,  with  interspersed 
grey  or  silver  hairs.  The  fur  is  shaggy,  harsh,  uneven,  and  espe- 
cially is  this  true  of  the  older  animals,  while  the  fur  of  the  younger 
brutes  is  even,  somewhat  fine,  rather  dense,  and  two  and  a  half 
to  three  and  a  half,  possibly  four  inches  long.  The  fur  of  the 
silver  tipped  bear  skin  is  more  even,  and  tends  toward  a  greyish 
color  with  white  silvery  tipped  hairs,  rather  evenly  dispersed  and 
prominently  predominating,  making  the  skin  rather  beautiful  as 
well  as  serviceable.  Occasionally  the  fur  on  the  latter  is  of  a 
dark,  steel  grey,  with  interspersed  white  tipped  hairs.  Only  the 
skins  that  are  prime  are  of  any  value,  as  summer  skins  are  unfit  to 
be  tanned  and  can  only  be  used  for  specimen  purposes.  This 
brute  is  sometimes  confused  with  the  cinnamon,  also  the  brown 
bear,  of  which  he  is  their  master.  The  animal  has  enormous 
strength  in  his  legs  and  jaws,  and  with  apparent  ease  is  able  to 
drag  a  horse  or  cow  for  miles.  His  coUossal  weight  and  size  en- 
ables him  to  subdue  any  and  all  wild  animals  which  inhabit  this 
globe  and  in  a  probable  encounter  with  the  African  lion  or  the 
huge  elephant  he  would  come  off  the  victor. 

The  fur  on  this  monster  carnivorous  brute  is  of  a  shaggy  ap- 
pearance. The  word  ''grizzly"  is  justified  in  describing  the  con- 
dition of  the  fur  of  the  old  species,  probably  more  so  than  the 
two  to  four-year-old  brutes.  The  color  of  its  pelage  varies,  not 
only  in  the  different  sections  but  also  in  the  animal's  age.  The 
older  the  brute  the  more  shaggy,  grizzly  and  faded  the  fur. 


166         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  f rappers  &mde. 


THE  POLAR  BEAR. 

The  polar  bear  ranks  second,  if  not  first  in  size  of  all  the  var- 
ious species  of  the  bear  family.  He  inhabits  the  extreme  polar 
regions  where  ice  prevails  the  year  round.  By  no  means  does  he 
alone  belong  to  the  Western  hemisphere,  as  he  is  found  on  three 
continents.  On  this  continent  the  polar  bear  is  found  about  the 
eastern  coast  along  the  Baffin  Bay,  north  of  Hudson  Bay  Strait 
and  across  the  continent  to  Alaska. 

Its  pelage  consists  of  a  coarse  coat  of  yellowish  white  fur  of 
various  length ;  but  that  of  the  body  is  usually  three  to  four  inches 
long.  The  ears  are  short,  neck  rather  long,  body  long  in  propon 
tion  to  its  height  and  has  unusually  long  feet.  The  claws  are 
heavy  and  not  so  stubby  as  those  of  the  land  species.  In  his  habits 
he  varies  somewhat  from  the  other  strictly  land  species,  being  that 
he  is  confined  to  the  extreme  northern  regions  the  year  round, 
living  as  he  does  amongst  ice,  often  obliged  to  procure  his  only 
food  from  the  deep  seas.  This  bear  like  all  others  is  carnivorous, 
also  possesses  omnivorous  habits,  and  devours  with  voracity  the 
carcasses  of  whales  that  drift  ashore;  in  fact  devours  all  dead 
animals  that  the  waves  hurl  against  the  icy  shores  of  the  Arctic 
region. 

Capt.  Lyons  describes  the  polar  bear  at  full  speed,  "as  a  kind 
of  shuffle  as  quick  as  the  sharp  gallop  of  a  horse."  Quite  often 
the  animal  swims  off  to  floating  ice  or  to  icebergs  and  is  carried 
with  them  hundreds  of  miles  in  the  direction  that  the  wind  hap- 
pens to  be  blowing.  Capt.  Peary  reports  that  the  Esquimaux 
on  the  coast  of  Mellville  Peninsula  attain  part  of  their  subsistence 
from  the  flesh  of  the  female  bear,  which  they  dig  out  from  the 
snow.  Mr.  Graham  states  that  the  female  retires  to  her  winter 
quarters  in  November,  where  she  lives  without  food  until  she 
brings  forth  usually  two  cubs  about  Christmas  time.  The  cubs 
in  size  resemble  those  of  a  shepherd  dog.  The  offspring,  es- 
pecially if  tired,  ascends  the  animal's  back,  where  they  ride  se- 
curely, either  in  water  or  shore.  The  following  report  from  Capt. 
Lyons  is  interesting: 

*'At  the  commencement  of  winter  the  pregnant  bears  are  very 
fat,  and  always  solitary.  When  a  heavy  fall  of  snow  sets  in,  the 
animal  seeks  some  hollow  place  in  which  she  can  lie  down  and 
remain  quiet,  while  the  snow  covers  her.  Sometimes  she  will 
wait  until  a  quantity  of  snow  has  fallen,  and  then  digs  herself  a 
cave;  at  all  events  it  seems  necessary  that  she  should  be  covered 
by,  and  lie  amongst,  the  snow.  She  now  goes  to  sleep,  and  does 
not  wake  until  the  spring  sun  is  pretty  high,  when  she  brings 
forth  two  cubs.    The  cave  by  this  time  has  become  much  larger 


Andersch  Bros/  ttuniers  and  Trappers  Gimde.  10? 

by  the  effect  of  the  animars  warmth  and  breath,  so  that  the  cubs 
have  room  to  move,  and  they  acquire  considerable  strength  by 
continually  sucking.  The  dam  at  length  becomes  so  thin  and  weak 
that  it  is  with  great  difficulty  she  extricates  herself,  when  the  sun 
is  powerful  enough  to  throw  a  strong  glare  through  the  snow 
which  roofs  the  den.  The  Esquimaux  affirms  that  during  this 
long  confinement  the  bear  has  no  evacuations,  and  is  herself  the 
means  of  preventing  them  by  stopping  all  the  natural  passages 
with  moss,  grass,  or  earth.  The  natives  find  and  kill  the  bears 
during  their  confinement  by  means  of  dogs,  which  scent  them 
through  the  snow,  and  begin  scratching  and  howling  very  eager- 
ly. As  it  would  be  unsafe  to  make  a  large  opening,  a  long  trench 
is  cut  of  sufficient  width  to  enable  a  man  to  look  down  and  see 
where  the  bear's  head  lies,  and  he  then  selects  a  mortal  part,  into 
which  he  thrusts  his  spear.  The  old  one  being  killed,  the  hole 
is  broken  open,  and  the  young  cubs  may  be  taken  out  by  the  hand, 
as,  having  tasted  no  blood,  and  never  having  been  at  liberty,  they 
are  then  very  harmless  and  quiet.  Females,  which  are  not  preg- 
nant, roam  throughout  the  whole  winter  in  the  same  manner  as 
the  males. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


109 


THE  RACCOON. 

( Ger.  Waschbar,  Lat.  Procyon  loter.) 

HE  raccoon  is  a  native  of  North  America,  belongs 
to  the  bear  family,  and  is  somewhat  related  to  the 
South  America  species  better  known  as  the  crab- 
eating  raccoon.  This  animal  has  all  the  good,  and 
nearly  all  the  bad  habits  that  any  other  fur-bearing 
animal  possesses.  He  is  an  expert  climber,  very 
good  at  swimming,  a  fairly  swift  runner  and  expert  fighter,  and 
his  nocturnal  and  omnivorous  habits  are  only  too  well  known 
to  the  hunter  and  trapper.  He  is  found  in  almost  every  state 
and  territory  of  the  union.  Probably  more  so  in  the  southern 
states  than  in  the  western  or  northern.  He  is  scarcely  found 
in  Canada,  although  he  does  exist  in  the  southern  portion  thereof. 
Under  no  circumstances  is  he  an  Arctic  species  and  is  not  found 
in  that  region  at  all;  in  fact,  he  does  not  inhabit  any  section  in 
which  the  polar  bear  is  found. 

The  body  of  the  raccoon  is  thick,  plump  and  resembles  that  of 
the  badger,  although  being  shorter  and  differently  furred,  and  his 
body  is  elevated  four  or  five  inches  higher  than  that  of  the  badger. 
Climatic  conditions  are  responsible  for  the  marked  variations  of 
the  animal  as  compared  with  those  inhabiting  the  northern,  west- 
ern, eastern  and  southern  parts  of  the  United  States.  While  a 
full-grown  northern  raccoon  will  weigh  twenty-five  to  thirty-five 
pounds  and  the  body  measures  from  twenty-two  to  twenty-eight 
inches  in  length,  to  which  a  tail  of  five  to  seven  inches  is  attached, 
the  extreme  southern  species  will  rarely  exceed  twenty  pounds  in 
weight,  its  body  only  measuring  sixteen  to  twenty  inches  in 
length.  While  the  former  possess  a  coat  of  dark,  dense,  and 
rather  fine  fur,  the  latter  has  a  thin,  coarse  and  light-colored 
pelage.  The  tail  is  covered  with  dense  fur  of  the  ring  formation. 
The  rings  change  in  color,  alternating  with  the  predominating 
color  of  its  body. 

The  fur  of  the  first  above  species  as  noted,  is  very  dark,  long, 
comparatively  fine  and  the  inner  coat  resembles  that  of  the  beaver, 
being  dark  brown,  wavy  and  very  dense.  The  outer  guard  hairs 
are  black  to  dark  brown  in  color,  and  extend  on  an  average  of  one- 
half  inch  above  the  fur  fibers.  The  prime  northern  skins  can  be 
used  for  various  purposes,  the  principal  use  being  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  fur  coats.  The  best  skins  are  probably  picked  out,  plucked, 
dyed,  or  used  natural,  to  imitate  beaver.  The  pelage  of  the  south- 
ern species  is  lighter  in  color,  often  of  a  brown  leaning  towards  a 


Nprth^rn  Slate?  RACCQONg  AT  POIVIP 


Tak^ri  from  a  PJiotograph 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


111 


reddish  hue,  and  the  fur  is  more  thinly  distributed  as  compared 
with  that  of  the  northern  species.  The  skins  of  the  southern, 
middle  and  western  states  are  chiefly  used  for  gentlemen's  over- 
coats. 

The  best  skins  for  this  purpose  come  from  a  section  of  Mis- 
souri, where  particular  attention  is  paid  to  the  handling  of  them 
and  are  commercially  known  as  ''New  Madrid  Skins."  These 
skins  are  handled  largely  by  negroes  who  are  specially  educated 
in  taking  the  skins  off  the  animals  and  the  stretching  and  drying 
of  same  to  the  best  possible  advantage  for  themselves  and  the  man- 
ufacturer. As  the  animal  is  found  in  all  states  and  territories  of 
the  union,  with  the  exception  of  Alaska,  an  exceedingly  large 
number  of  skins  are  annually  marketed  and  consumed.  It  is  var- 
iously estimated  that  3,000,000  to  4,000,000  skins  are  annually 
marketed.  The  city  of  St.  Louis  is  the  leading  market  for  the 
southern  raccoon  skins,  while  Minneapolis  and  St.  Paul  are  the 
leading  markets  for  the  northern  raccoon  skins. 

Habits  ^^^^  animal  possesses  nocturnal  and  omnivorous  habits, 
is  an  excellent  swimmer  and  climber,  and  if  chased 
will  cover  a  considerable  space  in  a  remarkably  short  time,  and 
when  opportunity  presents  will  seek  shelter  in  a  tree  or  in  a  hol- 
low log,  and  with  swiftness  and  precision  will  jump  from  one  tree 
to  another,  and  if  occasion  demands  from  the  extreme  height  of 
the  tree  immediately  to  the  ground,  alighting  on  its  feet,  and  cat- 
like fashion  attempt  to  decamp  to  a  place  of  safety  unless  detained 
by  the  dogs  or  hunter.  , 

His  food  consists  chiefly  of  nuts,  grapes,  fruit,  vegetables  and 
eggs.  He  can  be  seen  in  the  evening  rambling  about  marshes  and 
streams  in  search  of  frogs,  fish  and  turtles,  and  at  night  will  chase 
mice,  rats,  birds,  as  well  as  rabbits.  Besides  these  he  readily  con- 
sumes vast  quantities  of  vermin,  bugs,  crabs,  etc.  The  poultry 
yard  is  often  visited,  and  nothing  is  more  pleasing  to  him  than 
some  domesticated  animal,  such  as  the  pigeon,  chicken,  duck,  and 
the  large  goose  is  not  objected  to  by  him.  Not  only  is  he  fond 
of  the  meat,  but  considers  eggs  a  greater  dainty  and  repast.  The 
egg  is  artistically  held  in  his  long  paws,  is  broken  with  his  mouth 
and  the  contents  gradually  sucked  out.  He  possesses  the  peculiar 
habit  of  dipping  his  foot  into  the  water  and  then  rubbing  it  bet- 
ween his  fore  paws  to  wash  it.  This  is  one  of  his  playing  at- 
titudes. He  is  quite  often  seen  about  streams  and  water  where 
the  chief  part  of  his  food  is  found.  He  takes  especial  delight  in 
reaching  out  his  paw  for  shining  objects  or  articles  in  the  water, 
such  as  a  tin  can,  piece  of  glass,  broken  mirror,  etc.  If  the 
article  is  unprocurable  with  his  paws,  he  readily  dives  for  it. 
The  old  ^s  well  as  the  young  are  of  a  playful  disposition  resemb^ 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  113 


ling  somewhat  the  fox  or  the  bear.  He  is  a  keen  observer,  and 
it  is  a  pleasure  to  watch  him  when  he  is  playfully  inclined. 

He  is  a  cheerful,  handsome  and  lively  fellow.  His  bear-likt 
gait  with  his  head  swinging  one  way  and  then  another  and  with 
his  high  arched  back  and  drooped  tail,  makes  a  pleasing  picture ; 
but  upon  the  slightest  disturbance  or  the  discovery  of  some  scent, 
his  interest  immediately  is  aroused  and  especially  if  he  perceives 
some  harmless  animal.  He  at  once  pricks  up  his  ears,  listens, 
sometimes  stands  erect  on  his  legs,  and  swiftly  darts  after  the  ob- 
ject, while  if  fooled,  he  may  revert  his  disposition  to  a  playful 
mood  and  dart  upon  some  tree  with  an  agility  for  which  one 
would  hardly  have  given  him  credit.  Frequently  one  can  see  him 
running  on  a  horizontal  branch  like  a  sloth  or  a  monkey,  with 
body  hanging  downward.  He  is  fond  of  playing  tricks  and  is  very 
often  inclined  towards  an  inquisitive  and  mischievous  nature.  The 
animal  can  be  tamed  if  captured  young,  and  if  successful  the  ef- 
fort is  rewarded  by  his  constant  cheerful  disposition  and  ever 
giving  enjoyment  to  the  children.  He  enjoys  being  petted,  and 
becomes  much  attached  to  persons.  Of  the  qualities  of  the 
raccoon,  Mr.  Beckman  has  the  following  to  say: 

*'An  animal  of  unlimited  inquisitive  intrigue  and  obstinacy, 
with  a  tendency  to  search  all  nooks  and  corners.  In  sharp  con- 
trast to  these  qualities  he  also  possesses  coolness,  self  restraint, 
and  marked  sense  of  humor.  His  contending  obstinacy  often 
naturally  brings  about  the  queerest  results  as  he  realizes  the 
impossibility  of  attaining  any  special  object  he  has  been  striving 
for;  the  fiercest  ferocity  gives  place  to  an  apathetic  indifference, 
and  obstinate  perseverance  changes  into  resignation.  On  the  other 
hand  he  often  passes  quite  unexpectedly  from  a  lazy  sulkiness, 
into  the  best  of  spirits  by  turning  a  somersault,  and  in  spite 
of  all  self-restraint  and  sagacity,  commits  the  most  serious 
blunders  when  once  his  desires  have  been  attained." 

The  raccoon  not  only  furnishes  a  skin  that  is  valuable,  but  his 
flesh  is  also  eaten  by  many  southern  people.  During  the  latter 
part  of  April  or  Mav  the  mother  will  bring  forth  a  litter  from 
four  to  six  young.  The  home  is  in  some  hollow  tree  or  fallen 
log.  The  young  attain  their  majority  not  earlier  than  two  years, 
but  are  largely  placed  upon  their  own  resources  as  soon  as  they 
are  able  to  depart  from  their  place  of  birth ;  although  the  mother 
will  assist  them  more  or  less  until  the  beginning  of  fall  when  they 
are  able  to  care  for  themselves  without  her  assistance.  It  is  very 
amusing  to  see  the  mother  followed  by  her  offspring  in  search 
of  food,  and  especially  if  the  mother  is  fortunate  in  obtaining 
some  live  animal,  and  under  her  supervision  the  animal  is  teased, 
maltreated  and  finally  devoured  by  the  young. 


114 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


THE  RING  TAIL  CAT. 

(Lat.  Lemur.) 


HIS  species  belongs  to  the  monkey  family  and  is 
the  only  one  in  the  United  States  whose  fur 
skin  has  a  market  value  and  that  is  commer- 
cially used  by  the  fur  trade.  The  animal  in- 
habits the  extreme  southern  parts  of  the 
United  States,  Texas,  southern  part  of  New 
Mexico,  Arizona  and  parts  of  California,  but 
prhicipally  in  Texas  and  Mexico.  From  these 
sections  the  skins  are  distributed  throughort 
the  remaining  states  and  territories,  being 
marketed  in  the  principal  fur-centers  of  the 
United  States,  vast  numbers  reaching  Minne- 
apolis and  many  finding  their  way  to  London 
where  large  numbers  of  skins  are  annually 
offered  at  the  auction  sales. 

Its  feet  raise  the  body,  which  is  twelve  to  fourteen  inches 
long,  about  three  inches  from  the  ground.  The  tail,  in  alternate 
rings  of  black  and  white,  is  the  most  prominent  feature,  not  only 
because  of  its  particular  markings,  but  by  reason  of  its  length 
and  peculiarly  bushy  appearance;  also  that  the  length  corre- 
sponds, or  nearly  so,  with  that  of  the  body.  Its  hands  resemble 
those  of  the  common  monkey  with  almost  perfect  fingers.  The 
color  of  the  body  is  of  a  grey  to  dirty  yellow  intermingled  with 
darker  guard  hairs.  The  belly  portion  is  always  lighter,  and  the 
fur  is  soft  and  absorbs  dye  very  readily. 

Years  ago  there  was  no  demand  for  these  skins,  but  during 
the  past  five  years  manufacturers  who  experimented  with  them, 
found  many  places  where  the  skins  could  be  advantageously  used, 
and  at  present  the  hunter  or  trapper  receives  a  fair  remuneration, 
ranging  from  15c  to  40c  per  skin.  A  full-grown  ring  tail  cat 
will  weigh  three  to  four  pounds. 

Habits  general  characteristics  and  habits  are  like  those  of 

the  monkey,  and  is  closely  related  to  the  lemur  tribe 
of  Madagascar  and  similar  species  in  the  West  Indies.  Natural- 
ists claim  that  this  lemuroid  is  the  connecting  link  between  the 
monkey  and  Marsupialia  family  (pouch  animal),  imagining  them 
to  be  the  successors  of  a  genus  of  unknown  animal  of  the  same 
family  as  the  opossum.  Their  large  eyes  are  especially  adapted 
for  use  at  night  and  their  wdl-developed  ears  and  soft,  thick, 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


115 


woolly  fur,  characterize  the  lemuroids  extremely  as  nocturnal 
animals.  Their  chief  food  is  insects,  frogs,  mice,  also  certain 
vegetables.  Apparently  the  animal  prefers  the  impenetrable 
virgin  wood,  which  1s  rich  in  fruits  and  insects  to  that  of  thei 
ordinary  timber  section  or  open  land. 


From  Original 
Drawing 


THE  RING  TAIL  CAT 


Owned  by 
AnderschrBros. 


THE  OPOSSUM  AND  HEE  FAMILY      From  a  Photograph 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  117 


THE  OPOSSUM. 

(Virginian  Opossum,    Lat,  Didelphys  marsupialis.) 

This  omnivorous  animal  has  also  carnivorous  and  arboreal 
habits  and  belongs  to  the  marsupial  family,  and  in  form  resembles 
a  rat,  some  say  a  pig.  His  head  is  long,  rather  conical,  snout 
long  and  pointed.  The  body  is  stout,  clumsy,  and  especially  so 
during  the  early  winter  months.  The  saying  that  ''a  person  is  as 
fat  as  an  oppossum,''  is  a  true  reflection  to  the  opossum,  as  the 
animal  is  abundantly  possessed  with  surplus  fat  during  the  winter 
months. 

The  body  measures  sixteen  to  twenty  inches  in  length,  with 
a  tail  denuded  of  fur  almost  of  equal  length.  The  tail  is  eminently 
prehensile,  covered  with  scales,  and  that  portion  nearest  the  body 
with  a  slight  growth  of  intermingled  hairs.  The  following  de- 
scription is  taken  from  Audubon: 

''Nails  of  moderate  length,  curved ;  inner  toe  on  the  posterior 
extremities  destitute  of  a  nail  and  opposable  to  the  other  toes, 
thus  forming  a  kind  of  hand.  Tail,  which  may  be  considered  a 
useful  appendage  to  the  legs  in  aiding  the  motions  of  the  animal, 
prehensile  and  very  strong,  but  capable  of  involution  only  on  the 
under  side,  long,  round  and  scaly,  covered  with  a  few  coarse 
hairs  for  a  few  inches  from  the  base,  and  the  remainder  with 
here  and  there  a  hair  scattered  between.  Soles  of  the  hind  feet, 
covered  with  large  tubercles.  The  female  is  furnished  with  a 
pouch  containing  thirteen  mammae  arranged  in  a  circle,  with  one 
in  the  center.'' 

The  animal's  winter  pelage  consists  of  a  coat  of  fur  re- 
sembling in  color  somewhat  that  of  the  badger,  being  of  a  mixed 
character,  consisting  of  an  undergrowth  of  fine,  close,  woolly 
texture  of  whitish  color,  from  which  protrudes  a  less  dense  series 
of  long,  distinct,  thick,  harsh,  rather  brittle-like  hairs ;  the  latter 
always  a  few  shades  darker  and  sometimes  black  tipped.  The 
fur  fibers  are  white  next  to  the  skin,  but  gradually  become  darken 
and  in  sections  the  tips  are  black ;  in  other  sections  of  a  brownish 
or  reddish  cast.  The  young  differ  somewhat  in  color  from  th^ 
old,  are  more  uniformly  lighter  in  color,  but  the  fur  becomes 
darker  and  assumes  its  natural  state  in  the  lapse  of  six  to  nine 
months.  The  meat  is  consumed  by  many  trappers,  especially  so 
by  the  colored  people,  who  prefer  a  fat,  plump,  roasted  opossum 
to  any  other  meat;  the  animal  is  hunted  by  this  race  to  a  great 
extent,  not  only  for  the  meat,  which  they  consider  delicious,  but 
also  for  the  skin,  which,  if  prime,  commands  a  ready  market. 


From  Original  Painting 
Owned  by  Andersch  Bros. 


THE  OPOSSUM 


Southern  States 
One  year  old 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


Habits  animal  is  detested  by  the  agriculturist,  the  fruit- 

grower and  the  poultry  farmer.  Being  a  good  climber 
he  is  able  to  hold  his  weight  by  encircling  the  limb  with  his  tail 
and  springing  from  one  branch  to  another  in  monkey  fashion. 
He  is  slightly  awkward  on  the  ground,  his  movements  apparently 
lazy,  his  walk  plantigrade,  and  at  times  the  running  gait  re- 
sembles a  series  of  ambling  leaps.  His  great  toes  and  hind  paws 
enable  him  to  grasp  and  hold  firmly  to  the  limbs  of  trees,  while 
his  prehensile  tail  assists  the  animal  to  secure  a  desired  position 
and  immunity  from  falls.  He  is  able  to  suspend  himself  by 
means  of  his  tail  for  hours  at  a  time.  His  constant,  fastidious 
appetite  is  not  confined  entirely  to  flesh,  as  the  animal  will  devour 
quantities  of  fruit,  vegetables  and  other  vegetation.  His  favorite 
passages  are  along  fences  and  creeks,  where  the  frogs  afiford  him 
a  tolerable  repast. 

He  is  very  tenacious  of  life,  and  resorts  to  simulation  when 
very  hard  pressed.  At  times  he  will  roll  up  like  a  ball,  at  other 
times  lie  silently,  feigning  death.  Many  a  farmer  in  capturing 
the  thief  in  his  poultry  yard,  gives  the  animal  one  or  more  sharp 
raps  on  the  head  or  body,  knocking  it  down,  in  which  position 
with  open  jaws,  extended  tongue  and  dimmed  eyes,  he  will  feign 
death;  the  farmer  in  many  instances  carries  the  apparently  dead 
opossum  in  the  house,  shows  it  to  the  family  and  lays  it  aside 
with  the  intention  of  skinning,  and  probably  eating  his  meat,  only 
to  find  later  that  he  has  regained  his  liberty.  Apparently  the 
animal  prefers  darkness  to  light.  He  sleeps  through  the  day  in 
the  holes  in  the  earth  or  hollow  trees  and  lives  with  his  mate  only 
during  the  pairing  time,  leading  a  solitary  life  during  the  rest 
of  the  year.  It  has  no  fixed  habitation,  but  uses  any  cranny 
which  it  descries  in  the  morning  after  completing  its  nocturnal 
wanderings.  In  the  early  morning  the  opossum  is  especially 
in  quest  of  some  burrow  inhabited  by  some  weaker  rodent,  thus 
obtaining  food  and  a  day's  rest  without  great  effort,  and  is  free 
of  all  concern  until  the  approach  of  another  night. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


121 


THE  MUSKRAT. 

{ Ger.  Bisamratte,    Lat,  Fiber  zibethicus.) 


^  EARLY  historians  bethought  a  muskrat  to  be 
an  overgrown  water-rat,  but  such  is  not  the  case, 
although  the  above  animal  belongs  to  the  same 
family.  In  their  habits  they  bear  close  relation 
to  the  beaver,  and  certain  Indian  tribes  always 
^  considered  the  beaver  to  belong  to  the  muskrat 
family,  but  being  older  and  somewhat  overgrown.  The  head  and 
body  is  twelve  to  sixteen  inches  long,  and  covered  with  rich, 
brown,  soft  fur,  which  becomes  more  dense  on  the  belly  but 
assumes  a  much  lighter  color  on  that  portion  of  the  body.  In 
appearance  the  fur  is  very  similar  to  that  of  the  beaver,  but 
lacking  in  fineness,  wavy  appearance,  also  in  length.  The  guard 
hairs  are  a  few  shades  darker  and  one-quarter  to  three-eighths 
of  an  inch  longer  than  the  undergrowth  or  fur  fibers  proper. 
Marked  differences  in  size  and  quality  of  the  fur,  due  to  climatic 
and  geographical  variations,  are  notable  characteristics.  The 
muskrats  inhabiting  Wisconsin,  Michigan  and  eastern  states,  also 
eastern  Canada,  are  superior  in  size,  and  the  fur  is  much  richer 
than  those  inhabiting  Minnesota,  Dakota,  Iowa,  Montana  and 
the  western  portion  of  Canada.  Besides  differences  due  to 
climatic  conditions  above  enumerated,  the  color  of  the  fur  varies 
from  a  light  brown  to  an  extreme  black,  also  in  fineness  and 
density.  The  black-furred  musquash  (or  better  known  as  musk- 
rat)  inhabits  a  section  along  the  Atlantic  ocean,  rangmg  irom 
Virginia  to  Connecticut. 

The  body  is  plump  and  rather  cylindrical  in  form,  the  small 
head  is  attached  to  an  extremely  short  and  rather  indistinct  neck ; 
only  the  hind  feet  are  webbed  and  turn  obliquely  inwards.  By 
observing  them  in  action  one  is  reminded  of  the  foot  of  a  duck 
or  goose  when  swimming.  The  tail  is  eight  to  ten  inches  long, 
rather  two-edged  and  rudder-shaped,  and  is  covered  with  scales 
intermingled  with  hair,  the  edges  being  rather  heavily  fringed. 
The  tail  has  no  commercial  value,  and  in  that  respect  differs 
entirely  from  that  of  the  mink,  fisher,  otter  and  other  fur-bearing 
animals,  excepting  the  beaver.  The  hind  feet  are  webbed  and 
used  in  swimming,  the  tail,  when  not  used  as  a  rudder,  lies  mo- 
tionless below  the  level  of  the  water.  The  muskrat  is  an  ex- 
cellent swimmer  and  diver  and  their  endurance  in  water  is  espe- 
cially notable. 


122 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


The  muskrat  is  at  home  in  North  America  and  covers  a  vast 
territory  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  from  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico  to  the  Arctic  regions,  probably  excepting  the  alluvial 
lands  of  Florida,  Alabama,  Georgia,  and,  perhaps  certain  parts 
of  Carolina.  In  winter  time  they  live  in  houses  built  by  them- 
selves in  the  fall  months.  The  home  is  dome-shaped  and  is  built 
from  weeds,  plants,  and  sticks,  that  are  firmly  held  in  place  by 
being  interwoven  and  puttied  together  with  mud,  or  a  peculiar 
sort  of  gluey  substance.  The  entrance  is  below  the  water  surface, 
thus  the  animals  are  protected  against  rough  weather  and  the 
cold.  The  houses  vary  considerably  in  size  and  height ;  while 
some  are  only  six  inches  above  the  water,  others  protrude  three 
to  four  feet  above  the  level.  The  large  houses  are  four  to 
five  feet  in  diameter.  The  muskrat  will  usually  build  his  house  in 
shallow  water,  fifty  to  one  hundred  yards  from  the  shore,  often 
in  marshes  and  ponds.  In  some  places  the  houses  are  built  on 
land,  and  occasionally  their  abode  is  in  hollow  trees  and  in  holes 
made  in  the  earth  close  to  the  shore ;  in  most  cases  the  entrance 
into  such  abodes  is  below  the  water  level. 

Habits  habits  of  the  muskrat  are  strictly  amphibious  and 

nocturnal,  although  it  at  times  becomes  visible  during 
the  daytime,  feeding,  playing  or  swimming  from  one  place  to 
another.  His  food  consists  chiefly  of  grass,  roots,  clams,  mussels, 
flesh,  garden  vegetables  and  fruit,  especially  apples.  The  musk- 
rat  is  very  prolific,  bringing  forth  five  to  ten  young  at  a  birth, 
and  as  often  as  three  times  a  year.  It  seems  that  this  species 
mature  quickly  as  the  female  of  the  first  litter  becomes  pregnant 
and  bears  young  before  the  expiration  of  ten  months,  although 
the  latter  perish  in  large  numbers,  perhaps  more  so  should  the 
winter  be  severe  from  the  start  and  the  food  supply  short;  also 
due  to  their  youth  and  lack  of  judgment  in  getting  away  from 
the  depredations  of  the  mink  and  other  animals.  Their  chief 
enemies  are  the  mink,  otter,  beaver;  but  what  wild  animal  pur- 
suing carnivorous  habits  will  not  consume  the  flesh  of  the  musk- 
rat,  and  most  of  them  relish  the  meat  admirably. 

The  animal  provides  himself  with  a  large  food  supply,  which 
is  gathered  by  all  the  members  of  a  family  during  the  fall  months 
and  carried  by  them  into  their  abode.  This  food  is  stored  on 
special  shelves  provided  for  this  purpose;  other  shelves  are- 
provided  in  their  dome-shaped  houses  upon  which  the  animal 
rests,  sleeps,  or  spends  his  time  while  in  the  abode.  Many  be- 
lieve that  the  animal  remains  in  the  water  constantly,  but  this 
is  not  true.  Should  their  home  be  disturbed,  be  the  intruder  an 
animal  or  trapper,  the  muskrat  will  immediately  plunge  into 
the  water  from  its  resting  place  on  the  shelf  and  depart  into  one 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  123 


of  the  openings  below  the  water  level  and  swim  rapidly  away  to 
some  known  destination,  or  simply  try  to  escape. 

In  the  event  that  the  water  on  the  outside  is  frozen,  artificial 
breathing  is  resorted  to;  this  mode  of  breathing  is  very  inter- 
esting and  particularly  so  to  those  not  acquainted  with  this 
habit.  Under  normal  conditions,  should  the  animal  desire  to 
depart  from  its  abode,  it  makes  a  special  efifort  to  supply  itself 
with  a  quantity  of  fresh  air,  and  immediately  plunges  into  the 
water,  swimming  rapidly  below  the  ice  as  far  as  the  supply  of 
air  permits.  He  will  then  place  his  mouth  and  nose  very  close 
to  the  ice,  lie  perfectly  motionless,  expelling  the  air  from  his 
lungs,  which  immediately  forms  bubbles.  The  air  thus  assumes 
a  fresh  supply  of  oxygen,  and  the  animal  will  swim  from  one 
bubble  to  another,  inhaling  the  fresh  supply  of  air,  and  when  the 
bubbles  are  all  gone,  depart  for  its  destination.  This  operation  is 
repeated  every  two  or  three  minutes.  Should  the  animal  be  dis- 
turbed while  in  the  act  of  breathing  and  be  separated  from  the 
supply  of  fresh  air,  he  will  drown.  Hunters  and  trappers  ac- 
quainted with  this  artificial  breathing  on  the  part  of  the  muskrat, 
will  often  rob  the  animal  of  his  air.    The  operation  is  as  follows : 

When  the  ice  is  of  sufficient  thickness,  the  trapper  with  a  cane 
will  slowly  walk  to  one  of  these  dome-shaped  abodes,  and  with 
his  stick,  give  it  one  or  more  sharp  raps.  If  the  house  is  in- 
habited, he  will  hear  a  splash  when  the  animal  plunges  from  the 
shelf  into  the  water.  With  his  eye  he  will  follow  the  course  of' 
the  animal,  and  just  as  soon  as  the  muskrat  is  in  want  of  a  fresh 
supply  of  air,  he  will  permit  it  to  rise  next  to  the  ice,  when  he 
will  separate  the  animal  from  the  air  by  disturbing  it  while  in 
the  operation  of  breathing.  The  muskrat,  of  course,  will  depart 
immediately,  but  only  for  a  short  distance,  when  he  again  seekb 
to  obtain  air;  the  trapper  follows,  repeating  his  operation  and 
probably  by  the  third  attempt,  the  muskrat,  deprived  of  air,  will 
drown.  All  this  takes  place  in  a  few  moments.  The  drowned 
muskrat  will  of  course  float  next  to  the  ice,  when  the  trapper 
makes  a  hole  and  removes  the  body. 

Their  houses  are  so  constructed  that  this  method  of  artificial 
breathing  is  not  resorted  to,  as  a  sufficient  supply  of  fresh  air 
prevails  the  year  round.  The  abode  must  be  very  warm  as  the 
water  therein  does  not  become  frozen.  Presumably  the  animal 
has  some  way  of  keeping  the  water  from  freezing  in  the  abode; 
otherwise  they  would  be  prisoners  since  the  only  openings  are 
below  the  water  level. 


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Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


125 


THE  BEAVER. 

( Ger,  Biber,  Lat,  Castor  Hher,) 

HE  beaver  in  duration  of  his  instinctive  type,  is 
one  of  the  oldest  animals,  and  seemingly  his 
coarse  substistence,  rugged  strength,  aquatic 
habits  and  prolific  nature,  eminently  fitted  him 
for  just  such  a  career  upon  this  earth.  He  is 
of  notable  interest  to  the  human  family,  and 
besides  furnishing  us  with  his  pelt  and  his 
peculiar  secretion  known  as  castoreum,  we  ad- 
mire his  constant,  energetic  and  intelligent  skill  in  the  pursuit 
of  his  daily  occupation  and  highly  developed  architectural  ability 
in  the  construction  of  his  home  and  the  ''beaver  dam." 

The  American  and  European  beaver  are  closely  related,  also 
to  that  found  in  Asia.  In  comparing  the  American  with  the 
European  species,  no  marked  outward  differences  are  discernible. 
Scientists  who  have  devoted  much  time  and  energy  to  this 
subject,  after  anatomical  dissection,  state  that  there  are  differ- 
ences, that  the  contrast  is  principally  in  the  skull  and  castor 
sacs,  and  not  in  the  general  construction  and  size  of  body,  head, 
feet  and  tail.  The  general  belief  that  these  dififerences,  slight  a$k 
they  are,  were  due  entirely  to  climatic  and  geographical  con- 
ditions, is  apparently  punctured  by  the  aforesaid  statement  of 
the  scientists. 

The  beaver  is  a  rodent,  possesses  gregarious,  amphibious  and 
nocturnal  habits,  and  by  nature  is  a  burrowing  animal.  Appended 
is  summary  given  by  Mr.  Morgan  in  his  "American  Beaver,"  of 
three  beavers  captured  in  1866,  during  the  months  of  February, 
March  and  April,  near  Lake  Superior. 

Male    Female  Female 
Weight   .32  lbs.  295^  lbs.  36  lbs. 


Length  from  tip  of  nose  to  end  of  tail . . 

.  .42.25 

42.25 

42. 

••  9-75 

10. 

10.50 

Circumference  of  head  before  ears  

.  .14. 

13- 

"          behind  ears   

•  •  14-50 

15-50 

14-25 

"          behind  shoulders   

,  .20. 

19. 

21.50 

"          middle  of  abdomen   

.  .26.50 

24. 

27.25 

"          before  hips   

•  •25. 

22.50 

24.50 

"          root  of  scaly  tail  

..  7. 

6. 

8. 

"          middle  of  scaly  tail  

..  8.50 

8-75 

10.50 

The  principal  food  of  this  animal  is  the  bark  of  deciduous 
trees,  also  the  wood  itself ;  at  times  consumes  coarse  grass,  pond 


Mounted.  Owned 
by  Andersch  Bros. 


THE  BEAVER 


Full-grown.  Feb. 
or  Karly  March 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  127 


lillies,  etc.  The  male  attains  a  greater  size  than  the  female,  and 
to  determine  the  sex  of  the  beaver  from  the  outward  appearance 
is  difficult,  as  they  are  monotrematous  and  there  is  nothing  from 
their  outward  appearance  to  indicate  the  difference  in  sex.  It 
will  be  observed  from  the  above  table  tnat  the  average  weight  of 
the  beaver  is  from  thirty  to  forty  pounds,  the  length  of  the  body 
from  thirty-two  to  thirty-eight  inches,  and  the  tail,  which  has 
a  scaly  appearance,  from  nine  to  eleven  inches  long.  Much 
larger  specimens  have  been  received  fromi  the  western  states,  also 
parts  of  Canada,  and  one  male  beaver  in  particular  coming  from 
Montana  weighed  fifty-eight  pounds  and  the  measurement  of 
the  body  was  proportionately  larger. 

The  four  incisors  are  extremely  long,  and  are  conspicuously 
used  by  the  animal  in  severing  roots,  when  burrowing  below  the 
earth,  also  in  cutting  trees,  as  will  be  observed  by  the  illustration 
of  Beaver  Cuttings  in  connection  with  this  article.  The  eyes 
are  very  small,  and  their  small  ears  adhere  closely  to  the  body 
and  are  almost  indiscernible.  His  sense  of  hearing  and  smell  is 
acute,  while  that  of  sight  is  of  short  range.  The  animal  does 
not  rely  much  upon  his  sight  unless  the  objects  are  at  closo 
range. 

The  body  bears  close  resemblance  to  that  of  the  muskrat, 
only  on  a  larger  scale.  It  is  thick  and  clumsy,  gradually  en- 
larging from  the  head,  and  is  largest  around  center  of  abdomen, 
from  which  point  the  body  gradually  tapers  in  both  directions, 
probably  more  forward,  and  the  rear  is  somewhat  abruptly 
rounded  off  at  the  root  of  the  tail.  The  fore  feet  are  rather 
slender  with  toes  that  are  well  separated  and  flexible,  and  in 
appearance  resemble  hands.  The  claws  or  nails  in  the  front  feet 
are  sharp,  strong,  compressed  and  channelled  beneath.  The 
middle  toe  is  longest,  and  those  on  each  side  a  little  shorter. 
The  under  and  inner  ones  are  the  shortest.  The  hind  feet  bear 
close  resemblance  to  those  of  the  goose,  being  webbed  beyond 
the  roots  of  the  nails  and  have  hard  calloused  soles,  which  are 
especially  adapted  for  the  required  aquatic  habits  and  give  the 
animal  excellent  propelling  power.  While  swimming  the  fore 
feet  are  closely  pressed  back  against  the  abdomen  and  are  ol 
no  use  in  its  swimming  operation.  These  feet  or  hands  are 
capable  of  very  considerable  rotary  movements  and  are  made  of 
especial  use  by  the  animal  in  holding  sticks,  limbs  and  trees, 
and  in  and  with  them,  carries  stones,  mud,  sod,  etc.,  from  one 
place  to  another,  but  in  this  operation  the  mouth  is  of  great 
necessary  assistance. 

The  most  noteworthy  part  of  the  beaver  is  the  tail,  though 
of  no  commercial  value.    The  tail,  spade  or  trowel,  is  of  oval 


128 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


shape,  flattened  on  upper  and  lower  sides,  and  is  from  nine  to 
eleven  inches  long  and  attains  a  width  of  jfive  to  six  inches  at 
its  greatest  breadth.  It  leaves  the  body  in  a  cylindrical  form, 
perhaps  one  and  one-half  inches  in  diameter,  although  immedi- 
ately upon  its  descent  becomes  flattened.  The  tip  or  extreme 
end  is  of  a  semi-circular  shape  and  the  entire  edges  are  hard 
permitting  the  animal  to  use  this  member  rather  roughly  without 
endangering  the  inner  or  flesh  part.  The  entire  tail  is  covered 
with  a  sort  of  six-cornered  scale,  intermingled  with  a  slight 
hairy  growth.  These  scales,  which  are  such  in  appearance  only, 
cover  the  entire  surface  both  above  and  below,  and  are  arranged 
in  respect  to  length  in  the  so-called  quincunx  form,  diminishing 
in  size  towards  the  end.  Their  numbers  are  nineteen  to  twenty 
and  twenty  to  twenty-one  on  the  under  surface,  of  the  extreme 
wider  portion.  The  skin  of  this  member  is  tough,  and  upon 
being  tanned  one  finds  that  these  scaly  substances  are  nothing 
more  than  longitudinal  divisions,  merely  dips  or  depressions, 
and  not  scales,  as  that  term  is  understood,  having  in  mind  the 
scales  of  a  fish.  The  tail  is  of  no  great  value  to  the  animal  out 
of  water,  but  while  swimming  acts  as  a  rudder  or  propeller  and 
tends  to  direct  the  movements  of  the  body  and  assist  the  animal 
while  diving,  or  to  elevate  or  depress  the  head  while  swimming. 
It  is  also  used  to  give  signals  of  alarm  to  its  mate,  and  the 
violence  of  the  blow  in  the  water  is  shown  by  the  spray  that 
is  thrown  up  two  or  three  feet. 

The  nose  is  small  and  within  it  there  is  a  skin  having  a  gate- 
like appearance  which  prevents  the  beaver  from  inhaling  or 
partaking  water.  The  pelage  of  the  beaver  resembles  that  of 
the  muskrat  in  color,  but  the  fur  fibers  are  much  finer,  denser, 
wavy,  longer  and  of  greater  strength.  The  outer,  or  guard  hairs 
are  coarse  and  their  length  predominates  one-half  to  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  above  the  fur  fibers.  The  former,  instead 
of  beautifying  the  fur  pelt  as  they  do  on  the  otter,  mink,  fox 
and  even  the  muskrat,  tends  to  decrease  and  diminish  their  value 
and  appearance;  therefore  the  tanner  or  dresser  removes  these 
hairs  by  a  process  called  plucking,  which  leaves  a  fairly  light 
brown  or  dark  surface  resembling  somewhat  the  color  of  the 
otter.  The  contrast  in  the  color  of  its  outward  fur  during  the 
winter  months  is  discernable  between  animals  inhabiting  the  va- 
rious sections.  Those  in  the  southwestern  states  along  the 
Rocky  mountains,  Colorado  and  Wyoming  are  of  a  reddish  cast, 
especially  is  this  color  prominent  about  the  legs  and  belly  portion. 
The  color  of  the  fur  of  animals  inhabiting  Montana,  western' 
Dakota  and  parts  of  Idaho,  is  pale.  This  pale,  or  silvery  color 
prevails  not  only  on  the  under  guard  hairs,  but  also  on  the  fur 


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129 


fibers.  The  further  north  one  goes  the  darker  is  the  fur  of  the 
beaver.  Have  seen  skins  from  the  northern  part  of  Canada 
that  are  as  dark  as  the  darkest  of  otters.  In  texture  the  fur  of 
the  dark  beaver  is  finer  but  not  quite  so  dense,  as  in  the  case  of 
animals  inhabiting  Montana. 

Formerly  the  beaver  was  found  in  most  of  the  states  and 
territories,  but  of  late  years  he  has  become  so  scarce,  notwith- 
standing the  rigid  laws,  that  it  is  safe  to  say  that  only  a  question 
of  a  few  years  remain  until  the  animal  will  be  totally  extinct 
in  this  country.  His  home  is  naturally  in  the  forests,  about  lakes 
or  streams  and  his  habit  of  making  dams  and  retaining  the 
supply  of  water  is  elsewhere  explained. 

Brehm  relates  that  beaver  cultivation  was  already  in  progress 
as  early  as  1773,  and  that  the  animal's  life  is  prolonged  to  the 
remarkable  limit  of  fifty  years.  There  are  numerous  beaver 
farms  in  this  country  but  the  cultivation  and  increase  is  slow  and 
tiresome.  If  the  place  is  suitable  the  business  is  a  profitable  one. 
Habits  During  the  fall,  winter  and  spring  months  the  beaver 
can  be  found  about  the  rivers,  also  lakes,  especially 
at  or  near  some  inlet  or  outlet.  During  the  month  of  September 
the  beaver,  like  the  bees  during  the  gathering  season,  are  busy- 
bodies.  A  popular  saying,  ''work  like  a  beaver,''  is  only  too 
true  of  this  animal,  for  in  the  making  of  their  homes,  laying  in 
roots,  herbs,  bark  and  wood,  also  in  the  building  and  repairing 
of  dams  he  is  kept  busy  almost  the  entire  time  and  up  until  the 
approach  of  severe  winter.  The  huts,  or  beaver  houses,  as 
commonly  known,  are  dome-shaped,  being  made  out  of  sticks, 
brushes  or  weeds,  and  cemented  together  with  mud,  dirt,  slime 
and  other  similar  materials.  Their  houses  are  similarly  con- 
structed and  in  appearance  resemble  the  home  of  the  muskrat, 
although  much  larger,  and  sometimes  the  dome  or  upper  part 
protrudes  out  of  the  water  three  to  four  feet.  The  houses 
are  usually  roomy,  and  of  sufficient  size  to  hold  anywhere  from 
four  to  sixteen  animals.  Some  trappers,  also  naturalists,  claim 
as  many  as  thirty  beavers  occupy  one  house,  but  the  author 
believes  that  this  is  exaggerated  or  was  caused  by  unusual 
conditions,  and  that  at  the  present  time  seldom  more  than  eight 
to  twelve  inhabitants  are  found  to  occupy  one  of  these  huts  dur- 
ing the  daytime.  The  entrance  to  these  homes  is  on  the  bottom 
and  always  below  the  water  level.  Some  years  the  home  is 
built  in  deeper  water  than  in  other  years,  and  trappers  believe 
that  such  location  has  more  or  less  to  do  in  the  forecasting  of 
the  coming  summer,  as  to  whether  the  season  will  be  a  dry  or 
a  wet  one.  This  may  be  superstition,  but  the  probable  forecast 
seems  true.    Some  beavers   C.bank  beavers)  neglect  to  build 


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houses,  but  make  their  homes  by  digging  holes  into  the  banks 
of  rivers  or  lakes.  Such  entrances  are  always  below  the  level  of 
the  water. 

The  building  of  beaver  dams  is  not  only  remarkable,  but  the 
construction  and  manipulation  is  such  that  human  hands  with 
like  material  could  scarcely  improve.  These  dams  are  usually 
built  where  insufificient  water  prevails  and  are  of  apparent  neces- 
sity to  the  welfare  of  the  beaver.  The  increased  and  steady 
supply  of  water  that  these  dams  afford,  gives  to  them  the  re- 
quired playground,  protection  against  the  severeness  of  winter 


Beaver  Cuttings 


and  protects  their  food  supply ;  also  materially  assists  them  in 
their  occupation.  That  this  species  requires  a  reasonable  depth 
and  area  of  water,  is  well  known,  and  seemingly  will  not  do  well 
in  localities  where  the  water  is  shallow.  Shallow^  water  retards 
the  animal  in  the  swimming,  and  diving  habit ;  also  offers 
obstacles  to  their  method  of  carrying  logs,  branches,  roots,  etc., 
either  for  the  construction  of  their  home,  repairing  of  dams  or 
for  their  food  supply.  Besides  this  the  forethought  that  shallow 
water  may  freeze  to  the  ground,  in  which  case  the  animal  would 
be  caught  and  unable  to  escape.    The  dams  naturally  stretch 


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131 


from  one  side  of  the  river  to  another,  and  are  often  one  hundred 
to  two  hundred  yards  in  length,  being  from  two  to  twelve  feet 
high,  four  to  six  feet  thick  on  the  bottom,  and  ranging  to  a  width 
of  two  to  three  feet  on  top.  The  latter  is  leveled  off  very  nicely 
causing  an  even  overflow.  The  length,  thickness,  height  and  man- 
ner of  construction  depends  upon  natural  conditions,  as  some 
dams  are  only  five  yards  long  and  should  the  water  flow  slowly, 
are  only  two  feet  thick  at  the  bottom  and  about  six  inches  on  top. 
Some  dams  are  built  straight  across,  others  have  a  convex  curve 
leading  up  stream.  The  latter  is  usually  constructed  where  the 
current  is  swift.  Other  dams,  besides  crossing  the  stream,  are 
contniued  on  land  and  constructed  in  a  semi-circular  shape,  and 
the  end  reaches  the  river  on  a  higher  elevation ;  the  result  is 
the  formation  of  a  bay  and  the  backing  of  water,  and  as  one 
travels  through  the  country  he  will  often  notice  alluvial  mead- 
ows caused  by  these  dams.  At  times  the  beaver  will  cut  down 
one  or  more  trees  in  such  a  manner  that  the  trunk  will  fall 
directly  in  the  place  where  the  dam  is  desired,  and  this  trunk 
forms  the  nucleus  in  the  building  operation. 

Often  numerous  dams  are  to  be  found  in  one  vicinity.  This 
is  due  to  one  or  the  other  sex  of  the  offspring  bringing  his  or 
her  mate  to  its  former  home,  where  a  new  dam  either  below  or 
above  the  original  one  is  built.  When  the  young  attain  an  age 
of  three  years  they  depart  from  their  parents  and  after  they 
have  mated  build  a  dam  for  themselves  and  their  expected  famiily. 
Trappers  and  naturalists  state  that  in  this  operation  the  parents 
are  of  great  assistance  to  their  youthful  and  probably  inex- 
perienced offspring.  This  again  is  denied  by  careful  observers. 
The  dams  are  constructed  out  of  short  logs,  brush,  stones,  grass, 
dirt,  etc.  Entire  trees  eight  to  twelve  inches  in  diameter  are 
rapidly  felled,  the  beaver  cutting  same  down  with  his  teeth, 
generally  in  such  manner  that  the  tree  will  fall  towards  the  river. 
After  a  tree  is  felled,  it  is  cut  into  small  pieces  from  four  to 
six  feet  long,  the  length  depending  somewhat  upon  the  thick- 
ness and  weight  of  the  piece  and  the  purpose  for  which  it  isl 
intended ;  these  are  conveyed  to  the  river,  eich  animal  taking 
its  own  burden.  Some  will  take  logs,  others  brushes,  sticks, 
weeds,  stores,  dirt,  etc.,  while  some  are  kept  busy  by  inter- 
mingling, binding  and  fastening  the  materials  together.  The 
female  is  the  most  active  builder  and  is  usually  consigned  to 
the  job  of  constructing,  while  the  males  will  bring  the  material 
to  the  desired  location. 

Although  not  exclusively  nocturnal  in  his  habits,  the  beaver 
performs  the  principal  part  of  his  work  at  night.  That  he  is 
of  shy  and  timid  disposition  cannot  be  denied,  and  if  disturbed 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  133 


will  soon  decamp  from  his  location.  He  is  socially  inclined  and 
this  disposition  is  manifested  in  their  strongly  developed  pro- 
pensities to  dwell  and  live  in  the  family  relation.  This  is  also 
corroborated  by  the  numerous  inhabitants  of  a  given  locality,  and 
the  many  assistants  in  the  building  of  their  lodges,  burrows 
and  dams ;  also  in  the  providing  of  their  winter  supply  of 
food. 

The  breeding  or  mating  season  begins  as  early  as  March 
in  the  southern  states  and  as  late  as  May  in  the  extreme 
northern  climates.  The  female  brings  forth  from  two  to  five 
young  during  the  month  of  May,  June  and  as  late  as  the  fore 
part  of  July  in  the  extreme  northern  climates.  A  beaver  family 
consists  of  a  male  and  female,  and  their  offspring  of  the  first 
and  .  second  years.  The  mother  will  nourish  the  young  for  a 
few  weeks,  after  which  time  the  latter  take  to  bark.  The  animal 
is  full-grown  in  about  three  years,  and  their  life  in  the  wild 
state  is  prolonged  from  ten  to  twenty  years. 

The  experience  of  a  trapper  as  related  by  Mr.  Morgan  per- 
taining to  the  peculiar  cry  of  the  young  beaver,  which  resembles 
that  of  a  child  of  a  few  days  old,  is  repeated:  He  was  going 
to  his  traps  when  he  heard  a  cry  which  he  was  sure  was  that 
of  a  child ;  and  fearing  the  presence  of  an  Indian  camp,  he 
crept  in  cautiously  through  the  cotton-wood  to  the  bank  of 
the  stream,  where  he  discovered  two  young  beavers  upon  a 
low  bank  of  earth  near  the  water,  crying  for  their  mother, 
whom  he  afterwards  found  in  one  of  his  traps.  Mr.  Mor- 
gan's own  experience  is  as  follows:  ''On  one  occasion  I  was 
similarly  deceived  in  an  Indian  lodge  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Yellowstone  River,  where  a  young  beaver  was  lapping  milk 
from  a  saucer  while  an  Indian  baby  was  pulling  its  fur.  It 
was  not  until  after  several  repetitions  that  I  noticed  that  it 
was  the  cry  of  the  beaver  instead  of  the  child.'' 

That  the  beaver,  after  they  attain  a  mature  age  are  sensitive, 
in  that  respect  resembling  the  human  family,  is  expressed  by 
many  trappers  and  believed  by  them  as  well  as  the  Indians. 
Should  the  father  or  mother  die,  or  be  captured,  the  grief  of  the 
remaining  one  at  times  is  so  great  that  he  or  she  will  refuse 
to  pair,  and  begins  a  solitary  life  which  is  continued  until 
death.  The  animal  migrates  from  place  to  place,  especially 
when  one  district  becomes  too  thickly  settled ;  at  other  times  his 
migration  is  forced  upon  him  by  the  country  becoming  pop- 
ulated. •  ^  - 

The  animal  can  swim  under  water  a  distance  not  exceed- 
ing one-fourth  of  a  mile  when  its  supply  of  air  becomes  ex- 
hausted.   There  is  quite  a  difference  in  the  opinion  of  trappers 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  "Wrappers  Guide. 

as  to  the  durability  and  length  of  time  the  animal  can  remain 
below  water  without  a  supply  of  fresh  air.  Observation  would 
indicate  that  two  to  three  minutes  is  the  average  time.  An 
incident  is  recited  where  a  trapper  held  a  captured  beaver  below 
the  water  for  ten  minutes,  feeling  assured  in  that  time  the 
animal's  life  would  be  extinguished,  but  such  was  not  the  case. 

One  should  observe  and  study  the  accompanying  illustrations 
of  this  article,  especially  the  ones  pertaining  to  the  beaver  cut- 
tings and  the  location  of  the  castorium  and  oil  bags,  probably 
better  known  as  bark  and  oil  stones. 

The  value  of  the  pelt  differs,  depending  upon  the  locality, 
size  of  the  skin,  time  of  year,  and  upon  the  demand  and  fashion. 
Tables  containing  prices  for  a  period  of  years  will  be  noted 
elsewhere.  The  castor  bags,  when  properly  dried,  bring .  $6.00 
to  $9.50  per  pound.  The  contents  are  used  for  medicinal  as 
well  as  perfume  purposes,  and  are  bought  by  the  fur  dealer, 
who  in  turn  disposes  of  same  to  the  manufacturer.  The  pelt, 
after  it  is  tanned  and  plucked,  is  used  for  ladies  as  well  as  for 
gentlemen's  wearing  apparel.  Its  high  cost  prevents  its  common 
use,  also  tends  to  bring  forth  low  priced  imitations,  such  as 
nutra,  raccoon  and  at  times  coneys.  The  latter  are  shorn  and 
blended  so  as  to  resemble  the  beaver.  The  small  pieces  or 
offals  of  beaver  trimmings  are  disposed  of  to  hat  manufacturers. 

THE  OTTER. 

( Ger.  Land  or  Fisch  Otter,  Lat.  Lntra  canadensis.) 

HE  land  otter  on  this  continent  like  all  fur  bearing 
animals  that  are  indiscriminately  distributed 
amongst  the  states  and  territories,  also  Canada, 
as  is  the  otter,  cannot  but  show  a  marked  contrast 
in  the  size  of  the  animal  and  color  of  its  furred 
pelt.  Naturalists  claim  as  many  as  twenty  dif- 
ferent species,  but  all  resemble  each  other  very 
closely.  On  this  continent  we  have  only  one  species,  but  the  fur 
trade  sub-divides  the  otter  into  three  geographical  types — the 
northern  otter,  the  southern  otter  and  the  Pacific  coast  otter. 
The  former  is  found  in  the  northern  parts  of  the  United  States, 
in  Canada  and  Alaska.  The  southern  otter,  as  the  name  im- 
plies, inhabits  the  southern  states,  particularly  Florida,  Georgia, 
Alabama  and  the  Carolinas,  and  portions  of  Texas.  The  Pacific 
coast  otter  is  found  along  the  Pacific  coast  from  Mexico  extend- 
ing along  California,  Oregon  and  sometimes  those  captured  along 


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the  coast  of  British  Columbia  are  classed  and  marketed  as  Pacific 
coast  otters.  The  Alaska  otter  differs  somewhat  from  the  other 
species,  but  those  inhabiting  the  numerous  islands,  resemble  the 
Pacific  coast  otter  very  much,  while  those  of  the  inland  are  classed 
as  northern  otters. 

The  otter  is  generally  distributed  over  North  America  ap- 
parently nowhere  in  great  abundance,  but  years  ago  was  ab- 
solutely wanting  in  few,  if  any,  localities  adapted  to  its  habits. 
Due  to  the  high  price  of  the  skin  the  otter  is  zealously  hunted 
and  has  become  extinct  in  many  localities.  It  is  safe  to  say 
that  the  otter  is  gradually  disappearing,  and  like  the  beaver 
will  become  extinct,  notwithstanding  the  laws  that  give  the  ani- 
mal protection. 

The  otter  is  peculiar  in  its  construction,  resembling  some- 
what the  mink  and  the  marten,  only  in  magnified  appearance. 
The  ears  are  small,  well  rounded  and  almost  hidden  from  view 
by  the  long  and  glossy  fur.  The  head  is  broad  and  fiat  on  top, 
consequently  the  ears  are  wide  apart.  The  nose  is  stubby, 
rather  broad,  well  rounded  and  remarkably  well  developed.  The 
small  eyes  are  rather  forward,  nearer  to  the  muzzle  than  to 
the  ear  and  deeply  set  in  the  skull.  The  body  is  plump,  thick, 
and  long,  and  during  the  winter  covered  with  short,  dense,  silky 
and  glossy  fur.  The  undergrowth  resembles  that  of  the  beaver, 
but  is  more  silky,  equally  as  wavy,  and  adheres  to  the  skin  in 
a  more  dense  form  and  is  perhaps  somewhat  lighter  in  color, 
especially  on  prime  skins  from  the  extreme  northern  regions, 
which  in  outward  appearances  are  extremely  dark,  while  the 
fur  fibres  next  to  the  skin  are  very  light,  almost  of  whitish 
color.  The  guard  hairs  are  rather  coarse  in  sections,  glossy, 
varying  in  color  from  a  brown  to  an  extreme  dark  or  black. 
These  coarse  hairs  are  by  no  means  harsh,  on  the  other  hand 
are  soft,  pliable,  dense  and  evenly  distributed  all  over  the  body. 
There  is  probably  no  better  wearing  fur  than  the  otter,  espec- 
ially in  its  natural  state.  Only  poorly  furred  skins,  or  those 
coming  from  the  southern  states  are  plucked.  The  others  are 
left  in  their  natural  state  as  plucking  would  diminish  their  beauty 
and  value. 

The  short  fore  limb  is  succeeded  by  a  stout  wrist  and  broad 
fiat  hand.  The  fingers  are  very  short  and  when  divaricated, 
their  tips  describe  merely  a  semi-circle  around  the  center  of 
the  palm.  The  toes  are  almost  completely  webbed  by  mem- 
branes reaching  well  within  the  center  of  the  palm.  The  upper 
part  of  the  hand  or  foot  is  covered  with  a  hairy  or  fur  forma- 
tion while  the  lower  part  of  the  foot  is  naked.  As  above  stated 
the  feet  are  stout  and  short  and  closely  attached  to  the  extreme 


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137 


sides  of  the  body,  thus  the  walking  on  land  is  more  of  a  hardship 
than  pleasure  and  its  travel  awkward,  being  of  waddly  appear- 
ance. If  in  danger  the  otter  is  likely  to  increase  his  speed  of 
locomotion  on  land  to  a  remarkably  rapid  gait,  and  the  pursuer 
is  obliged  to  run  in  order  to  keep  up  with  him.  The  claws  are 
similar  on  both  hind  and  fore  feet,  being  short,  stout  and  some- 
what arched.  Perhaps  those  of  the  fore  feet  are  somewhat 
larger  and  sharper  and  more  curved  than  those  of  the  rear  feet. 

The  tail,  which  is  two  to  three  inches  in  diameter  at  the 
root,  is  quite  well  rounded,  but  becomes  flattened  as  it  tapers 
gradually  to  a  true  point  in  its  descent.  It  attains  a  total  length 
of  fourteen  to  eighteen  inches,  depending  somewhat  upon  the 
size  of  the  animal.  The  member  is  completely  furred  with 
fibers  resembling  those  of  the  body.  The  fur  is  very  dense  and 
diminishes  in  length  as  it  nears  the  tip.  The  upper  portion 
possesses  a  coat  of  very  dense  fur  and  is  always  two  or  three 
shades  darker  than  that  of  the  body. 

The  body  is  extremely  slender  and  few  animals  vary  more 
in  stature  than  does  the  otter.  The  average  size  of  the  northern 
otter  is  from  thirty-four  to  forty  inches  from  nose  to  root  of 
tail.  Much  larger  specimens  are  occasionally  captured,  and  one 
in  particular  that  was  received  from  British  Columbia  measured 
fifty-one  inches,  its  tail  nineteen  inches,  or  a  total  of  seventy 
inches.  The  animal  from  which  this  skin  came  must  certainly 
have  weighed  forty-five  pounds  or  more.  The  usual  weight  of 
matured  northern  otters  is  from  thirty-five  to  forty  pounds ; 
that  of  the  southern  or  middle  states,  twenty-five  to  thirty 
pounds.  The  usual  difiference  in  size  between  the  male  and  fe- 
male exist;  the  latter  is  one-fifth  to  one- fourth  smaller.  The 
following  measurements  by  Dr.  Coues,  taken  from  the  govern- 
ment records,  is  corroborative,  especially  since  his  measurements 
are  taken  from  eastern  or  probably  middle  state  species : 

"Some  individuals  are,  in  round  terms,  twice  as  large  and 
heavy  as  others  apparently  equally  mature,  and,  at  any  rate,  cap- 
able of  reproduction.  An  average  total  length  of  full-grown 
individuals  is  four  to  four  and  one-half  feet;  some  specimens 
however  touching  five  feet,  while  others  fall  short  of  the  first- 
named  dimensions.  The  species  appear  to  grow  several  years 
after  puberty.  Nose  to  root  of  tail  three  feet ;  tail  one  and  one- 
half  feet ;  nose  to  eye,  one  and  three-quarters  to  two  inches ;  nose 
to  ear  three  and  one-half  to  four  inches ;  ear  less  than  an  inch 
high,  and  about  as  broad ;  fore  foot  from  wrist  three  and  one- 
half  inches ;  hind  foot  four  inches ;  girth  of  body  about  one  and 
one-half  feet ;  stature  a  foot  or  less ;  weight  ordinarily  twenty 
to  twenty-five  pounds.    I  have  recognized  no  particular  sexual 


138 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


dififerences,  though  the  female  may,  as  usual  in  this  family, 
average  smaller  than  the  male/' 

Habits  often  that  the  hunter  or  trapper  is  able 

to  observe  the  otter,  consequently  his  habits  are  not 
thoroughly  known.  The  Almighty  Creator  willed  it  that  the 
animal  become  an  excellent  swimmer  and  diver  and  to  confine 
himself  largely  to  the  water.  The  construction  of  its  body, 
limbs,  dense  fur  and  long  tail,  gives  the  animal  the  desired 
facilities  to  remain  in  the  water  for  a  long  period.  He  is  known 
to  swim  miles  under  water,  also  to  dive  in  deep  or  shallow  water 
from  high  distances.  His  home  is  in  various  sized  rivers  and 
other  bodies  of  fresh  water.  Its  swiftness  enables  it  to  catch 
fish  with  remarkable  ease,  and  at  times  is  known  to  wantonly 
kill  large  numbers  for  the  simple  pleasure  it  gives  him.  Their 
principal  food  is  confined  to  fish;  if  these  are  unobtainable,  the 
otter  will  devour  the  flesh  of  muskrats  and  other  procurable 
meats.  Instances  are  recited  where  the  animal  captured  wild 
ducks  which  were  taken  into  his  abode  and  there  devoured. 
Audubon  relates  that  he  had  one  or  more  otters  in  confinement 
and  when  no  fish  could  be  procured,  were  fed  upon  beef  which 
they  always  preferred  boiled.  ''During  the  last  winter  we  ascer- 
tained that  the  collection  of  feathers  of  a  wild  duck  were  taken 
from  the  banks  of  a  rice  field  reserve-dam.  It  was  conjectured 
that  the  duck  had  either  been  killed  or  wounded  by  the  hunter 
and  was  in  this  state  seized  by  the  otter.'' 

Their  fondness  for  speckled  and  brook  trout  causes  them 
to  frequent  clear  water  and  rapid-flowing  streams.  The  animal  is 
also  known  to  travel  on  land  for  long  distances  in  search  of 
lakes  or  streams  or  to  habitually  migrate  from  one  lake  or 
stream  to  that  of  another.  Quite  often  in  these  travels  they 
become  victims,  being  killed  by  hunters,  farmers,  or  are  cap- 
tured and  devoured  by  such  animal  as  the  wolf.  Mr.  Richard- 
son, one  of  the  earliest  authors,  in  writing  about  the  Canadian 
otter,  states  as  follows : 

'Tn  the  winter  season  it  frequents  rapids  and  falls,  to  have 
the  advantage  of  open  water;  and  when  its  usual  haunts  are 
frozen  over  it  will  travel  to  a  great  distance  over  the  snow  in 
search  of  a  rapid  that  has  resisted  the  severity  of  the  weather. 
If  seen,  and  pursued  by  hunters  on  these  journeys,  it  will  throw 
itself  forward  on  its  belly  and  slide  through  the  snow  for  sev- 
eral yards,  leaving  a  deep  furrow  behind  it.  This  movement 
is  repeated  with  so  much  rapidity  that  even  a  swift  runner  on 
snowshoes  has  much  trouble  in  overtaking  it.  It  also  doubles 
on  its  track  with  much  cunning  and  dives  under  the  snow  to 


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139 


elude  its  pursuers.  When  closely  pressed  it  will  turn  and  defend 
itself  with  great  obstinacy." 

Its  numerous  slides  are  seen  on  banks  of  rivers,  and,  in  some 
cases,  on  lakes,  and  it  formerly  afforded  great  pleasure  to  the 
Indians  and  the  early  hunters  to  watch  the  otter  sliding  down 
these  embankments;  diving  and  swimming  sometimes  a  short 
distance  while  at  other  times  a  long  distance,  only  to  regain  the 
shore  and  the  uppermost  portion  of  the  slide  to  repeat  the  oper- 
ation. 

Some  naturalists  claim  that  the  breeding  season  is  not  speci- 
fic or  timely.  Others  claim  positively  that  the  mother  brings 
forth  her  young  during  the  month  of  April  or  May.  By  close 
observation  and  inquiry  it  is  found  that  the  season  varies  con- 
siderably, especially  in  the  different  climates,  but  seldom  is 
beyond  the  loth  of  May  and  likewise  before  March  isth. 

THE  SEA  OTTER. 

( Ger.  See-Otter,  Lat.  Enhydris  lutris.) 

N  all  the  many  years  I  have  devoted  to  "Fur  Bear- 
ing Animals  and  their  Skins,''  I  have  not  laid  eyes 
upon  a  living  sea  otter  and  to  speak  or  write 
from  personal  observation  or  experience  is  denied 
me;  the  information  following  is  second-hand, 
excepting  that  individual  skins  were  viewed,  and 
that  the  contrast  between  such  was  observed  and  noted. 

The  sea  ot^er  is  found  in  northern  latitudes  along  the  coast 
of  Alaska,  the  Aleutian  Islands,  then  across  to  Kamchatka, 
following  the  coast  line  of  the  latter  peninsula  up  to  Cape 
Olutorsk,  then  along  the  coast  to  Cape  Navaria.  In  some  of 
the  above  sections  they  are  known  under  the  name  of  ''Kalan." 
The  animal's  existence  was  brought  to  light  by  Steller  in  1751, 
but  was  known  to  the  natives  inhabiting  the  extreme  northern 
shores  of  the  Pacific  ocean  and  its  islands,  who  used  the  skin 
for  wearing  apparel,  etc.,  at  the  time  Steller  made  his  observa- 
tions. Probably  no  skin  from  any  other  animal  of  the  entire 
animal  kingdom  has  more  merits  of  true  value  than  that  of  the 
sea  otter.  The  choicest  skins  of  the  black  fox  may  command 
more  money  at  times,  but  its  relative  value  and  merit  is  sur- 
passed by  the  skin  of  the  sea  otter.  In  value  the  seal  skin 
is  far  surpassed  by  that  of  the  sea  otter. 

During  the  colder  part  of  the  year  they  dwell  along  the  coast, 
and  are  seen  on  large  barren  rocks,  evidently  preparatory  to 


140 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


taking  plunges  into  the  deep  sea.  During  the  warm  season  they 
migrate  fifty  to  one  hundred  miles  from  the  shore  and  live 
entirely  in  and  on  the  deep  sea.  There  is  a  marked  difference 
between  the  sea  otter  and  that  of  the  land  otter.  The  latter 
presents  a  special  modification  of  the  limbs,  more  particularly 
of  the  hind  limbs,  which  are  developed  into  flipper-like  organs, 
not  very  dissimilar  to  those  of  some  seals. 

The  body  is  cylindrical  in  form,  abrupt  behind,  tapering 
before  to  a  small  globose  head  without  noticeable  constriction 
of  neck.  The  limbs  are  short  and  there  is  a  remarkable  dis- 
parity in  shape  between  the  fore  and  hind  feet.  The  tail  is 
short,  cylindrical,  gradually  tapering  and  ending  abruptly.  In 
no  respect  does  the  tail  of  the  sea  otter  resemble  that  of  the  land 
otter.  The  fore  feet  are  remarkably  small  and  the  rear  ones  are 
notable  for  their  expansion  and  flattened  effective  oars.  The  eyes 
are  of  moderate  size  and  set  rather  high  up  into  the  skull. 
The  ears  are  situated  remarkably  low  down — far  below  the 
eyes,  and  in  fact  little  below  the  commissure  of  the  mouth.  The 
whiskers  are  short,  extremely  stout  and  stiff.  In  life  the  skin 
is  remarkably  loose  (rolling)  ;  the  pelt  of  an  individual  four  feet 
long  readily  stretches  to  six  feet;  and  when  the  animal  is  lifted 
up  by  the  skin  a  foot  or  so  of  ''slack"  gathers. 

The  pelage  is  notable  for  the  preponderance  of  the  woolly 
under-fur,  the  longer,  stouter  hairs  being  very  scanty.  It  is  of 
the  same  general  character  all  over  the  body,  but  the  head,  feet 
and  tail  are  covered  with  a  finer  fur  with  little  or  no  admixture 
of  bristly  hairs.  The  only  naked  parts  are  the  muffle  and  palms. 
The  animal  attains  a  size  of  four  to  six  feet,  which  includes  a  tail 
of  eight  to  ten  inches  in  length.  The  average  weight  is  eighty 
to  one  hundred  and  ten  pounds. 

Habits  Fi'oiT^  one  of  the  Government  Reports,  and  as  noted 
by  Coues,  the  following  is  extracted:  "The  sea  otter 
mother  sleeps  in  the  water  on  her  back,  with  her  young  clasped  be- 
tween her  fore-paws.  The  pup  cannot  live  without  its  mother, 
though  frequent  attempts  have  been  made  by  the  natives  to  raise 
them,  as  they  often  capture  them  alive,  but,  like  some  other  species 
of  wild  animals,  it  seems  to  be  so  deeply  imbued  with  fear  of  man 
that  it  invariably  dies  from  self-imposed  starvation. 

'Their  food,  as  might  be  inferred  from  the  flat  molars  of 
dentition,  is  almost  entirely  composed  of  clams,  mussels,  and  sea- 
urchins,  of  which  they  are  very  fond,  and  which  they  break  by 
striking  the  shells  together,  held  in  each  fore-paw,  sucking  out 
the  contents  as  they  are  fractured  by  these  efforts;  they  also 
undoubtedly  eat  crabs,  and  the  juicy,  tender  fronds  of  kelp  or 
seaweed,  and  fish. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


14  1 


'They  are  not  polygamous,  and  more  than  an  individual 
is  seldom  seen  at  a  time  when  out  at  sea.  The  flesh  is  very 
unpalatable,  highly  charged  with  a  rank  smell  and  flavor. 

''They  are  playful,  it  would  seem,  for  I  am  assured  by  sev- 
eral old  hunters  that  they  have  watched  the  sea  otter  for  half  an 
hour  as  it  lay  upon  its  back  in  the  water  and  tossed  a  piece  of 
seaweed  up  in  the  air  from  paw  to  paw,  apparently  taking  great 
delight  in  catching  it  before  it  could  fall  into  the  water.  It 
will  also  play  with  its  young  for  hours. 

"The  quick  hearing  and  acute  smell  possessed  by  the  sea 
otter  are  not  equalled  by  any  other  creatures  in  the  territory. 
They  will  take  alarm  and  leave  from  the  effects  of  a  small  fire 
four  or  five  miles  to  the  windward  of  them;  and  the  footstep 
of  man  must  be  washed  by  many  tides  before  its  trace  ceases  to 
alarm  the  animal  and  drive  it  from  landing  there  should  it 
approach  for  that  purpose.'' 

It  is  positively  related  that  unlike  other  animals,  the  young, 
when  born,  possess  excellent  sight  and  sharp  teeth.  The  mother 
soon  takes  them  to  sea,  holding  them  in  her  mouth  while  she 
swims  on  her  back.  The  usual  position  of  the  young  is  for  them 
to  lie  on  her  breast  between  the  fore-legs,  she  protecting  one  or 
both  of  them  in  this  manner.  Like  the  mother  of  the  human 
family  she  kisses  her  young  over  and  over  again  and  readily  risks 
her  life  to  save  the  young  from  harm. 

Steller  relates  that  the  sea  otter  can  be  tamed  and  be  placed 
in  lakes  or  rivers  similar  to  seals,  although  the  roomy  salt  water 
is  very  dear  to  them. 

The  number  of  sea  otters  is  rapidly  diminishing,  while  certain 
vessels  containing  hunters  and  explorers  as  early  as  1794  cap- 
tured, in  a  season,  two  to  five  thousand  otters,  and  later,  in  1800, 
a  few  American  and  English  vessels  came  into  Sitka  Sound, 
anchoring  off  the  small  Russian  settlement  there  and  traded  with 
the  natives  for  thousands  of  skins,  giving  in  exchange  firearms, 
powder  and  balls,  etc.  With  the  use  of  these  arms  the  natives 
soon  opened  a  systematic  warfare  leading  towards  extermination. 
In  the  year  1804  ^  Russian  and  American  company  marketed 
fifteen  thousand  sea  otter  skins  and  realized  over  one  million 
dollars  therefor.  For  mode  of  capturing,  which  is  very  inter- 
esting, see  article  under  "Trapping."  The  value  of  the  skins 
varies  considerably  and  is  generally  between  $200  to  $500  each. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


143 


THE  SEAL. 

{Ger,  Robben  oder  Flossenfuser,  Lat.  Pinnepedia.) 

HE  seals,  sea  lions,  harp  seals,  hooded  seals,  sea 
bears,  saddleback  seals,  and  other  species,  as  well 
as  the  various  kinds  of  walruses  belong  to  the  fin 
footed  variety  and  are  distinguished  from  other 
mammalia  by  the  peculiar  construction  of  their 
body,  habits,  actions,  etc. 
They  are  able  to  swim  and  dive  with  the  great- 
est ease,  often  remaining  ten  to  twenty  minutes  below  the  sur- 
face of  the  water,  and,  Cuvier  says,  as  long  as  one  hour.  Their 
arteries  are  filled  with  warm  blood,  and  the  animal  possesses 
nocturnal  and  gregarious  habits,  with  a  highly-developed  sense 
of  sight,  hearing,  smell,  and  inhabits  all  oceans  of  the  world. 

All  species  of  the  seal  family  frequent  resorts  of  sandy 
beaches,  rocks  and  floes,  for  the  purpose  of  sleeping  or  basking 
in  the  sun,  and  for  breeding.  The  body  is  adapted  for  continued 
water  residence,  being  cylindrical  and  tapering  gradually  from 
centre  backwards  toward  tail  and  tapering  frontwards,  terminat- 
ing in  an  otter-like  head,  the  latter  being  small  and  well  rounded. 
The  ears  on  certain  species  are  well  developed,  while  those  of  the 
Alaska  fur  seal  are  sparingly  distinguished  and  exceedingly 
small,  and  when  the  animal  is  in  the  water,  same  are  closed  by 
a  valve,  which  terminates  the  inward  flow  of  water,  but  does 
not  retard  the  animal's  sense  of  hearing.  It  is  remarkable  that 
the  seal  is  able  to  detect  slight  surface  noises  while  at  a  depth 
of  ten  to  twenty  feet  below  the  water  level.  Their  nostrils  are 
completely  closed  when  under  water,  and  the  eyes  are  large,  and 
pleasingly  set  ofif  the  animal,  as  well  as  their  intelligent  nature. 
The  mammae  (teats)  are  on  the  lower  rear  portion  of  the  belly, 
and  their  feet  are  as  indicated  on  the  illustration. 

From  a  commercial  standpoint  seals  are  divided  into  two 
groups — hair  seals  and  fur  seals.  The  latter  produces  a  skin 
that  is  worn  by  thousands  of  ladies  in  this  country  and  Europe, 
also  a  quantity  of  oil.  The  hair  seal  is  caught  for  the  value  of 
the  oil  and  skin — the  latter  is  largely  converted  into  leather. 
The  latter  species  of  seal  inhabits  Newfoundland,  Labrador,  Gulf 
of  St.  Lawrence,  and  portions  of  the  White  Sea,  Arctic,  Caspian 
and  North  and  South  Pacific  oceans. 

The  Alaska  fur  seal  inhabits  the  ocean  along  the  coast  of 
Alaska,  and  the  rookeries  which  they  frequent  are  situated  on  the 
islands  of  St.  Paul  and  St.  George,  known  as  the  Pribilof  islands. 
The  body  of  the  Alaska  fur  seal  is  covered  with  a  layer  of 


144         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 

coarse  outer  hair,  while  the  inner  coat  consists  of  dense,  soft, 
silky  fur  fibres.  The  roots  of  the  outside  guard  hairs  penetrate 
deep  into  the  skin,  while  the  fur  fibres  are  imbedded  and  ter- 
minate immediately  beneath  the  grain  formation  of  the  skin.  In 
the  process  of  tanning,  the  coarse  hairs  are  easily  loosened  in 
the  operation  of  ''fleshing,''  without  disturbing  the  adherence  of 
tne  tur  fibres. 

A  full-grown  Alaska  bull  seal  measures  about  seven  feet,  and 
is  about  equal  that  number  of  feet  in  circumference,  and  will 
weigh  about  five  hundred  to  six  hundred  pounds.  He  attains 
his  maturity  at  the  age  of  about  six  years.  The  females  attain 
their  maturity  at  the  age  of  about  four  years,  and  are  about  two- 
thirds  the  size  of  the  male,  but  in  weight  they  rarely  exceed  one 
hundred  fifty  pounds,  usually  about  one  hundred  pounds.  Their 
longevity  varies  considerably  usually  from  sixteen  to  twenty 
years  for  a  bull  and  ten  to  twelve  years  for  a  female.  The 
mother  brings  forth  a  pup  usually  at  the  age  of  four  years,  and 
in  rare  cases  at  the  age  of  three  years. 

The  Alaska  seal,  as  aforesaid,  is  largely  captured  on  the 
Pribilof  islands,  the  bull  seals  arriving  from  a  southward  direc- 
tion on  the  rookeries  as  early  as  May  and  by  the  first  of  June 
hundreds  and  thousands  locate  themselves  in  advantageous  po- 
sition, awaiting  the  reception  of  the  females,  which  usually  come 
two  to  three  weeks  later. 

It  is  extremely  hazardous  and  requires  an  unusual  amount 
of  grit  for  the  individual  bull  seal  to  maintain  and  defend  his 
position.  Hundreds  are  annually  killed  in  combat,  especially 
those  on  the  water  line.  The  fighting  is  done  entirely  with 
the  mouth,  one  seizing  the  other  by  the  teeth,  inflicting  deep 
wounds,  their  sharp  incisors  tearing  deep  gutters  in  the  skin  and 
at  various  times  shredding  the  flippers  into  ribbon  strips. 

The  skins  taken  from  the  Pribilof  islands  principally  con- 
stitute the  Alaska  seal  skins  though  numerous  animals  are  cap- 
tured along  the  coast  of  Alaska,  British  Columbia,  along  the 
Aleutian  islands,  and  others  when  the  animals  return  from 
the  Pribilof  islands  by  the  pelagic  sealers. 

The  seals  are  remarkably  tenacious  of  life,  but  are  easily 
killed  by  a  bullet  piercing  the  brain,  or  by  a  sharp  rap  over  the 
head. 

The  seal  has  other  enemies  besides  man.  The  monster  killer 
whale,  the  polar  bear,  and  also  certain  species  of  large  fishes, 
which  usually  overtake  the  young,  but  seldom  attack  the  full- 
grown  seal. 

The  killing  of  seals  is  carefully  regulated  by  law  on  the 
Pribilof  islands  and  within  a  radius  of  sixty  miles  thereof. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide,  145 


The  Commercial  Company,  which  has  the  contract  from  this 
government,  is  only  permitted  to  kill  a  certain  number  of  young 
bachelor  seals.  The  killing  of  females  is  entirely  prohibited. 
The  female  brings  forth  one  pup,  in  rare  cases  two  pups,  which 
are  born  three  to  six  days  after  reaching  the  rookeries.  Strange  as 
it  may  seem,  the  new  companion  of  the  mother  takes  kindly  to 
the  pup.  The  bull  seal  usually  gathers  about  him  a  number  of 
females,  sometimes  as  high  as  eight,  but  usually  two  to  five. 
These,  with  the  oflfspring  of  the  female  and  her  previous  com- 
panion are  protected  by  him,  the  father  of  her  next  pup,  which 
is  born  in  about  a  year. 

The  skins  taken  from  seals  inhabiting  the  oceans  about  the 
Shetland  islands  are  superior  in  fur  qualities  to  that  of  the 
Alaska  seal,  while  the  latter  is  superior  to  others,  especially  those 
coming  from  the  Copper  islands,  Japanese,  Lobos,  Cape  of  Good 
Hope  and  other  sections. 

The  elephant  seal  that  is  found  at  various  portions  of  the 
globe,  and  formerly  along  the  coast  of  California  are  monsters, 
and  historians  state  that  the  elephant  seal  is  the  largest  species 
of  the  seal  family,  single  bull  seals  of  the  above  species  weighing 
between  two  thousand  and  two  thousand  five  hundred  pounds. 

Many  believe  that  the  sea  lions  inhabiting  the  rocks  just 
off  the  Cliff  House  in  San  Francisco  are  animals  that  produce 
the  fur  seal  skins.    Such  is  not  the  case. 


146 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


ALASKA  FUR  SEALS. 

HE  islands  of  St.  Paul  and  St.  George,  forming 
the  Pribilof  islands,  which  are  the  chief  seal 
hunting  grounds,  are  inhabited  principally  by 
natives.  Upon  the  former  there  are  one 
hundred  and  sixty-eight  inhabitants,  nine  of 
them  being  white  people  from  this  country, 
who  are  employed  by  the  government.  Upon 
the  island  of  St.  George  there  are  eighty-eight 
native  persons,  representing  twenty-two 
families. 

According  to  contract,  the  North  American 
Commercial  Company  gives  employment  to 
natives  on  both  of  these  islands,  attends  to 
their  personal  wants,  such  as  clothing,  food, 
fuel,  education,  etc.  The  following  are  extracts  from  the  govern- 
or's report  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior  in  1902 : 

''Nineteen  thousand  animals  (seals)  were  killed  upon  St.  Paul 
and  3,304  upon  St.  George,  making  a  total  of  23,304.  This 
number,  at  the  contract  price  of  $9.62^^  per  skin,  together  with 
the  annual  rental  of  $60,000.00,  amounts  to  $274,676.05.  The 
expense  is  the  fuel  account  of  one  revenue  cutter,  the  Manning, 
and  the  salaries  and  expense  accounts  of  the  treasury  agents. 
Any  person  who  visits  the  islands  and  studies  these  animals  upon 
the  rookeries  can  hardly  bring  himself  to  advocate  their  whole- 
sale destruction.  We  undoubtedly  have  a  property  interest  in 
them,  and  should  stoutly  maintain  our  right  by  straightforward 
diplomacy.  By  what  little  branding  that  has  been  done  we  have 
proved  that  these  animals  migrate  along  the  coast  in  the  winter 
and  early  spring.  Have  we  a  right  to  protect  them  from  the 
pelagic  hunter  ?  What  is  known  as  the  sixty-mile  limit,  which 
was  imposed  by  the  court  of  arbitration,  gives  some  protection, 
but  not  enough.  The  nursing  females  are  killed  more  than  two 
hundred  miles  from  their  rookeries.  The  English  and  Americans 
who  were  parties  to  the  arbitration  are  restricted  to  the  sixty- 
mile  limit  and  hunt  with  spears  only.  We  refuse  to  clear  our 
own  vessels  for  hunting  seals.  Eighteen  vessels  are  said  to  have 
cleared  from  Japanese  ports  this  season  to  engage  in  pelagic 
sealing.  These  are  armed  with  guns.  Some  of  the  crews  of  these 
vessels  are  mixed — made  up  of  Japs,  Canadians  and  others. 
These  people  will  assert  that  they  are  not  restrained 
by  the  rules  of  any  court  of  arbitration  in  which  they 
were  not  represented.    It  would  be  to  the  interest  of  the  United 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  147 

States  to  have  the  whole  seaHng  question  opened  up  anew  and 
to  have  Russia,  Japan,  England  and  the  United  States  agree 
upon  a  plan  for  giving  these  animals  adequate  protection. 

''They  have  an  eneni}^  in  the  thrasher  or  whale  killer.  These 
animals  are  the  dread  of  the  whole  seal  family.  When  the  sea 
lion  or  hair  seal  scents  them  he  knows  that  their  only  safety  is 
to  make  for  land ;  but  the  fur  seal  is  not  so  wise.  If  he  dddges 
at  the  first  onset  he  becomes  curious  to  learn  what  is  going  on 
instead  of  trying  to  escape.  The  thrasher  knows  these  habits  to 
his  advantage.  He  is  armed  with  rows  of  teeth  that  come  to- 
gether with  tremendous  energy.  These  animals  in  great  num- 
bers guard  the  passage  well  and  no  doubt  consume  great  num- 
bers of  young  seals.  The  agents  upon  the  islands  report  that 
they  frequently  chase  the  seals  at  the  rookeries,  but  when  they 
discharge  a  rifle  at  them  they  put  to  sea  at  once.  It  would  be 
well  for  Congress  to  authorize  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  to 
offer  an  ample  bounty  for  the  heads  of  these  sea  beasts  of  prey. 
It  should  be  sufficient  to  induce  hunters  to  outfit  vessels  for 
capturing  them." 

According  to  the  contract  between  the  United  States  and  the 
North  American  Commercial  Company,  entered  upon  and  be- 
tween these  parties  on  the  12th  day  of  March,  1890,  said  company 
has  the  sole  monopoly  of  the  seal  industry  on  these  islands,  (St. 
George  and  St.  Paul),  and  must  exercise  its  power  under  rules 
and  regulations  of  the  Interior  Department.  They  are  restricted 
to  capture  a  certain  number  of  seals  a  year  and  are  obliged  to  pay 
an  annual  rental  of  $60,000.00.  In  addition  thereto  a  revenue 
tax  of  $2.00  is  laid  upon  each  fur  seal  skin  taken  and  shipped  by 
said  company  from  the  islands  of  St.  Paul  and  St.  George,  and 
are  also  obliged  to  pay  the  United  States  an  additional  $7.62^^ 
per  skin  and  50  cents  per  gallon  of  oil  shipped  from  said  islands. 

They  are  obliged  to  furnish  the  natives  with  sufficient  and 
proper  food,  fuel,  comfortable  dwellings,  schoolhouses,  compe- 
tent teachers,  places  of  worship,  care  for  the  aged  and  infirm, 
and  give  the  inhabitants  sufficient  and  proper  employment,  medi- 
cal attendance,  etc. 

The  above  contract  is  for  twenty  years  and  subject  to  nulli- 
fication upon  evidence  of  violation  or  at  the  pleasure  of  the  Gov- 
ernment, ?ind  the  company  is  subject  to  all  present  and  future 
laws  pending  the  seal  fisheries. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  149 


ALASKA  FUR  BEARING  ANIMALS. 

(Extracts  from  Government  Reports  of  Seal  and  Salmon  Fish- 
eries and  General  Resources  of  Alaska,  i8p8.) 

The  Fur  Seal  (Callorhimis  iirsimis).  The  only  hauling  or 
breeding  grounds  of  the  fur  seal  known  in  Alaska  are  on  the 
Islands  of  St.  Paul  and  St.  George,  with  the  addition  perhaps  of 
the  adjoining  Otter  Island,  where  these  animals  occasionally  haul 
up  but  do  not  breed.  From  early  spring  until  late  in  the  autumn 
fur  seals  are  met  with  in  all  portions  of  the  North  Pacific  in- 
closed by  the  Alaska  coast,  from  latitude  54°  40'  to  Mount  St. 
Elias,  and  thence  westward  along  Prince  William  Sound,  the 
east  side  of  Kenai  Peninsula,  and  along  the  Aliaska  Peninsula 
and  its  continuation,  the  Aleutian  chain  of  islands.  In  Behring 
sea  the  animal  has  not  been  observed  to  the  northward  of  lati- 
tude 58°.  In  the  spring  of  the  year  only  fur  seals  are  found  in 
large  numbers  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Strait  of  Fuca  and  along  the 
coast  of  Vancouver  and  Queen  Charlotte  Islands.  During  the 
time  of  the  general  migration  to  and  from  the  breeding  grounds 
several  of  the  passes  through  the  Aleutian  chain  are  crowded 
with  adults  in  the  spring  and  with  young  seals  and  yearlings  in 
the  late  summer  and  autumn.  The  presence  of  large  numbers  of 
these  animals  in  these  secluded  waters  and  those  of  Prince 
William  Sound  late  in  the  season  (in  June  and  July)  has  often 
given  rise  to  the  supposition  that  some  breeding  grounds  must 
exist  in  those  localities,  but  the  most  minute  and  persistent  search 
has  failed  to  sustain  the  supposition. 

About  fifty  miles  south  of  the  Aleutian  chain  large  numbers  of 
seals  are  frequently  seen  during  the  summer,  and  for  half  a  cen- 
tury rumors  of  the  existence  of  breeding  grounds  in  that  neighbor- 
hood were  launched  from  time  to  time. 

The  Russian-American  company  fitted  out  numerous  explor- 
ing expeditions,  but  these  were  always  unsuccessful.  The  last  en- 
terprise of  the  kind  was  undertaken  by  a  former  employe  of  the 
Russian  company,  under  the  auspices  of  the  present  lessees  of  the 
seal  islands,  on  the  schooner  ''John  Bright,"  in  1873,  being  the 
third  expedition  of  the  kind  fitted  out  by  the  Alaska  Commercial 
Company  in  two  years.  On  this  occasion  indications  of  land, 
such  as  are  accepted  by  all  navigators,  were  not  wanting  in  the 
waters  included  in  the  search.  After  a  season  of  fruitless  search 
the  captain  finally  abandoned  his  undertaking,  coming  to  the 
conclusion,  however,  that  within  a  short  distance  southward  from 
the  Aleutian  Islands  there  existed  banks  sufificiently  shallow  to 
serve  as  feeding  grounds  for  the  seals,  which  possibly  visit  them 


150         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


for  that  purpose  even  during  the  breeding  season,  as  a  journey 
of  300  miles  is  but  a  brief  excursion  for  these  rapid  swimmers 
in  search  of  food. 

All  other  expeditions  in  search  of  the  supposed  'Svinter 
home"  of  these  seals  have  met  with  the  same  lack  of  success.  The 
Pacific  ocean  and  the  Antarctic  have  been  scoured  by  the  sealers 
and  by  emissaries  of  trading  firms,  but  at  the  present  day  the 
fact  seems  to  be  established  that  the  fur  seals,  after  leaving  their 
confined  breeding  places,  scatter  over  the  broad  Pacific  to  locali- 
ties where  extensive  elevations  of  the  bottom  of  the  sea  enable 
them  to  subsist  upon  fish  until  the  instinct  of  reproduction  calls 
them  again  from  all  directions  to  one  common  goal. 

The  Sea  Otter  (Enhydra  marina).  The  sea  otter  seems  to 
exist,  chiefly  on  a  line  parallel  with  the  Japanese  current,  from 
the  coast  of  Japan  along  the  Kurile  islands  to  the  coast  of  Kam- 
chatka, and  thence  westward  along  the  Aleutian  chain,  the  south- 
ern side  of  the  Aliaska  Peninsula,  the  estuaries  of  Cook  Inlet 
and  Prince  William  sound,  and  thence  eastward  and  southward 
along  the  Alaskan  coast,  the  Alexander  archipelago,  British  Co- 
lumbia, Washington  Territory  and  Oregon. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  present  century  large  numbers  of 
these  animals  were  also  found  on  the  coast  of  California,  from 
which  they  have  now  disappeared  altogether;  and  on  the  coast 
of  Oregon,  Washington  Territory,  and  British  Columbia  they 
have  decreased  to  such  a  degree  that  only  at  long  intervals  is  the 
patient  hunter  rewarded  with  the  prize  of  one  of  these  valuable 
skins.  On  the  west  coast  of  Vancouver  island,  in  the  vicinity  of 
Nootka  Sound,  where  Meares,  Portlock,  Dixon,  and  others  of 
the  earliest  English  northwest  traders  found  thousands  of  sea- 
otter  skins  in  the  possession  of  chiefs,  the  animal  has  been  almost 
exterminated,  and  there  can  be  no  doubt  that,  had  it  not  been  for 
the  protection  afforded  under  the  Russian  monopoly  for  nearly 
three-fourths  of  a  century,  this  animal  would  be  extinct  today  in 
Alaskan  waters.  The  Innuit  tribes  alone  entered  understandingly 
into  the  measures  of  protection  introduced  by  Russians. 
The  Thlinket,  on  the  other  hand,  a  fierce  and  savage  people,  op- 
posed to  system  and  order  or  control  of  any  kind,  were  the  most 
active  agents  in  the  extermination  of  the  animal.  From  the 
time  they  began  to  understand  the  value  of  sea-otter  skins  from 
the  eagerness  with  which  the  early  English  visitors  purchased  all 
they  had,  even  mere  scraps  and  rags,  the  Thlinket  all  along  the 
coast,  from  the  mouth  of  Copper  River  southward,  hunted  and 
slaughtered  the  sea-otter  indiscriminately  and  in  the  most  clumsy 
manner,  frightened  away  as  many  as  they  killed.  Had  these 
tribes  joined  to  their  recklessness  the  same  skill  and  patient  per- 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


151 


sistence  observed  among  the  Eskimo  and  Aleut,  there  would  be 
no  sea-otters  on  that  coast  today ;  but  in  their  wooden  canoes  they 
can  only  hunt  in  fine  weather,  and  at  such  times  the  sea-otter  re- 
tires from  the  coast  to  a  distance  to  which  no  Thlinket  would 
venture. 

In  the  Russian  possession  about  the  Kurile  Islands  and  the 
coast  of  Kamchatka  but  a  few  hundred  sea-otters  are  now  killed 
annually.  At  three  different  times  during  the  existence  of  the 
Russian-American  Company  their  agents  on  the  Kurile  islands 
and  Kamchatka  reported  the  sea-otter  as  extinct,  and  each  time 
the  animals  appeared  again  after  they  had  not  been  hunted  for 
a  few  years.  Along  the  Aleutian  chain  the  sea-otters  frequently 
change  from  one  feeding  ground  to  another;  for  instance,  for 
a  long  series  of  years  the  island  of  Attoo  and  several  smaller 
surrounding  islands  furnished  many  hundreds  of  sea-otter  skins 
every  year,  but  for  some  unexplained  reason  a  migration  east- 
ward took  place,  and  at  the  present  time  from  fourteen  to  twenty 
skins  are  all  that  the  poverty-stricken  inhabitants  sell  to  the 
traders.  The  numerous  islands  between  Attoo  and  Atkha  are 
each  visited  in  turn  by  the  hunters  about  once  in  three  years,  and 
under  such  management  the  numbers  of  the  animals  appear  to 
remain  the  same.  The  outlying  reefs  of  Atkha,  which  once  fur- 
nished the  most  abundant  supply  of  these  valuable  skins,  are  now 
entirely  deserted,  and  the  inhabitants  undertake  long  hunting 
voyages  to  the  westward  under  convoy  of  schooners  belonging  to 
the  trading  firms. 

From  the  island  of  Oumnak  eastward  the  sea-otter  becomes 
more  frequent,  until  we  find  it  in  its  greatest  abundance  in  the 
district  of  Sannakh  and  Belkovsky.  Here,  within  a  radius  of 
not  more  than  fifty  miles,  over  2,000  sea-otters  are  secured  every 
year  by  the  fortunate  hunters  without  any  apparent  decline  in 
numbers.  From  this  point  in  a  northeasterly  direction  the  coast 
of  the  Aliaska  Peninsula  is  lined  with  hundreds  of  islands  and 
reefs,  affording  ample  facilities  for  shelter  and  refuge  to  the 
persecuted  animal,  and  though  it  is  hunted  here  recklessly  by 
white  and  native  hunters,  alike,  using  firearms  in  violation  of 
existing  regulations,  no  alarming  decrease  can  be  ascertained 
from  statistics  at  hand.  Still  further  northward,  in  the  waters  of 
the  Kadiak  archipelago  and  the  southern  half  of  Cook  Inlet, 
and  thence  eastward  to  Prince  William  sound,  sea-otters  are 
found  in  less  number  than  in  the  district  described  above,  but  still 
in  comparative  abundance,  the  annual  yield  being  between  1,000 
and  1,500  skins. 

As  far  as  it  is  possible  for  us  to  know,  the  only  enemy  of  the 
sea-otter  is  man,  with  the  exception  perhaps  of  the  so-called  *'kil- 


152 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


ler-whale."  We  have  reports  of  natives  only  in  support  of  the 
last  statement,  but  as  this  whale  is  known  to  make  sad  havoc 
among  fur  seals  there  is  no  reason  to  doubt  that  they  occasionally 
attack  the  somewhat  larger  sea-otter.  Skins  have  come  under  my 
observation  marked  with  scars  produced  evidently  by  the  teeth  of 
some  large  marine  mammal. 

The  distribution  of  the  sea-otter  along  the  coast  of  Alaska,  as 
indicated  in  the  accompanying  map,  has  not  essentially  changed 
within  historic  times.  Certain  localities  have  been  abandoned  by 
the  animal  altogether,  other  temporarily;  but  where  Behring, 
Chirikof,  and  Steller  and  subsequently  the  Russian  promyshleniks 
found  the  sea-otter  more  than  a  century  ago,  we  find  it  now,  and 
the  supply  of  such  skins  in  the  fur  market  of  the  world  is  certainly 
as  great  now  as  at  any  time  since  the  first  indiscriminate  slaugh- 
ter prior  to  the  establishment  of  the  Russian  monopoly :  in  fact  it 
is  apparently  much  greater. 

The  Land  Otter  (Lutra  canadensis) .  The  land  otter  is  one 
of  the  most  widely  distributed  fur-bearing  animals  in  Alaska, 
ranking  in  this  respect  next  to  the  common  cross  fox.  The  skin, 
however,  is  much  more  valuable,  since  of  late  it  has  been  utilized 
for  the  manufacture  of  an  imitation  of  seal  skin.  The  skin  has  al- 
ways met  with  ready  sale  in  Russia,  where  it  is  used  extensively 
for  collars  and  cufifs  of  the  uniforms  of  army  officers  of  the  line, 
who  cannot  afiford  the  more  expensive  sea-otter  trimmings.  The 
demand  for  it  in  former  times  was  so  great  that  the  Russian-Am- 
erican Company  in  leasing  a  strip  of  land  to  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company  was  not  only  willing,  but  anxious  to  accept  payment  in 
land-otter  skins.    The  Chinese  also  have  a  liking  for  this  fur. 

The  land  otter  is  found  on  the  whole  coast  of  Alaska,  from 
the  southern  boundary  to  the  northern  shore  of  Norton  Sound. 
It  also  occurs  on  all  the  islands  inside  of  these  limits  as  far  as 
Unimak  in  the  west  and  Nunivak  in  the  north.  Within  the  Arc- 
tic Circle  the  land  otter  is  confined  to  the  upper  courses  of  rivers 
emptying  into  Kotzebue  Sound  and  the  Arctic  Ocean,  such  as 
the  Colville,  the  Kok,  the  Inland,  and  Selawik.  It  is  found  also 
along  the  whole  course  of  the  Yukon  as  far  as  known,  along  the 
Kuskokvim,  and  all  over  the  delta  lying  between  the  mouths  of 
these  rivers,  in  the  valleys  of  the  Togiak  and  the  Nushegak,  and 
in  nearly  all  parts  of  the  Aliaska  peninsula  and  Unimak  islands, 
as  well  as  on  the  Kadiak  archipelago,  the  shores  of  Cook  Inlet, 
on  the  Kinik  and  Sushetno  rivers  emptying  into  the  same,  on 
Prince  William  Sound,  and  on  the  Copper  River.  The  traders 
report  the  land  otter  also  along  the  whole  coast  from  Mount  St. 
Elias  to  the  southern  boundary,  with  the  exception  of  the  smaller 
islands. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


153 


The  Beaver  (Castor  fiber).  The  beaver  was  once  one  of  the 
most  important  among  the  fur-bearing  animals  of  continental 
Alaska,  but  both  in  supply  and  demand  a  great  decline  has  taken 
place  during  the  last  half  century.  It  would  seem  that  the  smal- 
ler demand  would  cause  an  increase  in  the  supply,  but  this  has  not 
been  the  case.  Throughout  the  whole  interior  region  north  of 
Cook  Inlet  and  south  of  Yukon  river  the  beavers  have  fre- 
quently sufifered  from  excessive  and  prolonged  cold  during  the 
winter,  the  ice  in  rivers  and  ponds  forming  so  rapidly  and  to  such 
thickness  that  the  animals  found  it  impossible  to  keep  open  the 
approaches  to  their  dwellings  under  water,  and  they  died  from 
starvation  before  the  thaws  of  spring  opened  their  prisons.  The 
Indians  of  the  Kinik  and  Tennanah  rivers  state  that  after  an 
extraordinarily  cold  winter  they  have  frequently  found  the  putre- 
fying carcasses  of  hundreds  of  beavers  in  their  so-called  lodges. 
Thousands  of  old  beaver  dams  all  over  the  continental  portion 
of  Alaska  also  testify  to  the  former  abundance  of  the  animal, 
which  now  is  thinly  scattered  over  the  same  ground.  At  nearly 
every  trading  post  throughout  Alaska  where  beaver  skins  are  at 
all  secured  hundreds  are  purchased  now  where  thousands  appear 
on  former  records. 

The  northern  limit  of  the  beaver  seems  to  be  but  little  to  the 
southward  of  that  of  the  land  otter,  considerably  above  the  Arctic 
circle  being  identical  with  the  limit  of  trees.  Skins  are  obtained 
from  the  natives  living  on  the  northern  tributaries  of  the  Yukon 
River,  which  have  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  latter  from  the 
headwaters  of  the  Colville  and  other  rivers  emptying  into  the 
Arctic. 

All  the  streams  emptying  into  Kotzebue  Sound  are  still  in- 
habited by  the  beaver,  and  it  is  found  on  the  east  shore  of  Norton 
Sound,  along  the  whole  course  of  the  Yukon  and  its  tributaries, 
among  all  the  lakes  and  streams  of  the  Yukon  and  Kuskokvim 
deltas,  in  the  lake  and  river  systems  of  the  Togiak  and  Nushegak, 
about  Lake  Ilyamna  and  the  lakes  and  rivers  of  the  Aliaska  Pen- 
insula down  to  a  line  identical  with  that  forming  the  northern 
boundary  of  the  Aleutian  tribe.  On  the  shores  of  Cook  Inlet 
and  the  rivers  emptying  into  the  same  the  beaver  is  still  com- 
paratively plentiful,  especially  in  the  vicinity  of  the  large  lakes 
occupying  the  central  portion  of  the  Kenai  Peninsula.  Beaver 
skins  are  also  obtained  from  the  natives  occupying  the  headwaters 
of  Copper  river  and  the  series  of  lakes  connecting  the  river  with 
the  Kinik  and  the  Sushetno  rivers. 

In  the  southeastern  section  of  Alaska,  west  of  Mount  St. 
Elias,  traders  report  the  existence  of  the  beaver  on  streams  and 
rivers  of  the  mainland,  but  it  is  probable  that  most  of  the  skins 


154         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


obtained  in  that  vicinity  come  really  from  the  British  possession, 
whence  all  these  rivers  flow. 

In  the  past,  when  the  Hudson  Bay  company  reigned  supreme 
throughout  the  beaver  country  of  northwestern  America,  the  skins 
of  these  animals  represented  in  trade  the  value  of  an  English  shil- 
ling each,  and  were  used  and  accepted  as  common  currency. 
Within  the  Russian  possessions  the  value  was  always  somewhat 
higher,  and  at  the  present  time  the  price  of  a  beaver  skin  of  aver- 
age size  in  Alaska  is  from  $1.50  to  $2.00,  according  to  weight. 

The  Indians  of  the  interior  and  a  few  of  the  Eskimo  tribes 
look  upon  the  meat  of  the  beaver  as  a  great  delicacy ;  it  is  a  dish 
that  is  always  set  before  honored  guests,  and  is  much  used  during 
festivities.  The  long  incisors  of  the  beaver  form  an  important 
item  in  the  domestic  economy  of  the  natives  who  hunt  this  ani- 
mal, the  extraordinary  hardness  of  these  teeth  making  it  possible 
to  use  them  in  the  manufacture  of  chisels,  small  adzes,  and  other 
tools  used  in  the  working  of  wood  and  bone.  Under  the  rule 
of  the  Russian-American  Company  the  exportation  of  castoreum 
was  quite  extensive,  but  now  that  article  meets  with  no  demand 
outside  of  the  Chinese  market,  the  Celestials  still  looking  upon  it 
as  a  valuable  part  of  their  materia  medica. 

The  Brown  Bear  (Ursus  richardsonii) .  The  brown  bear  of 
Alaska,  a  huge,  shaggy  animal,  varying  in  length  from  6  to  12 
feet,  is  distributed  over  nearly  every  section  of  Alaska,  but  seems 
to  prefer  an  open,  swampy  country  to  the  timber.  The  northern 
limit  of  this  animal  is  about  latitude  67°  north  where  it  is 
found  on  the  headwaters  of  the  rivers  emptying  into  the  Arctic 
and  occasionally  on  the  streams  emptying  into  Kotzebue  Sound, 
and  in  the  interior  of  the  Kotzebue  Peninsula.  Being  an  expert 
fisher,  the  brown  bear  frequents  during  the  salmon  season  all  riv- 
ers emptying  into  Bering  Sea  and  the  North  Pacific  and  their  trib- 
utaries as  far  as  the  fish  will  go  and  at  the  end  of  the  annual  run 
of  fish  the  animal  retreats  in  the  recesses  of  hills  and  tundra  where 
berries  and  small  game  are  most  plentiful.  The  banks  of  all  the 
streams  are  lined  on  either  side  with  the  well-trodden  trails  of 
these  huge  animals  offering  better  facilities  for  the  progress  of  the 
traveller  than  do  the  paths  of  men.  The  brown  bear  is  the  great 
road-maker  of  Alaska,  and  not  only  are  the  swampy  plains  inter- 
sected with  paths  made  by  him  in  all  directions,  leading  generally 
to  the  easiest  fording  places  of  streams  and  rivers,  but  the  hills 
and  ridges  of  mountains  to  the  very  top  show  the  traces  of  this 
omnipresent  traveler.  He  shows  great  judgment  and  local  know- 
ledge, for  his  road  up  the  mountain  is  as  safe  to  follow  as  is  the 
most  practicable  route.  In  greatest  numbers  this  animal  is  found 
in  the  region  between  the  lower  Kuskokvim,  the  Togiak  and  the 


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155 


Nushegak  rivers  and  also  on  the  Aliaska  Peninsula  and  the  island 
of  Unimak.  The  island  of  Kadiak  is  full  of  this  species  of  bear, 
but  the  largest  specimens  are  shipped  from  the  coast  of  Cook 
Inlet.  The  skin  of  a  bear  that  had  been  killed  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  Kenai  mission  during  last  summer,  which  I  measured, 
was  fourteen  feet  two  inches  in  length.  On  the  steep  sides  of  the 
volcanic  range  of  mountains,  on  the  west  side  of  Cook  Inlet, 
brown  bears  can  be  seen  in  herds  of  twenty  or  thirty.  Their  skins 
are  not  very  valuable,  and,  owing  to  this  fact  and  to  the  fierce 
disposition  of  the  animals,  they  are  not  commonly  hunted.  All 
natives  of  Alaska  respect  them  and  it  is  the  universal  custom  of 
hunters  to  address  a  few  complimentary  remarks  to  the  intended 
victims  before  attempting  to  kill  them.  Perhaps  the  skins  of  fully 
one-half  of  the  brown  bears  killed  throughout  Alaska  are  retained 
by  the  natives  for  bedding  and  to  hang  before  the  entrances  of 
houses  in  place  of  doors.  The  smaller  skins  are  tanned  and  cut  up 
into  straps  and  lines  and  the  natives  of  the  interior  utilize  them 
for  manufacturing  sledge  fastenings  and  the  network  bottoms  of 
snowshoes,  because  this  leather  does  not  stretch  when  exposed 
to  moisture,  as  moose  and  deer  skins  do. 

The  Black  Bear  (Ursiis  americanus).  The  black  bear  of 
Alaska  is  widely  distributed  over  the  continental  portion  of  the 
territory,  but  is  generally  confined  to  regions  of  timber  and 
mountains ;  as  far  as  known,  it  exists  only  on  a  few  islands  in 
Prince  William  Sound  and  on  Kadiak  Island.  The  northern 
limit  of  the  black  bear  extends,  according  to  observations  made 
by  Mr.  E.  W.  Nelson,  even  beyond  that  of  his  brown  cousin.  It 
is  said  to  exist  farther  down  the  rivers  emptying  into  the  Arctic, 
and  to  be  quite  plentiful  thence  southward  to  the  valley  of  the 
Yukon.  The  western  limit  of  the  region  where  the  black  bear  is 
found  is  perhaps  a  line  drawn  from  the  Selawik  River  southeast- 
ward to  Nulato,  thence  across  to  the  Kuskokvim  River  in  the 
vicinity  of  Kalmakovsky.  From  the  upper  Nushegak  many  skins 
are  obtained,  and  one  trader  reports  black  bear  even  west  of  this 
line,  on  the  lower  left  bank  of  the  Kuskokvim  and  the  Togiak 
Peninsula,  but  as  that  region  is  not  timbered  the  statement  ap- 
pears doubtful.  From  Bristol  Bay  eastward  the  black  bear  is 
confined  to  the  timbered  regions  about  Lake  Ilyamna,  but  is  more 
plentiful  on  the  coast  of  Cook  Inlet  and  in  the  interior  of  the 
Kenai  Peninsula.  From  the  headwaters  of  the  Yukon,  Ten- 
nanah,  Sushetno,  Kinik,  and  Copper  rivers  many  black  bear  skins 
are  brought  down  to  the  seacoast,and  from  Prince  William  Sound 
and  eastward  the  mountains  and  forests  harbor  large  number  of 
these  animals.  These  skins  command  high  prices  and  are  still 
increasing  in  value,  but  the  animals  are  shy,  and  to  hunt  them  re- 


156         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Ouide. 


quires  much  time  and  patience.  The  natives  do  not  fear  them  in 
the  least,  and,  in  fact,  it  is  considered  the  work  of  boys  to  kill 
them.  Owing  to  its  value,  probably,  the  natives  never  use  the 
black  bear  skin  for  bedding.  The  glossiest  and  largest  of  these 
skins  come  from  the  St.  Elias  alpine  range  and  the  vicinity  of 
Prince  William  Sound  ;  but  the  black  bear  never  attains  the  size 
of  the  brown  variety. 

The  Red  Fox  (Vulpes  fulvns).  The  only  fur-bearing  ani- 
mal found  in  every  section  of  Alaska  is  the  red  fox.  From  Point 
Barrow  to  the  southern  boundary,  and  from  the  British  line  to  the 
island  of  Attn,  this  animal  is  ever  present.  It  varies  in  size  and 
quality  of  its  fur  from  the  finest  Nushegak  variety,  equal  to  the 
high-priced  Siberian  fire  fox  down  to  the  diminutive,  yellow- 
tinged  specimen  that  rambles  furtively  over  the  rocky  islands  of 
the  Aleutian  chain.  Its  color  gives  variety  among  the  uniform 
snow-white  robes  of  its  polar  cousin  along  the  Arctic  shore,  and 
with  the  unwelcome  persistency  of  the  poor  relation  it  mingles 
with  the  aristocratic  black  and  silver  foxes,  always  managing  to 
deteriorate  in  course  of  time  the  blood  and  coating  of  the  ''first 
families.''  Mountain  or  valley,  forest  or  swampy  plain,  all  seem 
to  be  the  same  to  him.  The  red  fox  seems  perfectly  indififerent 
these  animals".  These  skins  command  high  prices  and  are  still 
in  regard  to  his  diet,  fish,  flesh  and  fowl  being  equally  to  his  taste, 
with  such  little  entremets  as  shellfish,  mussels,  and  eggs  of  aquatic 
birds.  He  has  an  advantage  over  his  fellows  in  the  fact  that  his 
skin  is  cheap,  and  the  natives  do  not  eat  his  flesh  except  as  a  last 
resort  in  times  of  a  famine.  They  hunt  or  trap  the  red  fox  only 
when  nothing  else  can  be  obtained :  the  interior  tribes,  however, 
make  winter  garments  of  their  skins. 

Being  an  inveterate  and  intrepid  traveller,  the  red  fox  is  not 
above  making  an  occasional  sea  voyage  on  the  ice,  which  explains 
his  presence  on  all  the  islands  of  the  Aleutian  chain,  the  Shuma- 
gin  group,  and  even  on  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Pribilof  islands, 
over  a  hundred  miles  from  any  other  land.  It  is  common  prac- 
tice among  both  Innuit  and  Indian  tribes  in  the  north  to  make 
household  pets  of  young  foxes  whenever  they  can  be  secured  alive. 
The  average  price  of  red-fox  skins  throughout  the  country  is 
about  $i.oo. 

The  Black  or  Silver  "Fox  (Vtdpes  fiilvus,  var,  argentatus)  and 
The  Cross  Fox  (Vulpes  fulvus,  var.  decussatus).  The  king  among 
the  various  tribes  of  the  'Vulpes''  family  is  the  black  or  silver 
fox.  He  is  found  in  his  prime  in  the  mountain  fastnesses  of 
the  interior  and  on  the  headwaters  of  the  larger  rivers.  Here 
he  appears  of  large  size  with  long,  soft,  silky  fur,  varying  in 
color  from  a  silver  tint  to  a  jet-black,  the  latter  being  the 


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157 


most  rare  and  highly  valued.  These  two  qualities  are 
found  principally  in  the  mountains  on  the  boundary  between 
southeastern  Alaska  and  British  Columbia,  in  the  country  of  the 
Chilkhats  and  the  Takoos,  on  the  upper  Copper  River,  the  Kenai 
Peninsula,  and  on  the  Sushetno  and  Kinik,  the  upper  Yukon, 
Tennanah,  and  Kuskokvim  rivers.  In  the  last-named  regions 
the  traders  pay  from  $10.00  to  $15.00  for  each  skin,  but  in  south- 
eastern Alaska,  where  competition  is  more  fierce,  as  much  as 
$40.00  or  $50.00  in  coin  are  frequently  paid  for  a  single  skin. 
Along  the  Yukon  and  its  northern  tributaries  the  black  fox  of 
an  inferior  quality  is  found  almost  on  the  seacoast  and  on  the 
shores  of  Norton  Sound  and  in  the  interior  of  the  Kotzebue  Penin- 
sula. The  animal  is  also  reported  to  exist  on  the  headwaters  of  the 
Colville  River  up  to  the  sixty-eighth  degree  of  latitude.  Black  foxes 
are  quite  plentiful  on  Kadiak  Island,  and  they  occur  on  the  Shu- 
magin  group,  Onimak  Island,  and  on  most  of  the  Aleutian  Is- 
lands as  far  as  Atkha,  but  to  many  of  these  points  they  have  been 
imported  through  the  agency  of  man.  On  the  timberless  high- 
lands of  the  Far  West  the  fur  of  these  animals  seems  to  deter- 
iorate in  quality. 

Another  species  of  the  fox  family  is  generally  found  with  the 
silver  fox,  forming,  in  fact,  the  connecting  link  between  the  red 
plebeian  and  the  black  aristocrat.  This  is  the  cross  fox,  partak- 
ing of  the  distinguishing  qualities  of  both  red  and  black,  evi- 
dently the  result  of  unrestrained  intermixture.  The  quality  and 
the  color  of  the  fur  of  the  cross  fox  come  much  nearer  those  of 
the  red,  and  the  skin  of  the  former  exceeds  that  of  the  latter  but 
little  in  value — from  $2.00  to  $3.00  being  paid  for  the  best  of  them. 
While  the  distribution  of  the  cross  fox  is  naturally  almost  identi- 
cal with  that  of  the  silver  varietv,  the  animal  is  found  farther 
westward  on  the  Aleutian  Islands,  and  is  more  frequent  on  the 
Aliaska  Peninsula,  though  on  the  islands  of  Prince  William 
Sound  and  on  Kadiak  Island  both  the  black  and  the  cross  varieties 
exist. 

The  skins  of  silver  foxes  form  the  most  important  element  in 
the  trade  of  the  whole  Yukon  Basin,  being  almost  the  only  high- 
priced  skins  found  in  that  vicinity,  but  they  are  by  no  means  nu- 
merous. The  only  section  of  xA^laska  where  these  animals  are  of 
the  best  quality  and  in  large  numbers  at  the  same  time,  is  in 
the  mountains  about  the  Chilkhat  and  Takoo  rivers,  and  there  the 
reckless  competition  leaves  but  little  margin  for  profit. 

The  Arctic  Fox  (Viilpes  lagopus — blue  and  white).  Of  the 
Arctic  fox  we  find  in  Alaska  two  varieties — one  white  and  the 
other  a  bluish  o-ray,  commonly  called  ''blue  fox''  by  the  traders. 
The  white  fox  is  found  along  the  coast  of  continental  Alaska 


158 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


from  the  mouth  of  the  Kuskokvim  northward  to  Point  Barrow 
and  the  eastern  boundary.  Its  fur  is  of  a  snowy  white,  especially 
in  the  young,  and  both  soft  and  long;  but,  owing  to  the  lack  of 
durability,  it  does  not  command  a  high  price  in  the  market. 

The  animal  is  very  numerous  northward  of  Norton  Sound, 
and  not  at  all  shy.  Natives  and  travellers  alike  report  instances 
of  the  fearlessness  with  which  these  foxes  enter  their  camps,  and 
even  dwellings  in  search  of  food  or  out  of  mere  curiosity.  A 
large  portion  of  the  skins  secured  by  Eskimo  and  other  natives 
are  used  by  themselves  for  trimming  their  garments,  and  the  re- 
mainder falls  chiefly  into  the  hands  of  whalers  and  whisky  smug- 
glers, so  that  it  is  impossible  to  obtain  accurate  figures  as  to  the 
annual  catch.  They  may  be  called  omnivorous,  and  they  refuse 
nothing  that  will  fill  their  stomachs.  I  observed  one  sleek  and 
apparently  well-fed  specimen  which  devoured  nearly  the  whole 
of  a  large  salmon,  and  afterwards  worried  down  with  consider- 
able difficulty  a  thick  leather  strap  with  a  heavy  buckle  attached  to 
it.  In  the  depth  of  winter  the  natives  find  it  unsafe  to  leave  any 
article  of  clothing,  dog  harness,  or  boat  material  within  their 
reach. 

The  blue  fox  exists  now  on  several  of  the  Aleutian  Islands, 
where  it  was  found  by  the  first  discoverers  in  1741.  The  animal 
is  also  found  on  the  Pribilof  Islands,  and  here,  where  it  has  been 
possible  to  protect  the  species  against  intermixture  with  other 
and  inferior  foxes,  the  skins  are  of  the  finest  quality,  command- 
ing a  high  price  in  the  market.  Traders  report  the  existence  of 
the  blue  fox  to  a  limited  extent  in  the  vicinity  of  Oogashik,  on  the 
Aliaska  Peninsula  and  also  on  the  lower  Kuskokvim,  and  it  occurs 
also  on  the  delta  between  the  mouths  of  the  Yukon  and  Kus- 
kokvim. Captain  Hooper,  of  the  revenue  marine,  who  com- 
manded the  United  States  steamer  ''Corwin"  during  two  success- 
ive cruises  in  the  Arctic,  reports  that  he  saw  blue  foxes  at  Cape 
Espenberg,  Elephant  Point,  Hotham  Inlet,  Point  Hope,  Point 
Belcher,  and  Point  Barrow.  The  same  gentleman  also  states  that 
he  "found  the  blue  fox  much  more  plentiful  on  the  Siberian  than 
on  the  American  coast,  and  that  all  of  the  blue  foxes  in  the  far 
north  are  so  inferior  to  those  on  the  islands  of  Bering  Sea  as  to 
suggest  the  possibility  of  their  being  a  dififerent  species.''  Even 
on  the  Arctic  coast  Captain  Hooper  saw  blue  foxes,  taken  at  the 
same  time  and  place,  dififering  very  much  in  the  color  and  quality 
of  the  fur.  On  the  Pribilof  islands,  from  1,000  to  1,500  of  the 
best  quality  of  blue-fox  skins  are  annually  shipped,  and  several 
hundred  of  a  little  inferior  quality  from  Attoo  and  Atkha  islands, 
but  it  is  impossible  to  acertain  the  quantity  obtained  along  the 
Arctic  coast  by  whalers  and  illicit  traders. 


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159 


The  Mink  (Pntorkis  vison).  The  Alaska  mink  is  distri- 
buted almost  as  widely  as  the  red  fox,  but  does  not  extend  to  the 
islands.  It  is  most  plentiful  in  the  vast  tundras  or  mossy  marshes 
of  the  lower  Yukon,  Kuskokvim,  Togiak  and  Nushegak  ba- 
sins. The  skin  is  of  very  little  value ;  the  Russian- Americar 
Company  did  not  purchase  it  at  all,  and  even  now  the  trade  in 
this  article  is  confined  chiefly  to  the  natives,  who  manufacture  it 
into  garments  or  use  it  for  trimming.  No  more  than  10,000  or 
15,000  of  these  small  skins  are  exported  annually.  The  northern 
limit  of  the  mink  is  but  little  south  of  the  Arctic  coast,  and  from 
thence  southward  it  is  found  everywhere  throughout  the  conti- 
nent until  its  southern  and  western  limits  are  reached  on  the  Ali- 
aska  Peninsula  on  a  line  between  Cape  Stroganof  and  Sutkhum 
Island.  The  only  islands  on  which  minks  are  found  to  exist  are 
those  in  Prince  William  Sound  and  perhaps  some  of  those  in  the 
Alexander  Archipelago.  No  skins  of  this  kind  shipped  from  any 
portion  of  Alaska  equal  in  quality  or  value  those  of  British  Colum- 
bia, Washington,  and  Oregon,  the  traders  simply  buying  them 
for  the  sake  of  accomodating  their  customers.  The  region  about 
Togiak  River  and  lakes,  which  furnishes  scarcely  any  other  fur 
than  mink,  has  for  that  reason  been  entirely  neglected  by  traders. 
Until  a  year  ago  no  white  man  had  penetrated  into  the  recesses 
of  the  tundras^  and  the  inhabitants,  having  no  intercourse  with 
civilized  men,  are  still  in  their  primitive  condition  of  barbarism. 
The  natives  living  on  the  Yukon  and  Kuskokvim  deltas  are  called 
''mink  people"  in  derision  by  their  neighbors — a  term  equivalent 
to  beggar. 

The  Marten  (Mustela  ainericamis) ,  The  limits  within 
which  the  marten  is  found  throughout  Alaska  are  almost  identi- 
cal with  those  of  standing  timber.  The  animal  is  found  occasion- 
ally as  far  north  as  latitude  68°  and  inhabits  the  valleys  of  the 
Yukon,  Kukokvim,  and  Nushegak  rivers  from  the  headwaters 
down  as  far  as  timber  exists,  on  the  wooded  mountain  ranges  of 
Cook  Inlet  and  the  Kenai  Peninsula.  On  the  Chugatch  alps,  the 
Copper  River  range,  and  the  St.  Elias  alps  martens  are  plentiful 
and  of  the  finest  quality.  Very  fine  skins  of  this  kind  are  also 
purchased  by  the  traders  in  southeastern  Alaska,  a  portion  of  these 
probably  being  obtained  from  the  British  possessions.  The  Alas- 
kan marten  or  sable  is  inferior  to  the  Siberian  fur  of  that  name 
(''sable''  is  simply  a  corruption  of  the  Russian  word  for  marten 
"sobol,"  and  is  by  no  means  a  distinct  animal).  The  Russian- 
American  Company  considered  the  Alaska  sable  of  so  little  value 
that  they  did  not  export  it  at  all  from  the  colonies,  but  sold  the 
whole  catch  to  officers  and  employes  of  the  company.  The 
price  set  upon  these  skins  under  those  circumstances  was  small 


160 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


indeed,  being  only  lo  cents  each.  After  the  transfer  of  the 
Territory  a  demand  for  them  arose,  and  in  a  few  years  of  com- 
petition raised  the  price  to  $4,  $5,  and  even  $6,  much  to  the  de- 
light of  the  astonished  natives,  but  the  inferiority  of  the  article 
soon  made  itself  felt,  and  reaction  set  in  .until  at  the  present  day 
the  price  of  marten  skins  in  northwestern  Alaska  does  not  exceed 
$1.50,  though  in  the  southeastern  section  excessive  competition 
still  keeps  up  a  higher  figure. 

A  few  more  fur-bearing  animals  existing  in  Alaska  may  be 
mentioned,  but  they  are  not  of  sufficient  importance  to  deserve 
more  than  a  passing  notice.  The  polar  bear  is  found  on  the  Arc- 
tic coast,  where  ice  in  large  bodies  exists,  and  with  the  moving 
ice  fields  he  enters  and  leaves  the  waters  of  Bering  Sea.  The 
number  of  skins  annually  secured  forms  but  a  very  small  item  in 
the  bulk  of  trade. 

The  Lynx.  The  lynx  is  found  only  in  the  wood  mountains 
of  the  interior  on  the  Kenai  peninsula  and  the  St.  Elias  range 
of  mountains,  the  skins  being  used  chiefly  for  carriage  robes  and 
trimming,  but  the  fur  is  not  durable. 

Wolves,  both  gray  and  white,  are  found,  but  rarely  killed. 

Muskrats  exist  all  over  Alaska,  but  the  skins  are  at  most 
valueless,  and  but  few  are  shipped  away. 

Rabbits  and  marmots  are  killed  only  for  their  flesh,  and  oc- 
casionally the  natives  use  the  skins  of  the  latter  for  the  garments 
of  the  poor. 

Wolverines  are  rarely  exported,  as  they  find  a  ready  market 
among  the  inhabitants  of  the  coast  region  of  the  Yukon  and  Kus- 
kokvim  divisions,  who  prefer  this  shaggy  piebald  fur  to  any  other 
trimming  for  their  garments. 


PART  TWO 


Encyclopedia 

of 

Hunting  and  Trapping  The  Fur  Bearing  Animals 

of 

NORTH  AMERICA 
Especially  Pertaining  to 

TRAPPING 

How  to  Skin  Animals,  Manner  of  Stretching  Skins,  Trappers  Secrets, 
Preparing  Decoys  and  Poison;  How  to  Make  Dead  Falls, 
Box,  Barrel  and  other  Traps,  Sliding,  Spring  Poles, 
Snares,  Kind  of  Traps  to  Use  and  Manner 
of  Setting  Them. 

Illustrating  All 
RAW   FUR  SKINS 

Steel  Traps,  Dead  Falls,  Box  Traps,  Dug  Outs,  Pit  Falls,  Etc. 

TRAPPING  THE  ERMINE  OR  WEASEL. 

The  weasel  and  ermine  kill  indiscriminately  for  food  and 
pleasure  such  birds  and  animals  as  it  can  master;  chief  amongst 
them  are  mice,  rats,  rabbits,  ground  and  chirping  squirrels  and 
nearly  all  birds  and  fowls,  both  wild  and  domestic.  Both 
of  these  diminutive  monsters,  in  their  ceaseless  quest  for  food  and 
to  satisfy  their  individual  irresistible  craving  for  blood,  dart 
from  one  opening  into  another,  whether  that  be  a  hollow  log, 
burrow,  stone  pile  or  crevice  of  a  rock.  Upon  exploration,  should 
the  abode  be  unoccupied,  the  animal's  stay  is  a  momentary  one, 
and  it  will  immediately  decamp,  taking  the  shortest  route  to  the 
next  opening ;  if  inhabited,  a  general  tumult  follows.  The  weasel 
and  ermine  are  more  beneficial  than  detrimental  in  farming  com- 
munities and  should  only  be  killed  when  continued  losses  of  poul- 
try occur.  The  animal's  favorite  hold  is  upon  the  neck,  and  it 
quenches  its  insatiable  vampire-like  thirst  by  lapping  the  blood 
from  its  victim. 

If  the  animal's  capture  is  desired,  it  can  be  accomplished  by 
steel  traps  placed  in  their  run-ways,  holes,  crevices,  burrows,  etc. 
In  most  cases,  the  animal  is  taken  in  traps  originally  set  for 
mink  and  marten.  The  same  methods  as  are  applied  to  mink 
and  marten  should  be  followed  in  the  capture  of  these  two  ani- 
mals. A  good  place  to  set  the  steel  trap  is  in  a  hollow  tree,  hollow 
log,  abandoned  hole  or  abode  of  other  animals,  and  in  the  front 
or  rear  of  small  openings  through  which  the  animal  enters.  Wire 
traps  can  be  used  advantageously,  so  can  tree  traps ;  the  latter  can 
be  utilized  in  various  places.   Bait  is  unnecessary  when  the  traps 


WEASEL  AND  ERMINE  SKINS  "Raw*' 

All  Sizes.   Scale  Shows  Inches  and  Feet, 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


163 


are  set  in  their  habitual  run-ways ;  at  other  places  a  piece  of  meat 
hung  over  the  trap,  or  head  of  a  chicken  or  rabbit,  placed  within 
the  abode,  will  answer  admirably. 

The  skins  should  be  handled  similarly  to  mink  or  marten 
skins;  the  fur  part  can  be  on  the  out  or  inside.  A  three-piece 
stretcher  is  recommended ;  the  skin  is  very  tender,  and  great  care 
must  be  exercised  in  stretching  and  removing  the  skin  from  the 
stretcher  not  to  tear  or  burst  it.  Only  white-furred  skins  should 
be  marketed  as  the  brown  skins  have  no  commercial  value,  but 
should  one  of  the  latter  species  be  captured,  it  is  a  useless  waste 
of  time  to  skin  the  animal  and  stretch  the  skin. 

Traps  can  be  baited  with  bits  of  meat,  hung  over  the  trap. 
A  good  place  to  set  the  trap  is  in  a  hollow  tree,  hollow  log, 
abandoned  holes  or  abodes  of  other  animals.  Bait  should  be 
used. 

TRAPPING  THE  MINK. 

These  animals  are  caught  in  various  ways,  depending  upon 
the  location,  time  of  year,  on  land  or  in  water.  Some  trappers 
consider  the  capturing  of  this  animal  an  easy  task ;  others  con- 
tend that  the  animal  is  equally  as  sly  and  as  cute  as  the  red  fox. 
The  mink  certainly  and  readily  scents  the  hunter,  trapper  or 
works  of  man,  and  will  shy  on  his  approach  and  from  things 
made  by  him,  especially  on  or  about  his  usual  paths. 

The  animal  is  captured  by  the  use  of  snares,  steel  traps,  dead- 
falls, box,  barrel  and  other  home-made  traps ;  also  the  rifle  is 
sometimes  resorted  to,  but  the  trapper  who  makes  trapping  a 
business,  is  contented  with  the  former  three  methods  of  captur- 
ing the  mink. 

Snares  are  resorted  to  by  all  classes  of  trappers,  even  to 
the  present  day,  not  only  in  this  country,  but  also  in  Europe. 
The  snares  are  made  out  of  strong  linen  or  silk  thread,  silk 
lines,  linen  lines,  copper  or  brass  wires;  also  horsehairs.  The 
proper  way  and  place  to  set  these  snares  is  about  the  paths  or 
in  front  of  the  holes  which  the  animal  frequents.  Some  mfike 
an  artificial  abode  and  place  bait  therein,  and  as  the  mink  enters 
becomes  caught.  Spring  poles  or  other  methods  should  be 
adapted  or  attached  to  the  snares,  which  takes  the  animal  off  the 
ground,  otherwise  the  victim  is  likely  to  be  carried  away  or  the 
fur  badly  damaged  by  such  animals  as  the  fox,  fisher,  wolf  and 
wolverene,  or  manage  to  escape. 

The  use  of  the  rifle  is  advised,  though  the  skins  becomes  more 
or  less  damaged.  The  shot-gun  is  detrimental  to  the  skin,  and 
the  practice  of  killing  the  animal  with  this  instrument  should  be 
avoided  whenever  possible. 


MINK  SKINS.  "Dressed" 

All  Sizes.   Northern  and  Northwest.   Scale  Shows  Inches  and  Feet. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  165 


The  reader  is  directed  to  carefully  peruse  the  article  under 
marten,  fox,  muskrat;  also  to  study  the  art  of  making  and 
setting  of  the  various  kinds  of  traps,  the  illustrations  of  which 
can  be  found  on  other  pages.  As  this  animal  can  be  captured 
in  so  many  different  ways,  almost  any  of  the  styles  can  be 
successfully  adapted  in  the  capture  of  the  mink  as  well  as  the 
marten.  It  is  not  an  easy  matter  to  kill  minks,  as  trappers  say 
the  mink  has  seven  lives,  and  naturally  the  animal  dies  hard; 
therefore,  in  hunting  the  animal  with  the  rifle  or  shot-gun,  the 
wound,  in  order  to  become  effective,  must  be  a  severe  one,  as  a 
mere  flesh  wound  will  only  retard  the  animal  momentarily. 

The  use  of  steel  traps  is  preferred,  but  when  inconvenient 
or  the  supply  becomes  exhausted,  other  home-made  traps  can  be 
resorted  to ;  but  regardless  of  the  kind  of  traps  used,  the  chief  aim 
and  ambition  of  the  trapper  should  be  to  use  such  traps  that  will 
securely  hold  the  animal  and  retain  the  value  of  the  pelt,  also 
to  cause  a  speedy  death.  Steel  traps  should  be  set  along 
river  banks,  and  generally  where  one  creek  empties  into  another, 
upon  paths,  about  holes,  stumps  or  trees  and  hollow  logs.  If  the 
trapper  cannot  find  a  convenient  place  to  set  his  traps  it  sometimes 
behooves  him  to  dig  a  hole  or  to  make  an  artificial  abode.  If  the 
latter  is  attempted,  care  and  judgment  in  retaining  the  natural  sur- 
roundings of  the  former  conditions  is  essential,  and  the  use  of 
a  good  bait  is  recommended. 

The  author  has  set  steel  traps.  No.  and  No.  2,  also  has 
seen  experienced  trappers  set  such  traps  in  barricaded  places 
using  an  old  tree,  stones,  ground,  sod,  etc.,  to  make  the  abode. 
The  making  of  such  an  abode  is  simple,  effective  and  success- 
ful, although  the  trapper  is  sometimes  obliged  to  wait  for  days 
or  weeks  for  a  victim.  The  traps  should  be  set  at  a  convenient 
place  about  the  opening,  somewhat  below  the  level  of  the  earth, 
and  covered  with  fine  bits  of  loose  earth  or  leaves ;  a  little  cotton 
or  leaves  should  be  placed  under  the  pan.  Bits  of  rotten  wood 
or  feathers,  whenever  the  latter  are  handy,  should  be  strewn 
about  the  trap  and  within  the  abode.  Great  care  should  be  taken 
that  the  animal  is  obliged  to  enter  the  opening  left,  and  not  to 
force  an  entrance  in  some  other  vital  or  detrimental  part  of  the 
abode. 

If  bait  is  used,  the  latter  should  be  placed  six  to  eight  inches 
beyond  the  trap  in  the  abode.  The  proper  bait  to  use  is  birds, 
fish,  pieces  of  muskrat,  or  fish  oil.  If  meat  is  used,  same  should 
be  smoked.  Some  trappers  burn  a  piece  of  paper  or  some  dry 
leaves  in  the  abode  after  the  meat  bait  is  set,  thus  eradicating 
human  scent,  and  at  the  same  time  smoking  the  meat.  A  spring 
or  sliding  pole  should  be  used  whenever  possible,  as  the  former 


Upper  Row  MINK  and  MARTEN  SKINS  I.ow  Row 

Mink  Skins  Center  Marten  Skins  Marten  Skins 

Improperly  Skinned 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


167 


will  lift  the  animal  in  the  air,  the  other  carry  the  victim  into  deep 
water  to  drown. 

Deadfalls  or  other  homemade  traps  working  on  this  principle, 
are  often  used,  especially  by  trappers  in  the  far  interior,  who 
find  plenty  of  time  to  make  them.  A  good  way  to  make  a  trap  is 
to  procure  a  two-inch  plank,  about  one  to  two  feet  long,  six  to 
eight  inches  wide,  into  which  a  two-inch  hole  should  be  bored, 
and  sharpened  nails  driven  into  the  plank  about  the  hole,  in 
such  a  manner  that  if  the  mink  places  his  head  into  the  hole 
after  bait,  it  cannot  be  withdrawn,  as  the  nails  will  prevent  the 
withdrawal,  and  naturally  the  animal  is  in  a  helpless  condition. 
The  nails  must  not  be  driven  too  close  nor  too  far,  and  the  open- 
ing must  be  sufficient  to  permit  the  animal  to  place  his  head 
through.  Care  must  be  taken  that  the  animal  will  not  escape  by 
sliding  clear  through.    See  illustration  for  particulars. 

The  mink  as  well  as  the  marten  can  be  successfully  lured  to 
the  place  where  traps  are  set.  Many  decoys  are  good ;  the  most 
common  and  easiest  to  procure  is  fish  oil.  Elsewhere  in  this  book 
will  be  found  methods  of  making  these  decoys,  manner  in  which 
they  are  used,  etc.  Some  trappers  smear  some  of  this  decoy  on 
their  boots ;  others  drag  scented  bait  along  the  paths. 

Wire  traps  can  be  successfully  used ;  many  trappers  prefer 
them  when  they  have  an  opportunity  to  set  a  trap  in  front  of  a 
hole,  as  a  matter  of  fact  they  all  recommend  them  in  such  cases. 
They  are  conveniently  carried,  easy  to  set  and  cost  less  than 
steel  traps.    Use  the  No.  2. 

A  new  trap  called  the  ''Tree  Trap"  is  being  used  and  while 
some  claim  this  trap  cannot  be  set  except  on  trunks  of  trees, 
others  use  them  at  different  locations  with  good  success.  There 
are  now  so  many  makes  of  traps  that  what  one  trapper  likes 
another  would  not  have,  but  the  majority,  especially  the  success- 
ful trappers,  stick  to  the  Newhouse. 

TRAPPING  THE  MARTEN. 

These  animals  are  as  difficult  to  capture  as  minks,  and  as 
they  largely  inhal^t  extremely  cold  regions,  the  weather  forces 
increased  hardships  upon  the  hunter  or  trapper.  Martens  are 
captured  in  traps  similar  to  minks,  but  the  traps  are  set  more  in 
the  woods  about  bushes,  hollow  logs  and  sometimes  in  holes  in 
the  ground. 

It  is  seldom  that  a  rifle  can  be  used  effectively;  however, 
woodsmen  and  expert  hunters  find  little  difficulty  in  bringing 
down  this  valuable  fur-bearing  animal.  The  many  skins  that  are 
received  by  fur  dealers  show  signs  that  death  was  caused  by  a 
penetrating  bullet.    The  bait  is  usually  birds,  fish,  wild  fowl  and 


No.  2,  Partly  Prime 
Canada 


Skins  of 
FISHERS 


No.  3,  Unprime 
Michigan 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  169 


pieces  of  meat.  It  must  be  remembered  that  the  bait  need  not 
be  large;  on  the  other  hand  small  pieces  only  are  required. 
Heads  of  various  species  of  fish,  geese,  ducks  and  legs  of  rabbits 
are  sufficient  and  suitable. 

The  average  trapper  prefers  the  Newhouse  steel  traps,  and 
the  hunter  his  trusty  rifle.  It  should  be  noted  that  many  times 
mink,  instead  of  marten,  become  the  victim;  therefore  the  same 
tactics  should  be  used  for  both  animals,  especially  if  the  traps 
are  set  upon  land  and  in  a  timber  country. 

In  former  years  the  marten  was  ordinarily  captured  in 
wooden  traps  of  very  simple  construction,  made  by  the  inhabitants 
in  the  vicinity  in  which  the  animal  was  captured.  (See  illustration.) 
These  figure-four  arrangements  are  usually  enclosed  in  a  line 
of  stakes  driven  into  the  ground  in  the  form  of  a  V  or  U.  The 
marten  is  forced  to  enter  an  opening  especially  left  for  him,  and 
in  seeking  the  bait,  steps  upon  the  trigger.  At  other  times  the 
bait  is  attached  to  the  trigger  itself,  and  when  the  animal  disturbs 
same  the  log  falls  upon  his  head,  smashing  the  skull.  Lines  of 
such  traps  extend  many  miles.  The  bait  used  by  Indians,  half- 
breeds  and  the  early  trappers,  was  a  piece  of  squirrel,  fish,  bird 
or  rabbit. 

One  of  the  greatest  obstacles  that  the  early  marten  trapper 
had  to  contend  with  in  most  parts  of  Canada,  was  the  persistent 
destruction  of  these  traps  by  the  wolverene  and  fisher.  These  ani- 
mals, especially  the  former,  displayed  great  cunning  and  perse- 
verence,  and  intentionally  followed  these  lines  of  traps,  not  for 
the  purpose  of  obtaining  the  bait  but  to  destroy  the  traps  and 
seemingly  to  make  the  marten  hunters'  Hfe  miserable. 

The  marten  is  also  captured  by  snares;  he  being  an  expert 
climber,  the  snares  can  be  arranged  between  the  forks  of  trees 
through  which  the  animal  passes  in  his  upward  flight;  at  other 
times  in  openings  of  hollow  trees.  These  home-made  traps  and 
contrivances  have  been  replaced  by  the  steel  trap.  As  many 
as  two  hundred  traps  are  attended  to  by  a  single  trapper.  These 
traps  like  the  old  figure  four  arrangement,  are  set  in  abodes  and 
left  there  during  the  entire  season.  A  Hudson  Bay  Trapper 
informed  the  author  that  these  abodes  are  not  specifically  made 
to  draw  the  animal  into,  but  more  so  to  protect  the  setting  from 
bad  weather,  also  to  keep  rabbits  and  birds  from  springing  the 
traps. 

Wire  traps  can  be  used,  also  the  new  Tree  Traps,  but  from 
best  information  obtainable  neither  of  these  take  well  with  the 
old  and  experienced  marten  trappers.  Set  guns  are  now  pro- 
hibited in  most  states  and  parts  of  Canada,  and  their  use  should 
be  discontinued. 


170 


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TRAPPING  THE  FISHER. 

This  animal  is  caught  in  steel  traps  similar  to  mink,  marten, 
and  often  the  trapper,  much  to  his  surprise,  finds  a  fisher  instead 
of  the  smaller  animal;  also  traps  set  for  foxes  and  wolves  are 
sprung  by  the  fisher.  The  fisher  is  exceedingly  strong,  and  a 
powerful  animal  for  its  size,  therefore  the  use  of  No.  2j4 
and  No.  3  traps  are  better  adapted  than  the  smaller  mink  or 
marten  traps.  His  food  consists  chiefly  of  small  animals, 
such  as  rabbits,  squirrels,  mice,  rats,  birds,  and  he  consumes 
large  quantities  of  fish,  although  the  former  are  preferred  by 
him.  He  lives,  the  greater  part  of  the  time,  in  bushes  and 
timber  country,  in  close  vicinity  to  water ;  but  is  known  to  lie 
on  shore,  especially  on  a  log  that  lays  across  a  river  or  creek, 
for  hours,  watching  the  opportunity  to  capture  the  slick  pickerel 
or  trout. 

If  the  animal  is  to  be  lured  to  the  trap  by  the  use  of  decoy, 
the  trap  should  be  barricaded  by  and  with  logs,  stumps,  stones, 
earth,  weeds,  etc.,  leaving  one  place  of  access.  It  is  advisable 
to  have  the  trap  set  at  least  six  inches  within  the  abode,  and 
the  bait  placed  eighteen  to  twenty  inches  beyond  the  trap.  The 
opening  should  be  six  to  eight  inches  in  diameter.  Some  trappers 
prefer  to  make  a  slight  excavation  before  covering  and  bar- 
ricading the  trap. 

While  in  Winnipeg  I  spoke  to  an  old  Hudson  Bay  trapper 
in  regard  to  trapping  fisher,  and  was  informed  that  spring  poles 
should  be  used  in  preference  to  any  other  appliances  in  con- 
nection with  steel  traps ;  but  the  author  believes  equally  as  good 
results  can  be  obtained  by  having  traps  attached  to  more 
modern  appliances  for  lifting  the  animal  from  the  ground 
and  beyond  harm  of  the  wolf  and  other  animals.  For  bait  the 
author  suggests  the  use  of  fish,  rabbit,  or  a  decapitated  bird, 
and  if  the  fisher  is  to  be  lured  or  attracted  to  the  trap,  beaver 
decoy  mixed  with  fish  oil  and  a  little  oil  of  anise,  should  be 
smeared  in  vicinity  of  the  trap.  Some  trappers  place  this  prepar- 
ation on  the  sole  of  their  shoes  or  boots  and  walk  to  the  traps, 
while  others  place  the  decoy  in  a  buckskin  bag  which  contains 
some  cotton,  the  latter  absorbs  the  decoy,  and  as  the  bag  is  drawn 
over  the  earth,  the  smell  protrudes  through  the  small  openings 
which  have  been  previously  made  in  the  bag.  The  bag  should 
be  drawn  towards  the  trap,  not  away  from  the  trap.  The 
trapper  will  sometimes  find  a  trap  sprung  by  a  fox,  mink,  or  a 
marten,  and  in  some  instances  by  a  wolverene,  but  the  latter  are 
usually  caught  by  following  a  line  of  traps  and  while  in  the 
act  of  devouring  a  previous  victim.    The  mink  trap  will  hardly 


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171 


hold  fisher  or  wolverene,  unless  the  trap  is  attached  to  a  strong 
spring  pole,  and  then  it  is  doubtful,  as  the  weight  of  the  animal 
will  cause  its  leg  to  slide  through  the  jaws  of  the  trap.  Dead- 
fall traps  are  very  practical  and  are  continually  used  by  hundreds 
of  trappers,  especially  by  Canadian  Indians  and  half-breeds.  Both 
snares  and  deadfalls  should  be  set  in  places  where  the  animal 
frequents.  The  same  bait  and  decoy  used  with  steel  traps  can  be 
advantageously  applied  to  snares,  deadfalls  and  other  home- 
made traps.  It  is  necessary  that  the  steel  traps  be  buried  in  the 
usual  manner;  spring  poles  or  other  appliances  should  be  used, 
in  preference  to  drag  or  clog,  yet  some  trappers  prefer  a  clog  or 
drag  fastened  to  a  long  chain  or  to  a  stationary  object.  Sliding 
poles  can  be  adapted  in  some  places,  while  sunken  barrels  or  box 
traps  can  be  used  to  advantage  in  certain  localities.  The  latter 
must  be  strongly  built,  otherwise  the  fisher  will  escape  unless  so 
arranged  that  if  captured  he  will  drown  in  short  order. 

TRAPPING  THE  WOLVERENE. 

This  great  michievous  animal  inhabits  timber  sections  and 
plays  havoc  with  lines  of  traps  set  for  mink  and  marten.  They 
are  troublesome  to  the  hunter,  otherwise,  by  devouring  pro- 
visions, stealing  clothing,  cooking  utensils,  etc.,  from  the  trapper's 
cabin.  They  can  be  captured  in  steel  traps,  snares,  deadfalls,  etc. 
but  owing  to  their  cuteness,  great  strength,  peculiar  habits  and 
training,  they  will  seldom  fall  a  victim. 

A  Canadian  half-breed  trapper  relates  that  after  a  single 
wolverene  had  destroyed  hundreds  of  dollars  worth  of  his  furs, 
following  and  releasing  traps  for  a  period  of  three  months  and 
practically  the  entire  season,  he  was  fortunate  enough  to  capture 
him.  He  set  a  No.  steel  trap  in  the  usual  way  for  mink  and 
marten,  and  surrounding  this  trap  he  placed  three  No.  3  steel 
traps  properly  arranged  with  spring  poles.  The  wolverene  visited 
the  scene  many  times,  and  on  two  occasions  the  trapper  found 
signs  of  his  usual  depredations,  but  the  third  or  fourth  time  the 
wolverene  sprung  one  of  the  traps  and  was  lifted  high  from  the 
ground. 

The  wolverene  is  detested  by  professional  trappers,  who  spend 
weeks  following  this  horrid  creature  at  the  expense  of  other 
work. 

An  aged  hunter  and  trapper,  upon  his  return  from  the  civil 
war  in  1865,  settled  in  the  upper  part  of  Michigan,  where  he 
continued  his  vocation.  On  one  occasion  he  relates  that  he  cap- 
tured this  marauder  after  a  fruitless  effort  of  three  weeks'  con- 
tinued watching,  and  at  one  time  this  wolverene  led  Mr.  Graham 
for  thirty  miles,  who,  upon  return  to  the  cabin  in  three  days, 


172 


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found  fresh  tracks  of  the  animal,  and  upon  setting  six  nests, 
(three  steel  traps  to  each  nest),  placed  at  intervals,  baiting  with 
pieces  of  beaver,  otter,  muskrats,  parts  of  fur  scented  with  casto- 
reum,  finally  captured  a  large  wolverene. 

He  invariably  used  deadfalls  and  No.  3  steel  traps  attached 
to  spring  poles,  and  ''Of  all  voracious  animals,"  says  Mr.  Gra- 
ham, ''the  wolverene  is  the  hardest  to  trap,  but  by  running  him 
down  and  skillfully  manipulating  the  traps  for  his  reception,  by 
no  means  become  discouraged,  and  you  will  triumph  and  bring 
the  evil-doer  to  the  end  of  his  rope.'' 

Poison  can  be  successfully  applied  if  placed  within  a  carcass 
of  a  marten,  mink,  bird  or  muskrat;  also  small  pieces  strewn 
about. 

The  following  is  borrowed  from  Mr.  Lockhart:  "At  Peel's 
River,  on  one  occasion,  a  very  old  wolverene  discovered  my 
marten  road,  on  which  I  had  nearly  a  hundred  and  fifty  traps.  I 
was  in  the  habit  of  visiting  the  line  about  once  a  fortnight;  but 
the  beast  fell  into  the  way  of  coming  oftener  than  I  did,  to  my 
great  annoyance  and  vexation.  I  determined  to  put  a  stop  to 
his  thieving  and  his  life  together,  cost  what  it  might.  So  I  made 
six  strong  traps  at  as  many  different  points,  and  also  set  three 
steel  traps.  For  three  weeks  I  tried  my  best  to  catch  the  beast, 
without  success ;  and  my  worst  enemy  would  allow  that  I  am  no 
green  hand  in  these  matters.  The  animal  carefully  avoided  the 
traps  set  for  his  own  benefit,  and  seemed  to  be  taking  more  delight 
than  ever  in  demolishing  my  marten  traps  and  eating  the  martens, 
scattering  the  poles  in  every  direction,  and  caching  what  baits 
or  martens  he  did  not  devour  on  the  spot.  As  we  had  no  poison 
in  those  days,  I  next  set  a  gun  on  the  bank  of  a  little  lake.  The 
gun  was  concealed  in  some  low  bushes,  but  the  bait  was  so  placed 
that  the  wolverene  must  see  it  on  his  way  up  the  bank.  I  block- 
aded my  path  to  the  gun  with  a  small  pine  tree  which  completely 
hid  it.  On  my  first  visit  afterward  I  found  that  the  beast  had 
gone  up  to  the  bait  and  smelled  it,  but  had  left  it  untouched.  He 
had  next  pulled  up  the  pine  tree  that  blocked  the  path  and  gone 
around  the  gun  and  cut  the  line  which  connected  the  bait  with  the 
trigger,  just  behind  the  muzzle. 

Then  he  had  gone  back  and  pulled  the  bait  away  and  carried 
it  out  on  the  lake,  where  he  laid  down  and  devoured  it  at  his 
leisure.  There  I  found  my  string.  I  could  scarcely  believe  that 
all  this  had  been  done  designedly,  for  it  seemed  that  faculties 
fully  on  a  par  with  human  reason  would  be  required  for  such  an 
exploit,  if  done  intentionally.  I  therefore  rearranged  things, 
tying  the  string  where  it  had  been  bitten.  But  the  result  was 
exactly  the  same  for  three  successive  occasions,  as  I  could  plainly 


Andersch  Bros'  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide,  173 


see  by  the  footprints ;  and  what  is  most  singular  of  all,  each  time 
the  brute  was  careful  to  cut  the  line  a  little  back  of  where  it  had 
been  tied  before,  as  if  actually  reasoning  with  himself  that  even 
the  knots  might  be  some  new  device  of  mine,  and  therefore  a 
source  of  hidden  danger  he  would  prudently  avoid.  I  came  to 
the  conclusion  that  that  wolverene  ought  to  live,  as  he  must  be 
something  at  least  human,  if  not  worse.  I  gave  it  up  and  aband- 
oned the  road  for  a  period. 

''On  another  occasion  a  wolverene  amused  himself,  much  as 
usual,  by  tracking  my  line  from  one  end  to  the  other  and  demol- 
ishing my  traps  as  fast  as  I  could  set  them.  I  put  a  large  steel 
trap  in  the  middle  of  a  path  that  branched  ofif  among  some 
willows,  spreading  no  bait,  but  risking  the  chance  that  the  animal 
would  'put  his  foot  in  it'  on  his  way  to  break  a  trap  at  the  end 
of  the  path.  On  my  next  visit  I  found  that  the  trap  was  gone, 
but  I  noticed  the  blood  and  entrails  of  a  hare  that  had  evidently 
been  caught  in  the  trap  and  devoured  by  the  wolverene  on  the 
spot.  Examining  his  footprints  I  was  satisfied  that  he  had  not 
been  caught,  and  I  took  up  his  trail.  Proceeding  about  a  mile 
through  the  woods  I  came  to  a  small  lake,  on  the  banks  of  which 
I  recognized  traces  of  the  trap,  which  the  beast  had  laid  down 
in  order  to  go  a  few  steps  to  one  side  to  make  water  on  a  stump. 
He  had  then  returned  and  picked  up  the  trap,  which  he  had 
carried  across  the  lake,  with  many  a  twist  and  turn  on  the  hard 
crust  of  snow  to  mislead  his  expected  pursuer,  and  then  again 
entered  the  woods.  I  followed  for  about  half  a  mile  farthe^^ 
and  then  came  to  a  large  hole  dug  in  the  snow.  This  place, 
however,  seemed  not  to  have  suited  him,  for  there  was  nothing 
there.  A  few  yards  farther  on,  however,  I  found  a  neatly  built 
mound  of  snow  on  which  the  animal  had  made  water  and  left 
his  dirt;  this  I  knew  was  his  cache.  Using  one  of  my  snowshoes 
for  a  spade,  I  dug  into  the  hillock  and  down  to  the  ground, 
the  snow  being  about  four  feet  deep ;  and  there  I  found  my  trap, 
with  the  toes  of  a  rabbit  still  in  the  jaws.  Could  it  have  been 
the  animal's  instinctive  impulse  to  hide  prey  that  made  him  carry 
my  trap  so  far  merely  for  the  morsel  of  meat  still  held  in  it? 
Or  did  his  cunning  nature  prompt  him  to  hide  the  trap  for  fear 
that  on  some  future  unlucky  occasion  he  might  put  his  own  toes 
in  it  and  share  the  rabbit's  fate?" 

The  skin  should  be  cased  similar  to  mink,  marten  and  fisher. 
Retain  its  size  and  do  not  over-stretch.  If  skins  are  to  be 
stretched  flat  or  open,  cut  open  upon  the  belly  in  process  of  skin- 
ning and  stretch  in  a  frame  or  upon  some  smooth,  flat  surface  and 
dry  in  a  shady  place  away  from  the  sun  and  artificial  heat.  Fasten 
skin  in  frame  with  withes  or  laces.   All  fat  must  be  removed. 


Gray  Fox  Skin  Bed  Fox  Skin  Gray  Fox  Skin 

Kitt  Fox  Skin  Swift  Fox  Skin 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


175 


TRAPPING  THE  FOX. 

This  animal,  like  the  wolf,  is  hard  to  capture  or  trap.  It 
belongs  to  the  dog  or  wolf  family,  and  is  carnivorous  in  its  habits. 
The  different  variations  number  as  high  as  twenty-one,  but  in 
this  country  eight  species  are  commonly  known  to  the  hunter 
and  general  public,  though  naturalists  claim  as  many  as  thirteen 
varieties  on  the  western  continent.  As  they  resemble  each  other 
closely  in  appearance,  habits,  kind  of  food,  and  all  possess  un- 
usually fine  sense  of  smell,  sight,  hearing,  and  are  rapid  in  loco- 
motion, we  shall  not  endeavor  to  place  the  different  species  when 
it  comes  to  capturing  the  animal  for  the.  pelt  or  to  kill  for  other 
reasons,  under  various  headings,  but  under  one  common  and 
generally  applicable  rule. 

The  fox  can  be  caught  in  various  ways,  and  with  many  dif- 
ferent traps  and  ingenious  appliances,  common  to  the  hunter  and 
trapper,  especially  of  the  frontier  days. 

Steel  traps  are  now  commonly  used ;  the  No.  2  trap  is  prefer- 
able and  sufficiently  strong  to  hold  any  full-grown  animal,  though 
in  localities  where  such  game  as  lynx,  wild  cat  and  wolf  exist, 
larger  traps  should  be  set.  It  is  advisable  in  all  cases,  to  smear 
the  trap  and  chain  with  blood,  beeswax,  lard,  etc.,  to  prevent  the 
smell  of  iron  from  alarming  the  animals.  The  chain  should  be 
attached  to  a  clog  weighing  about  eight  to  ten  pounds,  and  be 
buried  the  usual  depth.  Loose  bits  of  earth,  or  what  is  still  better, 
wood  ashes,  should  be  strewn  over  the  excavated  portion  under 
which  the  traps  are  buried.  The  smell  of  the  ashes,  especially  if 
wet,  often  is  sufficiently  strong  to  overcome  the  smell  of  iron. 

Traps  should  be  nested  by  having  three  to  five  traps  to  one 
bait.  It  is  advisable  to  set  the  traps  on  an  elevation;  some  knoll 
or  high  ground  will  answer  admirably. 

Birds,  skinned  muskrats,  or  other  small,  freshly  skinned  or 
bleeding  animals,  will  answer  for  bait;  the  latter  should  be 
fastened  so  as  to  detain  the  fox,  and  should  he  endeavor  to  pull  at 
the  bait  or  walk  around  it,  the  chances  of  his  springing  a  trap  is 
greatly  increased.  Occasionally  two  traps  are  sprung  in  his  fran- 
tic endeavors  to  free  himself.  It  is  advisable  to  set  a  trap  slightly 
in  or  just  before  a  hole  or  excavation  to  or  from  which  tracks  lead ; 
should  the  animal  be  absent,  most  likely  he  will  return  the  follow- 
ing night.  Bury  the  trap  and  clog  in  the  usual  manner,  and  smear 
a  little  of  the  musk  or  matrix  from  the  female  fox  above  or  beyond 
the  trap,  but  not  on  the  trap,  chain  or  clog. 

An  experienced  trapper  informed  me  that  he  was  very  suc- 
cessful in  catching  foxes  by  tying  a  live  bird  or  mouse  in  the 
center  of  a  nest  of  four  No.  3  traps.    The  mice  were  caught  in 


RED  FOX  AND  WILD  CAT  SKINS 


Andersch  Bros.'  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


177 


small  wire  traps,  and  then  a  light  brass  or  aluminum  chain  was 
tied  with  linen  thread  to  one  of  their  feet,  likewise  to  the  bird's, 
one  or  both  fastened  in  center  of  nested  traps  and  left  to  the  mercy 
of  the  game.  Sufficient  nourishment  was  left  with  the  mouse  or 
bird,  to  prevent  starvation.  It  is  wise  to  try  this  plan,  but  in  our 
judgment,  a  chicken  or  a  duck  would  be  more  acceptable,  espe- 
cially, if  the  fox  has  frequented  the  roost,  and  the  farmer  or 
trapper  desires  to  risk  another  fowl  in  order  for  the  thief  to 
become  the  victim. 

Wool,  moss,  leaves,  deer  hair,  cotton  and  the  like,  should 
be  placed  beneath  the  pan  and  around  the  jaws.  A  horse's  tail 
or  piece  of  sheep  pelt  should  be  used  to  brush  away  loose  bits 
of  earth  from  the  excavation,  also  in  visiting  traps,  especially 
when  the  trap  was  accidentally  sprung,  it  is  advisable  to  attach 
a  piece  of  sheep  skin  or  other  fur  to  the  boots  and  approach  the 
traps  in  this  manner.  In  handling  traps  or  working  about  them, 
and  in  the  act  of  setting,  always  wear  gloves;  some  trappers 
smear  their  gloves  with  blood  or  decoy. 

If  meat  be  placed  about  the  traps  in  small  chunks,  it  is  pre- 
ferable that  same  is  fried.  Honey  bait  about  the  trap  answers 
well,  and  is  sometimes  more  successful  than  meat  bait.  Some 
trappers  drag  a  piece  of  fresh  meat  or  poultry  about  the  trap 
with  the  intention  of  leading  game  to  it.  The  bait  is  often 
placed  on  a  stick  about  two  feet  above  the  traps.  A  European 
Jager  (licensed  hunter)  placed  a  steel  trap  near  to  a  flowing 
spring  in  about  two  inches  of  water,  the  surroundings  were  cleared 
of  moss,  stones,  etc.,  and  the  bait  arranged  so  that  the  fox 
would  naturally  step  with  his  front  feet  on  the  pan,  which  was 
covered  with  moss,  to  keep  from  wetting  his  feet,  thus  spring- 
ing the  trap  and  becoming  the  victim. 

A  spring  pole  can  be  used  advantageously,  especially  if  the 
traps  cannot  be  visited  every  twenty-four  hours.  Some  of  the 
northwestern  farmers  are  unusually  lucky  in  ridding  their  ranch 
or  farm  of  wolves  and  foxes,  also  making  a  little  spending 
money  during  the  dull  winter  months,  by  setting  traps  and 
capturing  these  animals.  The  traps  are  set  in  various  places, 
and  both  steel  and  deadfalls  are  used.  The  former  is  buried 
in  the  usual  manner,  and  instead  of  being  covered  with  earth, 
leaves  and  the  like,  the  excavations  are  covered  with  manure  taken 
from  hen  coop,  which  is  strewn  about,  while  the  musk  of  the 
female  fox,  wolf  or  dog,  taken  during  the  mating  season,  is 
smeared  about  the  deadfall  trap. 

Many  farmers  and  trappers  use  the  deadfall  very  advan- 
tageously while  others  prefer  to  snare  such  game  in  the  old 


Txx-wV^S^T  ^^O^X  ^^^^^  * 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  179 


fashion.  If  snares  are  to  be  used  it  is  advisable  to  attach  same  to 
spring  poles. 

Whenever  opportunity  presents  the  fox  can  be  killed  with 
a  rifle,  as  the  pelt  is  not  damaged  extensively,  and  seldom  grades 
as  damaged  with  the  fur  dealer. 

This  animal  can  also  be  poisoned  with  strychnine,  but  as  a  rule 
shuns  such  bait,  unless  exceedingly  hungry.  The  author  has 
known  poisoned  bait  to  lie  for  twenty  to  thirty  days  undis- 
turbed, although  the  fox  has  frequented  and  even  watered  in  the 
vicinity  without  disturbing  same,  but  shortly  thereafter  a  heavy 
snow  storm  set  in,  and  as  food  was  scarce,  the  fox  scratched 
for  the  bait,  which  he  easily  located,  ate  same,  and  his  corpse 
was  found  within  twenty-five  yards.  The  poison  should  be  mixed 
with  a  little  honey  or  lard  and  a  dose  inserted  in  a  piece  of  meat ; 
five  to  ten  such  pieces  should  be  strewn  about.  If  you  have 
reason  to  believe  that  one  of  these  pieces  was  devoured,  look 
carefully  in  the  vicinity  and  you  are  sure  to  find  the  corpse. 

TRAPPING  THE  WOLF. 

This  animal  is  difficult  to  capture,  being  swift,  cute  and  out- 
wits humanity  in  chase.  In  most  cases  they  are  captured  by 
the  use  of  steel  traps,  snares,  rifle,  poison,  and  with  other  do- 
mestic paraphernalia.  The  same  tactics  used  in  hunting  foxes 
can  be  applied  to  wolves;  but  one  must  reason  and  allow  for 
the  great  strength,  cuteness  and  habits  .  For  trapping ,  wolves 
No.  4  steel  traps  are  recommended,  which  should  be  set  in 
conspicuous  places,  usually  in  cattle  runs,  cattle  trails,  water- 
ing places,  near  corrals  or  wagon  roads,  foot  paths,  also  in 
woods,  brushes,  about  dead  animals,  etc.  It  largely  depends  upon 
the  kind  of  wolf  and  the  locality,  also  time  of  the  year. 

Some  set  the  traps  right  in  the  cattle  trails,  trusting  to  the 
wolf  to  walk  in  them,  others  between  two  trees  or  dead  log  and 
tree,  also  in  path  between  and  under  bushes.  The  use  of  a 
grab  hook  (iron  4-prong  hook)  attached  to  a  fifteen  to  thirty 
pound  log  (see  cut)  should  be  invariably  attached  to  the  steel  trap. 
The  former  will  make  a  trail  that  can  easily  be  followed  by  the 
trapper  to  the  location  of  the  captured  wolf,  who  generally  drags 
the  clog  fifty  to  two  hundred  yards,  sometimes  a  mile  away.  The 
hook  will  detain  the  wolf  and  increase  the  hardship  of  his  travel 
and  often,  when  the  animal  roams  frantically  about,  will  be 
detained  by  the  hook  becoming  caught  in  bushes  or  the  ground. 
Never  attach  two  traps  to  one  clog,  neither  is  it  advisable  to 
attach  the  chain  to  a  stationary  object,  as  the  victim  is  likely 
to  tear  loose,  break,  chew  or  twist  his  leg  out  of  the  trap. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  181 


In  setting  steel  traps,  on  cattle  trails  the  traps  should  be  set 
three  to  six  inches  apart,  and  the  clog  as  well  as  the  traps 
buried.  One  should  avoid  the  deeply  worn  spots  and  choose  a 
place  near  weeds  or  bushes.  Spread  a  blanket  or  large  open  wool 
sack  near  place  of  excavation  on  which  throw  all  loose  dirt,  also 
stand  on  same  while  working  as  much  as  possible.  When  the 
holes  are  ready,  bury  clogs,  chains  and  traps  and  carefully  cover 
with  dirt  or  sod.  One  of  the  chief  objects  to  be  attained  is  to  see 
that  the  pan  does  not  rest  upon  the  earth;  if  any  danger  ofl 
filling  in  under  pan,  place  a  quantity  of  loose  cotton  under- 
neath. To  obtain  good  and  prompt  results,  arrange  the  sur- 
roundings to  the  former  natural  condition.  One  should  avoid 
artificial  arrangements  of  appearance  and  remove  all  loose  soil. 

The  best  arrangements  or  order  of  setting  four  traps  on  a 
cattle  trail  is  to  bury  two  clogs  on  each  side  and  only  excavate 
a  few  inches  deep  where  the  trap  is  to  be  set,  which  should  be 
so  arranged  that  the  inner  jaw  of  the  trap  is  about  one  inch 
away  from  centre  of  path.    (See  illustration.) 

Traps  should  not  be  handled  with  bare  hands,  but  with  gloves 
smeared  with  fresh  blood  or  smoked;  the  former  is  preferable. 
The  traps  themselves  should  be  held  over  smoke  or  dipped  in 
fresh  blood.  Tie  a  piece  of  sheep  pelt  or  other  kind  of  furred 
skin  on  bottom  of  shoes  when  visiting  traps  or  setting  them. 
Sprinkle  blood  about  the  places  where  traps  are  set,  and  it  is 
also  advisable  to  scatter  bits  of  meat  in  vicinity  thereof.  Some 
smear  traps  with  decoy  oils,  others  claim  the  decoy  and  oil  is  a 
detriment  to  success.  The  author  suggests,  in  this  style  of 
setting,  not  to  use  any  artificial  oils,  whatever,  but  if  any  decoy 
is  used  preference  should  be  given  to  the  fluid  from  the  female 
wolf  or  dog  taken  during  mating  season,  which  should  be 
smeared  on  bushes  or  on  a  stick  placed  about  the  traps,  if 
consistent,  one  or  two  feet  above  the  trap.  The  latter  is  sure  to 
be  a  drawing  card>  and  wolves  will  be  attracted  from  long  dis- 
tances. 

Traps  set  about  a  dead  carcass  is  a  splendid  idea,  but  one 
should  note  that  wolves  will  not  eat  old  or  diseased  meat,  unless 
possessed  with  extreme  hunger.  However  it  is  seldom  indeed 
when  this  animal  does  not  possess  a  good  appetite,  therefore,  part 
of  the  dead  carcass  is  consumed  or  carried  away. 

When  a  wolf  lacks  appetite  and  crosses  scent  of  food,  he 
naturally  follows  it  up  until  the  article  or  body  is  reached. 
Should  the  article  be  small  he  will  grab,  shake  and  carry  it  away 
to  his  hiding  place  or  bury  same;  if  large  or  ill-suited,  he  will 
turn  and  water  upon  it. 

It  is  common  for  wolf  hunters  to  have  seventy-five  to  one 


182 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


hundred  twenty-five  traps  scattered,  and  probably  in  as  high  as 
fifty  settings,  but  as  the  traps  should  be  visited  at  least  once  a 
day,  and  naturally  so  many  traps  or  settings  cover  a  large  dis- 
trict, it  will  be  noted  that  little  time  will  be  left  to  skin  the 
victims  and  handle  the  pelt,  therefore  the  latter  should  be  left 
for  others  who  can  care  for  the  skin  properly  as  well  as 
promptly. 

In  visiting  traps  set  for  wolves,  one  should  ride  horseback 
or  in  a  wagon  dragging  a  freshly  killed  animal  behind,  which 
should  be  attached  to  a  rope,  and  the  latter  to  the  horn  of  a 
saddle  or  axle. 

A  good  place  to  set  traps  is  (if  one  is  fortunate  to  find  a 
place)  where  wolves  recently  devoured  some  animal  and  especially 
if  parts  thereof  remain.  Mr.  Wolf  is  sure  to  come  again. 
Western  ranchers  attach  the  chain  of  the  trap  to  a  beef  head 
which  answers  for  bait  as  well  as  a  clog. 

A  certain  western  rancher  set  his  traps  in  two  rows,  probably 
four  to  six  feet  apart,  carefully  burying  the  clogs  and  traps,  and 
in  three  or  four  days  thereafter  would  ride  horseback  dragging 
a  freshly  skinned  and  bleeding  sheep  or  calf  for  miles  and  ride 
between  the  traps  and  drop  the  carcass  there.  Sufficient  time 
had  elapsed  for  the  eradication  of  all  human  scent  from  the 
time  traps  were  set  to  the  time  the  bait  was  dropped.  This 
latter  method  is  a  secret,  and  well  worth  the  time  and  expense, 
as  one  is  likely  to  rid  the  ranch  of  these  howling  devastators. 
The  rancher  sometimes  got  a  wolf  in  each  trap  every  night,  and 
the  traps  were  set  in  the  same  position  for  some  weeks  and  less 
costly  bait  or  none  thereafter  was  used. 

Another  method  to  catch  wolves  or  other  animals,  or  even 
bears  is  to  dig  a  hole  six  to  ten  feet  square  and  five  to  six  feet 
deep  and  set  traps  along  the  outside  of  the  hole  about  twelve  to 
fifteen  inches  from  the  edge.  The  chains  can  either  be  secured  to 
some  stake  driven  within  the  pitfall  or  attached  to  some  weight 
suspended  upon  temporary  brackets.  By  the  latter  method,  the  vic- 
tim is  usually  caught  by  one  of  the  fore  feet  and  in  its  endeavor  to 
free  itself,  or  to  decamp,  the  weight  to  which  the  chain  is  attached 
and  which  hangs  suspended  within  the  pitfall,  descends  and  pulls 
the  animal  within  the  pit ;  thus  making  him  a  chained  prisoner. 

As  far  as  bait  is  concerned,  a  bleating  calf  or  a  squealing  pig 
lowered  in  the  pit  is  probably  the  best.  If  the  former  are  unob- 
tainable, some  dead  animal  dragged  behind  a  wagon,  or  attached 
by  means  of  a  rope,  to  the  horn  of  a  saddle,  and,  thrown  into  the 
pit,  makes  an  excellent  bait.  The  wolf  or  the  fox  will  readily 
pick  up  the  scent,  follow  it  to  the  pit,  and  become  a  victim.  The 
idea  is  to  bring  the  wolf  to  the  pit  and  then  in  smelling  around 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  183 


in  close  proximity  to  the  pit,  should  spring  one  of  the  concealed 
steel  traps  and  be  drawn  or  thrown  within  the  hole.  A  dead  dog 
(preferably  female)  also  the  carcass  of  a  wolf  or  fox,  if  dragged 
in  various  directions  to  this  pit,  will  surely  be  followed  should 
any  of  the  animals  of  the  dog  family  cross  the  trail. 

The  noise  of  the  captured  wolf  and  the  bait  therein  will 
attract  other  wolves  who  come  to  ascertain  the  trouble,  and  if 
they  are  curious  or  close  observers,  they  naturally  will  attempt 
to  get  very  close  to  the  excavation  and  be  caught.  If  this  method 
is  adopted  the  traps  should  be  set  about  two  feet  apart  and  care- 
fully concealed.    (See  illustration) 

There  are  a  great  many  other  ways  of  setting  steel  traps 
but  the  foregoing  will  give  anyone  with  fair  intelligence,  and 
those  who  possess  the  genuine  trapper's  sagacity,  to  compre- 
hend the  art  of  setting  these  traps  for  wolves  at  various  places. 
It  should  be  observed  that  the  surroundings  be  the  least  pos- 
sible disturbed,  and  all  the  loose  earth  removed.  A  blanket  or  open 
wool  sack  should  be  used,  on  which  loose  earth  is  to  be  thrown, 
and  whatever  is  not  used  must  be  carried  away  for  some  distance. 

Snares  can  be  advantageously  used  in  brush  or  timber 
country,  especially  for  gray  wolves.  These  snares  should  be 
strong  and  so  arranged  that  the  animals  are  caught  by  the 
neck,  as,  if  caught  by  the  foot,  Mr.  Wolf  may  get  away,  not- 
withstanding the  use  of  a  spring  pole.  The  spring  pole  must 
lift  the  animal  entirely  off  the  ground,  otherwise  the  victim  will 
escape.  It  is  the  author's  opinion,  that  snares  can  be  success- 
fully adopted  when  wolves  are  known  to  enter  corrals  through 
openings,  and  in  such  cases  the  snares  should  be  conveniently 
placed  above  the  same  path  that  the  wolf  is  accustomed  to  fre- 
quent. 

An  Iowa  farmer  informed  the  author  that  he  used  snares 
with  great  success.  Seemingly  he  had  a  controversy  with  his 
neighbor,  and  claimed  that  his  dogs  were  in  the  habit  of  digging 
holes  under  the  fence,  get  into  the  enclosure,  bite  and  run  the 
sheep  for  hours,  and  of  course,  as  a  natural  result,  some  of 
them  died  and  others  were  more  or  less  chewed  up.  A  dispute 
arose  and  he  told  the  neighbor  that  he  would  ascertain  the 
trespasser  in  a  short  time,  and  if  the  dogs  were  caught  in  the 
enclosure  or  thereabouts  he  would  hold  their  owner  responsible 
for  all  the  damage  done  heretofore,  and,  in  case  some  other 
dogs  or  wolves  were  in  the  habit  of  getting  into  the  enclosure, 
he  would  grant  his  neighbor  a  certain  right  of  way  over  a  strip 
of  land,  which  the  latter  desired,  and  highly  prized.  This  was 
agreed  upon  between  the  two  farmers.  The  informant  tore  or 
knocked  two  boards  from  the  fence  and  braided  four  small  fish 


winter  Furred 


BLACK  WOLF  RTTG 


Montana 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Ouide.  185 


lines  into  one  good  strong  line  and  arranged  same  into  a  snare, 
placed  the  latter  at  the  opening  made  by  the  boards  that  he 
previously  knocked  off.  The  end  of  the  snare  was  attached  to 
a  rope  and  the  latter  to  a  cattle  hoist,  which  was  so  arranged 
that  if  a  certain  stick  was  pulled  out  the  wheel  would  turn  and 
hoist  the  victim  high  in  the  air.  The  power  was  obtained  by 
having  another  rope  wound  around  the  centre  shaft  in  opposite 
direction,  on  which  was  tied  a  sack  of  stones  weighing  approx- 
imately one  hundred  pounds.  The  sack  was  raised  twelve  feet 
in  the  air  and  the  hoist  wheel  was  fastened  in  such  a  way 
that  when  a  stick  was  removed  the  wheel  would  turn  by  the 
descending  weight.  An  additional  line  from  the  snare  to  the 
stick  was  placed,  thus  if  the  animal  was  caught  the  stick  would 
be  pulled  out  and  the  weight  descend  while  the  victim  would 
be  rapidly  hoisted  into  the  air. 

The  first  night  nothing  came,  at  least,  the  snare  was  unmol- 
ested ;  but  the  second  night  Mr.  Wolf  came  and  was  strangled  to 
death;  on  the  third  night  the  neighbor's  dog  was  caught  in  the 
same  manner,  to  the  admiration  of  both  the  farmer  and  tHe 
owner  of  the  dog.  They  jointly  agreed  that  neither  was  to  receive 
any  compensation.  This  method  is  certainly  a  very  good  one, 
both  the  wolf  and  the  dog  can  be  made  to  stretch  hemp ;  thus 
farmers  can  get  rid  of  sheep-killing  dogs  as  well  as  the  devastating 
wolf. 

The  rifle  should  not  fail  to  achieve  credit  and  assist  the 
eradication  of  these  animals  as  much  as  possible,  but  it  is  to  be 
regretted  that  opportunity  is  seldom  presented  for  an  average 
hunter  to  obtain  a  satisfactory  aim ;  hence,  killing  wolves  by 
the  use  of  the  rifle,  much  less  the  shot  gun,  is  not  extensive. 
We  urge  hunters  to  kill  wolves  in  or  out  of  season,  and  to  loot 
the  homes  of  the  young  whenever  possible. 

The  bounty  question  is  too  often  taken  for  deliberation,  and 
the  sum  too  often  drawn  by  men  who  should  feel  ashamed  to 
ask  the  county  or  state  to  pay  them  for  something  that  they 
should  feel  it's  their  duty  to  perform.  The  true  hunter  as  well 
as  the  farmer  should  cease  scrambling  about  bounty;  the  former 
will  be  rewarded  by  increase  of  other  game,  and  the  latter  from 
loss  of  stock.  All  should  unite  and  effect  as  near  as  possible  the 
capture  and  eradication  of  the  timber,  brush  and  prairie  wolf. 

Wolves  can  be  lured  to  death  by  the  legitimate  and  proper 
use  of  poison,  but  to  be  successful  one  should  distribute  the 
poison  at  such  a  time  when  food  is  scarce  and  the  animal  roams 
frantically  around  in  search  of  food  to  satisfy  its  hunger.  During 
the  winter  time  when  the  snow  is  deep  the  wolf  will  overcome  the 
usual  fondness  for  fresh  and  wholesome  meat,  and  will  devour 


186 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


suspicious  looking  bits  of  meat  in  which  poison  has  been  placed, 
and  naturally  the  corpse  will  be  found  in  close  vicinity. 

Strychnine  mixed  with  lard  and  inserted  in  small  pieces  of 
meat  often  tempts  the  animal  and,  to  the  surprise  of  the  farmer 
as  well  as  to  the  wolf,  the  poison  will  be  prompt  in  action,  and 
the  victim  found  with  upturned  toes. 

Another  method  is  to  mix  strychnine  with  fresh  blood  and 
dissolved  lard.  Run  this  mixture  into  little  holes  previously  made 
in  the  frozen  earth.  Others  make  balls  of  this  mixture  which 
are  thrown  in  conspicuous  places.  As  a  rule  wolves  will  not 
eat  or  chew  poisoned  meat ;  hence,  small  pieces  are  preferred, 
which  the  animal  can  swallow.  Extreme  hunger,  however,  on 
the  part  of  the  wolves,  causes  them  to  tackle  a  poisoned  carcass, 
but  seemingly,  are  extremely  cautious,  nevertheless  some  parts 
are  devoured.  To  the  detriment  of  the  trapper  or  hunter,  often 
insufficient  poison  is  consumed  by  the  wolf,  and  occasionally, 
the  poison  is  improoerly  injected,  or  too  old. 

Don't  give  up  hunting  fo/  the  dead  wolves  should  you  find 
that  some  of  the  pieces  of  bait  were  consumed,  neither  feel 
downhearted  if  you  find  that  the  bait  remains  undisturbed  for 
two  or  three  weeks.  The  author  has  known  baits  to  lie  undis- 
turbed for  a  month  regardless  of  the  fact  that  wolf  tracks  about 
the  bait  were  numerous.  Generally  after  a  severe  storm  or  spell 
of  cold  weather,  or  a  blizzard  with  a  large  quantity  of  snow, 
wolves  go  in  search  of  food  and  look  up  the  places  where  they 
have  buried  same  heretofore,  and  consume  the  bait  that  they 
previously  neglected  to  devour.  At  such  times  the  wolves  will 
devour  the  bait  and  naturally  suffer  tiie  penalty  of  death.  The 
poison  acts  promptly  and  generally  within  ten  minutes.  The 
author  has  seen  a  wolf  snatch  the  bait  off  sticks  and  shortly 
thereafter,  much  to  his  detriment,  drag  and  twist  himself  in 
all  shapes,  suffering  great  agony  and  pain.  Sometimes  the  pain 
is  so  extensive  and  prompt  that  they  are  unable  to  run  away, 
other  times  the  dead  body  of  the  wolf  will  be  found  a  distance 
of  a  mile.  The  proper  place  to  put  such  bait  is  on  small  hills, 
which  this  animal,  as  well  as  the  fox,  frequent,  to  enable  them 
to  view  the  surroundings.  Therefore  bait  placed  on  some 
slight  hill  is  preferable.  In  a  prairie  country  it  is  an  easy  matter 
to  see  the  carcass  for  a  long  distance. 

Some  trappers  fasten  poisoned  bait  on  sticks  which  are  driven 
into  the  ground,  but  no  more  than  eight  or  less  than  four  baits 
should  be  used  at  one  place.  The  chief  trouble  and  failure  of 
success  is  the  use  of  old  or  insufficient  poison.  We  advise 
hunters,  trappers  or  farmers  to  procure  fresh  poison  from  rep- 
utable drug-stores. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


187 


It  takes  a  large  and  swift  dog  to  tussle  with  an  average  full- 
grown  prairie  wolf.  Often  more  than  one  dog  gets  torn  up 
before  a  wolf  is  finally  captured.  For  one  or  two  dogs  to 
attempt  to  capture  a  large  timber  wolf  is  almost  like  sending 
them  against  a  bear,  mountain  lion,  or  lynx.  If  a  dog  is  for- 
tunate to  come  up  to  a  large,  full-grown  timber  wolf,  and  a 
fight  ensues,  the  dog  will  soon  be  disengaged  and  only  when  two 
or  three  others  arrive  to  the  rescue  do  dogs  have  a  show  of 
killing  their  enemy,  and  even  then  it's  only  after  the  large  and 
heavy  dogs  arrive  that  the  wolf  finds  his  position  reversed. 

A  Russian  nobleman  relates  that  in  a  chase  four  to  six  dogs 
to  the  value  of  1,500  rubles,  became  engaged  with  a  large  native 
wolf.  The  latter  killed  three  and  were  it  not  for  the  timely 
arrival  of  the  horseman  the  wolf  would  have  escaped  almost 
unharmed. 

Wolves,  foxes,  as  well  as  mink,  skunk,  and  similar  animals  can 
be  caught  by  using  a  live  rooster  or  other  domestic  fowl,  rabbit, 
etc.,  and  by  placing  same  within  an  enclosure  made  of  wire 
netting.  Ordinarily  small  mesh  wire  netting  answers  the  purpose, 
and  if  set  for  large  animals  such  as  wolf,  the  strength  of  the 
netting  can  be  increased  by  inserting  thicker  wire  and  fastening 
it  above  as  well  as  below.  A  suitable  top  out  of  wire  netting 
must  also  be  made. 

Place  the  fowl  or  rabbit  within  the  enclosure,  provide  it  with 
sufficient  food  for  the  required  number  of  days  and  secure  the 
enclosure  to  the  ground.    Place  your  traps  about  the  enclosure, 

A  suitable  trap  for  above  named  animals  is  also  made  by  driv- 
ing stakes  in  a  snake-like  circle  and  placing  the  fowl  or  rabbit 
within  a  small  enclosure  at  center  part.  Adjust  a  proper  sized 
snare  at  the  opening  and  place  one  or  two  steel  traps  further 
therein.  The  wolf  or  fox  may  listen  to  the  peculiar  sound  of  the 
fowl  for  hours  without  attempting  to  go  near,  but  as  no  other  dis- 
turbances are  discernable  he  becomes  accustomed  to  the  surround- 
ings, and  will  finally  venture  for  the  prey,  only  to  become  nabbed, 
and  cover  them  in  the  usual  way  with  vegetation,  ashes,  etc. 

It  is  known  that  wolves  are  about  as  sly  as  the  fox,  and  if  not 
too  hungry  will  shy  at  most  anything  that  a  trapper  usually  pre- 
pares for  Mr.  Wolfs  reception.  It  is  related  by  an  experienced 
Massachusetts  trapper  and  traveler  that  if  one  is  fortunate  to  ob- 
tain from  a  female  dog  the  fluid  or  matrix  that  predominates  dur- 
ing the  period  of  coition,  and  can  use  this  liquid  before  it  becomes 
too  old  and  odorless,  he  is  sure  of  attracting  Mr.  Wolf  from  long 
distances  and  lead  him  to  the  traps,  deadfalls,  or  even  the  so- 
called  bait  set  gun. 

It  is  known  that  wolves  have  been  successfully  crossed  with 


188 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


dogs,  and  as  they  belong  to  the  same  family  it  is  only  natural 
that  the  male  wolf  would  be  attracted  by  the  liquid  from  the  fe- 
male dog  when  in  heat. 

Mr.  Snyder,  a  well  known  sportsman,  relates  that  he  captured 
two  young  wolves,  raised  them  up,  and  successfully  hunted  wild 
wolves  with  their  assistance.  He  was  fortunate  to  view  a  fierce 
fight  between  his  dog  Snapmouth  and  a  large  wild  brush  wolf. 
The  fight  was  much  fiercer  than  that  of  two  bull-dogs  or  of  any 
other  fight  that  he  had  seen,  but  as  his  wolf-dog  was  well  nour- 
ished and  protected  by  a  steel  collar  around  the  neck,  he  had  the 
advantage,  notwithstanding  his  enemy  outweighed  Snapmouth. 
After  a  fierce  fight  of  about  one-half  an  hour  or  so  the  wild  brute 
gave  way  and  Snapmouth  was  the  victor.  On  examination  the 
wolf  was  badly  torn  and  chewed  up,  especially  around  the  neck. 
The  same  writer  also  relates  that  he  crossed  and  bred  his  brindle 
dog  Nero  (half  bull  and  English  mastifif)  to  his  female  wolf  very 
successfully. 

Bed  traps,  that  is  a  number  of  traps  set  in  a  line  parallel  with 
the  path  or  trail  are  successfully  used  by  western  trappers  where 
the  coyote  or  wolf  abounds.  First  select  a  suitable  location  upon 
some  paths,  or  some  other  place  where  digging  is  easy.  Keep 
away  from  sod  as  much  as  possible. 

Take  four  No.  3,  No.  4  or  No.  4^2  traps,  first  having  prepared 
a  suitable  stake  and  place  said  stake  through  the  rings  of  the 
traps  and  drive  into  the  ground  so  that  the  upper  part  is  about 
two  inches  below  the  surface.  Now  dig  out  a  bed  for  each  trap 
about  two  feet  away  from  stake.  Place  dirt  on  canvas  or  sack. 
Set  so  that  each  trap  will  be  about  one-half  inch  below  the  level 
of  the  surrounding  ground  when  covered  with  earth.  Place 
enough  W90I  underneath  pan  to  keep  dirt  out,  also  to  prevent 
birds  or  other  small  animals  from  springing.  Leave  surroundings 
in  natural  condition. 

Wolves  can  be  killed  by  various  home-made  traps,  deadfalls, 
bear  traps  or  in  pitfalls  and  dugouts,  the  latter  covered  up  with 
fresh  grass,  etc.  If  interested,  see  description  of  these  traps  on 
other  pages  of  this  book. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


189 


HOW  TO  HUNT  AND  TRAP  THE  BEAR. 

The  bear  is  a  coward  and  will  not  molest  man,  even  if  dis- 
turbed, many  times  he  will  seek  to  escape  the  intruder  and  only 
in  rare  instances  will  he  turn  upon  man  without  due  provocation. 
To  throw  a  stone  at  him,  whether  the  stone  falls  short  or  not,  is 
sometimes  sufficient  for  Bruin  to  turn  about,  other  times  if  shot 
and  wounded  he  will  scamper  away,  perhaps  the  latter  occurs  sel- 
dom, as  he  is  known  to  go  for  the  hunter,  who  must  be  prepared 
for  his  reception. 

One  who  cannot  await  his  time  for  the  bear  to  approach  with- 
in twenty-five  yards  has  no  business  to  go  on  a  bear  hunt.  Only 
those  shots  that  hit  count;  perhaps  the  statement  made  by  Presi- 
dent Roosevelt  when  speaking  of  our  navy  "In  time  of  war  and 
in  battle  only  those  shots  that  hit,  and  hit  well,  count"  is  also  true 
when  on  a  bear  hunt. 

''One  of  the  best  hunters  that  I  ever  saw  was  scarcely  five 
feet  tall,  weighed  about  one  hundred  and  fifteen  pounds,  and  a 
tailor  by  trade,"  says  Mr.  Huntington,  an  experienced  hunter 
and  trapper,  formerly  a  western  guide,  and  at  one  time  connec- 
ted with  the  Alaska  Commercial  Company.  ''This  little  fellow 
with  one  or  two  guides  would  go  for  weeks  hunting  in  the  most 
lonesome  forests.  At  one  time  we  struck  a  family  of  grizzlies, 
and  do  you  suppose  he  would  give  me  a  shot  at  them?  No  sir ! 
We  followed  them  for  some  time  and  when  within  shot  he  bade 
me  stay  behind  while  he  went  forward.  When  within  thirty  to 
forty  yards  he  darted  behind  a  tree,  rested  his  rifle  on  the  side  of 
the  tree,  took  careful  aim,  and  fired.  The  first  shot  hit  this 
monster  bear  high  on  the  head  and  glanced  off ;  the  bear  turned  in 
a  circle,  like  if  demented,  stopped  for  a  moment,  and  made  for 
the  little  fellow  who  had  stepped  aside  the  tree.  The  bear  had 
gone  about  five  yards  when  this  tailor  took  aim  but  reserved  his 
fire  until  the  bear  raised  himself  on  his  hind  legs.  A  sharp 
report,  a  fall,  and  Mr.  Bruin  was  done  for.  I  rapidly  ran  to  the 
scene  and  was  requested  not  to  approach  the  dead  bear  until  our 
rifles  were  first  in  complete  order  and  allowing  sufficient  time  for 
the  bear  to  pass  through  his  death  struggles.  While  I  skinned 
the  monster  and  prepared  to  camp  for  the  night  in  the  vicinity, 
the  tailor  went  after  the  female  bear  but  not  being  able  to  locate 
her  returned  to  camp.  The  next  morning,  much  to  our  surprise 
we  corralled  the  mother  and  two  yearlings  which  were  promptly 
dispatched." 

On  one  occasion  two  Wyoming  cowboys  chased  a  black  ma- 
tured bear  from  his  usual  abode  out  into  the  open  where  he  was 
roped  about  the  neck,  each  man  keeping  the  rope  or  lasso  stretched 


Brown  Bear  Skin  (2)   Grizzly  Bear  Skin  (3)   Black  Bear  Skin 

(4)  Pile  of  Beaver  Skins  (5)  Pile  of  Marten  Skins 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  191 


and  bruin  in  the  middle  away  from  any  possible  harm  to  the 
horses  or  riders.  In  this  manner  and  position  he  was  partly  pulled, 
dragged  and  run  into  town  where  the  folks  viewed  the  prisoner 
with  unusual  admiration.  Towards  evening  a  mock  jury  con- 
demned the  prisoner  ''to  be  shot  in  the  head  until  dead." 

Some  years  ago  the  government  sent  a  special  party  to  cap- 
ture alive  some  of  the  monster  grizzlies  still  found  in  the  Rocky 
Mountain  regions  in  Canada.  This  party  was  successful  in  cap- 
turing two  large  specimens  weighing  over  two  thousand  pounds 
each.  From  their  report  it  would  seem  that  the  grizzlies  were 
captured  in  pitfalls  into  which  cages  were  lowered,  and  the  ani- 
mals being  partly  starved  were  driven  into  the  cages  and  then 
hoisted  and  placed  aboard  a  ship,  and  brought  to  the  United  States 
at  an  expense  of  about  $10,000.00.  Of  course,  no  trapper  or 
hunter  would  care  to  spend  such  a  sum  fitting  out  an  expedition. 

Deadfalls,  log  iiouse  traps,  snares,  pitfalls,  set  guns  and  New- 
house  steel  traps  are  commonly  used  for  capturing  these  monsters. 
The  large  No.  6  Newhouse  steel  trap  is  guaranteed  by  the  manu- 
facturers to  be  of  sufficient  strength  to  hold  a  two  thousand  five 
hundred  pound  grizzly  or  polar  bear.  If  steel  traps  are  used  the 
clog  must  be  twentv-five  to  fifty  pounds  for  an  ordinary  bear, 
and  seventy-five  to  one  hundred  pounds  for  the  grizzly  or  polar 
bear.  These  large  traps  should  be  set  with  clamps,  and  no  one  man 
should  attempt  to  set  these  powerful  devices  without  assistance. 
For  bait  large  chunks  of  meat  or  carcasses  of  small  animals  are 
commonly  used.  These  should  be  fastened.  Honey  bait  pre- 
pared in  various  ways  bring  excellent  results.  How  to  make  this 
bait  is  noted  elsewhere  in  this  book. 

If  you  have  reason  to  know  that  Mr.  Bruin  is  in  a  certain  lo- 
cality and  you  possess  a  large  trap  and  are  desirous  of  getting  the 
skin  and  meat — the  latter  being  very  delicious  and  highly  prized 
during  the  winter  months,  not  only  by  trappers  and  woodsmen 
but  also  city  people  (especially  in  large  cities  where  steaks  often 
retail  from  twenty-five  to  thirty-five  cents  per  pound),  you  should 
first  select  a  proper  place  to  set  the  trap.  A  good  location  is  next 
to  a  fallen  log.  The  latter  will  answer  for  one  part  of  the  ''V.'' 
Drive  a  sufficient  number  of  3-inch  thick  stakes,  twelve  to  twenty 
inches  into  the  ground;  the  stakes  should  protrude  about  three 
feet  above  the  ground  more  or  less  as  the  surroundings  warrant 
or  require.  Have  stakes  close  together.  The  row  of  stakes 
should  be  about  five  feet  long  and  the  mouth  of  the  should 
be  three  feet  wide.  When  this  is  done  excavate  immediately 
within  the  mouth  of  the  shaped  enclosure— in  which  excava- 
tion place  the  trap.  Arrange  the  trap  when  covered  with  leaves 
and  dirt  so  as  to  be  even  with  the  surrounding  ground.    Be  sure 


192         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


and  place  wool  or  similar  materials  underneath  the  pan  to  prevent 
dirt  from  getting  under  or  the  trap  being  sprung  by  small  ani- 
mals. After  this  is  completed  place  bait  in  the  narrowest  part  of 
the  "V"  enclosure.  Chain  should  be  attached  to  a  clog,  never  to 
a  stake  or  other  stationary  object. 


WHAT  DO  YOU  THINK  OF  THAT?       From  a  Photograph 

An  experienced  hunter  from  the  ''Great  Black  Forest''  in 
Europe  relates  that  he  caught  a  monstrous  bear  in  an  American 
steel  trap  set  at  the  widest  part  of  a  enclosure,  and  used  a 
small  squealing  pig  as  a  bait ;  the  latter  was  fastened  in  the  nar- 
rowest part  of  the  V-shaped  pen.  The  trap,  (supposed  to  have 
been  a  Newhouse  No.  6  )  was  set  in  an  excavation  between  the 
widest  part  of  the  enclosure  and  covered  with  earth,  leaves,  etc. 
The  springs  of  the  trap  nearly  touched  the  respective  opposite 
stakes  of  the  pen. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


193 


HOW  TO  HUNT  AND  TRAP  THE  RACCOON. 

The  animal  is  caught  in  traps  of  various  kinds  and  often 
hunted  by  dogs  and  chased  from  tree  to  tree,  and  out  of  hollow- 
logs  or  trees. 

Steel  traps  should  be  set  at  the  entrance  of  the  animal's  abode 
or  in  their  paths.  Snares  and  deadfalls  can  also  be  advantage- 
ously used.  The  bait  can  be  vegetables  or  meat  such  as  chicken, 
rabbits,  and  fish,  which  should  be  roasted  in  order  to  extend  an 
inviting  smell  and  give  the  animal  an  appetizing  relish. 

Favorable  results  are  obtained  in  the  late  fall  and  early  spring 
or  before  the  water  is  frozen,  by  setting  a  steel  trap  in  shallow 
water,  ten  to  fifteen  inches  from  the  shore,  with  some  shining 
object  placed  upon  the  pan,  or  the  latter  polished  so  that  when  the 
sun  shines,  its  brightness  is  reflected  to  the  observing  coon  when 
passing.  The  raccoon,  in  observing  the  shining  object,  becomes 
curious  and  will  examine  it.  He  will  slowly  step  into  the  water, 
snifif  and  smell  about,  place  his  paw  on  the  trap  and  if  he  does 
not  succeed  in  removing  the  object,  will  go  a  little  further  into  the 
water,  the  nearer  he  goes  the  more  weight  will  be  placed  upon  his 
foot,  thus  springing  the  trap  and  capturing  the  coon. 

At  other  times  the  trap  is  set  the  same  distance  away  from  the 
shore  on  some  especially  prepared  island.  The  bait  which  is  put 
on  a  stick  is  stuck  into  the  ground  six  to  twelve  inches  beyond 
the  island.  The  coon  will  smell  about  upon  discovering  the  bait, 
jump  upon  the  covered  trap  and  become  a  victim.  The  trap  thus 
set  should  be  staked  and  can  also  be  attached  to  a  spring  pole; 
a  sliding  pole  may  answer  the  purpose,  but  trappers  as  a  rule  dis- 
like the  idea  of  skinning  a  drowned  coon. 

A  good  idea  is  to  put  upon  the  stick  a  shining  tin  can  es- 
pecially polished  for  Mr.  Coon,  which  will  also  attract  him.  Other 
times  a  bright,  shining  tin  can  in  the  water  will  cause  the  coon 
to  leave  the  shore,  wade  to  the  can  and  with  his  paw,  slowly  roll 
it  towards  the  shore  or  abandon  it  if  it  rolls  into  too  deep  water.  A 
steel  trap  set  between  the  shore  and  the  curious  object  will  do  the 
trick ;  no  bait  necessary. 

Wire  traps,  as  well  as  the  new  tree  trap,  have  been  success- 
fully used  in  trapping  the  raccoon.  The  former  is  set  at  the  en- 
trance of  some  hole  or  cave,  and  the  latter  is  securely  fastened  on 
some  sloping  tree.  Both  traps  are  very  humane,  killing  or  chok- 
ing the  animal  in  the  space  of  a  few  moments. 

It  is  great  sport  to  hunt  the  raccoon  with  the  aid  of  dogs  and 
to  chase  him  out  of  hollow  logs  and  see  the  animal  dart  out  of 
same,  get  on  a  tree,  etc.,  only  to  be  brought  down  with  the  trusty 
rifle  or  be  captured  by  the  dogs  themselves. 


194         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


Hunting  this  animal  by  moonlight  is  great  sport.  Usually 
two  or  three  hunters,  one  with  a  rifle,  the  other  with  shotgun  and 
the  third  with  an  ax,  accompanied  by  two  good  dogs  constitute  the 
outfit  and  party.  The  dogs  will  usually  tree  the  coon  or  discover 
him  in  a  hollow  log;  then  the  fun  begins.  Of  course  the  coon 
won't  come  down  nor  will  he  get  out.  If  on  a  tree  a  fire  is  usually 
built  so  that  the  smoke  reaches  his  nostrils  when  he  will  jump 
down  and  a  fight  with  the  dogs  results.    Many  times  the  coon  es- 


Missouri  RACCOON  From  a  Photograph 


capes  only  to  be  treed  again,  other  times  he  is  killed  by  the  dogs  or 
hunters.  A  long  pole  is  used  to  poke  him  out  of  a  hollow  log; 
other  times  the  log  is  cut  down  or  into  pieces. 

If  the  night  is  dark  and  your  dogs  have  treed  a  coon  and  you 
are  unable  to  see  the  animal,  stand  with  your  back  against  the 
moon  and  face  tree,  or  build  a  fire  close  to  the  tree  and  stand 
off  a  ways  and  the  fire  will  no  doubt  illuminate  the  surroundings 
sufficiently  so  when  standing  at  a  distance  overlooking  the  fire 
towards  tree  you  will  see  the  coon  crouched  on  some  limb  or  be- 
tween some  fork  or  crotch,  Take  good  aim,  fire,  and  down  he 
will  fall 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  195 


TRAPPING  THE  SKUNK. 

This  animal  belongs  to  the  weasel  family,  and  is  nocturnal  in 
its  habits,  but  unlike  other  fur-bearing  animals  of  the  weasel  fam- 
ily, lacks  alertness.  It  is  unable  to  climb  trees,  is  exceedingly 
slow  in  locomotion  as  compared  with  other  animals,  and  naturally 
falls  an  easy  prey  to  the  average  hunter  or  trapper. 

The  only  drawback  and  reason  why  this  animal  was  not  exten- 
sively hunted  or  trapped  and  the  skin  marketed  twenty  or  thirty 
years  ago,  was  the  danger  of  being  sprayed  with  their  peculiar 
essence,  which  is  its  only  weapon  and  upon  that  the  animal  relies 
to  distract  the  hunter,  trapper  or  poacher  and,  naturally,  the 
strong  odor  becomes  speedily  effective  and  answers  the  purpose 
only  too  well. 

The  fur  is  fine  and  eagerly  sought  after,  especially  the  black 
furred  skins,  which  bring  high  prices.  As  many  as  500,000 
skunk  skins  are  marketed  in  a  year,  and  if  the  demand  is  good, 
the  skins  bring  75  cents  to  $3.00  each,  depending  on  size  and  qua- 
lity of  fur. 

The  skins  are  generally  divided  into  four  or  five  distinct 
grades,  and  each  grade  is  then  assorted  accordingly  to  quality  and 
size.  The  black,  short  or  half-striped,  narrow  or  long  striped, 
broad  striped  and  white,  are  the  common  grades,  but  the  skins 
vary  considerably  in  value.  The  fur  of  the  former  is  all  black, 
the  second,  or  half-striped  are  such  skins  as  have  two  short,  white 
stripes  descending  from  the  nose  over  the  head  and  reach  to 
about  the  center  of  body,  while  the  stripes  on  the  third  class  ex- 
tend clear  along  the  body  and  run  well  into  the  tail.  The  broad 
striped,  or  fourth  order^  as  above  enumerated,  is  similar  to  the 
third  order,  excepting  the  white  stripes  are  broader,  thus  lessening 
the  value  of  the  skin  considerably,  as  the  white  part  is  not  used 
by  manufacturers.  The  fifth  order,  or  white  skunks,  have  little 
value,  as  the  back,  in  fact,  nearly  all  portions  of  the  skin  is  covered 
with  white  fur,  and  such  skins  are  only  used  after  the  fur  is  dyed, 
for  cheap  garments  or  trimmings. 

Skunks  should  not  be  killed  for  the  pelt  out  of  season,  but 
this  is  true  of  all  animals,  where  the  furred  skin  has  a  market  val- 
ue. The  open  season  for  Minnesota,  Dakotas,  Iowa,  Wisconsin, 
Montana  and  northern  sections,  is  from  November  ist  to  Feb- 
ruary 15th,  varying  somewhat  upon  the  weather.  South  or  mid- 
dle states  the  season  opens  somewhat  earlier,  and  naturally  closes 
on  approach  of  warm  weather.  The  fur  of  the  skunk  is  the  first 
of  all  fur-bearing  animals  to  become  prime,  and  is  also  first  to 
suffer  the  loss  of  its  lustre  and  primeness. 

There  are  many  ways  and  methods  in  common  use  for  cap- 


All  Sections  SKUNK  SKINS  Open  Skins 

North  America  Improperly  Handled 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide,  197 


turing  and  killing  this  animal,  but  probably  the  best  is  the  use 
of  steel  traps,  though  a  long  stick  is  equally  as  good,  providing 
the  one  who  holds  it  comprehends  his  business  and  uses  same  ad- 
vantageously. The  author  has  known  two  lads  to  kill  and  skin 
forty  skunks  in  a  day.  Of  course,  great  care  must  be  exercised 
to  kill  the  animal  without  receiving  a  discharge  of  the  perfume. 
A  six  to  eight  foot  long  stick,  one  and  a  half  to  two  inches  in 
diameter  is  the  proper  weapon  and  instrument  to  use  in  killing 
skunks.  A  smart  blow  on  the  back  about  one  to  two  inches  be- 
yond the  tail  will  readily  fell  the  animal.  This  blow  will  paralyze 
and  benumb  the  muscles  and  nerves  employed  by  the  animal  to 
distribute  its  obnoxious  fluid.  An  additional  blow  is  necessary, 
and  the  latter  should  be  given  on  top  of  head. 

Steel  traps  are  used  with  good  efifect.  They  should  be  set  just 
before  the  hole  and  be  covered  with  loose  bits  of  dirt,  leaves  or 
other  vegetation.  Some  prefer  to  use  bait,  the  latter  can  be  a 
beef  head,  a  chicken,  or,  in  fact,  any  chunk  of  old  meat  or  carcass. 
Drag  same  in  various  ways  and  drop  in  a  conspicuous  place  or  in 
center  of  a  nest  of  traps.  The  trap  should  be  attached  to  a  clog, 
or  loose  bushes,  never  attach  two  traps  to  the  same  article. 
Skunks  often  spring  traps  set  for  mink,  wolf  and  other  animals, 
but  seldom  devour  or  even  touch  a  victim  should  they  come  upon 
same  while  making  their  nocturnal  visits. 

The  usual  bait  for  skunk  is  birds,  bits  of  meat,  pieces  of 
chicken  and  rabbit,  whether  old  or  fresh.  A  good  method  and 
trap  is  to  bury  a  large  dry  goods  box ;  see  that  the  top  is  even  with 
the  surface  of  the  earth,  place  light  brushes,  leaves,  hay  or  straw 
across  the  opening,  upon  which  sprinkle  a  little  loose  earth.  Some 
prefer  to  make  an  artificial  opening  in  top  of  box  after  same  is 
buried,  into  which  the  skunk  will  descend,  rather  fall  in,  but  can- 
not get  out.  Some  strong  smelling  bait  should  be  placed  in  the 
box,  which  is  to  attract  the  animal  from  a  distance.  As  many 
as  eight  skunks  have  been  caught  during  one  night  by  the  use  of 
this  style  of  box  trap. 

Another  method  is  the  so-called  barrel  trap.  A  sugar,  vine- 
gar or  whiskey  barrel  will  answer.  Remove  the  head  and  securely 
fasten  the  bait  on  inside  bottom  of  barrel.  Place  the  barrel  in  a 
slanting  position,  open  part  toward  the  earth,  and  arrange  by 
balancing  the  barrel  in  such  a  way  that  when  the  skunk  enters 
by  crawling  up  in  barrel,  being  attracted  there  by  the  bait,  the 
barrel  with  the  skunk  will  tip  over  and  Mr.  Skunk  fall  on  his  nose 
inside  of  the  barrel  and  be  a  captive.  This  is  a  good  and  cheap 
trap  and  the  victim  cannot  get  out,  though  only  one  animal  can 
be  caught  at  one  time.  Some  trappers  dig  the  skunk  out,  others 
dig  until  they  reach  the  cavity  in  which  they  usually  have  their 


(3)  Clear  White 

(1)  Black  SKUNK  SKINS  (4)    Single  Striped 

(2)  White  All  Tanned  (5)  Star 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  199 


nests  and  are  found  huddled  up  together  in  a  bunch.  If  found 
in  such  a  position  it  is  an  easy  matter  to  suffocate  them,  thus  oblit- 
erating all  possible  chances  of  the  animals  distributing  their  ob- 
noxious perfume.  All  that  is  necessary  after  one  sees  the  ani- 
mals is  to  cover  them  up  with  soft  dirt,  which  should  be  lightly 
tamped  every  two  inches  of  filling  and  continued  until  about  fif- 
teen to  eighteen  inches  is  securely  tamped.  In  about  fifteen  to 
twenty  minutes  the  trapper  can  uncover  the  den  by  removing  the 
earth,  and  he  will  find  the  animals  suffocated. 

It  is  unnecessary,  but  we  recommend  for  the  trapper,  (new  be- 
ginners) or  hunters,  to  remove  the  perfume  containers  (glands) 
before  skinning,  as  one  is  likely  to  cut  into  the  bags  and  distri- 
bute the  perfume,  but  if  removed  all  danger  of  coming  in  con- 
tact with  the  liquid  weapon  is  of  the  past. 

Skunks,  when  located  in  holes,  can  be  smoked  out  or  suffo- 
cated, either  with  common  smoke  or  vapors  arising  from  burning 
sulphur.  To  locate  the  distance  of  digging,  insert  a  long  switch 
or  telegraph  wire  into  the  hole.  The  author  has  personally  seen 
trappers  dig  down  for  a  short  distance  and  then  reach  after  the 
animals  with  their  hands,  and  sure  enough  they  succeed  in  bring- 
in  the  animals,  one  by  one,  from  their  den.  Strange  as  it  seems 
no  perfume  was  discharged.  This  is  probably  due  to  the  fact 
that  the  other  trapper  assisted  by  knocking  them  senseless  imme- 
diately after  their  heads  appeared  through  the  hole.  A  piece  of 
%-inch  round  iron,  about  twelve  inches  in  length,  was  used. 
Trappers  relate  and  claim  that  it  is  a  positive  fact  that  the  skunk 
will  refrain  from  biting  or  discharging  their  perfume  while  in 
their  holes. 

Deidfalls,  figure  four  and  other  home-made  traps  can  be  em- 
plo}  ed,'  though  the  animal  must  be  skinned  promptly,  and  often 
the  fur  becomes  damaged  from  the  instrument  itself  or  by  long  de- 
lay and  exposure  to  the  weather.  There  are  many  other  methods 
and  ways  to  capture  and  kill  this  animal,  but  by  the  foregoing 
anyone  contemplating  to  trap  or  hunt  will  have  the  essential 
knowledge. 

The  rifie  can  be  used  whenever  possible,  but  the  use  of  the 
shotgun  is  detrimental  to  the  skin,  and  its  use  should  be  prevented 
when  the  question  of  its  fur  is  taken  into  consideration.  The 
animal  should  not  be  entirely  eradicated  from  any  particular  lo- 
cality, as  the  skunk  is  more  beneficial  than  harmful  to  the  farms, 
and  again,  the  killing  of  skunks  out  of  season  is  entirely  absurd 
and  uncalled  for,  the  animal  being  harmless.  The  meat  while  not 
generally  consumed,  can  be  used,  though  when  fried,  it  is  dry 
and  tough,  resembling  bull  meat  in  that  respect.  The  fat  is  used 
for  medicinal  purposes,  though  of  recent  years,  substitutes  are 


Various  Sizes 


CIVET  CAT  SKINS  Middle  West 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


201 


placed  before  the  public  and  the  demand  consequently  somewhat 
lessened. 

The  druggist  who  formerly  handled  refined  skunk  oil,  will 
now  satisfy  the  purchaser  with  adulterants  or  cheap  imitations. 
Skunk  oil  is  highly  recommended  for  sore  throat,  croup,  etc. 

TRAPPING  THE  CIVET  CAT. 

The  civet  cat,  like  the  skunk,  is  an  easy  animal  to  trap.  The 
same  methods  are  employed  in  trapping  the  civet  cat  as  are  used 
for  skunk.  Use  same  size  traps,  if  anything,  smaller,  and  set  same 
as  for  skunk.  Traps  are  set  at  openings  of  dens ;  at  other  times 
make  artificial  enclosure  for  the  trap,  so  as  to  cover  the  bait  from 
the  weather.  Wire  traps  are  also  very  good.  In  fact,  I  prefer  the 
wire  trap  to  the  steel  trap  every  time  when  the  former  can  be 
set  in  front  of  some  abode. 

In  skinning  one  must  be  careful  not  to  cut  the  scent  bags. 
One  would  hardly  believe  that  two  civet  cats  could  be  caught  in 
the  same  trap,  but  such  has  been  the  case.  Presumably  both 
oame  across  the  bait  at  the  same  time  and  in  their  eagerness  to 
take  hold,  stepped  on  the  pan.  As  far  as  bait  is  concerned  any 
old  piece  of  meat  will  do.  No  bait  is  necessary  when  traps  are  set 
in  front  of  their  dens  or  over  their  holes. 

TRAPPING  THE  OPOSSUM. 

The  opossum  is  an  easy  animal  to  trap,  being  of  a  lazy  dispo- 
sition and  does  not  suspect  danger  as  does  the  mink,  fox  or  wolf, 
in  this  respect  he  resembles  the  skunk  very  much.  Almost  the 
identical  methods  used  in  the  capture  of  the  skunk  can  be  applied 
to  the  opossum. 

The  best  manner  to  trap  them  is  with  steel  traps,  No.  i,  No. 
i^,  not  larger  than  No.  2.  He  can  also  be  taken  with  deadfalls, 
box  traps,  snares  and  by  the  use  of  poison.  In  seeking  to  capture 
the  opossum  one  need  only  study  his  habits,  ascertain  his  where- 
abouts and  then  by  placing  bait  along  his  path  which  usually  is 
beside  fences,  he  is  easily  taken. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  the  opossum  feigns  death  and  the 
trapper  should  make  sure  of  his  victim ;  otherwise  he  may  trouble 
himself  carrying  the  supposed  dead  opossum  home,  only  to  find 
that  ''the  dead  arise''  and  leave  in  quick  order.  A  smart  rap  or 
blow  on  the  forehead  is  sufficient.  Many  instances  have  been 
reported  to  us  where  the  opossum,  after  being  released  from  the 
trap,  he  having  feigned  death,  scampered  away. 

Many  prefer  to  smoke  the  opossum  out  if  located  in  some 


Opossum  Skin 


Badger  Skin 


Opossum  Skin 


Andersch  Bros.*  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  203 


den  or  in  a  hollow  tree.  Take  cotton  waste,  rags,  or  if  in  a  hol- 
low tree  make  a  fire  below,  and  you  will  soon  have  him  on  the 
limb,  if  such  is  possible  for  the  animal  to  reach. 

For  bait  use  any  old  piece  of  meat  as  he  is  not  very  fastidious 
and  cares  little  whether  it  is  fresh  or  putrid.  The  skin  should  be 
handled  similar  to  that  of  the  skunk,  never  cut  open  on  the  belly 
but  leave  it  cased ;  preferably  to  have  the  flesh  side  out.  The 
tiil  should  be  severed  from  the  body  and  all  fat  removed  from 
the  skin.  The  skin  is  very  tender  and  the  party  in  charge  must 
exercise  due  judgment  in  skinning,  scraping  and  stretching,  es- 
pecially if  in  the  latter  process  one-piece  stretchers  are  used.  We 
recommend  the  three-piece  stretchers  every  time.  The  skin  of 
the  opossum  has  no  value  out  of  season  and  low,  thrashy  skins 
should  not  be  marketed. 

TRAPPING  THE  BADGER. 

There  are  no  particular  secrets  or  methods  in  trapping  this 
animal.  The  steel  trap  is  invariably  used  (No.  2  and  No.  3  traps 
recommended),  and  a  great  many  badgers,  owing  to  their  size 
and  slow  locomotion,  are  dispatched  by  the  use  of  the  rifle  in  the 
hands  of  hunters  and  trappers. 

Snares  cannot  be  used  effectively,  though  if  attached  to  a 
spring  pole  of  sufficient  strength  to  hoist  the  animal  off  the 
ground,  a  strong  line  or  wire  may  be  arranged  for  his  capture. 

Deadfalls  and  other  home-made  appliances  can  be  used,  but 
the  animal  must  be  immediately  killed.  It  would  be  a  foolish 
hunter  to  use  box  trap  or  pitfall  for  a  badger,  as  in  the  course 
of  no  time  the  animal  will  free  himself. 

Steel  traps  should  be  placed  slightly  within  the  abode  or  den 
and  if  the  latter  cannot  be  found,  the  traps  can  be  placed  in  his 
paths.  As  the  badger  has  many  holes  it  is  quite  necessary  that 
all  excepting  one  be  closed  up,  within  which  a  No.  2  or  No.  3 
trap  should  be  set.  Bait  is  unnecessary  though  if  desired,  can  be 
used. 

There  is  probably  no  animal  that  is  as  easily  captured  as  the 
badger,  since  he  can  be  approached  without  danger,  and  any  one 
having  any  courage  at  all,  can  knock  him  on  the  head  with  a  five 
or  six  foot  stick.  Quite  often  he  is  dug  out  the  same  as  skunk, 
but  this  a  tedious  job,  especially  during  the  winter.  Digging 
them  out  is  not  recommended,  as  badgers  are  likely  to  have  many 
passages  and  quite  often  the  skins  are  poorly  furred,  due  to  their 
hibernating  habit.  The  skins  of  the  badger  are  only  good  dur- 
ing the  winter  time  and  only  from  those  that  have  exposed  them- 
selves to  the  severe  weather  a  good  share  of  the  time. 


LYNX  SKINS 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  205 


TRAPPING  THE  LYNX. 

The  lynx,  like  the  mountain  lion,  can  be  caught  in  traps,  but 
whenever  opportunity  presents  he  should  be  killed  with  the  rifle. 
Steel  traps  and  deadfalls  are  responsible  for  most  deaths,  and  it 
is  to  be  regretted  that  the  animal  is  not  as  easy  to  trap  as  one 
mav  imagine. 

He  is  not  numerous  in  any  parts  of  the  United  States,  but 
formerly  was  found  quite  plentiful  in  the  western  mountainous 
states  and  in  the  timbered  sections  from  Minnesota  down  along 
the  Canadian  border  as  far  south  as  the  Alleghany  mountains 
and  northward  into  Canada.  As  aforesaid,  deadfalls  and  steel 
traps  are  chiefly  used  in  killing  this  carnivorous  cat.  When  using 
steel  traps  nothing  smaller  than  No.  2^2  will  securely  hold  the 
Canadian  lynx,  but  instances  are  recorded  where  this  animal 
sprung  a  No.  i  trap  and  the  jaw  held  the  brute  by  one  of  his  toes 
until  the  hunter  released  him  from  his  misery.  The  Newhouse 
traps  are  much  preferred  over  any  other  steel  traps — No.  3  or  3^ 
probably  best  adapted.  The  former  is  a  double  spring  trap,  the 
other  a  single  spring  with  four  prongs.  Either  of  them  will  hold 
Mr.  Lynx.  By  all  means  fasten  the  chain  securely  to  some  spring 
pole  and  if  this  cannot  be  done  to  some  limb  which  he  is  able  to 
drag  a  short  distance. 

As  the  lynx  is  found  principally  in  dense  forests,  it  is  quite  nat- 
ural that  the  traps  must  be  set  in  some  place  that  the  animal  fre- 
quent ;  quite  often  in  a  trail  or  open  place ;  if  the  latter,  choose  a 
good-sized  tree  against  which  make  an  artificial  abode.  The  lynx 
is  known  to  follow  lines  of  marten  traps,  and  follow  the  trap- 
per from  one  place  to  another,  anticipating  a  carcass,  bait,  etc., 
and  occasionally  steals  the  bait  placed  by  the  trapper  for  mink 
and  marten.  The  traps  should  be  covered  in  the  usual  way. 
Steel  traps  can  also  be  set  underneath  the  snow,  but  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  wool,  leaves  or  other  material  must  be  placed  beneath 
the  pan.  He  has  also  been  caught  in  traps  set  for  wolves  and 
foxes.  Is  known  to  favor  the  smell  of  castoreum  and  many  a 
trapper  lures  the  lynx  to  his  death  by  the  use  of  this  decoy.  His 
presence  is  made  known  to  the  trapper  during  the  night-time 
by  the  peculiar  yell  that  he  gives  from  time  to  time. 

The  deadfall  has  been  successfully  used  probably  for  at  least 
100  years.  In  fact,  the  early  Canadian  trapper  confined  himself 
almost  exclusively  to  this  variety  of  trap.  These  were  set  in  con- 
spicuous places  and  the  bait  so  arranged  that  the  lynx,  in  touch- 
ing the  trigger,  caused  the  upper  log  to  fall  upon  his  head,  killing 
him  instantly.  The  snare  can  be  advantageously  used  if  the  paths 
of  the  animal  lead  through  brush.  The  ends  of  the  wire  or  line 
should  be  fastened  to  some  spring  pole.    One  shrewd  trapper 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


207 


was  accustomed  to  set  his  traps  in  his  own  path,  especially  when 
the  ground  was  covered  with  snow.  He  took  pains  that  the  path 
should  be  fairly  smooth  and  placed  a  small,  dry  piece  of  a  limb 
between  the  traps  over  which  the  animal  was  expected  to  step, 
and  in  so  doing  step  upon  the  pan  and  spring  the  trap,  thus  be- 
coming a  victim.  The  chain  was  invariably  attached  to  some  limb, 
or  permanently  to  some  near-by  brush.  He  managed  to  trap 
many  lynx  in  this  way.  At  other  times  he  made  an  artificial 
abode  against  a  tree  and  set  his  trap  at  the  entrance.  To  prevent 
rabbits,  squirrels  and  similar  animals  from  springing  these  traps, 
it  is  advisable  to  place  some  dry  brush  in  front  of  the  opening  over 
which  the  the  small  animals  will  hardly  climb ;  the  lynx,  on  the 
other  hand,  will  shove  this  aside :  so  will  the  wolverene  and  fisher. 

A  full-grown  Canadian  lynx  is  equal  to  two  or  three  average 
dogs  and  in  a  fight,  should  any  of  the  latter  escape,  they  are 
usually  so  badly  wounded  that  they  die  thereafter ;  other  times  are 
killed  by  the  owner  to  stop  their  painful  sufiferings.  The  lynx,  on 
the  other  hand,  often  escapes. 

HOW  TO  HUNT  AND  TRAP  THE  WILD  CAT. 

This  animal,  like  the  lynx,  can  be  caught  in  traps  but  is  gen- 
erally tracked  by  dogs  and  is  brought  to  bay  with  the  rifle.  Traps 
can  be  set  about  the  shores  of  rivers  and  lakes,  or  in  paths.  If 
a  place  is  found  where  the  cat  has  lately  devoured  its  victim  and 
lett  a  few  remnants,  one  or  two  traps  should  be  set  about  the  lo- 
cation. Traps  should  be  covered  up  in  the  usual  manner.  Any 
of  the  baits  used  for  lynx  will  answer  the  purpose.  Bait  placed 
within  hollow  logs  and  the  traps  concealed  in  the  usual  manner 
will  often  result  in  his  capture.  One  or  two  dogs  are  seldom 
equal  to  a  cat  and  generally  are  put  into  misery  and  the  cat  es- 
capes. Many  traps  set  for  coon  or  mink  are  sprung  by  the  wild 
cat  and,  if  strong  enough,  detain  the  animal. 

Quite  often  steel  traps  are  set  on  each  side  of  a  log,  or  edges 
thereof  over  or  along  which  the  animal  is  known  to  travel.  If 
a  good,  strong  trap  is  placed  at  the  entrance  of  a  V  or  U  shaped 
enclosure  and  a  piece  of  rabbit  is  thrown  further  into  the  den, 
the  result  quite  often  is  favorable  to  the  trapper.  If  one  is  suc- 
cessful in  locating  their  habitual  paths,  traps  should  be  set  there- 
on. Exercise  great  care  in  leaving  the  surroundings  natural  and 
always  cover  traps  so  that  nothing  of  the  human  work  is  visible. 

Another  good  place  to  set  traps  is  where  the  animal  has  pre- 
viously enjoyed  a  former  meal,  and  especially  if  some  leavings  re- 
main. Place  three  or  four  traps  in  the  immediate  vicinity.  The 
cat  will  return  to  this  place  the  same  day,  or  in  a  few  days,  and 
in  so  doing  is  Ycry  likely  to  spring  a  trap. 


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Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


209 


HOW  TO  HUNT  THE  JAGUAR,  MOUNTAIN  LION  AND 

COUGAR. 

Either  of  the  above  brutes  can  be  captured  with  steel  traps, 
but  the  scarcity,  peculiar  habits  and  great  strength,  are  obstacles 
to  the  ordinary  trapper,  who  like  the  hunter,  prefers  the  trusty 
rifle  in  going  against  this  monster  cat.  Should  one  be  fortunate 
to  locate  a  place  where  one  of  these  brutes  recently  enjoyed  a 
meal  and  some  remnants  remain,  at  vSuch  a  place,  set  two  or 
three  No.  4>^,  No.  50  or  No.  150  Newhouse  Steel  Traps.  The 
traps  should  be  buried  and  covered  up  with  loose  earth,  leaves, 
rotten  wood,  etc.,  suitable  to  the  surroundings.  A  clog  or  drag 
must  be  attached  to  either  of  the  latter  traps,  which  must  also 
be  buried.  Traps  set  in  front  of  their  dens  or  in  paths,  brings 
result.  Snares  can  also  be  arranged,  but  one  should  take  care 
not  to  under  estimate  the  strength  of  these  ferocious  beasts. 
Dead -falls  have  been  and  are  still  used  in  remote  timber  sec- 
tions, not  only  in  Canada  and  Alaska,  but  also  in  the  Western 
States. 

A  certain  Mr.  Saunders,  formerly  of  the  Black  Hills  in 
Dakota,  where  he  gained  much  experience  in  mining  and  some 
in  hunting  and  trapping,  relates  that  he  killed  many  a  Mountain 
Lion  with  a  Savage  rifle,  and  captured  both  the  male  and  female 
brutes  in  steel  traps.  A  few  years  ago  he  moved  to  the  Klon- 
dike and  from  there  sent  us  many  skins.  He  was  quite  suc- 
cessful in  capturing  this  brute  in  dead -falls,  but  most  of  the  skins 
received  from  him  indicated  that  the  brutes  were  killed  with  the 
rifle. 

A  Wyoming  trapper  relates  that  he  succeeded  in  chasing  one 
of  these  monsters  into  a  cave,  and  not  wishing  to  wait  until  the 
brute  came  out,  he  partly  closed  the  opening,  arranged  a  snare 
out  of  a  galvanized  wash  line  and  securely  fastened  the  other 
end  to  a  spring  pole.  The  next  morning  he  visited  the  den  and 
found  the  Lion  in  the  snare,  partly  off  the  ground,  but  very 
much  alive.    A  bullet  in  the  chest  sent  the  brute  to  eternity. 

Many  difficulties  are  encountered  in  bringing  this  brute  to 
bay.  Rarely  is  he  seen  by  the  hunter,  for  he  manages  to  see  the 
hunter  and  makes  good  his  escape  before  he  himself  is  seen. 
Dogs  are  used  to  track  and  locate  him,  and  at  times  sett -guns 
are  conveniently  placed  so  as  to  kill  the  monster  on  his  next 
passage. 

The  skins  have  no  great  value  and  are  chiefly  used  for  orna- 
mental purposes.  If  one  is  fortunate  to  kill  or  capture  this 
brute  and  desires  the  animal  mounted,  he  should  preserve  the  leg 
bones  and  be  very  careful  in  skinning,  especially  about  the  eyes, 
ears,  nose  and  lips ;  paws,  of  course,  should  be  left  attached. 


Andersch  Bros. 


BALING  RAW  FURS 

For  Export 


Scene  in  Fur  Room 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  211 


TRAPPING  THE  MUSKRAT. 

The  muskrat  is  found  in  marshes,  lakes  and  rivers,  and  their 
abode  is  principally  in  dome-shaped  houses  made  by  them  during 
the  fall  months.  At  times,  and  in  certain  sections,  the  muskrat 
makes  his  abode  in  banks,  other  times  in  hollow  trees,  but  always 
if  not  in  the  water,  in  close  proximity  thereto. 

The  muskrat  is  captured  in  many  ways  and  it  does  not  require 
long  experience  to  enable  one  to  capture  them.  At  the  same 
time  an  experienced  trapper  will  be  much  more  successful  than  one 
who  has  had  no  previous  experience  and  who  is  unacquainted  with 
the  many  methods,  kind  of  traps,  and  other  arrangements  in  use 
by  the  more  experienced  trapper.  Where  one  trapper  may  get 
ten  or  fifteen  rats,  the  other  may  get  twenty-five  or  more  in  the 
same  space  of  time,  and  probably  with  less  exertion. 

The  muskrat  is  chiefly  caught  in  steel  traps,  although  many  are 
shot,  sufifocated,  speared,  drowned,  killed  in  deadfalls,  wire  traps, 
snares  and  other  home-made  appliances ;  but  probably  two-thirds 
of  the  muskrats  captured  whose  skins  are  marketed,  were  caught 
in  steel  traps. 

The  use  of  a  spear  for  capturing  muskrats  is  slowly  dying  out, 
as  the  pelts  become  more  or  less  damaged,  and  as  a  rule  fur 
dealers  class  them  as  damaged,  although  if  the  skins  are  not  badly 
pierced  and  only  about  the  head  or  neck,  they  will  generally  pass 
as  No.  I,  unless  otherwise  damaged  or  unprime.  Some  use  regu- 
lar fish  spears,  others  single  prong  spears  with  the  usual  project- 
ing hooks.  These  spears  can  be  made  by  any  village  blacksmith 
or  can  be  purchased  at  hardware  stores.  The  handle  with  the 
spear  is  from  eight  to  twelve  feet  long. 

Many  thousands  of  muskrats  are  annually  killed  by  the  rifle, 
in  and  out  of  season,  that  are  never  skinned.  Have  known  trap- 
pers to  give  up  steel  traps  and  entirely  depend  upon  their  small 
22  calibre  rifle.  The  skin  is  not  damaged  to  any  great  extent,  es- 
pecially if  the  bullet  should  strike  the  head  or  neck.  Such  skins 
are  much  preferred  over  those  that  are  speared,  and  no  great,  if 
any,  distinction  is  made  between  skins  killed  by  such  a  small  cal- 
ibre rifle  and  those  that  are  trapped.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that 
many  trappers,  especially  the  inexperienced  ones,  resort  to  killing 
the  muskrat  with  birdshot  or  shells  intended  for  fowls.  The 
skins,  showing  so  many  holes,  are  always  rejected  and  bring  a 
very  small  price,  consequently  the  use  of  the  shot  gun  is  detri- 
mental to  the  hunter's  interest,  and  we  recommend  trappers  to 
refrain  from  killing  this,  or  any  other  fur  bearing  animal,  with 
the  shot  gun. 

A  great  many  muskrats  are  annually  captured  bv  robbing  the 


212  Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


animal  of  its  breath.  The  operation  is  simple,  and  to  many  amus- 
ing. In  this  operation  the  trapper  takes  a  stick,  axe  or  hatchet 
and  walks  out  upon  the  ice  to  their  houses,  and  strikes  a  sharp 
blow  upon  the  house.  If  the  house  is  inhabited  he  will  imme- 
diately see  the  muskrat  depart.  By  following  one  of  them,  say 
a  distance  of  thirty  to  forty  feet,  he  will  see  the  animal  come 
next  to  the  ice,  place  his  nose  against  it,  expel  his  breath  which 
immediately  forms  into  bubbles,  and  after  a  few  moments  begins 
to  inhale  the  purified  air.  If  the  trapper  intends  to  rob  the  ani- 
mal of  his  breath,  all  that  is  necessary  is  to  disturb  him  before  he 
inhales  the  air  that  is  contained  in  the  bubbles.  On  being  dis- 
turbed the  muskrat  swims  a  distance  of  ten  to  thirty  feet  and  en- 
deavors to  repeat  the  operation.  It  must  again  be  disturbed,  and 
if  successful,  the  muskrat  will  be  unable  to  swim  much  farther 
and  for  lack  of  air,  will  shortly  drown.  The  proper  time  to  drive 
them  away  from  their  breath  is  when  the  air  is  expelled  from  their 
lungs.  The  trapper  will  know  this  by  the  many  bubbles  next  to 
the  ice.  He  must  immediately  drive  him  away,  follow  his  course 
and  repeat  the  operation.  Having  succeeded  in  separating  the 
muskrat  from  his  breath,  the  drov^ned  body  will  lie  next  to  the 
ice,  when  the  trapper  takes  his  hatchet  or  axe,  chops  a  hole  and 
takes  the  body  out.  In  about  ten  minutes  or  so  the  operation  can 
be  repeated,  as  by  this  time  many  of  the  other  muskrats  have  re- 
turned to  their  house :  if  not,  other  houses  should  be  looked  up. 

Deadfalls  have  been  used,  but  as  the  value  of  the  skin  is  so 
small,  it  hardly  pays  a  trapper  to  resort  to  this  method,  as  they 
cannot  be  moved  from  one  place  to  another  advantageously  and 
then  again  the  labor  and  time  expended  is  too  great  for  the  pos- 
sible remuneration.  These  are  more  adapted  to  places  where  the 
muskrat  makes  his  home  in  banks  rather  than  in  houses  out  in 
the  marshes  or  lakes. 

What  is  true  of  the  deadfall  is  also  true  of  the  snare.  They 
do  not  seem  to  pay,  since  steel  traps  are  too  popular  and  reason- 
ably cheap.  Furthermore  snares  cannot  be  successfully  arranged 
due  to  the  habits,  especially  at  times  when  the  skin  is  prime. 

As  heretofore  stated,  two-thirds  of  the  skins  marketed,  comes 
from  animals  captured  in  steel  traps.  Steel  traps  are  set  in  nu- 
merous ways,  and  especially  can  good  results  be  obtained  in  the 
spring  months  immediately  after  the  ice  becomes  melted.  No,  i 
and  No.  1V2  steel  traps  are  set  below  the  ice  in  front  of  the  open- 
ings into  their  houses,  or  what  is  still  better  on  their  paths  leading 
up  the  bank.  Some  trappers  prefer  to  set  steel  traps  in  and  about 
their  usual  feeding  grounds,  others  at  a  point  where  the 
animal  passes  from  the  shore  into  deep  water.  If  a  hole  is  made 
in  the  dome-shaped  house  and  a  trap  is  set,  either  upon  the  shelf 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  213 


or  next  to  the  hole,  through  which  they  pass  into  and  from  deep 
water,  one  is  quite  assured  of  having  it  sprung  by  a  muskrat  and 
once  in  a  while  by  a  mink.  The  hole  made  into  the  house  must 
be  closed  to  prevent  the  water  from  becoming  frozen,  which 
would  make  the  house  uninhabitable. 

Many  trappers  prefer  to  set  a  line  of  traps  upon  some  plank  or 
railroad  tie,  which  is  later  shoved  out  into  the  lake  near  muskrat 
houses.  The  chains  are  fastened  to  the  log  or  plank,  and  when  the 
muskrat  springs  a  trap  he  immediately  jumps  into  the  water  and 
drowns.  (See  illustration).  At  times  traps  are  lowered  into  the 
water  and  set  in  their  paths.  Such  traps  must  be  covered  and  the 
chains  fastened  either  to  a  stake  or  to  a  wire.  It  is  of  utmost  im- 
portance that  all  traps  set  in  or  about  the  water  should  be  so  fas- 
tened or  arranged  that  the  animal  will  jump  into  deep  water  and 
drown,  thus  preventing  the  gnawing  or  twisting  off  of  his  leg 
and  thus  escaping. 

Bait  is  unnecessary  in  most  sets,  excepting  if  traps  are  set 
away  from  their  paths  or  feeding  grounds,  in  which  case  carrots, 
parsnips,  or  a  piece  of  their  own  meat  may  be  used.  Decoy  is 
likewise  unnecessary,  but  if  its  use  should  facilitate  matters,  sug- 
gest that  a  few  drops  of  musk  from  the  female  muskrat  be 
sprinkled  about  the  trap ;  this  musk  can  be  procured  by  any  trap- 
per. All  that  is  necessary  is  to  capture  the  female  muskrat  and 
squeeze  the  contents  of  the  bag  that  is  near  the  vagina,  into  a 
bottle.  Bait  should  be  fastened  to  a  stick  and  placed  6  to  lo  in- 
ches above  the  trap.  As  elsewhere  stated,  arrange  the  setting 
so  that  the  animal  cannot  regain  the  surface,  or  obtain  air,  and 
without  air  it  must  drown. 

Barrel  and  box  traps  are  used  by  many  trappers  with  great 
success.  Sink  a  water-tight  barrel  so  that  two  or  three  inches 
protrude  above  the  level,  and  arrange  a  top  or  cover  to  swing  on 
two  pegs.  Weight  it  in  such  a  way  that  when  the  muskrat  crawls 
or  jumps  upon  the  cover,  he  will  be  dumped  into  the  barrel.  The 
barrel  should  be  weighted  down  in  its  place  with  stones  and  be 
filled  about  half  full  of  water.  The  muskrat  not  being  able  to  get 
out,  will  drown  very  shortly.  (See  illustration).  Bait  should  be 
used.  This  is  fastened  on  the  cover.  Carrots,  flesh,  apples,  etc., 
will  answer  the  purpose. 

The  muskrat  is  also  captured  in  boxes  or  troughs  similarly 
arranged  as  the  barrel  trap,  excepting  that  they  may  be  floated 
from  one  place  to  another.  At  other  times  platforms  are  sunk 
beneath  the  ice  or  water  level,  upon  which  traps  are  arranged. 
The  platform  is  held  secure  by  being  fastened  to  some  scantling 
or  pole  driven  into  the  ground.  At  other  times  small 
platforms  are  nailed  to  a  scantling  or  stake,  upon  which  a 


214         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


steel  trap  is  set.  Then  the  entire  stake  is  driven  into  the 
ground.  Bait  is  placed  five  to  six  inches  above  the  platform 
and  when  the  animal  tries  to  get  at  the  bait  quite  natu- 
rally steps  upon  the  platform,  thus  springing  the  trap  and  be- 
comes a  victim.  A  double  platform  can  be  arranged,  but  it  is  not 
advisable  to  place  more  than  two  traps  to  any  stake.  Such  stakes 
should  be  driven  at  or  near  the  muskrat  house,  and  if  possible  in 
the  path. 

Elsewhere  in  this  book  will  be  found  many  illustrations  suit- 
able for  trapping  muskrats ;  one  interested  should  read  the  dif- 
ferent methods  successfully  used  by  trappers. 


WELL  HANDLED  RED  FOX  SKINS 

Courtesy  of  the  National  Sportsman,  Boston,  Mass. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


215 


TRAPPING  THE  BEAVER. 

It  was  common  for  fur  dealers  to  receive  hundreds  and  thou- 
sands of  beaver  skins  annually  ten  or  more  years  ago,  but  of  re- 
cent years  the  receipts  are  light,  due  to  the  rapid  decrease  of  the 
beaver  in  the  states.  Nothwithstanding  the  rigid  laws  and  their 
prompt  enforcement,  the  beaver  will  soon  become  extinct  and  the 
supply  be  drawn  chiefly  from  Canada.  We  do  not  want  to  be 
understood  as  saying  there  are  no  beavers  left,  as  such  is  un- 
true. In  some  states  beavers  have  increased  during  the  past 
few  years  due  to  the  rigid  enforcement  of  the  law.  The  killing 
of  beavers  is  prohibited  in  most  states  throughout  the  season. 
However,  it  is  only  a  question  of  time  when  civilization  will  force 
the  beaver  to  seek  others  quarters,  and  as  the  animal  is  not  in- 
clined to  migrate,  quite  often  prevented,  due  to  natural  condi- 
tions, at  other  times  killed  by  the  hunter,  trapper  or  farmer,  the 
former  for  curiosity's  sake,  the  latter  to  prevent  the  cutting  of  tim- 
ber and  to  faclliate  the  natural  flow  of  water,  he  will  shortly  be- 
come unknown,  especially  in  sections  where  the  woodsman's  axe 
uncovers  the  natural  haunt  of  the  beaver. 

There  are  many  ways  to  capture  and  kill  this  animal.  The 
steel  trap  is  preferred  by  trappers,  while  hunters  use  the  deadly 
rifle  to  eradicate  the  beaver  and  often  without  receiving  any 
remuneration.  Deadfalls,  snares  and  other  home-made  contriv- 
ances are  sparingly  used  in  Canada. 

To  locate  the  beaver  the  trapper  or  hunter  must  look  for  him 
about  streams,  in  timber  that  is  rarely  visited  by  man.  Beaver 
dams  and  their  houses  are  the  true  signs,  and  if  the  trapper  has 
struck  such  a  place  and  found  dams  and  houses  intact,  he  can 
feel  assured  that  the  animal  is  close  by.  He  should  approach 
such  a  place  with  care,  especially  if  in  the  winter  or  spring 
months.  Trappers  who  have  come  in  contact  with  the  animal 
for  years,  state  that  at  certain  periods  of  the  year  when  the 
beaver  is  repairing  the  dam,  building  houses  or  playing,  pickets 
are  put  on  guard  who  immediately  notify  the  remainder  in  case 
of  danger  or  the  approach  of  man.  The  signals  given  by  these 
pickets  are  well  understood  by  the  remaining  family.  Such  a 
signal  consists  of  the  animals  giving  a  peculiar  sound  from  their 
mouth,  a  sharp  splash  with  their  tail  and  feet,  and  immediate 
departure  for  their  abode.  On  hearing  such  a  signal  all  others 
will  instantly  take  to  the  water  and  disappear.  Those  that  hap- 
pen to  be  on  land  will  leave  everything  and  make  for  the  water 
into  which  they  dive  and  swim  rapidly  to  their  respective  abodes. 
In  a  few  moments  thereafter  everything  is  still,  and  one  not 
familiar  with  such  signals,  would  be  astonished  to  find  no  sign 
of  life. 


BEAVER  SKINS 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


217 


Some  trappers  have  been  in  the  habit  of  spearing  beavers 
while  in  their  home.  Others  cautiously  set  steel  traps  at  such 
points  where  the  beaver  is  known  to  come  from  the  water.  The 
usual  method  is  to  set  the  steel  trap  in  three  to  four  inches  of 
water  at  such  places  where  the  beaver  comes  out  or  enters  the 
river.  Cotton  or  other  soft  material  should  be  placed  below  the 
pan  and  the  entire  trap  be  covered  with  sand  or  earth.  The  trap- 
per must  not  leave  any  footprints,  either  upon  the  land  or  in  the 
water,  and  to  obliterate  them  a  quantity  of  brush  is  tied  together 
and  such  places  where  the  prints  appear  are  brushed  over.  After 
this  operation  the  trapper  usually  takes  his  hat  or  cap  and  throws 
a  quantity  of  water  along  the  shore,  so  as  to  thoroughly  drench 
the  surroundings,  which  has  a  tendency  to  eradicate  the  human 
tracks  as  well  as  to  eliminate  the  scent  or  odor  of  the  trapper. 

Elsewhere  in  this  book  will  be  found  original  articles  from 
trappers,  which  are  very  interesting  and  should  be  digested  by 
those  interested  in  hunting  or  trapping  the  beaver.  The  cas- 
toriums  should  be  saved,  a^  they  are  adapted  not  only  for  attract- 
ing the  beaver,  but  in  fact,  nearly  all  other  animals  like  the  smell 
of  castorium  or  beaver  medicine  as  some  call  it.  The  manner 
of  making  this  medicine  will  be  found  under  ''Decoy  and  Trap- 
pers' Secrets.'' 

Sliding  poles  should  be  used,  unless  one  can  make  good  use 
of  a  limb  from  a  nearby  tree  or  a  young  tree  itself  as  a  spring 
pole.  The  sliding  pole,  however,  is  the  best,  as  the  animal  will 
drown  in  a  short  time,  and  be  kept  away  from  land  animals.  If 
a  sliding  pole  is  used,  the  pole  should  be  dry,  not  green,  and  the 
bark  should  be  first  removed,  otherwise  the  beaver  is  likely  to 
carry  the  pole  away  for  food  purposes. 


Russian  Sable  Skin 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  219 


TRAPPING  THE  OTTER. 

This  aquatic  animal  is  probably  more  hunted  than  any  land  or 
aquatic  animal,  due  to  the  high  price  paid  for  their  skins.  The 
otter  is  found  in  many  states  and  prefers  rivers  to  lakes.  Their 
homes  are  made  along  river  banks  and  the  animal  makes  a  prac- 
tice of  migrating  from  one  stream  to  another.  As  the 
mother  retains  the  young  for  a  period  of  two  to  three  years,  it 
is  common  for  trappers  to  see  as  many  as  8  or  to  otters  in  one 
vicinity.  Their  rambling  and  gregarious  habits  are  especially 
noteworthy  when  migrating  from  one  stream  to  another,  one 
following  the  other  in  a  path,  and  sometimes  a  line  of  march 
covers  many  miles,  one  following  the  other  at  a  distance  of  5  to 
20  yards.  It  is  remarkable  that  the  otter  is  able  to  choose  the 
shortest  line  in  his  travels. 

About  their  playgrounds,  if  the  banks  are  8  to  12  feet  high, 
one  will  see  the  so-called  otter-slides,  and  it  is  generally  about 
these  places  that  the  trapper  sets  his  traps ;  the  latter  should  be 
attached  to  sliding  or  spring-poles.  These  slides  are  usually 
between  some  trees  or  bushes  giving  protection  from  the  sun. 
The  practice  of  otters  is  never  to  walk  on  or  near  these  slides 
when  ascending  the  shores,  but  usually  choose  a  place  where  the 
bank  has  a  gradual  elevation  on  which  to  ascend,  and  thus  walk 
to  the  sHde.  The  otter  will  usually  rest  a  few  minutes  before 
descending,  and  many  trappers  place  their  steel  traps  on  the  high- 
est elevation  of  these  slides,  and  as  the  otter  gets  into  position, 
becomes  the  victim.  Such  traps  should  be  attached  to  strong 
spring-poles.  The  otter  will  usually  slide  down  into  the  water 
with  all  available  force  and  swim  under  water  for  a  considerable 
distance,  only  to  regain  the  shore  and  repeat  the  former  opera- 
tion of  descending  the  slide  for  another  plunge. 

Trappers  should  not  be  disappointed  in  case  otters  do  not 
make  their  daily  appearance  about  the  slides,  for  possibly  they 
have  migrated  to  other  streams  and  will  return  in  the  course  of 
five  to  ten  days.  These  excursions  are  made  quite  often,  both 
during  the  summer  and  winter. 

There  are  many  ways  ^to  trap  or  capture  them,  and  as  they 
have  subterranean  passages,  the  entrance  usually  being  15  to  20 
inches  below  the  water  level,  traps  should  be  set  there.  Many 
trappers  use  claw-traps,  which  are  set  in  center  of  slides,  but 
the  most  experienced  trappers  will  set  their  traps  at  places  where 
the  otter  usually  starts  out  of  the  water  and  makes  for  the  slide. 
The  usual  method  is  to  set  steel  traps,  one  on  each  side  of  the 
path,  not  in  the  center ;  thus  the  otter,  in  passing  upwards,  will 
most  likely  be  caught  by  the  right  or  left  foot,  and  sometimes 
with  both.    Traps  placed  on  the  bottom,  where  the  otter  comes 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


221 


out  of  water,  should  be  attached  to  sliding  poles,  as  the  animal 
should  be  drowned  in  the  quickest  possible  time.  No.  2^,  3  and 
3^  Newhouse  traps,  or  other  makes  similar  in  size,  are  com- 
monly used  for  otters.  All  traps  should  be  buried  in  the  usual 
manner,  some  cotton,  leaves  or  similar  substance  should  be  placed 
under  the  pan. 

It  is  more  difficult  to  set  traps  beneath  the  ice,  but  by  follow- 
ing closely  this  method  one  should  be  successful.  If  the  trap 
is  to  be  set  about  or  in  airholes,  attach  the  chain  to  a  long  pole, 
which  should  necessarily  stick  out  three  or  four  feet  over  the  ice, 
have  one  end  securely  driven  in  on  the  bottom.  The  chain  can 
be  attached  by  wire  or  by  inserting  the  pole  through  the  ring 
before  it  is  driven  into  the  ground.  To  prevent  the  chain  from 
slipping  ofif  from  either  end,  one  should  drive  a  wooden  pin 
through  the  pole,  the  chain  should  traverse  the  entire  length  of  the 
pole  loosely.  A  suitable  platform  should  be  made  on  which  trap 
is  to  be  set,  and  covered  over  with  evergreens ;  this  shelf  or  plat- 
form should  be  securely  fastened  to  the  pole  so  that  the  trap  when 
set  is  6  to  10  inches  below  the  ice.  Some  trappers  wind  the 
entire  jaws  of  the  traps  with  evergreens,  also  the  springs ; 
thus,  when  the  otter  comes  to  the  hole  to  obtain  a  fresh 
supply  of  air,  its  front  feet  will  rest  on  the  trap,  and  if  the  latter 
is  placed  correctly,  the  animal  will  become  a  victim.  The 
otter,  after  struggling  under  water  for  a  reasonable  length  of 
time,  will  drown. 

The  pole  should  naturally  be  driven  very  securely  into  the 
ground,  and  it  is  a  good  policy  to  attach  the  outer  end  of  the 
pole  to  a  rope  or  wire ;  thus,  should  the  pole  become  disengaged 
from  the  bottom,  the  trapper  will  be  able  to  pull  up  the  pole  by 
the  string,  and  naturally  the  victim  will  come  along. 

As  this  animal  possesses  an  unusually  fine  sense  of  smell,  it 
is  seldom  indeed  that  a  trapper  is  able  to  observe  the  otter  at 
play  or  even  see  it  plunge  into  the  water,  but  if  one  is  fortunate 
to  gain  the  desired  location,  he  will  naturally  see  the  otter  come 
out  of  the  water,  ascend  the  bank,  pass  to  the  slide,  and  then 
with  all  its  might  and  force  plunge  into  the  water,  and  while 
under  water  will  swim  considerable  distances,  its  route  being 
noticed  by  the  air-bubbles. 

Steel  traps  should  be  set  under  water  or  under  the  ice  near 
the  shore  where  the  depth  does  not  exceed  two  feet.  The  usual 
custom  is  to  set  the  traps  in  a  nest  of  three  to  four.  It  is  always 
a  good  policy  to  set  traps  below  the  airholes,  providing  the  depth 
of  water  under  the  ice  is  from  one  to  three  feet ;  in  either  case, 
the  traps  should  be  covered  with  evergreens  and  attached  to  a 
sliding  pole. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  223 


A  certain  Wisconsin  trapper,  during  the  '70's,  was  very  suc- 
cessful in  catching  otters  by  nesting  his  traps  about  the  airholes, 
he  attached  a  stone  weighing  6  to  8  pounds  to  each  trap,  also  a 
15  ft.  long  wire  to  some  stationary  object  upon  the  ice.  The  otter 
having  sprung  a  trap,  would  drag  trap  and  stone  away  from  the 
air-hole  as  far  as  wire  permitted,  and  shortly  drown.  The  other 
traps  would  remain  intact.  The  trapper,  upon  finding  a  trap  dis- 
arranged, would  pull  that  particular  wire,  thus  bringing  the  trap, 
stone  and  otter  to  the  surface.  By  the  use  of  this  method  he 
caught  as  many  as  three  otters  in  one  day. 

Hudson  Bay  trappers  prefer  to  set  their  traps  under  water, 
and  visit  them  in  a  boat. 

A  certain  half-breed  informed  the  writer  that  he  caught  many 
otters  with  snares.  The  latter  were  set  about  the  inner  edges 
of  the  air-hole,  just  one  to  two  inches  below  the  ice,  being  held 
in  place  by  thin  cords  weighted  down,  also  by  sticks  driven  in 
the  ice.  Such  snares  should  be  attached  to  a  stone,  probably 
weighing  eight  to  twelve  pounds,  and  sufficient  to  hold  and  drown 
the  animal.  In  case  the  water  is  too  shallow,  a  spring  pole 
should  be  used.  If  one  is  unable  to  secure  a  proper  spring  poie 
suggest  the  use  of  a  weighted  pole ;  see  illustration  elsewhere. 
Heavy  copper  or  brass  wire  should  be  used  in  all  instances,  as 
otters  have  been  known  to  become  caught  in  such  snares  about 
the  body,  just  below  the  forefeet,  therefore  it  takes  a  strong  wire 
and  proper  weight  to  prevent  escape. 

In  the  springtime,  when  the  ice  is  gone,  otters  can  be  chased 
with  dogs,  especially  where  more  than  one  otter  is  seen.  The 
usual  custom  is  to  place  heavy  seines  across  the  stream  pre- 
venting escape  from  ascending  or  descending  the  river,  and 
when  the  otter  rises  to  obtain  air  about  the  seine,  they  should  be 
killed  by  using  a  rifle. 

Mr.  Richter  relates  that  in  Schottland  dogs  were  used  to 
drive  otters  for  long  distances.  A  seine  is  similarly  stretched 
across  the  river,  and  when  the  dogs  bring  otters,  up  or  down 
stream,  as  the  case  may  be,  another .  seine  is  stretched  to  pre- 
vent escape,  thus  hemming  the  animals  with  the  dogs  between 
two  seines.  Men  with  spears  or  rifles  dispatch  the  otters  in 
quick  succession.  The  dead  bodies  cannot  escape  by  floating, 
but  usually  the  do-^s  are  trained  to  dive  and  bring  the  bodies 
out  should  they  fail  to  appear  on  top  the  water. 

During  the  winter  time,  if  the  paths  of  otters  are  discovered, 
it  is  advisable  to  set  a  bunch  of  traps  on  the  paths,  as  the  prob- 
abilities are  the  otters  will  come  back  the  same  way,  and  if  the 
traps  are  properly  set — that  is,  the  pan  about  two  inches  from 
center  of  paths,  most  likely  one  or  two  animals  will  be  secured. 
Spring  or  weighted  poles  should  be  used. 


224         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


HOW  THE  SEA  OTTER  IS  CAPTURED. 

Peculiar  methods  are  adapted  to  capturing  this  animal,  and 
in  the  attempt  many  hunters  lost  their  lives,  but  seemingly  others 
are  ready  to  assume  the  unfinished  work  of  the  former. 

Capturing  this  otter  in  mid-sea  is  out  of  the  question,  and 
as  they  possess  gregarious  and  rambling  habits,  hunters  usually 
await  the  opportime  time,  when  the  ramblers  are  about  one  or 
two  miles  from  the  shore,  as  many  as  15  to  20  boats,  each  con- 
taining two  or  three  men,  one  being  provided  with  a  rifle,  the 
other  with  a  spear  or  harpoon,  and  the  third  generally  manag- 
ing the  boat.  The  boats  usually  go  out  in  rows,  following  one 
after  another,  stretched  out  as  long  as  a  mile.  If  any  one  sees 
an  otter  the  proper  signal  is  given  and  a  circle  about  the  animal 
is  formeS ;  naturally  the  otter  will  disappear,  but  on  its  next 
arise  the  riflemen  will  discharge  their  rifles,  so  the  bullets  will 
strike  10  to  25  feet  from  the  animal,  thus  preventing  the  latter 
from  obtaining  fresh  supply  of  air.  On  its  second  descent  one  or 
two  of  the  boats  leave  the  circle,  these  generally  contain  the  best 
harpoonists.  All  are  still  awaiting  the  next  arise  of  the  animal 
when  he  is  promptly  disturbed  and  prevented  from  breathing  in  a 
fresh  supply  of  air,  either  by  the  discharge  of  the  rifles  or  by 
splashes  of  the  oars.  If  not  too  far,  the  harpoonists  will  attempt 
to  spear,  but  if  unsuccessful  the  former  method  of  preventing  the 
animal  from  obtaining  air  will  finally  triumph.  If  not  killed 
by  the  harpoonists  the  otter  will  drown,  due  to  lack  of  fresh  air. 
It  often  requires  two  to  three  hours  to  capture  one  animal. 

It  is  very  seldom,  in  fact,  extremely  so,  when  anyone  can 
approach  this  animal  in  a  boat  while  the  latter  is  on  the  shore 
and  a  target  for  the  hunter.  Their  sense  of  smell,  sight  and 
hearing  is  very  fine. 

During  stormy  weather  hunters  attempt  to  capture  the  otter 
on  the  windward  side  of  the  ocean,  as  the  animal,  during  such 
storms,  generally  seeks  shelter  on  the  shore,  and  sometimes 
travels  quite  a  distance  from  the  water.  The  hunter  is  able  to 
approach  the  otter  unusually  close,  as  the  noise  of  the  wind  and 
the  restless  waves  deafen  all  possible  sound  of  their  approach, 
or  even  the  discharge  of  the  rifle,  should  the  aim  be  poor,  is 
unheard  or  unnoticed. 

On  the  Asian  coast,  as  related  by  Steller,  as  many  as  75  otters 
were  killed  on  one  occasion.  The  otters,  in  this  instance, 
reached  shelter  during  a  furious  storm  by  landing  on  the  shore. 
A  number  of  hunters  provided  with  clubs  chased  them  further 
inland,  and  when  escape  was  made  less  possible  a  number  of 
them  preceded  and  clubbed  the  otters  to  death,  the  remaining 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  225 


guarding  the  outward  passage.  While  the  otter  is  generally 
considered  dangerous,  these  men  dispatched  them  with  remark- 
able ease;  a  single,  stout  blow  on  the  forehead  caused  the  otter 
to  place  the  two  forepaws  over  the  head,  and  another  soon  puts 
them  out  of  misery. 

The  use  of  steel  traps  is  little  resorted  to,  as  the  sections  of 
the  coast  which  the  otters  frequent  is  generally  uninhabited, 
therefore  would  be  unprofitable,  especially  as  the  landing  of  the 
animals  is  an  uncertainty,  both  as  to  time  and  place. 

Mr.  Anderson,  an  experienced  seal  hunter,  states  that  the 
reason  such  a  small  number  of  sea  otters  are  killed  is  because 
their  habits,  as  to  time  and  place  of  landing  is  uncertain,  also 
the  number  of  the  animals  is  insignificant  as  compared  with  the 
seals. 


CARIBOU 


Northern  A  3UU  MQOg^  From  a 

Minnesota  Photograpli 


TRAPPERS*  SECRETS. 


How  to  Prepare  and  Use  Decoys,  Poison,  Bait, 
Scent,  Lure,  Etc. 

NOTES  ABOUT  TRAPPING. 

The  trapper  or  hunter  who  has  made  a  study  of  the  habits 
of  fur-bearing  animals  is  the  one  who  will  succeed.  He  knows 
their  habits,  their  run-ways,  distinguishes  their  tracks,  knows 
where  to  look  for  mink,  marten,  raccoon,  wolves,  foxes,  otter 
and  other  animals,  and  naturally  places  the  right-sized  trap,  the 
proper  spring  or  sliding  pole,  the  proper  size  clog  or  drag,  the 
necessary  weight  for  deadfalls,  and  last  but  not  least,  knows  the 
right  time  to  capture  the  animals. 

Keep  your  eyes  peeled,  ears  open,  make  least  possible  noise, 
be  always  prepared  to  use  your  rifle  at  a  moment's  notice,  keep 
cool,  don't  get  excited,  examine  where  you  go,  note  surround- 
ings, act  promptly  but  not  without  deliberation,  provide  your- 
self with  necessary  clothing  and  food,  don't  get  in  too  much  of 
a  hurry,  and  remember  above  all  that  your  health  is  better  than 
your  wealth,  and  treat  your  brother  hunter  or  trapper  as  you 
would  have  him  treat  you. 

Be  on  the  lookout  for  signs  of  game,  ascertain  cause  of 
flight  of  birds,  note  sudden  noise  or  disturbances,  and  when  you 
follow  animals  do  so  against  the  wind  if  possible. 

Ascertain  where  game  frequents,  follow  tracks,  as  they  are 
likely  to  lead  to  some  den  or  watering  place,  and  note  carefully 
signs  of  a  previous  struggle  or  feeding  place.  By  all  means 
convince  yourself  what  animal  you  are  following.  This  you 
can  do  in  many  ways ;  size  of  tracks  and  their  nature,  length  of 
steps,  object  of  animal,  location  of  its  travels,  size  and  quantity 
of  its  manure,  size  of  den,  whether  it  can  climb  trees,  also  if 
dens  are  visited  look  for  hairs  on  sides.  After  you  have  estab- 
lished the  kind  of  animal  and  know  its  habits,  it  is  an  easy 
matter  to  set  your  traps.  Keep  in  mind  that  certain  animals 
seldom  go  over  the  same  route  unless  something  is  there  to 
attract  them.  Feeding  places  are  visited  tens  and  hundreds  of 
times,  if  not  by  the  same,  by  other  animals  possessing  carniv- 
orous habits.  If  many  tracks  are  visible  and  you  are  unable  to 
set  your  traps  at  a  suitable  location,  make  some  artificial  abode, 
or  set  in  one  of  the  paths,  drag  bait  or  previously  captured  game 
in  various  directions  leading  to  concealed  traps,  and  invariably 
leave  bait  close  to  traps.  By  all  means  leave  the  surroundings 
in  a  natural  state  and  visit  your  traps  as  often  as  possible,  and 
if  unmolested  do  not  approach  them. 


228 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


SOME  RULES  AND  REGULATIONS  ON  TRAPPING. 

Prepare  traps,  decoys,  stretchers,  and  pick  out  trapping 
grounds  one  to  three  months  in  advance. 

Start  to  trap  when  the  weather  is  real  cold — never  before 
November — better  wait  until  December. 

Stop  trapping  in  the  spring  as  soon  as  the  skins  begin  to 
get  red,  and  the  fur  thin,  pale  and  shedding.  The  skin  is  gen- 
erally thick  when  the  fur  is  thin. 

Remove  the  skin  promptly  from  the  animal  unless  the  car- 
cass is  found  in  a  frozen  state. 

If  time  permits  educate  fur-bearing  animals  to  visit  places 
where  you  intend  to  place  your  traps. 

Post  yourself  thoroughly  in  manner  of  skinning,  and  how 
skins  should  be  prepared  to  bring  best  prices. 

jf{  ^  jjs  ^  ;|<  j{i 

Don't  try  to  fool  buyers  by  overstretching  a  skin.  They 
know  their  business  and  are  not  blind,  besides  overstretching 
hurts  the  skin. 

Keep  furs  away  from  artificial  heat  and  from  the  sun. 
Rapid  drying  by  the  stove  or  sun  is  not  desirable,  and  tends  to 
curl  tips.    Hang  furs  in  a  cool  and  shady  place. 

Do  not  cut  off  ears,  nose,  or  mutilate  the  skin,  and  if  acci- 
dentally cut,  sew  portions  together  before  drying  in  Indian  style. 

Skunk,  opossum,  raccoon,  mink,  and  similar  animals  can  be 
smoked  out  of  their  abode  by  the  use  of  sulphur  or  brimstone. 

^  ^  >j«  jjc  ^ 

Never  dry  skins  by  the  fire  or  close  to  artificial  heat,  neither 
expose  them  to  the  sun. 

Never  make  a  practice  of  handling  traps  with  the  bare  hands, 
especially  when  about  to  set  them. 

Scrape  all  fat  and  meat  off  the  skin  before  drying.  Skins 
should  be  stretched  shortly  after  being  scraped  and  while  yet  very 
green.  Give  the  skins  as  much  as  possible  their  natural  size  and 
do  not  overstretch  any  particular  part. 

^  5jc  *  H« 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Ouide,  229 


Do  not  attempt  to  set  large  traps  without  two  clamps;  it 
can  be  done  but  is  a  foolish  piece  of  business  for  a  trapper  to 
attempt,  especially  if  alone. 

Never  go  it  alone,  especially  if  you  expect  to  be  away  one  or 
more  weeks.  Share  your  luck  and  experience  with  a  good  trap- 
per.   A  good  dog  is  the  next  best  companion. 


Furs  caught  in  season,  properly  handled,  and  marketed  during 
the  months  of  December,  January,  February  and  March  will 
command  best  prices. 

DECOYS  AND  POISONS. 


(Trappers'  Secrets.) 

The  list  below  gives  names  of  various  oils — natural  and 
artificial — used  by  hunters  and  trappers.  Elsewhere  in  this  book 
will  be  found  how  the  oil  is  used,  when  and  where  applied. 

Artificial  Oils. 


Oil  of  Fenugreek. 
Oil  of  Asafetida. 
Oil  of  Valerian. 
Oil  of  Anise. 


Oil  of  Amber. 
Oil  of  Lavender. 
Oil  of  Rhodium. 
Oil  of  Cumin. 


Natural  Musk. 

Oil  of  Beaver  from  Beaver.      Oil  of  Mink  from  Mink. 
Oil  of  Otter  from  Otter.  Oil  of  Musk  from  Muskrats. 


Fish  Oil. 

This  preparation  is  made  by  cutting  up  various  sizes  and 
kinds  of  fish  into  small  pieces,  placing  into  a  bottle  and  ex- 
posing same  to  the  sun,  loosely  corked.  In  about  3  to  4  weeks 
of  continued  exposure  the  contents  should  be  pressed  through 
a  sieve,  separating  the  oil,  which  should  be  run  into  a  bottle 
having  a  small  neck.    The  smaller  the  fishes  the  better  the  oil. 

If  fish  oil  is  unobtainable  and  the  trapper  should  run  out  of 
this  preparation,  purchase  sardines  and  use  them  as  bait,  or 
make  oil  therefrom.  A  small  ten  cent  box  will  go  quite  a  ways. 
Salmon  is  also  very  good. 


230 


Andersch  Bros/  Sunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


Matrix  and  Urine  from  Animals. 

Matrix  and  urine  from  the  female  fox,  wolf  and  dog  during 
period  of  coition  makes  an  excellent  bait  for  wild  animals  of 
the  dog  family.  This  preparation  in  order  to  retain  the  odor 
should  be  tightly  corked  up  and  used  similarly  to  other  artificial 
and  natural  oils, 

Matrix  from  the  female  mink  or  marten  taken  from  the  ani- 
mal during  the  copulative  period  is  probably  the  best  attraction 
for  the  male  species.  Capture  one  or  more  females,  dip  or  hold 
rear  parts  into  sweet  oil  or  alcohol,  later  kill  the  animal,  cut 
out  the  sexual  parts,  place  all  into  a  bottle  which  cork  tightly. 
Smear  beyond  or  about  the  traps. 


Sugar  of  Lead. 


Poison. 

Strychnine. 

Poisoned  Eggs. 


Arsenic. 


To  kill  animals  that  frequent  the  henroost  to  devour  eggs, 
also  those  that  rob  the  nests  of  wild  birds,  as  well  as  for  baiting 
traps,  snares,  etc.,  procure  one  or  more  eggs  and  bore  a  small 
hole  with  a  wire  or  gimlet  in  one  end,  into  which  insert  strych- 
nine, and  paste  hole  over  with  sticking  plaster,  paper  or  egg 
shell. 

Some  animals  refuse  poisoned  meat  and  vegetables,  neither 
can  they  be  caught  as  promptly  as  desired  with  traps,  snares 
and  other  contrivances,  and  their  suspicion  is  seldom  aroused  if 
these  prepared  eggs  are  laid  in  some  conspicuous  place,  in  a 
nest — natural  or  artificial — or  in  their  paths,  under  bushes,  out- 
houses, barns,  and,  in  fact,  any  place  where  these  animals  fre- 
quent. Trappers  often  place  these  poisoned  eggs  under  a  dead 
chicken,  other  times  in  nests  of  wild  birds.  Farmers  who  are 
desirous  of  catching  their  neighbor's  dog  in  their  chicken  coop 
can  apply  this  method  of  stopping  the  thief  and  prevent  a  revisit. 

Capsules. 

Equal  parts  of  the  following  poisons  in  2  to  3  grain  cap- 
sules for  skunk,  mink  and  small  animals,  and  4  to  5  grain  cap- 
sules for  wolf,  fox  and  similar  sized  beasts  are  used  with  success 
by  leading  trappers.    Insert  poison  into  meat,  also  vegetables : 

One-half  of  powdered  arsenic.    One-half  of  carbolic  crystals. 


Andersch  Sros/  Hunters  and  l^rappers  Ouide.  2ii 
Decoy. 

Dung  of  any  species,  also  their  urine  will  attract  like  kind. 

Place  urine  and  dung  in  a  bottle,  cork  tightly  and  use  small 
quantity  at  each  setting.  This  decoy  is  especially  good  during 
the  rutting  season. 

Fox  and  Wolf  Decoy. 

3  oz.  Urine  of  a  dog,  fox  or  wolf  (female  preferred). 
I  oz.    Oil  of  valerian. 

Mix  well,  use  5  to  10  drops  on  stake,  stump  of  tree  or  pro- 
truding rock.  Fox,  wolf,  in  fact  all  animals  of  the  dog  kind, 
are  attracted  by  this  decoy  and  will  urinate.  Set  traps  12  to 
14  inches  from  trunk  of  tree.  Bury  and  cover  traps  in  the 
usual  way. 

Mink  Decoy. 

>4  Musk  of  Mink.  Musk  of  Muskrat. 

Matrix  of  Mink.  >4  Oil  of  Cumin. 

Mix  well.  If  too  thick  add  urine  of  the  female  mink  or  alco- 
hol.   Keep  corked.    Use  few  drops. 

Coyote  or  Fox  Bait. 

I  oz.  oil  of  cumin ;  1 

1  oz.  oil  of  rhodium ; 

J/2  oz.  asafetida  (grated)  : 

Wart  of  horse,  size  of  hickory  nut  (grated). 

Alcohol  to  cut  and  make  compound  to  consistency  of  dough. 
Place  in  wide  necked  bottle,  6  oz.  or  larger;  keep  corked.  Use 
in  two  or  three  weeks.  Smear  small  quantity  close  to  traps 
on  some  stick  or  bush. 

To  Overcome  Smell  of  Iron. 

To  overcome  the  smell  of  iron  as  well  as  human  scent,  nothing 
is  better  than  a  mixture  or  compound  made  out  of  catnip.  Mink, 
fox  and  nearly  all  other  animals  are  familiar  with  the  peculiar 
catnip  odor;  and  if  this  compound  is  smeared  over  the  traps 
and  hands,  all  strange  odors  are  overcome.  The  animals,  being 
familiar  with  the  odor  are  not  suspicious. 

Procure  a  quantity  of  catnip  and  mash  it  between  stones  or 
in  some  old  mill  and  add  enough  liquid  to  make  a  thick  paste. 
Place  this  into  a  screw  top  can  or  bottle,  use  when  you  want  it. 

Mink  Scent. 

^  oz.  essence  of  peppermint. 

2  oz.  fish  oil. 
2  oz.  honey. 


232         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


Mink  Bait. 

%  part  musk  of  muskrat,  }i  part  musk  of  mink,  J4  part  alco- 
hol.   Keep  corked  up  in  warm  place  ten  days  before  using. 

Fox  Musk. 

Musk  taken  from  the  glandal  sac  of  the  fox  is  excellent 
for  attracting  like  species.  Use  this  musk  as  you  would  the 
musk  of  beaver,  muskrat  and  other  natural  decoys.  It  is  an 
undisputed  secret  held  sacred  by  old  trappers  that  natural  musk 
will  attract  its  own  kind  of  animals  quicker  and  from  a  greater 
distance  than  any  other  preparation.  It  is  also  necessary  to  use 
the  utmost  care  in  trapping  for  sly  Mr.  Fox. 

Oil  of  Otter  (Musk). 

This  is  obtained  from  the  animal  by  extracting  the  substance 
from  the  two  small  glands  on  the  belly  of  both  sexes,  often  called 
oil  stones.  This  natural  oil  is  used  by  experienced  trappers  with 
splendid  results  in  attracting  these  species. 

Manure  or  Dung  Bait. 

Obtain  manure  or  urine  of  the  animal  that  you  seek  to  cap- 
ture and  if  this  is  unobtainable,  procure  the  droppings  of  the 
domestic  dog,  but  what  is  still  better,  from  tame  foxes  or  wolves. 
Droppings  from  the  sheep  are  also  handy  and  of  good  avail. 

Musk  of  Beaver  or  Beaver  Medicine. 

(The  following  four  formulas  are  natural  baits  and  will  fool 
the  oldest  beaver  and  other  animals.)  Make  cold  and  preserve 
in  a  large-neck  bottle. 

(1)  Castors  of  one  beaver, 
20  drops  oil  of  cinnamon, 
ID  drops  oil  of  anise. 

Urine  of  beaver  sufficient  to  make  the  consistency  of 
mush. 

(2)  Castors  of  one  beaver, 

7  drops  oil  of  sassafras, 
7  drops  oil  of  anise, 
10  drops  oil  from  the  oil  stone. 

(3)  Castors  of  one  beaver, 
ID  drops  Jamaica  rum, 

5  drops  oil  of  anise, 
5  drops  oil  of  cloves, 
5  drops  oil  of  sassafras, 
5  drops  oil  of  rhodium, 

(4)  Castors  of  one  beaver, 

10  drops  oil  from  oil  stone, 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


233 


Urine  of  beaver  sufficient  to  make  all  the  consistency 
of  mush. 

Mink  Scent. 

A  Pennsylvania  trapper  writes  as  follows:  "Take  two  or 
three  scent  bags  found  at  the  root  of  the  mink's  tail  and  place 
them  in  a  3  or  4-ounce  large-necked  bottle,  over  which  pour 
oz.  of  oil  of  anise;  fill  remainder  with  water.  Now  take 
sharp  knife  or  chisel  and  cut  bag  into  as  many  pieces  as  possible. 
Cork  up  and  leave  stand  in  warm  place.  Do  not  permit  it  to 
freeze.  This  is  a  good  scent  for  capturing  mink  and  similar 
animals.  Have  had  best  of  luck  and  can  recommend  it  to  any 
trapper,  and  I  feel  confident  that  he  will  be  successful  in  at- 
tracting mink. 

Mink  Decoy. 

"This  bait  is  especially  adapted  for  the  mink  during  their 
running  season.    It  is  prepared  as  follows: 

"During  the  fall  months,  or  in  fact  any  time  that  I  have 
occasion  to  capture  a  mink,  I  remove  the  animal's  scent  bags, 
which  are  placed  within  a  2  oz.  bottle  into  which  I  pour  i  oz. 
of  alcohol  and  10  drops  of  oil  of  anise.  Cork  and  let  stand  in 
a  warm  place.  Two  scent  bags  to  i  oz.  alcohol  and  10  drops  of 
anise  is  correct;  larger  quantities  in  same  proportion  can  be 
made.'' 

Secret  Method. 

"My  method  and  secret  of  success  is  to  wrap  the  jaws,  springs, 
pan  and  every  portion  of  the  steel  trap  except  the  trigger,  with 
withes  (hemlock  preferred).  Even  the  wire  traps  are  wound 
around  with  these  withes  by  me.  On  the  ends  and  edges  to  hold 
withes  from  coming  off.  I  tie  with  waxed  thread.  This  method 
removes  the  smell  of  iron  and  I  do  not  have  to  cover  up  sets  so 
heavily  with  earth,  as  the  traps  already  resemble  the  surround- 
ings very  much.  Of  course,  I  remove  the  newness  of  my  work 
with  damp  dirt  which  is  rubbed  or  smeared  into  the  covering. 
Probably  if  smeared  with  wax  tallow  and  a  little  castorium,  the 
setting  would  require  no  bait  or  other  decoy,  but  I  have  never 
tried  it. 

Jess  McArthur. 
Natural  Mink  Scent  or  Lure. 

If  one  is  successful  in  capturing  a  female  mink  when  the 
animal  is  in  heat,  do  not  injure  or  kill  her,  especially  if  the  ani- 
mal's scent  to  attract  the  male  to  the  trap  is  desired.  Obtain 
a  pint  of  pure  sweet  oil,  and  dip  her  hind  parts  into  the  oil  and 
hold  her  therein  for  10  or  15  minutes.    Immediately  thereafter 


234         Andersch  Bros/  tlunUrs  and  Trappers  Cfuide, 


place  the  oil  in  a  bottle  which  cork  tightly.  A  few  drops 
sprinkled  on  the  twigs  or  in  the  vicinty  of  traps,  or  place  four 
or  five  drops  on  a  leaf  and  place  it  in  abode  beyond  the  trap  or 
in  a  hollow  log. 

The  trapper  who  favored  us  with  the  above  claims  to  have 
had  success,  and  gives  good  reason  for  believing  that  thisj 
natural  scent  is  much  stronger  than  that  obtained  from  the 
dead  mink.  No  alcohol  is  to  be  added  and  if  the  preparation 
is  to  be  kept  over  the  summer  months,  it  should  be  placed  in 
an  ice  house  and  kept  there,  otherwise  in  the  lowest  possible 
temperature. 

Perhaps  after  obtaining  the  natural  scent  from  the  animal 
in  the  above  method,  it  would  be  advisable  to  kill  the  mink  and 
by  removing  that  portion  of  the  animal  and  placing  it  in  a  bottle 
in  connection  with  alcohol,  one  would  be  able  to  ascertain  more 
positively,  especially  if  used  in  connection  with  the  first  named 
preparation,  as  to  which  is  the  best.  If  the  latter  preparation 
is  to  be  made  place  parts  into  a  wide-necked  bottle,  holding 
three  to  four  ounces,  and  fill  with  alcohol. 

Fred  O'Flynn. 

My  Favorite  Fox  Scent  and  Bait. 

'T  prefer  skunk,  woodchuck  or  muskrat  for  bait.  These  I 
cut  into  small  pieces  about  as  large  as  an  egg.  This  preparation 
is  made  during  the  summer  months,  placed  in  a  clean  screw-top 
can  and  exposed  to  the  sun  so  as  to  become  tainted.  The  scent 
that  I  use  is  made  out  of  pure  skunk  glands,  pure  strained  honey 
(not  sugar-fed  honey,  but  clover  and  flower  honey.)  This  scent 
is  especially  good  for  the  fall  months.  During  the  winter  months 
I  obtain  the  matrix  from  a  female  fox  taken  during  the  animal's 
running  season,  and  in  addition  to  this  Ltake  the  musk  of  two 
or  three  muskrats  and  a  small  quantity  of  pure  strained  honey. 
Mix  these  well  together  and  I  assure  you  that  same  will  attract 
the  male  fox  and  is  probably  the  strongest  scent  in  existence. 
I  have  also  had  good  success  in  trapping  foxes  with  scent  made 
out  of  frog  eggs ;  mix  with  the  musk  of  muskrats  and  glands  of 
the  skunk.    I  wish  my  brother  trappers  best  success." 

G.  W.  O. 

How  to  Make  Decoy  to  Capture  Foxes,  Wild  Cats  and  Other 

Animals. 

Mr.  J.  H.  Van  Ness,  a  Michigan  trapper,  gives  us  the 
following  secret  and  claims  to  have  been  very  successful  when- 
ever the  bait  or  decoy  as  stated  below  is  used : 

^^Remove  from  the  legs  of  horses  a  piece  of  cork.  A  piece 
the  size  of  an  ordinary  hickory-nut  is  sufficient  to  make  one 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide,  235 


pint.  Cut  or  shave  this  piece  of  cork  into  small  shavings  and 
put  same  into  a  pint  of  lard,  also  place  a  piece  of  asafetida  as 
large  as  a  bean  therein,  and  cook  these  three  articles  together. 
Let  them  boil  for  several  hours  over  a  slow  fire.  Stir  contin- 
ually and  keep  shavings  from  settling.  A  peculiar,  strong  odor 
will  arise  just  as  soon  as  boiling  begins;  the  women  folks  will 
leave  the  room  and  the  dog  and  cat  will  begin  to  sniff  and  smell. 
After  it  has  boiled  for  two  or  three  hours  remove  from  the 
stove  and  permit  to  cool. 

''Smear  this  preparation  above  or  about  the  traps,  but  never 
upon  them.  The  fox,  wild  cat,  and  even  the  domestic  dog  as 
well  as  cat,  is  likely  to  enter  the  trap.  This  bait  will  attract 
these  animals  from  long  distances.  It  is  very  powerful,  and, 
as  aforesaid,  has  always  been  very  successful. 

'T  usually  wear  gloves  in  handling  traps  preparatory  to  set- 
ting them,  also  boil  my  traps  or  bury  them  for  a  few  days  in 
order  to  remove  the  smell  of  iron.'' 

We  are  indebted  to  Mr.  C.  A.  Beeh,  an  Iowa  trapper,  for 
the  following  decoy  that  he  claims  to  have  used  and  continues 
to  use  for  trapping  mink,  wolf,  fox,  skunk  and  other  carnivor- 
ous animals.  The  following  formula  is  based  on  a  pint  of 
preparation : 

''Take  a  pint  fruit  jar  and  fill  one-third  full  with  blood. 
Blood  from  domestic  animals  will  do,  especially  from  calf,  dog 
or  hog.  Add  the  following :  2  teaspoonfuls  or  2  fluid  drahms 
oil  of  cinnamon ;  2  teaspoonfuls  of  powdered  asafetida ;  2  tea- 
spoonfuls  oil  of  cloves ;  grind,  a  nutmeg  or  pound  it  between 
rocks  so  that  it  is  very  fine,  and  place  in  the  mixture;  fill  the 
remaining  part  of  the  bottle  with  alcohol  or  whiskey;  mix 
thoroughly.  Boiling  is  unnecessary.  Keep  bottle  corked  up  for 
at  least  5  to  10  days  and  then  run  through  a  cloth  or  thin  sieve. 
After  it  is  strained,  return  the  liquid  in  any  kind  of  bottle  and 
throw  away  the  thick  stuff.  Before  throwing  away  the  thick 
stuff  be  sure  and  squeeze  all  the  liquid  therefrom. 

"This  preparation  should  be  used  in  similar  manner  to  other 
good  preparations  by  smearing  above  or  about  the  traps.  Being 
very  powerful,  it  will  attract  animals  for  a  great  distance.'' 

Honey-Bait. 

This  bait  is  commonly  used  for  bears.  Save  Mr.  Bear  the 
trouble  of  climbing  trees  and  give  him  his  heart's  delight.  Place 
this  bait  near  the  steel  trap,  snare  or  deadfall,  or  within  and 
about  the  dugout.  Take  a  quantity  of  honey,  place  in  a  vessel, 
add  one-tenth  part  of  beeswax  and  a  few  drops  oil  of  anise. 
Place  pan  upon  a  stove  and  allow  to  come  to  a  boil.    Stir  fre- 


236 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


quently  to  prevent  burning  or  becoming  settled.  This  prepara- 
tion, after  it  is  cold,  can  be  used  in  various  ways.  Some  trap- 
pers cut  up  a  dried  sponge,  attaching  each  small  piece  to  a  wire 
or  string  and  permitting  the  sponge  to  become  soaked  with  the 
preparation.  The  object  of  attaching  the  wire  or  string  is  that 
the  sponge  may  be  conveniently  tied  to  trap  or  thereabouts. 
Never  smear  traps  with  this  preparation,  unless  you  want  to 
catch  the  bear  by  the  head,  and  that  certainly  is  not  desired. 
If  traps  are  set  close  to  brush,  smear  the  bait  on  latter,  about 
four  to  five  feet  above  the  ground. 

How  to  Kill  Wolves  and  Foxes  with  Poison. 

In  the  Dakotas,  Montana,  Wyoming,  Colorado,  Idaho, 
western  and  southwestern  states  in  general  where  wolves  are 
still  in  large  numbers  and  often  roam  in  herds,  and  where  hun- 
dreds of  cattle,  sheep,  colts,  and  other  domestic  as  well  as  wild 
animals  are  annually  killed  by  the  wolf,  it  is  the  prevailing 
custom  that  an  entire  dead  carcass  be  poisoned.  Usually  the 
carcass  is  dragged  out  upon  the  open  prairie  on  some  high  knoll 
or  hill.  Thirty  to  fifty  incisions  at  various  places  on  the  body 
are  made  with  a  knife  into  which  pure  strychnine  is  inserted. 
It  takes  a  large  amount  of  stychnine  to  poison  an  entire  carcass, 
so  that  when  wild  beasts  partake  of  a  few  mouthfuls  of  the 
poisoned  meat  sufficient  poison  will  get  into  their  stomachs  to 
produce  death.  It  is  also  advisable  to  cut  off  small  pieces  of 
about  one  inch  square  into  which  a  small  quantity  of  strychnine 
is  placed,  and  the  pieces  strewn  about  the  body.  The  bodies  of 
the  wolf  and  fox  are  usually  found  at  a  distance  of  20  to  40 
rods,  sometimes  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  bait. 

Other  trappers  cut  the  carcass  into  small  pieces  and  in- 
sert strychnine  in  good-sized  quantities  therein,  then  distribute 
the  poisoned  bait  on  the  open  prairie  where  wolves  and  foxes 
are  known  to  run. 

If  strychnine  is  inserted  in  chopped  meat — the  latter  made 
into  round  forms  and  then  permitted  to  freeze — and  strewn 
about,  the  fox  or  wolf  is  very  likely  to  swallow  the  entire  bait, 
resulting  in  almost  immediate  death. 

Trappers  who  are  desirous  of  using  poison  to  affect  the 
death  of  game  generally  procure  rabbits,  birds  and  other  small 
animals  which  they  cut  into  small  pieces.  A  liberal  quantity 
of  strychnine  or  other  poison  is  placed  in  the  middle  portion 
thereof.  The  pieces  need  not  be  large,  usually  one  to  one  and 
a  half  inches  round  or  square.  The  fact  that  bait  smells  strong 
and  rapidly  decays  is  no  great  detriment,  sometimes  the  wild 
beast  will  prefer  these  decayed  pieces  to  fresh  bait.    While  some 


Andersch  Bros.'  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


237 


trappers  insert  the  strychnine  in  capsule  form,  others  believe 
that  strychnine  will  act  more  promptly  and  with  better  results 
if  inserted  in  the  old-fashioned  way.  As  foxes,  wolves  and 
other  animals  are  very  suspicious  they  will  often  water  upon 
the  bait,  other  times  smell  it,  but  generally  when  possessed  with 
severe  hunger  will  partake  of  some — much  to  their  detriment. 
Usually  these  animals  visit  some  knoll,  hill,  or  high  elevation  and 
scrutinize  the  surroundings  with  the  utmost  care.  Therefore, 
if  the  bait  cannot  be  strewn  upon  their  paths,  it  is  advisable 
fo  place  same  on  some  high  elevation  as  above  stated. 

Decoy  for  Wolves. 

If  you  have  tried  everything  and  cannot  get  the  wolf  to  the 
trap,  try  the  following:  Obtain  the  bladder  from  a  dog  or 
wolf  (either  sex)  which  empty  in  a  jug  or  bottle.  If  your 
traps  are  already  prepared  in  the  form  of  a  cluster,  take  a  piece 
of  porous  wood  and  pour  the  contents  of  the  jug  over  it,  saturat- 
ing same  thoroughly.  A  Montana  trapper  assured  us  that  he 
has  succeeded  in  capturing  hundreds  of  wolves  in  his  time. 
After  he  caught  the  first  wolf  he  always  saved  the  water  from 
the  animal  and  used  it  in  his  next  set.  This  same  party  caught 
enough  wolves  to  help  him  pay  off  the  mortgage  on  the  ranch. 
The  bounty  and  the  skin,  not  only  in  Montana,  but  in  other 
states,  amount  to  considerable  money.  This  method  is  certainly 
worth  trying. 

Fox  Bait. 

A  mixture  made  of  the  following  has  been  successfully  used 
by  various  trappers.  Take  all  or  part  of  a  muskrat  carcass 
and  place  within  a  screw-top  jar,  one  holding  two  quarts  pre- 
ferred. Then  take  the  fat  of  the  skunk,  also  the  scent  bags. 
Procure  three  field  mice  and  place  entrails  of  same  within  the 
can.  Screw  lid  on  can,  not  too  tight,  and  place  in  a  pile 
of  heated  manure  and  leave  for  two  or  three  weeks.  This  mix- 
ture should  be  well  stirred  before  it  is  placed  in  the  pile,  but 
thereafter  the  can  should  be  kept  closed  as  much  as  possible. 
When  one  has  occasion  to  use  this  preparation,  take  a  stick  and 
smear  this  within  the  abode  or  at  other  convenient  places  to  which 
the  fox  or  wolf  is  to  be  attracted. 

Mink  Bait. 

Mr.  O.  G.  Wells  states  that  he  ties  a  live  crawfish  with 
thread  to  the  pan  of  trap.  Tie  thread  to  each  arm,  close  to 
the  body,  but  not  in  the  joints.  Then  tie  both  threads  together 
and  fasten  body  to  pan  so  that  the  fish  will  be  able  to  move 
but  not  off  the  pan.    The  trap  should  be  set  in  shallow  water 


238         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


close  to  the  shore,  and  the  bait  should  almost  reach  the  level 
of  the  water.  As  the  mink  travels  along  the  shore  in  search 
of  food  he  will  see  the  bait,  and  in  endeavoring  to  remove  it 
with  his  foot  will  spring  the  trap  and  become  a  victim. 

THE  SLIDING  POLE,  SPRING  POLE,  CLOG,  DRAG;  HOW  TO 
MAKE  AND  USE  THEM.    BY  EXPERIENCED 
TRAPPERS. 

Tu^  or^-  One  of  the  best  methods  employed  to  pre- 
The  oliding  ,  .  ^  .  .,^1 

p^j^  vent  aquatic  annnals  from  escapmg,  either  by 

gnawing  or  twisting  their  feet  ofif,  or  from  being 
devoured  by  other  animals,  is  to  use  a  sliding  chain  or  a  knotted 
rope.    To  use  either  of  them  the  water  must  be  deep. 

The  sliding  pole,  which  is  made  out  of  a  green  sapling, 
securely  fastened  on  shore,  the  smaller  end  being  in  the  water, 
is  very  good.  The  weight  of  the  chain  and  trap  is  sufficient  to 
drown  the  animal  after  his  first  struggle  to  free  himself. 

Spring      ^  green   sapling  or  limb  of  tree,   to  which  the 
Pole       chain  is  fastened  and  the  end  firmly  held  to  the 
ground  by  a  notched  stake,  is  preferable  to  any- 
thing else  for  land  trapping. 


Dj?AO 


^,  ,     Should  be  used  when  sprins:  pole,  sliding-  pole 

Clogs  and  .    .  .       .        ^  Ku      u^'     A  r\ 


Dra  s  chains  are  unhandy  or  cannot  be  obtained.  On 

some  of  the  larger  traps  one  will  find  a  three  or 
or  four  pronged  hook  to  act  as  a  drag,  attached.  The  weight  of 
drag  or  clog  entirely  depends  upon  the  size  of  the  animal  and 
that  of  the  trap.  An  old  limb  of  a  tree  makes  an  excellent 
drag,  one  which  can  be  followed  very  easily.  Quite  often  the 
animal  becomes  tangled  up.  Stakes  should  not  be  used  unless 
on  the  open  prairie  where  wood  is  scarce  and  drags  of  that 
kind  unobtainable. 

Weights  Attached    ^    successful    trapper    knows    the  im- 
to  Tra  s  portance  of  drowning  the  animal  after  he 

has  sprung  the  trap  at  the  earliest  possible 
moment.  To  do  this  is  a  connumdrum  and  many  trappers  pay 
insufficient  attention  to  this  important  item.    If  traps  are  set 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide,  239 


on  a  log  there  is  nothing  easier  than  to  attach  a  stone  to  the 
chain.  This  should  be  attached  as  near  as  possible  to  the  trap, 
and  so  arranged  that  when  the  animal  springs  the  trap  and  jumps 
into  the  water,  the  stone  will  follow  him.  At  times,  if  the  end 
of  chain  is  attached  to  a  rope  or  wire  and  placed  over  limb  of 
tree,  with  the  other  end  weighted  so  when  the  animal  springs 
the  trap  he  will  jerk  the  rope,  and  by  so  doing  the  weight  that 
rests  on  the  fork  will  descend,  lifting  the  victfm  up  in  its  descent. 
These  appliances  are  sometimes  called  gallows. 

Anything  to  drown  aquatic  animals  and  to  raise  land  animals 
off  the  earth,  will  do.  The  trapper  who  knows  the  different 
ways  and  can  choose  the  best  one  in  any  given  locality,  is  the 
boy  that  will  be  crowned  with  success. 

Sliding^  Pole,  Spring  Pole,  Clogs,  Drags,  etc. 

_  For  animals  such  as  mink,  muskrat,  raccoon,  badeer, 

opossum  and  similar  animals,  a  light  drag,  to  which 
the  trap  is  attached,  is  often  preferable  to  having  the  chain  fast- 
ened on  some  permanent  object.  A  branch  of  a  tree  that  hae  many 
sub-branches  is  preferable.  Do  not  have  it  too  heavy  and  see  that 
ring  is  securely  fastened. 


Sliding 
Pole. 


A  sliding  pole  in  the  capture  of  mink,  muskrat,  and 
other  aquatic  animals  is  often  preferable  to  that  of  a 
drag,  spring  pole  or  stakes.  Such  a  pole  should  be 
eight  to  ten  feet  long  and  the  additional  limbs  trimmed  so  as  to 
permit  the  ring  of  the  trap  to  descend,  but  not  to  come  back.  The 
end,  of  course,  should  be  driven  into  the  bank  or  weighted  down 
by  stones  so  that  the  animal  w/U  be  unable  to  withdraw  it.  The 
other  end  should  be  in  deep  water.  In  the  animal's  desire  to 
escape  he  will  gradually  go  into  the  water  and  not  being  able  to 
come  back  will  drown. 

The  Clog  ''Some  powerful  and  violent  animals,  if  caught 
in  a  trap  that  is  staked  fast,  will  pull  their  legs  off 
or  beat  the  trap  in  pieces,  but  if  allowed  to  drag  the  trap  about 
with  a  moderate  weight  attached  will  behave  more  gently  or  at 
least  will  not  be  able  to  get  loose  for  want  of  purchase.  The 
weight  used  in  such  cases  is  called  a  clog.  It  is  usually  a  pole 
or  stick  of  wood  of  sufficient  size  to  correspond  with  size  of 
animal.    As  the  object  is  to  encumber  but  not  hold  it  fast,  the 


240 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


chain  should  be  attached  to  one  of  its  ends  so  that  it  will  not  be 
liable  to  become  fastened  among  the  bushes  for  a  considerable 
time.  The  usual  way  is  to  slip  the  ring  qver  the  large  end  of  the 
pole  and  fasten  with  a  wedge.  The  weight  for  a  black  bear 
should  be  30  pounds,  and  for  a  grizzly  bear  80  pounds." 

The  Spring  taking  several  kinds  of  land  animals,  such 

p^lg  as  the  marten  and  fisher,  it  is  necessary  to  pro- 
vide against  their  being  devoured  by  other  ani- 
mals before  the  trapper  reaches  them,  also  against  their  gnaw- 
ing off  their  legs  or  breaking  the  chain  or  the  trap  by  violence. 
The  contrivance  used  for  this  purpose  is  called  a  spring  pole 
and  is  prepared  in  the  following  manner:  If  a  small  tree  can 
be  found  standing  near  the  place  where  your  trap  is  set,  trim  it 
and  use  it  for  a  spring  as  it  stands.  If  not,  cut  a  pole  of  suffi- 
cient size  and  drive  it  firmly  into  the  ground,  bend  down  the 
top,  fasten  the  chain  ring  to  it,  and  fasten  the  pole  in  its  bent 
position  by  a  notch  or  hook  on  a  small  tree  or  stick  driven  into 
the  ground.  When  the  animal  is  caught,  his  struggles,  pulling 
on  the  chain,  unhook  the  pole,  which  flying  up  with  a  jerk, 
carries  him  into  the  air  out  of  the  reach  of  prowlers,  and  dis- 
ables his  attempts  to  escape  by  self-amputation  or  other  violence. 
The  size  of  the  pole  must  be  proportioned  to  the  weight  of  the 
game  it  is  expected  to  lift." 

The  Slidin  ''Animals  of  aquatic  habits  when  caught  in 
^ole  '"^  traps  invariably  plunge  at  once  into  deep  water 
and  it  is  the  object  of  the  trapper  availing  him- 
self of  this  plunge,  to  drown  his  captive  as  soon  as  possible  in 
order  to  stop  his  violence  and  keep  him  out  of  the  reach  of 
other  animals.  The  weight  of  the  trap  and  chain  is  sufficient 
for  this  purpose,  in  case  of  the  muskrat.  But  in  taking  the 
larger  amphibious  animals  such  as  the  beaver,  the  trapper  uses 
a  sliding  pole.  It  is  prepared  in  the  following  manner:  Cut 
a  pole  ten  or  twelve  feet  long,  leaving  branches  enough  on  the 
end  to  prevent  the  ring  of  the  chain  from  slipping  ofif.  Place 
the  pole  near  where  you  set  your  trap  in  an  inclined  position, 
with  its  small  end  reaching  into  the  deepest  part  of  the  stream 
and  the  large  end  secured  by  a  hook  driven  into  the  ground. 
Slip  the  ring  of  the  chain  on  to  this  pole  and  see  that  it  is  free 
to  traverse  down  the  whole  length.  When  the  animal  is  taken 
it  plunges  desperately  down  into  the  region  towards  which  the 
pole  leads.  The  ring  slides  down  to  the  end  of  the  pole  at 
the  bottom  of  the  stream  and  with  a  short  chain  prevents  the 
victim  from  rising  to  the  surface  again  or  returning  to  the 
shore," 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  241 


HOW  TO  SKIN  FUR  BEARING  ANIMALS,  IVCANNER  OF 
STRETCHING  RAW  FUR  SKINS,  HOW  TO  MAKE 
FUR  STRETCHERS,  MANNER  OF  PREPARING 
SKINS  FOR  THE  MARKET,  DRYING 
SKINS,  ETC. 

The  Handling  of  Furs. 

Not  only  is  it  necessary  for  the  trapper  to  possess  the  knowl- 
edge of  setting  traps,  snares  or  other  contrivances,  or  in  what 
manner  to  poison,  also  the  proper  manipulation  of  the  rifle  or 
shot-gun  in  hunting  or  trapping  fur-bearing  animals,  but  he  must 
also  comprehend  and  master  the  proper  care  of  skins  in  order 
to  realize  full  market  value  and  to  prevent  spoiling. 

To  be  successful  a  trapper  should  visit  his  traps  as  often 
as  possible.  Every  twenty-four  hours  or  every  other  day  is 
generally  sufficient.  If  the  victim  lies  too  long  in  the  trap 
the  skin  is  likely  to  slip  or  taint.  Also  other  animals  may  damage 
or  devour  the  victim.  The  skin  should  be  removed  just  as  soon 
as  the  animal  is  dead  or  the  fur  sufficiently  dry.  It  is  poor  policy 
to  remove  skin  while  the  body  is  in  a  frozen  state.  If  the  body 
is  warm,  it  is  often  advisable,  especially  in  larger  animals,  to 
start  the  blood  by  cutting,  permitting  the  blood^to  flow  as  freely 
as  possible. 

Proper  Way  of  Skinning. 

In  the  skinning  of  animals  that  require  the  skin  to  be  dried 
in  a  cased  shape,  such  as  mink,  marten,  otter,  muskrat,  red  fox, 
wild  cat,  lynx,  wolf,  badger,  opossum,  etc.,  it  is  necessary  to 
begin  with  the  knife  at  the  hind  feet  and  slit  down  to  and  around 
the  vent,  strip  the  skin  from  the  tailbone,  in  case  of  an  otter 
cut  the  tail  open  but  on  other  animals  simply  pull  the  skin  over 
the  bone.  Then  peel  the  skin  from  the  body  by  drawing  or  pull- 
ing it  over,  leaving  the  fur  inward.  Use  the  knife  as  little  as 
possible.  One  should  have  no  difficulty  if  above  method  is  used. 
Leave  all  claws  attached  to  the  skin,  also  care  should  be  taken 
not  to  mutilate  the  skin  around  the  mouth  and  eyes  as  some 
skins  are  used  for  mounting  purposes.  Heads  must  be  com- 
plete. 

Skinning  Beaver. 

Take  a  regular  butcher's  skinning  knife  and  slit  from  center 
of  lower  jaw  down  over  belly  to  vent.  Skin  out  jaw  and  care- 
fully remove  skin  from  head.  Do  not  cut  legs  open.  Remove 
skin  from  body  without  further  cuts  in  skin.  Be  sure  and  scrape 
all  fat  off.    (See  directions  for  stretching  beaver  skins  on  page 

244-) 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


243 


Lightning  Method  for  Skinning  Muskrats. 

Cut  off  front  feet  and  tail  with  a  hatchet,  with  knife  sht  from 
hind  legs  to  vent,  skin  around  hind  legs,  attach  a  strong  cord  to 
both  legs  and  pull  skin  over  body. 

Skinning  a  Bear. 

Some  trappers  prefer  to  skin  a  bear  similar  to  taking  of  hides 
from  cattle.  This  method  is  O.  K.  For  the  benefit  of  those  not 
familiar  the  following  suggestions  will  be  in  time. 

Take  knife  and  slit  from  hind  legs  to  vent.  Then  from 
inner  part  of  fore  legs  to  brisket  down  to  center  of  lower  jaw. 
Then  open  skin  by  cutting  straight  over  the  belly  to  vent.  Re- 
move the  skin  from  head  with  care.  Leave  ears,  jaw,  openings  of 
eyes  intact. 

Another  method  resulting  in  Indian  style  handled  skins, 
is  to  remove  the  skins  similar  to  that  of  beaver,  excepting  the  legs 
should  be  cut  open  so  as  to  permit  the  skin  to  be  stretched  in 
proper  shape ;  bear  skins  must  not  be  stretched  in  a  round  shape 
like  the  beaver. 

Skinning  Deer,  Elk  and  Moose. 

The  skin  of  the  above  animals  should  be  removed  similar  to 
cattle,  calf  and  horse  hides.  The  hides  should  be  in  like  shape 
excepting  the  head  should  never  be  slit  open  as  is  the  practice 
of  butchers  in  taking  off  cattle  hides. 

Skinning  a  Wolf. 

To  remove  a  wolf  skin  from  the  carcass  properly,  it  is  neces- 
sary to  follow  and  use  the  same  methods  employed  in  skinning 
the  fox,  mink,  or  other  animals  whose  skins  should  be  cased  and 
not  cut  open  on  the  belly.  In  western  states  it  is  the  practice 
to  remove  the  skins  by  cutting  clear  across  the  belly  and  by  fol- 
lowing the  method  used  in  skinning  bear,  and  removing  cattle 
hides,  though  not  as  good  as  if  left  cased ;  the  price  for  the  skin 
is  about  the  same. 

Stretching  Skins  in  a  Frame. 

The  skins  from  such  animals  as  the  bear,  beaver,  raccoon, 
wolverine,  deer  and  dog  can  be  best  stretched  in  a  frame.  The 
frame  is  made  out  of  four  pieces.  The  latter  can  be  scantlings 
or  one-inch  boards.  If  these  cannot  be  had,  take  saplings,  which 
make  excellent  frames.  The  skins,  however,  must  be  green,  as 
a  part  dry  skin  will  not  stretch  sufficiently.  After  you  have  made 
a  frame  of  sufficient  size  for  the  skin,  take  a  large  sack  needle 
and  some  strong  twine  and  sew  by  making  stitches  every  one 


244         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


or  two  inches,  each  stitch  encircHng  that  particular  portion  of  the 
frame. 

Do  not  cut  off  the  feet  or  ears ;  that  would  make  holes  in  the 
skin.  If  same  are  cut  off,  sew  such  openings  together  before 
putting  skin  on  stretcher.  Some  remove  all  meat  and  fat  before 
stretching,  others  proceed  to  scr?pe  after  skin  is  stretched  upon 
the  frame.  One  can  suit  himself,  but  we  believe  all  surplus  meat 
and  fat  should  be  removed  first,  and  when  skin  is  on  the  stretcher, 
finish  the  work  with  a  dull  knife,  hardwood  stick  or  spoon.  Shape 
skin  with  your  hands  before  sewing  in  frame;  do  not  over- 
stretch, but  make  allowance  for  the  natural  shrinkage  in  process 
of  drying. 

Bow  Stretchers. 

The  use  of  the  bow  stretchers  is  dying  out  and  it  is  well  for 
trappers  to  discontinue  stretching  their  skins  in  such  a  careless 
manner.  A  few  Indian  tribes  and  occasionally  a  trapper  who 
has  no  tools  for  making  other  stretchers,  use  the  bow  stretcher, 
but  only  for  muskrat.  We  recommend  the  discontinuance  of  its 
use  altogether. 

Hoop  Stretchers. 

In  sections  where  beaver  are  plentiful  it  is  well  for  the  skins 
to  be  stretched  on  a  hoop  made  out  of  a  stick  of  hickory  or  other 
flexible  wood.  If  a  single  stick  is  not  long  enough,  two  small 
ones  can  be  spliced  together;  tie  over-lapping  ends  together  with 
withes.  See  that  the  hoop  is  round,  and  not  too  large  in  size 
for  the  skin  it  is  intended. 

In  skinning  rip  from  center  of  lip  to  vent,  gradually  skin, 
peel  and  fist  around  the  lips,  eyes  and  ears,  continue  until  you 
have  reached  legs.  Do  not  rip  lengthwise  on  legs  but  gradually 
pull  them  from  the  skin  and  cut  so  as  to  have  smallest  possible 
opening  when  skin  is  finally  stretched.  (Some  prefer  to  sew 
leg  holes  together).  When  skin  is  off,  begin  at  the  head  and 
fasten  to  hoop  with  twine  or  withes  inserted  about  an  inch  apart 
and  continue  until  entire  skin  is  stretched  round  and  as  tightly 
as  a  drum-head. 

Formerly  bears,  wolves  and  raccoons  were  stretched  in  this 
way,  but  of  late  years  beavers  are  the  only  skins  stretched  in 
round  shape. 

Skinning  and  Handling  Raccoon  Skin. 

'^As  I  have  given  the  main  points  of  my  experience  in  trap- 
ping the  raccoon,  I  will  now  tell  how  I  skin  and  stretch  the  hides. 
If  you  wish  to  case  the  skin,  cut  the  skin  around  the  hind  legs 
near  the  heels,  then  slit  along  the  back  part  of  legs  through  the 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


anus  from  heel  to  heel.  Peel  the  skin  down  the  legs  to  the  root 
of  the  tail,  pull  the  bone  out  of  the  latter,  strip  the  skin  toward  the 
head,  cutting  it  loose  at  the  fore  feet,  and  around  the  mouth 
carefully.  Be  very  careful  in  skinning  the  tail  for  if  it  is  broken 
the  sale  is  injured.  Take  two  small,  square  edged  sticks  about 
four  or  six  inches  long.  Place  the  bone  of  the  tail  between  them 
and  pull  steadily.  To  case,  get  a  board  of  length  and  width,  to 
suit  the  size  of  the  skin,  the  thinner  the  better.  It  should  not  be 
too  sharp  at  the  nose  nor  too  broad  at  the  rear.  Make  it  nicely 
rounded  at  the  nose,  slip  the  skin  on  with  fur  inside,  pull  the  nose 
over  end  of  board  to  lap  on  chin,  tack  through  both,  then  pull 
for  length,  and  tack  both  hind  legs  and  root  of  tail. 

"To  remove  skin  with  intention  to  leave  it  flat  or  open,  sHt 
hind  legs  as  described  above,  slit  fore  legs  across  the  breast  from 
foot  to  foot,  then  entire  length  of  belly  to  chin,  strip  skin  from 
hind  legs  and  tail  as  above ;  then  strip  to  head,  leaving  the  ears  en- 
tire on  skin  and  cut  carefully  around  mouth  and  nose.  To  stretch, 
cut  holes  near  the  edge  of  skin  along  both  sides  from  hind  leg 
to  foreleg,  across  the  bottom,  and  across  the  top  just  below  the 
ears ;  then  insert  four  sticks  in  the  four  rows  of  holes,  the  length 
depending  upon  size  of  hide.  The  hide  should  be  square  or  nearly 
so.  Place  a  stick  across  the  middle  with  the  ends  swallow  forked 
to  keep  it  in.  Place  another  from  the  root  of  tail  to  end  of  nose. 
I  prefer  splitting  the  head  to  the  back  of  the  ears  and  sewing 
the  jaw  and  foreleg  together.  This  makes  a  beautiful  figure 
The  holes  should  not  be  more  than  two  or  three  inches  apart  and 
all  particles  of  flesh  and  thin  pelt  should  be  stripped  off  before 
stretching.  Hang  in  the  shade  to  dry  with  fur  to  the  wall.  When 
ready  to  ship  take  out  all  sticks,  boards  or  stretchers,  pack  the 
skins  with  two  fur  sides  together  and  two  flesh  sides  alternately, 
as  the  flesh  might  grease  the  fur  and  give  it  an  oily  feeling.  Bale 
or  sew  up  in  burlap  and  they  are  ready  for  market. 

Mink  and  ''Opossum  and  mink  are  skinned  the  same  as  rac- 
O  ossum  coons.  Prepare  for  casing,  and  stretch  on  boards 
as  described  for  cased  raccoon.  The  tail  of 
opossum  should  be  cut  off,  that  of  mink  left  on.  A  slit  should  be 
made  in  the  end  of  tails  of  raccoon,  mink,  otter,  etc.,  to  let  out  any 
foul  matter  that  may  gather  in  the  cavity  in  warm,  foggy  weather. 
A  perfect  skin  of  a  raccoon  when  ready  for  market  should  be 
nearly  square.  If  mink,  otter,  or  opossum,  it  should  be  nicely 
rounded  at  the  nose,  not  too  sharp,  nor  too  wide  at  the  tail.  If  the 
ears  are  hard  and  dry  it  is  not  a  perfect  skin.  If  the  tail  is  hard, 
kinked  or  crooked,  it  is  not  a  perfect  fur.  If  blue  behind  the  fore- 
legs or  under  the  chin,  it  was  caught  too  early.  If  it  has  been 
whitened  by  salt  or  alum,  it  is  not  a  perfect  fur."     O.  Pullnow. 


246         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


To  Skin  the  Wild  Cat  and  Red  Fox. 

As  soon  as  possible  after  the  animal  is  dead  or 
killed,  it  should  be  skinned  and  the  skin  stretched. 
In  warm  weather  a  dead  animal  will  turn  black  or 
blue  on  the  belly  in  fourteen  hours.  The  animal  should  be  skinned 
while  the  warmth  is  in  the  body.  All  skins  of  animals  smaller 
than  a  bear  can  be  cased  more  conveniently  by  the  trapper.  As 


To  Skin  a 
Wild  Cat. 


The  Result  of  Knowing  How  to  Hunt  and  Trap 

to  hoop  stretcher  and  bow  stretcher,  I  do  not  favor  them.  A  bow 
stretcher  can  be  made  in  a  pinch  for  such  as  muskrat. 

''Hang  the  animal  by  one  leg  and  commence  by  cutting  down 
inside  the  hind  leg  to  the  vent  and  up  the  other  leg.  Cut  around 
the  leg  above  the  claws,  (I  do  not  leave  the  hind  claws  unless  for 
special  reasons,  except  the  mountain  lion),  and  make  a  slit  up 
the  tail  a  little  ways,  pulling  tail  out  by  the  help  of  a  split  stick. 
(Tails  are  worthless  on  beaver  and  muskrat,  and  the  tail  of  the 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


247 


otter  should  be  cut  open  and  spread  out).  Skin  or  peel  down 
to  the  forelegs,  break  off  below  knee  and  leave  paws  in  the  skin. 
Cut  around  ears,  eyes  and  mouth  and  the  skin  is  then  ready  to 
be  put  on  the  stretcher.  Always  have  the  fur  towards  the 
stretcher  and  the  skin  part  outside.  The  stretcher  should  be  made 
in  the  following  manner : 

^tretchin  ''Get  a  board  one-half  inch  thick,  three  feet  long, 
nine  inches  wide  at  the  wide  end,  tapering  to  about 
four  and  one-half  inches  wide  at  small  end,  rounded  and  notched 
out  for  the  head.  The  illustration  (elsewhere  in  this  book)  will 
give  an  idea  of  how  the  stretcher  will  look.  I  don't  use  a  single- 
piece  stretcher  unless  I  have  to. 

''By  ripping  the  above  stretcher  into  three  pieces  and  making 
a  wedge  or  three-piece  stretcher  therefrom,  the  result  will  be 
nicely  shaped  skins  which  can  be  removed  without  danger  of  tear- 
ing. I  take  a  rip  saw  and  cut  from  center  of  stretcher  a  wedge 
of  about  one  and  three-quarters  inch  to  about  two  inches  wide  at 
lower  part  to  a  point  at  head  of  strethcer.  This  forms  a  nice 
wedge,  and  if  necessary,  this  wedge  can  be  run  through  the 
mouth  of  the  skin  in  case  the  animal  is  a  large  one,  and  if  smaller, 
it  need  not  be  placed  clear  down.  This  stretcher  is  excellent  for 
otter,  wolf,  wild  cat,  foxes,  and  if  made  smaller,  for  all  other  ani- 
mals of  the  weasel  or  marten  family.  The  skin  is  pulled  over  the 
stretcher  and  when  fairly  tight,  drive  four  nails,  two  on  each  side, 
into  the  skin  to  hold  same  firmly,  and  then  take  wedge  and  slowly 
insert  until  the  skin  attains  its  proper  size  and  becomes  smooth. 
Then  take  more  nails  and  fasten  skin  on  rear  part  of  stretcher 
and  wedge. 

''Always  stretch  belly  on  one  side  and  back  on  other  side  of 
stretcher  and  see  that  tail  is  exactly  in  center  of  wedge.  Before 
putting  the  skin  on  stretcher,  take  a  hatchet,  sharp  stick  or 
knife  and  scrape  fat  from  skin ;  when  on  stretcher  smooth  out 
with  the  same  tools  and  remove  every  bit  of  grease,  wash  and 
wipe  thoroughly  dry,  and  then  hang  skin  away  in  a  shady  place 
for  five  to  ten  days.  When  firmly  set,  stretcher  can  be  removed. 
Never  take  stretcher  off  too  early  as  skins  will  crumble  up  and 
get  in  bad  shape. 

"Be  careful  and  not  get  fat  on  fur  and  tail.  When  skins  are 
thoroughly  dry  and  you  are  ready  to  ship,  pack  in  burlap  and  ship 
by  express.  If  skins  are  only  partly  dry,  they  will  mildew  and 
possibly  spoil ;  therefore,  the  skins  should  be  thoroughly  dry." 

To  Skin  ''The  body  should  not  be  frozen,  if  it  is,  thaw  so 
^  that  the  outer  portion  of  the  body  is  thoroughly 

thawed  out.    The  fox  should  be  skinned  while 

hanging  up. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


249 


'Take  a  small,  sharp-pointed,  thin-bladed  knife  and  a  large 
skinning  knife — both  should  be  very  sharp.  Cut  crosswise  on 
inside  of  hoof,  leaving  claws  attached  to  the  skin,  then  open 
hind  legs  by  inserting  small  knife  between  the  skin  and  body 
from  claws  to  vent,  following  the  peculiar  furred  line  indicating 
the  innermost  portion  of  leg.  Now  skin  out  the  legs;  use  the 
knife  to  start  with  and  pull  to  free  the  skin,,  in  preference  to  cut- 
ting. Pull  skin  upwards  so  as  to  free  the  second  joints  of  the  foot 
before  severing  the  skin  with  the  claws  from  the  leg  at  the  joint 
indicated  above. 

''When  legs  are  freed  get  spreader  or  gamber  stick  and  place 
in  position  through  the  cords,  and  hang  carcass  up. 

"Now  skin  on  belly  down  about  five  to  seven  inches,  then 
about  the  sides  and  back,  leaving  the  tail  portion  unmolested 
until  you  come  up  from  bottom. 

"Now  comes  the  most  delicate  job.  Get  an  eight  or  ten-inch 
stick,  three-fourth  or  one  inch  thick,  split  in  center  to  about  half 
way  down.  Put  the  body  on  the  ground.  Take  split  stick  and 
place  at  root  of  naked  tail,  then  with  left  hand  take  body  and  with 
right  hand  hold  stick,  pull  steadily  and  you  have  skinned  the  tail. 

"Now  hang  up  again,  and  pull  skin  down  over  belly.  Use 
knife  as  little  as  possible,  and  be  very  careful  on  belly  portion  as 
the  skin  is  very  tender  and  you  may  tear  it. 

"When  at  forelegs,  take  knife  and  open  about  knee  and  slit 
down  to  the  body;  but  if  one  wants  the  skin  of  the  legs  left  on 
pull  skin  with  one  hand,  holding  the  body,  and  with  your  knife 
assist  until  you  come  to  knee  or  foot,  which  dislodge,  one  leg  at 
a  time.  Then  pull  the  skin  down  to  the  head,  cut  ears  close  to 
the  skull,  pull  down  to  the  eyes — cut  about  same  way  at  the  nose. 
Always  leave  ears,  eye  part,  lips  and  nose  on  skin. 

Stretchin  "This  requires  little  work.  Get  two  thin  pieces 
re  c  ing.  boards,  have  them  planed  smoothly,  thinner 
on  one  side  than  on  the  other,  also  taper  from  one-half  inch  to 
three  inches.  Procure  wedge  one-sixteenth  to  one-half  inch  wide, 
same  thickness  as  other  two  boards  and  about  as  long  or  longer. 
Some  place  fur  inside  and  others  outside.  A  nice  prime  red  fox 
looks  better  if  fur  is  outside.  Place  skin  over  stretcher,  then  take 
wedge  and  insert,  smooth  out,  nail  skin  at  tail  and  on  belly  por- 
tion, and  hang  up  in  high,  shady  place  in  the  barn  to  dry.  In  a 
few  days  remove  stretcher,  and  hang  skin  up  until  perfectly  dry." 

From  G.  Halvorson,  Arvilla,  N.  D. 

How  to  Skin  and  Stretch  Mink  Skins. 

Take  a  small,  sharp,  thin,  narrow-bladed  knife,  and  slit  down 
where  the  fur  comes  together  on  the  inner  part  of  the  leg,  from 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


heel  to  anus.  Now  take  thumb  and  forefinger  and  peel  the  hide 
ofif  the  legs;  take  knife  and  slit  from  anus  to  end  of  tail.  With 
your  thumb  and  fingers  loosen  tailbone  from  skin.  Some  only 
open  tail  one  inch  from  anus  and  then  take  two  flat,  notched 
sticks,  fitting  around  the  tailbone,  which  grasp  firmly  in  one  hand 
and  pull  skin  ofif  bone  with  the  other.  Now  proceed  to  further  re- 
move skin  from  rear  legs,  scarcely  using  the  knife.  Pull  skin 
over  body,  using  your  thumb  and  hands.  When  at  fore  legs 
continue  to  use  fingers  and  pull  forelegs  out.  Another  pull  will 
bring  you  to  the  ears  when  a  knife  should  be  used  in  cutting  them 
ofif  close  to  the  skull.  A  slight  pull  will  bring  the  skin  ofif  body 
and  the  knife  should  be  used  for  the  last  time  in  cutting  ofif  the 
nose  and  trimming  around  the  lips. 

Stretch  in  Stretching  mink  skins  and  making  them  look  nice 
and  fine  is  more  important  than  skinning,  and, 
in  fact,  next  to  trapping  the  animal  itself.  Three-piece  stretchers 
are  used  exclusively  by  me,  unless  in  a  pinch  I  use  a  one-board 
stretcher  with  a  small  wedge  on  top  to  take  up  the  slack  and  to 
assist  in  removing  the  skin  from  the  stretcher.  The  belly  and 
back  part  of  the  animal  should  be  on  opposite  sides  and  exactly 
even.  Stretch  out  legs  and  ears,  but  do  not  tack  permanently 
until  skin  is  scraped. 

g      .        Take  a  dull  case  knife  and  remove  all  surplus  fat 
craping.  meat.    If  there  is  too  much  meat  on  a  skin, 

it  cannot  be  stretched  right.  After  you  have  removed  surplus 
fat  and  meat,  start  to  stretch  the  skin  permanently. 

Use  pains  in  stretching  out  all  parts  of  the  skin,  especially 
legs  and  tail.  Take  especial  pains  with  the  tail  so  that  same  is 
stretched,  or  use  coarse,  hollow  straw,  which  insert  so  as  to  per- 
mit the  tail  to  dry.  Now  take  a  dull  case-knife  and  scrape  ofif 
all  fat.  Don't  let  fat  run  on  the  fur.  Wipe  it  ofif  with  a  rag. 
If  fat  has  a  tendency  to  run  in  the  grain  of  the  skin,  cut  close  with 
a  sharp  knife.  Having  removed  all  fat  take  a  sponge  or  woolen 
rag,  dampen  with  water,  and  proceed  to  work  all  grease  out  of 
the  skin.  All  large  filaments,  which  present  a  rough  and  ragged 
appearance  should  be  removed.  After  skin  is  cleaned,  put  in  a 
shady  place  to  dry;  never  close  to  a  stove,  neither  pile  one  skin 
on  top  of  another.  If  you  have  occasion  to  force  drying,  put 
the  skin  in  a  warm  room  where  there  is  good  circulation  of  air. 

N.  C.  A. 

Stretching  Skins,  Flat  and  Open. 

Begin  at  the  head,  nailing  at  the  nose.  Stretch  lengthwise, 
until  fairly  tight  and  tack  through  the  tail.  Now  place  one  nail 
through  each  leg  at  the  foot,  but  not  too  tight.  Stretch  cross- 
wise, placing  nails  about  one  inch  apart.    Be  careful  not  to 


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251 


over-stretch  the  hides,  as  it  gives  them  a  thin  appearance  and 
deducts  much  from  their  value.  Fred  Abbott^ 

Method  of  Skinning  Muskrat  and  Stretching  Skin. 

A  few  remarks  on  skinning  and  stretching  may  not  be  amiss, 
as  on  the  speed  and  thoroughness  depends  much  of  the  trapper's 
success.  Make  two  hooks  from  stout  wire  or  tenpenny  nails,  just 
large  enough  to  fife-  tightly  over  the  smallest  point  of  the  musk- 
rat's  hind  legs.  Tie  a  stout  cord  to  each  of  the  hooks  and  fasten 
to  some  object  far  enough  apart  so  as  to  have  the  hooks  six  inches 
apart  when  the  muskrat  is  hung  up.  Now  take  your  knife, 
which  should  be  slim  bladed  and  at  least  4  inches  long,  and  in- 
sert it  under  the  skin  of  hind  legs,  letting  the  point  of  the  knife 
come  out  at  root  of  tail.  Give  one  quick  jerk  and  rip  the  hide 
the  whole  length.  Insert  the  knife  in  the  other  side  of  the  tail, 
letting  it  come  out  at  the  other  hind  foot,  and  repeat  the  opera- 
tion, but  do  not  cut  around  the  feet,  as  by  so  doing  one  is  likely 
to  cut  the  flesh  which  will  come  off  with  the  hide  and  cause  in- 
convenience. Take  the  hide  between  the  thumb  and  fore-finger 
and  pull  the  skin  around  the  feet.  With  some  practice  this  can 
be  done  quickly  and  is  better  than  cutting.  Pull  the  skin  over 
the  body  down  to  the  forelegs  and  pull  them  out  without  cutting 
them.  On  reaching  the  ears,  take  knife  and  cut  around  eyes, 
ears  and  nose. 

^tretchin  Make  your  stretcher  out  of  thin  boards  about  five 
rcLC  mg.  -^^^j^^g  wide  and  tapering  well  to  the  small  end. 
Plane  and  sandpaper  until  you  have  a  smooth  surface.  Use  one- 
piece  or  three-piece  stretchers.  For  fleshing  and  to  remove  fat 
and  surplus  meat,  take  a  large  tablespoon  and  use  the  bowl  for 
scraping  off  this  fat  and  flesh.  By  this  method  there  is  abso- 
lutely no  danger  of  hurting  the  skin,  or  damaging  same  by  cutting, 
as  is  often  the  case  if  a  knife  is  used.  The  skin  is  also  of  smooth 
appearance.  Do  not  let  any  fat  get  on  the  fur.  If  you  do,  wipe 
it  off  with  clean  rag  or  use  dry  hardwood  sawdust. 

T.  GULLICKSON, 

Proper  Manner  of  Skinning  Mink  and  Stretching  Skins. 

First  cut  down  the  back  of  hind  legs  from  heel  to  anus.  Now, 
with  thumb  and  fore-finger  peel  the  hide  off  the  legs.  Next, 
slit  from  anus  towards  the  end  of  the  tail  one  inch ;  loosen  with 
fingers  as  before  around  butt  of  tail ;  then  get  a  couple  of  flat  sticks 
and  notch  them  to  fit  around  the  tail  bone.  Grasp  these  firmly 
in  one  hand  and  pull  the  skin  off  the  tail.  Proceed  with  the  knife 
to  carefully  remove  hide  from  the  hind-quarters.  Having  cut 
past  the  navel,  you  can,  with  a  single  pull,  rip  the  hide  past  the 


252 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


shoulder.  Now  place  your  thumb  between  hide  and  fore-leg,  at 
elbow  joint,  and  pull  fore-leg  out.  Another  pull  will  bring  you 
to  the  ears,  where  the  knife  comes  into  play  again.  Cut  ears  at 
the  base,  close  to  the  skull  and  proceed  to  carefully  skin  to  the 
end  of  the  nose. 

Board  being  of  proper  length  and  width,  proceed 
to  pull  hide  over  same,  hair  inside,  belly  on  one  side 
and  back  square  on  the  other  flat  side  of  the 
board;  not  on  the  edge.  If  there  be  much  flesh  on  hide,  as  some- 
times happens  with  an  old  mink,  pull  hide  tight,  securely  fasten 
with  a  few  small  wire  nails,  putting  nails  in  the  end  of  legs  and 


How  to 
Stretch. 


MU3KRAT  HOUSE. 


^       .       .  .  ,  '  ,  .V   1.   i 

one  at  root  of  the  tail.  With  a  dull  case, knife  scrape  oflf  the  sur- 
plus flesh.  This  will  enable  you  to  stretch  properly  as  a  fleshy 
hide  will  not  stretch  well.  This  done,  you  may  pull  out  the  nails 
and  proceed  to  stretch  out  legs,  nailing  at  edge  of  board  on  belly 
side.  Have  both  legs  even.  Put  at  least  half  a  dozen  nails  in 
each  skin,  so  that  they  will  not  give  way  when  the  hide  dries  up. 
On  the  other  side,  put  a  nail  near  the  edge  of  the  board,  taking 
care  to  keep  the  back  even  as  it  looks  much  neater  than  if  long 
cornered,  and  cuts  better  when  it  comes  to  making  up.  Always 
place  your  nails  near  the  edge  of  the  hide.  If  you  use  a  three- 
piece  stretcher,  shove  the  wedge  as  far  as  it  will  go,  but  do  not 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide,  253 


use  too  much  force  as  you  may  split  the  hide  and  ruin  it.  Now, 
tack  the  belly  and  the  back,  pull  the  tail  straight,  and  tack  on 
the  middle  piece.  In  this  position,  it  will  dry  nicely  and  not 
kink  up  as  they  are  sure  to  do  when  not  nailed. 

My  choice,  is  a  flat  board  stretcher,  with  two  tapering  cleats, 
one  for  the  belly  and  one  for  the  back,  the  latter  being  long 
enough  to  allow  the  tail  to  be  tacked  to  it.  Put  a  nail  in  the 
belly  cleat,  so  as  to  keep  the  hide  and  the  cleat  in  place.  Next, 
pull  fore-leg  up,  tie  with  thread  or  twine  close  up  to  body.  With 
a  sharp  knife  cut  about  three-eighths  of  an  inch  above  the  string, 
press  down  with  the  finger,  having  care  to  turn  hair  out,  forming 
a  sort  of  rosette. 

Now  put  away  in  a  warm  room,  but  not  near  the  stove. 
After  8  or  lo  hours,  or  when  half-dry,  it  is  ready  to  clean  and 
polish.  Use  a  dull  case  knife,  scrape  gently,  and  the  fat  will 
readily  come  off.  If  any  filaments  have  a  tendency  to  run  into 
the  grain  of  the  skin,  cut  close  with  a  sharp  knife.  Having  re- 
moved all  fat,  we  are  ready  for  the  finishing  touch  or  polish. 
Dampen  a  small  sponge  or  woolen  rag,  don't  soak,  and  rub  all 
over  the  hide.  This  will  lay  low  all  the  fleshy  filaments  which 
give  such  a  ragged  appearance  to  a  skin,  and  will  give  it  a  neat 
and  glossy  appearance  such  as  I  have  never  been  able  to  obtain 
by  any  other  process.  Now  put  away  to  dry,  but  keep  away 
from  the  fire.  Let  it  dry  thoroughly,  before  taking  oflf  the 
board,  as  a  partly-dried  hide  will  shrink,  consequently  decreasing 
in  value.  When  dry,  always  hang  (don't  pile  up)  in  a  dry,  cool 
place,  where  mice  cannot  get  at  them.  A  good  way  is  to  hang 
them  to  the  ceiling  with  a  string.  J.  A.  Despardins. 

To  Stretch  a  Mink  Skin. 

To  stretch  a  mink  skin  on  a  three-piece  or  wedge  stretcher, 
take  the  skin,  which  should  be  green  and  clean,  and  insert  the 
two  sword  shaped  pieces  with  the  smaller  ends  toward  the  nose. 
To  prevent  nose  from  slipping  ofif  ends,  drive  a  tack  or  small  nail 
in  each  end  of  the  board.  Always  have  flesh  part  of  the  skin 
on  the  outside  and  the  fur  part  next  to  the  stretcher. 

Now  pull  skin  up  as  far  as  possible.  Be  sure  tail  is  in  center, 
drive  two  tacks,  one  on  each  side  to  hold  skin  up,  then  insert 
center  piece  (wedge)  between  the  two  side  stretchers,  shove 
wedge  down  until  skin  is  the  required  shape  and  all  parts  proper- 
ly stretched. 

Use  ordinary  judgment  and  care  and  be  sure  not  to  over- 
stretch the  skin.  Drive  tack  through  tail  in  wedge.  This  com- 
pletes the  stretching.  A  medium  sized  northern  or  north-west- 
ern mink  skin  (not  including  tail)  stretched  in  this  way  should 
be  twenty  to  twenty-two  inches  long,  three  and  one-half  to  four 


254         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


inches  wide  on  bottom  and  gradually  tapering  down  to  the  nose. 
How  to  Make  Mink  Stretchers. 

Take  two  pieces  of  pine  wood  about  thirty  inches  long,  one 
and  one-half  inches  wide  and  five-eighths  to  three-fourths  inches 
thick.  Taper  edges  from  one  end  so  as  to  be  about  three-fourths 
inches  wide  when  about  two  inches  from  the  other  end.  This 
again  taper  to  one-third  inch  to  the  extreme  end. 

When  this  is  done  plane  ofif  from  the  sides  so  as  to  leave  the 
pieces  in  a  sword-like  shape.  The  thickest  portion  when  finished 
should  be  7-16  to  9-16  of  an  inch  on  the  edge  while  the  other  end 
about  3-16  of  an  inch  and  also  tapering  to  a  point  more  ab- 
ruptly when  about  two  inches  from  the  end.  Sandpaper  and 
smooth  the  thin  edge,  also  sides.  Then  take  a  piece  of  wood  thirty 
inches  long,  the  same  thickness  as  the  thickest  part  of  the  side 
pieces,  about  one  and  one-half  inches  to  two  inches  wide  and 
taper  so  as  to  make  a  wedge  of  about  one  and  one-half  to  two 
inches  on  one  end  to  about  one-fourth  or  three-eights  of  an  inch 
on  the  other  end.    This  completes  the  so-called  mink  stretcher. 

HOW  TO  SKIN  A  HEAD  THAT  IS  TO  BE  MOUNTED. 

Many  trappers  often  kill  horned  game,  also  fur  bearing  ani- 
mals which  they  desire  mounted,  but  in  skinning  invariably  spoil 
the  skin  for  the  purpose  intended.  Even  when  skins  are  not  de- 
sired to  be  mounted  by  the  hunter,  it  is  well  to  skin  animal,  hav- 
ing in  view  that  someone  else  may  want  the  skin  mounted,  in 
consequence  thereof  the  value  of  the  skin  is  increased.  This 
is  especially  true  in  skinning  the  wolverene,  mountain  lion  and 
cougar,  also  in  removing  the  skin  from  horned  game,  such  as 
deer,  elk,  moose,  antelope,  mountain  sheep  and  mountain  goat. 
In  removing  the  skin  of  the  latter,  it  is  necessary  to  cut  from  the 
base  of  one  horn  to  that  of  another  and  from  center  between  the 
horns  down  the  back  of  neck  to  the  shoulder;  this  forms  a  cut 
resembling  a  ''T,''  and  the  only  one  necessary.  Never  cut  the 
skin  open  from  the  lip  running  along  the  neck  to  the  breast  as 
that  spoils  it  for  taxidermist  purposes,  and  even  if  it  does  not, 
no  taxidermist  can  make  a  good  job  therefrom.  Great  care 
should  be  taken  in  skinning  about  the  eyes,  and  be  sure  and  leave 
on  all  parts  of  the  lip ;  special  care  should  be  exercised  about  the 
corners  of  the  mouth  and  eyes.  Leave  considerable  of  the  gristle 
of  the  nose  attached  to  skin.  If  you  can,  turn  the  ears  inside  out. 
All  surplus  fat  should  be  removed  and  the  skin  immediately 
salted.  If  this  cannot  be  done,  hang  in  a  shady  place  to  dry. 
All  parts  should  be  stretched  so  as  to  be  exposed  to  the  air; 
otherwise  that  portion  lying  next  to  another  will  become  tainted. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide,  255 


Horns,  in  fact,  the  entire  skull,  should  be  saved  and  these,  if  good 
sized  and  well  formed  have  always  a  commercial  value. 

ADDITIONAL  REVENUE  EOR  TRAPPERS. 

It  is  well  known  that  the  large  beef  and  pork  packers  in  the 
operation  of  their  plants,  utilize  every  part  of  the  animal.  There 
is  no  waste  or  offal  that  is  not  turned  into  account;  even  the 
manure  in  the  pouch  of  the  animal  is  sold;  in  fact,  everything 
is  utilized  excepting  a  ''stray  kick"  or  the  ''squear'  of  a  pig. 
Hair,  blood,  ears,  tail,  sinews,  toes,  horns,  intestines,  hoofs,  etc., 
all  find  their  way  to  market  and  bring  good  prices.  All  of  these 
articles,  as  well  as  the  flesh  and  bodies  of  fur  bearing  ani- 
mals, could  be  utilized,  if  concentrated,  as  is  done  by  the  packers. 
Alas !  it  is  impossible.  Therefore  the  trapper  must  be  satis- 
fied in  saving  as  many  parts  of  the  body  as  possible,  and  for  which 
he  can  find  a  market. 

Intestines  ^^'^  known  amongst  old  trappers  that  the 

Indians  used  dried  intestines  in  sewing  and  patch- 
ing their  clothing  as  well  as  in  the  preparation  of  their  furs. 
These  were  also  used  in  the  manufacture  of  ropes,  lariats  and 
snares,  and  particularly  in  making  bow  strings.  Of  late  years, 
intestines,  after  they  are  cleansed  and  partly  dried  are  used  for 
musical  strings. 

Bear  Galls    These  have  a  commercial  value,  bringing  from 
$3.00  to  $5.00  per  pound.    Prevent  leakage  by 
tying  the  ends  with  a  string  and  hang  up  to  dry  in  a  shady  place ; 
when  dry,  market.    We  have  a  demand  for  these.    If  you  have 
any,  write  us. 

Beaver  Cas  These  have  been  saved  for  the  last  50  or  100 
tori  urns  years.  There  is  a  commercial  demand  for  them 
and  of  late  years  the  demand  is  greater  than  the 
supply.  These  castors  are  found  in  both  the  male  and  the  fe- 
male beaver.  The  contents  are  of  a  deep  orange  color  when  dry. 
Hang  up  in  a  shady  place  and  when  dry,  market.  The  oil  bags 
that  are  immediately  attached  to  the  beaver  castors  have  no  com- 
mercial value.  Trappers,  however,  use  them  in  the  manufacture 
of  decoy. 

Skunk  Glands  perfume  out  of  these  glands,  as  predic- 

ted by  certain  naturalists  and  scientists,  will 
soon  have  a  market  value.  If  the  contents  of  the  containers  or 
glands,  are  squeezed  into  a  bottle,  there  is  little  danger  of  having 
the  fluid  distributed  over  the  operator.  This  should  be  done  in 
the  open  air;  keep  the  bottle  corked  up.  We  expect  a  demand 
for  this  article. 

Skunk  Oil     Formerly  there  was  a  good  demand  for  this  oil, 
but  of  late  years  manufacturers  have  used  other 


>^s.rsrjo  wT^LAnr  indic attk  . 

—  Naturdl  wa/k,  even  re^/sfer,  no  hops  or  Jumps,  every  step  registered  J8  to  20  inches  .  - 

^  ^^^^^^ 

Track  of  a  Buck ,  normal  wa/k,  even  register  rather  slow  progress,  15  to  Jdinches  opart. 


~  Easy  /ope  10  to  J2  feet ,       ground  fairfy  /eve/.  - 


.A  good  ga/t  /O  to  (6  feet . . 


—  Oo/ng  at  /lis  best  f  badly  frightened,  or  s/ight/y  \nrounded .  

-Wa/k  of  a  wounded  deer»  uneven  register ,  wounded  in  hip  or  shou/der. 


JWounded  in  hip  or  shoulder  l)ut  not  t>roken  ,  leaps  average  8  feet .  - 
r.^::  r-r.  -:..^:r^ 

_  Trail  of  deer,  tracks  indicate  s/ight  drag  in  snow  of  6  io  6  inchei>^ 


.  Trail  indicates  deer  Jias  his  right  hind  le^  brolcen  . 


-Tra// indicates  that  the  deer  has  his  fore/eg  hroAen  rather  /ow  down . 


Traii  indicates  that  deer  is  shot  Just  back  ofshoulden  v/i//soonJie  down  if  not  too  closeJy  fo//owed . 


j^=^   '-^  \^ 

-•^'■-m^   'xm^   

Trai/ indicates  that  deer  is  shot  /ow  down  Jn  shou/der,  bone  broken  or  had/y  fractured . 


Trai/ indicates  that  a/iima/ is  shot  through  the  intestines  and  /I'ver,  bu//et  probably 
entered  side  s/antingly ,  passing  through  body,  out  near  shoulder.    Short  Jived. 


Bad/y  wounded  inferna//y,   will  soon  be  found  lying  do-vsM  .  ^ 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  257 


oils  which  are  much  cheaper  and  always  obtainable,  therefore  the 

demand  and  use  of  skunk  oil  has  become  less  and  less  every  year. 

Of  late  years  the  surplus  has  been  sold  at  prices  comparing 

with  aged  lard  or  tallow. 

^,  ,  ^  M  Are  used  for  medicinal  and  manufacturing: 
Skunk  Galls.  0^1  11  1 

purposes.      bave  them,  and  when  you  have  a 

quantity,  write  us. 

Musk  Ba  s  bags  obtained  from  muskrats  are  salable, 

some  years  the  demand  is  so  great  that  the  sup- 
ply is  exhausted  and  used  up  before  half  the  summer  is  over. 
Handle  them  the  same  as  you  would  beaver  castors. 

.  .     ,  ^,  The  claws  of  bear,  mountain  lion  and  other 

Animal  Claws.      ^       .  .      ,     '  1^1 

ferocious  animals  have  a  market  value.  By 

no  means  should  they  be  removed  from  the  skin ;  if  animals  of 
this  kind  are  killed  during  the  summer  months  when  the  skin  is 
of  no  value,  they  should  be  cut  off,  cleaned,  and  marketed. 

Elk  Teeth  Certain  teeth  of  this  animal  are  in  very  good 
demand  and  persons  having  any  can  dispose  of 
them  by  communicating  with  members  of  the  ''Elk  Lodge.'' 

Skulls  ^  ready  demand  for  skulls  exists.  Trappers  should 
save  them..  If  skulls  are  saved,  remove  meat  by 
boiling  head  in  water.  All  fat  and  meat  must  be  eliminated.  The 
skulls  from  bear,  mountain  lion,  lynx,  wild  cat,  cougar,  and  oc- 
casionally those  of  the  smaller  carnivorants  are  wanted  by  taxi- 
dermists, naturalists,  and  others.  Skulls  with  horns  from  elk, 
moose,  deer,  mountain  sheep,  mountain  goat  and  smaller  ani- 
mals are  salable,  but  buyers  insist  that  the  skin  should  accom- 
pany the  skulls.  Thousands  of  artificial  skulls  are  annually 
used,  while  the  natural  ones  go  to  decay. 

TO  STILL  HUNT  OR  STALK  A  DEER. 

An  old  buck  is  very  wary,  cunning  or  frail,  as  the  case  may 
be.  If  he  is  followed  by  one  or  more  hounds,  he  runs  at  the  first 
yelp  making  over  hills  and  down  to  the  brook  in  which  he  plunges 
and  goes  down  stream  for  a  mile  or  more,  until  he  feels  it  is  safe 
to  go  on  shore.  He  listens :  no  dogs  within  hearing ;  he  walks  up 
on  a  knoll  away  from  the  brook,  so  he  can  hear  better,  but 
listening  for  some  time.  He  finally  decides  that  everything  is 
all  right,  the  dogs  are  off  the  trail,  and  he  walks  upon  the  ridge 
takes  a  bite  and  lies  down  to  rest,  seeking  a  position  that  may 
be  as  safe  as  possible.  He  looks  up  the  hill,  notes  that  the  wind 
is  blowing  sideways  of  the  mountain ;  he  goes  up  wind  for  half  a 
mile  then  tacks  down  wind  for  forty  or  fifty  rods,  then  tacks 
back  up  the  hill  a  few  rods  higher,  then  back  a  little  higher  up, 
then  with  the  wind  and  up  the  hill  and  stops  and  looks  all  around. 


258 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


Now,  if  there  is  a  hunter  out  looking  for  deer  he  is  going 
along  that  acorn  ridge,  knowing  they  are  fond  of  acorns,  and  as  . 
he  comes  to  this  track  he  looks  it  over;  he  knows  that  it  is  an 
old  buck  for  the  tracks  are  large  and  the  toe  is  round  up ;  the 
bucks  do  more  travelling  than  the  doe  and  on  rocky  gravel  their 
toes  become  rounded.  He  finds  where  he  left  the  ridge ;  he  takes 
the  trail  and  follows  at  a  lively  walk  all  the  way  until  he  finds 


Courtesy  of  We  Were  Seven  Nat.  sportsman 

where  the  deer  tacked ;  from  there  he  goes  slowly,  and  at  the  next 
tack  slower.  Finally  when  he  goes  down  wind  he  turns  ofif  and 
takes  a  large  circle  up  the  mountain,  coming  down  very  carefully 
and  slowly,  his  eyes  taking  in  every  inch  of  ground  as  fast  as  it 
comes  into  view;  working  along  the  edge  of  every  ledge  that 
affords  a  lookout,  moving  very  slowly,  !io  quick  motions  or  noise, 
no  breaking  of  sticks ;  if  he  does  he  stops  short,  looks  in  every 
direction.  He  knows  if  the  deer  heard  the  noise  he  would  get  up 
at  once  and  stand  till  he  saw  something  move.    He  goes  on 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


259 


down  the  ravine  and  up  the  next  raise  to  the  top  of  ridge,  coming 
up  purposely  behind  a  large  tree  standing  on  top  of  ridge,  keep- 
ing as  low  down  as  possible  until  he  reaches  the  tree,  then  raises 
himself  up  full  height  against  the  tree  and  very  slowly  looks 
around.  After  looking  the  ground  all  over  he  says  to  himself, 
"That  buck  is  in  that  little  thicket,  I  believe."  He  gives  a  low 
whistle  and  looks  short.  In  an  instant  the  old  fellow  comes  on 
to  his  feet  and  looks  straight  at  him.  The  hunter  was  prepared 
beforehand,  his  gun  was  in  line  and  ready;  now  for  the  point  of 
his  shoulder  just  in  front  where  all  the  muscles  from  the  neck 
come  together.  The  gun  cracks,  the  buck  drops  but  is  not 
dead.  He  throws  up  his  head,  but  is  unable  to  get  up.  The 
^  hunter  goes  down  and  setting  his  gun  against  a  tree  takes  out 
his  hunting  knife,  steps  one  foot  over  his  neck  and  front  of  his 
forelegs  and  with  his  left  hand  takes  hold  of  a  horn  and  with  his 
right  hand  he  drives  the  knife  in  to  that  little  curve  just  above  the 
brisket  and  the  job  is  done.  The  deer  is  dead  in  a  few  moments, 
— now  to  hang  him  up. 

He  rolls  the  deer  on  to  his  back,  and  makes  an  opening  from 
the  point  of  breast  bone,  cutting  away  the  mid-ribs  and  removing 
heart,  liver  and  lungs.  He  now  takes  the  liver  in  his  hand  and 
makes  two  cuts  across  it;  from  two  to  four  live  blood  suckers 
fall  out;  there  is  no  gall  here  to  cut  away.  Now  this  is  not 
known  to  all  the  hunters  of  the  world,  but  nine  out  of  ten  deer 
have  them. 

Now  to  hang  up  this  deer;  he  is  a  big  one — 250  pounds.  He 
cuts  a  pole  with  his  axe  (always  carried  by  a  good  hunter). 
^  This  pole  is  straight  and  12  feet  long;  he  lays  it  along  the  deer's 
belly  between  his  legs.  Then  he  cuts  a  stick  about  2^^  feet  long, 
1^2  inches  in  diameter,  cuts  a  hole  through  and  puts  the  stick 
through  both  legs  and  over  the  pole;  he  cuts  a  notch  in  pole  to 
keep  it  from  slipping;  then  he  cuts  two  crotches  about  9  feet 
long,  he  sets  them  up  to  end  of  pole  just  behind  the  deer  and 
then  lifts  the  pole  and  crotches  up  till  the  lower  end  of  crotches 
catch;  then  he  sets  first  one  and  then  the  other  up  a  little  at  a 
time  till  the  deer  hangs  as  high  as  is  desired.  He  then  goes  to 
the  nearest  water,  or  if  not  near  any,  snow  will  do,  and  washes 
his  hands.  He  then  fills  his  pipe,  he  could  not  smoke  while  after 
that  deer.  He  then  looks  at  the  compass  that  is  set  in  his  gun 
stock,  gets  his  bearings,  and  marks  the  farther  side  of  a  few 
trees  so  he  can  see  the  marks  coming  back  and  he  goes  home  to 
tell  the  boys  what  a  big  buck  hangs  out  on  the  side  of  old 
Tremble  Mountain. 

J.  W.  Shattuck. 

Hague,  N,  Y, 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide,  261 


TRAPPING  THE  WEASEI    j   ;   ;   ,   ;     .  ^ 

As  soon  as  the  snow  is  on  the  ground  and  the  weather 
sufficiently  cold,  take  as  many  'O'  traps  as  you  have  or  can  carry, 
and  having  a  hatchet,  go  to  the  woods  and  locate  the  runways 
or  some  abode  that  the  weasel  frequents.  If  you  find  such  abode, 
set  one  or  more  traps  in  the  immediate  vicinity  or  therein. 
Place  cotton  or  wool  underneath  the  pan  and  see  that  the  pan 
works  very  easily.  Cover  trap  with  rotten  wood,  etc.  If  you 
are  unable  to,  find  a  hole,  endeavor  to  kill  a  rabbit.  If  you 
are  successful,  take  a  knife  and  strike  the  animal  in  the  neck 
so  as  to  bleed  slowly.  Now  walk  along  dragging  the  animal 
behind;  when  you  come  to  a  convenient  locality,  set  your  trap, 
permitting  the  rabbit's  blood  to  drop  in  the  vicinity ;  if  advisable 
hang  a  small  piece  of  the  rabbit  above  the  trap.  Proceed  until 
all  the  traps  are  used  up. 

N.  C.  A. 

Trapping  the  Weasel. 

A  few  years  ago  I  never  bothered  to  skin  a  white  weasel, 
because  the  skin  was  usually  worth  only  five  or  ten  cents,  but  of 
late  years  I  have  devoted  as  much  time  to  weasel  trapping  as 
to  mink  and  skunk.  I  use  No.  i  traps  which  I  set  close  to  the 
trunk  of  a  tree.  On  the  latter  I  suspend  my  bait  eight  to  ten 
inches  from  the  ground  so  that  the  weasel  will  be  able  to  reach  it 
when  standing  on  his  hind  legs.  The  meat  is  securely  fastened 
to  the  tree,  which  forces  the  weasel  to  jump  around. 

One  funny  experience  I  had  last  winter :  I  saw  a  weasel 
run  into  a  hollow  tree.  The  opening  was  no  more  than  a  good 
sized  knot  hole.  I  thought  to  myself  "Ah,  ha,  Mr.  Weasel, 
Tve  got  you."  I  immediately  went  to  work,  took  my  hatchet 
and  made  a  large  excavation  and  stapled  the  trap  with  the  pan 
facing  the  knot  hole  to  the  tree.  I  was  careful  so  as  to  give  plenty 
of  room  for  the  jaws  to  close.  The  next  morning  when  I  came  the 
trap  had  a  firm  hold  of  Mr.  Weasel's  head ;  in  fact  the  bones  were 
considerably  bruised  after  I  had  taken  ofif  the  skin. 

F.  C.  Marsh. 

TRAPPING  THE  MINK. 

Mr.  Leuhrs,  an  Illinois  trapper,  writes  as  follows :  'To 
become  a  successful  mink  trapper  it  is  absolutely  necessary  that 
one  study  the  habits  and  thoroughly  acquaint  himself  with  the 
locality,  otherwise  he  will  not  make  a  success.  I  have  no  par- 
ticular secrets,  but  have  been  successful  and  have  trapped  from 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico  to  the  northern  part  of  Canada.  Last  year 
I  caught  121  mink  from  the  4th  of  Nov.  1905,  to  20th  of  Jan.  1906, 


262 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


and  all  within  thirty  or  forty  miles  of  Chicago.  The  rules  that 
I  follow  in  trapping  mink  are  as  follows : 

''When  going  over  strange  ground  upon  which  I  intend  to 
trap  I  study  the  watery  shores  of  the  lakes,  streams,  swamps 
and  creeks  for  their  natural  haunts.  I  take  special  notice  of  their 
runs,  paths,  dens,  feeding  places  and  dung  heaps  and  make  it 
a  point  never  to  disturb  them.  When  placing  my  traps  always 
disturb  as  little  as  possible  and  approach  the  place  by  way  of 
water.  Then  I  set  my  traps  always  level  with  the  ground  and 
if  possible  a  little  deeper,  especially  if  the  surrounding  soil  per- 
mits this.  I  excavate  an  opening  the  size  of  the  trap  which  I 
pad  out  with  leaves  or  similar  rubbish,  then  place  the  trap  there- 
in. If  a  water  set  is  preferred  the  trap  must  be  even  with  the 
ground  about  one-half  to  two  inches  below  the  level  of  the  water. 
Some  soft  substance  must  be  placed  below  the  pan,  otherwise 
sand  will  fill  in  and  the  trap  will  not  be  sprung.  In  water  sets 
I  prefer  the  sliding  or  spring  pole  or  wire.  When  making  a 
dry  land  set  I  cover  trap  with  fine  leaves  or  other  material  that 
I  happen  to  find  in  the  locality.  Occasionally  I  use  tip-ups. 
My  three  best  mink  sets  are  as  follows : 

Set  No.  I.  Dig  up  nice,  loose  ground  along  the  bank  of 
a  lake  or  running  water  so  that  it  looks  as  though  some  animal 
had  started  to  dig  a  den,  the  pile  being  large  enough  to  hold 
a  No.  ij^  Newhouse  or  No.  2  B.  &  L.  trap.  I  place  cotton 
or  wool,  or  the  hair  of  rabbits  under  the  pan ;  never  pack  it  under 
but  place  loosely  under  the  pan.  Of  course  before  setting  the 
trap  I  make  an  opening  of  the  required  size  on  top  of  pile  and 
then  when  trap  is  set,  smooth  off  the  pile  and  cover  trap  with 
earth,  etc.    No  bait  is  required. 

Set.  No.  2.  I  find  a  spring  or  open  running  water.  I  place 
the  traps  so  that  they  are  covered  by  water  about  two 
inches.  For  bait  I  take  three  or  four  little  fish  (shiners  or 
perch  will  do),  which  I  fasten  with  wire  to  the  pan,  being  careful 
not  to  kill  them.  At  other  times  I  use  frog  or  crab.  The  mink 
will  naturally  go  after  the  live  bait  and  in  so  doing  becomes  a 
victim.  Bear  in  mind  that  a  raccoon,  fox  or  otter  may  spring 
the  trap,  conseqently  a  strong  trap  is  recommended. 

Set  No.  3.  When  the  creeks  are  all  frozen  over  with  ice, 
take  your  hatchet  or  axe  and  chop  a  hole  about  four  inches  wide 
clear  across  the  creek,  then  take  some  stakes,  drive  them  about  an 
inch  apart  from  one  side  to  the  other.  In  the  center  leave  an 
opening  of  sufficient  size  permitting  the  mink  to  pass  through. 
If  the  water  is  too  deep,  fill  up  partly  with  grass,  stones  or  mud. 
I  use  three  traps  in  this  set.  Have  often  had  three  minks.  1 
set  one  on  each  end  and  one  in  the  middle.    These  stakes  must 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


263 


be  long  enough  to  reach  out  of  the  ice.  The  bait  I  use  is  fish, 
birds,  squirrels,  rabbit,  muskrat,  etc.  Bait  however,  is  unneces- 
sary. If  used,  I  always  place  it  in  a  natural  position  and  always 
so  that  the  animal  in  order  to  reach  it  must  pass  over  the  trap. 

Trapping  the  Mink. 

'T  will  write  you  my  method  of  trapping  the  mink,  during 
the  rutting  season,  which  you  may  use  in  your  Trapper's  Guide," 
writes  Mr.  W.  Snow  of  Boscobel,  Wis. 

''During  the  early  winter,  mink  should  be  trapped  by  setting 
the  traps  in  their  runways  and  holes,  or  by  making  a  hole  at 
the  edge  of  the  water  where  their  tracks  are  seen.  For  bait 
nothing  is  better  than  the  head  and  forepart  of  the  fresh  musk- 
rat  or  a  fresh  fish.  It  should  be  fastened  in  the  back  part  of 
the  hole,  by  running  a  forked  stick  through,  and  the  trap  set 
at  the  entrance  so  the  pan  of  trap  is  about  one-half  inch  under 
water.  If  the  chain  is  then  fastened  to  a  sliding  pole  the  mink 
will  be  drowned  and  in  good  condition.  In  case  their  holes  near 
water  cannot  be  found,  make  an  artificial  abode  with  stones, 
roots  of  trees,  bark,  logs,  earth,  etc.,  on  the  shore.  The  rust 
and  smell  of  iron  should  be  removed  from  the  traps,  first  by 
greasing,  and  burning  ofif  the  grease  in  a  blaze,  being  careful 
not  to  overheat  the  springs,  and  then  boiling  them  in  a  kettle 
of  water  and  hemlock  or  willow  bark.  Place  bait  in  hole  or 
hollow  log  as  before,  and  make  a  place  with  your  hatchet  to 
set  a  No.  i  Newhouse  trap  so.  the  jaws  will  be  about  level  with 
the  ground.  Cover  all  up,  being  careful  to  put  very  fine  material 
around  the  jaws  so  the  trap  will  spring. 

''Take  all  the  musk  from  the  mink  you  catch  this  way  and 
save  it  until  the  last  part  of  winter,  during  the  rutting  or  mat- 
ing season.  The  musk  is  found  in  small  bags  near  the  tail  of 
minks.  Put  bag  and  all  in  a  small  bottle  and  cork  tightly. 
Then  if  there  is  a  mild  spell  late  in  January  or  in  February, 
take  a  clean  trap  and  tie  a  piece  of  muskrat  skin  or  half  rotten 
wood  to  the  pan  of  trap  and  put  on  it  a  few  drops  of  mink  musk. 
Go  to  a  marsh  where  there  are  a  lot  of  muskrat  houses.  By 
this  time  of  year  the  mink  will  have  holes  in  some  of  their 
houses,  or  find  a  runway  in  a  log  or  along  the  edge  of  the 
marsh.  Dig  out  a  little  place  with  your  hatchet  to  set  the  trap 
in  and  cover  spring  and  chain  completely.  The  best  thing  to 
cover  with  is  the  moss,  plants  and  stuff  from  the  inside  of  a 
muskrat  house  as  they  like  the  smell  of  this  stuff  and  it  covers 
up  the  smell  of  iron  if  there  is  much  left  on  the  trap.  Place 
a  few  large  leaves  over  the  jaws  and  pan.  If  a  mink  comes 
anywhere  near  he  is  sure  to  smell  the  musk  and  be  crazy  to 
get  at  it,  and  while  scratching  away  the  leaves  is  pretty  sure  to 


HOLLOW  LOG  with  25TE£L  TRAPS /fOUSED.  tfinK^MARTEN  or  WEASEL  TRAP. 

Protects  traps  from  weather  and fnuites        2 inch  hole,  "i-horje  shoe  naik .  Use  bait, 
the  Mink  to  enter  lot^.  ^ 


^  JTEEL  TRAP  SET  FOR  LYfiX  , 


MUSKRAT  TRAP. 
Sink  watertight  barrel  on  ed^e  of  La/re  where 
the/r  houses  are  numerous,  so  as  to  protrude  3 to  4 

inches  ahoi^e  water  levet.  Arrange  two  5 inch  tiles  ,   ,     _  .         ^  m  -        c  c 

atso  trap  doors  as  per  Jftustration  .  Baft  w/fh  Parsnips,  f/^f.d  a/so  for  ftarten  and  Mink ;  jffor 
Porafoes.also  chunk  of mustfrat meat .  The  Huskrat  ^^^o,  house  and  trap  shoutd  be 

orN/nk,  on  stepping  upon  drop  door,  tumbles  info  barrel.  ^"^3//er. 
Cover  tites  and  barrel  with  branches .  ,  ^^^^ 


SmPEAND  LtFTAtiPAItGEt^EnT. 
Good forff/nk,Marten  and  Raccoon. 
Use  bait. 


A  SNARE  Ma  SPRtnC  POLE  ' 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


265 


get  a  foot  in  the  trap.  Fasten  the  chain  to  a  pole  (not  very 
heavy)  about  three  or  four  feet  from  one  end.  This  will  prevent 
him  from  going  under  the  ice;  after  he  has  pulled  it  a  ways 
it  will  get  tangled  up  in  brush  and  he  will  be  too  weak  to  pull 
out.'' 

Trapping  the  Mink. 

One  making  mink  trapping  a  speciality  writes  as  follows: 
'*To  be  a  successful  mink  trapper  it  is  necessary  to  study  the 

mink  and  his  habits.'' 

"i.    Mink  follow  streams,  along  lake  shores,  are  found  in 

holes,  excavations,  dens,  crevices,   and   in   or   about  muskrat 

houses." 

"2.  Set  your  trap.  No.  i  or  No.  2  steel  trap,  in  or  about 
above  mentioned  abodes,  and  use  chicken,  rabbit  or  any  other 
good  bait,  either  scented  or  natural ;  place  beyond  the  trap 
in  the  hole,  also  put  above  the  trap.  The  animal  will  go  in 
after  the  bait  and  becomes  caught. 

''3.  Take  the  captured  mink  (be  sure  he  is  dead)  and  use 
him  as  a  decoy.  With  left  hand  take  body  about  upper  part 
of  hind  legs,  and  with  your  right  hand  pull  tail  back  and  squeeze 
with  left  hand,  and  allow  drippings  to  fall  about  trap  set,  also 
rub  hind  part  within  abode.  This  will  make  a  strong  scent, 
and  other  minks  will  readily  enter  hole  believing  that  one 
is  inside,  also  drag  mink  on  ground  from  one  trap  to  another. 

''4.  Use  fine  grass  in  covering  up  the  trap,  and  always 
place  cotton,  dry  leaves,  and  similar  soft  substances  under  the 
pan;  cover  lightly. 

Trapping  the  Mink. 

My  experience  in  trapping  dates  back  to  1857.  During  this 
period  I  must  have  trapped  thousands  of  mink  and  large  num- 
bers of  foxes,  trapped  and  killed  bears,  mountain  lions,  and  in  my 
time  have  seen  plenty  of  buffalo  and  other  large  game.  To  be  suc- 
cessful, I  have  always  studied  the  habits  of  the  animal.  Steel 
traps  in  my  time  were  not  plentiful,  and  I  was  obliged  to  resort 
to  home-made  contrivances  very  often. 

Some  years  ago,  notwithstanding  my  long  experience,  I  was 
unable  to  catch  a  certain  mink.  I  tried  all  methods,  set  the 
steel  trap  up-side  down,  used  snares,  deadfalls,  but  all  to  no 
avail.  I  gave  it  up  for  the  time  being,  and  my  son  tried  his 
hand  with  the  same  result.  He  finally  made  a  box  14x16x22 
with  glass  on  two  sides;  into  this  box  was  placed  a  live  chicken, 
and  after  the  first  slight  snow,  the  box,  chicken  and  all  was 
carried  to  the  place  that  the  mink  frequented  almost  every  day. 
The  traps  had  been  set  quite  a  number  of  days  before,  one 


266 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


securely  fastened  to  a  spring  pole,  the  other  to  a  drag.  The 
box  was  set  between  the  two  traps  and  a  quantity  of  loose  brush 
thrown  over  it  so  as  to  make  it  look  natural.  The  same  day 
it  snowed  considerably. 

One  of  us  visited  the  box  every  day.  Tracks  were  seen 
the  second  day,  but  the  mink  did  not  attempt  to  get  the  chicken 
or  neared  the  concealed  traps,  but  seemed  to  walk  in  a  circle 
about  the  box.  Next  day,  however,  much  to  our  surprise  Mr. 
Mink  was  hanging  five  feet  in  the  air.  It  was  a  large  male 
mink  and  at  one  time  must  have  been  nipped  in  a  steel  trap. 
The  skin  was  sold  for  $4.00. 


HOLLOW  LOG     STEEL  TRAP  SET. 


When  the  trapper  observes  mink,  marten,  fisher,  opossum  or  similar 
animals  to  frequent  hollow  logs,  the  entrance  of  which  is  two  to  five  feet 
above  the  ground,  an  arrangement  as  above  illustrated  is  strictly  proper. 
The  steel  trap  should  be  covered  with  moss,  leaves  or  grass.  Place  bait  at 
or  about  opening. 

Supposing  some  trapper  who  has  had  the  same  kind  of  ill 
luck  try  this  method.  R.  B.  A. 

Trapping  the  Mi'nk. 

Mr.  Frank  Becht,  of  Webster,  S.  Dak.,  sends  a  few  of 
his  ways  of  catching  mink. 

''As  I  use  the  Stop  Thief  Wire  Trap,  I  make  a  hole  in  bank 
of  creek  or  stream,  three  or  four  inches  deep,  and  place  a  small 
bird  in  back  end  of  it  for  bait,  and  then  put  trap  over  hole;  but 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  267 


if  trapping  in  common  sloughs  where  the  mink's  holes  can  be 
easily  found,  place  your  trap  over  hole  in  such  a  way  that  the 
trigger  or  trip  of  trap  will  be  close  to  the  bottom  of  hole.  Then 
place  a  bunch  of  feathers  about  four  inches  away  from  trap 
saturated  with  decoy  or  beaver's  oil,  and  oil  of  amber  for  bait. 
If  a  common  spring  trap  is  used,  make  a  stick  about  sixteen 
inches  high,  place  a  roasted  chicken  on  top  of  stick,  and  set  your 
trap  below.  The  roasted  chicken  attracts  the  mink,  and  when 
there  he  will  walk  about,  sniffing  up  towards  the  bait,  and  be 
sure  to  step  in  the  trap." 

Trapping  the  Mink. 

My  favorite  way  of  capturing  mink,  writes  Mr.  Patrick 
Laughrey,  West  Broughton,  Canada,  is  to  drive  a  row  of  old 
sticks  across  the  mouth  of  a  small  stream,  leaving  a  small  gap 
at  center,  in  which  gap  I  set  my  trap.  I  use  No.  i  B.  &  L. 
which  I  set  about  one  inch  below  the  level  of  the  water.  Trap 
should  be  covered  in  the  usual  way. 

I  have  also  been  very  successful  in  setting  my  traps  along  a 
small  stream  where  the  bank  is  steep.  I  set  my  trap  close  to 
the  water  edge  on  one  side  with  a  level  beach  on  the  other  side. 
I  make  a  little  wall  of  stones  so  that  the  end  reaches  the  water. 
The  trap  is  placed  at  the  edge  of  the  wall  below  the  level  of  the 
water  and  should  a  mink  come  along  he  will  invariably  pass 
by  the  edge  of  the  wall  and  of  course  becomes  a  victim.  I  use 
no  bait  or  scent.  The  trap  is  covered.  Caught  seventeen  mink 
this  season. 

Trapping  the  Mink. 

Have  had  much  success  in  trapping  mink  on  my  farm  and 
in  its  vicinity,  and  on  one  occasion  caught  a  wolf.  My  method 
is  as  follows :  'T  take  a  dead  chicken  or  any  large  piece  of  meat, 
whether  old  or  fresh  makes  no  difference.  Bury  this  in  the 
ground  so  that  part  of  it  protrudes  and  upon  this  set  your  trap. 
If  you  can  spare  more  than  one  trap,  set  these  about  six  to 
eight  inches  from  the  meat.  The  traps  are  to  be  buried  and 
covered  up.  Be  sure  and  put  some  wool  under  the  pan.  The 
animal  in  locating  the  meat  will  naturally  become  caught. 

N.  C.  A. 

Trapping  the  Mink. 

Mr.  Lauersdorf,  a  Wisconsin  trapper,  writes  as  follows : 
"Take  a  skinned  muskrat,  tie  a  string  about  five  feet  long  to  it 
and  drag  it  along  on  the  ground  where  mink  are  known  to  run, 
and  when  you  find  a  good  place  to  set  the  trap,  hang  it  on  three 
stakes  driven  into  the  ground  and  extending  six  to  eight  inches 


268 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


above  the  ground;  place  your  trap  underneath.  The  mink,  upon 
finding  the  track,  will  shortly  follow  it,  and  when  it  comes  to 
the  muskrat  will  spring  the  trap  and  become  caught. 

At  other  times  a  trap  can  be  placed  about  two  inches  under 
water  along  shores  that  mink  frequent.  My  method  of  making 
decoy  is  as  follows:  I  procure  small  fish  or  minnows,  which  I 
cut  up  into  small  pieces  and  place  them  in  a  wide  necked  bottle 
and  with  them  about  one-fourth  to  one-third  angle  worms.  When 
bottle  is  three-quarters  full,  fill  remainder  with  rain  water.  Cork 
up  and  expose  bottle  to  the  sun.  When  rancid,  decoy  is  ready  to 
use.  Put  a  few  drops  of  the  above  decoy  on  the  bait  or  above 
the  trap.  Mink,  marten,  muskrat  and  coon  are  attracted  by  this 
decoy. 


Another  simple  arrangement.  Bait  with  a  rabbit,  dead  fowl,  or  piece 
of  muskrat.  Bait  should  be  fastened  to  the  ground  so  as  to  detain  the 
victim.  To  spring  the  trap  the  animal  must  either  step  on  the  spindle  or 
press  it  down  with  his  belly  on  entering  the  enclosure.  Suitable  for  all 
classes  of  animals,  especially  the  badger,  skunk,  wolf,  fox,  etc.  A  steel 
trap  set  in  front  of  entrance  makes  the  visitor's  capture  doubly  sure. 


Ascertain  a  den  where  a  mink  frequents  and  set  your  trap  at 
the  opening,  concealing  it  in  the  usual  way.  A  piece  of  muskrat 
or  some  other  bait  thrown  carelessly  in  the  opening  ten  to  twelve 
inches,  is  sufficient  bait.  Should  the  animal  pass  that  vicinity  the 
bait  will  attract  him,  especially  if  he  be  a  strange  animal,  and  in 
passing  into  the  abode  to  obtain  the  bait,  will  spring  the  trap.  If 
the  abode  is  inhabited,  the  mink  in  departing  is  likely  to  spring  the 
trap,  as  well  as  the  one  entering.'' 


DEADFALL. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide,  269 


Trapping  the  Mink. 

This  interesting  article  we  received  from  Mr.  T.  Wolfe,  an 
Iowa  trapper  living  at  Tabor. 

'Terhaps  this  most  valuable  little  fur  animal  found  in  most 
sections  of  the  U.  S.  and  to  the  far  north  in  British  possessions, 
frequenting  lakes,  streams  and  small  rivulets,  has  puzzled  more 
trappers  than  are  willing  to  admit  because  of  its  keen  scent  and 
extremely  cautious  nature.  I  think  I  can  say,  who  should  not 
say  it,  that  I  have  been  fairly  successful  in  trapping  for  mink, 
having  caught  as  high  as  $436.00  worth  in  a  single  week,  making 
trapping  remunerative  as  well  as  a  pleasure.  Much  has  been 
said  about  the  kind  of  bait,  scent,  etc.,  to  be  used.  The  best  bait 
is  fish,  muskrat,  sapsucker,  prairie  chicken  and  quail.  When  a 
mink  will  not  pay  attention  to  any  of  these  it  is  evident  that  it  is 
not  hungry.  Many  so-called  scents  serve  only  to  frighten  the 
mink  away.  I  once  cayght  $436.00  worth  in  a  week,  and  they 
were  not  plentiful  to  speak  of  either,  but  did  it  by  diligence  and 
caution. 

''Never  set  a  trap  for  mink  that  has  the  scent  of  other  animals 
on  it,  for  that  will  at  once  arouse  their  suspicion.  If  you  are 
trapping  on  a  stream,  it  may  sometimes  become  necessary  to  set 
in  the  water,  although  this  is  objectionable,  for  the  mink  in 
trying  to  release  himself,  is  apt  to  cover  his  fur  with  mud  and  if 
cased  in  this  condition  is  most  likely  to  grade  as  damaged  fur. 
The  proper  thing  to  do  in  a  case  of  this  kind  is  to  carry  the  mink 
to  camp,  get  a  basin  of  warm  water  and  thoroughly  wash  and 
dry  the  fur  before  casing. 

"When  minks  frequent  lakes,  if  there  are  rushes  and  rat 
houses,  go  along  the  borders  where  they  are  most  likely  to  travel 
and  select  a  rat  house  well  surrounded  by  flags  and  rushes,  care- 
fully cut  a  place  in  the  edge  of  the  house  for  a  trap,  then 
place  the  bait  first  so  the  mink  will  have  to  go  over  the  trap  to 
reach  it.  Always  turn  the  spring  of  the  trap  toward  the  bait 
or  in  such  a  manner  that  the  mink  will  not  be  standing  over  the 
spring  of  the  trap  when  it  throws  as  the  springs  are  apt  to  throw 
its  feet  out  of  the  jaws  of  the  trap. 

''A  friend  of  mine  once  trapped  for  a  large  mink,  which  fre- 
quented a  slough,  the  surrounding  country  being  flat  and  more 
or  less  marshy.  Not  being  able  to  catch  it  he  turned  it  over  to 
me  and  it  was  with  some  misgiving  I  undertook  the  job  as  I 
knew  him  to  be  quite  apt ;  but  selecting  a  few  good  traps,  I  went 
up  the  slough  one  morning  after  a  fresh  fall  of  snow.  I  found 
the  mink  had  been  out  in  much  evidence;  following  the  tracks 
up  I  soon  came  to  where  the  mink  had  struck  across  the  bottom ; 
still  following  I  soon  came  to  where  he  went  into  a  hole  that 


270         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


apparently  went  straight  down.  Selecting  a  good  strong  trap 
and  carefully  clearing  away  the  frost  and  snow,  I  placed  the  trap 
upside  down  over  the  hole,  taking  care  to  have  the  pan  of  the 
trap  exactly  over  the  hole.  Next  morning  I  had  a  very  valuable 
mink.    I  have  caught  quite  a  number  of  minks  in  this  way. 

''Minks  like  to  follow  old  fence  rows  that  border  the  banks 
of  lakes  and  sloughs,  making  it  easy  to  take  them  by  setting  a 
trap  by  a  fence  post  and  tacking  the  bait  to  the  post  just 
above  the  trap.  This  rule  will  hold  good  along  the  banks  of 
wooded  streams  where  the  trap  can  be  fastened  to  small  saplings 
or  trees,  or  to  a  toggle.  Every  successful  trapper  should  carry 
a  good  hatchet  and  wire  staples  as  there  is  nothing  better  than 
wire  staples  to  fasten  to  a  toggle  or  other  convenient  things.'' 


A  peculiar  yet  successful  arrangement  in  capturing  various  animals 
from  the  little  weasel  to  the  black  bear.  This  deadfall  is  continually  used 
by  trappers,  especially  throughout  Canada,  chiefly  in  timber  sections. 


I  find  the  mink  a  rather  shy  animal,  but  have  never  had  any 
great  trouble  in  catching  him.  One  of  my  ways  is  to  set  my 
traps  in  old  muskrat  volts,  pinning  my  bait  down  and  well  back 
in  the  hole  with  a  sharp  stick,  using  for  bait  rabbit,  bird,  and  fish. 
Always  have  your  bait  fresh  and  clean.  I  also  find  the  outlet  of 
tiled  drainage,  which  seems  a  splendid  place  to  catch  both  mink 
and  skunk,  always  making  a  neat,  careful  set  close  up  to  the  tile, 
and  if  an  extra  large  one,  set  well  up  in  the  tile  without  bait. 

Another  plan  I  find  very  good  is  to  go  to  old  field  road  bridges 
that  are  down  low  to  the  water  and  take  up  one  of  the  planks. 
Set  your  trap  in  two  inches  of  water.  Leave  a  small  nail  in  one 
of  the  stringers  and  hang  your  bait  with  a  string  directly  over 
your  trap,  and  six  inches  above  it.  Also  you  will  find  under  the 
roots  of  large  trees  that  have  been  partly  washed  out^  a  good 
place  to  set  traps  with  bait. 


DEADFALL. 


Trapping  the  Mink. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


271 


The  mink  is  a  great  traveler  and  hunter  and  he  frequents  every 
nook  and  corner  and  if  you  keep  all  these  places  well  occupied  by 
careful,  neat  set  traps,  you  will  have  your  share  of  success.  You 
will  find  a  great  many  of  these  plans  to  be  good  and  successful 
ones.  Also  you  will  learn  some  of  your  best  plans  by  careful  study 
and  practical  experience,  the  same  as  in  all  other  business.  You 
have  to  adapt  your  plans  to  suit  the  country  you  trap  in,  such 
as  a  prairie  trapper,  or  a  timber,  or  mountain  trapper. 

Charles  Sessions, 

Clinton,  III, 

Deadfall       ^  S'^^^  3'^^  herewith  my  method  of  making  a 
Trigger.       trigger  for  the  deadfall.    This  trigger  I  believe  to 
be  entirely  new  to  the  outside  world,  although  it 
has  been  in  use  a  good  many  years  by  two  old  Canadian  trappers 


who  were  the  originators.  I  got  this  trigger  from  one  of  the 
trappers  and  have  tested  it  thoroughly  on  mink,  marten,  etc.,  and 
find  it  so  far  ahead  of  any  other  that  I  use  it  entirely. 

Some  animals  go  into  a  pen  for  nothing  else  than  to  smell 
the  bait  or  to  investigate.  This  trap  catches  these  fellows,  where- 
as the  other  triggers  do  not.  The  pen  of  this  trap  wants  to  be 
short  so  that  the  animal  cannot  get  in  too  far.  The  bait  should 
be  stuck  or  hung  up  on  back  of  pen,  say  six  inches  high,  for 
mink,  marten,  etc.  The  animal  never  fails  to  step  or  rub  against 
trigger  in  reaching  up  to  smell  bait.  Always  keep  the  guides  a 
distance  from  the  trigger  to  prevent  jamming,  or  use  one  set  of 
guides.    The  treadle  also  wants  to  be  slightly  turned  in  pen. 

Ralph  Wolverton. 

Cascade,  B.  C. 

Trapping  the  Mink. 

To  capture  mink,  I  follow  the  banks  of  streams  where  the 
water  nears  a  bank  two  or  three  feet  high.    I  then  dig  a  hole  in 


272 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


the  bank  a  foot  wide  and  two  feet  deep.  Then  proceed  to  build 
a  sort  of  wharf  out  of  stones.  Some  of  the  dirt  I  place  on  top 
of  the  bank  and  when  my  sets  are  complete  I  take  handfuls  of 
the  dirt  and  strew  over  the  setting  so  as  to  eradicate  the  foot- 
prints and  to  make  everything  seem  fresh.  The  bait  is  placed 
within  the  abode,  excepting  small  pieces  are  carefully  strewn  close 
to  the  water  which  has  a  tendency  to  attract  the  animal.  The 
trap  is  placed  a  few  inches  within  the  abode,  the  pan  facing  the 
stream.  There  is  no  harm  in  dragging  the  bait  in  the  immediate 
vicinity,  finally  leading  it  into  the  hole.  The  trap  should  be 
securely  covered  with  rotten  wood  and  lastly  with  fine  earth. 

For  scent  I  use  fish  oil  made  by  me  during  the  summer  time 
from  minnows,  shiners  and  perch.  If  in  position  to  obtain  a 
female  mink  during  the  running  season,  the  matrix  of  the  animal 
is  placed  in  a  bottle,  either  separate  or  with  the  fish  oil.  Have 
had  good  success.  As  much  as  possible  I  use  spring  poles,  but 
if  the  weather  is  mild  I  arrange  to  fix  up  some  way  to  drown  the 
animal.  N.  C.  A. 

Trapping  the  Mink. 

''Many  years  have  now  past  but  I  still  remember  one  February 
morning  at  three  o'clock  my  father  yelled — ''Roll  out  Son,  if 
you  want  to  go  the  round  with  me  this  morning."  A  snow  storm 
was  in  full  bloom.  After  a  hasty  breakfast  of  corn  bread,  veni- 
son and  black  cofifee,  we  both  swung  out  on  the  trail.  Father 
was  trapping  for  mink  and  promised  to  take  me  along.  This 
was  mating  season  and  about  one  mile  up  stream,  close  to  a  pond 
where  a  small  stream  emptied  into  the  Tygart  we  came  to  a  small 
hollow  log  and  in  this  log  was  a  female  mink.  On  the  outside 
father  had  set  three  Newhouse  traps  and  two  of  them  were 
sprung  each  holding  a  male  mink.  Farther  up  the  trap  line  we 
came  to  a  hollow  tree.  Inside  this  father  had  imprisoned  an- 
other female  mink.  He  had  set  five  traps  on  the  outside  and 
three  of  them  were  sprung,  each  holding  a  large  male  mink ;  five 
minks  in  less  than  two  miles  trapping.  I  was  small  then  but  I 
learned  a  secret  that  morning  that  easily  knocks  out  any  method 
known  to  the  trapping  world.  .  Brother  Trapper  you  can  readily 
understand  why  these  minks  were  imprisoned.  The  next  thing 
is  how  to  catch  the  female  mink,  alive  and  unharmed. 

Get  four  boards  six  inches  wide  and  nail  them  together 
forming  a  long  box.  In  one  end  make  a  trap  door  by  inserting 
piece  of  board  nine  inches  long ;  fasten  the  end  of  the  board  with 
leather  hinges,  thus  you  have  a  door  that  inclines  toward  the 
center  of  box.  Take  a  stick  the  size  of  a  pencil  two  inches  long, 
and  set  upright.  Now  you  have  the  door  set.  If  you  have  already 
located  den — which  every  old  trapper  knows  is  easily  done  by 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide,  273 


certain  signs — insert  the  trap  with  door  raised  about  one  foot 
into  the  hole.  If  you  cannot  find  such  a  den,  make  one,  into 
which  after  placing  the  box,  close  up  all  other  openings  and  see 
that  box  is  solid.  Let  swing  door  rest  on  pencil.  No  bait  is 
necessary.  The  female  mink  will  enter  in  order  to  hide  from 
the  male  and  you  have  your  mink  as  sure  as  shooting. 

You  will  ask :  ''Why  can't  we  catch  the  male  mink  by  this 
method?"  Simply  because  the  male  mink  is  rarely,  if  ever,  in 
their  home  dens  at  this  season  as  they  are  travelling  and  seek 
drifts,  etc.,  by  day. 

Wes  Ray, 

Olive  Hill,  Ky. 
Trapping  the  Mink  and  Muskrat. 

For  trapping  mink  in  a  water  set,  find  a  shallow  place  about 
one  or  two  inches  deep  then  take  your  bait  (a  piece  of  muskrat, 
bird  or  fish  is  good),  run  a  stick  through  it  and  stake  to  the  bot- 
tom so  that  the  bait  will  just  stick  out.  Set  your  trap  alongside 
of  it  and  cover  trap  with  wet  leaves  or  grass.  Do  not  make  any 
tracks  on  bank  but  wade  up  the  creek  in  order  not  to  disturb 
anything. 

Second"  Fii^d  a  stream  about  two  feet  wide  that  flows  into  a 
lake,  pond  or  larger  stream ;  stake  it  off  with  small 
twigs  or  weeds,  leaving  a  small  open  place  in  center  about  four 
inches  wide  in  which  place  a  No.  i  or  ij^  trap.  When  the  mink  is 
travelling  up  this  small  stream  he  will  go  through  the  open  place 
and  get  caught. 

Third-     Find  a  hollow  log  along  the  stream,  and  set  your  trap 
so  it  will  be  level  with  the  bottom  of  the  log;  cover 
with  decayed  wood  from  the  same  log  so  it  will  look  natural. 
Mink  like  to  run  through  anything  hollow. 

Muskrat     ^  good  way  to  catch  muskrats  is  to  make  a  box 
about  four  feet  long  and  one  foot  wide  with  wire 


274  Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


end.  A  roller,  or  movable  stick  is  fitted  into  each  end  and  by 
gimlet  hole,  wires  fastened  thereto  large  enough  to  incline  at 
forty-five  degrees  as  shown  in  illustration. 

The  animal  lifts  the  drops  in  going  in  from  either  end,  biit 
cannot  get  out.  Set  this  in  a  small  stream  and  arrange  it  so 
he  will  have  to  go  through  the  box  to  get  past.  This  can  be  done 
by  driving  stakes  into  the  bottom  along  the  box.  I  have  caught 
as  high  as  five  in  one  night  in  this  way. 

Frank  Bander, 

S.  Williamsport,  Pa. 
Trapping  the  Mink. 

I  have  been  very  successful  in  trapping  mink ;  I  give  you 
herewith  my  method :  Find  a  mink  den ;  take  a  rabbit,  fox  or 
red  squirrel  and  a  small  bush  or  tree  (the  same  kind  that  is  near 
the  den  or  hole)  and  run  the  stake  through  the  gambrels  of  the 
rabbit.  Drive  the  stake  about  one  foot  from  the  hole ;  dig  out 
a  place  just  large  enough  for  the  trap  about  midway  between  the 
bait  and  the  hole;  place  another  trap  on  the  other  side  of  your 
bait.  Sink  this  trap  in  level  with  the  top  of  the  ground,  put  some 
fine  grass  in  the  bottom  and  place  trap  on  the  grass  so  it  will  set 
solid,  and  cover  with  leaves  or  grass.  I  prefer  a  No.  trap. 
Use  a  bush  for  a  stake  and  only  trim  enough  to  drive  it  in  the 
ground. 

E.  N.  Dabney, 

Bristolville,  O. 

Trapping  the  Mink. 

The  best  and  most  successful  way  to  trap  mink  is  to  find 
where  they  have  been  running  and  track  them  to  their  den  and 
if  same  cannot  be  found  set  your  trap  (No.  i  or  1I/2)  in  the 
freshest  of  the  tracks ;  if  they  are  in  the  sand  or  diggable  earth, 
excavate  a  place  large  enough  to  hold  trap  and  chain  and  arrange 
to  have  pan  level  with  the  surrounding  earth.  Cover  pan  and 
trap  with  loose  leaves  and  sprinkle  fine  earth  over  leaves  so  as 
to  cover  trap  completely,  but  at  the  same  time  so  that  earth  or 
leaves  do  not  interfere  when  trap  is  sprung.  Quite  often  I  place 
the  ring  through  a  limb,  which  I  insert  in  the  earth  to  resemble 
a  small  growing  tree.  After  this  is  done  remove  all  possible 
traces  and  leave  place  in  natural  state.  Bait  with  fish,  birds  or 
part  of  a  muskrat.  If  you  have  reason  to  believe  that  the  mink 
that  you  are  trying  to  capture  is  one  that  has  been  pinched  before, 
you  can  take  it  as  coming  from  an  old  experienced  trapper,  that 
a  job  is  before  you,  and  in  this  respect  a  very  good  location  in 
which  to  set  your  trap  is  in  an  old  muskrat  house,  especially 
if  the  mink  is  in  the  habit  of  going  in  or  ^o\xt  the  house.  If 


Andersch  Bros:  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


275 


there  is  no  opening  on  the  top  of  the  house,  make  one.  Pull 
up  some  of  the  grasses,  weeds,  etc.,  that  are  usually  within  a 
muskrat  house  and  arrange  your  trap  about  the  wall  and  cover 
with  grasses,  etc.  It  is  preferable  to  place  two  or  three  traps, 
the  more  the  better — and  the  quicker  you  are  likely  to  capture 
the  sly  thief.  Bait  with  bird  or  muskrat  and  promiscuously  strew 
feathers  about  the  traps  and  their  immediate  vicinity.  In  addition 
I  use  Oil  of  Anise  and  the  scent  of  the  female  mink. 

Heinrich  Bros., 

Baldwin,  N.  Y. 

Set  for  Minks,  Coons,  etc. 

Having  noticed  that  where  a  tree  or  log  has  fallen  or  been 
placed  across  a  brook  or  creek,  any  animal  travelling  in  that 
vicinity  will,  more  or  less,  cross  upon  it,  led  me  to  invent  the  fol- 
lowing device : 

The  only  tools  necessary  are  a  good  sharp  axe  and  a  spade. 
With  your  tools  and  traps,  go  to  the  mouth  of  some  stream  or 
creek  that  empties  into  a  lake  or  river.  Take  your  axe  and  cut 
a  log  say  eight  or  ten  inches  in  diameter  and  long  enough  to 
reach  across  the  creek,  allowing  about  six  inches  to  extend  on 


either  shore.  Before  putting  log  in  place,  take  your  axe  and  at 
center  of  log  cut  a  notch  just  the  size  of  trap  and  i^/^  inches 
deep.  Cut  two  more  notches,  one  on  each  side  of  the  trap  notch, 
in  shape  of  the  letter  ''V,"  six  inches  wide  at  the  top  and  seven 
inches  deep. 

When  notches  are  cut,  lay  the  log  across  the  creek  near  the 
mouth.  Take  the  spade  and  dig  out  each  bank  so  the  log  will  be 
ij4  inches  out  of  water.  Set  the  trap  in  the  center  notch  and 
stake  trap  chain  to  bed  of  the  creek.  It  is  best  to  set  trap  in  good 
shape,  taking  plenty  of  time  and  concealing  each  trap  carefully. 

Orrin  Wicks, 

Hamilton,  Mich. 

Trapping  the  Mink. 

I  am  54  years  old,  and  have  been  interested  in  hunting,  trap- 
ping, fishing  and  woodcraft  practically  all  my  life.  I  give  you 
my  suggestive  ideas  as  to  trapping  mink,  also  in  another  article 
as  to  fishing,  not  only  for  bait,  but  for  food  supply.  The  latter 
is  very  important  for  one  away  from  home  or  civilization. 


276 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


The  time  for  setting  traps  for  mink  depends  upon  the  weather 
and  locaHty.  In  the  northern  and  eastern  states,  from  the  first 
to  the  last  of  October.  If  your  first  mink  skin  shows  dark  on 
the  inside,  you  had  better  leave  your  bait  and  take  up  your  traps 
for  a  few  days.  The  place  to  set  your  traps  is  along  the  banks 
of  streams  and  on  the  shores  of  lakes  and  ponds.  If  possible 
find  small  spring  brooks  that  empty  into  streams  and  lakes  and 
at  the  mouth  of  these  runs,  build  an  enclosure  with  an  opening 
in  front  of  same,  say  five  or  six  inches  wide  by  about  ten  or 
twelve  high.  This  end  of  the  enclosure  should  stand  in  the  water 
so  that  your  trap  will  be  about  one  inch  under  water.  Now  cover 
trap  with  moss  or  wet  leaves.  Never  stake  your  trap,  but  use 
a  swing  or  talley  pole;  if  the  first,  drive  a  stake  with  crotch  on, 
down  near  the  trap,  and  place  a  pole  in  the  crotch,  fasten  trap 
chain  to  the  small  end,  and  hook  it  down  to  a  peg  driven  in  the 
ground.  The  butt  end  of  pole  should  be  heavy  enough  to 
swing  mink  clear  of  the  ground.  Of  the  two  I  prefer  the  talley 
pole,  from  the  fact  that  one  will  not  lose  a  trap  if  a  skunk  or 
raccoon  is  caught.  For  this,  use  a  sapling  with  all  limbs  left  on, 
wedge  chain  ring  on  and  tie  the  top  of  talley  pole  to  a  near-by 
bush  or  small  limb.  There  is  give  enough  to  this  arrangement  to 
prevent  mink  from  pulling  out.  Now  place  the  bait  on  a  vStick 
in  the  back  end  of  enclosure.  I  have  found  no  better  bait  than 
muskrat,  fish  is  also  good.    Any  meat  will  answer. 

A  good  scent  for  fall  trapping  is  fish  oil  (preferably  trout) 
with  three  or  four  musk  glands  from  the  muskrat  added;  put 
fish  and  glands  into  a  bottle,  cork  and  hang  same  in  the  sun, 
use  a  few  drops  of  this  around  the  enclosure,  not  on  the  bait.  Save 
the  musk  glands  of  the  female  mink  (bottle,  hang  in  the  sun  as 
before)  for  winter  and  spring  trapping. 

Another  very  good  way  is  to  set  trap  in  a  runway.  If  a 
natural  one  cannot  be  found,  make  one  by  placing  an  old  log  near 
a  steep  bank  and  place  another  log  partly  over  this  so  that  it 
will  rest  against  the  bank.  If  there  is  a  space  between  logs  and 
water  drive  down  a  few  stakes,  then  they  will  quite  likely  pass 
through  the  artificial  runway.  Use  no  bait  in  this  set ;  use  talley 
pole  as  before. 

Skinning. — Rip  down  the  back  side  of  both  hind  legs  to  vent, 
be  careful  and  not  go  deep  enough  to  cut  musk  glands  at  root  of 
tail,  use  a  split  stick  to  remove  bone  from  tail.  Now  pull  skin 
ofif  over  body,  cut  around  the  eyes  and  ears  and  the  skin  is  ready 
for  stretching. 

Stretching  Skin, — This  is  best  done  on  a  three  piece  fur-board, 
which  is  made  as  follows:  First  make  the  board  from  one-half 
inch  stock,  round  off  end  and  the  edges.    Now  saw  this  length- 


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277 


wise  into  three  pieces ;  the  middle  piece  should  be  a  little  tapering 
to  form  a  wedge.  Put  the  skin  on  the  outside  pieces  first  and 
stretch  it  as  long  as  it  will  go  and  tack.  Now  insert  the  wedge. 
When  the  skin  is  dry,  which  is  best  done  in  a  dark  place,  it  is 
ready  for  market. 

F.  H.  Bassett, 

Waterbury,  Conn. 

Trapping  Mink  and  Fox. 

I  have  a  very  good  way  to  catch  mink  and  fox.  My  method 
of  catching  mink  is  this :  I  use  a  No.  3  Newhouse  trap,  but 
remove  one  of  the  springs.  Thus  I  have  a  trap  that  catches  a 
mink  so  high  that  he  cannot  gnaw  or  twist  out.  They  stay  right 
there  until  I  take  them  out.  I  never  had  a  mink  get  away  yet. 
But  a  No.  2  trap  gets  feet  and  toes. 

I  use  mink's  musk  and  mink's  matrix,  muskrat's  musk,  and 
oil  of  cumin,  well  mixed,  and  let  it  stand  in  an  air-tight  bottle 
six  months  and  shake  well  before  using.  Four  to  six  drops  of 
this  scent  is  all  I  need  to  catch  the  slyest  old  dog  mink  that  ever 
walked.  I  certainly  can  get  them  every  time.  I  catch  three 
female  mink  in  the  mating  season,  and  get  the  matrix  of  the 
three  and  put  into  a  half-pint  bottle.  Then  I  take  the  musk-bags 
of  fifteen  male  mink  and  squeeze  the  musk  into  the  bottle.  I  then 
catch  enough  muskrats  to  get  four  ounces  of  clear  rat  musk 
and  from  the  druggist  I  get  one  ounce  of  oil  of  cumin.  I  put 
all  into  the  bottle  and  cork  it  up  air-tight.  To  bait  the  traps, 
I  take  a  piece  of  muskrat  skin  and  tie  it  on  the  pan  of  my 
trap  and  put  four  to  six  drops  of  this  scent  on  it.  Then  I  cover 
trap  and  chain  so  nothing  is  in  sight  but  the  muskrat  skin  on  the 
pan.  If  there  is  a  mink  within  one  mile  of  my  trap,  and  the  wind 
blows  in  his  direction,  I  know  of  no  reason  why  I  will  not  catch 
him.  It  is  the  best  mink  scent  and  bait  that  any  living  man  ever 
used. 

I  have  used  all  kinds  of  scent  and  never  found  any  that  was 
anywheres  near  as  good  as  this  kind.  I  know  from  experience 
what  I  am  saying.  I  never  had  a  mink  get  away  from  a  No.  3 
trap  yet.  Anyone  starting  to  make  this  scent  need  not  make  as 
much  at  one  time.  Make  one-half  or  one-quarter  at  a  time  to 
get  started.    That  is  the  way  to  capture  the  mink. 

Ed  Brehmer, 

Spring  Valley,  Minn. 
Trapping  the  Mink. 

In  trapping  the  mink  I  have  seldom  used  bait,  although  he 
will  taste  of  almost  anything  that  is,  fish,  flesh  or  fowl.  The 
bait  and  trap  in  which  I  place  the  most  reliance,  is  set  in  a  hole — 


278         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


in  some  bank  of  a  stream  or  pond ;  in  a  hollow  log,  among  the 
rocks ;  under  a  root ;  stranded  ice  or  overhanging  bank.  A  mink 
is  almost  certain  to  poke  into  any  hole  that  he  comes  to. 

He  seldom  passes  a  hollow  log  or  a  hole  in  the  bank  without 
diving  into  it  and  exploring  it  to  the  bottom.  If  there  is  a  log 
leaning  from  the  bank  into  the  water  he  will  go  under  instead 
of  over  it  and  a  Newhouse  No.  i  or  a  ''jumper"  placed  in  the 
entrance  and  lightly  covered  with  moss  or  leaves,  will  get  him  the 
first  time  he  comes  that  way.  I  will  say  right  here  that  I  do 
not  believe  a  mink  cares  any  more  for  a  naked  trap  than  he  does 
for  a  stick.  If  a  trap  is  not  covered,  he  will  step  over  it  or  go 
round  it  because  it  is  better  footing  that  way.  It  is  much  better 
to  cover  a  trap  than  not  for  the  purpose  of  making  easy  footing, 
and  if  he  is  guided  by  sticks  or  stones  onto  the  spot  where  the 
trap  is,  the  catch  is  made  more  certain. 

Male  minks  are  great  wanderers  during  the  months  of  Feb- 
ruary and  March.  During  their  rustling  about  they  are  looking 
more  intently  for  the  female  than  for  food ;  their  errand  being 
one  of  love,  in  their  quest  they  leave  no  hiding  place  unexplored, 
and  whatever  caution  they  may  have  is  forgotten  at  this  time, 
and  they  will  rush  as  blindly  into  any  kind  of  a  trap  as  a  pig. 
The  female  remains  more  closely  at  home,  seldom  going  far 
from  the  valley,  swamp  or  water  course  that  has  been  her  home, 
so  long  as  there  is  plenty  of  the  favorite  food. 

Mink  feed  on  the  cottontail  rabbit  more  often  "  than  on  fish 
and  I  believe  prefer  the  muskrat  to  either.  I  have  caught  a  great 
many  in  traps  set  in  the  places  where  muskrats  haul  up  aquatic 
plants  to  eat.  Where  rats  are  at  all  abundant  (these  places  are 
common  along  water  courses  and  ponds)  they  are  frequently 
caught  in  traps  set  in  muskrat  houses  in  the  winter. 

A  favorite  set  of  mine  has  been  to  drive  a  number  of  stakes 
across  a  small  stream,  making  a  fence  that  is  impassable  except 
through  an  opening  about  six  inches  wide,  in  which  a  trap  is 
set  on  a  stone  sunk  to  leave  the  trap  about  an  inch  under  water. 
If  placed  where  there  is  some  current  it  is  quite  an  effective  set 
in  cold  weather. 

I  seldom  use  the  sliding  pole  in  trapping  mink  as  they  scarcely 
ever  twist  off  a  foot  even  on  land,  and  when  near  deep  water  they 
usually  become  entangled  in  roots  or  other  obstructions  and 
drown. 

Where  bait  is  used,  a  good  place  to  set  your  trap  is  at  the 
junction  of  a  small  brook  with  a  larger  one;  the  trap  is  to  be  set 
in  the  water  with  the  bait  suspended  over  it  in  such  a  way  that 
the  animal  must  step  on  the  trap  to  get  at  it.   A  hole  dug  in  the 


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279 


bank  and  the.  bait  placed  in  the  back  with  the  trap  at  the  entrance 
is  also  very  good.  i  ' 

For  lure,  the  scent  bags  of  the  female  preserved  in  glycerine 
has  great  attraction  for  the  male,  as  is  the  case  with  all  animals. 
Fish  oil  is  good  medicine — anything  fishy  attracts  them — canned 
salmon,  sardines,  rotten  shiners  or  other  small  fish,  among  which 
a  few  fresh  ones  are  placed,  is  very  attractive  to  them. 

An  old  mill  dam  is  a  favorite  haunt  of  minks  and  there  can 
usually  be  found  a  well-defined  trail  from  the  stream  below^  the 
dam  to  the  pond  above  around  one  or  both  ends. 

Charles  E.  Ingalls, 

East  Templeton,  Mass. 

Trapping  the  Mink. 

will  tell  you  how  I  have  been  very  successful  catching 
mink/'  writes  Mr.  J.  Funk  of  Tifiin,  Ohio. 

"I  always  used  the  No.  i  Newhouse  trap.  I  did  my  trapping 
along  a  small  creek  and  I  would  always  try  to  set  my  trap  on 
the  bank  where  the  creek  made  a  sharp  curve,  especially  where 
the  water  washed  under  the  roots  of  trees.  If  there  is  a  log 
near,  I  set  my  trap  along  this.  Now  I  make  what  I  call  a  coop. 
For  this  I  procure  a  piece  of  bark  or  a  flat  piece  of  wood  about 
twenty  inches  long  and  seven  inches  wide.  Then  I  cut  four 
small  stakes  and  drive  two  of  these  in  the  ground  six  inches 
from  the  log  and  one  inch  apart;  the  next  two  I  drive  about  the 
same  distance  from  the  log  and  six  inches  from  the  other  two. 
Then  I  slip  the  bark  down  between  these  stakes ;  get  two  sticks, 
lay  one  at  each  end  from  the  bark  to  the  log.  Another  piece  of 
bark  is  needed  for  the  roof  so  it  will  cover  the  coop  nicely. 
Chopping  should  be  avoided  as  much  as  possible.  After  this  part 
is  completed,  I  put  a  chunk  in  one  end  of  the  coop  as  tight  as 
possible  so  the  mink  is  compelled  to  enter  from  the  other  end. 
Then  I  put  my  bait  in  the  back  end  against  the  chunk,  and  I 
always  use  chicken,  rabbit,  or  muskrat  for  this.  Now  I  set 
my  trap.  This  should  be  set  as  light  as  possible  with  the  spring 
toward  the  back  end  of  the  coop  and  cover  with  nice  dry  beach 
leaves.  I  always  stake  my  trap  for  minks,  by  getting  a  stake 
about  fourteen  inches  long  with  a  branch  at  the  top  so  the  ring 
cannot  slip  off  ,and  driving  it  down  at  the  side  of  the  coop.'' 


We  have  the  following  from  Mr.  Ernest  Havner,  of  Ludlow, 
Montana : 

'The  mink  eats  fish,  frogs  and  craw  fish,  and  now  and  then 
gets  into  the  barn  and  steals  chickens,  goslings  and  ducks,  and 
crawls  into  the  cellar  and  eats  up  the  sausage  meat,  or  whatever 


280 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


he  can  get  his  jaws  on.  He  is  a  pilfering  Httle  animal  and  yet 
so  simple  and  foolish  that  he  is  easily  caught  by  a  trapper  that 
knows  his  habits.  For  the  sake  of  something  to  eat,  he  runs  up 
streams  and  crosses  from  one  lake  to  another,  a  regular  rene- 
gade. He  only  runs  along  steep  banks,  or  under  old  roots  and 
around  rocks.  The  young  are  brought  forth  in  May  or  June,  in 
litters  of  five  or  six  black  looking  little  things. 

''To  catch  this  animal  you  have  only  to  be  acquainted  with 
its  habits.  He  follows  streams  of  water,  hunting  every  nook  and 
corner  for  something  to  eat.  Place  your  trap  near  the  edge  of 
the  water,  (No.  is  the  best  for  mink).  Have  it  covered  with 
about  an  inch  of  water,  directly  in  front  of  a  steep  bank  or  rock, 
or  something  on  which  you  can  hang  your  bait  about  eighteen 
inches  above  the  level  of  the  trap,  which  must  be  so  close  to 


GERMAN    DEADFALL  TRAP. 

This  contrivance  is  chiefly  used  in  Europe  for  liilling  mice  and  rats. 
In  this  country  it  is  commonly  known  as  the  "gallow  trap."  Large  num- 
bers of  weasels,  ermines  and  minks  are  annually  caught  in  this  trap,  prin- 
cipally in  or  about  the  chicken  coop.  If  made  on  a  larger  scale  the  trap 
is  suitable  for  killing  mink,  marten,  fisher  and  foxes.  The  weight  on  top 
of  upper  board  must  be  heavy,  so  as  to  break  the  bones  and  hold  the 
animal  fast.  Spindle  is  tied  to  center  pin  by  a  thin  string.  Upper  board 
should  fit  loosely  about  lower  pin. 

the  shore  that  the  mink  cannot  get  to  the  bait  without  stepping 
on  it.  The  bait  should  be  fresh  fish  or  frogs,  or  the  head  of  some 
bird  or  fowl,  as  he  is  very  fond  of  brains. 

''Another  plan  is  to  set  your  trap  on  the  land  about  ten  feet 
from  the  shore,  covering  it  with  a  few  leaves,  moss,  grass  or  loose 
dirt,  or  anything  that  will  not  prevent  the  jaws  from  closing. 
Hang  the  bait  about  eighteen  inches  above  it  and  scent  it  with  a 
mixture  made  of  equal  parts  of  honey,  sweet  oil,  and  essence  of 


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281 


peppermint.  About  a  teaspoonful  of  this  on  the  bait  will  cause 
them  to  come  a  long  distance. 

''Another  good  plan  in  which  I  have  had  good  success  is  to 
set  your  traps  about  two  feet  back  from  the  water,  and  from  forty 
to  eighty  rods  apart,  up  or  down  stream.  Then  walk  over  the  line 
drawing  after  you  the  ^carcass  of  a  muskrat  or  a  roasted  crow,  or 
almost  any  fresh  meat,  and  any  mink  that  crosses  this  line  or  trail 
will  follow  it  to  the  trap. 

''It  is  also  a  good  plan  to  set  your  trap  where  the  mink  must 
walk  over  it  to  get  at  the  bait.  He  is  a  great  fellow  to  catch 
muskrats,  which  he  loves  to  eat,  and  you  may  bait  the  trap  with 
muskrat  carcass  and  set  it  in  a  rat  house  where  you  will  often 
find  handfuls  of  little  fish  that  the  mink  has  brought  there, 

"In  the  winter  time  he  travels  along  springy  brooks,  pulling 
out  frogs,  and  here  he  may  be  easily  caught.  You  may  also 
catch  them  in  winter  at  the  sides  of  big  springs  or  along  the 
springy  sides  of  ponds  and  swamps  where  they  like  to  roam.'' 

Poisonings  Minks. 

Gentlemen : — • 

Answering  your  letter  relative  to  my  ways  of  trapping,  permit 
me  to  say  that  I  use  poison  to  a  greater  or  less  extent. 

The  poison  is  put  into  2,  3,  4  and  5  grain  capsules  and  I  use 
equal  parts  of  powdered  arsenic  and  carbolic  crystals.  TltC 
smaller  sized  capsules  are  for  smaller  animals  and  the  others  for 
fox  and  wolf. 

I  place  these  capsules  sometimes  into  the  carcass  of  dead 
animals,  other  times  in  small  bits  of  meat,  especially  for  the 
wolf,  that  he  can  swallow.  Sure  death  is  a  positive  result.  Neve* 
known  to  fail. 

I  have  known  and  personally  caught  skunk  and  mink,  as  well 
as  muskrat,  by  placing  a  bait  on  good  sized  fish-hook — the  latter 
being  attached  to  a  wire.  This  may  seem  funny  but  nevertheless 
it  is  a  fact.  It  is  not  more  cruel  to  catch  tb.ese  animals  that  way 
than  it  is  to  catch  fish.  Death  comes  just  as  soon  as  they  try  to 
escape. 

Yours  truly, 

Frank  Jensen". 

Box  Set  For  Mink. 

A  British  Columbia  trapper,  who  wants  his  name  withheld, 
states  that  he  has  had  continued  success  for  three  years  in  trap- 
ping mink,  and  during  that  time  shipped  at  least  $500.00  worth 
of  raw  furs,  and  no  small  part  of  them  were  mink  captured  in  the 
usual  way,  also  in  his  favorite  Box  Spring  Set. 


282 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


Locate  a  spring  or  some  junction  point  where  the  wa^er  of  a 
spring  enters  into  a  creek,  and  at  the  most  suitable  place  baild 
a  box  of  two-inch  boards,  two  to  three  feet  wide,  three  to  five 
feet  long  and  as  deep  as  necessary  (twelve  to  twenty  inches). 
Bore  many  small  holes  into  the  sides  or  ends,  so  that  a  fresh 
supply  of  water  circulates  at  all  times.  Now  place  small  live 
fish  as  bait  therein  and  continue  to  keep  this  stocked  from  the 
early  fall  or  even  summer.  The  idea  is  to  educate  the  mink, 
marten,  otter  or  even  the  fox  to  habitually  come  after  a  meal. 
They  will  soon  become  accustomed  to  come  every  few  days. 

I  make  a  small  shelf  on  one  side  or  end  of  the  box  about  three 
inches  below  the  level,  upon  which  the  mink  usually  stands  and 
gets  into  and  out  of  the  box.  I  set  my  trap  on  this  shelf.  Trap 
is  attached  to  a  stone  by  wire,  so  that  when  the  trap  is  sprung  the 
mink  will  jump  into  the  water  and  pull  the  nearly  balanced  stone 
with  him.  The  weight  of  the  trap  and  stone  will  easily  drown  the 
mink.  On  one  occasion  I  set  two  traps,  one  as  above  de- 
scribed, the  other  on  the  edge  of  the  box  nearest  to  the  shore. 
The  latter  trap  had  a  regulation  chain  which  I  attached  to  a 
rope.  This  rope  was  passed  over  limb  of  tree  that  stood  con- 
veniently by.  On  the  fork  of  this  limb  I  balanced  a  stone  weigh- 
ing probably  ten  to  fourteen  pounds,  so  when  the  fisher  came 
during  the  night  to  obtain  a  bite  or  two  he  sprung  the  trap  and 
evidently  made  a  side  jump,  and  in  so  doing  disturbed  the  stone. 
When  I  came  I  found  the  mink  dead  in  the  water  and  the  young 
fisher  swinging  five  feet  in  the  air.  I  killed  him  with  my  revolver. 
When  I  saw  him  hanging  I  just  thought  it  was  an  otter,  but 
his  long  neck  and  firm  hold  with  his  teeth  on  the  chain  convinced 
me  that  a  lead  pellet  would  put  him  out  of  misery  and  enrich  me 
by  $6.00  to  $10.00. 

When  nearing  the  set,  even  when  re-stocking  the  box  with 
fish,  I  made  it  a  point  to  wade  through  the  water  and  always 
from  the  opposite  side. 

Unique  Method  of  Capturing  Mink  and  Muskrats. 

This  unique  way  of  catching  mink,  muskrats,  even  fisher  and 
otter,  is  worthy  of  trial  by  anyone  who  finds  a  suitable  log  across 
a  stream  or  reaching  out  in  some  lake. 

A  strong  wire  is  attached  from  one  end  to  another  on  stakes 
securely  driven  into  the  ground,  the  wire  running  parallel  with 
the  log  but  at  a  distance  of  twelve  to  sixteen  inches.  Fasten 
strong  fish  hooks  to  some  linen  lines  capable  of  holding  the  de- 
sired animal,  and  attach  to  wire.  Fasten  securely  so  as  not  to 
slide.  Bait  hooks  with  small  pieces  of  muskrat,  which  the  animal 
is  able  to  swallow  without  chewing.    One-half  of  the  hooks 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


283 


so  baited  should  be  placed  on  the  log,  the  remainder  just  touch- 
ing the  water.  To  prevent  the  victim  chewing  off  the  string, 
use  guitar  wire  or  gut  strings.  If  hook  is  attached  six  inches 
from  one  end  of  line  and  to  the  latter  a  stone  weighing  one  to 
two  pounds  is  placed  on  the  log,  when  the  animal  is  caught  he 
will  jump  off  the  log  into  the  water  and  the  stone  will  have  a 
tendency  to  hold  the  animal  down  and  of  course  he  will  drown 
very  quickly.  Those  lines  which  touch  the  water  are  arranged 
for  mink,  muskrats  and  others  coming  up  stream  and  become 
caught  without  getting  on  the  log. 

A  Montana  trapper  has  used  this  method  successfully  and  at 
one  time  caught  an  otter,  on  another  occasion  his  six  out  of  eight 
hooks  had  a  victim — three  minks,  one  marten,  a  weasel  and  a 
fisher.  It  is  a  very  good  idea  to  arrange  a  stone  to  pull  the 
animal  below  the  level  of  the  water. 

C.  F.  G. 

Trapping  the  Mink. 

After  trying  nearly  all  kinds  of  baits  and  scents  with  no  great 
results,  I  hit  upon  a  bait  of  my  own  three  years  ago,  which  I  have 
used  exclusively  since,  and  will  say  that  I  have  had  first-rate 
results.  While  minks  are  scarce  in  my  locality,  if  I  can  find  where 
one  runs  or  a  place  they  travel,  I  have  nearly  always  taken  them, 
and  I  am  going  to  give  the  readers  of  this  article  the  benefit  of 
my  experience. 

I  am  not  going  to  tell  you  how  to  set  your  traps,  as  I  find 
nearly  every  trapper  has  his  favorite  sets.  As  for  me,  I  use  the 
pen  or  cobby,  the  hollow  log,  or  hole ;  whichever  I  find  handiest. 
I  take  pains  in  setting  and  covering  my  trap.  My  favorite  trap 
is  the  Oneida  Jump  trap  No.  2,  which  I  set  and  cover  to  make 
look  as  nearly  natural  with  the  surroundings  as  possible. 

Then,  for  bait,  I  use  the  common  canned  salmon  and  I  find, 
in  my  locality  a  mink  will  take  it  when  nothing  else  w:ll  attract 
him.  The  way  I  use  it  is  to  take  a  can  as  it  comes  from  the 
store  and  empty  the  juice  and  about  half  the  fish  in  a  large- 
mouthed  bottle  with  a  good  cork  to  it.  After  setting  my  trap, 
I  dip  a  stick  down  in  this  bottle  and  place  the  stick  back  of  the 
trap,  only  using  what  salmon  adheres  to  the  stick.  This  is  both 
a  scent  and  a  bait. 

I  have  purchased  different  kinds  of  scents,  paying  $1.00  for 
a  little  bottle  no  bigger  than  my  little  finger,  also  made  fish  oil, 
angle  worm,  and  all  those  things,  but  give  me  the  canned  salmon. 
It  does  not  hurt  it  if  it  becomes  a  little  rancid. 

F.  H.  Sheep, 

Montrose,  Pa. 


2§4         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


Take  a  box  trap  and  line  it  with  tin.  Take  a  two-inch  plank, 
bore  a  two  or  three-inch  hole  in  it,  drive  sharp  nails  in  about 
one  inch  from  the  top.  Bore  a  hole  a  little  larger  than  the  spindle, 
insert  spindle  in  it;  have  the  plank  so  arranged  that  it  cannot  be 
shoved  in  any  farther.  Put  bait  behind  plank  and  set  trap.  As 
the  mink  puts  his  head  in  the  hole  to  get  bait,  he  will  pull  to  get 
out  and  spring  the  trap,  and  once  sprung,  he  is  yours. 

Stop  Thief  traps  are  very  good.  I  averaged  one  mink  every 
day  for  a  week  by  the  use  of  these  traps,  which  could  hardly  be 
possible  with  any  other.  Take  essence  of  peppermint,  honey 
and  sweet  oil  for  scent,  or  small  fish  cut  in  pieces  and  put  in  a 
bottle  in  the  sun  till  oil  is  formed. 

N.  C.  A. 

TRAPPING  THE  MARTEN. 


'T  will  tell  you  how  I  trap  marten,"  writes  Mr.  C.  Anderson 
of  Cape  Scott.    'T  go  up  on  a  hill  where  there  is  cedar  and  find 


where  they  have  been  running  up  and  scratching  the  bark  off 
the  trees.  I  then  take  sticks  and  drive  in  the  ground  to  make  a 
pen,  leaving  an  opening  where  I  set  a  No.  i  trap,  and  cover  it 
up  with  feathers.  Use  fish  and  venison  for  bait.  Throw  the 
bait  in  the  pen  about  eighteen  inches  from  the  trap.  Drag  bait 
when  going  from  one  trap  to  another  as  the  marten  will  follow 
the  scent.'' 

In  trapping  marten  one  wants  to  set  his  traps  the  same  as 
he  does  for  mink,  excepting  he  must  take  into  consideration  that 
the  marten  is  at  home  on  trees,  perhaps  more  so  than  on  terra 
firma.  I  prefer  to  set  my  traps  mostly  in  pens,  especially  con- 
structed with  the  idea  of  leaving  them  from  one  year  to  that 
of  another.  Set  the  traps  in  the  den,  concealing  them  in  the  usual 
way. 

When  it  comes  to  bait,  I  use  decomposed  fish ;  probably  noth- 
ing is  better  than  salmon  roe,  especially  if  putrid.  If  this  is  unob- 
tainable any  other  meat  or  fish  will  do.     No  artificial  oil  is  used 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


285 


by  me,  although  a  brother  trapper  of  mine  has  used  anise  oil. 
No.  I  and  Newhouse  traps  are  used  exclusively  by  me. 
Since  trapping  up  here,  I  have  found  that  it  does  not  pay  to 
depend  entirely  upon  marten,  as  some  years  the  catch  is  so  light 
that  one  would  starve  if  he  had  to  depend  upon  the  returns  that 
he  received  from  the  sale  of  marten  skins.  Therefore  I  spend 
considerable  time  in  trapping  for  fox,  lynx  and  of  course  mink. 

There  is  no  particular  rule  where  marten  traps  are  to  be  set. 
One  must  study  the  habits  of  the  animal  and  during  the  winter 
time  choose  the  place  where  the  tracks  are  most  numerous.  My 
marten  line  sometimes  extends  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  but  50 
traps  is  all  I  care  to  handle  besides  sets  for  other  animals. 

E.  L.  Turner. 

Trapping  the  Marten. 

Frequently  marten  are  met  with  in  low,  swampy  ground, 
where  the  timber  is  small  and  therefore  there  will  be  no 
hollow  logs  or  decayed  stumps.  In  such  case  the 
trapper  will  have  to  avail  himself  of  the  boughs  of  spruce  or 
balsam-fir  to  make  a  structure  to  keep  out  snow.  Selecting  a 
place  where  tracks  are  most  numerous,  both  old  and  fresh,  and 
where  there  are  one  or  more  evergreens  growing,  he  proceeds  to 
cut  down  a  spruce  and  trimming  ofif  the  branches  cuts  it  into 
lengths  about  three  feet  long;  these  he  drives  into  the  snow  or 
mossy  ground  in  a  circle  about  a  foot  in  diameter,  with  an  open- 
ing on  one  side  about  four  inches  wide.  The  stakes  slant  out- 
ward, making  the  pen  wider  at  top.  The  bait,  which  may  be  any 
kind  of  meat  or  bird,  is  fastened  inside  the  pen  with  a  peg  put 
through  it.  The  trap  is  placed  in  the  opening  and  two  twigs  are 
stuck  in  the  ground  on  both  sides  of  the  trap,  thus  insuring  suc- 
cess. The  twigs  also  should  slant  outwards ;  next  the  sides  and 
top  of  the  pen  are  covered  with  spruce  boughs,  heavily  on  the 
top  and  letting  the  ends  come  down  so  as  to  almost  conceal  the 
opening.  This  is  for  keeping  out  meat  birds  and  other  vermin. 
The  marten  will  find  the  opening  without  difficulty  and  of  course 
when  he  steps  in  to  get  the  bait  becomes  caught. 

T.  GULLICKSON. 

TRAPPING  THE  SKTJNK. 

The  trapping  of  skunk  is  one  of  the  most  profitable  branches 
of  trapping,  especially  for  the  farmer  and  members  of  his  family, 
on  their  own  and  adjoining  lands,  and  it  is  only  natural  that  the 
younger  element  should  pursue  these  practices  during  the  winter 
months. 

The  fur  of  the  skunk  usually  becomes  prime  November  ist, 
and  during  that  month,  also  December,  his  skin  brings  the  trap- 


j 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  287 


per  more  money  and  probably  he  is  caught  then  with  more  ease 
than  later  in  the  year  when  one  has  to  resort  to  digging  them  out. 
The  skunk  can  be  caught  with  the  assistance  of  a  good  dog 
during  the  night,  also  by  setting  traps  in  their  dens  which  may 
be  in  some  side  of  a  hill,  under  a  root  of  a  tree,  in  hollow  logs, 
under  old  out-buildings,  barns,  etc.  Quite  often,  if  such  places 
are  not  found,  traps  may  be  set  in  some  small  enclosures  made  by 
stakes  driven  in  the  ground.  Baiting  is  quite  essential  but  any- 
thing will  do  for  the  skunk. 

During  January  skunks  are  somewhat  harder  to  trap,  but 
just  as  soon  as  the  sun  gets  warm,  which  is  usually  the  case 
during  the  month  of  February,  the  skunk  will  begin  to  run  from 
one  hole  to  that  of  another  and  their  hibernating  habits  cease. 
The  buck  skunk  will  usually  travel  much  farther,  but  I  find  that 
the  female  skunk  does  not  confine  herself  to  her  abode  as  is  the 
practice  of  the  female  mink.  Should  the  weather  be  cold  the 
running  season  does  not  begin  until  March.  At  that  time,  you 
will  find  skunk  on  the  go  night  and  day.  Quite  naturally  the 
male  skunk  knows  every  den  in  the  immediate  vicinity  and  in  his 
haunts  visits  one  after  another  and,  seemingly,  he  is  not  detained 
very  long  in  any  one  of  them,  but  passes  on  to  another  within 
a  very  short  time.  This  is  the  time  when  the  farmer  boy  should 
devote  a  week  or  two  to  trapping  skunks,  because  soon  thereafter 
the  skins  are  unprime,  the  fur  begins  to  shed,  and  the  fur  dealer 
is  obliged  to  class  same  as  No.  2,  No.  3,  and  shedding. 

Place  your  steel  traps  in  front  of  their  dens.  Don't  confine 
yourself  to  steel  traps  entirely  but  obtain  wire  traps,  either  the 
Stop  Thief  pattern,  or  those  made  by  the  Oneida  Community  Co. 
Better  results  are  sometimes  obtained  by  using  home-made  traps, 
especially  when  you  can  get  five  to  six  skunks  at  one  time.  At 
this  time  of  the  year,  when  skunks  are  plenty,  I  never  stop  to 
dig  them  out ;  time  seems  to  be  too  precious.  If  the  weather 
should  turn  unfavorable,  then  I  revert  to  digging. 

Last  year  I  caught  over  three  hundred  skunks  within  three 
weeks,  besides  other  furs,  and  if  any  one  can  beat  me,  he  will 
have  to  show  me  because  I  come  from  Missouri. 

Jack  Morrow. 

Trapping  the  Skunk. 

From  a  trapper  in  Missouri  we  have  the  following  article  on 
catching  skunks : 

''To  find  the  skunk's  den  look  for  a  hole  at  the  side  of  a 
hill  or  rise  of  ground,  or  under  rock  piles  and  rocky  blufifs,  and 
sometimes  in  old  wells.  Now  examine  the  holes  to  find  if 
black  and  white  hairs  are  sticking  to  the  entrance,  which  is  often 
the  case  when  the  holes  are  too  small.    Skunks  are  lazy  animals 


288         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


and  when  possible,  they  take  possession  of  holes  made  by  other 
animals.  If  they  have  occupied  the  hole  long,  you  will  find 
a  manure  pile  near  by. 

''If  their  den  is  found  in  the  side  of  a  hill  where  digging  is  easy, 
dig  them  out,  but  never  start  where  there  are  too  many  rocks. 
Their  bed  is  usually  placed  above  the  rest  of  the  hole  in  such 
a  manner  that  makes  it  very  hard  to  drown  them  out.  With 
these  points  in  view  it  is  best  to  trap  them  either  with  steel 
traps  or  with  what  is  commonly  known  as  a  ''deadfall"  which 
consists  of  a  lot  about  twelve  inches  each  way  closed  on  three 
sides.  On  the  fourth  side  lies  a  pole  which  sets  upon  the  ''trig- 
gers'' and  which  is  baited  with  hog-liver,  if  obtainable;  if  not, 
with  fresh  meat  (preferably  rabbit  heads).  When  the  skunk 
touches  the  bait  the  trigger  rod  releases  the  pole,  and  falling,  it 
breaks  the  back  of  the  animal,  and  consequently,  when  found  the 
next  morning,  he  is  dead.  These  traps  should  be  placed  about 
five  feet  from  the  hole  in  the  run,  and  baited  carefully.  Should 
you  wish  to  use  the  steel  traps  rub  them  with  hog-liver.  Place 
the  traps  in  the  hole  and  cover  all  but  the  plate  with  leaves ;  then 
fasten  the  trap  securely  to  some  clog  or  stake.  Take  the  fat  from 
some  fish  and  fry  it  out  and  pour  into  a  bottle.  Leave  the  cork 
out  and  expose  it  until  the  oil  decays  and  becomes  very  strong. 
Place  a  few  drops  near  the  hole  and  some  on  the  plate  of  the 
trap.  Cover  the  trap  with  fine  leaves,  fasten  securely,  and  visit 
your  traps  each  morning.  This  decoy  is  also  good  in  trapping 
other  animals. 

'The  skinning  is  the  next  process;  to  do  this,  cut  from  the 
foot  of  one  hind  leg  to  the  foot  of  the  other  and  detach  them  fromi 
the  flesh.  Next  cut  from  both  sides  to  the  root  of  the  tail,  care- 
fully avoiding  the  "musk  bag."  Then  after  skinning  the  tail, 
put  your  feet  on  its  two  hind  feet  and  pull  steadily  until  you 
have  detached  the  hide.  Be  very  careful  not  to  cut  any  holes 
in  the  fur  as  this  slightly  injures  its  selling  value.  Stretch  and 
dry  the  hide  in  a  cased  shape  and  always  have  the  fur  next  to 
the  board  or  stretcher,  so  as  to  keep  the  flesh  part  exposed  to  the 
air  to  dry:  Scrape  the  fat  from  the  skunks  and  render  just  as 
you  would  lard.  This  makes  a  very  good  medicine  for  people 
sufifering  from  colds.  Ship  your  furs  to  a  reliable  company  and 
do  not  sell  to  the  home  dealer  as  he  usually  pays  an  inferior 
price.    Go  to  your  traps  daily  and  skin  as  fast  as  caught." 

Trapping  the  Skunk. 

A  Pennsylvania  trapper,  who  wishes  his  name  withheld,  writes 
as  follows: 

"My  experience  in  catching  skunk  is  as  follows:    The  time 


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289 


to  start  out  is  during  the  fall  (November  or  December)  when 
there  is  a  light  fall  of  snow  which  enables  me  to  follow  the  skunk 
by  his  tracks  to  the  den  or  his  feeding  place,  and  at  these  places 
I  set  the  traps.  Their  holes  are  found  generally  on  the  south  side 
of  a  hill  under  stone  piles,  and  when  you  have  found  such  a 
place  examine  the  sides  of  the  holes  and  look  for  black  and  white 
hairs,  that  generally  adhere  to  the  sides.  If  you  find  these  hairs 
you  can  bet  that  the  hole  is  not  an  old  one  and  that  skunks  inhabit 
the  same. 

"Another  way  I  can  always  find  out  whether  the  hole  is 
occupied  or  inhabited  is  in  looking  about  the  opening  and  if  I 
find  a  pile  of  their  manure  which  has  a  fresh  appearance,  I  know 
that  hole  is  inhabited,  and  I  set  my  trap  on  the  pile  or  there- 
abouts. I  use  a  steel  trap,  No.  i  or  but  in  front  of  holes 
often  use  Stop  Thief  traps. 

"You  will  find  all  the  way  from  two  to  twelve  skunks  in  a 
den.  They  are  not  shrewd  at  all  and  will  readily  walk  into 
uncovered  steel  traps.  I  like  the  Stop  Thief  trap  better  for 
the  reason  that  it  kills  the  skunk  and  does  not  leave  the  dis- 
agreeable odor  on  the  pelt." 

Trapping  The  Skunk. 

I  well  remember  the  first  skunk  I  ever  caught,  in  fact,  I  shall 
never  forget  it.  I  had  heard  a  lot  about  people  catching  them, 
and  selling  skins  for  a  good  price  and  as  I  wanted  some  money, 
I  concluded  I  would  catch  skunks. 

One  warm  day  in  January,  I  started  out  with  an  axe  and 
spade  on  my  shoulder.  (Skunks  are  nearly  always  dug  out  in 
this  vicinity.)  I  had  gone  about  a  mile  and  came  onto  a  track 
and  followed  it  till  it  went  into  a  hole  under  a  stump.  As  it  was 
afternoon  when  I  started,  it  got  dark  before  I  got  Mr.  Skunk. 
I  concluded  to  plug  the  hole  up  and  leave  him  till  morning.  I 
went  back  the  next  morning,  but  he  had  gotten  out,  so  off  I 
went  on  his  track,  following  about  two  miles,  to  where  he  had 
stopped  for  the  day.  I  set  to  work  again  and  as  it  was  a  short 
shallow  hole  in  a  sheltered  place,  I  soon  came  to  him.  I  got 
a  long  stick  and  pounded  him  till  he  ceased  to  struggle.  Then  I 
got  him  out  and  he  proved  to  be  a  big  broad  stripe.  I  certainly 
was  pleased  to  think  I  had  got  him  and  came  home  feeling  great. 
Everything  went  fine  until  I  got  home.  Then  the  trouble  began. 
I  had  to  change  my  clothes,  wash  my  hands  good,  and  put  my 
boots  outdoors.  You  will  all  know  why.  I  sold  his  pelt  for  40c 
and  that  ended  my  first  winter's  skunk-hunting. 

But  I  did  better  afterwards,  as  I  got  along  without  any  smell 
in  either  killing  or  skinning.    I  will  give  my  method  for  the 


290         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


benefit  of  those  who  dig  skunks  out.  First,  when  you  get  a  skunk 
tracked  to  a  hole,  look  all  about  to  see  if  there  are  two  or  more 
entrances.  If  there  is  only  one  entrance  all  the  better.  If  more 
than  one,  run  a  stick  down  below  the  frost  in  all  but  one,  so  the 
skunk  cannot  get  out.  Then  begin  to  dig  at  the  mouth  of  the 
hole  and  follow  right  along.  If  there  are  branches  off  of  the 
main  hole,  dig  them  out  too,  unless  you  have  a  good  dog.  If  you 
have,  he  will  soon  show  you  where  your  game  is.  The  most 
delicate  part  of  the  digging-out  process  is  when  you  come  to  his 
skunkship.  When  you  get  right  close  to  him,  be  careful  not  to 
disturb  him,  but  quietly  shut  the  hole  up  in  front  of  him  and  dig 
over  top  and  past  him.    Dig  till  there  is  not  more  than  an 


BOX  TRAP. 


A  very  simple  arrangement  especially  adapted  for  capturing  animals 
and  birds  alive.  The  cover  or  lid  can  be  raised  much  higher  if  preferred. 
A  similar  contrivance  was  used  some  years  ago  for  capturing  a  large 
African  lion  that  was  taken  to  England. 

inch  of  dirt  over  top,  then  gently  begin  to  press  the  dirt  down 
on  him.  After  you  get  him  nicely  covered  three  or  four  inches 
deep,  begin  to  tramp  the  dirt  in  solidly.  Cover  about  eighteen 
or  twenty  inches  deep  and  leave  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes 
and  he  will  be  dead. 

Skinning  is  the  next  operation.  I  always  begin  at  the  heels 
on  the  inside  of  hind  legs  and  cut  to  the  root  of  tail.  It  is  best 
to  use  a  very  sharp  knife  for  this.    Loosen  the  skin  around  the 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  291 


hind  legs  and  take  tail-bone  out.  Sharpen  a  stick  six  or  eight 
inches  long  at  both  ends  and  tit  through  the  large  cords  just 
above  the  heels  and  hang  over  a  limb  of  convenient  height.  Then 
use  your  hands  and  a  somewhat  duller  knife  to  pull  the  pelt  over 
his  head.  Be  careful  cutting  around  the  eyes  and  not  leave  a  big 
hole  as  it  injures  the  pelt.    Be  careful  around  the  ears  also. 

Stretching  comes  next  in  order.  This  is  a  very  important  part 
of  handling  too.  I  use  the  one  piece  stretcher  most,  although  I 
sometimes  use  the  three-piece,  which  I  believe  is  a  little  better 
as  you  can  stretch  the  skin  a  little  more.  It  is  hard  to  get  the 
one-piece  stretcher  just  the  right  size  and  the  three-piece  stretcher 
can  be  vaned  a  little  to  suit  the  size  of  the  skin.  There  is  danger 
of  stretching  the  skin  too  hard  with  the  three-piece  stretcher, 
which  makes  the  fur  appear  thin. 

Selling  our  catch  is  important  to  the  most  of  us  too.  Well 
handled  skins  always  bring  a  good  price  and  everybody  likes  to 
buy  them.  Poorly  handled,  the  buyers  try  to  buy  them  cheap. 
The  trapper,  as  well  as  the  buyer  is  displeased  with  his  returns 
for  poorly  handled  skins.  Some  travelling  buyers  pay  good 
prices  and  some  very  poor  prices,  so  taking  everything  into 
consideration,  it  is  better  for  the  trapper  to  ship  his  own  catch 
to  some  reliable  company.  Roy  Abray, 

Highgate,  Ont., 

Trapping  The  Skunk. 

Mr.  A.  A.  Lamb,  Buchanan,  Mich.,  states  that  he  has  been 
very  successful  in  capturing  skunk.  'T  sometimes  use  two  or 
three  joints  of  ordinary  stove  pipe  with  a  swing  door  on  one 
end,  which  the  skunk  is  able  to  push  inward;  the  other  end  is 
closed.  I  also  fasten  the  pipe  so  that  the  animal  cannot  roll  it 
when  inside.  Have  taken  as  many  as  six  skunks  in  one  night. 
For  bait  I  use  a  piece  of  muskrat  or  part  of  some  old  stinking 
chicken.  Either  of  these  are  good.  A  neighbor  and  myself  dug 
a  trench  long  enough  for  four  joints  of  stove  pipe  and  covered 
these  joints  up  with  earth  and  placed  an  old  chicken  for  bait 
therein.  One  of  the  openings  was  closed,  and  in  the  other  end 
a  swinging  door,  opening  inward,  through  which  the  skunk  was 
supposed  to  pass,  was  arranged.  A  dead  chicken  was  dragged 
in  various  directions  leading  to  the  opening.  On  one  occasion 
we  dragged  this  bait  for  such  a  distance  that  there  was  very 
little  left  of  it.  The  next  morning,  however,  we  found  thirteen 
skunks  in  the  stove  pipe." 

Trapping  The  Skunk. 

The  skunk  is  not  a  very  sly  animal  and  with  a  little  care 
can  be  easily  caught.    However,  I  always  cover  my  trap  well, 


292 


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first  by  spreading  a  paper  over  the  jaws  and  then  covering  with 
loose  dirt.  I  do  not  set  my  trap  at  the  entrance  of  the  den,  as 
when  one  is  caught,  the  rest  will  sometimes  leave,  but  place  it 
about  a  rod  from  the  entrance,  bait  it  with  mice,  prairie  dog. 
squirrel,  or  bits  of  meat,  and  the  skunk,  greedy  for  bait,  will 
seldom  fail  to  get  caught. 

After  getting  them  in  the  trap,  to  kill  them  without  getting 
the  scent  on  one's  person,  come  up,  if  possible,  without  attract- 
ing attention  and  give  them  a  quick  blow  at  the  root  of  the 
tail.  This  paralyzes  them  so  they  cannot  use  their  scent  for 
some  time  and  they  can  then  be  easily  killed. 

Or,  if  trapping  along  a  stream,  set  the  trap  so  that  a  weight 
may  be  placed  over  the  water,  so  that  when  the  skunk  is  caught 
he  will  be  thrown  into  the  water  and  drown ;  in  this  way  no  scent 
will  remain  about  the  hide.  Fred  D.  Abbott. 

Ft.  Pierre,  S.  D. 


TRIANGLE  BOX  TRAP. 

The  triangle  should  be  from  3  to  4  feet  long:,  and  for  bottom  take 
2 -inch  plank  14  inches  wide.  Lower  plank  should  be  3  inches  longer  on 
each  end.  Securely  fasten  wire  screening  or  laths  on  one  end  and  arrange 
drop  door  as  per  illustration.  Tie  a  string  to  door,  pass  over  beam  through 
upper  portion  of  triangle,  then  slanting  to  staple,  and  fasten  to  figure  four 
arrangement  by  using  lower  plank  as  a  part  of  the  contrivance,  The  spindle 
should  be  arranged  to  hold  upright  stick  to  which  string  is  attached  by  a 
notch  made  into  the  plank.  Bait  should  be  attached  to  spindle.  The 
animal  by  partaking  of  the  bait  disturbs  the  spindle  and  the  door  drops. 

Trapping  The  Skunk. 

We  have  the  following  interesting  article  from  Mr.  William 
Plummer,  of  Rochester.  Minn. 

"I  was  once  told  that  skunks  were  the  most  ignorant  of  all 
wild  animals  and  the  most  easy  to  catch.  Probably,  that  is 
pretty  near  the  truth,  for,  as  a  rule,  it  does  not  require  much 
skill  and  experience  to  catch  the  ordinary  skunk.    But  like  every- 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  293 


thing  else,  there  are  a  few  of  them  that  get  wise  by  experience; 
at  least,  I  have  found  it  so. 

''During  the  winter  of  1901,  a  neighbor's  boy  told  me  where 
several  skunks  were  in  the  habit  of  frequenting.  He  had  been 
trapping  for  them  but  could  not  catch  them.  They  would  get 
into  his  traps  but  always  pulled  out  some  way.  He  showed  me 
his  traps.  They  were  No.  o  rat  traps.  Well,  I  told  him  I  would 
try  my  hand,  so  I  went  to  work  with  a  No.  i^.  The  ground 
was  bare  at  the  time  so  I  had  to  go  somewhat  by  guess.  I  set 
at  least  half  a  dozen  traps,  using  smoked  bacon  for  bait.  I 
kept  this  up  for  a  week  but  got  no  skunk.  Finally,  one  evening, 
there  fell  a  light  soft  snow.  Now,  I  thought,  I  will  get  my  skunk. 
I  was  out  early,  found  a  track  and  followed  it  to  within  six 
feet  of  my  trap  where  it  turned  off.  I  followed  it  further  and 
found  where  some  sheep  had  been  killed  by  wolves.  Just  part 
of  one  leg  and  some  wool  was  left.  Mr.  Skunk  had  feasted  on 
that  and  gone  on.  I  set  two  traps  right  there,  covered  them  up 
carefully,  brushed  out  my  tracks  best  I  could.  Next  morning  I 
went  to  get  my  skunk  but  he  was  not  there.  He  had  come  for 
another  meal  but  having  discovered  danger,  turned  when  within 
ten  feet  of  the  trap  and  left.  Several  others  served  me  the  same 
way  during  the  week,  so  I  gave  it  up.  That  neighbor's  rat  trap 
had  educated  them,  but  they  are  not  all  wise. 

'T  have  caught  them  by  turning  over  a  nail  keg,  placing 
a  steel  trap  in  the  front  end,  and  laying  a  small  bit  of  bacon  at 
rear  end.  I  have  caught  them  by  setting  steel  traps  in  paths 
uncovered;  have  caught  them  by  the  neck  by  placing  a  bit  of 
meat  under  the  pan  of  trap. 

"Skunks  will  gather  together  in  dens  for  the  winter,  a  dozen 
or  more  in  a  den.  Last  winter  I  caught  eighteen  at  one  den  with 
a  No.  2  Newhouse  trap.  I  kept  that  trap  there  all  winter,  day 
and  night.  Sometimes,  though,  one  or  two  only  will  stay  at  one 
place.  Towards  spring  the  toms  will  start  out  on  long  journeys, 
stopping  at  every  den  they  come  to,  and  the  man  that  undertakes 
to  run  them  down  must  prepare  for  a  long  trip. 

''One  morning  last  winter  in  going  over  my  line  of  traps, 
I  noticed  a  track  going  up  to  a  den  where  I  had  a  trap  set 
but  the  skunk  had  turned  aside  when  he  noticed  the  trap,  so 
I  made  up  my  mind  to  run  him  down.  A  soft  snow  had  fallen 
during  the  previous  day — the  brush  was  covered  with  it — but 
I  was  determined  to  get  that  skunk.  He  stopped  at  a  dozen 
different  dens,  and  led  me  through  the  worst  thickets  in  the 
forest.  Finally,  about  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  he  brought 
up  at  a  den  where  skunk  tracks  were  coming  and  going  in  all 
(lirections.    I  stopped  right  there  and  set  a  No.  2  Newhouse  in 


294 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


the  den  and  two  outside,  and  during  the  next  few  days  caught 
seven  skunks  right  there — five  of  them  females. 

"I  generally  use  No.  2  double  spring  steel  traps.  I  find  it 
pays  as  they  sometimes  pull  out  of  smaller  traps.  When  setting 
in  dens,  I  use  no  bait  and  seldom  cover  the  trap,  but  in  paths 
away  from  dens,  I  usually  cover  them  lightly  with  dried  grass 
or  leaves,  and  bait  with  smoked  bacon  under  the  pan  or  hang 
about  a  foot  above.  To  kill  them  without  scenting,  I  take  a  foot 
of  fine  brass  or  copper  wire,  make  a  loop  of  it,  tie  it  to  a  twelve 
foot  pole,  sHp  the  loop  over  the  skunk's  head,  and  pull  him 
quickly  off  the  ground.  If  caught  just  right  he  dies  in  a  few 
minutes ;  if  he  continues  to  wriggle  I  hang  the  pole  over  a  bush, 
stump,  rock  or  whatever  is  handiest,  and  look  after  the  rest  of 
my  traps ;  when  I  come  back  he  is  always  dead.'' 

Trapping  the  Skunk. 

An  Iowa  trapper  relates  his  way  of  killing  skunk  without 
the  animal  throwing  its  essence  over  him. 

'Take  a  stick  three  to  four  feet  long,  and  when  I  see  a  skunk 


BOX  TRAP. 


Especially  adapted  for  capturing  skunk,  badger  and  similar  animals. 
The  box  is  about  18  to  20  inches  long,  12  to  14  inches  deep.  The  door  is 
conveniently  hung  on  a  rod  penetrating  from  one  side  to  the  other,  as  per 
illustration.  This  trap  is  recommended  only  when  trapper  desires  to 
capture  the  animal  alive.    Bait  with  meat  or  dead  birds,  rabbits  etc. 

in  the  road  or  about  his  hole,  I  simply  walk  right  for  him,  point- 
ing the  stick  at  his  nose,  and  it's  surprising  that  the  animal  will 
stand  in  a  hypnotized  manner,  and  when  you  get  within  reach 
will  try  to  grab  the  stick.  Then  is  the  time  to  give  the  animal 
a  wsharp  blow  over  the  head.  This  will  settle  him.  I  never  trap 
or  kill  skunk  until  about  the  first  of  December,  and  not  later 
than  February." 

Trapping  the  Skunk. 

''Last  winter  I  caught  sixteen  skunks  by  setting  No.  i}^  steel 
traps  just  at  the  opening  leading  to  an  old  graveyard. 

"I  barricaded  all  other  openings,  excepting  two,  and  set  a 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


295 


trap  a  little  on  one  side  in  the  opening  and  every  morning  I  had 
one  or  two  of  them  caught.  I  killed  them  with  my  twenty-two 
rifle  by  shooting  them  in  the  head  or  eyes. 

''My  brother,  who  makes  a  business  of  trapping  each  winter, 
helped  me  to  take  the  skins  off  and  I  will  tell  you  how  he  did 
it.  He  calls  it  'his  lightning  way,'  and  sure  enough,  it  didn't 
take  him  any  time  to  take  the  skins  off  from  the  first  three 
skunks.  He  has  had  great  experience  trapping  for  the  last  ten 
or  fifteen  years,  and  selling  $300.00  to  $500.00  worth  of  fur  every 
year,  all  being  his  own  skins. 

"When  I  told  him  to  help  me,  he  went  into  the  barn,  brought 
two  knives,  a  hatchet,  two  knife-like  pieces  of  wood  made  out  of 
oak,  a  rope,  a  few  pieces  of  strong  cord,  a  small  hand  saw,  some 
nails,  and  stretchers.    This  constituted  his  outfit  for  skunks. 

"He  tied  a  string  to  each  hind  foot,  raised  the  animal  off  the 
ground,  hung  it  against  a  tree  in  which  he  first  drove  a  ten- 
penny  nail  with  his  hatchet,  and  then  took  the  small  knife  and 
made  a  slit  from  the  vent  to  where  the  strings  were  tied  on  the 
legs,  cut  around  each  leg  just  below  the  string,  and  then  pro- 
ceeded to  skin  out  the  legs.  He  then  skinned  as  far  as  possible 
down  the  body,  severed  the  tail  from  the  body,  and  pulled  the 
skin  down,  using  the  knife  as  little  as  possible.  In  no  time  he 
was  down  to  the  front  legs.  He  cut  the  legs  off  just  by  the  knee, 
and  with  one  hand  against  the  body,  the  other  holding  the  skin, 
freed  the  legs,  then  he  pulled  the  skin  down  to  the  head.  He  cut 
around  the  ears,  eyes  and  mouth,  and  the  skin  was  off.  I  don't 
think  it  took  him  five  minutes.  He  later  removed  the  string 
and  placed  it  on  another  skunk,  and  proceeded  the  same  way  as 
he  did  before. 

"When  it  came  to  stretching,  he  took  an  ordinary  single 
board  stretcher  and  with  his  hatchet  drove  four  nails — two  on 
each  side  of  the  tail  and  two  on  belly  portion — and  proceeded 
with  his  hatchet  to  scrape  off  the  surplus  fat  and  later  used  the 
two  hard-wood  knife-like  pieces,  and  in  no  time  had  the  skin 
freed  from  fat.  He  also  split  the  tail  open  and  by  attaching  a 
string  to  the  tail-bone,  pulled  the  bone  out;  at  another  time  he 
simply  ripped  the  tail  open  and  removed  the  tail-bone  by  cutting 
it  out.  When  he  was  through  with  all  the  skunks  we  took  the 
skins  home  and  he  placed  them  for  me  on  regular  wedge  stretch- 
ers. After  the  skins  were  thoroughly  dry,  I  shipped  them  to 
you  at  Minneapolis  and  you  allowed  me  from  85c  to  $1.30  apiece 
—they  being  narrow  striped  skins — and  the  average  price  I 
realized  after  freight  was  deducted  was  nearly  $1.05  each." 

Pedar  Olson. 


2$6         Andersch  ^ros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  

TRAPPING  THE  CIVET  CAT. 

This  carnivorous  animal,  feeding  on  rats,  mice  and  gophers, 
frequently  makes  a  visit  to  the  farmer's  poultry  yard.  They  are 
not  very  cunning,  readily  entering  a  trap.  If  you  set  the  trap 
at  their  dens  you  should  have  the  trap  staked  back  from  the  hole 
so  if  one  gets  in  he  will  not  pull  the  trap  back  into  the  hole 
thus  making  it  hard  to  kill  him  without  getting  scented.  Set 
traps  along  creeks,  hedges,  fences,  etc.  Before  setting  traps  take 
a  piece  of  pork  and  hold  it  over  the  fire  until  it  gets  good  and 
brown,  also  take  along  some  fish  oil  (which  can  be  purchased 
at  any  drug  store),  put  a  few  pieces  of  the  pork  and  a  few  drops 
of  the  fish  oil  around  your  traps  and  you  are  pretty  sure  of  every 
civet  cat  that  comes  that  way.  I  prefer  a  No.  i  trap  for  them, 
for  if  you  get  a  skunk  in  a  trap  set  for  them  he  will  stay  there 
while  he  would  be  apt  to  pull  out  of  a  No.  o.  Skin  them  as 
you  would  a  mink,  taking  care  not  to  cut  the  scent-glands;  it  is 
best  to  remove  them.  If  you  take  them  out,  commence  back  of 
them,  cutting  into  the  flesh  underneath  until  you  have  them  cut 
entirely  out.  Stretch  your  skin  on  a  board  like  a  mink ;  always 
.flesh  part  outside.  Leave  tail  attached.  They  are  ready  to  take 
off  the  board  in  two  weeks. 

Obrey  L.  Wolfe, 

Malvern,  Iowa. 

Trapping  the  Civet  Cat. 

The  civet  cat,  like  the  skunk,  is  an  easy  animal  to  trap.  In 
fact,  I  make  no  distinction  in  setting  the  traps,  neither  in  size  of 
traps  for  one  or  the  other.  The  traps  are  set  at  the  openings 
of  their  dens ;  at  other  times  I  make  artificial  enclosures  for  the 
trap  so  as  to  cover  the  bait  from  the  weather.  Wire  traps  are 
also  very  good.  In  fact,  I  prefer  the  wire  trap  to  the  steel  trap 
when  in  quest  of  civet  cat. 

Skinning — In  skinning  one  must  be  careful  not  to  cut  their 
scent  bags.  One  would  hardly  believe  me  when  I  state  that  I 
caught  two  civet  cats  in  one  trap,  while  living  in  the  southern  part 
of  Indiana,  but  such  is  a  fact.  Presumably  both  came  across  the 
bait  at  the  same  time,  and  being  eager  to  take  hold,  stepped  on  the 
pan.  As  far  as  bait  is  concerned,  I  use  any  old  piece  of  meat. 
No  bait  is  necessary  when  traps  are  set  in  front  of  their  dens  or 
over  their  holes.  F.  L.  Robinson. 

Trapping  the  Civet  Cat. 

Civet  cat  are  as  easy  to  trap  as  skunk.  The  only  experience 
I  have  had  in  trapping  civet  cat  especially,  was  some  years  ago 
on  the  farm,  and  having  nothing  to  do  one  December  day,  I 


Andersck  Bros/  Huniers  and  Trappers  Guide.  297 


fixed  up  an  old' smoke  stack  from  an  engine,  which  was  discarded, 
arranged  a  trap  door  at  one  end  and  the  other  end  I  pounded 
together.  This  1  carried  about  half  a  mile  and  placed  it  along  a 
fence  where  I  had  previously  seen  skunk  and  civet  cat.  I  dragged 
an  old  hen,  from  which  the  feathers  were  previously  burned 
off,  along  the  ground  in  various  directions  and  finally  threw  it  in 
the  stack.  The  next  morning  I  took  out  three  skunks  and  two 
civet  cats  and  continued  to  catch  one  or  two  of  these  animals 
every  day.  A.  L.  Berrens. 

TRAPPING  THE  WILD  CAT. 

We  have  the  following  on  trapping  the  wild  cat  from  Mr. 
John  A.  Lien,  of  Wisconsin : 

'The  wild  cat  (or  bob  cat  sometimes  called)  finds  its  home 
in  thick  woods  or  swamps,  particularly  dense  cedar  swamps.  To 
trap  these  animals  no  great  skill  is  necessary  as  they  enter  a  trap 
readily  if  properly  covered  with  some  soft  material,  such  as 
powdered  wood,  fine  grass,  or  tissue  paper  is  all  right  when  it 
is  slightly  sprinkled  with  snow  under  the  open  sky. 

'This  is  the  way  I  go  at  it :  I  build  my  camp  or  shanty  away 
from  any  settlement  in  the  centre  of  my  trapping  territory  so 
that  I  trap  four  different  ways.  To  save  walking,  I  generally 
string  my  traps  out  four  or  five  miles  either  way,  and  so  that  I 
can  see  them  every  other  day.  I  set  them  about  twenty  to  thirty 
rods  apart  and  three  traps  at  a  place  in  the  following  manner: 
First,  I  cut  stakes,  (or  logs,  if  more  convenient)  and  build  a  kind 
of  house  or  pen,  one  side  open  large  enough  for  the  cat  to  enter. 
I  place  three  traps  in  the  opening.  Then  I  get  balsam  or  spruce 
boughs  and  make  a  roof  large  enough  to  shield  the  traps  from 
rain  or  snow.  I  clog  my  traps  (I  never  stake  them  fast)  and 
cover  them  with  any  material  I  find  handy, — feathers  are  very 
well.  I  then  put  the  bait  in  the  bottom  of  the  house  or  pen,  and 
all  is  ready.  I  use  very  seldom  any  odors,  but  fish  oil  or  any 
attraction  for  mink  will  do  for  the  wild  cat.  Any  kind  of  bait 
will  do — rabbit  is  as  good  as  any.  I  make  my  trail  as  close  to  the 
settings  (as  I  call  the  place  where  I  put  my  traps)  as  I  can 
walk.  The  better  I  get  my  trail  the  surer  I  am  of  getting  my 
cat.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  take  a  proper  log  and  drag  after  you 
to  make  your  trail  more  even.  Never  make  any  sharp  turns  on 
it,  as  a  cat  will  follow  a  trail  for  any  length  if  it  is  fine  and  the 
snow  is  deep,  and  if  once  on  your  trail  she  will  yisit  every  setting 
until  she  is  caught. 

''A  good  plan  is  to  place  several  traps  where  you  see  some 
remnants  of  a  cat's  former  meal  as  she  is  most  likely  to  return. 
Leaving  a  dead  cat  surrounded  by  traps  is  also  good,  for  if  there 


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are  any  cats  in  the  vicinity  you  are  sure  of  a  visit.  The  reason 
I  set  three  traps  to  each  setting  is  because  there  are  always  more 
or  less  squirrels,  birds  or  rabbits  coming  into  them  and  when  you 
have  several  traps  close  by,  you  are  more  sure  of  getting  your 
cat  when  she  comes. 

''The  traps  I  have  used  are  various,  from  a  poor  rat  trap  to 
a  beaver  trap.  I  caught  the  most  of  them  in  mink  and  muskrat 
traps.  I  never  lost  one  that  got  in  the  trap,  and  even  if  only 
caught  by  one  claw  it  generally  holds  her.  However,  I  lost  sev- 
eral traps  from  lack  of  better  fastening  to  the  clog.  A  New- 
house  trap  No.  I  is  good  enough  but  a  No.  is  the  kind  I 
prefer/' 


COMBINATION  STEEL  TRAP  AND  SNARE  SET. 

The  snare  should  be  slightly  fastened  to  the  log-  and  side  of  tree  and 
arranged  to  a  spring  pole.  The  steel  trap  must  be  covered  with  straw, 
leaves  and  similar  vegetation,  upon  which  throw  a  thin  layer  of  loose  earth. 
The  above  arrangement  is  suitable  for  raccoons,  wild  cats,  lynx  and  similar 
animals. 

Trapping  The  Wild  Cat. 

From  a  trapper  residing  in  Utah,  Mr.  Wm.  R.  Green,  Jr., 
by  name,  we  have  the  following : 

herewith  send  my  experience  in  trapping  wild  cat.  I  first 
get  a  location  in  a  canon  or  valley  with  a  stream  running  through 
it.  Then  I  get  some  sort  of  game  meat  such  as  rabbit,  chicken 
or  venison  and  drag  it  across  the  canon  or  valley  from  mountain 
to  mountain  at  intervals  about  a  mile  apart.  I  set  a  No.  2  to  No.  4 
steel  trap  at  intervals  along  these  paths  about  two  hundred  yards 
apart.    I  will  place  the  trap  in  a  pen  of  a  rectangular  shape,  the 


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299 


point  of  pen  being  made  in  some  bush  or  bunch  of  willows  or 
against  a  tree,  and  I  then  place  the  bait  in  the  bush  or  hang  it 
on  a  limb  of  the  tree  a  little  above  and  a  little  back  of  the  trap 
and  make  it  fast  and  solid  with  a  wire  or  some  strong  cord.  The 
trap  should  be  made  fast  to  a  clog  or  stick  of  wood  about  three 
feet  long  and  about  three  inches  in  diameter.  This  clog  should 
be  covered  with  leaves  or  dirt — whichever  may  be  handiest.  The 
wild  cats  generally  travel  up  and  down  a  canon  or  valley, 
and  I  will  guarantee  that  I  can  catch  nine  out  of  every  ten  that 
crosses  my  path  in  the  way  above  described. 

''N.  B.  The  traps  should  be  covered  with  leaves  or  trash  so 
that  nothing  is  visible  and  so  that  they  will  not  freeze  down.'' 

Trapping  the  Wild  Cat. 

W.  H.  Hendershot,  a  trapper  of  twenty-five  years'  experi- 
ence, writes  as  follows : 

*T  generally  hunt  wild  cats  and  lynx  by  using  a  dog  to 
follow  the  tracks  of  the  cat.  I  assist  him  very  often  as  the  cat 
walks  logs,  climbs  trees,  etc.  But  when  the  dog  starts  the 
animal,  one  must  be  on  the  lookout  and  ready  to  shoot  as  the 
cat  will  run  here  and  there  and  all  around,  dodging  the  dog, 
and  in  order  to  save  the  dog  one  must  shoot  the  cat;  otherwise 
the  dog  would  become  useless  for  further  hunting,  should  a  fight 
ensue. 

'Tn  trapping  this  animal,  I  find,  if  possible,  remnants  of  his 
former  meal  and  set  traps  about  his  leavings,  or  place  where 
the  cat  buried  the  remaining  portion  of  his  victim. 

''The  trap,  of  course,  must  be  covered  with  leaves,  bits  of 
rotten  wood,  and  if  snow  around,  I  cover  with  snow  but  always 
have  leaves,  etc.,  under  pan.  If  any  cats  or  lynx  are  around 
you  will  catch  them,  and  sometimes  a  wolf  or  fox." 

Trapping  the  Wild  Cat. 

It  is  quite  easy  to  catch  these  animals.  They  have  their  dens 
in  clififs  and  when  these  are  not  handy,  they  are  in  holes  in  the 
ground  where  they  have  their  young.  As  a  rule,  they  stay  near 
their  dens  the  year  round.  Find  where  their  tracks  are  quite 
plentiful,  which  usually,  is  near  their  dens.  Now  make  an  en- 
closure in  a  V-shape,  or  find  a  natural  one  and  improve  it  a  little, 
so  there  is  only  one  side  for  the  animal  to  get  in  at.  For  bait, 
take  a  rabbit,  put  him  in  the  pen,  and  jerk  his  intestines  out 
so  it  will  cause  an  odor.  This  is  the  best  bait  a  trapper  can  get 
out  in  the  wilderness,  with  the  exception  of  deer  liver,  lungs,  and 
intestines,  which  is  the  best  bait  on  earth  for  these  animals. 
Sometimes  sheep  carcass  is  also  good  bait. 


300         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


Now,  if  the  enclosure  is  narrow,  use  one  trap.  If  it  is  wide, 
use  two  or  three  traps.  Set  them  in  front  of  the  enclosure  two 
feet  apart,  and  by  using  three  traps,  set  them  in  triangle  shape. 
If  I  trap  in  a  country  where  there  are  mountain  lions,  I  use  the 
set  with  three  traps,  but  if  there  are  no  lions,  just  one  trap  is 
plenty. 

A  No.  2  Newhouse,  or  Hawley  and  Norton,  will  hold  a  cat, 
but  if  you  trap  in  a  country  where  there  are  lions,  be  sure  to  use 
No.  4  of  the  same  make,  for  I  have  caught  as  many  lions  with 
this  set,  as  I  have  wild  cat  and  lynx. 

Wm.  Weibel, 

La  Porte,  Colo. 


SPRING  POLE. 

The  above  is  one  of  the  best,  cheapest  and  probably  the  surest  way  of 
raising-  the  captured  mink,  fox,  lynx,  or  even  the  wolf,  from  the  ground.  The 
steel  trap  and  chain  must  be  covered  and  care  should  be  taken  to  have  some 
leaves,  cotton  or  other  soft  substance  beneath  the  pan  to  prevent  filling 
under. 

HOW  THE  LYNX  IS  HUNTED  AND  TRAPPED. 

In  the  first  place  I  had  one  tied  up  by  the  side  of  my  door 
so  I  could  study  their  habits.  I  find  by  all  kinds  of  treatment 
they  are  vicious  and  untamable.  Will  eat  all  kinds  of  game  but 
no  vegetables  or  bread  or  any  kind  of  cooked  food.  Will  eat 
sparingly  of  fish  if  starved  to  it.  Rabbits  are  their  general  food. 
Where  you  find  great  numbers  of  rabbits  you  will  find  lynx.  They 
will  kill  young  deer,  also  young  calves ;  will  follow  a  trail  for 


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301 


miles.  Drag  a  small  piece  of  deer  paunch  as  you  walk  along,  or 
if  you  have  no  paunch,  get  five  or  six  pounds  of  beef  liver,  hang 
up  behind  the  stove  for  two  or  three  days  or  a  week  until  it  gets 
tainted  and  the  blood  begins  to  drop  out  of  it.  Then  mash  up 
to  a  jelly,  put  in  jar  and  set  away,  where  it  won't  freeze.  If  you 
happen  to  be  in  possession  of  a  beaver  carcass,  take  all  fat  off 
of  it  and  try  out  in  lard  pail ;  do  not  scorch  it.  When  cool,  take 
say  five  or  six  tablespoonfuls  of  the  beaver  oil  and  a  small  tea- 
cup of  the  mashed  liver  and  mix  both  together.  Have  this  in  a 
bottle  to  carry  with  you.  Every  half  mile,  on  going  the  rounds 
of  your  traps,  put  a  little  on  the  soles  of  your  shoes  or  mocca- 
sins; and  the  lynx  when  he  comes  to  your  trail  will  never  leave 
it  until  he  comes  to  your  trap.  If  your  trap  is  properly  set,  you 
will  have  the  lynx.  I  use  four  or  five  drops  of  anise  oil  in 
the  mixture  also. 

Now  a  lynx  as  a  general  thing  is  quite  a  genius  and  is  also 
very  inquisitive.  Never  try  to  make  a  lynx  get  in  a  trap  if  he 
has  just  had  a  good  meal  for  he  will  not  do  it.  But  he  will  follow 
your  trail  for  miles  and  look  into  each  house  you  have  got  on  the 
trail,  and  will  keep  on  going  until  he  gets  hungry.  In  order  to 
catch  them  while  on  these  rounds,  I  have  adopted  the  ''gate  on 
the  trail,''  or  the  ''double  stick  racket."  I  found  by  close  study 
that  lynx  will  always  step  in  your  tracks,  that  is,  if  you  do  not 
step  too  far.  I  never  step  over  ten  or  twelve  inches.  Do  not 
make  your  trail  too  wide ;  keep  it  as  narrow  as  you  can  in  the 
snow.  I  have  had  as  many  as  five  to  seven  lynx  follow  me  for 
over  a  mile,  just  looking  into  the  houses  and  go  on  to  the  next 
one.  So  I  made  a  little  brush  fence  for  a  couple  of  yards  or  so 
on  each  side  of  trail ;  leaving  a  small  passageway  for  myself  and 
^  the  lynx  to  pass  through.  Then  I  lay  two  small  sticks  across 
trail,  say  one  inch  in  diameter  and  about  four  inches  high  and 
seven  inches  apart;  then  set  a  No.  3  Newhouse  trap  in  center 
of  little  sticks  and  cover  up  with  wild  grass  that  I  find  around 
under  trees.  The  next  lynx  that  comes  along  will  step  over  one 
of  the  sticks  and  into  the  trap.  I  caught  no  less  than  six  lynx 
in  one  trap  this  way. 

I  make  my  lynx  houses  out  of  old  brush  and  poles.  Find  a 
good  tree  that  sheds  snow  as  much  as  possible  and  make  a  lynx 
house  by  leaning  sticks  about  five  feet  long,  up  against  it,  enclos- 
ing it  quite  tight  and  leaving  an  opening  about  fifteen  inches 
wide  facing  the  trail.  Put  bait  back  in  house  and  tie  it  fast,  and 
set  a  No.  3  trap  about  three  inches  outside  of  entrance  and  a  little 
to  one  side.  I  use  for  bait  a  small  piece  of  rabbit  with  three 
or  four  drops  of  anise  oil  and  some  of  the  liver  mixture  men- 
tioned before,  John  A.  Ble^ker^ 


302         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 
Trapping  the  Lynx. 

Lynx  are  not  difficult  to  trap.  I  have  had  pretty  good  suc- 
cess, and  you  probably  know  that  as  well  as  any  one  else  by  the 
number  of  skins  I  have  sent  you.  I  do  not  expect  to  stay  in 
British  Columbia  much  longer,  therefore  will  give  you  my  meth- 
ods of  trapping  in  this  section. 

As  far  as  traps  are  concerned,  I  prefer  the  Newhouse,  nothing 
smaller  than  No.  2^,  larger  ones  preferred,  although  I  have 
caught  a  lynx  in  a  No.  i.  He  would  have  escaped  were  it  not 
for  the  fact  that  the  jaws  held  him  by  one  of  his  toes,  and  he 
had  sense  enough  not  to  struggle. 

The  lynx  will  follow  the  trail  of  other  animals  as  well  as 
that  of  the  trapper.  I  set  my  traps  in  my  own  path,  as  well 
as  those  made  by  cattle  or  wild  beasts.  A  hole  is  made  of  suffi- 
cient size  to  hold  the  trap.    A  piece  of  dry  limb  is  laid  on  each 


DEADFALL. 

To  spring  trap,  a^nimal  steps  upon  spindle  or  presses  it  down  with  his 
belly  upon  entering  inclosure  to  obtain  bait.  Suitable  for  wolf,  fox,  lynx, 
wild  cat,  wolverine,  etc.  A  steel  trap  set  in  front  of  entrance  makes  the 
visitor's  capture  doubly  sure. 

side  of  the  trap,  so  when  the  lynx  comes  along  fie  will  prefer 
to  step  between  the  two  pieces  of  wood  and  of  course  in  the 
trap.  At  other  times  I  make  an  artificial  abode  and  set  my  trap 
within  it.  Such  sets  require  bait.  The  lynx  is  not  very  particu- 
lar as  to  what  kind  of  bait  it  is — rabbit,  grouse,  duck,  goose,  or, 
in  fact,  any  kind  of  birds  or  animals  or  parts  therefrom.  Occa- 
sionally the  traps  are  fastened  to  some  drag.  At  other  times  I 
arrange  chain  to  spring  pole.  None  of  these  are  essential,  as 
traps  fastened  on  a  stick  answer  the  purpose.  I  do  not  think 
much  about  decoy  but  have  used  beaver  castors  mixed  with  whis- 
key and  asafetida.  Have  killed  as  many  lynx  with  the  rifle  as 
with  traps,  and  probably  all  due  to  the  lynx  coming  pretty  close 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  303 


to  the  cabin  at  night.    I  usually  shoot  from  the  roof  of  the  cabin. 

Snares  are  also  very  good,  but  the  cheapest  and  best,  next 
to  steel  traps,  and  probably  the  surest,  are  deadfalls.  In  your 
first  edition,  you  had  my  favorite  deadfall  (pages  218-227). 
You  also  had  a  good  one  on  page  230,  but  in  addition  I  always 
drove  stakes  about  the  front  edges  of  logs,  thus  forcing  all  ani- 
mals to  get  in  between  the  logs.  Last  year  I  caught  one  of  the 
prettiest  black  bears  I  ever  laid  my  eyes  on  in  one  of  the  last 
described  traps.  His  head  was  flattened  and  he  died  almost 
instantly.  J.  H.  Donnly. 

Trapping  the  Lynx. 

Select  a  large  tree  close  to  where  lynx  travel  and  fasten  bait, 
which  may  be  a  rabbit  or  the  skin  therefrom  stuffed ;  tie  to  trunk 
of  tree  about  three  feet  from  ground  and  set  up  a  few  dry 
branches  or  stakes  on  both  sides  forming  kind  of  shelter  for  the 
trap  and  a  pen  so  that  they  cannot  get  the  bait  without  step- 
ping on  the  trap.  Set  your  trap  about  two  feet  in  front  of  the 
tree,  and  if  rabbits  are  numerous,  throw  a  few  branches  outside 
of  the  trap  to  keep  them  out.  Towards  the  latter  part  of  Febru- 
ary trappers  should  have  all  traps  out  set  for  lynx:  that  they  can 
possibly  attend  to,  as  at  that  time  the  lynx  will  go  more  readily 
for  bait  than  at  any  other  time  in  the  year,  and  when  one  is 
caught  its  carcass  should  be  thrown  into  the  pen  for  bait. 

T.  Gullkjkson. 

TRAPPING  THE  MOUNTAIN  LION. 

"Some  years  ago  while  at  home  near  my  uncle's  place  in  the 
mountains  of  Pennsylvania,''  relates  Mr.  Hassinger,  "a  large 
American  tiger  (mountain  lion)  made  his  existence  known  by 
peculiar  cries,  and  later,  became  visible  not  only  to  myself  but 
others. 

''We  were  often  followed  when  returning  from  work  by  this 
brute,  and  my  uncle  prepared  and  set  a  thirty-four  pound  double 
spring  steel  trap  in  his  path  and  he  felt  sure  he  would  follow  us 
some  day  from  the  mountains  and  get  into  the  trap. 

''Some  few  days  later  his  capture  was  made  known  by  the 
terrible  yells  that  caused  chills  to  overcome  those  that  heard 
him.  My  uncle,  being  an  expert  shot,  visited  the  scene  accom- 
panied by  his  two  little  boys — four  to  six  years  old.  He  took 
careful  aim  and  fired,  and  much  surprised  was  he  in  missing  the 
animal.  The  bullet  struck  the  trap,  breaking  it,  and  at  the  same 
time  freeing  the  brute.  If  there  ever  was  a  time  that  he  wished 
his  second  shot  to  count,  the  time  had  come  and  he  prayed  that 
his  aim  might  be  good  and  he  be  relieved  from  responsibility 
of  taking  the  children  with  him  for  such  a  task.    Before  the  ani- 


304         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


mal  was  able  to  use  his  benumbed  paw,  my  uncle  again  took 
careful  aim  and  fired,  and  his  prayers  were  answered  by  the  bullet 
striking  the  animal  in  the  head  and  the  brute  reeling  over  to  the 
ground. 

''Careful  investigation  showed  that  after  the  brute  was  caught 
in  the  thirty-four  pound  trap  he  made  various  leaps  in  the  air 
— the  greatest  of  them  was  when  he  cleared  thirty-two  feet  with- 
out touching  the  ground,  carrying  with  him  in  the  air  a  weight 
of  thirty-four  pounds. 

"This  tiger  is  the  largest  I  have  ever  seen  and  adorns  the 
back  parlor  of  my  uncle's  mountain  home." 

Trapping  the  Mountain  Lion. 

My  experience  in  trapping  the  mountain  lion  is  limited,  as 
I  prefer  to  bring  him  down  with  the  rifle.  I  came  across  these 
brutes  many  times  while  in  the  Yukon  country.  It  seems  to  me 
that  the  brutes  there  are  much  larger  than  those  in  Colorado. 
They  tell  me  that  the  animal  is  very  plentiful  in  parts  of  Alaska. 

While  in  Colorado  we  caught  one  of  these  animals  in  a 
wolf  trap.  It  was  either  No.  4  or  4^  trap  and  the  lion  sprung 
it  with  his  front  paw.  The  trap  got  a  good  hold  of  him,  and 
notwithstanding  that  he  dragged  the  trap  and  the  post  to  which  it 
was  attached,  for  miles,  we  finally  got  him,  though  spending  the 
best  part  of  the  day  to  find  him.  He  was  a  vicious  brute  and 
none  of  us  dared  to  go  near  him.  We  finally  had  to  kill  him 
with  the  rifle. 

One  of  the  largest  lions  I  ever  killed  in  the  Yukon  country 
must  have  weighed  125  to  150  pounds,  and  measured  from  nose 
to  tip  of  tail  at  least  eight  and  one-half  or  nine  feet.  I  would 
take  my  chances  any  time  with  a  bear  instead  of  one  of  these 
brutes.  C.  J.  Loomis. 

TRAPPING  THE  FOX. 

If  every  other  method  fails,  the  following,  if  properly  done, 
will  crown  you  with  success. 

In  some  out-of-the-way  place,  which  foxes  are  known  to 
frequent,  away  from  the  public  road  and  from  dogs,  on  side  of 
small  hill  out  of  view  of  roads,  houses  and  other  places  of  habi- 
tation, drop  a  load  of  barn  manure  from  a  wagon  or  sled  but  do 
not  step  off  the  wagon  or  sled.  In  unloading  the  manure  make 
a  round  pile  somewhat  flat  on  top.  In  a  few  days  drive  to  the 
place  again  and  drop  from  the  wagon  or  sled  the  stomach  and 
intestines  from  a  freshly  butchered  hog,  sheep  or  other  animal. 
Place  this  on  top  of  the  pile  and  slightly  cover  with  manure. 
Now  take  two  or  three  fox  traps  and  set  them  twelve  to  fourteen 
inches  outside  of  bait.    Before  setting  traps  see  that  they  are  in 


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305 


good  working  order,  and  either  have  them  soaked  in  blood  or 
smoke  them.  Fasten  chain  to  some  drag,  which  may  be  a  limb, 
piece  of  fence  post  or  any  object  weighing  ten  to  fifteen  pounds, 
unless  it  be  a  limb,  in  which  case  it  can  be  much  lighter.  Cover 
every  part  of  the  trap  and  chain  with  old  manure,  and  take  es- 
pecial pains  in  covering  the  trap  with  fine  grass  or  rotten  wood, 
leaves  or  feathers,  in  fact,  anything  that  is  light  and  yielding.  If 
one  prefers  a  few  drops  of  anise  oil  or  other  decoy  may  be  used 
about  the  trap.  Have  known  foxes  to  be  attracted  three  or  four 
miles,  apparently  the  wind  taking  the  smell  such  a  distance,  and 
where  the  fox  or  wolf  once  sniffs  the  odor  he  is  sure  to  locate  the 
bait  and  of  course  becomes  caught.  The  manure  has  a  tendency 
to  overcome  the  human  scent,  and  again,  manure  piles,  such  as 
above  described,  are  natural  signs  to  the  animal. 

N.  C. 

Trapping  the  Fox. 

Mr.  Patrick  Laughrey,  West  Broughton,  Canada,  uses  the 
following  method  in  trapping  foxes:  To  trap  the  fox  I  use  a 
No.  4  B.  &  L.  trap.  I  usually  provide  a  place  to  set  these  traps 
two  or  three  weeks  or  a  month  before  time  to  trap.  My  favorite 
place  is  to  go  to  a  small  stream  or  spring  and  choose  a  place 
where  there  is  no  bank ;  take  a  hoe  and  dig  a  place  in  the  side  for 
trap,  so  that  the  water  will  be  one  and  one-half  inches  deep 
when  trap  is  set.  Place  some  sod  on  pan  so  as  to  be  level  with 
the  remaining  shore.  Then  I  procure  another  piece  of  sod  that 
has  long  grass  on.  This  I  place  about  twelve  inches  from  the 
shore  in  the  water.  The  sod  should  protrude  a  little  above  the 
water.  After  making  everything  natural,  I  leave  the  place.  In 
a  few  days  I  return  and  place  the  bait  on  the  little  island  and 
within  the  tall  grass.  It  is  a  good  policy  to  sprinkle  water  all 
over  the  set  before  you  leave  it  the  fir^t  day.  Any  bait  will  do, 
but  I  prefer  that  made  as  follows : 

"Take  a  quart  screw-top  jar,  into  which  put  the  carcass  of  a 
muskrat  finely  cut  up.  Also  the  fat  of  a  skunk  and  their  scent 
bag  and  the  entrails  of  three  field  mice.  Screw  on  cover,  not 
too  tight  and  then  bury  the  can  in  a  pile  of  manure  which  has 
heated  for  three  weeks,  and  leave  it  for  several  weeks;  then  it 
is  ready  to  use.  I  usually  take  a  clean  stick  and  smear  part  of 
this  mixture  on  the  grass  or  lay  some  of  it  between  the  grass 
on  the  sod.  I  assure  the  trappers  that  this  is  a  very  good  bait. 
Caught  twenty-seven  foxes  last  season." 

Trapping  the  Fox. 

Sir  Reynard  has  not  only  a  very  fine  scent,  but  is  an  exceed- 
ingly acute  observer.  He  notices  everything  that  has  been  moved 


306 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


or  laid  amiss  and  cautiously  steers  clear  of  all  objects  that  have 
the  least  suspicious  look ;  yet  for  all  this,  he  can  be  easily  trapped 
in  several  different  ways.  By  using  judgment,  and  exercising 
patience,  and  as  the  object  of  this  article  is  to  tell  how  that  can 
be  done  successfully,  I  will  not  dwell  on  his  peculiar  character- 
istics further  than  is  necessary  to  tell  how  he  can  be  caught. 

One  way  to  bait  traps  for  red  foxes  is  with  live  rabbits.  Make 
a  chain  two  and  one-half  or  three  feet  long  out  of  small  wire. 
Put  a  small  leather  strap  in  one  end  and  buckle  or  tie  this  around 
bunnie's  neck.  Drive  a  stake  in  the  ground  where  the  fox  is  in 
the  habit  of  passing  and  fasten  the  other  end  of  the  chain  to  the 
top  of  the  stake,  which  should  be  on  a  level  with  the  ground  to 


An  original  practical  and  worthy  contrivance,  suitable  for  capturing 
mink,  fox,  wolf  and  other  similar  sized  animals.  If  this  contrivance  is  placed 
where  wolves,  foxes  and  minks  are  very  numerous,  it  is  well  to  set  ad- 
ditional traps.  A  snare  properly  placed  immediately  at  the  opening  may 
also  be  effective,  but  should  be  used  only  in  connection  with  the  spring  pole. 
Newhouse  No.  1  to  No.  2  traps  are  recommended. 


keep  the  rabbit  from  winding  the  chain  up.  Set  one-half  dozen 
steel  traps  far  enough  from  the  stake  that  the  rabbit  cannot 
throw  them.  When  Mr.  Fox  sees  bunnie  hopping  around,  he 
forgets  all  danger  and  makes  a  rush.  In  his  effort  to  get  the 
rabbit,  he  gets  in  the  trap.  This  method  has  its  drawbacks,  as  it  is 
difficult  to  keep  a  rabbit  alive  after  the  second  night,  if  tied  by 
the  neck. 


SCREENED   ROOSTER  TRAP. 


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307 


Another  way  of  baiting  for  the  red  fox,  is  to  go  to  some 
stream,  where  they  are  in  the  habit  of  travelling  on  the  ice. 
Take  a  half  rabbit,  split  open  lengthwise,  and  nail  or  tie  it  to  a 
stump,  log,  root,  or  perpendicular  bank,  with  the  lower  end 
resting  on  the  ice.  As  soon  as  the  ice  is  sufficiently  strong, 
set  a  steel  trap  on  the  ice  in  front  of  the  rabbit.  The  first  snow 
that  falls,  the  fox  will  take  to  the  ice,  stop  at  your  rabbit  and  get 
his  foot  in  the  trap.  It  does  not  matter  if  there  is  nothing  left  of 
the  rabbit  except  the  hide  and  bones. 

Another  very  good  method  is  to  go  to  some  stream  where  they 
are  in  the  habit  of  travelling  on  the  ice.  Find  a  rock  that  pro- 
trudes a  few  inches  above  the  surface,  or  a  log  that  lays  length- 
wise up  and  down  the  stream,  and  half  above  the  water.  Set 
a  trap  at  the  upper  and  lower  sides  of  the  rock,  or  at  the  ends 
of  the  log.  Then  wait  until  it  snows.  Foxes  almost  invariably 
walk  over  the  top  of  any  object  that  raises  above  the  level  of  the 
ice  when  it  is  covered  with  snow.  A  small  log  can  be  placed  on 
the  ice  for  this  purpose,  after  it  freezes  and  before  it  snows.  The 
log  should  always  point  up  and  down  the  stream. 

Still  another  very  successful  method  is  to  find  some  den  or 
hole  where  they  are,  or  where  they  are  likely  to  congregate 
during  the  running  or  mating  season.  Set  your  traps  clear  out- 
side the  hole,  where  he  will  have  to  walk  up  to  look  in.  Then 
wait  until  it  snows.  Foxes  examine  these  places  especially  right 
after  a  snow  fall.  Then  if  you  have  your  traps  set,  you  get 
Mr.  Fox.  Foxes  seldom  go  into  these  dens,  except  the  females 
after  the  mating  season  is  over.  But  they  all  visit  these  places, 
just  before,  during,  and  just  after  the  mating  season. 

When  trapping  for  foxes,  I  always  use  a  common  No.  ij^ 
trap.  I  always  fasten  a  trap  that  I  set  for  a  fox  with  wire  or  a 
grape  vine,  ten,  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  away  from  the  trap  and 
two  or  three  feet  from  the  ground  to  a  springy  bush.  Never  go 
to  a  trap  that  is  set  for  a  fox,  unless  it  is  absolutely  necessary, 
until  you  catch  the  fox.  Pass  by  near  enough  to  see  if  all  is 
right.  Let  well  enough  alone.  Have  patience  and  you  will  be 
successful.  E.  G.  Alldredge, 

Russellville,  Mo. 

Trapping  the  Fox. 

"I  first  locate  their  haunts,  then  when  trapping  season  is 
about  in  (around  December  ist),  I  take  a  little  straw  or  hay  and 
pile  it  up,  say  fifty  or  one  hundred  yards  from  their  dens  or 
passes,  and  burn  it.  Let  it  lay  two  or  three  days  until  the  burnt 
smell  is  gone,  then  set  your  traps  in  the  ash  pile,  as  many  as 
you  like.  I  use  No.  i}4  Newhouse  traps  and  find  they  are  large 
enough  for  fox  and  smaller  game.    Put  ash  piles  about  four  or 


308 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


six  feet  square  and  five  or  six  inches  deep.  This  makes  a  good 
set  in  all  kinds  of  weather.  Set  three  or  four  traps  in  ashes  about 
one  or  two  feet  apart  and  fasten  about  two  traps  each  to  a  little 
pole  or  stone  just  big  enough  so  they  can  move  it  a  little;  in  this 
way  they  are  not  so  apt  to  get  loose.  Set  traps  in  form  of  circle 
in  the  ash  pile  and  bait  with  chicken  in  centre  of  ashes,  cover- 
ing your  trap  lightly  with  ashes,  also  your  drag  or  weights. 
Then  strew  some  feathers  around  ash  pile  and  over  traps,  using 
caution  not  to  spit  or  make  too  many  tracks  around  your  sets, 
as  Mr.  Fox  has  a  cute  nose,  in  fact,  he  is  cute  all  over;  when 
set  is  made  brush  all  tracks  over  with  brush  or  weeds  and  leave 
very  carefully  for  Mr.  Fox's  inspection.  He  will  come  when  the 
weather  gets  cold  and  stormy,  and  you  will  get  him  sure ;  try  it, 
boys. 


CONCEALED  STEEL  TRAP. 

The  above  is  an  excellent  set  for  fox,  raccoon,  also  aquatic  animals. 
Set  one  or  two  traps  on  some  artificial  island,  16  to  18  inches  from  the 
shore,,  cover  in  usual  manner  and  place  bait  on  a  stick  18  to  20  inches 
above  the  set.  Attach  chain  to  spring  pole  or  drag.  One  or  more  steel 
traps  can  be  concealed  at  the  nearest  approach  to  the  island  from  which 
the  fox  usually  jumps  to  obtain  a  foothold  upon  the  island.  If  clog  is  used 
same   must   be  buried. 

'1  have  had  good  luck  with  this  kind  of  sets,  catching  twenty 
odd  each  winter  for  the  past  three  winters.  Try  it,  using  care  in 
making  your  sets,  and  you  will  have  success  in  catching  fox  on 
the  prairies  of  the  Northwest."  R.  B.  A. 

Trapping  the  Fox. 

Mr.  Martin  Brenner,  a  Minnesota  trapper,  favors  us  with 
the  following: 

''I  have  trapped  foxes,  minks,  wolves,  etc.,  in  Beltrami  county. 


A.idersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  309 


Minnesota,  and  I  must  admit  that  there  is  no  grander  sport  than 
the  trapping  of  foxes. 

''But,  before  continuing  my  narrative,  I  must  say  a  word 
or  two  about  myself.  I  am  an  old  trapper  and  woodsman 
with  considerable  practice. 

''In  the  fall  of  1899  I  found  myself,  together  with  a  hunting 
party,  in  Beltrami  county,  and  there  I  saw  'signs'  which  led  me 
to  believe  that  I  could  find  no  better  place  for  my  winter 
trapping. 

"I  at  once  sent  for  a  supply  of  traps,  ammunition,  etc.,  and 
set  to  work  on  a  cabin.  It  was  slow  work,  and  it  was  Novem- 
ber isth  before  it  was  ready.  I  then  received  a  goodly  supply 
of  traps,  ammunition  and  provisions. 

"I  now  began  cutting  logs  and  building  log  traps,  which,  as 
all  woodsmen  know,  was  also  very  slow  work.  By  November 
25th  I  had  built  eight  log  traps,  seven  feet  square  at  the  bottom, 
tapering  to  four  feet  square  at  the  top,  and  five  or  six  feet  high. 
I  did  this  work  almost  foi  nothing,  as  I  caught  only  one  fox  in 
them  all. 

"But  log  traps  were  not  my  only  resource.  I  had  ordered  two 
dozen  mink  traps,  one  dozen  fox  traps  and  one  dozen  otter  traps 
with  teetn.  These  latter,  though  the  most  expensive,  proved  also 
the  most  effective. 

"I  set  traps  around  the  carcasses  of  foxes  and  sprinkled  there- 
on a  few  arops  of  oil  of  rhodium  and  oil  of  bergamot,  mixed 
half  and  half.  These  oils  have  a  wonderful  attraction  for  foxes, 
wolves,  minks,  etc.,  and  I  once  caught  four  foxes  around  a  fox 
carcass — all  within  a  week. 

"I  also  caught  a  great  many  foxes  by  setting  traps  in  their 
holes.  I  first  smeared  blood  on  the  traps,  and  after  setting  them, 
sprinkled  water  all  around. 

"That  winter  I  caught  twenty-seven  red  foxes,  nine  cross 
foxes,  nine  young  foxes,  four  wolves  and  seventeen  minks.  I 
shot  one  red  fox,  one  mink,  and  a  number  of  rabbits  and  other 
animals,  which  I  used  for  food. 

"By  shipping  the  furs  to  the  best  fur  establishments  in  Min- 
neapolis I  realized  nearly  twice  what  I  could  have  got  in  towns 
near  where  I  camped.'' 

Trapping  the  Fox. 

The  following  fox  set  has  been  used  by  me  for  the  last 
three  years  and  is  original  as  far  as  I  know.  Am  also  sending 
you  herewith  two  photos.  Have  had  good  success  with  this 
earth  set  and  I  recommend  it  to  your  consideration. 

This  set  can  be  made  in  a  pasture,  fields  or  in  woodland. 
Choose  places  as  free  from  small  stones  as  possible;  when  there 


310         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


are  stones,  they  should  be  carefully  picked  out,  as  they  are  very 
apt  to  catch  between  the  jaws  of  the  trap  and  prevent  them 
shutting  close. 

The  sod  and  stones  should  be  removed  from  a  place  eighteen 
inches  in  diameter  and  with  a  hoe,  or  some  tool,  dig,  chop,  and 
work  the  dirt  until  you  have  it  fine,  and  free  from  all  roots, 
sticks,  etc.,  to  a  depth  of  six  inches.  The  finer  the  dirt,  the 
better.  Have  a  piece  of  cloth  of  some  sort  three  or  four  feet 
square  to  put  sods,  stones,  etc.,  on.  When  the  bed  is  finished 
take  up  the  cloth  by  the  four  corners  and  carry  away  to  a  dis- 
tance, say  ten  rods,  and  dump  in  some  inconspicuous  place. 

Beds  should  be  made  several  days  before  setting  traps.  In 
placing  the  trap,  set  it  at  a  distance;  have  everything  you  will 
need  with  you;  walk  directly  to  bed.  Dig  a  hole  in  the  center 
deep  enough  to  hold  grapple,  chain  and  trap.  Place  the  creeper 
with  one  prong  down  on  bottom  of  hole  and  press  down  till  the 
other  two  prongs  lie  flat  on  bottom,  coil  chain  top  of  creeper,  put 
in  a  little  dirt,  and  bed  trap  firmly  in  this.  Put  a  little  paper, 
leaves,  or  something  over  trap  to  keep  out  loose  dirt,  then  gently 
level  over  the  whole  trap,  about  one-half  inch  of  dirt.  Smooth 
the  whole  bed  level  with  bush  or  stick;  drop  four  or  five  drops 
of  decoy  six  or  eight  inches  from,  and  on  each  side  of  trap. 
Now  pass  straight  on  to  next  trap.  Do  not  move  the  feet,  or 
step  about,  while  making  the  set.  Walk  up,  stop,  and  stand  still 
while  you  work.  All  movements  leave  signs  that  are  hard  to 
efface. 

Decoy :  To  one  ounce  of  pure,  home-made  trout  oil,  add 
ten  or  twelve  drops  of  skunk  musk,  and  the  scent  glands  of  two 
or  three  muskrats  (males,  and  must  be  taken  in  the  springtime). 

When  tending  traps,  go  only  near  enough  to  see  that  every- 
thing is  all  right.  If  trap  is  gone,  there  will  be  a  distinct  hollow 
in  bed.   The  B.  &  L.  No.  3  or  4  is  especially  good  for  this  set. 

L.  J.  Wright, 
Collinsville,  Conn. 

Trapping  the  Fox. 

In  order  to  trap  foxes  in  snow,  you  must  first  find  where 
they  travel  or  the  places  where  their  traces  are  most  numerous. 
Look  up  and  down  old  wood  roads,  and  in  and  around  swampy 
places.  When  you  are  sure  you  have  found  where  they  frequent 
most,  follow  along  their  tracks  until  you  come  to  a  small  bush 
or  tree  twenty  or  thirty  feet  away  from  their  path.  Notice  the 
bush  and  the  surroundings  carefully  so  you  can  find  it  when 
you  come  to  set  your  traps.  As  soon  as  you  feel  a  snow-storm 
coming,  take  three  or  four  Blake  &  Lamb  traps,  and  a  hen,  or 
Jeg  of  a  horse  or  cow,  and  cut  some  limbs  four  to  six  feet  long 


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311 


with  the  branches  about  three  inches  long  to  fasten  your  trap 
chain  to  for  a  drag.  Go  to  the  bush  and  tie  your  bait  securely 
about  twelve  inches  from  the  ground  and  about  ten  feet  away  set 
your  traps  forming  a  circle.  Dig  out  the  snow  just  deep  enough 
to  set  your  trap  in.  Put  large,  dry  leaves  in  the  bottom  of  the 
trap  hole  and  set  the  trap  on  top,  also  put  leaves  on  top  of  trap 
and  brush  just  enough  snow  over  it  to  cover  lightly.  Cover  the 
chain  and  lay  clog  or  drag  in  the  snow  out  of  sight.  Set  your 
traps  about  ten  feet  apart,  forming  a  circle  around  the  tree. 
Now  about  one  hundred  feet  away  put  a  few  drops  of  scent  on 
some  old  dry  limb,  up  as  high  or  higher  than  your  head  if 
you  can. 

Take  some  muskrat's  musk,  and  mix  it  well  with  foxes' 
musk  and  honey.    This  is  a  good  scent. 

Now,  when  the  snow  comes,  it  will  cover  your  traps,  and 
tracks,  and  the  scent  will  entice  the  foxes  in  there,  and  when 
they  are  there,  they  will  be  attracted  by  the  bait.  If  they  are 
hungry,  they  will  walk  around  and  around  it,  coming  closer  each 
time  around,  and  are  very  liable  to  step  in  one  of  the  traps.  At- 
tend your  traps  about  every  other  day  and  don't  go  any  closer  to 
the  traps  than  you  can  help.  The  farther  you  keep  off,  the 
quicker  you  will  catch  foxes.  Take  plenty  of  time  in  fixing  your 
traps,  and  use  care  about  smoking  and  spitting  around  or  near 
the  setting.  Ed.  Brehmer, 

Spring  Valley,  Minn. 
Trapping  the  Fox. 

L.  M.  Pickens,  Mooresville,  Tenn.,  writes:  'Tor  trapping 
foxes  around  pastures  and  fields,  the  following  method  can  be 
relied  upon,  and  is  familiarly  known  as  the  path  method : 

"Look  for  fox  tracks  in  stock  paths,  about  the  fields,  pastures 
and  woods,  old  roads  not  much  used,  places  under  fences,  gullies 
and  washouts,  sand-bars  along  the  streams,  and  chances  are  you 
will  see  fox  tracks  going  and  coming.  Then  select  narrow  places 
and  dig  a  pit  just  the  size  of  trap  to  be  used,  having  the  springs 
laid  lengthwise  in  the  path  or  trail — not  across  it — just  deep 
enough  so  the  trap  will  be  a  little  below  the  surface  level  when 
put  in  the  pit.  Cover  over  the  springs  and  around  the  outside  of 
jaws  with  soft  dirt,  put  wool,  cotton,  or  soft  dry  moss  inside  of 
jaws  and  under  pan,  or  lay  flat  leaves,  thin  paper  or  a  small 
piece  of  cloth  over  entire  trap,  then  pulverize  fine  some  dirt  and 
sprinkle  enough  over  the  trap  to  entirely  conceal  it,  always  fin- 
ishing to  look  natural  as  before  the  set  was  undertaken.  Com- 
plete the  set  by  laying  a  dead  weed  an  inch  or  two  from  the  trap 
so  the  fox  will  step  over  it  and  into  the  trap.  Fasten  your  chain 
with  bailing  wire  to  the  middle  of  a  green  cut  limby  brush,  the 


312         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  (juide. 


size  and  length  of  a  hoe  handle,  and  conceal  the  chain.  No  bait 
to  be  used/' 

Trapping  the  Fox. 

"Here  is  my  method  of  catching  and  trapping  the  red  fox. 
It  may  seem  queer,  but  nevertheless  it  is  very  efifective. 

''Take  a  common  house  cat — whether  it  is  your  wife's  pet 
or  not,  doesn't  make  any  difference.    Tie  a  wire  around  the 


Excellent  Result 

5  Red  Foxes  Courtesy  of  Nat.  Sportsman 


cat's  neck,  either  before  you  kill  it  or  after  the  cat  is  dead.  Then 
roast  the  cat  with  the  skin  on  over  an  outside  fire  until  the  cat 
is  fairly  roasted,  being  brown  and  juicy.  Then  insert  in  a  sack 
and  carry  it  until  you  are  in  the  vicinity  of  the  place  that  you 
anticipate  setting  your  trap.  Then  drag  the  bag  in  various  di- 
rections about  the  trap,  and  proceed  to  make  a  hole  about 
six  inches  deep,  into  which  insert  the  cat,  leaving  part  outside. 


Andersch  Bros/  Bunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


313 


Cover  portions  below  the  surface  with  earth  and  make  a 
small  mound  around  the  other  portion,  leaving  an  opening  in 
the  centre,  so  as  to  make  the  appearance  similar  to  a  gopher  hole. 
Now  take  two  No.  2  steel  traps,  fasten  to  a  stick  driven  in  the 
ground  or  to  a  clog,  both  covered  up  and  made  invisible.  Place 
one  trap  over  the  hole,  covering  up  both  springs  and  placing  a 
little  dirt  on  pan.  The  other  trap  set  on  windward  side.  The 
fox  will  go  at  bait  from  that  side.  Remember  to  cover  the  trap 
up  and  leave  the  surroundings  very  smooth,  so  as  to  be  natural. 
In  case  of  snow,  don't  go  near  the  trap  until  it  is  sprung  unless 
you  have  reasons  to  believe  that  the  setting  is  not  proper  or 
frozen  under.  The  trap  might  not  be  touched  for  some  few  days, 
but  generally  the  fox  seeks  the  bait  after  a  little  snow. 

*Tn  my  time  I  have  caught  over  one  hundred  red  foxes — 
nineteen  of  them  last  year.  My  fifteen  years'  experience  cer- 
tainly amounts  to  something.  Tell  your  friends  about  it,  but 
don't  use  my  name." 

Trapping  the  Fox. 

'T  thought  I  would  write  a  little  of  my  experience  in  hunt- 
and  trapping  the  fox,"  writes  Mr.  A.  Carpenter,  of  Witoka, 
Minn.,  "as  I  have  made  it  a  business  for  several  years  past,  and 
know  something  about  their  habits. 

'T  have  made  a  business  of  still  hunting  without  any  dog,  and 
have  made  good  success  of  it  in  the  Southeastern  part  in  the 
State  of  Minnesota,  where  the  foxes  are  very  plentiful  in  the 
bluff  country  along  the  Mississippi  River  and  Root  River  Val- 
leys ;  both  red  and  grey  foxes  are  found  here. 

'T  start  in  the  morning  after  a  new  snow  and  go  out  over 
the  hills  until  I  strike  a  fresh  fox  track.  Then  follow  it  until  have 
got  on  the  bluffs,  for  no  care  is  needed  in  being  quiet  while  the 
fox  is  running  on  the  flat.  There  is  where  he  goes  to  hunt 
for  mice,  of  which  he  is  very  fond,  especially  the  common  meadow 
mole  or  grass  mole,  which  also  makes  very  good  bait  to  use  in 
trapping.  This  is  also  a  safe  bait  to  put  out  with  poison  in,  as  dogs 
will  not  touch  it.  The  right  amount  of  poison  to  use  is  about 
one  dram  bottle  to  six  baks,  if  moles  are  used  for  bait.  As  the 
mouse  will  freeze  very  hard,  it  takes  more  poison  to  do  the  work 
quickly,  and  if  that  amount  is  used  he  won't  go  over  40  rods 
from  where  he  eats  the  bait.    I  killed  55  last  winter  this  way. 

"But  to  go  on  with  hunting  the  fox.  After  he  leaves  the  flat 
and  goes  on  the  hill  or  brush,  then  some  care  is  needed  in  going 
still,  and  if  you  see  the  fox  is  walking  you  can  make  up  your 
mind  the  fox  will  not  go  much  further  before  he  lies  down ;  and 
he  is  almost  sure  to  lie  down  in  a  bunch  of  red  grass  or  in  hazel 
brush,  if  there  is  any  to  be  found,  and  always  on  the  south  side 


314 


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of  the  bluff  or  point.  If  there  is  neither  brush  nor  grass,  he  is 
pretty  sure  to  he  down  behind  some  small  stone,  with  his  back 
against  it  so  he  can't  be  seen  from  the  lower  side  of  the  hill 
and  so  he  can  watch  the  upper  side  and  his  back  tracks.  Conse- 
quently, lots  of  care  is  needed  to  move  quietly,  for  they  are  very 
quick  to  hear  and  very  cunning.  I  have  known  a  man  to  walk 
up  within  two  or  three  rods  of  one  and  then  scare  him  up  and 
yet  never  see  him  sneak  away  in  almost  clear  ground  for  20  ror^s, 
and  without  the  hunter  knowing  that  he  had  frightened  him  awdv. 
If  he  lies  down  on  the  point,  which  he  is  quite  apt  to  do,  he  will 
always  lie  down  with  his  nose  pointing  down  hill,  and  it  is  eas- 
ier to  get  up  to  him  by  coming,  down  the  point  on  him. 


UNCOVERED  STEEL  TRAP  SET. 

An  easily  constructed  contrivance,  having  a  live  rooster,  hen,  squirrel 
or  rabbit  for  bait.  If  properly  made  and  placed  no  better  all-around  set  exists 
for  capturing  the  barnyard  thief,  as  well  as  raccoon,  skunk,  mink,  and  is 
suitable  for  all  animals  possessing  carnivorous  habits.  The  steel  traps 
should  be  covered,  also  the  clog.  Use  No.  iy2  Newhouse  traps.  If  set  for 
wolves  or  foxes,  a  larger  size  trap  must  be  used. 

''In  trapping  them  the  best  way  is  to  take  a  sack  of  oat  straw 
or  chaff  and  throw  down  in  their  paths  or  where  they  run  fre- 
quently, and  after  it  has  been  there  for  a  week  or  so,  the  foxes  will 
be  sure  to  come  there  to  play  and  look  for  mice.  You  want  to  set 
the  traps  in  the  chaff  and  cover  them  and  the  clogs  with  c:haff, 
and  you  will  be  sure  to  catch  some  foxes  this  way.  Powdered 
fetty  is  a  very  good  thing  to  put  on  the  traps  and  around  the 
chaff,  as  they  like  the  smell  of  it.  About  the  first  of  January 
catch  a  female  fox  and  cut  the  entire  sexual  part,  which  smells 
very  strong  and  drag  it  along  over  traps  and  around  the  bait,  and 
the  male  fox  will  be  sure  to  follow  it. 

''Well,  I  have  written  about  all  the  main  points  I  have  found 
out  through  experience  in  my  hunting  and  trapping  the  fox  for 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


315 


the  last  six  or  seven  winters,  and  what  I  write  here  I  know  to  be 
true  and  I  hope  it  will  prove  to  be  of  some  value  to  my  fellow 
friends/' 

Trapping  the  Fox. 

Mr.  G.  Halvorson,  of  Arvilla,  writes  that  he  has  been  very 
successful  in  trapping.    Read  what  he  says  below : 

"Have  been  very  successful  in  trapping  foxes.  Procure  a  dead 
horse  or  colt,  drag  it  to  a  place  where  red  foxes  are  known  to 
roam.  Leave  it  there  for  a  time  until  you  have  evidence  of  foxes 
partaking  therefrom.  Then  is  the  time  to  set  your  traps  about 
the  animal;  attach  each  trap  to  a  clog  or  drag  (must  not  be  too 
heavy).  Cover  with  weeds,  grass  and  snow.  I'll  bet  my  farm 
that  a  No.  i  imitation  Newhouse  trap  will  not  hold  him  every 
time. 

''Other  times  when  setting  traps,  I  use  ashes  from  burnt 
wheat  straw.  I  take  a  piece  of  newspaper,  just  enough  to  cover 
the  trap,  and  sprinkle  ashes  about  one  inch  on  the  paper  which 
covers  the  steel  trap.  On  top  of  this  I  take  snow  and  just  suffi- 
cient to  make  everything  look  natural. 

'TVe  caught  foxes  in  traps  set  in  a  pile  of  ashes.  They  come 
to  a  burnt  straw  stack  because  large  numbers  of  mice  are  gen- 
erally found  there,  and  these  the  foxes  eat  with  a  relish.'' 

Trapping  the  Fox. 

Elsewhere  will  be  found  his  article  on  skinning  the  r^d  fox. 
Note  the  article  below  from  G.  Miller,  of  Conway,  about 
red  foxes. 

"The  trap  should  be  well  smeared  with  blood  or  beeswax  to 
destroy  the  odor  of  the  iron.  Set  it  in  soft  earth,  packing  moss 
or  leaves  lightly  around  the  pan  and  jaws.  Bait  with  fried  meat. 
To  make  the  allurement  doubly  sure,  obtain  from  the  female  of 
the  dog,  fox  or  wolf  the  matrix  in  the  season  of  coition  and  pre- 
serve it  in  alcohol,  tightly  corked.  Leave  a  small  portion  of 
on  something  near  the  trap,  also  when  visiting  the  traps  put 
some  on  your  boots. 

"Another  method  is  to  make  a  bed  of  chaff  in  the  open  field  in 
a  locality  the  fox  frequents,  but  when  it  will  be  least  likely  to  be 
visited  by  passing  hunters.  Visit  it  daily  and  stir  into  chafif 
every  old  scrap  of  meat  made  fine  or  toasted  cheese,  using  utmost 
caution  not  to  chinge  the  appearance  of  the  bed  or  its  surround- 
ings, and  make  as  few  tracks  as  possible.  The  materials  of  which 
the  bed  is  composed  should  not  be  handled  any  more  than  is  ab- 
solutely necessary.  Too  much  care  cannot  be  taken  in  making 
the  beds,  for  if  foxes  are  plenty  and  you  get  several  to  visit  it, 


316 


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it  will  last  for  sometime  and  will  afford  you  a  great  deal  of  amuse- 
ment. As  soon  as  you  are  satisfied  the  fox  has  visited  the  bed 
regularly  for  five  or  six  nights,  you  may  put  in  your  trap.  It 
should  be  fastened  to  a  clog  light  enough  for  a  fox  to  drag,  but 
heavy  enough  so  that  he  cannot  get  too  far  away,  though  if  there 
is  no  snow  on  the  ground  there  will  be  some  difficulty  in  finding 
him  if  he  goes  some  distance.  He  may  be  caught  the  first  night, 
but  more  likely  than  not,  will  dig  out  your  trap  or  show  his  con- 
tempt in  some  other  way,  compelling  you  to  bring  into  force  all 
your  ingenuity  before  your  efforts  are  successful.'' 

Trapping  the  Fox. 

J.  Stephen,  of  Hart,  writes  the  following  on  foxes : 
''I  will  give  you  my  two  best  methods  of  catching  Reynard, 
The  Fox. 

"First  find  a  place  in  the  woods  where  there  is  a  fox  run-way 
and  follow  it  until  you  come  to  a  small  knoll  or  where  there  has 
been  a  tree  turned  out  and  rotted  away;  then  as  a  fox  most  al- 
ways leaps  over  it,  set  your  trap  just  under  the  snow  on  the  oppo- 
site side,  and  as  he  jumps  over  he  is  quite  likely  to  jump  into 
one  of  your  traps  (it  is  a  good  plan  to  have  about  three). 

''Another  good  method  is  to  take  about  four  good  traps  (I 
use  Newhouse),  and  go  where  there  has  been  something  killed 
(the  slaughter  house  is  a  good  place),  and  soak  your  traps  in  the 
blood.  Then  take  a  hen  (one  that  is  dead  will  do),  and  drag 
it  along  the  trail  until  you  come  to  where  he  goes  through  some 
bushes.  Then  hang  the  hen  up  by  a  wire  around  her  head ;  set 
your  traps  under  the  snow,  or  under  the  ground,  and  cover  them 
with  leaves  or  grass  so  that  all  looks  natural.  When  the  fox 
comes  along  he  sees  the  hen;  he  lies  down  on  the  ground  about 
five  minutes  and  watches  the  hen,  then  jumps  for  her  neck,  which 
he  gets,  and  the  hunter  gets  the  fox.'' 

Trapping  the  Fox. 

From  Sherwood  Shattuck,  of  Pepperell,  Mass.,  we  have  the 
following : 

"I  find  the  senses  of  foxes  are  acute,  especially  those  of  hear- 
ing and  of  smell ;  their  limbs  are  exceedingly  pliant,  and  their  tail 
is  so  flexible  that  they  can  roll  it  around  their  nose.  They  are 
shy,  cautious,  exceedingly  cunning  and  patient. 

"This  is  the  way  I  catch  the  fox :  One  of  the  most  attractive 
objects  to  the  four-footed  midnight  marauder  is  a  well-stocked 
hen-roost,  and  its  attractiveness  may  be  turned  to  good  account 
by  turning  the  tables  on  the  fox,  mink,  skunk,  or,  indeed,  any 
animal  that  has  a  constitutional  predilection  for  poultry.  The 


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317 


following  ingenious  but  very  simple  arrangement  will  be  found 
entirely  successful  in  not  only  fully  protecting  the  chickens,  but 
also  rendering  the  capture  of  the  intruder  sure.  The  contrivance 
consists  of  two  parts,  independent  of  the  trap.  The  first  is  a 
box  without  a  lid,  and  one  of  its  ends  taken  out.  This  is  inverted 
as  seen  in  illustration,  and  a  piece  of  the  bottom  cut  away  at 
one  end,  corresponding  in  size  to  the  inside  measurement  of 
another  similar,  but  smaller,  box;  this  latter  is  also  without  lid, 
open  at  one  end  (see  illustration),  and  large  enough  to  furnish 
a  place  for  a  dead  hen.  This  smaller  box  constitutes  the  second 
part  of  the  afifair;  instead  of  a  lid  it  is  fitted  with  laths  or  slats 
across  the  width,  the  ends  of  the  slats  being  secured  to  elects 
nailed  one  on  each  side  along  inside  of  the  box.  To  make  these 
arrangements  available,  the  larger  box  is  placed  on  the  ground 
inverted,  with  its  open  end  against  and  inclosing  the  entrance 
to  the  hen-roost — the  latter  being  allowed  to  remain  invitingly 
open.  Inside  the  box,  and  just  facing  the  entrance,  a  steel  trap 
is  placed,  set  for  effective  service,  and  lightly  covered  with  buck- 
wheat shucks.  Smoke  trap  by  burning  hens'  feathers  to  prevent 
smell  of  steel,  as  foxes  have  a  keen  scent,  as  has  already  been  said. 
The  chain  of  the  trap  is  attached  firmly  to  the  ground.  A 
chicken  is  next  placed  inside  the  smaller  box,  and  this  inverted 
exactly  over  the  hole  which  has  been  made  in  the  bottom  (now 
the  top)  of  the  larger  box.  Any  enterprising  fox,  or  other  hen- 
roost thief,  passing  by  will  take  advantage  of  the  open  entrance, 
survey  with  feelings  of  unmixed  satisfaction  the  chicken  over- 
head, take  just  one  step  nearer  to  secure  his  prey,  to  find  his 
"whole  energies  enlisted  in  fruitless  endeavors  to  depart,  without 
his  anticipated  feast,  his  captivity  rendered  almost  unendurable 
by  the  tantalizing  sight  of  his  supper  'so  near  and  yet  so  far.' 
I  use  No.  3  Newhouse  traps  for  foxes." 

Trapping  the  Fox. 

How  an  Idaho  trapper  captures  the  grey  fox: 
"Find  some  trail  where  the  fox  is  most  apt  to  pass  along, 
empty  a  gallon  of  wood  ashes  out  in  a  round  pile  and  set  your 
trap  in  the  centre  of  the  pile.  The  fox  is  sure  to  step  in  the  ashes 
for  I  have  never  seen  it  to  fail.  The  only  kind  of  bait  I  ever 
use  for  trapping  fox  is  burnt  meat  skins ;  that  will  attract  their 
attention  for  a  long  distance.  The  kind  of  traps  used  for  fox 
are  the  No.  ij^  single  spring  Newhouse  trap;  if  smaller  than 
trap  is  used  don't  fasten  trap  solid,  but  fasten  to  small  stick 
or  block  of  wood,  so  when  the  fox  leaps  it  will  give  without  pul- 
ling off  his  foot/' 


318         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


Trapping  the  Fox. 

''My  favorite  dry  land  set  for  fox  is  to  find  some  stump  or 
some  opening  V  shaped  on  the  bottom,  which  I  carefully  clean 
out ;  and  into  which  I  set  my  trap.  For  bait,  I  generally  succeed 
by  nailing  a  piece  of  meat,  such  as  muskrat  or  bird  at  the  farthest 
end.  Leave  the  surroundings  in  the  most  natural  condition  and 
always  place  some  cotton  or  fleecy  material  beneath  the  pan. 

My  favorite  water  set  for  the  fox  is  to  find  some  spring, 
make  an  artificial  island  lo  to  15  inches  from  the  shore.  This 
I  sometimes  makes  as  early  as  July  or  August.     The  reason  I 


DEADFALL  FOR  WILDCAT,  LYNX,   RACCOON,  FOX  AND  WOLF. 

The  above  log  trap  is  inclosed  with  sticks  driven  into  the  ground,  with 
an  opening  of  sufficient  size  permitting  the  entrance  of  wild  cat,  lynx,  rac- 
coon, fox,  wolf,  and,  if  log  is  of  sufficient  size  and  weight,  for  bear.  Set 
figure  four  arrangement  with  care  and  place  bait  on  spindle.  For  bait  use 
meat,  honey,  and,  if  consistent,  smear  spindle  with  some  of  the  preparation 
elsewhere  noted  in  this  Guide. 

choose  a  spring  is  that  the  water  is  about  the  same  level  the  year 
round.  Trap  should  be  set  on  a  flat  stone  and  on  top  of  this 
stone  place  sod  two  or  three  inches  thick,  but  remove  sufficient 
to  hold  trap  so  that  when  the  trap  is  covered  it  is  just  even  with 
the  upper  part  of  the  sod.    Place  some  soft  material  below  the 


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319 


pan,  and  cover  trap  with  grass  which  can  be  weighted  down  with 
small  quantity  of  earth.  Springs  can  be  covered  with  a  thin  layer 
of  sod.  The  entire  island  thus  formed  should  not  be  more  than 
six  to  seven  inches  wide  and  everything  below  the  water  as  much 
as  possible  excepting  the  pan.  For  bait  I  use  piece  of  muskrat 
or  bird,  freshened  up  with  some  fish  oil  or  natural  scent  of  the 
female  of  the  fox  or  dog.  This  I  place  on  a  stick  beyond  the 
trap  so  that  the  animal  in  endeavoring  to  get  at  the  bait  places 
his  forefeet  on  the  island  where  the  trap  is  set. 

J.  C.  O'Reilly. 

Trapping  the  Fox. 

Another  good  way  to  trap  Mr.  Reynard,  especially  if  he  is 
bait  shy,  is  to  set  a  trap  near  some  tree  or  stump,  if  you  happen 
to  find  the  path  of  the  fox  and  there  is  no  tree  or  stump  in  the 
neighborhood,  drive  in  a  stake  or  a  fence  post  a  yard  or  two  from 
the  path.  Set  your  trap  14  to  16  inches  from  the  stump,  tree  or 
stake.    Prefer  to  use  two  or  three  traps. 

Now  obtain  from  the  dog  a  quantity  of  urine,  which  pour  on 
the  stake.  The  fox  being  of  the  dog  kind,  has  the  same  habits 
as  the  dog,  and  when  passing  along  will  run  up  to  the  stake,  tree 
or  stump  to  urinate,  and  of  course  becomes  a  victim.  If  a  tree, 
stump  or  stake  is  unhandy,  use  a  boulder  or  flat  stone ;  the  latter 
should  be  set  in  the  ground  edgewise.  After  you  have  succeeded 
in  capturing  one  fox,  especially  if  it  should  be  a  female,  after 
skinning,  save  the  animal's  urine,  which  you  will  find  in  the  blad- 
der ;  run  it  in  a  bottle  and  use  same  at  the  various  places  where 
traps  are  set.  E.  L.  S. 

After  you  have  satisfied  yourself  of  the  kind  of  decoy  to 
use,  take  an  auger  (J^  to  i  inch),  and  start  out  to  where  foxes 
are  known  to  run.  Ascertain  some  old  stump  that  has  been  sawed 
off,  into  which  bore  a  hole  and  fill  with  the  prepared  scent  or  de- 
coy. This  hole  is  usually  bored  in  center  of  stump.  The  fox 
will  naturally  put  his  front  feet  on  the  stump  and  endeavor  to 
procure  the  decoy  with  his  mouth  or  lick  same  with  his  tongue. 
The  steel  trap  should  be  about  a  foot  away  from  the  stump,  and 
he  will  either  spring  it  with  his  front  or  hind  feet.  It  is  a  good 
idea  to  have  numerous  sets  in  a  vicinity  of  this  kind,  and  if  a 
stump  cannot  be  found,  bore  a  hole  in  some  log  or  tree. 

M.  C.  A. 

Trapping  the  Fox. 

Many  trappers  will  laugh  at  me  when  I  tell  them  that  in 
my  experience  of  trapping,  on  more  than  one  occasion  have  I 
set  my  traps  upside  down.  They  may  look  funny,  but  it  is  true 
nevertheless. 


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Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


I  remember  distinctly  12  or  15  years  ago  the  first  time  I  had 
trouble  in  capturing  a  fox.  I  found  his  den  and  set  a  No.  3  trap 
in  the  usual  way,  only  to  find  every  little  while  the  trap  dis- 
turbed, either  by  being  many  feet  away  from  the  place  where  it 
was  set  or  turned  upside  down,  and  quite  a  number  of  times  the 
fox  watered  upon  it.  The  fox  on  that  morning  had  thrown  the 
trap  on  one  side  of  the  hole  and  evidently  had  tried  to  cover  it 
up  with  earth.  I  asked  an  old  grey-headed  trapper  what  to  do, 
and  he  told  me  to  set  the  trap  upside  down  in  the  locality  where 
I  had  set  it  previously,  and  sure  enough  the  next  morning  the 
trap  held  the  front  foot  of  a  red  fox.  Of  course  I  did  not  see 
how  he  disturbed  the  trap,  but  I  reasoned  that  he  uprooted  the 
trap  with  his  nose  and  then  pawed  it  away.  There  was  no  sign 
on  the  animal  that  he  was  captured  before.    Have  heard  other 


This  arangement  was  used  by  our  forefathers,  and  history  records  its 
use  many  hundreds  of  years  ago.  It  is  very  simple,  and  if  properly  arranged 
becomes  one  of  the  surest  methods  of  killing  small  animals  that  we  know  of. 
Now  sparingly  used. 

trappers  say  that  occasionally  they  have  the  same  trouble  with 
mink,  and  by  turning  the  traps  upside  down,  are  able  to  capture 
them.  Have  set  Newhouse  traps  over  a  hole  with  pan  down- 
wards and  more  than  once  caught  mink  that  way.  Would  re- 
commend trappers  who  have  experienced  like  trouble  to  try  this 
method. 


STONE  DEADFALL. 


Will  Hendricks. 


TRAPPING  THE  WOLF  OR  COYOTE. 


"I  will  relate  a  successful  way  to  trap  the  coyote,"  writes  Mr. 
Lothamer,  a  Canadian  trapper  residing  at  Heather  Brae. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide,  321 


''The  coyote  is  a  very  cautious  animal,  and  is  hard  to  trap, 
yet  he  can  be  caught  in  several  different  ways.  The  trap  should 
be  hid  in  a  small  pile  of  ashes  or  leaves,  and  should  be  smeared 
with  lard  or  blood.  Fasten  the  trap  to  a  small  clog  or  log,  so 
that  he  can  move  about  when  caught.  Obtain  from  the  female 
of  the  dog,  the  matrix,  in  the  season  of  coition,  and  preserve  it 
in  alcohol,  tightly  corked,  when  it  can  be  had.  Leave  a  drop  here 
and  there  around  the  trap  and  put  some  on  your  shoes  when  vis- 
iting the  traps.  Take  a  piece  of  raw  flesh  and  draw  it  in  several 
directions  from  the  trap  and  squeeze  the  blood  out  every  little 
while.  Leave  everything  as  natural  as  possible  near  and  around 
your  traps. 

''Here  is  another  method.  Find  a  place  in  the  woods  or  in 
the  brush  where  the  coyote  has  made  a  trail  and  set  your  trap 
in  it.  Then  hang  a  piece  of  meat  off  to  one  side  of  your  trap  to 
draw  his  attention  away  from  the  trap.  The  reason  why  I  hang 
the  meat  to  one  side  is  because  a  coyote  never  goes  directly  to 
the  bait,  but  circles  around  it  first,  and  in  making  the  circle  will 
naturally  follow  his  old  trail,  at  the  same  time  keeping  his  eye  on 
the  meat,  and  walks  into  your  trap.  Use  your  own  judgment 
to  advantage,  and  you  will  be  successful.  Use  Nevvhouse  traps 
No.        or  No.  2:' 

Trapping  the  Wolf  or  Coyote. 

We  quote  a  trapper,  H.  Miller,  living  at  Redding,  Cal.,  who 
wi^ites  an  article  on  the  coyote : 

The  coyote  is  a  very  shy  animal,  and  it  requires  considerable 
care  and  attention  in  setting  the  traps.  This  is  one  of  my  plans 
and  is  nearly  always  successful  if  the  coyote  is  pretty  hungry. 
I  first  find  out  about  where  he  runs ;  then  take  the  entrails  or  any 
part  of  the  sheep,  deer  or  goat  (entrails  from  hogs  will  sometimes 
do).  Select  a  place  where  there  are  a  few  brush,  near  a  trail  or 
road ;  fasten  if  you  can  the  bait  to  the  bottom  of  a  tree  or  spread- 
ing bush;  fix  a  pen  with  brush  on  both  sides  of  bait  and  joining 
the  tree  at  the  end;  must  be  old  brush,  make  no  new  work  that 
will  show  when  brush  is  in  shape.  Then  set  our  trap  about  four 
feet  from  bait  and  near  the  entrance  of  the  pen ;  cover  nicely 
and  leave  no  part  of  the  trap  in  sight.  Chain  can  be  fastened 
to  the  butt  end  of  a  large  limb  or  bush  sunk  in  the  ground  so  as 
to  admit  of  being  smoothly  covered.  Pen  should  be  about  a  fcot 
wide  at  the  entrance.  If  work  is  done  well  and  trap  rightly  S'ct, 
when  he  comes — whatever  he  is — and  is  hungry,  you  will  catch 
him.  No  need  of  smoking  traps  to  catch  such  animals;  that  is 
nonsense. 

'T  have  tried  all  plans  in  my  13  years  of  tiapping  and  can 
safely  say  that  I  never  could  see  that  smoking  or  h:mdling  with 


322 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


gloves  did  any  good,  as  the  scent  on  traps  will  go  away  of  its 
own  accord  in  a  few  days.  This  plan  is  the  best  I  have  found 
when  meat  for  bait  is  used/' 

Trapping  the  Wolf  or  Coyote. 

''In  trapping  for  wolves,"  writes  Mr.  Chamberlain,  ''take  en- 
trails of  a  hog  or  beef  to  a  place  where  you  know  wolves  fre- 
quent, and  throw  upon  an  ant-hill  or  some  mound,  and  set  steel 
traps  about  3  to  6  feet  away  on  some  other  high  elevation  if  pos- 
sible. The  wolf  will  go  around  and  around  the  bait,  sniffing  and 
gradually  reaching  closer  and  closer,  until  he  gets  caught.  At- 
tach chain  to  a  5-pound,  not  heavier  than  lo-pound  clog.'' 
Trapping  the  Wolf  or  Coyote. 

The  way  I  trap  wolves  is  to  find  where  they  hang  out.  One 
will  find  them  near  some  river,  creek  or  lake.  Horse  manure  or 
old  barn  yard  litter  will  take  away  the  scent  of  traps.  I  cover 
traps  with  manure  or  chafif.    To  attract  wolves,  I  kill  some  ani- 


PITFALL. 

Suitable  for  prairie  wolves.  Set  traps  15  to  30  inches  beyond  pit,  attach 
30-poimd  weight  to  chain  and  arrange  weight  upon  pegs  driven  into  the  sides 
of  pit.  Attractive  live  bait  is  preferable  to  dead  carcasses.  The  victim  after 
springing  trap  will  release  weight  which  with  the  animals  falls  into  pit. 

mal  and  roast  the  carcass ;  this  is  done  at  the  place  where  I  expect 
to  set  my  traps.  The  carcass  will  roast  and  smoulder  for  quite 
a  while  and  the  odor  therefrom  is  smelled  by  the  fox  or  wolf 
at  a  great  distance  and  I  am  sure  will  attract  these  animals  for 
miles.  Before  starting  the  fire,  have  your  traps  set  in  the  man- 
ure and  hide  them  in  the  usual  way.  Where  there  are  plenty  of 
wolves  I  set  from  four  to  six  No.  4^  wolf  traps  about  the  bait. 
My  reason  for  using  No.  4^2  traps  is  on  account  of  the  long  chains 
and  pronged  drag.  If  a  wolf  springs  the  trap  he  will  try  to  get 
away  and  in  the  space  of  time  will  become  tangled  up.  The  trail 
made  by  these  pronged  hooks  is  very  easy  to  follow.. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


323 


The  wolf  is  a  cunning  rascal  and  very  suspicious  when  he  de- 
tects any  artificial  arrangement.  At  the  same  time  he  is  so  in- 
quisitive that  he  will  shortly  investigate  everything  and  will  come 
to  the  same  place  right  along  for  a  period  of  weeks.  If  you  cannot 
prepare  a  roast  for  the  wolf  obtain  fish ;  these  even  if  Dadly  de- 
cayed are  better  than  if  fresh.  The  stronger  the  scent  the  greater 
the  distance  it  will  be  carried  by  the  wind.  I  never  go  to  my 
traps  on  foot,  usually  look  over  the  line  on  horseback.  The  ad- 
vantage of  placing  such  a  set  upon  some  slightly  elevated  place, 
especially  during  a  snow  storm,  is  to  be  taken  into  account.  I  pre- 
fer to  place  such  sets  close  to  cattle  trails. 

I  hope  the  brother  trapper  will  get  many  pelts  and  enrich 
his  pocketbook  by  the  bounty  which  the  state  offers. 

Chas.  H.  Zeigler. 

"In  a  level  co.untry  it  is  sometimes  more  difficult  to  set  traps 
during  the  winter  months  when  snow  is  drifting  and  the  wind 
has  sufficient  power  to  disturb  even  haystacks  as  well  as  piles 
of  manure  that  may  be  hauled  in  the  open  prairie.  In  starting 
out  to  trap  wolves,  I  pay  particular  attention  to  my  traps.  In- 
stead of  smoking  them  I  use  a  compound  made  out  of  tallow, 
spruce  and  cedar  needles.  These  I  boil  up  together  and  then  pour 
contents  into  a  fruit  jar.  When  I  have  located  place  that  the 
wolf  frequents,  I  drive  or  ride  in  the  vicinity  where  I  intend  to  set 
my  traps  and  scatter  a  few  branches  smeared  with  this  prepara- 
"tion.  My  favorite  place  is  to  set  traps  around  a  straw  or  hay 
stack.  In  a  few  days  thereafter  I  take  the  stomach  or  intes- 
tines of  some  calf,  sheep,  hog  or  beef,  and  throw  it  close  to  the 
stack.  I  now  take  two  No.  4  or  4j4  double  spring  traps  and  set 
them  12  to  14  inches  on  the  outside  of  the  bait.  These  traps 
are  set  level  with  the  ground,  and  concealed  with  earth,  rotten 
wood,  etc.  The  chains  are  securely  fastened  to  some  old  limb, 
or  loose  fencepost.  The  latter  makes  an  excellent  drag.  If  traps 
are  skillfully  set  and  concealed  and  if  there  are  any  wolves  or 
foxes  in  the  neighborhood,  you  will  get  them.  Do  not  be  dis- 
appointed if  you  are  not  successful  the  first  few  days,  as  the  fox 
and  wolf  are  both  suspicious  and  sometimes  will  loiter  in  the 
vicinity  for  hours  at  a  time  and  two  or  three  days  before  they  will 
approach  the  bait. 

The  funniest  experience  that  I  have  had  was  in  Manitoba 
along  the  Red  River,  where  two  of  the  aforementioned  sets  were 
placed  on  the  opposite  sides  of  a  haystack.  In  one  trap  I  got  a 
large  buffalo  wolf  and  in  the  other  a  stray  dog.  During  that 
same  season  and  with  the  same  three  traps,  I  caught  6  wolves, 
8  foxes  (for  one  of  these  skins  I  received  $85.00)  and  one  dog. 

J.  R.  Barton. 


324         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


Trapping  the  Wolf  or  Coyote. 

A  favorite  set  is  to  bury  part  or  all  of  some  dead  carcass  on 
an  elevated  mound  or  hill.  From  15  to  20  inches  on  each  side, 
place  one  or  more  steel  traps,  which  are  to  be  buried  and  covered 
in  the  usual  way.  Occasionally  I  place  poisoned  pellets  of  meat 
in  the  immediate  vicinity. 

Just  before  leaving  I  obtain  one  or  two  armfuls  of  straw, 
which  I  place  four  or  five  feet  away  from  the  center  of  bait, 
start  it  afire,  and  just  as  soon  as  I  am  sure  the  fire  is  all  out,  go 
away.  The  wolf  or  fox  will  come  the  same  or  next  night,  and 
if  the  set  is  a  natural  one,  he  may  go  to  the  bait  the  first  day.  If 


BEEF  HOIST  STEEL  TRAP  SET. 


This  original  and  unique  set  has  been  tried  and  proven  a  success.  Suit- 
able for  all  kinds  and  sizes  of  animals.  Weight  must  be  one-fourth  to 
one-third  heavier  than  the  proposed  victim.  When  trap  is  sprung,  animai 
pulls  trigger,  releasing  weight  which  descends  and  furnishes  the  power  to 
hoist  the  victim  in  the  trap  off  the  ground. 

not,  he  will  go  in  two  or  three  days.  The  wind  has  a  tendency 
to  distribute  the  ashes  and  by  so  doing  overcomes  any  and  all 
human  scent  that  the  trapper  may  have  left.  R.  B.  A. 

Went  Fishing  For  Wolves. 

A  Nevada  youth,  not  having  any  traps,  caught  many  wolves 
by  promiscuously  baiting  three  pronged  trolling  fish  hooks  with 
small  pieces  of  meat  attaching  them  to  ordinary  baling  wire  fas- 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


325 


tened  on  limbs  of  trees,  so  as  to  hang  four  feet  from  the  ground. 
The  wolf  in  jumping  for  the  bait  snaps  just  like  a  dog,  and  the 
prongs  very  readily  find  themselves  imbedded  in  his  upper  and 
lower  jaws. 

Trapping  the  Wolf  or  Coyote. 

Coyotes,  unlike  the  wolf,  are  not  very  great  travelers.  Gene- 
rally unless  driven  out,  they  remain  in  the  vicinity  where  they 
were  raised,  and  on  their  range,  are  as  familiar  as  a  clerk  in  a 
store.  They  travel  on  trails,  wherever  they  lead,  in  the  direc- 
tion they  are  traveling.  It  is  as  natural  for  them  to  travel  on  a 
trail  as  it  is  for  a  cow  or  horse,  because  their  feet  get  sore  from 
travelling  over  rough  ground  covered  with  rocks. 

Find  a  cow  trail  where  you  see  coyote  tracks  quite  often.  Lo- 
cate a  small  bush  about  2  to  15  feet  from  the  trail.  Now  take 
three  traps.  No.  3  or  4  Newhouse  or  H.  &  N.  Always  use  large 
traps,  for  there  is  no  telling  what  kind  of  an  animal  is  going  to 
get  caught  accidentally.  Have  a  grapple  on  each  trap.  Now  put 
a  trap  on  3  sides  of  the  bush.  Put  the  grapple  of  each  trap  in 
the  center  of  the  bush  and  cover  with  leaves.  Bury  each  trap 
down  level  with  the  ground.  Put  2  or  3  grass  stems  over  the 
jaws,  then  put  a  piece  of  paper  over  the  jaws,  and  cover  lightly 
with  fine,  dry  dirt.  Treat  each  trap  this  way.  Everything  should 
]ook  so  natural  that  you,  yourself,  cannot  see  the  slightest  altera- 
tion. Now  put  some  cracklings  in  the  center  of  the  bush  and 
over  all  sprinkle  fish  oil,  especially  on  top  of  the  bush  so  the  wind 
can  carry  the  smell  a  long  ways.  A  coyote  can  smell  this  set  if 
the  wind  is  blowing  in  his  direction,  for  one-half  mile  and  will 
then  come  straight  for  it. 

Always  use  clean  buckskin  gloves  when  handling  your  traps. 
Traps  for  coyotes  should  be  set  horse-back.  Take  along  a  piece 
of  hide  large  enough  to  stand  on.  Tie  a  6-foot  rope  on  it, 
throw  this  on  the  ground,  step  off  and  set  your  traps.  When 
through,  get  on  your  horse,  and  pull  the  hide  up  with  the  rope. 
If  you  are  trapping  in  a  country  where  there  are  deer  or  ante- 
lope, use  their  hides  in  place  of  a  beef  hide.  This  leaves  no 
human  scent  on  the  ground  and  fools  the  smartest  coyote. 

The  way  I  make  my  fish  oil  is  to  cut  up  fish  and  put  them  in 
a  bottle,  cork  up  and  let  stand  in  the  sun  for  two  weeks.  It  is 
then  ready  for  use. 

This  is  the  best  set  I  have  ever  used  and  is  used  by  the  best 
and  most  successful  trapper  in  Wyoming,  known  as  Rattle- 
Snake  Jack.  I  have  taken  3  coyotes  at  one  set,  in  one  night.  If 
this  set  is  used  in  the  vicinity  of  a  dead  horse  or  cow,  a  person  is 
sure  of  success  the  first  night.  Wm.  Weibel, 

La  Porte,  Colo. 


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Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


Trapping  the  Wolf  or  Coyote. 

Will  herein  give  you  my  experience  and  method  in  trapping 
the  wily  coyote  and  grey  wolf,  which  are  very  troublesome  to 
the  stockmen  of  the  country,  or  other  stock-raising  countries. 
The  bounties  paid  for  these  friendless  animals  by  state,  county, 
and  stockmen,  pay  the  trappers  very  well  for  pursuing  them  both 
winter  and  summer.  The  county  bounty,  is  $6.00,  state,  $3.00 
and  the  bounties  paid  by  stockmen  in  different  parts  of  the  state 
vary  from  $5.00  to  $20.00  on  a  single  wolf ;  so  between  the  bounty 
and  his  skin,  it  is  worth  while  looking  after  Mr.  Wolf.  But  let 
me  tell  you,  boys,  the  trapper  has  to  deal  with  an  animal  of  al- 
most human  intelligence  and  sometimes  it  seems  to  be  more  so 
than  that  of  man.  I  have,  before  now,  set  my  traps  for  wolf 
and  on  going  back  afterwards  have  found  the  trap  taken  up  and 
thrown  out  of  concealed  place,  not  even  being  sprung. 


DEADFALL. 

This  is  a  very  simple  arrangement  not  much  used  of  late  years,  but 
formerly  used  by  frontiersmen  in  the  capture  of  wolves,  lynx,  wild  cats  anil 
other  large  animals,  even  the  black  bear.  Bait  should  be  securely  fastened 
to  the  spindle  or  on  the  ground  within  the  enclosure. 

For  trapping  the  wolf,  always  use  the  Newhouse  No.  4  beaver 
trap.  Instead  of  using  a  drag,  I  use  an  iron  pin,  2  feet  long, 
driven  into  the  ground  out  of  sight.  This  is  not  so  heavy  to 
pack  and  does  just  as  well. 

First,  have  your  traps  smoked  over  cedar  boughs  or  feathers 
of  any  kind.  This  kills  the  odor  of  iron.  When  setting  traps, 
always  dig  out  a  hole  in  the  ground  about  two  and  one-half 
inches  deep  to  fit  a  trap,  with  springs  a  little  bit  turned  to  let  jaws 
down  even.  Now  place  your  trap  and  cover  with  a  piece  of 
paper  large  enough  to  cover  jaws  of  trap  and  cover  all  with 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


327 


fine,  dry  dirt  one  inch  deep.  Also  cover  chain  and  pin.  See  that  the 
latter  is  just  even  with  the  ground.  The  idea  in  using  paper  is 
to  prevent  dirt  getting  under  the  pan  of  the  trap,  then  when  any 
animal  steps  on  the  pan,  your  trap  is  sure  to  spring.  If  the  dirt 
taken  out  of  the  hole  is  too  lumpy,  have  a  sack  or  something 
to  carry  the  lumps  away,  and  bring  good  dirt.  Leave  everything 
looking  just  as  it  did  before  you  came.  When  covering  traps, 
never  use  your  bare  hand,  always  have  on  mittens  or  gloves  and 
brush  nway  your  track,  or  you  will  get  no  wolf. 

This,  in  my  experience,  is  the  best  method  for  catching  the 
foxy  old  wolf.  When  looking  after  traps,  keep  from  lo  to  15 
rods  away,  unless  you  have  something  in  your  trap,  or  it  is 
sprung. 

After  catching  a  wolf,  always  clean  and  change  your  traps, 
because  you  will  never  catch  two  wolves  in  one  place  in  this 
country  where  there  are  so  many  cattle.  I  set  my  traps  in  trails 
where  cattle  go  and  come  from  water.  I  set  them  at  cross  trails 
or  in  forks  of  trails.  This  makes  lots  of  work  as  the  cattle  often 
spring  your  traps.  Where  there  are  lots  of  rabbits,  cattle  and 
stuff  for  wolves  to  eat,  no  bait  is  necessary  as  this  would  only 
arouse  the  wolf's  suspicion  and  cause  him  to  walk  away. 

Another  good  way  where  bait  is  to  be  used:  Find  a  place 
where  there  are  a  few  mounds.  Now,  conceal  your  trap  as 
before  stated  on  each  mound  and  throw  your  bait  between 
mounds.  He  is  certain  to  get  upon  these  mounds  to  look  around 
and  you  will  get  him,  or  the  trap  will. 

When  you  think  a  snow  storm  is  near  at  hand,  don't  cover 
the  traps  deep,  as  the  snow  makes  a  good  covering  with  just  a 
little  dirt  under  it. 

I  think  this  method  of  concealing  the  traps  will  also  answer 
for  taking  other  land  animals.  But  the  trapper  will  have  to  use 
his  own  judgment  in  covering  the  traps,  with  regard  to  the  size 
of  the  animal  he  expects  to  capture,  as  a  small  animal  would 
not  spring  a  trap  with  so  much  dirt  on  it.  I  have  caught  skunks 
and  badgers  in  this  manner. 

I  never  use  the  chains  that  come  with  the  traps,  as  they  will 
not  hold  a  wolf  in  cold  weather.  I  remove  same  and  make  chains 
from  chain  tugs,  and  have  same  a  foot  long. 

Robert  Roberts^ 
Harding  Grove,  S.  D. 

Trapping  the  Wolf  or  Coyote. 

The  wolf  is  the  most  cunning  animal  with  which  the  trapper 
has  to  deal  and  to  trap  him  successfully  takes  both  care  and 
patience,  but  with  my  method,  I  have  good  success. 


328 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


First,  if  the  traps  are  rusty  or  stained,  boil  them  in  willow 
bark  and  water.  This  will  remove  any  odor,  rust  or  blood.  When 
handling,  use  buckskin  gloves.  Set  the  traps  where  there  are 
isigns  of  wolves. 

I  use  No.  4  Newhouse  traps,  and  for  scent  I  use, 
I    oz.  Anise  Oil. 
^2  oz.  Skunk  Scent. 
I    oz.  Essence  of  the  Wolf. 
Mix  and  apply  to  pan  and  spring  of  traps. 
Now,  cover  the  trap  first,  by  placing  a  paper  over  the  pan  and 
Jaws,  then  cover  with  dirt  enough  to  remove  all  traces  of  the  trap 
and  chain. 

For  bait,  I  use  squirrel,  prairie  dog,  rabbit,  or  birds,  and  alive 
when  possible.  To  fasten  the  bait,  bury  a  stake  in  the  ground 
and  fasten  the  bait  to  it  by  means  of  a  short  chain  attached  by 
one  end  to  the  stake  and  wire  the  other  end  to  the  leg  of  the  bait. 


DEAD  FALL  TRAP. 


Now,  set  a  trap  on  each  side  of  the  bait,  and  about  six  feet 
from  it,  and  when  the  wolf  sees  that  the  bait  is  fast,  he  will  begin 
to  sniff  and  walk  in  a  circle  around  it  and  so  get  caught. 

I  have  seldom  known  this  to  fail  when  the  wolf  came  near 
enough  to  see  the  bait. 

F.  Abbot^ 

Ft.  Pierre,  S.  D. 
Trapping  the  Wolf  or  Coyote. 

In  such  states  where  a  good  bounty  is  offered  it  is  more 
(./ofitable  to  capture  young  wolves  for  the  reason  that  they  are 
more  plentiful  and  easier  captured.  When  they  are  three  or 
four  months  old  they  can  be  seen  going  away  quite  a  distance 
from  their  abode.  Then  is  the  time  to  bring  some  dead  carcass 
in  the  vicinity  and  to  place  No.  2,  No.  3  or  No.  3^  traps 
thereabouts.  Nine  times  out  of  ten  the  mother  will  be  suspicious, 
but  she  cannot  prevent  the  cubs  from  nearing  the  bait,  due  to 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  329 


their  over-zealous  desire  to  satisfy  their  carnivorous  appetites. 
The  cubs,  as  they  become  captured,  will  of  course  make  a  big 
disturbance,  and  the  mother  will  approach  them  timidly.  Some- 
times will  carry  them  away,  trap  and  all.  On  one  occasion  four 
cubs  and  three  full  grown  wolves  were  captured  at  one  setting, 
presumably  the  larger  ones  went  to  the  assistance  of  the  cubs 
or  probably  for  pure  deviltry.  At  other  times,  notwithstanding 
the  sufifering  of  those  captured,  others  will  come  and  devour 
parts  or  all  of  the  bait. 

N.  C.  A. 

Trapping  the  Wolf  or  Coyote. 

The  wolf  is  probably  the  most  cunning  animal  of  the  dog 
family.  If  he  was  as  easily  captured  and  killed  as  is  the  bufifalo 
he  would  now  be  extinct  a  hundred  times.  It  is  a  well-known 
fact  that  a  wolf  is  not  as  cunning  in  a  new  country  as  he  is  in 
an  old  settled  community,  and  he  does  not  feel  out  of  place  to 
travel  in  good  society  in  an  old  settlement.  What  methods  are 
good  in  one  place  may  not  be  worth  the  paper  written  on  in 
another. 

I  was  fortunate  enough  to  catch  one  of  the  slyest  wolves  that 
ever  lived  in  southern  Minnesota.  He  was  known  for  years  as 
the  ''three  legged  wolf"  and  seemingly  had  had  an  encounter 
with  a  double  spring  trap  years  ago.  Since  then  he  baffled 
everything  in  the  trap  line  and  no  one  in  the  vicinity  was  able 
to  bring  him  to  bait.  There  was  no  use  to  set  traps  around  a 
dead  critter;  for  such,  it  was  better  to  have  kept  the  traps  at 
home  as  it  would  have  saved  many  the  worry  and  trouble  of  look- 
ing after  them.  I  took  the  bones  of  an  old  carcass  and  hauled 
them  out  in  the  open  and  left  them  there  for  some  time.  Mr. 
Wolf  came  and  smelled  round  the  bones  for  two  or  three  days 
and  then  watered  upon  them.  Probably  the  wolf  had  no  idea 
that  a  man  would  be  so  foolish  as  to  expect  him  to  eat  dry 
bones,  or  that  one  would  place  traps  thereabouts;  but  neverthe- 
less I  got  him. 

To  set  your  traps  when  going  into  a  wolf  country,  drive  if 
possible;  tie  a  big  piece  of  meat  (lung  or  liver  is  good)  behind 
your  wagon  and  drag  it  along.  Smear  the  drag  with  three  parts 
of  asafoetida,  beeswax  one  part,  and  thirty  drops  of  anise  oil  to 
one  pint  of  mixture.  If  you  get  off  the  wagon  smear  your  soles 
with  this  preparation,  also  your  gloves.  I  usually  take  along  a  pail 
of  blood  which  I  sprinkle  in  the  immediate  vicinity  in  places  where 
I  set  my  traps.  I  also  dip  the  traps  in  the  pail  before  setting  them. 
Traps  should  be  set  in  some  cattle  trail  near  some  bush,  and  if 
possible  at  some  intersection  of  another  trail  or  road.  Traps 
should  be  covered  with  leaves  and  grass  and  make  the  setting 


330         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


look  quite  natural  with  the  surroundings.  Occasionally  I  cover 
my  traps  with  rabbit  fur.  At  other  times  when  the  weather  is 
real  cold,  I  dip  the  traps  in  water  and  roll  them  in  loose  feathers 
or  rabbit  fur,  which  of  course  becomes  immediately  attached  to 
the  trap.  If  the  weather  continues  cold,  set  this  trap  in  the  trail 
without  any  additional  covering.  The  wolf  will  come  along, 
and  ninety-nine  times  out  of  a  hundred,  paws  at  it. 

Young  cubs  are  easily  caught.  Place  traps  around  their 
feeding  place  and  if  you  cannot  locate  the  feeding  place,  make 
one  by  bringing  some  dead  carcass  there.  The  cubs  are  not  very 
shrewd  and  in  their  over-zealous  desire  to  satisfy  their  craving 
appetite,  they  near  the  bait  and  of  course  become  a  victim. 

Andrew  Davidson, 

Bathgate,  S.  D. 
Trapping  the  Wolf  or  Coyote. 

A  wolf  is  the  most  cautious  and  keen  animal  I  ever  tried  to 
trap.  A  person  has  to  go  some  in  order  to  fool  him.  The  only 
successful  way  to  trap  him  is  to  use  a  blind  set  at  a  dead  horse 
or  cow,  for  he  will  not  go  near  it  as  long  as  there  are  any  live 
cattle  on  the  range.  A  wolf  travels  in  a  large  circle  and  manages 
to  get  around  this  circle  once  every  four  or  five  days.  They 
generally,  unless  very  hungry,  lay  around  in  cliffs  and  washouts 
in  th'e  daytime  and  when  night  comes,  come  out  of  their  dens 
and  prowl  about  all  night  in  search  of  prey. 

Find  a  place  where  you  see  his  tracks  in  a  cow  trail  or  old 
deserted  road.  Watch  the  place  where  you  have  seen  his  tracks 
and  see  if  they  occur  there  more  than  once.  If  they  do,  you  have 
found  a  place  v/here  he  travels  regularly.  Now  take  five  No.  4 
Newhouse  or  Hawley  &  Norton  traps,  with  an  eight-inch  chain 
and  a  good  swivel,  and  a  twelve  or  fifteen-inch  pin  if  the  ground 
is  frozen,  and  if  not  a  twenty-inch  pin  is  none  too  long.  Use 
one  pin  for  each  trap.  Take  a  calf,  antelope,  or  deer  hide,  tie 
a  six-foot  rope  to  it.  Do  not  touch  the  hide  or  traps  with  bare 
hands,  but  use  very  clean  buckskin  gloves.  They  will  leave  no 
human  scent  on  traps.  Now  take  your  traps  and  hide  and  get 
on  a  horse  and  go  where  the  set  is  to  be  made.  When  the  place 
is  reached,  throw  the  hide  down  on  the  ground,  step  off  on  the 
hide.  You  should  also  have  a  small  piece  of  hide,  one  foot 
square,  so  you  can  stand  on  it  with  one  foot  and  move  the  other 
hide  to  a  convenient  spot.  Under  no  conditions  get  off  the 
hide,  as  you  will  then  leave  a  scent.  Take  the  traps  and  drive 
the  stake  of  each  trap  so  that  when  the  traps  are  set  they  will 
cover  about  thirteen  feet  of  the  trail.  The  stakes  should  be 
driven  so  deep  that  they  will  not  show.  The  traps  must  all  be 
buried  level  with  the  ground.    Put  two  or  three  straws  over 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  331 


the  jaws,  then  a  piece  of  paper.  Now  cover  them  with  fine  dirt. 
Cover  enough  so  the  paper  will  not  show.  When  you  are  through 
take  fine  dirt  and  throw  it  up  in  the  air  so  it  will  light  on  the 
covered  traps.  Make  everything  so  natural  that  it  looks  no  dif- 
ferent where  the  traps  are  than  it  does  fifteen  feet  away  from  the 
traps  in  the  trail. 

Use  no  scent.  Experience  has  taught  me  not  to,  as  it  will 
make  him  suspicious  and  he  will  walk  around  your  traps  and 
your  work  is  all  for  nothing. 

When  all  is  ready,  get  on  your  horse  and  pull  the  hide  up. 
Now  the  next  time  he  walks  along  you  have  got  him  for  it  is 
impossible  for  him  to  walk  over  this  set  without  stepping  in  one 
or  more  traps.  This  is  the  only  successful  set  I  have  ever  used 
or  have  seen  used  and  works  when  all  others  fail. 

Wm.  Weibel^ 

La  Porte,  Colo. 


mm 

w 


332 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


HOW  THE  BEAR  IS  HUNTED  OR  TRAPPED. 

''A  Wisconsin  lumberman  relates  an  interesting  story  of  the 
capture  of  a  three-year-old  black  bear  without  gun  or  trap, 
and  without  previous  preparation  for  the  capture  of  bruin. 

The  cabin  that  this  bear  visited  during  his  nocturnal  prowls 
was  located  in  dense  forest,  near  a  stream,  inhabited  by  woods- 
men. Being  winter,  the  ground  was  covered  with  snow  and  the 
night  of  the  capture  or  detention  of  the  thief  with  his  plunder, 
was  clear  and  cold. 

The  men  were  accustomed  to  see  game  and  carnivorous  ani- 
mals not  only  in  the  woods,  but  about  the  cabin,  picking  up  scraps 


LOG  PEN  TRAP. 

The  old-fashioned  log  pen  trap  is  still  used  by  hunters  and  trappers,  but 
owing  to  the  large  amount  of  labor  required  in  its  construction  only  those 
trappers  that  live  far  in  the  interior,  chiefly  in  Canada,  Alaska  and  in 
Siberia,   construct  them. 

of  food  that  were  thrown  out  from  day  to  day.  A  small  empty 
pork  barrel  was  rolled  out  during  the  day,  and  no  one  dreamed 
that  this  barrel  with  its  many  protruding  nails  would  make  the 
best  kind  of  a  bear  trap.  The  bear,  in  seeking  food,  placed  his 
head  and  neck  far  into  the  barrel,  and  being  unable  to  get  the 
barrel  off  by  shaking,  rolling  and  tearing  through  the  dense 
bushes,  knocking  against  trees,  was  obliged  through  loss  of 
blood  and  exhaustion  to  give  way  to  the  inevitable.  When  the 
body  was  found  two  or  three  days  thereafter  it  was  frozen  stiff. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


333 


and  it  was  necessary  to  break  the  barrel  to  remove  it  from  the 
animal.  The  barrel  being  rather  small  and  with  its  many  nails 
did  the  work.  The  bear  roaming  about  with  such  a  mask  must 
have  terrorized  all  animals  in  the  community. 

Many  bears  are  annually  dispatched  by  Minnesota,  Wisconsin, 
Michigan  and  Canadian  woodsmen  by  the  use  of  an  ax,  and,  as 
a  matter  of  fact,  these  men  much  prefer  to  meet  a  full-grown 
bear,  either  in  the  woods  or  on  denuded  land  with  an  ax  instead 
of  a  Winchester  rifle. 

While  this  is  true  with  bears,  it  is  not  so  with  lynx,  wild  cat 
or  other  members  of  the  cat  family,  who  pounce  upon  the  victim 
from  some  lofty  place  (many  times  unknown)  and  in  the  hunter's 
unpreparedness  a  hunting  knife  is  about  the  only  weapon  in 
close  quarters,  unless  a  test  of  brute  strength  becomes  apparently 
necessary. 

How  the  Bear  is  Hunted  or  Trapped. 

Bears  are  probably  as  much  hunted  as  trapped,  in  fact,  think 
more  are  captured  with  the  rifle  than  by  steel  traps.  There  is 
probably  nothing  better  than  live,  noisy,  squealing  bait  to  attract 
a  bear.  Personally  I  think  a  small  pig  would  make  a  dandy  bait, 
but  up  here  in  Canada  the  closest  one  comes  to  a  pig  is  to  get 
some  eastern  bacon,  and  this  is  a  better  bait  for  the  trapper  than 
for  bruin. 

If  one  owns  one  or  more  No.  5  or  No.  6  Newhouse  bear  traps, 
he  should  proceed  to  make  a  V  or  U  enclosure ;  either  of  these  can 
be  made  out  of  three  or  four-inch  stakes  about  five  feet  long : 
drive  sharpened  end  into  the  ground  about  two  inches  apart.  The 
opening  should  not  exceed  three  feet  for  large  bears  and  two 
and  one-half  feet  for  smaller  ones.  Set  trap  at  entrance,  and 
cover  in  the  usual  way.  Bait  should  be  put  well  within  the 
enclosure,  usually  in  the  narrowest  part.  A  little  anise  oil  will 
not  hurt.  Whether  the  peculiar,  or  the  strange  odor,  is  the 
attraction,  I  cannot  say,  but  know  from  experience  that  the  anise 
oil  does  the  work.  Log  pens  with  drop-doors  are  also  being  used 
in  some  parts  of  Canada,  but  up  here  bears  are  not  very  plentiful, 
not  worth  the  time  to  build  such  strong  dens. 

A  very  good  yet  peculiar  trap  arrangement  that  I  saw  used 
by  a  friend  of  mine  trapping  in  the  Blue  Mountains  in  British 
Columbia,  and  useful  not  only  for  bears,  but  for  other  large  game, 
was  a  pit  with  a  trap  door.  The  pit  was  about  six  by  seven  feet 
square  and  five  and  one-half  to  six  feet  deep.  The  dirt  was  held 
in  place  by  long  stakes  driven  into  the  ground.  The  top  was 
covered  all  up;  in  the  center  he  had  arranged  a  trap  door,  about 
five  feet  square,  hinges  on  the  inner  side.  The  catch  was  arranged 
to  the  bait,  also  if  a  lever  were  stepped  upon,  door  would  drop 


334         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 

and  with  it  the  victim.  This  pit  was  in  the  woods  adjoining  a 
spring  where  animals  came  to  water.  It  was  level  with  the 
ground  and  the  first  time  that  he  took  me  there,  I  would  readily 
have  walked  into  the  trap  had  he  not  pulled  me  back,  so  well  was 
it  arranged  by  him,  that  no  one  could  perceive  the  arrangement. 
This  was  in  the  summer  time,  and  while  there  one  morning,  an 
innocent  deer  was  taken  out.  He  claimed  to  have  caught  five 
bears  the  preceding  season. 


BEAR  PEN. 

Steel  trap  is  to  be  set  just  within  entrance.  For  a  set  gun  arrangement 
bore  a  hole  slantingly  into  trunk  of  tree  and  arrange  trigger  with  a  string  to 
bait  or  some  artificial  treadle. 


In  skinning  a  bear,  I  always  take  particular  pains  not  to  cut 
the  skin  and  to  leave  everything  including  ears,  nose,  eyes  and 
feet  with  claws  complete,  attached  to  hide.  One  thing  I  do, 
which  perhaps  other  trappers  do  not,  is  to  ship  the  skull  of  the 
bear  along  with  the  skin.  The  buyer  will  pay  a  little  more  for  the 
hide,  as  he  may  have  some  customer  who  will  want  to  make  it  into 
a  rug  and  the  natural  skull  is  preferred  over  an  artificial  one, 
which  I  understand  is  made  out  of  plaster  paris. 

A.  R.  Edwards. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  335 


TRAPPING  THE  RACCOON. 

Southern  methods  as  used  by  R.  W.  Riggs  in  the  swamps 
of  Louisiana — The  bait  used  and  the  way  to  set  traps : 

The  bait :  The  castor  sacs  of  a  beaver  put  into  a  httle  alcohol 
to  keep  it.  A  little  of  this  put  on  a  stick  six  inches  high  and 
placed  so  that  he  will  have  to  go  over  the  trap  to  get  it,  is  a  sure 
coon  exterminator.  Next  to  that,  something  good  to  eat — fish, 
squirrel,  persimmons  and  corn  are  my  favorites,  the  first  two 
preferred.  In  January  and  a  part  of  February,  I  set  many  traps 
on  logs.  I  look  for  old  logs ;  cut  in  a  place  for  my  traps  and  cover 
with  whatever  is  on  the  log.  Then  place  two  round  sticks  about 
one  inch  thick  on  each  side  of  the  trap.  On  logs  I  use  the  2j4 
Oneida  Jump  trap,  in  most  other  places  the  No.  2  Newhouse.  I 
make  mostly  water  sets  and  think  them  the  best  in  this  section.  I 
set  where  anything  forces  the  coon  to  take  to  the  water,  at  the  end 
of  a  log,  behind  a  tree,  by  steep  banks  and  like  places.  But  my 
best  set  is  at  the  clay  roots  of  a  tree  that  has  blown  down  out  in 
the  water.  I  fasten  all  of  my  traps  to  a  good-sized  stake,  driven 
into  the  ground  at  quite  an  angle.  My  stakes  are  two  feet  out 
of  the  water.  I  put  mud  on  them  to  make  them  look  old.  To 
fasten  the  traps  I  slip  the  chain  through  the  ring  and  put  the  loop 
over  my  stake.  Set  the  trap  between  the  stake  and  the  bank  in 
about  two  inches  of  water  if  possible.  Cover  well  and  put  bait  on 
stick  eighteen  inches  above  trap.  Set  around  clay  roots  and  you 
will  get  the  coon. 

Trapping  the  Raccoon. 

''To  catch  Mr.  Raccoon,''  writes  Mr.  J.  Hight,  of  Samoth, 
111.,  ''one  of  the  surest  and  best  ways  is  to  hunt  at  night  with 
dogs,  a  gun,  and  if  the  night  is  dark,  a  lantern  is  needed.  The 
success  and  profit  in  hunting  with  dog  and  gun  lies  in  the  fact 
that  several  will  be  put  upon  the  same  tree.  I  have  known  as 
many  as  seven  to  be  found  up  an  oak  eating  acorns  before  the 
hard  frosts  came.  When  up  a  tree,  if  the  night  is  dark  hold  the 
lantern  above  your  head  and  imitate  the  sound  of  a  fighting  coon 
or  one  worried  by  dogs,  by  putting  the  forefinger  in  the  mouth 
and  squealing.  Zip  will  look  down  in  the  direction  of  the  noise 
and  his  eyes  will  shine  like  balls  of  fire ;  then  with  a  shotgun  he 
can  be  brought  down.  I  have  made  them  jump  out  of  the  tree 
with  finger  in  mouth  where  they  were  easily  caught  by  the  dogs. 
If  the  moon  is  bright  you  do  not  need  a  lantern,  but  you  can 
"Moon"  Mr.  Rack  by  placing  yourself  so  that  the  coon  is  between 
you  and  the  moon.    I  have  shot  them  on  a  full  moon  with  a  rifle. 

"In  trapping,  I  use  the  Newhouse  No.  ij4  trap  and  select 
a  swamp  or  slough  if  I  see  any  sign  there.    Place  the  trap 


336         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


under  water  three  or  four  inches  from  the  edge  and  secure  it 
by  a  stake  driven  through  the  ring  in  the  chain  or  drive  the 
wedge  into  something  the  coon  cannot  drag.  I  bait  by  dropping 
a  few  grains  of  white  corn  in  and  around  the  trap,  or  by  placing 
a  small  piece  of  white  china  on  the  trigger  plate.  This  latter 
seems  to  have  a  fatal  fascination  for  Mr.  Zip,  as  it  seems  he  will 
investigate  every  one  he  sees.  If  there  are  logs  in  the  swamp,  I 
look  for  logs  they  travel  on,  which  is  indicated  by  their  excre- 
ment, being  voided  on  certain  logs  in  crossing.  If  I  set  on  a  log 
above  water,  I  chip  out  a  place  large  enough  to  hold  the  set 
trap.  I  put  in  the  bottom  of  this  under  the  trap  a  piece  of  chicken 
or  bread  soaked  in  syrup  or  fish,  if  I  can  get  it.  I  sometimes 
use  the  sexual  member  of  the  female,  also  asafoetida.  All  these 
are  good  baits,  and  by  using  different  baits  on  different  traps. 


The  captured  raccoon  in  above  illustration  tells  the  story.  The  bait 
is  placed  within  the  log.  It  is  best  to  leave  both  ends  open,  permitting  the 
animal  to  see  through.  This  arrangement  is  also  suitable  for  mink,  marten, 
fox  and  fisher. 

you  can  learn  a  great  deal  of  Ringtail's  habits.  The  best  place 
I  ever  set  a  trap  is  on  a  log,  some  part  of  which  goes  down  into 
the  water.  When  he  comes  to  the  water  he  is  sure  to  feel  for  the 
depth;  there  put  your  trap,  log  chipped  as  above,  and  you  will 
get  the  coon.  The  coon  is  a  Benjamite,  that  is,  he  is  left-handed. 
Seventy-five  per  cent  of  all  I  or  my  companions  ever  caught  were 
caught  by  the  left  forefoot. 

''Another  good  way  to  catch  Zip  is  with  the  'deadfall.'  Find, 
as  before,  the  logs  they  cross  the  water  on,  and  lay  a  pole  four 
or  six  inches  in  diameter  across  a  log,  fastened  at  the  other  end 
between  two  stakes  withed  or  nailed  together  at  the  proper  height. 


HOLLOW  LOG  DEADFALL. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


337 


To  make  level,  chip  a  flat  place  on  the  end  across  the  log  for  the 
upright  trigger  to  stand  on,  fasten  a  string  to  the  rear  end  of  the 
'fair  pole,  let  it  be  secured  to  the  upright  trigger,  being  drawn 
tight  enough  that  a  slight  push  on  the  string  will  throw  the  trap. 
Use  triggers  similar  to  the  figure  4  triggers,  the  string  being 
the  long  trigger.  Or  I  sometimes  use  a  small  switch  about  three 
feet  long  for  a  long  trigger.  The  poles  must  be  weighed  by 
crossing  poles  above  the  log,  which  will  compel  cooney  to  go 
between  the  poles,  push  the  string  and  die.  Deadfalls  cost  no 
money,  and  there  will  be  no  gnawing  the  foot  off  or  pulling  out 
and  g-etting  away. 

"Another  simple  device  used  in  the  swamps  of  Illinois  is 
the  two-inch  auger  hole,  bored  three  inches  deep  with  four  horse- 
shoe nails,  driven  slanting  so  that  one-quarter  of  an  inch  of  the 
points  will  be  in  the  hole ;  put  sugar,  frog,  fish  or  broken  china 
in  the  hole,  and  when  coon  tries  to  withdraw  his  foot  he  is  caught. 

"One  other  thing  I  foreot  to  mention  in  the  beginning  of 
this  article,  is  in  hunting  with  dogs,  if  I  cannot  'shine'  his  eyes, 
I  build  two  or  three  bonfires  under  the  tree,  which  will  make  it 
so  light  that  the  whole  body  of  the  coon  can  be  seen,  and  shot. 
This  is  better  than  cutting  timber  and  paying  fines.  This  has 
been  my  experience.'' 

Trapping  the  Raccoon. 

Mr.  Chamberlain,  a  South  Dakota  trapper,  writes  "that  in 
trapping  raccoons,  he  always  sets  traps  at  foot  of  a  tree,  and 
securely  nails  a  bird  or  rabbit  about  two  and  one-half  feet  above 
the  trap  on  the  tree,  so  that  the  raccoon  has  to  get  upon  his  hind 
legs  to  get  the  bait.  By  the  animal  tramping  about  he  will  get 
into  the  steel  trap.  I  use  a  clog  of  about  three  to  five  pounds, 
unless  you  can  arrange  to  fasten  trap  to  limb  of  tree,  so  that  when 
trap  is  sprung  it  will  lift  the  victim  up  in  the  air." 

Trapping  Raccoons  and  Stretching. 

I  herewith  give  you  my  method  of  trapping  the  raccoon  and 
stretching  the  skin:  First  go  along  the  sloughs  and  look  for 
their  tracks  and  set  your  traps  in  the  edge  of  the  water;  cover 
them  up  with  a  little  thin  mud.  Drive  a  stake  a  little  distance 
back  of  your  trap  on  top  of  which  place  a  small  piece  of  honey, 
and  I  assure  you  if  you  have  a  trap  strong  enough  to  hold  him, 
he  will  be  there  when  you  go  back. 

Now  for  the  skinning  and  stretching:  First  lay  the  coon  on 
his  back.  Rip  across  back  part  of  hind  legs  from  one  end  to 
the  other:  then  across  from  one  fore-paw  to  the  other:  then  rip 
straight  through  center  of  belly  to  chin  and  take  off  hide.  Lav 
the  hide  on  a  table  and  stretch  it  both  ways  with  your  hands,  until 


338         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


you  get  it  a  little  longer  than  it  is  wide.  Straighten  out  legs, 
then  cut  off  hind  legs  even  with  the  hide ;  sew  up  the  upper  edges 
of  fore-leg  along  side  of  the  skin  that  comes  off  the  lower  jaw. 

Cut  sticks  about  one  foot  longer  than  the  hide;  take  darning 
needle  (large  size  best)  and  common  wrapping  twine  and  sew  in 
the  same  as  a  woman  sews  a  quilt  in  the  frames.  Take  dry  sticks 
(about  size  of  little  finger) — dead  hedge  sprouts  are  good  as  they 
are  stiff.  Trim  off  thorns ;  when  the  side  sticks  are  sewed  in 
well,  which  must  be  stitched  about  one  inch  apart,  cut  your  end 
sticks  with  a  shaped  notch  in  each  end  so  they  will  not  slip 
out.  Cut  long  enough  so  as  to  be  fairly  tight,  but  not  tight 
enough  to  make  the  hide  wider  than  it  is  long.  Place  lower  one 
just  below  the  end  of  the  hide,  sew  in  same  as  side  sticks ;  place 
top  stick  in  just  above  and  across  the  ears;  sew  hide  to  stick 


from  outside  toward  center  until  you  reach  the  neck  which  sew  on 
each  side  alike.  Now,  put  on  the  stretcher  sticks,  one  on  each 
side  running  lengthwise  the  hide.  Split  a  hole  in  end  of  nose 
and  hang  up.  Take  a  coarse  comb  and  comb  the  hair  down  nice 
and  straight,  taking  out  all  burrs,  mud,  etc.  Put  all  sticks  in 
on  the  flesh  side  of  the  hide. 

Ira  Braden^ 
Beardstown,  111. 

Trapping  the  Raccoon. 

An  Ohio  trapper  gives  his  method  of  capturing  raccoon  in  the 
following  two  paragraphs :  The  raccoon  is  not  a  hard  animal  to 
trap.  If  I  have  occasion  to  believe  that  a  raccoon  is  in  a  given 
vicinity,  I  pass  along  the  shores  of  creeks  and  riyQr^  ^r\d.  am 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


339 


always  on  the  lookout  for  signs.  Should  I  come  across  a  log 
that  is  partly  under  water  and  extending  to  the  shore,  I  take 
my  hatchet  and  chop  an  opening  large  enough  in  which  to  set  a 
No.  I,  No.  or  No.  2  trap.  This  I  cover  up  with  leaves  and 
moss,  and  to  keep  the  wind  from  blowing  the  leaves  or  moss 
off,  I  usually  load  them  down  with  sand  or  dirt.  If  the  water  is 
of  sufficient  depth  I  arrange  chain  to  a  large  stone  so  as  to  pull 
the  raccoon  into  the  water  where  he  will  drown.  A  few  drops  of 
anise  on  top  of  the  moss  or  along  the  log  is  an  attraction. 

At  other  times  I  place  the  trap  within  four  to  five  inches  of 
water,  placing  a  shining  piece  of  nickel  or  tin  on  pan  of  trap. 
The  raccoon  seeing  the  reflection  of  the  mirror-like  object,  will 
come  and  investigate  it,  and  most  likely  when  he  attemps  to  dis- 
turb the  mirror  with  his  paw  he  will  spring  the  trap  and  find 
himself  a  prisoner.  The  chain  I  always  attach  to  the  Hmb  of  some 
tree,  or  piece  of  wood,  and  if  convenient  I  use  the  spring  pole. 
If  the  trap  is  staked  fast  the  raccoon  is  likely  to  twist  until  he 
gets  his  foot  out,  or  have  seen  cases  where  the  foot  or  paw  is 
left  in  the  trap.  For  that  reason  I  prefer  a  large  limb  that  the 
raccoon  can  drag  away  and  enables  me  to  follow  the  trail. 

R.  B.  A. 

Trapping  the  Raccoon. 

We  have  the  following  article  from  William  Plummer  of 
Rochester,  Minnesota : 

''Three  years  ago  I  went  to  trapping  on  a  small  scale.  I 
borrowed  a  few  traps  from  my  neighbor.  No.  i  and  i^,  having 
located  several  dens  in  the  rocks  on  the  south  side  of  a  bluff. 
Coons  will  always  go  into  rocky  dens  for  winter  quarters  in 
preference  to  anywhere  else.  Well,  I  set  my  traps.  Next 
morning  several  traps  were  sprung,  coon  hair  was  on  the  traps, 
but  the  raccoons  were  gone.  They  would  pull  and  chew  until  they 
would  get  out.  Finally,  the  one  den  became  so  covered  with  blood 
from  their  crippled  feet  that  they  wouldn't  go  in  it  any  more, 
nor  have  I  ever  known  a  coon  to  go  in  there  since.  Well,  some- 
thing had  to  be  done — I  must  have  those  coons.  So  I  invested 
in  two  No.  2  Newhouse  and  set  them  in  the  other  den.  I  man- 
aged to  catch  two  small  coons  there  during  the  winter. 

''Last  winter  I  made  up  my  mind  to  do  better  at  the  business. 
So  I  bought  half  a  dozen  No.  3  Newhouse,  and  went  to  work  at 
those  dens.  At  the  first  den  I  could  get  nothing.  They  seemed 
to  think  that  was  a  dangerous  place.  At  the  other  den  I  did 
better,  and  caught  eight  during  the  winter.  I  used  no  bait,  but 
simply  placed  the  trap  in  the  mouth  of  the  den.  One  old  fellow, 
however,  got  the  best  of  me  for  a  while — he  would  turn  the  left 
jaw  of  the  trap  over  and  walk  by.    So  I  placed  another  No.  2  to 


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one  side  and  a  little  behind  the  first  one.  I  covered  the  second 
trap  up  with  leaves  and  the  next  morning  I  had  several  toes,  but 
Mr.  Coon  was  gone.  Well,  that  was  rather  disgusting,  but  I 
was  bound  to  get  him.  About  every  other  morning  my  traps 
would  be  sprung,  and  nothing  there  but  a  little  fur.  I  got  two 
No.  3  traps,  and  took  the  No.  2's  out,  putting  larger  ones 
in  their  place.  The  next  morning  both  traps  were  sprung,  and  on 
the  outside;  Mr.  Coon  had  got  out,  but  left  quite  a  chunk  of 


COMBINATION  STEEL  TRAP  AND  SNARE  SET. 

This  is  a  very  successful  steel  trap  and  snare  arrangement.  Bait  with 
meat,  etc.  Suitable  for  raccoon,  badger  and  other  carnivorous  animals. 
Bury  trap,  also  attach  chain  to  spring  pole.   X  is  where  trap  is  to  be  buried. 

his  flank  in  the  trap.  How  he  got  caught  in  the  flank  I  am  not 
able  to  tell  unless  he  rolled  over  the  traps  to  spring  them.  About 
a  week  afterward  I  found  the  coon  in  the  trap  and  dead,  but  his 
fur  was  badly  damaged. 

'This  winter  I  concluded  to  try  a  new  scheme.  I  had  posted 
myself  during  the  summer  on  the  different  kinds  of  bait  for  coon. 
I  read  up  Trappers'  Guides'  on  the  subject,  and  went  to  work  by 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


341 


placing  a  No.  3  trap  in  each  path  approaching  the  den,  covered  the 
traps  nicely  with  chicken  feathers,  placing  over  each  trap  a  bit  of 
smoked  codfish  and  scattered  a  little  oil  of  anise  and  rhodium 
around.  Well,  the  next  morning  I  had  three  of  the  neighbors' 
tomcats,  but  no  coons;  so  I  found  that  would  not  do.  Then  I 
went  at  the  old  plan,  placing  traps  in  the  den.  During  the  first 
week  I  caught  two  young  ones,  but  no  old  ones.  Then,  again, 
my  traps  commenced  to  be  sprung  every  night.  Sometimes  a  lit- 
tle fur  left  but  no  coon.  I  placed  a  trap  in  each  of  three  dififerent 
paths  within  six  feet  of  the  den,  covered  them  up  with  feathers 
and  leaves.  The  feathers  would  be  pulled  off  the  traps  and  the 
traps  in  the  den  sprung.  Well,  I  hardly  knew  what  next  to  do, 
but  thought  I  would  try  still  another  plan.  I  placed  a  No.  3  just 
at  entrance  to  den,  covered  it  up  carefully,  leaving  the  two  traps 
on  inside  uncovered,  and  in  five  days  caught  one  young  coon  and 
two  of  the  largest  old  coons  I  ever  saw.  I  have  tried  all  kinds 
of  bait  I  ever  heard  of,  but  never  succeeded.  Well,  with  it  I  have 
caught  coons  in  paths  by  placing  a  stone  or  pole  on  either  side 
of  trap  to  make  them  step  over  and  covering  the  trap  carefully, 
but  if  they  become  pinched  a  few  times  they  become  wary.'' 

Trapping  the  Raccoon. 

'T  caught  hundreds  of  raccoons  in  my  time,"  writes  Mr. 
Hammond,  now  retired  and  living  in  Albany.  ''My  trapping 
grounds  were  along  rivers,  creeks,  canals  and  close  to  lakes  in 
Ohio,  near  Deshler,  and  later  in  Missouri,  south  of  Jefiferson  City. 
I  was  always  upon  the  alert,  and  while  fishing  one  spring  day  and 
sitting  among  bushes  on  the  river  bank,  I  noticed  a  coon  on  the 
opposite  side  coming  up  the  river,  and  suddenly  stretched  his 
neck  in  direction  of  square  oyster  can  (used  in  those  days)  that 
was  about  three  feet  from  the  shore  in  four  or  five  inches  of 
water.  He  stayed  around  for  about  fifteen  minutes,  at  various 
times  reaching  out  after  the  can  and  even  moving  it  from  one 
place  to  another,  and  scrutinizing  it  very  closely.  As  my  cork 
went  down,  I  pulled  in  a  fish,  and,  naturally,  the  coon  went  skip- 
ping into  the  woods. 

''The  following  winter  I  bought  a  dozen  coon  traps,  took 
them  to  the  machine  shop  and  had  two  small  holes  drilled  in 
each  pan.  Then  I  took  from  an  old  alarm  clock  the  nickel  case 
and  made  small  round  disks  in  size  resembling  that  of  the  pan.  I 
then  riveted  these  nickel  plates  thereon  and  poli.shed  same  with 
wood  ashes,  and  set  the  traps  along  the  river  banks,  two  to  five 
inches  under  water.  I  also  riveted  gold  plated  disks  upon  the 
pans  with  equal  results.  On  one  occasion  I  placed  a  small  pocket 
mirror  fastened  on  a  piece  of  wood  slanting  and  shining  towards 


342 


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the  shore;  and  set  a  common  steel  trap  just  between  the  shore 
and  the  looking  glass,  but  out  of  the  water.  I  covered  other 
parts  of  the  trap  with  grass,  leaves,  etc.,  so  when  the  coon  tried 
to  examine  the  looking  glass,  he  stepped  upon  the  protruding 
covered  trap  and  was  caught. 

^'I  cut  the  skin  open  on  the  belly  and  stretched  same  in  square 
shape.  Keep  grease  from  the  fur  and  always  pull  the  tail-bone 
out.  Nicely  handled  and  seasonable  skins  bring  twenty-five  per 
cent  more,  and  that's  where  the  profit  lies  for  the  experienced 
trapper. 

''Before  closing  my  letter  let  me  relate  how  I  captured  wild 
cats,  coons,  rabbits  and  other  animals  with  snares.  In  tramping 
through  the  woods,  I  often  came  across  tracks  that  I  did  not  know 


 ^LiL*  

UNCOVERED  STEEL  TRAP  SET  FOR  RACCOONS. 


The  mirror  and  bait  form  double  attractions  to  the  raccoon.  A  double  set 
of  this  kind  should  be  arranged  near  the  bank  of  some  stream  or  lake,  or 
near  the  places  the  raccoon  frequents.  The  steel  trap  as  well  as  the  clog 
should  be  buried. 

by  what  animal  they  were  made.  I  set  these  snares,  made  from 
gut  strings,  wire,  also  cotton  or  linen  lines,  at  various  places,  such 
as  in  front  of  hollow  logs,  passages,  under  brush  or  fence  rails, 
and  other  favorable  places.  Arrange  to  lift  the  animal  ofif  its 
feet  and  away  from  harm  of  other  animals  by  pulling  down  limbs 
or  small  trees,  and  if  these  were  not  conveniently  situated,  I  often 
threw  a  long  rope  across  a  distant  limb,  attached  a  ten  to  twenty- 
pound  stone  on  end  and  raised  it  high  up ;  the  other  end  I  fastened 
to  the  snare  in  such  a  way  that  if  pulled  by  the  animal  the  fastener 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  343 


would  break  or  pull  out  and  the  weight  descend  and  hang  the 
victim  before  he  knew  what  was  up.  The  animal  would  some- 
times get  away  if  caught  by  front  foot,  but  never  if  caught  around 
the  neck  or  hind  foot/' 

Trapping  the  Raccoon. 

''The  raccoon  is  not  a  very  difficult  animal  to  capture.  The 
traps  should  be  set  either  in  the  paths  in  some  woods  that  the 
animal  frequents,  or  along  the  shores  of  a  stream  or  lake.  One 
of  the  most  successful  ways  is  to  make  a  U-shaped  enclosure  at 
the  edge  of  the  water.  This  can  be  done  by  driving  sticks  in  the 
shore ;  not  necessary  that  the  open  part  should  be  exposed  to  the 
water.  Set  trap  at  entrance  and  place  some  bait  at  the  farthest 
end  of  the  pen.  Cover  the  trap  with  water-soaked  leaves  which 
can  be  held  in  place  by  a  light  covering  of  earth.  I  usually  fasten 
the  trap  to  a  brush  drag.  The  latter  I  throw  in  the  water,  and  if 
light  put  a  stone  on  top  of  it  to  keep  it  from  floating  away.  Quite 
often  if  the  raccoon  springs  the  trap  he  will  get  tangled  up  in  the 
drag;  consequently  you  do  not  have  to  hunt  him  up.  This  set 
is  also  recommended  for  mink.  If  the  water  happens  to  be  fairly 
deep,  the  chain  will  become  tangled  up  in  the  brush  and  the 
weight  of  the  trap  will  drown  the  mink  in  short  order.  Caught 
thirteen  raccoons  and  about  tw^enty-five  minks  a  year  ago.  Was 
unable  to  trap  last  year.''  R.  B.  A. 

TRAPPING  THE  OPOSSUM. 

''Below  I  give  in  a  brief  manner  my  way  of  trapping  and 
taking  the  opossum : 

"I  find  out  where  the  opossum  runs,  then  cut  some  sticks  about 
one  inch  in  diameter,  about  eighteen  to  twenty  inches  long,  and 
drive  them  into  the  ground  three  to  four  inches  apart,  in  a  circle 
formation  of  a  diameter  of  eighteen  to  twenty  inches,  leaving  an 
opening  of  about  six  inches  wide. 

"Then  take  one  or  two  steel  traps  and  set  at  opening,  using 
pieces  of  rabbit  or  chicken  as  bait  which  I  place  about  twelve 
inches  beyond  opening  inside  of  coop.  I  always  cover  the  trap 
with  leaves,  bits  of  rotten  wood  and  earth,  having  first  placed 
loose  leaves  beneath  pan  of  trap  to  keep  dirt  from  falling  beneath 
it.    I  also  throw  small  bits  of  meat  outside  the  enclosure. 

"The  best  place  to  set  this  kind  of  trap  is  at  the  edge  of  a  bush 
or  thicket,  bordering  an  old  field  or  creek,  lake  or  any  place 
where  the  opossum  comes  for  food  or  water. 

"Have  used  snares  advantageously,  but  always  attached  same 
to  a  spring  pole  or  limb  of  a  tree,  or  a  young  tree  itself.  A 


344 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


fiddle-string  or  horse-hair  noose  is  better  than  copper  wire,  at 
least  I  always  prefer  it/'  John  D.  Knoll. 

Trapping  the  Opossum. 

'The  opossum  has  a  habit  of  going  around  at  night,  visiting 
henroosts,  if  there  are  any  near.  If  not,  it  catches  birds,  or  what- 
ever it  can  find,  until  it  gets  fat.  Then  it  goes  into  its  hole  which 
it  digs  or  takes  from  other  animals.  There  it  stays  until  it  gets 
hungry  and  poor. 

'T  have  had  success  in  smoking  them  out.  I  took  waste  cotton 
rags,  tearing  them  into  small  strips,  putting  them  loosely  over 
the  hole ;  then  setting  them  on  fire,  blowing  them  until  they  burn 
well.  Then  I  put  my  hand  or  something  over  the  hole  to  smother 
the  blaze  and  drive  the  smoke  into  the  hole  as  far  as  possible. 

"Then  set  the  trap  as  you  would  to  catch  it  without  smoking, 
and  you  will  have  the  opossum,  as  the  smoke  will  drive  it  out. 

''The  kind  of  a  trap  I  use  is  a  No.  i  Victor,  which  always 
holds  them  if  it  is  in  good  working  order.''  R.  B.  A. 

Trapping  the  Opossum. 

The  opossum,  like  the  skunk,  is  an  easy  animal  to  trap.  Hav- 
ing found  out  where  he  runs  I  set  my  line  of  traps  on  his  path. 
Any  kind  of  meat  bait  will  do.  Traps,  however,  should  be  covered 
up,  and  be  sure  and  put  some  cotton  under  the  pan  to  keep  sand 
and  dirt  from  falling  beneath  it.  To  keep  him  from  twisting  out, 
I  generally  attach  trap  to  a  spring  pole. 

A  good  place  to  set  your  trap  is  where  you  have  seen  him 
drink  water.  Also  in  front  of  his  hole.  I  never  resort  to  snares, 
although  I  have  seen  a  lot  of  negroes  catching  them  with  ordinary 
fish  lines.  On  one  occasion  a  negro  brought  past  our  house  a 
large  male  opossum  that  he  claimed  to  have  caught  with  an 
ordinary  fish  hook.  He  suspended  the  bait  over  a  fence  rail  and 
the  animal  in  his  eagerness  to  devour  the  meat,  swallowed  hook 
and  all.  When  the  time  came  to  go  away,  he  found  there  was 
something  tickling,     ^ss^     Cx€.Y\tvaxv.  *  N.  C.  A. 

f4^4^Nf\  Trap 


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345 


TRAPPING  THE  MUSKRAT. 

I  have  trapped  muskrats  since  I  was  twelve  years  old,  and 
have  had  good  success.  I  will  give  you  my  rule.  Trapped  more 
than  I, GOO  the  first  month  this  year  after  the  water  was  frozen. 

Chop  a  small  hole  in  the  south  side  of  the  house  large  enough 
in  which  to  set  your  trap.  Dig  away  a  little  moss  on  the  mound 
so  as  to  set  the  trap  under  water ;  the  grown  rats  are  wise  enough 
to  fill  the  trap  with  moss  and  not  get  caught  and  you  only  get 
the  small  rats. 

No.  I  Victor  traps  are  good  for  rats.  Select  weak  traps  as  the 
strong  ones  break  the  bone  and  they  gnaw  their  leg  or  foot  off 
and  get  away.  Use  the  wet  moss  to  line  edges  of  the  opening  of 
hole,  and  bank  up  good  enough  to  keep  from  freezing ;  then  clean 
away  about  inches  from  the  level  of  the  water,  and  set  trap 
and  if  the  water  freezes  one-half  inch,  you  get  a  rat  anyway.  If 
you  set  on  the  mound,  you  don't.  First  trap  out  the  small  feeding 
houses,  then  the  larger  one.  Later  in  the  winter,  a  person  should 
get  five  to  six  rats  in  each  house. 

If  you  wish  to  spear  the  rats,  get  on  the  house  and  jump  till 
you  see  one  and  then  follow  him  up  and  spear  hirq,  when  the  ice 
is  first  freezing.  For  a  spear,  use  steel  rod,  like  a  wagon  rod, 
sharpened  to  a  point,  taperifig  three  to  five  inches,  with  a  heavy 
handle.  A  person  may  spear  lOO  in  a  day.  Baits  are  not  neces- 
sary for  muskrats. 

In  the  spring  is  a  good  time  to  shoot  rats.  In  a  boat  you  may 
get  in  good  shooting  range.  When  they  are  pairing  they  are  out 
all  day  and  you  can  get  them  regularly  two  at  a  time,  with  good 
wages,  for  two  or  three  weeks  after  the  ice  is  broken  up. 

Rats  can  also  be  trapped  with  a  barrel  at  the  level  of  the 
water,  half  full  of  water  with  some  shingles  floating  in  it.  The 
rat  swimming  up  to  the  barrel  sees  the  bait  on  the  shingles,  jumps 
down,  and  cannot  get  out.    Many  rats  can  be  caught  that  way. 

If  you  are  unable  to  select  weak  traps  for  capturing  musk- 
rats,  you  may  weaken  them  by  heating  them.  You  lose  thirty 
out  of  lOO  by  using  strong  traps,  but  you  can  catch  them  by  the 
hind  leg  by  setting  about  three  inches  in  the  water. 

Adolph  Lien, 

Olaf,  Iowa. 

Trapping  Muskrats  Under  Ice. 

This  is  my  method  of  trapping  muskrats  under  the  ice :  Take 
two  ten-inch  boards  two  feet  long,  and  two  six-inch  boards  two 
feet  long,  and  make  a  box,  using  the  ten-inch  boards  for  sides 
and  the  six-inch  boards  for  top  and  bottom.  Now  make  a  trap 
door  of  wire  for  the  front  end  of  the  box,  which  will  push  in  but 


346         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


will  not  push  out;  set  at  an  angle  of  about  forty-five  degree3. 
Drive  shingle  nails  about  every  inch  or  so  around  the  back  end 
of  the  trap  and  weave  a  net  across  it  so  that  any  mink  could  not 
get  through. 

This  cut  shows  the  trap  finished  with  narrow  boards  nailed 
to  the  sides,  which  come  in  handy  to  sink  in  the  water  for  trapping 
muskrats.  Find  the  muskrat  runway  under  the  ice,  which  you 
can  always  tell  by  the  bubbles  or  riley  water.  Put  a  stone  on  the 
trap  and  sink.    I  have  caught  four  rats  in  a  trap  made  like  this 


Muskrat  Trapper  Arthur  B.  Eastman  visiting  his  traps 

night  after  night,  and  I  now  seldom  use  any  other  trap  for  musk- 
rats.    For  illustration  see  page  273. 

It  is  also  a  fine  trap  for  trapping  mink.  Prop  the  door  up  with 
a  short  stick  about  2^2  inches  long.  Bait  with  rabbit  or  bloody 
chicken  heads.  Set  under  bridges  or  on  the  bank  of  small  streams 
where  there  are  stones  around  it,  or  grass  overhanging  sufficiently 
to  partly  cover  trap. 

E.  J.  FiNEL, 

Waukegan,  111. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide,  347 


Trapping^  the  Muskrat. 

Mr.  A.  S.  Lamb,  a  Michigan  trapper,  writes  as  follows :  ''My 
method  of  trapping,  rather  capturing  muskrats  is  as  follows : 
Having  ascertained  a  suitable  location  where  muskrats  are  plen- 
tiful, I  dig  a  hole  in  the  ground  into  which  I  place  a  barrel  half- 
filled  with  water.  I  place  sweet  apples  on  some  laths  or  shingles 
within  the  barrel,  and  then  lay  a  ten  or  twelve-inch  board  leading 
from  the  shore  or  water  along  to  the  barrel.  I  also  place  pieces 
of  apples  on  the  board  and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  on  the 
shore,  also  on  shingles  that  are  fastened  so  as  not  to  float  away. 
The  muskrat,  on  discovering  the  bait,  will  naturally  go  up  on  the 
board,  tumble  in  the  barrel  and  of  course  not  being  able  to  get  out, 
will  drown.  So  when  I  come  along  the  following  morning  with 
a  rake  I  am  able  to  take  up  eight  or  ten  drowned  muskrats  at  a 
time.  On  one  occasion  I  took  out  nineteen  full-grown  and  three 
kitts. 

Trapping  the  Muskrat. 

''In  trapping  the  muskrat  on  the  Rush  lakes  of  Minnesota 
I  use  a  No.  i  steel  trap.  In  the  middle  of  winter  when  the  lakes 
are  frozen  over,  I  proceed  to  business. 

"I  approach  a  rat-house  and  thrust  the  muskrat  spear  into 
it  on  the  south  or  southeast  side.  If  it  is  frequented  by  rats  it 
will  be  found  open  and  hollow  inside.  I  next  take  my  small 
hunter's  ax  and  chop  a  V-shaped  hole  in  the  house  on  the  south 
side.  When  the  opening  is  reached,  I  take  out  all  the  moss, 
rushes,  etc.,  which  have  fallen  in  and  am  careful  to  leave  it  just 
as  the  rats  had  it.  By  feeling  around  you  will  find  a  little  shelf 
or  slide  which  the  rats  climb  upon  in  coming  into  the  house.  I 
now  take  the  trap  and  set  it  on  this  shelf.  If  it  is  covered  with 
water,  which  it  generally  is,  it  is  not  necessary  to  cover  it  other- 
wise; but  if  it  is  above  water,  I  cover  the  trap  with  fine  moss — 
rubbed  between  the  hands  until  so  fine  it  will  not  prevent  the  trap 
holding  the  rat's  leg.  I  then  fill  up  the  hole  with  a  few  rushes  and 
moss,  then  cover  it  all  with  snow  or  moss.  No  bait  is  necessary 
in  this  kind  of  trapping.  I  visit  my  traps  every  morning  and 
am  generally  rewarded  by  a  big  brown  rat  in  each  trap.  I  leave 
a  trap  in  a  house  from  six  to  ten  nights,  taking  care  to  always 
keep  it  well  covered  so  it  will  not  freeze  inside.  The  trap  is  held 
by  a  long  stick  stuck  in  the  side  of  the  house. 

"In  trapping  the  muskrat  in  open  water  in  the  spring  I  set 
my  traps  on  the  outside  of  the  houses,  just  under  the  water  where 
the  rats  climb  upon  the  house.  In  this  way  I  sometimes  catch 
5  or  6  in  a  single  trap  in  one  day. 

"I  go  around  to  my  traps  in  a  small  boat — one  man  can 
handle  about  50  traps  in  this  way. 


 Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide,  349 

''When  a  rat  is  drowned  or  dies  under  the  water,  I  take  the 
hooked  end  of  the  spear  and  hook  it  into  the  trap,  and  lift  my 
muskrat  on  board.  If  aHve,  take  a  small  stick  and  kill  them  with 
it.  Be  careful  not  to  get  them  too  near  as  they  will  fight,  and 
if  opportunity  presents  impregnate  their  teeth  in  a  person's  limb 
or  body.    Don't  give  them  a  chance. 

''I  take  the  skin  off  promptly,  am  careful  in  skinning,  more 
so  in  stretching,  and  still  greater  in  picking  out  a  reliable  firm  to 
ship  to.''  Mr.  A.  C.  Cramblit, 

of  Okabena. 

Trapping  the  Muskrat. 

The  muskrat  may  be  caught  in  winter  by  setting  traps  in 
their  houses,  by  cutting  a  hole,  preferably  on  the  south  side  and 
setting  traps  on  the  inside  of  the  houses.  If  the  opening  inside 
is  not  large  enough  to  set  the  trap  upon,  enlarge  it  by  means 
of  an  axe  or  ice  chisel.  At  any  rate  the  trap  should  be  set  solid 
so  that  it  cannot  be  tipped  over  by  the  muskrat  climbing  on 
the  place.  The  opening  in  the  house  should  not  be  made  any 
larger  than  to  admit  the  trap,  and  should  be  stopped  up  by  wet 
stuff  taken  from  the  inside,  after  which  snow  may  be  placed 
on  top  of  the  house.  It  is  very  important  to  close  the  opening 
and  make  the  house  as  warm  as  possible  as  on  this  depends  the 
success  of  the  trapper. 

Another  way  which  is  very  successful  in  the  Northwest 
where  muskrats  have  holes  in  the  banks  along  lakes  and  sloughs, 
is  to  set  the  traps  in  these  holes.  These  openings  can  be  readily 
found  by  taking  note  of  the  riley  condition  of  the  water  at  their 
opening.  The  trapper  now  proceeds  to  tramp  around  on  the 
bank  opposite  until  the  earth  gives  way  beneath  his  feet,  then 
cutting  a  hole  and  setting  the  trap  in  two  to  three  inches  of 
water;  sometimes  the  holes  are  too  deep  for  the  earth  to  give 
way,  when  considerable  digging  will  have  to  be  resorted  to  in 
order  to  find  them.  Where  muskrats  are  numerous  lo  to  15 
may  be  caught  in  some  individual  hole. 

J.  R.  S. 

Trapping  the  Muskrat. 

If  the  water  is  too  shallow  and  the  muskrat  cannot  be  drowned 
in  the  place  where  traps  are  set,  attach  chain  to  small  limb  which 
the  muskrat  will  drag  into  deep  water  and  becoming  tangled  up 
will  drown.  If  the  water  should  happen  to  be  very  deep  in  the 
vicinity,  attach  a  fish  line  to  the  drag  which  will  enable  you 
to  pull  in  the  muskrat,  trap  and  drag,  on  your  next  visit. 

The  laws  of  many  states  prevent  the  breaking  of  muskrat 


350 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


houses,  therefore  it  is  difficuh  to  trap  the  muskrat  during  the 
winter  time.    My  method  is  as  follows : 

Chop  a  hole  over  their  run-way  and  lower  your  trap  with 
two  sticks.  Now  make  a  stick  with  a  sharp  point  which  drive 
into  the  bottom  of  the  lake.  On  a  protruding  branch,  tie  a  piece 
of  apple,  carrot,  etc.,  and  arrange  bait  7  or  8  inches  above  trap. 
Ring  of  chain  should  be  fastened  either  to  a  string  or  to  a  pole 
fastened  to  the  bottom.  Sometimes  I  place  3  or  4  traps  in  one 
hole;  in  such  cases  I  place  the  bait  in  the  center  with  the  traps 
all  around.  The  chains  should  be  staked  on  the  outside  so  that 
if  one  muskrat  is  caught  he  will  not  spring  the  other  traps  in 
his  struggle  to  get  away.  F.  H.  C. 


Chains  should  be  stapled  upon  the  bottom  of  plank.  For  bait  use  parsnips, 
beets,  turnips  or  their  own  meat,  which  should  be  fastened  upon  plank. 


In  the  late  fall  and  early  spring,  there  is  as  much  fun  in 
killing  muskrats  as  there  is  to  sit  in  a  boat  and  fish.  Probably 
more.  Trapping  muskrat  with  steel  traps,  wire  traps,  resorting 
to  deadfalls,  also  to  boxes  and  barrels,  is  all  good  enough,  but 
when  these  are  impracticable  and  to  get  immediate  yield  during 
the  daytime,  I  prefer  the  following: 

I  provide  myself  with  a  heavy  club,  and  my  partner  with  a 
hoop  net  attached  to  a  6-foot  pole.  When  I  find  an  under- 
ground run-way  that  I  think  is  inhabited  by  the  muskrat,  I  hit 
the  ground  just  above  the  run-way  a  sharp  rap.  If  inhabited, 
the  muskrat  will  immediately  decamp.  My  partner  then  catches 
him  in  the  net,  or  prevents  him  from  coming  out  of  the  hole. 
If  one  gets  away  I  usually  get  a  chance  to  put  a  22  in  his  head. 


FLOATING  MUSKRAT  SET. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  351 


If  they  go  into  another  hole,  I  watch,  and  we  proceed  the  same 
as  before. 

A  box  trap  with  a  sHding  door,  that  can  be  shoved  right  in 
it,  or  next  to  the  hole,  or  placed  in  a  run-way  under  the  ice,  is 
good.  I  have  used  the  box  trap  repeatedly.  If  set  below  the 
ice,  nail  a  stick  to  the  box  so  that  you  can  raise,  and  locate  the 
trap.  Of  course,  when  the  water  is  frozen  one  has  to  chop  a 
pretty  big  hole,  but  what  trapper  is  not  accustomed  to  hard  work 
as  long  as  it  is  remunerative. 

Probably  the  best  way  to  get  a  great  many  rats  is  to  sink  a 
water  tight  barrel  into  the  lake  so  that  the  top  protrudes  two 
to  three  inches.  Fill  barrel  one-half  full  of  water.  Weight  it 
down  with  stones,  but  first  see  that  the  barrel  rests  on  level  or  a 
solid  piece  of  ground ;  if  it  is  not  level  make  it  so.  Within  the 
barrel  fit  a  lid  turning  on  two  pegs.  Weight  one  side  so  that 
lid  will  always  close  after  the  muskrat  is  dumped  into  the  barrel. 
For  bait  I  use  potatoes,  carrots  or  apples,  and  if  these  are  un- 
obtainable, a  piece  of  their  own  flesh.  One  of  my  neighbors 
does  not  seem  to  take  so  much  trouble  in  preparing  this  set; 
all  he  does  is  to  fasten  the  bait  on  a  string  which  he  suspends 
across  the  top  of  barrel  with  the  bait  in  the  center.  The  muskrat 
in  trying  to  get  at  the  bait  jumps  into  the  barrel,  from  which 
he  cannot  get  out. 

The  only  time  either  one  of  us  resort  to  steel  traps  is  when 
the  weather  is  real  cold.  Chop  a  hole  in  the  muskrat's  house, 
and  set  one  or  more  traps  either  on  the  shelf  or  on  the  ice  within 
the  house.  These  traps  are  covered  with  grass,  found  in  the 
house.    Cover  hole  up  before  you  go  away. 

To  prevent  muskrats  from  twisting  their  legs  off  or  getting 
out  of  the  trap  otherwise,  I  find  the  best  thing  is  to  set  the  trap 
on  some  log  or  railroad  tie  and  arrange  it  so  that  when  the 
animal  jumps  into  the  water,  he  will  drown.  Floating  sets  work 
day  and  night  and  whether  the  water  is  high  or  low. 

About  two  miles  from  my  place  there  is  a  small  lake  and 
some  years  muskrats  are  so  thick  that  it  does  not  take  much 
of  a  contrivance  or  a  genius  to  trap  them.  Steel  traps  are  too 
slow  work  for  me.  During  the  fall  months,  I  make  a  box  three 
feet  wide,  eight  feet  long,  and  eighteen  inches  deep,  usually  out 
of  two-inch  planks.  On  the  outside,  I  nail  a  four-inch  board 
clear  around  about  three  inches  lower  than  the  top  of  the  box ; 
this  is  a  kind  of  shelf,  upon  which  the  muskrat  climbs  with 
ease  if  some  food  is  there  to  attract  him.  The  box  is  filled  two- 
thirds  full  of  water  and  otherwise  weighted  down  so  that  the 
outside  shelf  is  even  with  level  of  lake.  I  use  apples,  carrots,  etc., 
for  bait ;  these  are  securely  fastened  upon  shelf,  thus  forcing  the 


352 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


animals  to  climb  upon  the  shelf  for  the  food.  I  do  this  five  or  six 
times  before  I  want  to  trap  the  muskrat.  During  this  time,  I  have 
boards  over  the  box  so  that  the  animal  cannot  get  in.  When  the 
time  is  ripe  I  remove  the  boards  and  suspend  the  bait  on  a  string 
in  center  of  box.  The  muskrat^  accustomed  to  the  shelf,  gets  into 
the  box,  and  not  being  able  to  get  out,  drowns. 

This  is  a  smooth  water  set  and  not  good  in  rough  weather. 
Trap  doors  can  be  made  within  the  box.  These  are  arranged 
so  that  when  the  muksrat  steps  upon  the  door  his  or  her  weight 
drops  door  and  the  muskrat.  The  door,  of  course,  having  un- 
loaded its  burden,  goes  back.  R.  B.  A. 

TRAPPING  THE  BEAVER. 

Mr.  Lewis  D.  Bergey,  an  old  trapper,  writes  on  trapping 
the  beaver  as  follows  : 

''There  are  various  modes  of  trapping  these  sagacious  ani- 
mals adopted  by  professional  hunters  and  trappers.  In  the  fall 
and  spring  the  chief  method  is  to  make  a  small  opening  in  the 
dam  and  set  the  No.  4  trap  in  such  a  manner  that  they  w^ill 
get  caught  when  repairing  the  damage.  The  trap  should  be 
fastened  by  several  feet  of  chain  to  a  pole  driven  firmly  at  full 
length  of  the  chain  into  the  mud  at  the  bottom  of  the  lake ;  no 
marks  must  be  left.  Should  the  chain  be  slack,  the  beaver  is 
almost  sure  to  leave  a  toe  or  paw  in  the*  trap,  since  he  has  a 
chance  of  resting  on  the  dam  and  by  twisting  and  using  his  teeth 
will  set  himself  free.  It  is  then  a  labor  of  much  ingenuity  to 
catch  him.  The  presence  of  beaver  and  their  size  are  judged 
by  the  freshness  of  the  sticks  and  the  size  of  the  teeth-marks 
on  them,  as  well  as  the  general  appearance  of  the  works. 

''Another  mode  practised  to  catch  these  wiseacres  is  to  make 
an  opening  in  the  dam  and  set  the  trap  at  some  distance  where 
he  is  likely  to  get  mud  and  sticks  for  repairing  the  mischief. 
Advantage  is  also  taken  of  his  roads  and  places  where  he  is  in 
the  habit  of  sitting  while  eating.  A  sort  of  oil  called  castor, 
used  formerly  for  medicinal  purposes,  taken  from  the  animal, 
is  used  to  attract  them  to  the  trap.  When  setting  a  trap  water 
must  be  splashed  freely  wherever  the  bushes  or  banks  have  been 
touched,  as  a  beaver  is  very  keen  of  scent,  and  will  turn  away 
if  he  suspects  anything. 

"The  way  to  dress  a  fresh  skin  is  to  make  a  large  hoop  of 
birch  or  poplar  and  lace  the  skin  tightly  to  it  by  means  of  holes 
cut  all  around  the  skin  near  the  edge.  The  weight  of  a  well- 
cleaned  skin  varies  from  half  a  pound  to  three  pounds,  according 
to  the  age  and  season  of  the  year. 

"Beaver  are  found  in  many  places  in  the  United  States,  but 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  353 


nowhere  so  plentiful  as  in  Northern  Canada.  In  the  great 
stretch  of  lakes  in  Athabasca,  and  the  north  shore  of  Labrador, 
beaver  are  considered  superior  to  those  caught  further  west. 
Beaver  becomes  prime  about  the  first  of  October  and  continues 
to  improve  until  about  the  first  of  May,  when  it  deteriorates. 
The  flesh  of  a  fat  beaver  is  considered  by  many  as  the  most 
delicate  of  any  to  be  procured  in  the  bush.  The  tail  also  is  a 
delicacy  when  properly  cooked,  and  when  smoked  and  dried  it 
has  the  flavor  of  bacon.'' 

Trapping  the  Beaver. 

H.  Miller,  of  Lewistown,  Mont.,  gives  us  the  following 
article : 

''The  beaver  is  a  water  animal  and  lives  in  holes  in  the  banks 
of  streams,  and  in  houses  which  it  makes  in  the  water  out  of 
mud  and  sticks.  Its  food  is  bark,  corn,  wheat,  rats,  grass,  etc. 
It  has  its  young  once  a  year,  generally  in  the  month  of  April, 
having  from  two  to  six  at  a  birth.  They  do  not  increase  very 
fast,  as  it  requires  about  four  years  to  get  their  full  growth. 
The  beaver  castor  or  bark  sacs,  and  the  oil  stones,  are  found 
near  the  vent,  in  four  sacs  in  both  sexes.  In  taking  them  out, 
cut  around  them,  and  take  out  together  with  as  little  meat  as 
possible.  The  bark  sacs  contain  a  yellow  substance.  To  get 
the  contents,  tie  a  string  around  hole  in  the  bark  sacs  and 
rub  them  between  the  hands  until  they  are  soft;  then  cut  them 
open  and  squeeze  the  stufif  into  a  cup.  To  get  the  oil  of  the  oil 
stone,  cut  the  end  oflf  and  squeeze  it.  Keep  separate  and  mix 
according  as  directed.   You  can  put  this  in  bottles. 

''The  baits  for  beaver  are  made  as  follows:  i.  Take  the 
castor  of  one  beaver,  add  twenty  drops  Oil  of  Cinnamon,  ten 
drops  Oil  of  Anise,  and  urine  of  the  beaver  to  make  the  bait  the 
consistency  of  mush.  2.  Take  the  castor  sacs  of  one  beaver  : 
add  seven  drops  of  Oil  of  Sassafras,  seven  drops  Oil  of  Anise 
and  ten  drops  of  the  oil  from  the  Oil  Stone.  3.  Take  the  castor 
sacs  of  one  beaver,  ten  drops  Jamaica  Rum,  five  drops  Oil  of 
Anise,  five  drops  Oil  of  Cloves,  five  drops  Oil  of  Sassafras  and 
five  drops  Oil  of  Rhodium.  4.  Take  the  castor  sacs  of  one 
beaver,  add  ten  drops  of  the  oil  from  the  Oil  Stone,  and  beaver 
urine  enough  to  make  the  bait  like  mush.  These  I  call  natural 
baits,  and  they  will  fool  the  oldest  beaver  that  lives. 

"Beavers  cut  small  trees  and  build  dams  in  streams  and  when 
you  see  fresh  work  you  have  beaver  close  by.  You  will  find 
slides  where  they  go  into  the  water.  Set  your  traps  at  the  foot 
of  the  slides,  three  inches  under  the  water,  and  cover  with 
mud    and  leaves.    Put  the  end  of  the  trap  towards  the  center 


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of  the  stream  and  fasten  it  to  the  drowning  pole  (described 
elsewhere),  and  leave  everything  as  natural  as  possible.  Take 
your  bait  and  put  it  on  the  end  of  a  stick  six  inches  long;  split 
one  end  three  or  four  times  and  dip  it  in  the  bait  and  stick  it 
up  six  or  seven  inches  above  the  water  in  the  slide.  Wear  gum 
boots  in  setting  traps  and  carry  a  tin  cup — after  setting  a  trap 
use  yaur  tin  cup  to  wash  away  the  scent. 

''Skin  the  beaver  by  starting  the  knife  in  the  under  lip,  split 
skin  to  the  tail,  skin  the  front  legs  whole  (some  skin  them  all 
whole),  stretch  them  as  near  round  as  possible.  Use  the  hoop 
stretcher  to  stretch  the  beaver  skin.  Cut  small  holes  close  to 
the  edge  of  the  skin  and  use  twine  or  bark.  Stretch  the  skin 
until  it  is  tight.  Use  a  jutting-pole  and  knife  to  take  ofif  the 
grease  and  meat  from  the  skin  before  it  is  stretched. 

'T  like  the  Newhouse  trap  best  for  catching  nearly  all  kinds 
of  animals.    I  have  two  faults  to  find  with  them,  first,  the  pan 


BARREL  TRAP. 


Suitable  for  muskrats.  Sink  so  that  top  protrudes  4  or  5  inches  above 
water.  Fill  barrel  half  full  of  water,  weight  down  with  stones.  Bait 
swinging  drop  door  as  per  illustration,  with  potatoes,  apples,  carrots,  beets, 
etc. 

is  too  small;  second,  the  chain  is  too  long — but  they  stand  the 
weather. 

''To  set  a  trap  for  beaver,  cut  a  pole  eight  or  nine  feet  long 
(described  hereafter),  push  the  small  end  into  the  bottom  of  the 
creek  where  the  water  is  deep  enough  to  drown  a  beaver,  put 
the  chain  ring  over  the  big  end  of  the  pole,  push  the  pole  the 
length  of  the  chain  to  one  side  of  the  slide,  and  sink  the  pole 
under  the  water  and  put  your  husk  or  stake  straddle  up  the  pole 
and  drive  it  down  solid;  see  that  the  ring  can  travel  the  pole 
when  a  beaver  is  caught.  If  he  can  get  on  land  he  will  bite  his 
feet  off  and  go. 

Trapping  the  Beaver. 

Southern  method  as  used  in  the  swamps  of  Louisiana  by  R. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  355 


W.  Riggs — The  bait  used  and  the  way  to  set  the  traps : 

''The  bait  used :  First  mix  one-half  ounce  of  alcohol,  fifteen 
drops  oil  of  sassafras.  Use  ten  drops  of  this  mixture  with  the 
castor  sac  of  one  large  beaver. 

"For  a  set,  use  two  No.  4  Newhouse  traps.  Tie  the  traps 
together  by  one  of  the  springs  of  each  trap.  This  is  to  make 
more  weight  and  also  to  help  to  tangle  the  beaver  up  when 
caught.  Now  set  your  traps  in  three  to  six  inches  of  water.  Set 
so  the  beaver  will  have  to  come  over  the  loose  jaw  of  the  traps. 
Now  whatever  the  distance  is  to  deep  water,  tie  a  piece  of  rope 
to  the  rings  of  the  trap  chains,  long  enough  for  the  beaver  to 
get  into  deep  water  when  caught.  If  you  have  a  piece  of  iron 
in  camp  you  can  tie  that  also  to  the  traps.  The  stake  that  the 
rope  is  fastened  to  should  have  a  hook  to  it.  Drive  it  down  in 
the  mud  all  out  of  sight.  Coil  up  the  rope  and  cover  it  up  also 
with  mud.  Cover  your  traps  so  that  nothing  shows.  Now  take 
a  small  dead  stick  and  stick  it  into  your  bait  about  an  inch. 
Then  stick  it  up  in  the  water  about  six  inches  from  your  traps 
on  the  land  side,  with  just  the  bait  end  sticking  out  of  the  water. 
I  also  tie  the  bait  sticks  to  the  traps  with  a  string  so  when  the 
beaver  is  caught  he  will  take  the  bait  stick  with  him.  For  if  the 
bait  stick  was  left  after  the  beaver  was  caught,  other  beavers 
would  come  and  smell  of  it  and  then  that  kind  of  bait  would 
have  no  attraction  for  them  for  some  time.  I  mix  up  bait  from 
both  the  male  and  female,  so  that  I  will  have  a  change.  Set 
your  traps  away  from  their  houses  or  holes.  Do  not  disturb 
their  dams.  In  setting  your  traps  wade  in  on  one  side  of  the 
place  where  you  are  going  to  set  your  traps  and  do  all  of  your 
work  from  the  water  side.  Never  walk  on  the  ground  in  front 
of  your  set.  When  you  have  your  set  made,  throw  water  over 
everything  near  you.  If  there  are  any  bushes  within  five  or 
more  feet  of  you  throw  water  on  them.  If  you  will  use  care  and 
have  a  little  patience  you  can  catch  every  one  in  that  colony  and 
you  need  not  smoke  your  traps  or  use  gloves  either. 

Trapping  the  Beaver. 

C.  Steele,  a  trapper  residing  at  Altamont,  Mo.,  gives  us  the 
following  good  article  on  beaver : 

''The  beaver  is  a  very  shy  and  cunning  animal,  always  on  the 
guard  against  danger,  thus  making  it  hard  to  trap  him  unless 
one  understands  his  ways  and  habits. 

"My  experience  has  been  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  in  the  State 
of  Washington.  The  beaver  lives  along  streams  or  lakes ;  if 
streams,  he  dams  them,  thus  forming  a  kind  of  reservoir  or  lake, 
and  even  at  the  outlet  of  lakes  he  places  a  dam,  thus  raising  the 


356 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


water  of  the  lake.  After  he  has  prepared  his  dam  and  built  his 
home,  he  commences  carrying  food.  This  is  chiefly  branches 
of  trees  or  bushes,  and  even  smill  trees  themselves.  He  always 
chooses  tender  green  ones.  These  he  places  in  the  bottom  of  the 
lake  to  use  as  desired,  or  in  his  hut  or  lodge,  and  should  he  be 
disturbed  at  any  time  he  will  stop  work  for  several  days  and  live 
ofif  the  boughs  already  sunk  in  the  bottom  of  the  lake  or  lodge, 
thus  making  it  impossible  to  trap  him  until  he  again  commences 
work.  He  usually  does  his  work  among  young  sprouts  along 
the  bank  of  his  lake  or  stream;  sometimes  he  will  go  for  some 
distance  up  a  small  stream  and  float  boughs  down  to  the  main 
lake  or  dam  in  the  stream  where  he  has  his  hut. 


''There  are  many  ways  to  catch  him,  but  I  will  only  give 
two  or  three  of  the  best  ways.  The  first  thing  is  the  trap ;  the 
best  kind  is  a  strong  steel  trap,  the  Newhouse,  or  some  othej 


FLOATING   BOX  SET. 

For  description  see  page  351. 


good  brand.  Then  the  best  way  to  trap  the  beaver  is  to  pro- 
cure some  castoreum  (which  is  an  odorous  liquid  carried  in  a 
small  pouch  by  the  male  beaver).  Then  cut  some  small  twigs, 
one  for  each  trap,  and  having  selected  the  dam  of  the  colony  of 
beaver  you  wish  to  trap,  procure  a  pair  or  rubber  boots,  or  re- 
move your  boots  and  wade  up  the  stream  along  the  shore  of  the 
lake  or  stream  where  they  have  been  at  work  upon  the  sprouts, 
but  be  careful  and  do  not  step  out  on  the  land  where  the  beaver 
can  see  your  tracks  or  scent  you,  for  if  he  does  he  will  stay  in 
his  home  for  several  days.  When  you  have  selected  a  spot 
where  the  bank  is  steep,  secure  your  trap  by  a  strong  stake  be- 
neath the  water,  then  fasten  a  heavy  rock  to  your  trap  and  dig 
a  flat  place  in  the  bank  a  few  inches  beneath  water,  placing  your 
trap  thereon.    Then  dip  the  end  of  your  stick  in  the  castoreum 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


357 


you  procured  and  stick  the  opposite  end  in  the  ground,  just  out 
of  the  water  and  leaning  over  tl  e  trap.  Then  your  trap  is  ready 
for  him.  He  comes  out  as  daikness  approaches  and  starts  to- 
wards his  ground  where  he  procures  food,  and  as  he  swims 
along  he  smells  the  castoreum  and  thinks  a  strange  beaver  has 
come  into  his  pond  or  lake.  He  swims  up  to  the  stake  or  twig 
to  get  a  better  scent,  and  as  his  foot  touches  the  ground  the  trap 
is  sprung.  Then  finding  he  is  f:st  he  springs  backward  into  the 
water  and  displaces  the  rock  which  is  fastened  to  the  trap,  and 
the  heavy  rock  pulls  him  down  and  drowns  him.  This  prevents 
him  from  making  any  noise  to  scare  the  rest  away  or  from  gnaw- 
ing his  foot  off  to  escape,  as  he  frequently  does  if  left  long  m 
the  trap.    In  this  way  you  can  sometimes  catch  the  entire  colony. 

''Another  way  is  to  cut  a  hole  or  crevice  in  the  top  of  the 
dam,  and  set  the  trap  just  below  the  surface  of  the  water  directly 
beneath  the  hole.  The  beaver  at  once  starts  to  repair  the  dam 
and  thus  gets  in  the  trap ;  but  this  method  is  rarely  used  by  ex- 
perienced trappers  unless  they  cannot  procure  c;u.storeum,  and  in 
this  way  they  procure  it,  even  at  the  expense  of  frightening  the 
rest  of  the  colony  sometimes  entirely  away. 

''Another  way  is  to  cover  the  trap  neatly  in  the  path  of  the 
beaver  leading  from  the  lake  to  his  feeding  ground,  but  this  has 
the  same  disadvantage  as  the  last  plan. 

"I  could  write  you  more  about  their  ways  of  living,  houses, 
etc.,  but  think  that  I  have  told  all  that  would  be  necessary  to 
know  to  make  a  success  at  trapping  them." 

Trapping  the  Beaver. 

To  trap  beaver  in  winter  when  the  water  is  frozen :  Select 
a  place  close  to  their  houses  and  close  to  a  bank  where  the  water 
is  not  more  than  two  feet  deep  under  the  ice.  If  the  water  is 
too  deep,  cut  away  part  of  the  dam  and  lower  the  water  to  the 
right  depth.  Now  cut  a  hole  in  the  ice  two  or  three  feet  across, 
according  to  thinness  of  ice  and  the  size  of  bait.  Next  cut  the 
bait,  which  should  be  the  top  of  a  poplar  or  birch  about  four 
inches  through  at  the  big  end ;  shove  this  under  the  ice  and  fasten 
with  a  stake  which  has  a  hook  on  it.  A  trap  may  be  placed  on 
the  bottom  right  below  where  bait  is  fastened  by  the  stake,  or 
the  bait  may  be  left  without  trap  for  one  night  when  in  the 
morning  the  bait  is  usually  all  taken  away.  Now  set  three  or  four 
traps  in  the  following  manner,  and  as  close  to  the  former  place 
as  possible.  Cut  a  number  of  stakes  (dry)  and  drive  into  bottom 
in  half  circle  about  fifteen  inches  across,  put  a  few  green  sticks 
of  poplar  inside  of  this  half-circle  and  drive  into  bottom ;  set 
the  traps  on  the  bottom  just  outside  of  the  green  sticks,  resting 


358 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


firmly  so  that  it  cannot  be  tipped  over  by  the  beaver  gnawing 
at  the  bark.  The  trap  should  be  fastened  to  a  dry  stake  set  slop- 
ing towards  the  deepest  part  of  stream.  The  beaver  trapper 
should  endeavor  to  catch  as  many  in  as  short  a  time  as  possible, 
as  the  remaining  beavers  will  soon  become  shy  of  the  place. 

T.  GULLICKSON, 

Canada. 

TRAPPING  THE  OTTER. 

The  habits  of  this  valuable  fur  bearer  are  less  generally  known 
than  are  those  of  the  mink  and  others  of  the  fur  bearing  animals 
pursued  by  amateur  trappers.  They  are  very  shy,  which  fact 
taken  with  their  nocturnal  habits  render  them  seldom  seen,  even 
where  they  are  fairly  common.  Their  sign  is  unmistakable  after 
one  has  had  his  attention  called  to  it.  The  excrement,  consists 
almost  wholly  of  the  scales  of  fish,  and  when  fresh  a  large  mixture 
of  slime.  The  track  very  much  resembles  that  of  the  mink  but 
much  larger.  In  snow  the  track  has  been  well  imitated  by  drag- 
ging a  meal  bag  filled  with  hay  or  sawdust  and  then  leading  a 
hound  along  the  trail  thus  made.  The  otter  and  hound  however 
do  not  walk  alike.  Their  playful  habit  of  rolling  and  plunging 
through  the  snow  and  sliding  down  steep  banks  into  the  water 
have  been  often  described  by  other  writers,  but  I  do  not  re- 
member to  have  ever  seen  in  print  their  habit  of  going  on  land 
to  deposit  their  excretia  which  they  do  in  regular  well  defined 
situations,  and  then  rolling  about  in  much  the  same  way  that  a 
dog  rolls  in  carrion  or  other  ill-smelling  things.  And  now  right 
there  in  the  midst  of  the  pile  is  the  best  place  to  set  a  trap,  which 
should  be  a  Newhouse  No.  3  or  3J/2  carefully  concealed  from 
sight  and  everything  left  as  natural  as  possible.  I  have  caught 
foxes  in  my  otter  traps  set  as  above  as  they  came  to  roll  in  the 
^'fragrant''  bed. 

Another  good  place  to  set  is  where  they  come  out  of  the 
water  to  go  to  the  slide.  An  otter  will  invariably  cross  a  point 
of  land  in  a  long  bend  of  a  stream  when  traveling,  in  preference 
to  going  around,  and  in  all  streams  frequented  by  otters  in  their 
well  known  habit  of  journeying  from  one  stream  to  another,  a 
well  defined  path  will  be  found  across  these  ''oxbows"  and  here 
is  another  good  place  to  set  a  carefully  concealed  trap  without 
any  bait.  In  fact  an  otter  will  very  seldom  touch  bait  of  any 
kind,  but  their  bump  of  curiosity  is  highly  developed,  which  will 
usually  lead  them  near  enough  to  investigate  through  the  sense 
of  smell,  any  unusual  object  about  their  haunts.  For  instance, 
a  dead  fish  placed  just  beyond  a  trap  will  sometimes  lead  to  their 
capture  although  they  never  eat  dead  fish. 

Otters  are  very  regular  in  their  wandering  habit.    After  the 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


359 


young  become  large  enough  to  follow  the  mother,  the  whole 
family  start  on  the  wandering  life,  going  over  again  and  again 
practically  the  same  route,  and  the  trapper  may  confidently  ex- 
pect them  to  appear  at  a  certain  slide  at  quite  regular  intervals 
during  the  fall  and  winter.  This  is  kept  up  utitil  the  breeding 
season  comes  round  again  when  the  female  retires  to  her  nest 
in  some  inaccessible  swamp  to  bring  forth  her  young. 

Sometimes  the  route  is  varied  for  some  reason  and  their  con- 
spicuous trail  in  the  deep  snow  is  found  in  unexpected  places, 
even  going  over  elevated  ridges  seemingly  just  for  the  fun  of 
wallowing  through  the  snow.  In  single  file  they  go,  one  after 
the  other,  resembling  with  the  characteristic  rising  and  falling  of 
the  arched  back,  a  huge  serpent. 

The  best  trap  in  my  estimation  is  the  Newhouse  No.  — 
the  teeth  being  a  great  advantage  in  holding  him,  as  when  caught 
he  exerts  his  great  strength  to  the  utmost  in  his  efforts  to  get 
away.  Where  possible  a  heavy  stone  or  properly  constructed 
sliding  pole  should  be  employed  to  drown  him  as  quickly  as 
possible. 

Charles  E.  Ingalls, 

East  Templeton,  Mass. 

Trapping  the  Otter. 

Mr.  D.  H.  Smith,  a  man  of  experience  in  trapping  otter,  re- 
lates his  method. 

'Tn  trapping  for  otter  I  go  along  banks  of  running  streams 
or  lakes.  The  otter  is  seldom  found  around  ponds,  as  he  lives 
principally  on  fish.  The  otter  raises  a  litter  of  three  to  five  pups 
every  year.  A  successful  otter  trapper  must  study  the  otter  and 
have  considerable  experience  before  he  is  able  to  set  his  traps 
and  capture  the  animal  within  a  reasonable  length  of  time. 

'T  use  No.  3  and  No.  4  steel  traps  with  a  chain  of  four  to 
five  feet — the  longer  the  better.  As  otters  are  travelers  and  run 
up  and  down  streams,  stopping  at  various  places  from  three  to 
six  miles,  a  trip  of  that  kind  takes  from  one  to  two  weeks.  They 
have  what  trappers  call  'slides,'  which  are  found  along  the  banks 
of  rivers  and  lakes,  where  the  bank  is  four  to  six  feet  high  and 
fairly  steep.  They  will  come  from  the  water,  go  up  the  hill,  turn 
around,  lay  flat  down  on  their  belly,  spread  out  front  and  rear 
legs,  and  slide  rapidly  into  the  water.  This  operation  is  re- 
peated time  and  time  again,  and  the  slide  becomes  very  sleek. 

''Now,  when  you  want  to  near  these  slides  to  set  a  trap  you 
must  go  to  them  in  a  boat.  I  generally  attach  my  chain  of  traps 
to  poles  ten  to  fifteen  feet  long  and  set  the  traps  under  four  to 
six  inches  of  water.    I  always  turn  the  two  springs  of  the  traps 


360         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


towards  the  center  and  never  leave  them  sticking  out.  The 
trap  will  work  just  as  well.  The  end  of  the  poles  which  has  the 
chain  attached  is  stuck  into  the  river  bed  for  about  two  or  three 
inches  to  hold  it  securely,  and  the  other  end  I  attach  to  a  willow 
or  limb  of  tree.  At  other  times  I  use  the  limb  of  a  tree  or  a 
small  tree  itself,  willow,  etc.,  as  a  spring-pole  to  pull  the  animal 
out  of  the  water  if  captured.  The  trap  is  securely  covered  up 
with  a  thin  layer  of  dirt,  and  always  have  leaves,  cotton  or  similar 
matter  under  the  pan.  If  you  disturb  the  river  bottom  always 
arrange  to  the  natural  state  but  never  get  out  of  the  boat.  In  case 
I  have  no  boat  and  am  compelled  to  set  trap  this  way  by  wading 
into  the  water,  I  am  always  careful  to  obliterate  my  tracks  and 


TRAPPING  THROUGH  THE  ICE. 


A  well-tried  arrangement  for  trapping  through  the  ice.  Cover  trap 
and  chain  with  moss,  evergreens  and  similar  light  vegetation.  The  string 
or  wire  should  be  loosely  wound  around  the  chain.  Experienced  trappers 
usually  have  two  or  three  traps  set  about  the  hole,  all  attached  to  the 
same  pole.    Especially  good  for  the  otter,  beaver  and  other  aquatic  animals. 

leave  the  surroundings  in  as  natural  state  as  possible  and  splash 
water  from  a  distance  over  places  that  I  disturb  if  out  of  the 
water. 

"In  visiting  the  traps  never  go  close  to  them  unless  you  want 
to  remove  them. 

'Tf  the  otter  caught  is  still  alive,  take  a  stick  and  with  a  smart 
blow  hit  across  the  head.  One  blow  is  generally  sufficient.  Never 
hit  upon  the  body  as  it  will  hurt  the  skin.  When  the  otter  is 
dead  take  him  in  deep  water  and  wash  the  fur  so  that  the  animal 
is  thoroughly  clean.    Lay  body  belly  upwards,  and  with  a  sharp 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide,  361 


knife  split  from  point  of  rear  foot  or  heel  to  tail,  skin  out  the 
hind  legs  and  strip  the  bone  out  of  tail  or  cut  tail  open  and  skin 
out — whichever  way  suits  me  best.  Then  cut  around  forelegs 
and  if  convenient  hang  body  four  to  six  feet  above  the  ground 
and  pull  skin  over  body.  I  then  begin  to  place  the  skin  on  a 
proper  sized  stretcher,  about  five  feet  long,  ten  inches  wide  on 
one  end  to  about  seven  inches  on  the  other.  The  upper  portion 
of  the  stretcher,  however,  is  tapered  to  fit  the  head  of  the  skin. 
I  then  take  a  drawing  knife  or  steel  case  knife,  and  scrape  the 
flesh  and  fat  off  and  wash  the  skin  with  warm  water  and  soap. 
The  fur  part  must  always  be  next  to  the  stretcher.  After  the 
skin  is  thoroughly  washed  and  free  from  meat  and  fat,  I  pro- 
ceed to  put  it  on  the  regular  stretcher  to  dry.  The  latter  is  made 
out  of  three  pieces,  the  middle  one  being  a  wedge.  Stretch  the 
skin  as  long  as  you  possibly  can,  but  do  not  overstretch  it  nor 
make  it  too  narrow.  The  end  and  tail  should  be  securely  tacked 
on  the  board.  After  the  hide  is  on  the  stretcher,  I  hang  same, 
head  portion  uppermost,  in  some  shady  place  to  dry.  Never 
use  a  single  board  stretcher  for  otter  as  the  skin  will  shrink  so 
much  that  you  will  be  unable  to  get  the  board  out.  The  follow- 
ing is  the  size  of  stretcher  I  make  and  how  to  use  it. 

"Take  a  board  five  to  six  feet  long,  three-quarter  inch  thick 
and  eight  inches  wide.  Both  sides  must  be  planed  smooth  and 
then  shape  board  so  that  it  will  be  six  to  seven  inches  wide  on 
furthest  point  down  to  four  inches  wide  on  other  end.  Then  I 
taper  the  head  portion  of  the  stretcher  to  about  five  inches  to  one 
and  one-half  inch  or  two  inches.  After  smoothing  the  edges  to 
the  required  thickness  and  slanting,  I  proceed  to  rip  the  board 
in  center  so  that  it  will  make  two  pieces  of  exact  width.  Then  I 
prepare  a  wedge  equal  length  of  stretcher,  two  by  one  and  one- 
half  inches  wide.  I  then  proceed  to  place  the  first  two  pieces 
within  the  skin  and  pull  the  skin  tightly  upon  it.  Also  fasten  the 
skin  at  a  few  places  with  four-penny  nails.  I  am  very  careful 
to  have  the  belly  portion  in  the  center  of  the  wedge.  Then  I 
proceed  to  insert  the  wedge  and  give  the  skin  the  proper  shape 
and  stretch.  Pine  or  basswood  boards  are  the  best  to  use,  and 
the  time  to  trap  is  from  November  to  the  first  of  April.  Otter, 
during  the  month  of  February,  are  the  best." 

Trapping  the  Otter. 

Earl  Mooney,  a  trapper  living  in  Illinois,  gives  us  the  follow- 
ing interesting  article  on  how  he  caught  his  first  otter : 

''One  day  in  February,  about  three  years  ago,  I  was  going 
down  the  river  in  my  boat.  I  was  looking  over  my  traps  and 
watching  for  signs  of  game.    I  saw  where  an  otter  had  been 


362 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


sliding  down  a  small  maple  pole,  which  was  lying  partly  in  the 
water  and  partly  out.  I  set  a  No.  3  trap  where  he  had  been 
coming  out  of  the  water,  being  very  careful  not  to  disturb  any- 
thing or  leave  any  scent  behind.  Three  days  after  I  had  set  my 
trap  I  caught  my  otter.  I  had  caught  him  by  the  left  hind  leg, 
pretty  well  up.  I  killed  him  with  a  small  stick,  hardly  big 
enough,  I  thought,  to  kill  him,  but  I  found  out  my  mistake,  for 
he  was  very  easy  to  kill.  I  skinned  him,  and  sold  his  hide  for 
ten  dollars.'' 

Trapping  the  Otter. 

The  otter  is  a  wary  animal  and  the  trap  should  be  carefully 
secreted  and  placed  on  the  side  of  the  runway  or  otter  slide  at  the 
highest  point ;  the  aim  being  to  catch  the  animal  by  the  legs  which 
are  located  on  the  side  of  the  animal,  and  are  very  short.  A 


SLIDING  WIRE  OR  ROPE. 

Take  a  telegraph  wire  (some  take  a  %-inch  rope),  fasten  to  some  heavy 
object,  which  sink  15  to  25  feet  from  shore  in  deep  water.  Pass  the  other 
end  through  ring-  on  trap  and  fasten  to  some  tree  or  stake.  The  steel  trap 
should  be  set  at  the  edge  of  the  shore  or  under  water.  Cover  trap  in  the 
usual  way.    Good  for  otter,  beaver,  mink,  etc. 

small  cavity  should  be  made  in  the  earth,  and  the  trap  inserted 
so  as  to  be  about  level  with  the  path  under  the  pan.  Around 
the  jaws  and  springs  make  a  light  packing  of  leaves  or  moss; 
cover  the  trap  carefully  with  rotten  wood  pulverized  very  fine, 
brush  off  smooth  to  give  it  a  natural  appearance.  Cut  a  small 
tree  the  size  of  the  chain  ring ;  set  upright  near  the  path  to  guide 
the  game  into  the  trap,  fastening  it  and  securing  the  trap  and  game 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


363 


by  tying  the  top  to  some  other  tree  and  the  chain  can  be  sHpped 
on  and  fastened  with  a  wedge  at  the  other  end.  Then  take  a  dry 
brush  and  drop  in  such  a  way  as  to  turn  the  game  towards  the 
trap,  then  thoroughly  drench  the  surroundings  with  water.  Pour 
a  few  drops  of  the  oil  of  decomposed  trout  or  minnows  on  a 
piece  of  wood  and  drop  near  the  trap  as  a  draw  to  attract  the 
animal.  The  musk  of  the  otter  may  be  used  in  conjunction,  or 
alone,  for  the  same  purpose.  Keep  as  far  away  from  the  trap 
as  possible  in  making  the  rounds. 

Another  way :  Set  the  trap  close  to  the  land  where  the  otter 
comes  out  of  the  water  to  go  on  the  slide.  Place  the  trap  about 
three  inches  under  water  and  a  little  on  one  side  of  the  path  so 
that  the  pan  is  three  inches  from  the  middle  of  the  path.  Fasten 
the  chain  ring  of  the  trap  to  a  pole  fifteen  feet  long,  about  one 
and  one-half  inches  through,  then  fasten  a  stone  of  about  ten 
pounds  weight  to  the  chain  close  to  the  pole  for  an  anchor.  When 
the  animal  is  caught  he  makes  for  deep  water,  the  stone  drags 
him  to  the  bottom  and  he  is  drowned.  In  case  the  water  is  not 
deep  enough  to  set  the  right  depth,  dig  the  earth  away  until  it 
is.  If  the  water  is  too  deep  fill  in  under  the  trap.  Always  set 
the  trap  level.  The  anchor  stone  and  pole  must  be  sunk  under- 
neath water. 

Albert  Rosenbuspi, 
Turtle  Lake,  Wis. 

Trapping  the  Otter. 

W.  H.  Smart,  Crete,  Nebraska,  gives  his  ideas  as  to  trapping 
otter  in  the  following  words : 

''The  proper  place  to  set  a  steel  trap  is  where  the  animal  comes 
out  of  the  water.  They  always  leave  a  trail  which  any  trapper 
with  experience  can  locate.  After  setting  the  trap,  cover  with 
mud  or  leaves  and  leave  the  surroundings  as  natural  as  possible. 
I  use  the  drowning  pole  in  connection  with  the  above  set. 

Another  way  is  to  find  a  log  in  the  water,  into  which  cut  a 
deep  niche  and  set  the  trap.  Cover  trap  with  mud  and  leaves  and 
fine  chips  of  wood;  all  suspicious  articles  are  to  be  removed  and 
the  place  left  in  its  natural  condition.  The  above  setting  is  of 
course  slightly  under  water.  Before  leaving  the  place  I  sprinkle 
a  few  drops  of  musk  of  skunk  on  the  log.  At  times  I  set  the 
trap  at  the  bottom  of  the  river  or  lake  and  to  the  pan  of  the 
trap  I  tie  a  dead  fish.  Make  the  fish  look  natural  and  so  that 
the  otter  will  observe  it  while  swimming  past  the  locality  where 
the  trap  is  set. 

Trapping  the  Otter. 

Southern  methods  as  used  by  R.  W.  Riggs  in  the  swamps 


364 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


of  Louisiana :    The  bait  used  and  the  way  to  set  traps : 

'Tor  Bait:  The  muskbags  of  a  skunk  put  in  a  Httle  alcohol 
to  keep  it.  I  use  the  bait  only  where  otter  could  or  do  come 
out  on  logs,  with  one  end  in  the  water.  Cut  a  place  in  the  end 
of  the  log  for  your  trap,  three  inches  under  water.  Drop  some 
of  the  bait  on  top  of  the  log  a  foot  from  the  trap.    My  best  set  is 


TRAPPING  THROUGH  THE  ICE. 

without  bait  where  they  come  out  of  the  water.  Otters  come  out 
in  many  places,  but  they  have  some  places  they  always  come  out 
at  year  after  year.  These  are  the  places  I  set  my  traps.  I  never 
set  in  their  slides  or  at  the  top  of  them.  I  make  only  a  water  set. 
I  use  the  No.  3  Newhouse  trap  and  use  two  or  more  to  make  a 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  365 


set.  I  want  to  catch  them  in  two  traps  and  then  they  never  cut 
out  with  me. 

''To  Set  the  Traps :  Cut  a  stick  with  a  hook  on  it.  Have  the 
stick  just  large  enough  to  go  through  the  rings  on  the  trap  chains. 
Now  wade  in  the  water  above  or  below  where  you  are  going  to 
make  the  set,  and  do  all  of  your  work  on  the  water  side.  Set 
your  traps  in  three  or  four  inches  of  water.  If  the  space  will 
take  two,  three  or  four  traps,  put  them  in.  Put  three  traps  to  a 
stake  and  drive  your  stake  into  the  mud  out  of  sight.  Cover 
traps  with  leaves  and  mud  that  you  get  from  under  the  water. 
Do  not  put  on  anything  that  will  float  on  top  of  the  water.  Leave 
everything  in  under  the  water  in  front  of  the  set,  looking  as  it 
was  as  much  as  possible.  Then  throw  water  on  everything  near 
you  and  your  set  is  O.  K.  If  you  do  not  get  him  in  a  night  or 
two,  do  not  get  discouraged.  They  may  be  off  on  a  trip.  That 
in  Louisiana  will  take  them  about  nine  days  on  an  average  to 
make.  But  keep  away  from  in  front  of  your  sets,  and  you  will 
get  him  and  maybe  two  of  them  if  the  space  is  large  enough  for 
them  to  come  in  together  and  you  use  plenty  of  traps.'' 

Trapping  the  Otter. 

Mr.  O.  G.  Wells,  formerly  a  Minnesota  trapper,  now  located 
m  Canada,  writes  us  as  follows :  ''The  best  deep  water  set  for 
otter  that  I  know  of,  is  to  take  a  live  crawfish,  tie  a  coarse  thread 
to  each  arm  close  to  its  body  but  not  in  the  joint.  Tie  both  threads 
together  under  its  body,  then  fasten  to  pan  of  trap,  permitting  the 
fish  to  move  about,  but  not  to  get  off  the  pan.  Now  take  a  forked 
stick  or  pole,  slip  spring  of  trap  under  fork,  let  cross  bar  of  trap 
rest  on  end  of  fork;  now  lower  trap  to  bottom  of  water  and 
remove  the  pole.  The  short  chain  of  the  trap  should  be  attached 
to  some  object  of  sufficient  weight,  either  a  stone  or  piece  of  iron. 
Wide  jaw  traps  are  the  best  for  this  purpose,  as  occasionally  the 
otter  is  caught  by  the  head. 

"Crawfish  is  the  favorite  food  for  otter,  raccoon  and  fish  and 
quite  often  fish  will  bother  the  set  and  spring  the  trap.  Should 
you  find  that  fish  disturb  this  set,  then  make  another  set,  using 
the  same  kind  of  trap  and  place  this  near  by.  This  method  has 
been  very  successful,  and  I  know  positively  that  mink,  otter  and 
raccoon  frequently  visit  these  sets  as  I  have  seen  their  droppings 
in  the  immediate  vicinity.  When  the  otter  is  in  search  of  food 
he  goes  to  the  bottom  of  the  river  and  moves  slowly,  keeping  a 
sharp  lookout  for  food.  Their  movements  are  sometimes  so  slow 
and  noiseless,  that  a  school  of  minnows  remains  undisturbed.  The 
otter  can  see  everything  around  him,  but  while  under  the  water 
is  unable  to  smell,  consequently  sets  of  this  kind  are  not  suspicious 


366         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


and  here  is  where  the  secret  of  success  Hes  in  my  deep  water  set. 
Bait  as  used  in  the  above  must  be  kept  aUve. 

''My  other  method  of  capturing  otter  in  deep  water  is  as  fol- 
lows :  ''I  choose  their  playground  and  place  my  trap  in  a  con- 
venient location.  Upon  the  pan  I  place  a  bright,  mirror-like 
object,  either  of  gold  or  silver.  This  glistening  object  attracts 
the  otter ;  he  will  play  in  the  immediate  vicinity  and  will  dive 
for  the  object  and  with  one  of  his  feet  spring  the  trap  and  be 
captured.'' 

Trapping  the  Otter. 

Undoubtedly  the  otter  is  the  hardest  water  animal  to  trap  that 
we  faithful  trappers  have  to  contend  with,  for  in  addition  to  a 
sagacity  and  cunning  second  to  no  other  animal,  he  is  of  a  roving 
habit. 

The  male  otter,  in  particular,  has  no  fixed  home  except  for  a 
short  time  in  the  breeding  season,  but  meanders  aimlessly  from 
one  lake,  swamp  or  stream  to  another,  pausing  for  a  short  time 
whenever  he  finds  comfortable  quarters  and  ample  diet,  then 
pushing  on  again  at  his  pleasure  for  ''pastures  new always  idle 
and  inconsiderate  of  the  rights  of  others — in  a  word,  he  is  the 
veritable  "tramp''  of  the  fur  bearing  kingdom.  The  female  is 
less  of  a  wandering  disposition,  usually  remaining  with  the  young 
until  the  arrival  of  another  mating  season;  the  trapper  who 
chances  upon  a  domestic  circle  of  this  kind  has  a  good  thing  in 
store  if  he  but  manages  rightly.  But  he  must  be  cautious,  for  the 
otter's  eye  is  sharp  and  his  nose  surprisingly  quick  to  catch  the 
dreaded  man  scent.  Its  head  is  broad  and  flat,  with  very  small 
ears  set  far  apart.  Its  legs  are  hard,  short  with  feet  webbed,  and 
are  apparently  set  upon  its  side,  which  gives  it  an  awkward  and 
waddling  appearance  when  travelling  on  land,  which  they  do 
very  little  except  when  travelling  from  one  water  system  to 
another.  When  there  is  a  good  tracking  snow,  these  land  trips 
afiford  the  trapper  a  good  opportunity  to  learn  their  crossings, 
and  to  know  just  which  lakes  or  streams  they  are  using.  Watch 
close  to  see  where  they  leave  one  stream  and  where  they  enter 
another  for  there  is  a  good  place  for  your  trap.  Although  a 
great  rover,  an  otter  will  seem  to  have  a  certain  beat,  miles  m 
extent,  which  he  covers  with  more  or  less  regularity,  returning 
time  after  time  to  the  same  spot  unless  trapped. 

It  would  be  useless  to  try  to  give  all  the  successful  ways  of 
trapping  the  otter,  for  they  are  as  many  as  the  dififerent  circum- 
stances under  which  they  are  m.et. 

A  good  method  of  setting  for  otter,  whether  there  be  one 
about  or  a  dozen,  is  to  find  an  old  log  crosswise  a  narrow  stream 
about  four  or  five  inches  under  water,  then  drive  old  stakes  and 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


367 


brush,  taken  from  the  bottom  of  the  stream,  along  beside  it  so 
as  to  completely  barricade  the  stream  except  for  a  space  of  about 
six  inches  at  the  center,  where  a  No.  3  or  4  Newhouse  trap  should 
be  placed,  the  log  having  been  flattened  sufficiently  to  afford  it  a 
secure  resting  place.  Swamp  grass  or  moss  caught  among  the 
stakes  and  brush  and  allowed  to  float  over  the  trap  will  usually 
be  a  sufficient  covering.  It  would  be  well  to  prepare  the  places 
several  months  before  the  trapping  season.  Whenever  possible 
make  your  sets  by  deep,  dark  pools,  and  arrange  by  means  of 
the  sliding  pole  to  usher  your  victim  under  water  immediately. 
If  you  have  left  a  few  stubs  along  the  pole,  so  that  the  ring  can- 
not slip  back  after  passing  over  them,  and  firmly  secure  it  to  the 
bottom  or  under  some  rock  or  root,  he  will  soon  drown,  causing 
very  little  disturbance. 

If  your  set  is  so  situated  that  it  is  inconvenient  to  use  the  slid- 
ing pole,  drive  a  good  solid  stake  beneath  the  surface  of  the 
water,  and  loop  your  chain  around  the  stake.  Last,  but  not  least, 
get  an  old  water-soaked  pole  from  the  bottom  of  the  stream,  and 
lay  across  the  trap  chain,  between  the  stake  and  trap.  He  will 
get  the  trap  chain  entangled  around  the  pole  and  stake,  which  will 
be  a  great  help  in  preventing  him  from  digging  or  pulling  out  the 
stake. 

If  you  have  used  a  good  heavy  trap,  and  have  plenty  of  water 
he  will  drown,  which  is  always  desirable,  for  one  animal  spend- 
ing several  hours  struggling  to  escape  from  a  trap  will  do  more 
to  create  alarm  among  its  brethren,  whether  it  free  itself  or  not, 
than  will  half  a  dozen  properly  disposed  of.  The  great  difficulty 
in  trapping  otter  arises  from  the  fact  that  he  is  so  long  in  body 
and  so  short  in  the  legs,  and  travels  by  sliding  much  of  the  time, 
instead  of  walking,  that  he  is  likely  to  spring  the  trap  with  his 
body,  or  else  slide  over  without  springing  the  trap. 

A  very  good  set  for  the  otter  is  where  they  leave  the  stream 
to  go  around  an  obstruction,  such  as  a  mill-dam  or  bridge,  or 
where  they  leave  one  stream  to  cross  over  to  another.  A  trap 
properly  set  at  a  place  of  this  kind  is  about  sure  to  catch,  as  an 
otter  always  lands  feet  first.  In  winter,  they  will  be  found 
around  falls,  rapids,  airholes,  and  spring  water  where  the  open 
water  affords  them  a  chance  to  fish.  If  you  know  of  such  places 
to  be  much  used,  place  several  traps  around  it,  just  when  a 
storm  is  coming  up,  and  if  the  otter  does  not  get  along  until  the} 
are  covered  with  snow,  you  stand  a  good  chance  of  getting  one. 
A  few  of  the  young  and  less  cunning  may  be  taken  at  airholes 
by  putting  a  trap  in  the  holes,  resting  it  on  stakes  driven  into 
the  bottom ;  but  very  few  of  the  old  fellows  will  be  fooled  in  this 
way.    Every  one  knows  their  habit  of  making  slides.    If  you 


368         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


attempt  to  trap  them  on  these,  find  where  they  leave  the  water. 
Fish  is  the  best  bait  but  get  along  without  bait  if  possible,  and 
in  every  and  all  cases  use  the  utmost  caution. 

A  good  size  otter  will  weigh  twenty  pounds  or  a  little  better ; 
will  be  all  of  four  feet  in  length  from  tip  to  tip,  will  stretch  six 
inches  in  width  at  the  neck  and  about  nine  at  the  root  of  the  tail, 
and  will  stretch  about  five  feet  five  inches  in  length.  They  are 
cased  about  the  same  as  a  mink  with  the  exception  of  the  tail, 
which  is  split  the  entire  length,  and  is  stretched  out  in  the  shape 
of  the  letter  V,  being  about  two-thirds  of  the  width  of  the  body 
at  the  root  of  the  tail,  which  will  be  a  little  better  than  a  foot  and 
a  half  in  length  when  stretched. 

A  good  prime  northern  otter  of  the  above  description  is  worth 
in  the  neighborhood  of  twenty  dollars,  so  you  see,  brother 
trappers,  the  otter  is  a  valuable  piece  of  fur,  but  do  not  be  in  a 
hurry  to  count  your  money.  Better  wait  until  you  have  caught 
your  game.  Ever  remember  the  word  '^caution''  and  success  will 
crown  your  efforts. 

H.    E.  DiLLE, 

Ridgeway,  Ohio. 


Miscellaneous  Articles. 

From  Experienced 

Hunters  and  Trappers. 
Hunting  and  Trapping. 

WOLVES. 

Mr.  Phillips,  a  Minnesota  trapper,  writes:  "I  set  No.  3  steel 
traps  for  wolves  in  furrows  about  one  and  one-half  foot  apart, 
and  place  an  eight  to  ten  inch  in  diameter  short  log  between 
traps,  so  that  the  wolf  when  stepping  over  the  logs  will  step  into 
the  trap.  The  reason  of  my  placing  the  traps  in  the  furrow  was 
because  I  found  his  tracks  there,  also  that  of  the  wild  cat,  re- 
peatedly. 

Hunting  and  Trapping. 

^  RACCOON. 

In  trapping  for  raccoon,  I  find  the  place  where  he  frequents 
and  attract  by  tying  a  piece  of  bright  shining  tin  upon  pan  of 
steel  trap,  and  set  two  inches  below  clear  water  in  some  lake  or 
stream.  The  coon  will  try  to  examine  the  shining  object  with 
his  paw,  and  if  trap  is  lightly  set,  will  spring  it  and  be  captured." 

RACCOON. 

'Tor  the  raccoon  I  take  a  brightly  polished  tin  can  and  hang 
it  on  some  tree  or  stake  about  twenty  inches  high.  On  the 
bottom,  12  inches  from  the  stake  or  tree  I  set  my  steel  trap, 
taking  particular  pains  to  set  it  right,  and  cover  every  part  of 
the  trap  excepting  the  pan,  on  to  which  I  tie  a  small  piece  of 
bright  red  flannel.  I  also  hang  some  kind  of  a  bait,  either 
rabbit  or  chicken,  just  below  the  can  on  the  tree  or  stake.  The 
raccoon  will  be  attracted  by  the  can  and  place  his  paw  on  the 
flannel  and  be  captured.  Either  the  tin  can  or  the  bait  is  not 
necessary,  but  I  generally  use  the  two  and  have  better  luck. 

MINK. 

"For  mink,  if  trapping  about  muskrat  houses,  I  generally  cut 
a  hole  in  the  house  and  set  the  steel  trap  about  four  or  five  inches 
from  the  hole.  Cover  the  trap  up  and  place  a  piece  of  muskrat 
just  at  the  hole.  At  other  times  I  set  a  steel  trap  on  the  river 
bank  and  use  a  piece  of  muskrat  for  bait. 

Chas  Herd, 

Henning,  Minn. 

Hunting  and  Trapping. 

SKUNK. 

"For  skunk  I  use  No.  steel  trap,  and  for  a  sure  catch  place 
the  trap  within  the  hole  or  den,  but  on  one  side  and  not  in  centre, 


370 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


as  some  do.  I  find  the  skunk  along  river  banks,  lake  shores,  also 
in  the  hills  where  the  grass  and  weeds  are  plentiful  and  high. 
Cover  the  trap  with  grass,  then  a  thin  layer  of  dirt.  To  set  traps 
on  their  paths,  place  some  soft  material  under  the  pan  and  a 
small  quantity  of  grass  above  the  trap,  then  cover  slightly  with 
snow.  Drive  a  twenty  to  twenty-five  inch  long  stick  into  the 
ground,  to  which  attach  piece  of  rabbit  or  chicken,  about  fifteen 
inches  up.    Attach  some  kind  of  clog  or  brush  to  end  chain.'' 

MINK. 

'T  have  caught  many  minks  in  my  experience,  but  in  recent 
years  have  used  the  Stop  Thief  Trap  entirely.  I  proceed  to 
places  where  mink  are,  generally  along  river  banks  and  ponds, 
and  at  or  about  places  where  the  muskrat  lives.  In  setting  Stop 
Thief  Traps  for  mink  dig  a  hole  in  the  bank  eight  inches,  and 
put  a  piece  of  a  fish  in  the  hole ;  set  the  trap  at  the  opening,  and 
cover  traps  lightly  with  grass,  so  that  it  will  look  natural.  I 
caught  forty-eight  minks  this  way  in  eight  Stop  Thief  traps  in 
one  month.  I  consider  fish  the  best  bait  and  Stop  Thief  Traps 
the  best  for  minks.'' 

Mr.  Grisw^old,. 

Milford,  la. 

Hunting  and  Trapping. 

MINK. 

''This  is  the  way  I  catch  mink  successfully.  Set  the  trap  at 
the  mouth  of  their  holes,  and  cover  smoothly  with  light  earth, 
but  if  the  ground  is  frozen  then  cover  with  rotten  grass.  If 
their  holes  cannot  be  found,  select  a  place  where  the  mink  fre- 
quents and  make  a  barricade  around  your  trap.  Leave  an  en- 
trance for  the  mink  to  pass.  Put  your  trap  in  the  entrance.  Bait 
in  the  back  so  that  the  mink  has  to  put  his  feet  in  before  he  can 
get  at  the  bait. 

SKUNK. 

"Skunk  can  be  taken  in  the  same  way  as  the  mink,  either 
by  setting  the  trap  at  the  mouth  of  their  holes  or  by  a  barricade 
as  commended  for  minks. 

MUSKRATS. 

''A  funny  way  to  trap  muskrats  is  to  take  a  plank,  two  by 
four,  and  chisel  a  den  out,  according  to  the  size  of  a  small  trap 
(No.  I  is  the  proper  one  to  use),  and  place  the  trap  securel> 
in  the  excavation,  covering  both  the  trap  and  plank  with  light 
earth.  Then  place  the  plank  across  the  stream  where  the  rats 
come.  They  love  to  run  over  the  plank,  and  on  being  caught 
plunge  headlong  into  the  water  and  drown  in  a  few  minutes, 
SO  that  they  will  have  no  time  to  bruise  or  twist  their  legs. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


371 


WILD  CAT. 

"Wild  cat  are  taken  in  the  same  way  as  raccoons,  by  baiting 
with  meat  and  covering  the  trap  smoothly  over.  The  best  way 
is  to  find  a  place  where  they  have  killed  some  kind  of  game  and 
have  left  a  part  of  the  flesh  for  a  second  meal.  Set  your  trap 
there  and  you  will  be  sure  of  a  visit. 

FISHERS. 

'Tishers  are  taken  in  traps  with  the  same  method  employed 
in  capturing  mink  and  marten.  However,  the  barricade  around 
the  trap  should  be  stronger  and  the  entrance  larger,  and  baited 
as  for  mink. 

FOX. 

"One  of  the  most  successful  methods  of  catching  the  fox  is 
the  following:  To  prevent  the  smell  of  iron  from  alarming 
the  game,  the  trap  should  be  smeared  with  blood,  which  can  best 
be  done  by  holding  it  under  some  bleeding  animal  and  allowing  it 
to  dry.  It  should  be  set  near  their  haunts.  A  hill  of  ashes,  chaff 
or  light  earth  should  conceal  the  trap  and  it  should  be  fastened 
to  a  clog  of  six  to  eight  pounds.  Wool,  moss,  leaves,  or  some 
soft  substance  should  be  slightly  packed  around  the  pan.  The 
surface  of  the  earth  in  the  neighborhood  should  be  brushed  with 
some  article,  so  that  everything  seems  natural.  Small  pieces  of 
meat  should  be  scattered  around  and  over  the  bed  of  the  trap. 
Care  should  be  taken  to  erase  all  footprints,  so  as  to  make  allur- 
ment  certain." 

"Years  of  experience  in  hunting  and  trapping,  not  only  in 
Massachusetts,  Maine  and  in  Canada,  but  elsewhere,  and  the 
fact  of  my  realizing  many  thousand  dollars  for  raw  skins  taken 
off  by  myself,  puts  me  in  a  position  to  intelligently  advise  my 
brother  trappers  of  one  of  the  secrets  of  my  success. 

"Every  trapper  knows  that  most  animals  shun  the  smell  of 
iron ;  to  overcome  this,  traps  are  smoked,  washed  in  weak  solu- 
tion of  lye,  greased,  also  painted  with  a  preparation  of  fat  and 
blood.  This  is  all  good,  but  what  I  consider  better  is  that  the  steel 
or  iron  part  should  be  wrapped  as  much  as  possible  with  withes 
(removed  from  the  bark  of  tree;  it  makes  no  difference  from 
what  kind  of  tree).  I  use  Newhouse  traps.  I  consider  them 
the  best  traps  for  all-around  trapping.  Last  year  I  bought  some 
Stop  Thief  traps ;  these  I  also  wrapped  about  with  withes,  and  I 
was  surprised  at  the  success.  Of  course,  the  latter  traps  were 
used  entirely  for  mink  and  marten,  and  only  where  the  New- 
house  traps  could  not  be  used  advantageously. 

"M.  A.  O," 


372         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


Hunting  and  Trapping. 

RACCOON. 

''A  good  way  is  to  take  a  steel  trap,  size  No.  2  or  3,  and 
set  it  on  the  edge  of  the  water  about  one  and  one-half  inches 
below  the  surface.  Stake  the  chain  carefully,  hang  any  kind  of 
b^it,  such  as  fish,  part  of  a  bird,  squirrel  or  rabbit  over  the  foot 
plate  of  the  trap  about  two  feet  high.  When  the  raccoon  sees 
the  bait  he  will  jump  for  it  and  when  he  comes  down  will  in- 
variably get  his  paws  in  the  trap.  The  bait  can  be  scented  with 
a  few  drops  of  Oil  of  Anise,  which  can  be  procured  at  the  drug 
store. 


HORSESHOE  NAIL  TRAP. 

Bore  a  2  or  3 -inch  hole  in  a  thick  plank  and  drive  slantingly  3  to  5 
horsehoe  nails.  Set  in  a  convenient  place  or  in  front  of  some  opening  that 
mink,  marten,  weasel  or  similar  animals  are  known  to  pass  through.  The 
animal  will  put  his  head  past  the  nail  points  and  not  being  able  to  pass 
clear  through,  and  unable  to  return,  becomes  a  victim. 

MINK. 

"Mink  frequent  the  banks  of  streams,  ponds  and  lakes,  and 
can  be  caught  in  almost  any  appropriate  trap — size  No.  is 
used  the  most.  When  used  in  the  water  traps  should  be  placed 
in  shallow  places  where  the  water  is  from  one  to  two  inches  deep. 
The  bait  should  be  a  piece  of  bird  or  rabbit  placed  about  two 
and  one-half  feet  above  the  trap  on  the  end  of  a  stick,  or  so  that 
the  mink  is  compelled  to  stand  up  on  its  hind  legs  or  jump  up- 
wards to  get  the  bait.    It  cannot  accomplish  this  without  tread- 


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373 


ing  on  the  pan  of  the  trap  and  thereby  being  caught.  Traps 
may  be  set  at  intervals  along  the  bank  of  a  stream  and  about 
two  feet  from  the  water,  properly  concealed  and  .baited  with  a 
piece  of  meat,  and  a  trail  made  by  dragging  a  piece  of  meat,  or 
flesh  of  the  muskrat  well  scented  with  oil  of  rhodium  between 
the  traps,  and  any  mink  that  crosses  this  line  or  trail  will  follow 
it  to  one  of  the  traps. 

SKUNK. 

'^Skunk  are  not  cunning  and  are  easily  caught  in  a  steel  trap — 
size  No.  or  2  are  mostly  used.  The  box  traps  are  not  so  ef- 
fective on  account  of  the  stench  which  such  traps  are  likely  to  get 
and  retain  after  being  used  for  this  purpose.  The  steel  trap, 
baited  with  a  few  small  pieces  of  meat,  fowl  or  dead  mice 
around  the  pan  of  the  trap  is  sure  to  be  affective.  A  good  way 
to  avoid  the  awful  smell  that  it  throws  is  to  approach  as  stealthily 
as  possible  and  deal  a  blow  upon  the  backbone  near  the  tail, 
which  will  produce  paralysis  of  the  parts,  and  prevent  the 
animal  using  his  offensive  powers. 

FOX. 

''The  best  way  to  trap  fox  is  to  make  a  bed  about  three  feet 
in  diameter  of  most  any  kind  of  chaff.  Make  it  deep  enough  to 
cover  the  trap,  size  No.  2  is  mostly  used,  and  have  some  under 
the  trap  to  keep  it  off  the  ground  or  snow.  Make  it  smooth  and 
level;  bait  with  a  piece  of  fowl  on  the  inside  of  jaws  of  trap; 
also  place  some  bait  around  outside  of  bed.  Bait  should  be 
scented  with  oil  of  anise  and  put  some  on  pan  of  traps.  This 
will  induce  the  fox  to  come  up  to  the  bed,  and  in  seeking  the 
attractive  odor  he  will  commence  to  paw  and  will  step  into  the 
trap  and  get  caught.  It  is  important  that  the  trapper  in  setting 
his  traps  for  fox  should  use  buckskin  or  fur  gloves  so  that  the 
traps  will  be  free  from  human  odor.  A  piece  of  fresh  meat 
dragged  along  the  ground  will  attract  the  animal  from  a  great 
distance. 

WOLVES. 

The  wolf  can  be  trapped  in  the  same  way  as  the  fox,  being 
careful  to  cover  traps  in  both  cases. 

Ray  Birdsell^ 

Ossian,  Iowa. 

Hunting  and  Trapping. 

RACCOON. 

Mr.  O.  G.  Wells,  Okotoks,  Canada,  states  that  he  has  been 
very  successful  in  capturing  raccoon.  He  attaches  a  live  craw- 
fish to  pan  of  proper  sized  trap  so  that  the  fish  will  be  able  to 


374         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


move  on  the  pan,  but  not  get  off.  Set  the  trap  near  the  shore 
and  if  water  is  not  deep  enough,  scoop  out  a  hole  into  which 
set  the  trap.  Arrange  the  crawfish  so  as  to  be  partly  under  the 
water.  When  Mr.  Raccoon  is  in  search  of  food  he  usually 
travels  along  the  shores  of  rivers  or  lakes,  and  in  passing  by 
one  of  these  sets  is  quick  to  see  the  crawfish  and  as  this  is  one  of 
his  favorite  foods,  he  will  readily  reach  out  for  it  and  in  so  doing 
springs  the  trap  and  becomes  the  victim. 


SNARE  SET. 


The  above  illustration  shows  a  snare  properly  arranged.  Many  wolves 
and  foxes  have  been  captured  by  this  arrangement.  The  victim  will  en- 
deavor to  get  away,  and,  in  so  doing,  throw  the  weight  off  the  scantling; 
the  latter  pulls  him  off  his  legs.  The  wire  should  be  strong  and  the  weight 
one-quarter  to  one-third  heavier  than  the  animal.  A  No.  2  Newhouse  trap 
set  at  the  opening  may  be  an  additional  assurance  of  security  and  capture. 

OTTER. 

Take  a  tunnel  set  net  twelve  to  fourteen  feet  long,  with  wings 
angling  forward  according  to  width  of  river  in  which  net  is  used. 
The  largest  hoop  should  be  14  inches  and  the  smallest  five  to  six 
inches.  The  meshes  at  the  smaller  end  should  be  one  to  one  and 
one-fourth  inches  and  those  of  the  wings  one  and  one-half  to  two 


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375 


inches.  The  net  should  be  made  of  coarse,  strong  twine.  Set 
tunnel  of  net  in  channel  of  stream,  with  wings  apart,  just  as  you 
would  for  fish.  Place  weight  at  small  end  of  net.  Keep  all  parts 
of  net  below  the  water.  As  the  otter  travels  up  or  down  stream 
quite  regularly,  should  he  chance  to  come  the  right  way  he  is 
bound  to  get  into  the  net  and  not  being  able  to  get  out  becomes 
a  ready  victim. 

THE  FISHER. 

My  method  for  trapping  fisher  is  as  follows :  ''Take  a  piece  of 
fresh  meat  pork,  beef,  venison  or  chicken,  roast  it  over  an  open 
fire  until  about  half  done;  then  smear  or  dip  into  pure  honey. 
When  cold,  give  it  another  coat  of  honey;  tie  a  rope  to  it  and 
drag  it  along  the  ground  where  you  have  reason  to  believe  that 
fisher  are  likely  to  travel.  Any  fisher  that  comes  across  this  path 
will  follow  it.  It  is  preferable  to  have  the  traps  set  a  few  days 
before  this  bait  is  dragged.  Place  trap  in  some  hollow  log  or 
stump,  which  has  an  opening  at  the  base  or  make  an  artificial 
abode.  Set  trap  at  entrance  and  place  bait  within  the  abode. 
Smear  honey  at  two  or  three  places  within  the  abode  as  the 
animal  is  very  fond  of  this  article.  This  is  one  of  the  best 
methods  for  trapping  fisher.  I  discovered  this  in  i860  when  I 
found  a  fisher  robbing  honey  from  the  bees  in  a  tree. 

PORTABLE  FLOAT  FOR  MUSKRATS. 

The  float  is  a  great  success  in  trapping  muskrats  in  early 
spring  time.  To  prepare  these  portable  floats,  I  cut  chestnut, 
hemlock,  pine  or  cedar  logs  that  are  from  eight  to  twelve  inches 
in  diameter  into  pieces  from  three  to  six  feet  in  length,  according 
to  diameter.  The  greater  the  diameter,  the  shorter  the  float 
may  be  made.  I  take  the  piece  of  timber  to  the  water  and  im- 
merse it.  Now  I  carefully  mark  the  side  that  lies  down,  as 
nearly  all  sticks  seem  to  prefer  to  rest  on  one  side  more  than  on 
the  other  side.  This  bottom  side  is  flattened  a  little  to  make  it 
all  the  more  steady.  We  now  proceed  to  cut  a  notch  in  the  top 
side  and  in  the  center  of  the  float.  This  notch  is  wider  on  each 
side  than  in  the  center  and  is  cut  down  within  one  and  one-half 
to  two  inches  of  the  bottom  of  the  log.  A  steel  trap  is  set  in 
this  notch.  When  Mr.  Muskrat  comes  along  looking  for  some 
place  to  climb  upon,  he  spies  the  float.  This  float  is  housed  when 
not  in  use  to  keep  it  dry.  When  we  place  them  we  carry  them 
in  a  boat.  A  staple  with  a  ring  is  driven  in  one  end  of  the  float. 
A  stake  is  stuck  through  the  ring  into  the  bottom  if  the  water  is 
shallow ;  if  not,  a  cord  is  attached  to  the  ring  and  anchored  with 
a  stone  to  the  bottom.  O.  E.  Bartlett. 


3?6         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  &uide. 


Hunting  and  Trapping. 

BEAR. 

''After  selecting  a  place  to  set  your  traps,  build  a  V  shaped 
pen  and  set  your  trap  in  the  opening.  Never  fasten  the  trap. 
Secure  it  with  a  clog.  Any  short  piece  of.  timber  will  do,  for 
black  bear  the  clog  should  weigh  about  forty  pounds;  grizzly 
bear  from  ninety  to  one  hundred  pounds.  Place  bait  in  pen 
beyond  trap.  I  find  the  best  bait  to  be  a  good  sized  piece  of 
fresh  meat.  Drive  a  stake  through  it  to  prevent  it  being  taken 
away  without  an  effort,  and  the  bear  in  trying  to  get  the  bait  is 


I 

''4 

C.  N,  Dabney  A  Nice  CoUection  Bristolville,  O. 

certain  to  get  into  the  trap.  A  good  plan  is  to  smear  the  bait 
with  some  honey.  A  piece  of  cod  fish  placed  near  the  trap  is  a 
most  effective  draw  as  the  scent  can  be  detected  by  the  bear  for 
a  long  distance.  If  possible,  take  a  string  of  fresh  fish  and  make 
a  wide  circle  dragging  them  behind  to  as  wide  a  radius  as 
possible;  after  completing  the  circle  place  the  fish  in  the  pen;  if 
any  bear  are  near  you  are  pretty  certain  to  get  them. 

COUGAR. 

"This  animal  may  be  trapped  by  the  same  method  employed 
in  trapping  bear,  by  using  only  fresh  meat  as  bait.   But  the  surest 


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377 


way  is  to  find  where  they  have  killed  some  animal  and  left  a  part 
of  it  uneaten.  Secrete  your  traps  near  the  remains  and  you  are 
reasonably  sure  of  catching  your  game  when  it  returns  for  a 
second  meal,  as  they  hardly  ever  leave  the  neighborhood  of  a 
kill  until  the  carcass  is  all  eaten. 

Albert  Rosenbush. 

Turtle  Lake,  Wis. 

SUFFOCATING  SKUNK  AND  MINK. 

Have  dug  out  many  skunk,  but  digging  them  out  is  like  work- 
ing in  a  mine  on  a  profit  sharing  plan.  Hard  work,  long  lasting 
hours  and  small  results.  Probably  this  is  alright  for  southern 
climates,  but  up  here  in  South  Dakota  where  the  thermometer 
reaches  thirty  to  forty  degrees  below  zero  during  December, 
January  and  February,  the  ground  is  frozen  too  hard,  especially 
if  it  happens  to  be  in  clay.  During  the  last  part  of  November 
or  fore  part  of  December  if  the  frost  in  the  ground  is  not  too 
deep,  it  is  no  trick  to  dig  three  to  five  holes  containing  all  the 
way  from  one  to  ten  skunk  each,  in  a  single  day.  Here  are  m) 
methods : 

First"     Take  a  pick  and  shovel,  an  eight  foot  pole  and  a  gunny 
sack.    Start  for  the  holes  in  the  morning,  but  not  too 
early  as  the  skunk  does  not  always  get  home  until  it  is  good  day- 
light.   Have  seen  them  come  from  their  nocturnal  visitation  as 
late  as  8:30  a.  m. 

Arriving  at  the  hole,  I  look  for  fresh  signs,  such  as  hairs, 
tracks,  dung,  etc.  Having  assured  myself  that  the  den  is  inhabit- 
ed, I  put  my  shovel  and  pick  in  the  hole  and  look  for  other  open- 
ings, as  quite  often  there  is  more  than  one  opening,  especially  if 
the  skunk  should  happen  to  be  in  a  badger  hole.  If  there  is  only 
one  opening  I  immediately  proceed  to  dig  until  I  can  see  the  black 
and  white  hair  of  the  skunk.  Then  I  slowly  sprinkle  earth  all 
over  the  skunk,  pressing  it  closely  to  the  animal  with  my  hands. 
I  continue  this  process  until  I  have  four  or  five  inches  of  dirt 
over  the  skunk,  then  trample  more  dirt  in  the  opening  with  my 
feet,  and  this  process  continues  until  I  have  fifteen  to  twenty 
inches  of  dirt  over  the  hole.  I  then  depart  for  another  opening. 
Having  found  another  hole  and  assured  myself  that  same  is  in- 
habited, I  proceed  as  on  the  first  den.  After  the  process  is  com- 
pleted, I  return  to  the  first  den,  where  the  dirt  that  I  trampled 
is  removed,  and  with  my  hands  I  take  out  the  dead  animals. 
Second"  Sometimes  it  is  easier  to  smoke  out  a  skunk  than  to 
dig  him  out,  especially  if  the  hole  has  two  openings. 
I  usually  take  a  bee-fumigator  or  bee-blower  as  it  is  sometimes 
called,  and  blow  sulphur  fumes  into  the  holes.   Quite  often  I  am 


378         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


compelled  to  cover  the  opening  up  just  so  that  the  hose  enters  it 
freely.  If  the  den  is  inhabited,  the  skunk  will  come  out  on  the 
other  end,  in  preference  to  being  suffocated ;  but  once  in  a  while 
the  skunks  are  too  lazy  to  move  and  become  suffocated,  much  to 
my  sorrow,  because  then  I  have  to  go  to  work  and  dig  them  out. 

Have  suffocated  many  badgers,  foxes  and  wolves  by  the  use 
of  the  bee-blower,  and  on  one  occasion  captured  a  live  bear  in 
the  Black  Hills.  He  was  not  very  much  alive  by  the  time  I  got 
to  him,  but  I  immediately  put  a  collar  and  chain  around  his  neck 
and  a  pair  of  hobbles  on  his  fore  feet,  loaded  him  on  a  buck-board 
and  started  for  home.  He  slept  in  a  hollow  log  and  of  course 
it  was  very  easy  to  get  the  sulphur  fumes  to  his  nose.  I  tell 
you  when  he  came  to  I  had  a  time.  I  was  about  two  miles  from 
home  and  having  only  a  buck-board  I  had  great  difficulty  in 
getting  him  to  remain  with  me.  I  finally  reached  home  and  there 
is  where  the  picnic  started.    But  that  is  another  story. 

R.  B.  A. 

GOOD  POINTERS. 

TO   MAKE  DECOY. 

Obtain  from  the  female  of  the  dog,  wolf  or  fox,  the  matrix 
during  the  season  of  coition  and  preserve  in  alcohol ;  keep  bottle 
tightly  corked,  and  when  you  set  traps  be  sure  and  take  it  along, 
leaving  a  little  of  the  liquid  on  something  near  the  trap,  on  a 
bush,  rock,  etc. ;  also  put  some  on  the  soles  of  your  shoes.  The 
animal  for  which  you  are  trapping  will  come  across  this  decoy 
and  walk  around  and  around  and  consequently  will  step  into  a 
trap  before  he  knows  it. 

USEFUL  HINTS  TO  TRAPPERS. 

First:    Make  a  trail  in  different  directions  around  the  traps. 

Second :  A  piece  of  raw  fish  dragged  about,  will  sometimes 
help  to  draw  the  animal,  for  the  reason  that  if  you  are  careful, 
your  tracks  will  be  covered  and  the  animal  will  stop  to  see,  as 
he  will  think  that  there  has  been  some  other  animal  around  and 
will  not  fear. 

Third :  Be  sure  to  leave  everything  as  natural  as  possible 
around  your  traps. 

Fourth :  Be  careful  to  visit  your  traps  often  enough  so  that 
the  skins  will  not  have  time  to  get  tainted. 

Fifth :  As  soon  as  the  animal  is  dead  and  dry,  attend  to  skin- 
ning and  curing  skin. 

Sixth :  Be  sure  to  scrape  off  the  superflous  fat  on  the  skin, 
but  be  careful  not  to  scrape  or  cut  deep  enough  to  cut  the  fibers 
of  the  skin,  as  in  this  way  many  skins  are  practically  ruined  for 
market  purposes. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


Seventh :  Never  dry  a  skin  or  hide  in  the  sun  or  by  the  fire, 
but  in  a  cool,  shady  place,  sheltered  from  rain  or  snow. 

Eighth :  Never  wash  your  skins.  This  is  a  mistake  made  by 
many.    Simply  dry  tTiem  as  taken  from  the  animal. 

Ninth  :  Never  use  preparations  in  curing  your  skins ;  you  will 
only  ruin  them.   These  have  never  been  found  to  be  any  good. 

Tenth :  A  good  way  in  trapping  animals  such  as  the  fox, 
lynx,  etc.,  is  to  conceal  your  traps  in  a  bed  of  ashes,  leaves,  chaff, 
etc.,  being  careful  that  the  trap  can  spring. 

Eleventh :  Always  be  sure  that  your  trap  is  set  so  that  the 
animal  will  go  to  it,  and  that  it  will  secure  him  when  he  comes 
and  that  he  shall  not  release  himself. 

Twelfth :  You  should  always  smear  your  traps  in  melted  fat, 
blood,  or  beeswax,  except  when  trapping  rabbits  or  like  animals. 

Thirteenth :  In  most  cases  it  is  generally  best  to  induce  the 
animal  to  come  for  a  few  nights  before  setting  the  trap. 

SPRING  POLE. 

A  good  way  which  I  have  found  very  useful  in  trapping 
animals  that  are  liable  to  be  devoured  by  other  animals,  or  de- 
vour a  part  of  themselves  in  order  to  escape,  is  to  have  a  spring 
pole  as  it  is  commonly  called.  First  cut  a  pole  (green  so  as  to 
bend  easily),  then  drive  one  end  in  the  ground,  bend  it  down  from 
the  top  and  fasten  the  trap  to  it ;  then  fasten  the  pole  by  a  notch 
or  hook  to  a  small  tree  or  rock.  The  trapped  animal  in  its 
struggles  will  unhook  the  pole  and  the  pole  will  fly  back  lifting 
the  animal  in  the  air  and  out  of  the  reach  of  other  animals. 

HOW  TO  TRAP  OTTERS. 

Go  along  a  stream,  look  for  the  deepest  holes  where  the 
fish  are  sure  to  go  when  pursued.  Look  about  and  you  will 
see  the  tracks  where  the  otter  comes  out  of  the  water  and  up  the 
bank  and  often  you  will  find  a  small  tuft  of  grass  greener  than 
the  rest.  Open  and  examine  this  and  you  will  find  the  dung  of  the 
otter,  full  of  bones  and  scales  of  fishes.  Then  dig  out  a  place  up 
the  bank,  the  form  of  the  trap,  set  the  trap  slanting  so  that  the 
otter  will  tread  on  the  springs,  cover  over  with  rotten  wood, 
leaves,  etc.  Set  the  trap  level  with  the  ground.  When  done,  go 
back  as  far  as  you  can  and  throw  water  on  the  place  where  the  trap 
is  set  and  all  round  to  take  away  scent  of  your  hands,  etc.  To 
fasten  trap,  cut  a  pole,  size  of  chain  ring  and  set  upright  and  drive 
in  ground  or  tie  with  chain  to  a  rock  or  tree.  Before  leaving  pour 
a  few  drops  of  fish  oil  over  the  trap. 

Ralph  E.  Guscetti, 

Loyalton,  Calif. 


380 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


Hunting  and  Trapping. 

SNARES. 

One  of  the  best  snares  in  existence  is  the  ground  snare.  It 
is  made  as  follows :  First  find  a  sapling  about  ten  feet  high  and 
original  thickness  so  that  there  will  be  enough  spring  in  it. 
About  four  feet  from  it  drive  a  piece  of  board  about  four  inches 
wide,  one  inch  thick  and  four  feet  long.  Next  make  a  notch  in 
the  upper  end  of  the  flat  side  of  the  board  and  another  notch  in 
the  side  of  same  board.  Now  take  a  stick  one  foot  long  and 
make  it  one  inch  square  and  put  in  the  notch  No.  2.  Then  make 
a  notch  in  your  stick  the  same  as  the  notch  in  the  top  of  the 
board  and  make  your  trigger  holder.  Beginning  at  the  post, 
drive  stakes  into  the  ground  pretty  close  together  and  three  inches 
high  so  as  to  enclose  a  circle  in  front  of  the  post  a  foot  in 
diameter,  taking  care  so  the  tops  of  the  sticks  lean  inwards  so 


the  wire  noose  will  slide  freely  over  it.  The  next  is  the  snare. 
Get  some  strong,  limber  brass  wire  and  tie  securely  to  the  top 
of  the  sloping.  The  wire  should  be  about  five  feet  long.  Bend 
the  sloping  over  and  tie  one  end  to  the  trigger  holder.  Now 
make  your  snare  and  put  around  the  stakes  and  your  set  is  ready. 
When  the  animal  comes  along  he  will  have  to  get  on  his  hind 
legs  to  get  the  bait  and  when  he  touches  the  bait  the  limb  is  set 
free  and  the  snare  catches  the  victim  by  the  body  and  throws  it 
up  in  the  air;  it  cannot  use  its  legs  to  get  loose. 

MINK. 

Mink  live  along  streams,  rivers  and  lakes  and  feed  upon  fish, 
frogs,  etc.  The  female  mink  does  not  run  about  like  the  male, 
but  stays  around  the  den  and  the  male  mink  has  to  get  the  food. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


381 


They  are  restless  and  travel  almost  all  night  in  their  search  for 
food.  They  form  regular  beaten  tracks  by  their  crossing  and  re- 
crossing,  and  a  trap  in  such  a  place  will  nab  a  mink  any  time. 
A  good  place  to  set  trap  is  under  pile  of  drift  wood  in  the  mouth 
of  small  streams. 

A  good  set  is  to  find  a  shallow  box,  having  a  weather  worn 
appearance  and  bore  half  inch  holes  in  the  sides  so  that  the  water 
coming  through  will  cover  the  bottom  to  a  depth  of  three  inches. 
Drape  the  sides  with  moss  and  dirt  and  put  some  live  fish  in 
the  box  and  a  few  traps  with  them.  The  mink  are  fond  of  taking 
their  food  alive  and  here  you  have  a  set  that  gives  them  a  good 
invitation. 

Another  good  method  is  to  put  two  traps  side  by  side  and 
surround  each  Ipy  a  circle  of  rock,  the  traps  being  in  the  water. 
Hang  a  bird  about  one  and  one-half  feet  over  the  traps.  Make  the 
bird  look  as  natural  as  possible  and  you  are  pretty  sure  of  getting 
a  mink. 

Another  method  is  to  find  a  log,  hollow  in  one  end,  and  place 
in  the  water  so  that  the  hollow  end  will  be  about  one  foot  from 
the  other  bank.  Stake  it  down  with  stakes ;  put  some  bait  in  the 
log  and  stuflf  up  the  end  with  leaves.  Put  your  trap  right  out- 
side the  log  about  one  and  one-half  inches  under  water.  When 
Mr.  Mink  comes  along  he  stands  a  good  show  of  getting  caught. 

Another  good  way  is  to  find  a  place  where  there  is  a  little 
strip  of  land  between  the  land  and  the  water,  drive  stakes  along 
the  water  side  so  they  come  together;  just  outside  the  stakes  set 
your  trap  and  when  the  mink  comes  along  and  goes  on  the  land 
the  sticks  will  guide  him  directly  into  the  trap. 

A  good  set  in  water  is  to  cut  a  strip  across  the  brook  (if  there 
;s  ice  on  it)  about  one  inch  wide  and  drive  stakes  across  leaving 
a  space  about  four  inches  wide  in  the  center.  Now  build  up  so 
that  there  will  be  about  two  inches  of  water  above  the  mound. 
Place  a  trap  upon  the  mound  and  then  cover  up  everything  again. 
This  set  I  can  recommend.  Other  good  places  is  to  put  at  holes 
in  the  ice ;  where  you  think  there  is  a  mink  scrape  off  the  snow 
and  put  a  trap  right  by  the  hole,  cover  with  rabbit  fur,  feathers 
or  muskrat  fur  and  place  a  rabbit  under  trap.  When  you  have 
done  this  throw  snow  over  all. 

Sometimes  it  is  preferable  to  use  bait  and  sometimes  not,  be- 
cause when  a  mink  is  hungry  he  will  take  almost  any  kind  of 
bait  and  when  he  is  fleeing  he  will  take  no  bait.  The  best  kinds 
of  bait  are  fish,  muskrats,  birds,  hens,  rabbits  and  partridges.  In 
the  fall  or  spring  it  is  preferable  to  smoke  the  bait  as  then  it 
keeps  longer. 


382 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


Skinning  Mink. 
In  skinning  a  mink,  rip  with  your  knife  a  line  from  one  hind 
leg  to  the  other,  and  then  rip  it  to  the  root  of  the  tail.  Skin  all 
the  skin  off,  even  the  claws,  as  they  will  then  demand  higher 
prices.  Then  take  the  tail  bone  out  and  proceed  to  skin  down  to 
the  nose.  Do  not  cut  a  ring  around  the  leg  with  your  knife  half 
way  or  by  the  knee  joint  and  then  tear  it  off ;  skin  all  the  skin 
off.  Do  not  cut  too  many  holes  in  the  skin  as  the  more  you  do 
this  the  less  you  get  for  your  skin.  Take  plenty  of  time  and  do 
it  right.    Take  off  all  fat  and  then  proceed  to  stretch. 

STRETCHING  SKIN. 

Get  a  board  about  four  inches  wide  and  one-quarter  inch 
thick  and  three  feet  long.  Make  it  narrower  at  one  end,  so  it 
comes  to  a  point.  Make  another  board  one  inch  thick  and  three 
feet  long ;  take  the  small  board  and  put  on  the  center  of  the  large 
board  and  then  put  on  the  skin.  If  you  do  this  you  will  have  a 
nice  skin  when  it  is  dry. 

THE  SLIDING  POLE. 

The  sliding  pole  is  very  good  to  use  when  you  want  to  drown 
animals.  Find  a  smooth  pole  of  sufficient  length  so  it  will  reach 
deep  water,  drive  in  the  bottom  of  the  stream  and  fasten  to  the 
bank  with  a  stake.  Put  your  trap  ring  around  the  pole  and  fix 
it  so  that  it  will  slip  smoothly  along  the  pole,  the  pole  slanting 
from  shore  to  deep  water,  you  understand.  When  the  animal  is 
caught  it  dashes  for  deep  water  and  the  weight  of  the  trap  keeps 
it  from  coming  up  again. 

Morris  Thompson, 

Blair,  Wisconsin. 

FISHING  FOR  BAIT  AND  FOR  FOOD. 

When  a  trapper  goes  many  miles  into  an  unbroken  forest  for 
a  season's  trapping,  he  is  sometimes  put  to  his  wits'  ends  to 
know  how  to  procure  bait  enough  to  supply  a  line  of  traps, 
especially  if  he  has  always  trapped  near  a  settlement  where  he 
could  go  to  a  near-by  meat  or  fish  market  for  refuse.  Follow- 
ing is  my  method : 

In  making  up  my  outfit  for  trapping,  I  put  in  five  hundred  or 
six  hundred  feet  of  cotton  cord  about  one-eight  or  three-  six- 
teen inches  in  diameter.  This  is  to  be  used  as  a  set  line  during 
open  water  in  a  lake  or  pond.  Next  take  say  fifty  to  seventy- 
five  taper  shank  hooks  that  will  measure  about  one-half  to  five- 
eight  inches  across  the  curve.  Now  from  a  hank  of  linen  fish 
line  cut  some  leaders,  four  to  six  feet  long,  to  be  used  suspended 
from  set  line,  from  twenty  to  forty  feet  apart.    Now  add  one 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


383 


spool  of  black  linen  thread  and  a  little  piece  of  shoemakers'  wax 
for  lining  the  hooks,  which  is  done  by  warming  the  taper  shanks 
in  a  lamp  or  candle  flame  and  rub  them  on  the  wax,  then  wind 
the  third  spirally  around  the  shank.  Now  lay  the  thread  on  and 
wind  thread  back  over  hne  and  hook  to  place  of  beginning,  then 
form  a  large  loop  of  the  thread  winding  one  part  over  the  other 
two  or  three  turns;  then  take  hold  of  loose  end  and  pull  the 
loop  through.  Wax  the  whole  winding  a  little  and  you  have  a 
finished  job,  one  that  can  be  used  on  live  bait  mentioned  later. 
All  this  can  be  done  at  home  or  in  camp  as  preferred.  It  is  al- 
ways well  to  take  along  an  extra  hank  of  line  as  you  may  need 
a  bobbing  line  to  fish  through  the  ice  with  later  on.  There  are 
two  things  more  needed  to  complete  our  outfit,  that  is  a  minnow 
net — a  piece  of  mosquito  netting  will  answer  very  well,  and  an 
ice  chisel — a  two  inch  framing  chisel  will  answer.  And  by  the 
way,  it  is  well  to  fasten  a  cord  to  the  end  of  chisel  handle  and 
loop  the  other  end  around  one  wrist  to  avoid  dropping  through 
the  ice,  as  the  writer  did  the  first  winter  he  was  in  the  woods. 
Think  of  cutting  holes  through  thirty  inches  of  ice  w^th  an  axe, 
and  a  good  ice  chisel  only  forty  feet  away  lying  at  the  bottom 
of  the  lake — and  you  will  use  the  cord. 

Now  let  us  suppose  we  are  in  camp,  many  miles  from  civiliza- 
tion with  outfit  unpacked  ready  for  business.  We  want  a  good 
mess  of  fish  to  eat,  and  some  for  trap  bait.  First  of  all  we  must 
have  some  fish  bait;  there  are  no  fish  worms  to  be  had,  so  we 
must  do  the  next  best.  We  start  out  with  axe  in  hand  and  find 
a  dead  hardwood  tree,  preferably  a  hard  maple.  If  a  portion  of 
that  tree  is  well  decayed,  cut  it  down  and  you  will  find  in  the 
rotten  section  white  grubs  enough  to  fill  the  immediate  needs ; 
that  is  to  say,  for  enough  to  locate  some  minnows  and  fish 
enough  for  breakfast.  Perhaps  a  word  here  about  fish  for  food 
will  not  be  out  of  place. 

The  gills  and  entrails  should  be  removed  soon  after  being 
caught,  then  lay  fish  in  a  cool  place  over  night ;  that  gives  them 
time  to  wilt  (repent  as  it  were)  ;  then  they  will  lay  still  in  the 
frying  pan  and  not  break  to  pieces.  Now  our  fish  are  prepared 
for  morning,  and  we  have  located  a  school  of  minnows  and  we 
have  still  a  little  sunshine.  We  cut  a  brush  from  off  the  branches 
and  bend  it  into  a  hoop,  say  four  feet  in  diameter  and  fasten  our 
net  to  same,  put  in  a  small  stone  for  sinker,  attach  three  cords  to 
hoop  and  lower  it  in  water  that  is  from  four  to  six  feet  deep, 
either  from  shore,  boat  or  raft.  The  net  is  now  ready  to  be 
baited  with  bread  crumbs  thrown  on  the  water  and  allowed  to 
settle  in  the  net.    Chew  the  bread  well  before  putting  it  into  the 


384  Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  

water  and  it  will  reach  the  net  before  the  minnows  knock  it 
away  from  over  the  same.  If  bait  fish  are  plenty,  the  first  haul 
will  give  you  all  you  will  need  for  one  week,  as  we  do  not  pro- 
pose to  have  many  hooks  robbed  as  you  will  soon  see.  If  we 
have  a  little  daylight  left,  we  run  out  our  set  line,  using  our  boat 
or  raft  as  the  case  may  be,  fasten  the  line  to  a  tree  on  shore  and 
anchor  other  end  or  run  it  across  to  another  tree  or  bush  and 
fasten.  On  our  way  back  over  the  line  we  loop  on  our  leaders  and 
bait  the  hooks.  If  you  hook  the  bait  through  the  back  as  most  fish- 
ermen do,  you  will  have  more  hooks  robbed  than  you  can  keep 
supplied  with  bait.  Hold  the  bait  fish  in  hand  with  head  towards 
you,  catch  point  of  hook  in  skin  on  one  side  close  to  tail,  run 
the  point  under  the  skin  from  one-fourth  to  one-half  inch  ac- 
cording to  size  of  bait.  Now  turn  shank  of  hook  from  you  and 
take  hold  of  curved  part  and  draw  shank  and  a  few  inches  of 
line  through  hole  under  skin  made  by  hook;  n6w  catch  hook  in 
under  lip  and  draw  back  slack  line,  and  the  first  fish  that  swallows 
this  bait  is  yours.  If  not  taken  by  fish  your  bait  will  live  from 
one  to  two  weeks.  When  the  ice  freezes  over,  get  out  your  ice 
chisel  (with  cord  attached)  and  make  a  few  holes  in  the  ice  near 
the  shore,  and  use  your  longest  set  line  leaders,  if  water  is 
shallow;  but  if  water  is  from  ten  to  twenty  feet  deep  you  will 
have  to  use  some  of  that  extra  hank  we  brought  along  with  hooks 
fastened  on  as  already  described.  Cut  some  bars  and  crotches 
from  the  bushes ;  the  bars  should  be  at  least  three  feet  long 
and  three-quarters  to  one  inch  thick  and  lay  across  holes  in  ice; 
the  crotches  about  same  thickness  and  tapering  down  to  one-half 
inch  and  long  enough  to  reach  a  little  more  than  through  the  ice, 
say  twelve  or  fourteen  inches.  Fasten  line  well  up  on  crotch  and 
if  fish  are  large  it  is  well  to  give  it  a  turn  around  the  bar  also. 
These  lines  are  to  be  baited  just  as  we  baited  the  leaders  on  our 
set  line  earlier  in  the  season.  You  will  find  fish  enough  in  a 
country  that  is  worth  trapping,  to  supply  food  and  bait  in 
abundance. 

F.  H.  Bassett, 

Waterbury,  Conn. 

In  Case  of  Animal  Bite. 

If  bitten  by  an  animal,  press  or  bandage  tightly  the  part 
above  the  wound  until  it  quits  bleeding;  then  with  the  mouth 
suck  out  all  remaining  blood.  Wash  the  wound  with  carbolic 
acid  and  water.  Don't  stop  wound  from  bleeding  too  early,  a 
bleeding  wound  is  safer  than  one  that  does  not  bleed. 

A  TRAPPER'S  OUTFIT. 

To  go  away  loo  to  200  miles  from  any  railroad  and  from  the 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  I'rappers  Guide. 


385 


next  living  soul,  as  I  and  my  partner  have  done  for  a  period  of 
years,  requires  some  forethought  as  to  what  to  take  along,  espe- 
cially if  on  the  first  trip.  The  requirements  of  course,  depend  upon 
the  locality,  season  of  the  year,  and  what  is  necessary  in  one  sec- 
tion is  undesirable  in  another.  I  am  thirty-two  years  old  and  my 
partner  forty-five.  Both  of  us  have  trapped  and  hunted  in  the 
States  before  coming  here.  The  first  time  we  started  we  had,  or 
purchased  what  we  didn't  have,  the  following : 

Hardware. 


I 

Axe. 

I  Kettle. 

I 

Hatchet. 

I  Bucket. 

I 

Rifle. 

I  Frying  pan. 

I 

Shotgun. 

2  Pocket  match  safes. 

I 

Revolver. 

2  Pocket  knives. 

Supply  ammunition. 

I  Skinning  knife. 

I 

Hunting  knife. 

I  6x8-ft.  tent. 

2O0 

Ft.  linen  fish  line. 

50  Steel  traps. 

Fish  hooks. 

4  Window  glass,  8xio-in. 

50 

Ft.  rope. 

2  Table  knives. 

I 

Camp  stove. 

2  Galvanized  iron  cups. 

3 

Lengths  stove  pipe. 

Needles  and  thread. 

2 

Spoons. 

2  Watches. 

Covered  pot. 

I  Calendar. 

2 

Plates. 

Groceries. 

18 

Pounds  bacon. 

6  Boxes  matches. 

15 

Pounds  flour. 

3  Bars  soap. 

10 

Pounds  beans. 

I  Box  pepper. 

5 

Pounds  salt. 

y2  Pound  can  baking  powd 

2 

Pounds  ground  cofifee 

y2  Pint  flask  alcohol. 

Pound  green  tea. 

Extra  Clothing  Each. 

I 

Suit  underwear. 

I  Pair  woolen  blankets. 

I 

Top  shirt. 

2  Pair  socks. 

I 

Coat  and  pants. 

I  Pair  mitts. 

I 

Pair  shoes. 

I  Hat  and  cap. 

Such  articles  as  were  not  required  on  our  journey  were  per- 
manently packed  in  canvas  bags  suitable  to  be  placed  on  the 
horse's  back.  The  others  were  made  in  smaller  packages,  some 
of  which  were  carried  between  us  and  the  remainder  loaded  on 
the  horse. 

We  followed  a  Hudson  Bay  Co.'s  trail  for  many  miles,  then 
chose  a  river  which  we  followed  for  three  days.  After  ten  days' 
journey  we  arrived  at  the  spot  which  we  had  decided  upon, 


386 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


and  were  both  glad  to  get  there.  We  pitched  our  tent  the  same 
afternoon  and  the  next  day  started  to  make  a  permanent  log 
house.  This  we  had  fairly  completed  by  Oct.  20th.  The  house 
was  12x14  ft.  We  lacked  lumber  for  a  door,  an  J  material  for  a 
window.  On  Oct.  25th  my  partner  left  for  the  R.  R.  station  with 
the  horse,  for  an  additional  supply  of  provisions,  some  lumber 
to  make  a  suitable  door,  also  lumber  for  stretchers,  and  100 
additional  steel  traps.  During  his  absence,  I  kept  busy  laying  out 
trapping  grounds,  storing  vension  and  other  meat  supplies,  also 
getting  a  good  supply  of  winter  fuel. 

The  question  of  food  supply  is  an  easy  one  in  this  section, 
especially  since  both  of  us  are  good  shots.  On  November  i6th  he 
came  back  with  provisions,  traps,  and  a  dog. 

Mink  and  marten  were  what  we  were  after  in  particular.  We 
took  all  the  lynx  and  fox  we  got  hold  of,  but  neglected  wolves, 
wild  cat,  and  other  low  priced  fur  bearers.  Before  going  much 
farther,  I  want  to  say  it  is  a  very  good  idea  to  take  along  a  small 
supply  of  medicines  as  they  come  in  very  handy. 

The  first  part  of  February  I  took  my  turn  to  go  to  town  with 
what  furs  that  were  dry,  which  were  shipped  to  you  at  Minneapo- 
lis. When  going  back,  I  took  along  such  provisions  as  flour, 
coffee,  and  a  few  more  cooking  utensils,  matches,  bacon,  and  an 
additional  supply  ammunition  and  traps.  We  did  not  entirely  de- 
pend upon  steel  traps  as  we  found  them  very  bulky  and  as  we  had 
plenty  of  time,  we  made  deadfalls,  snares,  etc. 

Everything  went  smoothly  and  we  had  no  particular  trouble 
or  hardships  the  first  year.  It  may  be  interesting  to  relate  that 
just  after  a  severe  blizzard,  we  were  obliged  to  take  the  horse 
into  our  house  to  keep  him  from  being  devoured  by  packs  of 
wolves  that  surrounded  the  house  one  night. 

I  would  suggest  and  recommend  all  new  trappers,  especially 
those  who  want  to  locate  in  the  upper  part  of  Canada  to  choose 
trapping  grounds  pretty  well  in  the  timber,  but  always  along 
some  stream  or  lake  which  affords  a  supply  of  fish  and  better  trap- 
ping on  account  of  the  easy  access  and  habitat  of  fur  bearing 
animals.  Do  not  go  it  alone,  but  take  someone  with  you.  Neither 
wait  until  the  last  minute  to  start;  on  the  other  hand,  start  as 
early  as  August  or  September. 

We  have  been  up  here  now  the  fourth  year  but  probably  will 
have  to  change  our  location  before  next  winter.  The  country 
is  becoming  slowly  settled  up.  Furs  are  still  plentiful  and  at 
these  high  prices  a  trapper  can  make  as  good  wages  in  the  four 
or  five  months  as  he  can  by  working  the  year  round  in  the  states. 

We  want  to  suggest  and  recommend  to  all  trappers  who  start 
in  this  country,  never  to  go  away  far  from  the  cabin  unprotected. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


387 


and  when  going  away  close  and  securely  fasten  the  door.  Do 
not  wait  too  long  in  the  afternoon  before  going  home.  A  com- 
pass comes  handy.  Ailways  pitch  your  tent  or  make  your  cabin 
close  to  a  river  or  lake,  and  if  possible  near  a  spring  so  that  you 
have  fresh  and  wholesome  drinking  water. 

J.  B.  Johnson. 
Mark  Stevens. 

Hunting  and  Trapping. 

A  POINTER  on  trapping. 

Before  setting  out  to  trap  one  should  examine- each  trap.  They 
should  be  smeared  up  with  grease  or  other  fat  and  just  before 
setting  start  a  small  fire  and  partly  burn  off  the  lard  or  fat, 
which  will  leave  the  trap  just  as  soon  as  the  steel  is  sufficiently 
hot  enough.  Some  trappers  prefer  to  smoke  the  traps  in  pref- 
erence to  greasing  and  burning  the  grease  off.  After  this  is 
done  the  trap  should  not  be  handled  with  bare  hands,  and  should 
be  immediately  set.  Some  trappers  scorn  the  idea  of  smoking 
traps,  smearing  them  with  blood,  grease,  etc.  By  preparing 
traps  the  above  way  and  handling  them  with  gloves,  the  latter 
possessing  odor  of  some  musk  (especially  beaver  or  muskrat) 
animal's  suspicion  is  certainly  decreased,  perhaps  resulting  twenty 
to  thirty  per  cent,  more  strikes  and  victims  than  if  traps  were  left 
natural. 

trapping  without  bait. 
In  trapping  without  bait  with  snares,  steel  traps  or  home- 
made traps,  it  is  necessary  that  the  paths  of  the  animals  be  the 
least  possible  disturbed  or  walked  about,  that  the  traps  and 
snares  be  carefully  concealed  by  being  covered  with  leaves,  bits 
of  earth,  rotten  wood  and  other  similar  substances.  The  idea 
is  to  leave  the  place  in  a  natural  appearance.  Unnecessary  hand- 
ling and  removing  dirt,  excavations,  etc.,  are  to  be  prevented  as 
much  as  possible. 

leading  animals  to  bait. 

One  of  the  most  successful  and  often  called  Indian  style  of 
trapping  is  to  drag  a  fresh  killed,  still  warm  and  bleeding  animal 
about  lOO  yards,  in  some  instances,  a  mile,  over  the  ground  to 
the  previously  concealed  trap  or  traps.  The  carcass  is  generally 
buried  to  a  reasonable  extent  or  fastened  in  one  manner  or 
another  so  as  to  detain  the  victim,  which  may  be  a  wolf,  fox 
bear  or  other  similar  game.  Sometimes  a  hole  is  dug  and  the 
carcass  (bait)  thrown  therein  and  the  traps  set  about  the  hole. 
The  Indian  usually  drags  the  bleeding  bait  on  a  rope  or  stick 
while  riding  a  pony,  thus  avoiding  human  tracks  or  scent. 


388         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


SETTING  TRAPS  IN  WINTER. 

''In  the  winter  when  there  is  a  frequent  fall  of  snow,  with 
occasional  thawing  and  freezing,  I  have  experienced  some  dif- 
ficulty in  covering  traps  so  as  to  retain  them  in  good  working 
order.  Quite  often  a  thick,  stiff  crust  has  formed  over  the  set 
and  naturally  small  animals  will  not  spring  the  trap,,  and  if  sprung 
the  jaws  will  not  hold  them  due  to  obstruction.  To  overcome 
this  difficulty  I  tried  the  use  of  white  tissue  paper  with  satis- 
factory results.    Of  course  this  can  only  be  used  when  ground 


is  all  covered  with  snow  and  should  be  large  enough  to  cover 
trap  completely.  To  keep  from  blowing  off,  I  usually  put  snow  or 
ice  on  the  corners.  I  always  approach  trap  from  same  side  and 
never  approach  closely  unless  the  trap  has  been  disturbed. 

Lewis  Olsen, 

Hunting  and  Trapping. 

Settin        '^^^  important  feature  in  trapping  is  to  set  the  traps 
f.  '"^       where  the  animal  is  most  likely  to  come  and  get  into 
it,  second  that  the  trap  will  hold  the  victim  and  third 
that  the  trapper  get  best  results  in  skinning,  stretching  and  drying. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide,  389 


It  is  very  necessary  to  have  your  traps  free  from  human  scent 
and  iron  odor.  To  overcome  this  smoke  the  traps  over  a  fire  of 
burning  hemlock  or  cedar  boughs,  or  dip  traps  in  fresh  blood, 
melted  fat  or  beeswax. 

An  animal,  such  as  the  fox,  wolf  or  raccoon,  should  be  in- 
vited to  come  to  the  same  place  several  times  before  traps  are 
set.  Arrange  this  place  with  sawdust,  hayseed,  chaff  and  chicken 
feathers;  scatter  bait  adapted  to  the  animal  which  you  seek  to 
catch.  For  the  fox  and  wolf  use  the  offals  of  chickens,  bones, 
waste  meat,  fish  heads,  etc.  For  the  raccoon  use  nubbins  of  corn. 
After  leaving  the  above  for  a  few  days,  and  indications  point 
to  the  animal  having  visited  the  place,  proceed  to  set  your  traps. 
Scatter  plenty  of  food,  and  see  that  traps  are  well  fastened. 
Another  way  is  to  set  your  traps  several  inches  under  water. 
Then  hang  your  bait  directly  above  trap  on  a  sapling  or  spile  so 
as  to  make  the  animal  stand  directly  above  the  trap ;  in  trying  to 
get  at  the  bait  he  will  fall  into  the  trap.  This  method  can  be 
used  in  many  places,  by  having  the  traps  well  covered.  In  the 
water  set,  have  a  weight  or  stick  arranged  so  that  the  animal  will 
drown. 

Every  trap  should  have  a  strong  short  chain  attached  to  it,  as 
animals  will  gnaw  other  like  materials  and  release  themselves. 
Traps  should  be  so  arranged  that  the  animal  cannot  work  around 
with  trap  and  destroy  its  fur. 

Mink  Set  mink  set  traps  near  a  stream.    If  you  cannot 

find  any  mink  holes,  make  some,  then  set  your  trap 
in  the  cavity.  Build  up  the  three  sides  with  bark  and  stones,  and 
cover  traps  with  grass  and  mud.  In  setting  a  trap,  always  have 
loose  jaw  of  trap  away  from  where  the  animal  enters,  for  in  many 
instances  the  loose  jaw  will  raise  up  and  the  animal  will  walk 
over  the  trap.  Arrange  so  that  animal  will  walk  into  trap  from 
the  side ;  turn  your  trap  in  this  manner  wherever  possible. 

(For  Illustration  See  Page  388)  J.  J.  StORM^ 

Preparing  Traps. 

''All  new  traps  which  I  purchase,  or  all  old  ones  before  start- 
ing out  to  trap,  are  boiled  in  hemlock  or  spruce  water.  Some- 
times I  use  hemlock  bark,  at  other  times  their  boughs,  which  I  cut 
up  in  small  pieces,  and  when  the  water  is  boiling  the  trap  and 
chain  are  dipped  therein  for  a  few  minutes  and  then  permitted  to 
dry.  This  removes  the  varnish  and  cleans  the  traps  otherwise.  If 
the  traps  are  rusty  I  take  sandpaper  or  a  file  and  remove  the  rust 
before  boiling  traps.  I  have  done  this  for  years  and  find  that  the 
traps  are  not  injured,  as  some  claim  that  boiling  has  tendency 
to  weaken  the  springs.  J.  C.  Z. 


Prize  Drawing  of  American  Raw  Fur  Skins 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide,  391 

TO  ERADICATE  THE  DISAGREEABLE  SKUNK  ODOR  FROM 
CLOTHING  AND  BODY. 

To  remove  the  disagreeable  odor  from  the  person,  clothing  or 
skins,  is  quite  a  conundrum.    Following  are  the  best  methods. 

First — Hang  the  clothing  up  on  a  line  and  give  garments 
necessary  airing. 

Second — Rinse  clothing  so  affected  in  a  bath  of  moist  hard- 
wood sawdust.    If  the  sawdust  is  perfumed,  so  much  the  better. 

Third — Rinse  clothing  affected  by  the  disagreeable  odor  of 
the  skunk  stink  and  civet  cat  in  gasoline  or  benzine.  Immerse 
them  numerous  times,  then  rinse  and  hang  out  on  line  to  dry. 
While  doing  this  never  smoke  or  permit  any  fire  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity.  If  you  can  obtain  naphtha,  so  much  the  better. 
Obtain  sufficient  to  cover  clothing  and  rinse  two  or  three  times. 
Hang  on  the  line  and  the  naphtha  will  evaporate  in  very  short 
order,  and  with  it  the  odor. 

Fourth — Wrap  affected  garments  up  in  hemlock  bark  or  place 
in  moist  crumbs  of  bark.  Within  twenty-four  hours  the  clothing 
will  be  ready  to  put  on. 

Fifth — Hold  affected  garments  over  fire  of  red  cedar  boughs 
and  when  they  are  saturated  with  the  smoke  and  odor  coming 
from  the  burning  boughs,  hang  up  on  a  line  to  air  out. 
If  cedar  is  unobtainable,  use  hemlock  boughs  or  burn  large 
quantities  of  pine  needles. 

Sixth — To  eradicate  this  disagreeable  smell  from  the  body, 
especially  the  hands,  one  can  use  naphtha,  gasoline  or  kerosene 
and  finish  by  eradicating  odor  of  these  oils,  as  well  as  the 
original  odor,  by  washing  the  hands  or  other  portions  of  the 
body  with  tar  soap.  Strong  soapsuds  from  tar  soap  will  remove 
the  skunk  odor  quite  frequently  alone. 

At  the  tannery,  skins  are  packed  in  moist  hemlock  sawdust, 
washed  in  soapsuds,  or  at  times  the  odor  is  counteracted  by  the 
use  of  perfumes.  If  skins  are  not  badly  saturated,  no  attention  is 
paid,  as  in  the  process  of  cleaning  in  the  large  revolving  drums 
which  contain  fine,  dry,  hard-wood  sawdust,  the  skins  come  out 
free  from  odor.  These  drums  make  about  twenty  revolutions 
per  minute  and  the  furs  fall  on  pegs ;  at  every  revolution  they  are 
submerged  in  the  sawdust,  which  not  only  tends  to  eradicate  all 
odor,  but  also  cleanses  the  fur  thoroughly.  After  this  process  the 
furs  are  freed  from  sawdust  by  shaking. 

Never  use  chloride  of  lime  as  that  destroys  the  clothing. 
Neither  is  it  a  good  policy  to  bury  the  clothing  in  the  ground,  as 
that  tends  to  keep  the  nuisance  within  them,  unless  the  pieces  are 
spread  out  and  then  covered  with  fine,  damp  earth. 


SKUNK  FARM. 

MANNER   or   STARTING   A   SKUNK   FARM;    SIZE  AND 
LOCATION;  NUMBER  WITH  WHICH  TO  START; 
BREEDING;  FEEDING;  TIME  AND  KIND 
TO  KILL;  DISEASE,  ETC. 

BUSINESS  of  raising  skunk  for  the  pelt  is 
not  much  dififerent  from  the  one  in  which  any 
farmer  is  engaged  when  raising  domestic  ani- 
n^ials,  either  for  food  or  show  purposes.  It  has 
been  estabHshed  that  the  raising  of  skunks  is 
profitable  and  legitimate;  and  the  outlook 
promises  a  fair  remuneration. 

The  skins  of  these  animals  will  always  command  a  market 
and  it  is  reasonable  to  believe  that  the  value  of  a  prime  skin  at 
no  time  will  fall  below  fifty  cents  and  from  that  up  to  $2.50.  A 
fair  average  price  of  $1.00  can  be  reasonably  assured,  and  not- 
withstanding other  valuable  by-products,  the  skin  alone  is  suf- 
ficient to  make  the  business  a  profitable  one. 

To  Start  should  attempt  to  raise  skunks  unless  he 

a  Farm  studied  their  habits  and  willingly  contributes  a 

large  share  of  his  time  in  caring  for  them ;  likewise 
must  he  be  prepared  to  expend  quite  a  sum  of  money  in  arranging 
a  suitable  location.  Having  accustomed  and  informed  himself  of 
the  ways,  habits  and  food  of  the  animal,  likewise  the  question 
of  propogation  and  breeding,  he  should  then  look  around  for  a 
location  such  as  below  described.  Not  to  fancy  the  animal,  to 
dread  its  existence,  to  get  frenzied  in  coming  in  contact  with  their 
odor,  and  not  to  have  patience,  would  naturally  result  in  failure. 
The  skunk  needs  as  much  attention  as  chickens  and  other  do- 
mestic birds  and  animals.  Their  pens  must  also  be  cleaned^ 
and  a  good  supply  of  fresh  water  must  be  constantly  before  them. 
Size  and  Lo  Apparently  this  is  an  easy  matter,  but  nine  out 
cation  of  ^^^^  ^^'^^  important  subject  insufficient  at- 

Farm  tention,  acting  hastily,  and  start  without  due 

deliberation.  A  small  island,  one  that  is  not 
likely  to  be  flooded  in  the  spring  time,  is  the  most  practicable.  It 
need  not  be  fenced  in  as  the  only  danger  lies  in  the  skunks  de- 
parture during  the  winter  time  when  the  water  is  frozen,  but  if 
properly  fed  and  provided  with  a  reasonable  sized  scampering 
ground  the  skunk  will  not  migrate ;  and  if  he  does,  nine  times  out 
of  ten  he  will  return  to  his  den  of  his  own  accord.  If  an  island 
cannot  be  secured,  the  next  best  place  is  a  plat  or  location  facing 
some  lake  or  stream  where  the  banks  are  somewhat  steep  in  pref- 
erence to  a  sandy  shore.  Endeavor  to  secure  a  location  on  some 
point  where  two  streams,  or  a  lake  and  a  creek  come  together. 


394         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  'Trappers  Guide. 


This  makes  an  ideal  location,  especially  if  wooded.  The  size  of 
the  location  depends  entirely  upon  the  number  of  skunks  that  are 
to  be  raised;  also  somewhat  upon  the  land,  whether  all  parts  can 
be  utilized  in  making  the  smaller  enclosures,  such  as  breeding 
pens,  pens  where  the  female  are  to  be  placed  while  raising  the 
young,  scampering  grounds  in  which  large  numbers  can  be  placed 
together,  etc.  One  not  having  at  least  an  acre  of  ground  should 
not  attempt  to  start.  Endeavor  to  have  plenty  of  fresh  water  in 
each  pen,  and  if  consistent  have  the  large  pens  in  which  the  female 
are  enclosed  the  greatest  part  of  the  time,  open  to  flowing  water, 


Skunks  and  their  abode  on  a  Skunk  Farm  From  a  Photograph 

or  enclose  portion  of  the  lake  front  so  that  they  may  be  able  to 
obtain  fresh  water  at  any  and  all  times. 

Number  with  having  had  any  previous  experience 

Which  to       should  start  in  a  small  way.    Twenty  to  thirty 
Start  females  is  sufficient.    It  is  unnecessary  to  have 

pairs,  as  one  buck  is  sufficient  to  serve  ten  fe- 
males, and  as  the  males  are  of  no  particular  value  excepting  dur- 
ing the  breeding  season,  it  is  unprofitable  to  feed  a  larger  number 
than  is  absolutely  necessary.  With  the  exception  of  during  the 
breeding  season,  they  should  be  kept  separate  from  the  females. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


395 


No  more  than  fifty  females  should  ever  be  together  and  we  believe 
twenty  to  thirty  will  get  along  nicer  and  with  better  results  to  the 
breeder.  If  you  have  more  than  this  number,  subdivide  them  into 
separate  enclosures. 

It  is  important  not  to  place  im^mature  males  or  females  with 
the  older  animals ;  neither  is  it  advisable  to  retain  undesirable 
broad  striped  species,  as  such  are  unprofitable  and  should  not  be 
retained  by  any  breeder.  Only  such  as  are  robust,  healthy,  of 
good  size,  and  of  the  black  or  short  striped  species,  should  be 
raised. 

Obtain  their  good  will  and  at  no  time  punish  them.  Skunks 
will  not  do  well  in  domesticity  if  scared  of  the  feeder  and  are 
afraid  to  be  in  his  presence. 

Breedin  breeding  season  starts  during  the  month  of 

March  and  seldom  continues  beyond  April ;  in 
about  nine  weeks  thereafter,  generally  during  the  month  of  May, 
the  mother  brings  forth  a  litter  of  from  8  to  lo  which  she  nour- 
ishes and  retains  until  they  are  able  to  shift  for  themselves.  As 
elsewhere  stated,  only  strong,  robust,  well-formed,  and  as  near 
as  possible,  black-furred  skunks  should  be  raised.  During  the 
period  of  coition  the  females  should  be  placed  in  a  breeding  pen 
8  to  10  at  a  time,  with  which  put  one  of  the  bucks.  If  you  find 
they  are  getting  along  nicely  and  not  fighting,  let  the  buck  re- 
main for  two  days,  after  which  time  another  buck  should  be 
placed  with  them.  After  the  rutting  season  is  over  the  females 
can  be  placed  in  the  large  scampering  pen ;  in  about  seven  weeks 
they  should  be  separated  and  placed  into  smaller  pens,  not  more 
than  two  or  three  females  to  the  pen,  and  if  possible,  only  one. 
Hay,  straw,  grass,  etc.,  should  be  given  them  so  that  they  can  pad 
their  abode  and  make  it  warm.  At  this  time  they  should  be  well 
fed,  especially  after  the  young  are  born.  The  female,  even  if 
penned  up,  alone,  will  not  become  very  lonesome,  being  that  she 
is  able  to  see  the  others  in  the  adjoining  enclosure. 

As  soon  as  the  offspring  are  of  sufficient  size  where  they  are 
able  to  feed  without  the  mother's  assistance,  they  should  be  penned 
up  separate.  It  probably  makes  no  difference  how  many  there 
are  in  one  enclosure  as  long  as  the  pen  is  large  and  roomy.  Give 
them  a  chance  to  make  holes  in  the  earth  and  become  accus- 
tomed to  scrambHng  for  their  own  food.  During  the  fall  months 
separate  the  male  from  the  female  and  feed  the  former  with  meat 
and  other  well  nourishing  food  stuff  so  that  they  will  mature 
quickly.  It  is  unprofitable  to  feed  a  large  number  of  male  skunks, 
therefore  when  December  or  January  comes,  or  just  as  soon  as 
the  young  males  are  large  enough  they  should  be  killed  and  their 
skins  marketed. 


396         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


It  is  of  utmost  importance  never  to  permit  any  of  the  male  off- 
spring of  your  farm  to  cohabit  with  the  female ;  on  the  other  hand 
seek  new  bucks  every  year  and  take  pains  that  the  wild  ones  are 
not  more  than  two  years  old,  and  that  they  are  strong  and  robust, 
and  if  possible  all  black  furred.  All  sickly  looking  male  or 
female  skunks  should  be  removed  from  the  others  and  penned  up 
separately. 

P^^^  There  is  no  reason  to  feel  any  anxiety  as  far  as  food 
is  concerned,  especially  when  one  starts  m  on  a  small 
scale,  thus  educating  himself  as  to  the  quantity  and  kind,  of  food 
necessary,  also  feeding  time.  It  is  very  desirable  that  the  diet 
be  confined  as  much  as  possible  to  vegetables.  One  should  re- 
duce their  carnivorous  habits  to  the  minimum ;  probably  only  once 
in  a  week  give  them  meat  and  even  then  endeavor  to  have  them 
eat  it  cooked  or  partly  cooked  in  preference  to  raw.  At  the  same 
time  if  you  find  a  rotten  chicken  or  a  deceased  animal,  give  them 
parts  of  it  at  such  times  as  in  your  judgment  is  advisable  that 
they  should  have  such  food.  Could  hardly  expect  anyone  to  cook 
or  bother  to  cook  such  decayed  flesh.  It  is  also  essential  not  to 
over-feed  the  animal,  for  by  so  doing  they  are  liable  to  die  over 
night ;  on  the  other  hand  it  is  of  utmost  importance  to  give  them 
plenty  of  fresh  water.  The  quantity  of  food  is  probably  much 
more  important  than  quality. 

The  skunk  will  eat  fish,  eggs,  nearly  all  kinds  of  vegetables, 
fresh  or  putrid  meat  of  any  kind,  also  bread  and  milk.  The  latter 
should  constitute  his  principal  diet  after  they  are  educated  and 
become  accustomed  to  it. 

Much  of  the  food  can  be  obtained  for  little  or  nothing  by 
making  arrangements  with  hotels  in  the  city  to  keep  such  leavings 
separate,  also  with  butcher  shops,  bakeries,  etc.  If  one  should 
make  a  habit  of  visiting  such  cities  every  other  day  during 
the  summer  and  probably  once  a  week  during  the  winter  time, 
he  will  be  able  to  obtain  all  the  food  that  fifty  or  one  hundred 
skunks  require,  besides  such  as  he  should  have  in  constant  supply 
at  home. 

Skunks  will  eat  the  following  articles:  Fish,  eggs,  bugs, 
birds,  fruit,  melons,  apples,  sweet  corn,  rabbits,  chickens,  musk- 
rats,  decayed  meats,  scrapings  from  the  table,  meat  and  vegetables 
in  general,  and  particularly  milk  and  bread. 

^.  Have  been  unfortunate  in  satisfyinsr  ourselves  of 

any  periodical  or  known  diseases  to  which  the  ani- 
mal is  subject.  The  great  danger  is  from  over-feeding;  the 
greatest  danger,  however,  must  be  avoided  by  keeping  the  males 
away  from  the  females,  and  whenever  the  mother  is  inclined  to 
shun  her  offspring  they  must  be  immediately  removed,  otherwise 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


397 


they  v/ill  be  killed  or  starved  to  death.  More  deaths  are  traceable 
to  over-feeding  and  to  contact  either  by  the  male  or  female  than 
to  anything  else. 

...  .      In  captivity  skunks  become  quite  tame 

Time  and  Manner  of  1.111      •      r.        1  i-      1  .  1 

,  and  the  breeder  is  often  oblio^ed  to  shove 

Killing  Skunks  .  ^1        •  1    •         1     ^  •  1 

for  Market  them  gently  aside  m  order  to  pass  m  and 

out  of  the  gates.  When  the  weather  is 
real  cold,  not  before  December  ist,  they  can  be  killed,  but  it  is 
well  to  kill  one  as  a  sample  and  if  the  skin  is  thoroughly  prime 
others  may  be  picked  out  for  slaughter. 

Provide  yourself  with  a  long  stick  to  which  a  wire  is  attached 
forming  a  snare.  This  should  be  placed  over  the  animal's  head 
and  when  the  wire  is  at  the  proper  place,  pull  it  tight  around  the 
neck,  lift  the  animal  off  the  ground  and  in  a  few  minutes  he 
will  be  dead.  Another  plan  is  to  take  a  stick  about  four  feet 
long  to  which  attach  an  iron  knob.  After  you  have  chosen  an 
animal  for  slaughter,  with  your  stick  strike  the  animal  a  sharp 
blow  on  the  head ;  seldom  more  than  one  blow  is  necessary.  Lift 
the  animal  away  from  the  others,  either  placing  it  in  a  sack  or 
small  wagon  that  should  be  handy  for  that  purpose.  It  is  needless 
to  state  the  importance  of  skinning  the  animal  promptly  and 
that  the  skins  should  be  properly  scraped  and  stretched.  Save 
the  fat  of  the  animals,  which  should  be  rendered,  into  clean  jars 
or  bottles.  The  gall  and  their  scent  bags  should  also  be  saved. 
The  other  portions  of  the  body  can  be  gradually  fed  to  the  other 
skunks. 

How  Farm  advisable,  notwithstanding  you  have  located 

Should      your  farm  on  an  island,  that  same  should  be  fenced 
in.  Especially  is  this  true  if  one  or  two  sides  are 
Fenced      exposed  to  the  water.    The  proper  way  to  fence  a 
farm  of  this  kind  is  as  follows : 
Plow  a  trench  three  to  four  feet  deep  and  four  to  six  feet  wide. 
Set  the  posts  six  to  seven  feet  apart  in  center  of  trench  and  at 
least  twenty  inches  into  the  ground.    The  wire  netting  should  be 
of  a  close  mesh  and  not  of  the  chicken  variety,  but  the  stronger 
kind  used  for  fencing  in  pigs,  gardens,  etc.    Dig  another  trench 
along  the  posts  which  will  enable  you  to  place  the  bottom  of  the 
wire  at  least  twelve  inches  below  the  level  of  the  ground  (fourteen 
to  sixteen  inches  preferable).  After  such  a  fence  is  made,  saw  top 
of  fence  posts  either  flat  or  slanting,  upon  which  nail  pieces  of 
two-by-four;  under  these  pieces  a  thin  mesh  of  chicken  wire 
should  be  nailed  so  as  to  prevent  the  animal  from  climbing  over 
the  fence.    To  make  it  more  compact,  nail  a  piece  of  one-by-four 
or  one-by-six  on  the  edges  of  the  two-by-four  extensions.  This 
makes  a  very  durable,  comj.r.ct  fence,  over  which  no  animal  will 


398  Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


climb.  In  making  the  fence  along  the  creek  or  lake  it  is  neces- 
sary that  the  posts  should  be  set  four  or  five  feet  from  the  shore  in 
the  water.  The  wire  need  not  extend  to  the  bottom,  as  the  skunks 
are  not  in  the  habit  of  diving,  therefore  no  opportunity  is  pre- 
sented whereby  the  skunk  may  become  liberated. 

Amongst  the  various  letters  received  we  have  quite  a  number 
who  have  tried  skunk  farming  and  have  made  it  a  failure.  One 
party  in  particular  who  desires  his  name  withheld,  started  in 
raising  skunks  on  a  large  scale,  paying  $2.00  to  $3.00  for  the 
live  animals  regardless  of  sex,  and  invested  a  large  sum  Qi  money 


Section  of  a  Skunk  Farm  From  a  Photograph 


in  suitable  grounds,  fences,  etc.  The  chief  trouble  as  related  by 
him  was,  that  skunks  did  not  multiply  fast  enough  and  that  many 
died  without  sufficient  cause  and  some  were  killed  by  the  others. 
This  party  in  particular,  retained  the  skunks  in  a  large  enclosure, 
paid  no  attention  to  breeding,  and  probably  had  as  many  males 
as  females.  The  food  that  was  supplied  the  animals  consisted 
of  chickens,  deceased  meat,  principally  pork,  beef  and  mutton 
and  at  times  entire  carcasses  of  young  lambs  were  thrown  into 
the  enclosure.  This  same  party  writes  us  that  fish  made  excellent 
food,  but  that  all  food  of  any  nature  was  cast  aside  for  fowl. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


399 


either  chickens,  turkeys,  ducks,  etc.  This  party  gave  the  skunk 
plenty  of  water,  having  troughs  distributed  at  various  parts  of 
the  enclosure.  He  is  positive  that  a  great  many  of  the  young 
were  killed  by  the  male  parent. 

It  is  evident  that  the  above  mentioned  patty  had  little  or  no 
experience,  and  started  in  this  without  due  deliberation  and  as 
stated  in  the  first  part  of  this  article,  no  one  should  go  into 
this  business  unless  he  likes  it,  and  only  then  after  he  has  studied 
the  habits  and  ways  of  the  skunk. 

SKUNK  FARMING. 

I  beg  to  acknowledge  check,  and  here  is  my  article  on  Skunk 
Farming ;  trust  it  will  be  worth  the  money.  I  have  given  you  my 
experience,  and  hope  prospective  skunk  farmers  will  be  benefited 
by  it.    Have  had  three  years'  experience  in  raising  skunk. 

The  first  year  I  started  with  ten  females  and  two  bucks,  and 
I  thought  that  I  found  the  secret  of  raising  skunks,  but  in  this 
I  missed  my  guess,  for  when  the  young  were  two  or  three  weeks 
old,  they  died,  or  were  killed,  just  which  I  did  not  know  at  that 
time.  All  I  had  left  of  the  increase  was  twelve  young  out  of  the 
possible  sixty  or  seventy. 

I  felt  discouraged  and  like  giving  up,  but  the  fact  that  the 
old  ones  would  bring  $i.oo  or  more  next  fall  and  the  skins 
of  the  young  ones  just  as  much,  I  decided  to  try  again,  especially 
since  I  had  devoted  much  of  my  time  and  spent  quite  a  little 
money  in  fencing,  etc.  The  following  morning  I  removed  the 
two  females  that  had  their  young  left  and  placed  them  with  their 
own  legitimate  offspring  each  in  a  separated  enclosure.  No  other 
skunks  were  permitted  therein,  and  in  this  way  I  succeeded  in 
raising  eight  out  of  the  ten.  When  the  Httle  ones  were  three 
months  old  I  let  them  loose  and  they  did  well. 

During  June  I  increased  the  inhabitants  of  my  skunk  farm 
by  twenty-six  young  captured  by  me  in  box  traps,  also  got  seven 
old  ones.  These  I  divided  into  four  groups.  Eight  of  the  young 
were  turned  loose,  the  remaining  eighteen  were  equally  divided 
and  placed  into  separate  pens.  All  seemed  to  do  well.  The  old 
ones  were  confined  with  the  two  bucks  until  such  time  that  I 
could  separate  the  males  from  the  females.  This  I  did  a  few  days 
thereafter,  and  the  new  bucks,  evidently  only  one  year  old,  were 
held  together  in  a  pen.  I  was  able  to  still  further  increase  my 
inhabitants  by  capturing  wild  skunks,  both  young  and  old,  by 
September  15th.  During  the  months  of  July  and  August  I  lost 
six  skunks  (four  old  and  two  young  ones).  These  evidently 
died  through  some  disease. 

When  fall  came  I  had  sixty-five  to  seventy  skunks;  I  was 


400 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


getting  along  nicely  but  felt  I  was  devoting  more  time  than  was 
necessary  or  that  the  possible  revenue  permitted.  Nevertheless, 
I  was  much  interested  and  refused  an  offer  to  sell  out  for  $200.00 
and  $25.00  annual  rental  for  my  ground.  I  turned  the  offer  down 
and  put  more  energy  in  the  business.  During  the  month  of 
December  I  killed  twenty  young  and  old  skunks.  From  their 
pelts  I  realized  $23.00.  The  skunks  I  killed  were  either  broad 
striped  or  sickly  looking,  excepting  a  few  of  the  bucks  for  which 
I  had  no  use.  The  greatest  part  of  this  money  was  spent 
in  wire  fencing,  and  a  little  lumber. 

The  season  for  mating  was  soon  to  start.  The  bucks  were 
separated,  each  in  his  pen.  I  then  took  ten  females  and  had  one 
buck  serve  them.  The  next  day  I  removed  the  buck  from  the  den 
and  put  in  another.  In  this  way  I  was  sure  of  an  offspring.  The 
coming  May  I  must  have  had  350  to  400  inhabitants,  and  it 
taxed  my  capacity  to  keep  each  female  separate.  In  fact,  I  had 
to  devote  my  entire  time  to  the  skunk  farm.  I  had  little 
trouble  about  the  old  killing  their  young.  Of  course  I  lost  quite 
a  number  of  young  skunks  during  the  summer  months ;  but  when 
fall  came  I  realized  $275.00  out  of  the  pelts  that  I  sold,  and  in 
addition  to  that  I  trapped  outside  so  that  my  net  revenue  for  that 
winter  was  between  $425.00  to  $450.00,  and  I  had  about  150 
skunks,  most  of  them  females,  left  on  the  farm  besides. 

My  farm  consisted  first  of  an  acre  of  ground,  which  I  later 
increased  to  three  acres,  and  the  third  year  before  I  quit  the 
business,  had  six  acres  all  fenced  in.  My  location  was  an  ideal 
one.  I  had  a  regular  triangular  piece  of  ground,  having  a  lake 
on  one  side  and  a  small  creek  on  the  other.  As  above  stated  it 
was  all  fenced.  I  used  a  five-foot  small  mesh  wire  fencing,  with 
posts  six  feet  apart.  The  posts  were  cut  by  myself  from  adjoin- 
ing timber  and  were  seven  to  eight  feet  long.  The  fence  on  land 
was  set  in  center  of  a  ditch,  which  I  made  by  plowing  about  three 
feet  deep  and  about  five  feet  wide.  The  wire  was  one  foot 
below  the  level  of  the  ground  and  I  left  part  of  this  ditch  filled 
with  water  throughout  the  season.  The  posts  were  sawed  off 
even  on  top,  and  on  each  one  I  nailed  a  strip  of  board,  1x6  six- 
teen inches  long  on  which  I  fastened  a  twelve-inch  wide  wire 
netting,  nailed  flat  and  level  with  the  top.  On  top  of  the  fence 
which  stood  in  the  water  I  did  the  same,  excepting  that  I  did 
not  run  the  wire  clear  to  the  ground,  but  managed  to  have  the 
wire  six  to  eight  inches  below  the  level.  On  the  top  the  posts 
were  sawed  even  and  the  twelve-inch  strip  of  galvanized  wire 
fencing  was  stapled  on  the  cleats  so  as  to  keep  the  inhabitants 
from  gaining  their  liberty  if  they  succeeded  in  climbing  the 
fence. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  401 


As  far  as  food  is  concerned,  the  skunk  eats  most  anything, 
but  it  is  not  advisable  to  give  them  too  much  meat.  I  think  ani- 
mals fed  on  a  meat  diet  are  the  ones  that  kill  their  offspring. 
Corn,  apples,  carrots,  and  similar  vegetables  were  the  chief  diet 
during  the  summer  months.  There  was  an  unusually  large  num- 
ber of  frogs  in  the  ditch,  and  of  course  those  skunks  that  were 
near  the  fence  helped  themselves.  Every  week  I  arranged  to 
give  them  some  meat,  which  I  procured  from  the  butchers  and 
hotels  in  the  neighboring  town.  From  the  adjoining  creamery 
I  obtained  skimmed  milk  and  I  always  had  a  good  supply  of  old 
stale  bread  from  the  town,  which  I  got  for  nothing.  The  skunk 
will  eat  fish,  eggs,  etc.,  besides  the  vegetables  heretofore  men- 
tioned, and  everything  in  the  meat  line,  whether  fresh  or  putrid; 
the  latter,  however,  should  be  avoided  as  much  as  possible.  One 
of  the  main  things  is  not  to  overfeed  and  always  have  a  fresh 
supply  of  water  for  the  skunks. 

The  majority  of  the  skunks  were  tame  and  no  matter  into 
what  enclosure  I  went  I  had  no  difficulty,  and  only  on  a  few 
occasions  was  I  unfortunate  enough  to  get  a  few  sprays  of  their 
perfume.  The  skunks  soon  came  to  know  me,  even  the'  wild 
ones  knew  me  after  a  few  weeks,  and  I  was  able  to  go  amongst 
them  with  my  pails  in  which  I  carried  the  food  to  them.  If  I 
had  any  occasion  to  go  into  their  pens  not  having  any  pails,  I 
always  carried  some  bits  of  food,  especially  meat,  which  I  cut  up 
into  one-half  inch  chunks.  When  the  skunk  came  about  me,  I 
distributed  a  few  of  these  pieces.  When  I  did  not  have  any  pails 
I  always  carried  a  stick  and  many  times  was  I  obliged  to  shove 
them  aside  so  as  to  keep  them  from  getting  into  or  out  of  the 
enclosures  as  I  opened  the  gates.  The  dirt  that  I  plowed  out  of 
the  ditch  was  scraped  into  large  piles  in  various  parts  of  the  farm 
and  into  these  the  skunk  burrowed.  In  one  corner  of  each  den  I 
placed  a  box  with  two  enclosures,  which  I  covered  up  with  earth, 
probably  four  to  five  feet  high.  I  also  arranged  an  opening  which 
enabled  me  from  the  outside  of  the  fence  to  look  into  their  dens 
direct.  Many  times  I  congregated  fifty  or  more  females  together 
and  I  found,  much  to  my  surprise,  that  each  one  knew  their  own 
place  of  abode,  which  they  entered  in  the  early  morning  hours. 
However,  there  were  exceptions ;  at  times  when  large  numbers 
were  congregated,  fights  ensued  and  afterwards  I  never  permitted 
as  many  to  come  together. 

When  fall  came  I  paid  especial  attention  to  the  feeding  of 
the  animals.  I  also  supplied  them  with  more  meat  and  those  that 
did  not  do  well  were  kept  separate  and  not  permitted  to  mingle 
with  the  others.  During  the  first  part  of  December,  if  the  weather 
was  cold  and  the  fur  thoroughly  prime,  I  took  a  small  two-wheel 


402 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


wagon  and  four-foot  stick,  which  had  an  iron  on  the  end,  and 
went  into  the  pens  to  kill  such  skunks  that  I  picked  out  for 
slaughter.  When  I  came  to  a  skunk  that  I  wanted  to  kill,  I  hit  it 
a  sharp  rap  over  the  head;  very  seldom  was  I  obliged  to  give  it 
another  rap.  I  then  picked  him  up  and  put  him  in  the  wagon 
and  continued  this  practice  until  the  wagon  was  pretty  well 
filled.  I  managed  to  take  care  of  twenty-five  skunks  a  day,  and 
always  skinned,  scraped  the  fat  off  and  stretched  the  skins  my- 
self. At  first  I  did  not  save  the  glands  or  the  fat;  afterwards 
these  were  all  saved  including  the  galls,  from  which  I  obtained 
quite  a  revenue. 

The  question  of  breeding  and  the  result  of  inter-breeding  does 
not  always  bring  forth  the  same  species.  This  reminds  me  of  one 
particular  female  skunk  that  only  had  a  small  white  star  on  the 
forehead  and  was  bred  to  a  black  furred  skunk,  but  the  little 
ones  were  altogether  differently  furred.  Some  were  short  striped, 
others  long  striped  and  only  two  skunks  resembling  the  father 
or  parent,  were  in  the  litter.  From  my  experience  am  under  the 
opinion  that  if  skunks  are  bred  right,  in  a  period  of  years  the 
individual  species  and  kind  will  be  perpetuated. 

I  also  obtained  bucks  from  a  different  section,  and  if  possible 
larger  in  stature  than  my  native  skunks.  New  blood,  coupled 
with  strong,  well-formed  bodies  of  the  desired  species,  and  those 
that  are  very  healthy,  are  essential,  and  I  further  believe  that 
bucks  should  be  changed  every  year.  I  never  permitted  the  male 
offspring  to  serve  any  of  the  females  on  the  farm. 

When  I  sold  out  last  year  I  had  things  nicely  arranged  and 
by  increasing  the  size  of  the  farm  could  have  had  1,200  to  1,500 
skunks  at  this  time.  If  I  should  go  into  the  business  again,  I 
should  prefer  Minnesota,  Wisconsin  or  Michigan,  and  certainly 
not  further  south  than  Iowa,  Ohio  or  Pennsylvania.  The  skunks 
in  the  north  are  larger,  more  robust,  and  the  weather  is  more 
favorable  to  this  business.  I  herewith  give  you  a  sketch  of  the 
farm  as  I  left  it,  but  I  honestly  believe  the  man  to  whom  I  sold 
will  not  make  a  success,  in  fact  he  and  the  skunks  cannot  get 
along.  I  am  so  situated  now  that  I  cannot  take  up  skunk  farming 
for  a  few  years.    Please  withhold  my  name. 

OPOSSUM  FARMING. 

Opossum  farming  is  a  legitimate  business  and  a  profitable  one. 
They  have  been  raised  on  a  small  scale  as  far  back  as  1873  and 
in  one  instance  a  southern  financier  raised  these  for  a  period  of 
years  quite  extensively.  In  going  into  this  business,  one  should 
study  the  habits  of  the  opossum  and  choose  a  location  that  is 
quite  natural  and  where  the  wild  opossum  does  well.    One  not 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide,  403 


having  any  previous  experience,  must  resist  the  temptation  of 
going  into  the  venture  on  a  large  scale,  and  like  in  all  other  in- 
dustries, sound  and  good  business  judgment  must  be  exercised. 

Location  ^^^^  place  should  be  well  situated;  have  running 
water  and  plenty  of  trees.  To  retain  the  opossum 
in  captivity  on  a  large  scale  requires  a  heavy  expenditure.  An 
ideal  fence  can  be  made  out  of  six-foot  galvanized  wire  fencing. 
The  meshes  should  be  close  and  the  posts  not  farther  than  six 
feet  apart.  The  fencing  should  be  at  least  twelve  inches  below 
level  of  ground.  Top  of  posts  should  be  sawed  off  slantingly  with 
highest  part  of  incline  towards  the  inside  of  the  enclosure.  Upon 
each  post  nail  a  two-by-four,  eighteen  inches  long ;  upon  the  under 
side  fasten  small  mesh  chicken  wire  fencing.  After  you  have 
squared  the  inner  edges  of  the  strips  that  are  nailed  on  the  posts, 
nail  a  one-by-six  board  clear  around  the  fence  perpendicularly  so 
that  the  protruding  edge  looks  downward.  Should  one  find  that 
the  opossum,  after  climbing  the  fence,  can  still  get  out,  a  piece 
of  tin  nailed  on  the  inner  part  of  this  board  clear  around  the 
fence  will  prevent  him  gaining  his  liberty. 

Food  opossum  will  eat  most  any  kind  of  fruit,  vege- 

tables, fish  and  frogs,  but  his  principal  diet  is  meat.  He 
is  not  particular  as  to  the  kind  of  meat,  whether  old  or  fresh.  As 
elsewhere  explained,  he  consumes  large  quantities  of  frogs  and  if 
opportunity  presents,  many  of  the  weaker  rodents.  In  captivity 
he  is  fed  with  sweet  corn,  leavings  from  the  table,  melons  and 
fruit  and  gradually  becomes  accustomed  to  a  milk  and  bread  diet. 
A  small  quantity  of  meat  should  be  given  him  every  day.  This 
may  be  liver,  lungs  or  other  offals  obtained  from  the  butcher.  A 
fresh  supply  of  water  is  very  essential  and  almost  indispensable 
with  the  opossum.  In  addition  to  this  one  must  be  careful  and 
not  overfeed,  especially  the  female.  By  constant  feeding  the 
opossum  becomes  overburdened  with  fat,  extremely  lazy,  and  the 
female  seemingly  inclined  to  shun  the  companionship  of  the  male 
during  the  mating  season  and  quite  often  no  issue  results.  To 
do  well  the  opossum  must  be  active  and  not  overly  fat. 

Pro  a  ation  male  must  be  kept  separate,  but  there  is  no 

and  objection  in  placing  as  many  as  twenty  females 

Breed! n  together.  After  a  time  they  become  tame  and 
being  of  a  playful  disposition,  one  can  amuse 
himself  by  watching  their  maneuvers  in  climbing  trees,  fences, 
etc.  The  opossum  is  very  reproductive,  but  I  cannot  intelligently 
describe  the  manner  in  which  the  young  are  born,  as  they  are 
retained  for  many  weeks  in  the  pouch,  but  after  three  or  four 
weeks  begin  from  time  to  time  to  relax  their  hold  on  the  teats 
and  now  and  then  are  occasionally  seen  to  poke  their  heads  outside 


404         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


the  pouch.  A  Httle  later  on  the  young  venture  to  steal  from 
their  snug  retreat  in  the  pouch  and  are  often  seen  on  the  mother's 
back,  securing  themselves  by  entwining  their  tails  around  hers. 
In  this  way  she  moves  from  place  to  place  in  search  of  food,  car- 
rying her  whole  family  along.  It  cannot  be  denied  that  the 
mother  is  much  attached  to  her  offspring.  She  also  exhibits  a 
considerable  degree  of  courage,  growling  at  the  companions 
should  they  approach  too  closely,  and  as  a  Louisiana  gentleman, 
who  has  experimented  in  raising  opossums  for  the  last  two  years, 
states,  ''that  it  is  quite  essential  to  keep  the  females  separate  as 
much  as  is  possible  when  the  mother  with  her  young  begin  to 
inhabit  the  enclosure  regularly."  The  same  gentleman  states  that 
during  the  period  of  gestation  up  to  the  time  the  young  are  able 
to  take  food  independently  of  the  mother,  she  should  be  pro- 
vided with  an  abundance  of  good,  wholesome  food  and  water; 
as  during  this  period  the  mother  becomes  very  lean,  due  to  her 
giving  sustenance  to  so  large  a  family. 

At  this  period  the  enclosure  can  be  very  small,  as  there  is 
little  danger  that  the  female  will  endeavor  to  escape.  Each  female 
should  have  a  separate  abode.  This  can  be  a  hollow  log  or  box ; 
if  the  latter  it  should  be  covered  up  with  ground  so  as  to  be  cool, 
and  if  consistent  large  quantities  of  brush  should  be  thrown  in 
the  enclosure  and  about  the  abode  so  as  to  resemble  a  natural 
haunt.  One  reason  for  having  many  trees  in  the  enclosure  is  for 
the  purpose  of  having  the  animals  exercise  themselves. 

.  The  opossum  can  probably  be  raised  more  successfully  in  a 
smaller  enclosure  than  can  the  skunk.  It  is  only  a  question  of 
time  when  the  raising  of  skunk,  opossum,  mink  and  fox  will 
become  more  extensive,  and  those  who  have  the  proper  location 
and  devote  considerable  time  and  patience  to  this  industry,  will 
be  able  to  make  it  remunerative.  The  foundation  of  any  business 
should  be  started  on  a  small  scale  and  increase  gradually.  The 
business  is  such  that  one  can  make  a  good  living  and  in  connection 
with  such  a  farm,  a  good  garden  should  be  cultivated,  partly  for 
home  consumption  and  the  remainder  to  be  marketed.  One  must 
not  forget  that  the  revenue  derived  from  opossum  farming  is  not 
alone  from  the  pelt,  but  the  meat  is  salable,  especially  in  the  larger 
cities. 

MINK  FARMING. 

Mr.  Schultz,  a  Canadian  trapper,  has  lately  tried  mink  raising 
with  fairly  good  success.    He  writes  as  follows : 

I  have  chosen  a  place  in  which  there  are  four  large  oak  trees 
and  on  the  side  of  a  small  rivulet.  The  size  of  the  enclosure  is 
about  lOO  by  140  feet ;  I  had  this  all  fenced  in.  I  was  careful 
in  making  the  fence ;  I  took  eight-foot  poles  and  set  them  three 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


405 


feet  in  the  ground.  I  then  dug  out  a  trench  six  inches  wide 
between  the  posts  and  inserted  twelve-inch  boards  on  each  side 
and  filled  this  up  with  stones  over  which  I  poured  cement.  The 
cement  I  made  out  of  fiVe  parts  coarse  sand  and  one  part  cement, 
well  mixed.  The  inner  board  I  left  in  the  ground  and  upon  this 
I  nailed  the  lower  portion  of  the  five-foot  high,  thin-meshed  wire 
fence.  The  posts  were  five  feet  apart,  the  top  sawed  ofif  slantingly 
four  feet  and  ten  inches  from  the  ground.  On  the  posts  I  nailed 
boards  six  inches  wide  all  along  the  fence.  On  top  of  these 
boards  and  immediately  over  the  posts  I  nailed  eighteen-inch 
long  pieces  of  two-by-four,  pointing  inward  to  the  enclosure.  I 
was  very  careful  that  the  inner  edges  of  these  strips  were  even. 
After  this  was  all  completed  I  started  to  nail  the  wire  fencing 
on  the  posts,  also  on  the  board  that  was  sticking  twelve  inches 
in  the  ground  and  as  the  wire  was  three  inches  wider  than  the 
length  of  the  posts,  I  had  sufficient  for  a  lap  which  I  bent  and 
securely  fastened  on  the  six-inch  top  rail  board.  After  this  was 
completed  I  procured  eighteen-inch  wide,  close-meshed  chicken 
wire  fencing  which  I  nailed  on  the  inner  part  of  the  two-by-four 
strip,  finally  finishing  the  enclosure  by  nailing  a  six-inch  board  on 
the  edges  of  the  two-by-four,  so  that  the  four  inches  clear  pointed 
perpendicularly  into  the  fenced  field.  I  have  not  found  a  mink 
that  would  get  out.  This  six-inch  board  keeps  them  from  getting 
on  top  of  the  over-hanging  wire.  The  fence  is  so  strong  that  no 
matter  what  kind  of  a  wind  comes  along,  it  will  withstand  it.  Of 
course  the  mink  try  to  get  out  through  the  meshes  and  often 
succeed  in  twisting  the  meshes  with  their  mouths. 

I  sub-divide  this  enclosure  into  smaller  ones,  but  am  not  so 
careful  in  the  construction  of  these  thinner  fences  as  I  am  on  the 
outside  one,  with  the  exception  of  where  I  keep  the  male  minks ; 
this  is  made  equally  as  good.  Last  spring  I  started  with  six  large 
females,  one  large  buck  and  thirty  to  thirty-five  young  cubs.  One 
of  the  females  disappeared  and  even  to  this  day  I  do  not  know 
what  became  of  her.  The  females  were  placed  in  two  separate 
enclosures  and  the  buck  was  fenced  up  all  by  himself.  For  the 
greatest  part  of  the  time  until  fall  the  young  were  put  altogether, 
but  at  that  period  I  found  they  were  fighting  considerably  and  I 
was  obliged  to  separate  the  males  from  the  females.  This  necessi- 
tated my  putting  the  large  females  together  into  one  pen  so  as 
to  be  able  to  have  a  place  to  receive  the  twelve  3^oung  male  minks. 
The  season  passed  without  any  of  them  dying  ofif.  During  the 
fall  I  was  able  to  increase  my  holdings  by  capturing  in  a  box 
trap  another  female. 

I  fed  the  mink  almost  entirely  with  meat  and  to  those  away 
from  the  rivulet  I  carried  two  pails  of  water  every  day  and  during 


406 


A.nderscli  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


the  summer  months  four  pailfuls  each  day.  In  the  intermediate 
time  I  also  fed  them  with  milk,  bread,  fish,  etc. 

I  dug  a  deep  hole  into  which  I  placed  a  box,  having  one  par- 
tition in  the  center  with  an  opening  through  which  the  mink  could 
travel.  After  setting  this  in  the  ground  I  made  it  fairly  level, 
excepting  the  box  which  protruded  about  ten  inches  above.  Over 
this  I  carried  a  large  pile  of  brush,  using  care  to  leave  a  small 
opening  through  which  the  mink  could  get  into  the  box  if  they 
so  desired.  A  large  part  of  the  time  was  employed  by  the  mink 
in  climbing  trees.  On  one  occasion  I  fed  them  with  live  perch. 
These  I  permitted  to  swim  in  their  troughs,  but  just  as  soon  as  I 
was  absent  the  mink  came  eagerly  to  the  trough,  evidently  smell- 
ing the  fish.  Watching  them  from  a  distance,  it  appeared  to  me, 
that  they  acted  just  as  hogs  do  in  grabbing  for  food.  Evidently 
they  did  not  use  their  paws  but  grabbed  the  fish  with  their  mouths. 

During  the  latter  part  of  December  I  killed  nine  of  the  young 
bucks.  The  skins  were  pretty  fair  but  not  as  well  furred,  nor 
were  the  guard  hairs  as  perfect,  as  on  those  that  I  caught  in  the 
wild  state.    However  I  realized  the  same  price  for  them. 

When  mating  season  came,  I  obtained  a  large  number  of  wild 
females,  also  three  males,  which  I  dug  out  of  their  dens  and  put 
into  two  enclosures.  Knowing  the  habits  of  the  animal,  I  pre- 
pared additional  abodes  for  the  females.  I  then  went  to  work 
and  placed  a  buck  in  each  pen  where  the  females  were  and  left 
them  there  a  few  days.  I  changed  the  bucks  every  other  day  and 
in  about  ten  days  put  the  bucks  in  their  enclosure.  Not  wishing 
to  keep  the  old  bucks  for  a  longer  period,  I  killed  them  and  sold 
their  skins  and  realized  a  fair  price.  The  season  progressed  fairly 
well  and  I  have  had  no  particular  trouble  except  once  in  a  while 
a  few  fights.  During  May  each  female  brought  forth  from  three 
to  five  young,  with  the  exception  of  one  which  did  not  become 
pregnant.  You  can  readily  see  that  I  had  my  hands  full  then.  I 
expect  that  these  will  summer  through  all  right  and  when  next 
winter  comes  I  will  have  at  least  fifty  to  kill  besides  retaining 
seventy-five  or  more  young  and  old. 

Had  I  permitted  the  males  to  remain  with  the  females  after 
they  had  their  young,  I  am  sure  the  latter  would  have  been 
killed.  Have  not  observed  any  particular  disease,  and  as  a 
matter  of  fact  do  not  see  the  mink  very  much  during  the  day  time 
unless  in  the  early  morning  or  towards  evening,  when  they  get 
on  the  trees.  Many  times  I  observed  when  one  or  more  birds 
had  lit  on  the  trees,  especially  the  larger  kind,  one  or  more  of  the 
minks  would  sneak  towards  the  trunk,  gradually  climb  up  and 
try  to  capture  the  bird.  In  this  they  are  quicker  than  a  cat  and 
probably  more  successful. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


407 


I  make  a  habit  of  setting  wire  rat  traps  near  the  stables  in 
which  I  capture  house  rats.  Having  succeeded  in  capturing  one, 
the  door  is  opened  and  the  rat  jumps  into  the  enclosure,  and  in  a 
few  moments  one  of  the  minks  will  grab  it  by  the  neck  and 
carry  it  away.  Think  that  a  large  house  rat  stands  less  show  of 
getting  away  from  a  mink  than  from  a  house  cat. 

In  killing  the  mink  I  find  that  a  small  22  calibre  rifle  is  suffi- 
cient. In  fact  a  good  air  gun  would  kill  them;  of  course  I  can 
get  within  a  few  feet  of  the  mink  and  the  bullet  must  strike  side 
of  the  head;  otherwise  the  small  BB  shot  would  not  penetrate 
the  skull. 

Mink  Farm. 

I  give  you  my  successful  method  of  domesticating  and  raising 
the  mink.  Also  how  to  capture  the  old  and  young  so  as  to  get  a 
start. 

The  time  to  secure  the  young  mink  is  in  May  or  June  when 
they  are  beginning  to  run  with  their  dams.  The  stream  along 
which  they  run  must  be  quietly  watched  until  you  have  located 
their  trail  and  tracked  them  to  their  den.  When  you  have  located 
the  den,  you  must  be  careful  to  capture  or  kill  the  old  one  first; 
otherwise  she  will  carry  them  away.  Either  proceed  to  dig  them 
out  or  capture  them  in  box  traps. 

A  successful  breeder  stated  to  me  that  he  does  not  attempt  to 
tame  the  wild  animals,  but  only  aims  to  supply  them  with  such 
necessities  as  are  required.  The  food,  as  we  all  know,  consists 
chiefly  of  fish  and  meats,  and  especially  the  meat  of  the  musk- 
rat.  The  mating  season  begins  the  first  of  March  and  lasts  about 
two  weeks,  never  varying  much  from  that  date  in  any  one  locality. 
The  female  carries  her  young  about  six  weeks.  In  the  minkery, 
where  the  diet,  water  and  conditions  in  general  are  more  even, 
the  mating  season  is  more  periodical,  and  in  consequence  the 
young  of  the  different  females  are  born  the  same  day,  or  at 
farthest  a  day  apart.  One  party  who  had  six  females  stated 
that  the  young  were  born  within  twelve  hours.  The  young  are 
blind  from  four  to  five  weeks,  but  very  active  and  playful  as 
kittens.  The  mother  weans  them  from  eight  to  ten  weeks;  after 
four  weeks  the  mother  begins  to  feed  them  meat  which  the  young 
suck  until  they  have  teeth.  The  nest  is  made  in  some  old  stump 
or  hollow  log  and  is  nicely  padded  out  with  soft  materials  and 
always  in  a  locality  where  the  nest  will  remain  dry.  I  have  seen 
the  mother  remove  the  young  from  the  nest  for  the  simple  reason 
that  the  nest  had  become  foul ;  she  finds  another  suitable  place  in 
which  the  young  are  deposited,  she  carrying  one  at  a  time  in  her 
mouth.  The  mother  will  care  for  them  until  they  are  three  and 
a  half  to  four  months  old.    There  are  usually  four  in  a  litter. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


409 


Towards  fall  the  mother  separates  them  into  two  pairs,  or  if  the 
number  be  odd,  the  one  is  left  in  the  nest  and  the  other  pair  or 
pairs  are  placed  half  a  mile  from  each  other  and  she  decamps 
and  looks  for  them  no  more ;  on  the  other  hand  gets  a  different 
abode  altogether. 

When  the  young  are  six  weeks  old  they  should  be  taken  from 
the  mother  and  put  in  a  pen  by  themselves.  After  a  few  days 
they  become  accustomed  to  their  surroundings  and  begin  to  play. 
The  inner  shelter  should  be  in  a  box  five  to  six  feet  wide  and  three 
to  four  feet  high,  somewhat  raised  from  the  ground.  The  box 
should  contain  at  least  one  partition  with  openings  through  which 
they  can  enter.  This  box  should  be  placed  within  a  thin  meshed, 
but  strong  enclosure.  On  top  of  the  posts  boards  should  be  nailed 
so  as  to  over-reach  at  least  fifteen  inches  from  the  fence.  If 
you  find  that  the  mink  is  likely  to  get  away  by  getting  his  claws 
into  these  boards,  line  them  with  tin  underneath.  The  pen  should 
also  contain  a  large  trough  which  can  be  made  by  nailing  three 
boards  together.  Have  one  side  of  the  trough  higher  than  the 
other  so  that  the  animal  can  get  into  the  water  if  it  wants  to.  It 
will  also  enable  you  to  draw  the  water  off  as  often  as  desired. 
Each  enclosure  should  contain  a  small  box  in  which  the  animal 
can  be  driven  and  shut  up  during  the  time  the  pen  is  cleaned. 

It  is  quite  necessary  to  have  an  abundance  of  pure  soft  water, 
also  plenty  of  shade.  This  can  be  obtained  by  bringing  the  en- 
closure below  a  tree  or  to  have  parts  of  the  trunk  of  the  tree 
inside  the  enclosure.  Unless  the  mink  has  a  shady  enclosure  the 
fur  will  be  pale  and  not  become  dark. 

A  quart  ofs:  milk  once  a  day  with  some  wheat  bread  broken 
fine  in  it,  is  sufficient  for  twelve  to  fifteen  minks,  but  each  mink 
should  have  some  meat  besides  the  above  mush,  at  least  once  a 
day.  In  captivity  one  must  keep  the  male  away  from,  the  female 
most  of  the  time,  and  especially  after  the  young  are  born,  as  the 
buck  will  kill  the  young  if  he  gets  a  chance. 

June  3,  1906.  Louis  Shook, 

Sperrard,  W.  Va. 

FOX  FARMING. 

The  fox  can  be  successfully  raised  in  captivity ;  this  has  been 
demonstrated  numerous  times  and  with  satisfactory  results ;  no 
less  than  fifteen  farms  are  in  operation,  or  were  during  1905. 

To  obtain  definite  and  inside  information  from  the  most  sug- 
cessful  breeders  is  hard  to  do ;  those  that  raise  black,  silver  and 
cross  foxes  for  their  pelts,  are  close-mouthed,  resulting  in  little 
information  from  such  sources.  Another  reason  is  that 
the  farms  are  located  in  some  obscure  part  of  the  country,  many 
in  Canada,  Alaska  and  on  islands  in  the  Pacific  ocean. 


410 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


Near  Edmonton  there  resides  an  old  man  who  has  devoted 
ten  years  or  more  to  raising  the  silver  fox.  On  being  ap- 
proached, he  disliked  being  communicative,  especially  since  the 
information  was  to  be  published.  The  following  is  the  essence  of 
his  explanations : 

The  silver  fox  can  be  raised  in  northern  climates,  but  must 
not  be  confined  in  any  unnatural  enclosure.  No  attempt  should 
te  made  to  tame  the  silver  fox  as  he  cannot  be  tamed  in  a  period 
of  years  unless  forced  to  live  in  some  artificial  abode  when  the 
skin  would  have  little  or  no  value. 


Time  Well  Spent 

Silver,  Cross  and  Red  Fox  From  Nat'l  Sportsman 


His  farm  was  on  an  island  of  400  to  500  acres  and  that  was 
much  too  small  in  his  opinion.  He  declined  to  state  where  his 
farm  was,  but  recommended  any  small  uninhabited  island  ofif 
British  Columbia  or  Alaska,  in  the  Pacific  ocean.  His  reason  was 
that  the  fox  taken  there  cannot  get  away  as  the  salt  water  does 
not  freeze.  Islands  between  the  Slave  Lake  and  the  Great  Slave 
Lake  in  the  Northwest  Territory  are  also  good,  but  one  must 
drive  the  fox,  when  extreme  winter  sets  in,  into  some  large  fenced 
enclosure;  otherwise  they  will  escape  ofif  the  island. 

The  fox  should  not  be  molested  in  the  l^ast.  In  fact,  avoid 
them  as  much  as  you  can.    Do  not  let  them  know  of  your  exist- 


Andersch  Bros/  JIunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  411 

ence.  Do  not  hunt,  or  try  to  see  how  they  are  getting  along ;  let 
them  go  it  alone.  Let  them  depend  upon  the  food  of  the  island, 
but  if  you  find  tjiat  game  is  getting  short  and  food  scarce,  give 
them  fish  and  meats  of  various  sorts  which  place  in  some  con- 
spicuous part  where  the  foxes  are  likely  to  come  up  to  it.  Fish 
and  fat  in  connection  with  some  flour  boiled  together,  makes  good 
food  for  the  fox.  Always  have  a  supply  of  dried  fish,  venison 
and  rabbits  stored  for  them,  so  as  to  provide  them  with  food 
during  a  severe  storm. 

As  to  raising  them  he  had  little  to  say.  ''Let  them  •:  ^  it 
alone,''  was  his  favorite  reply.  Nevertheless  when  the  pelts  .:2rc 
prime  he  took  pains  to  kill  only  the  males.  He  also  imported  two 
or  three  male  foxes  from  the  mainland  every  year,  which  he 
captured  in  dug-outs,  besides  females,  if  they  were  of  the  right 
kind ;  otherwise  he  killed  them  for  their  pelts. 

His  ideas  relative  to  the  various  species  and  uneven  results 
from  breeding,  also  manner  of  breeding,  were  different  from  those 
observed  by  others  up  to  date.  ''Let  them  have  their  natural  way ; 
disregard  as  to  whether  there  are  more  males  than  females. They 
will  mate  themselves,  and  if  they  do  not,  you  should  not  be  the 
wiser.  The  more  you  try  to  find  out  the  less  you  will  know,''  and 
other  similar  answers  were  given  to  questions.  Never  kill  a  fox 
for  his  pelt  until  he  has  passed  a  part  of  his  second  winter.  Kill 
the  off-colored  ones  first ;  do  not  let  them  breed  with  the  black  or 
silver. 

Summing  up  in  substance  he  believed  that  the  silver  fox  can 
be  domesticated  but  that  in  so  doing  one  must  give  them  a  wide 
strip  of  territory  in  which  to  travel  and  not  molest  them  in  any 
way.  He  had  an  idea  that  no  different  or  like  results  can  be  ob- 
tained in  breeding  so  as  to  result  in  one  species  right  along  until 
a  period  of  years  has  elapsed,  when  all  off-colored  specimens  were 
removed  and  kept  separate,  so  that  no  other  male  would  have 
access  to  the  female  at  any  time  of  the  year.  He  also  thought  that 
the  silver  and  cross  fox  were  not  a  true  species,  but  the  result 
of  interbreeding  between  the  red  and  black  foxes. 

Silver  fox  breeding  has  not  been  successful  on  an  island  in 
the  upper  Mississippi  river,  probably  for  the  reason  that  the  fox 
decamped  during  the  winter  time.  Some  returned,  others  did 
not. 

The  silver  and  cross  fox  are  bred  in  numerous  parts  of 
islands  off  of  Alaska  and  British  Columbia,  also  on  some  of  the 
islands  along  the  Alaskian  peninsula  and  off  the  mainland  between 
Dixon  sound  and  Cook  inlet.  It  is  claimed  that  silver  and  black 
foxes  are  domesticated  on  the  numerous  islands  north  of  the 
Hudson  Bay  and  west  of  Baffin  Bay. 


412 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


Would  not  recommend  anyone  to  try  to  raise  silver  and  cross 
foxes  even  in  Minnesota,  unless  in  the  extreme  northern  part  of 
the  state,  probably  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Lake  of  the  Woods,  or 
along  Rainy  River,  Rainy  Lake  and  to  Port  Arthur.  Undoubt- 
edly the  mountainous  regions  in  the  western  part  of  Ontario  are 
very  suitable,  due  to  the  numerous  lakes,  and  very  likely  islands 
of  sufficient  size  can  be  found  where  the  fox  undoubtedly  would 
thrive. 

Red  foxes  like  the  wolf,  can  be  domesticated  with  ease,  but 
the  skins  usually  are  of  little  value  due  to  their  being  badly 
rubbed;  but  if  the  animal  is  not  confined  to  a  small  locality  but 
permitted  to  roam  at  will,  the  fur  does  not  become  matted  and 
rubbed,  consequently  the  skin  brings  a  fair  price. 

THE  LETTERS  BELOW  REPEODTJCED  ARE 
SELP-EXPLANATORY. 

Note — Letters  V^ere  Written  Five  Years  Ago, 

Minneapolis,  Minn.,  May  7th,  1901. 

Mr.  M.  L.  Washburn, 

Manager  Semidi  Propagating  Co., 
Kodiak,  Alaska. 
Dear  Sir : — 

We  have  more  or  less  inquiry  as  to  the  manner  of  breeding, 
mode  of  living  and  the  general  character,  behaviour,  etc.,  of 
cross,  silver  and  black  foxes,  and  are  often  in  the  dark  as  to 
the  corect  answers. 

We  handle  100  to  500  cross,  silver  and  black  fox  skins  every 
year  and  we  draw  our  supply  chiefly  from  Canada,  therefore,  are 
thoroughly  conversant  with  the  valuation  of  such  skins  and  the 
general  use  same  are  made  of  both  here  and  in  Europe. 

As  you  have  had  long  experience  and  are  familiar  with  the 
manner  of  breeding,  etc.,  will  you  kindly  favor  us  with  such 
information  to  clear  our  minds  of  the  uncertainty.  Some  of  the 
following  questions  are  often  asked  us.  Will  you  kindly  favor  us 
with  correct  and  proper  answers? 

Can  silver,  cross  or  black  fox  be  successfully  raised  in  cap- 
tivity? 

What  kind  and  how  many  foxes  have  you  ? 
On  what  do  the  foxes  live? 

How  do  they  retain  their  identity  if  living  together,  that  is 
silver,  cross  and  black  foxes?    Or  are  they  kept  apart? 

How  often  do  foxes  bear  young  ones  and  how  many  at  a 
time? 

Do  you  know  the  respective  relation  of  a  silver  fox  to  a 
black  fox  or  are  they  entirely  distinct  species? 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  413 


Is  a  cross  fox  the  result  of  breeding  between  a  common 
red  fox  and  silver  or  black  fox? 

For  what  purpose  do  you  raise  the  animals? 

Do  you  raise  them  for  the  pelts  entirely  or  do  you  sell  them 
alive,  and  if  you  do,  how  much  do  you  offer  them  at?  Any  and 
all  information  that  you  can  favor  us  with  will  be  cheerfully  re- 
ceived and  we  shall  certainly  feel  under  obligations  to  you. 

Should  you  desire  any  information  pertaining  to  the  fur  trade, 
or  any  other  industry  located  in  the  Northwest,  we  shall  be  pleased 
indeed  to  answer  any  and  all  such  questions  in  our  power. 

You  will,  herewith,  enclosed  find  stamped  envelope.  Kindly 
favor  us  with  a  prompt  reply.         We  are. 

Very  respectfully, 
(Signed)       ''Andersch  Bros.'" 


SEMEDI  PROPAGATING  CO. 

Andersch  Bros.,  Kodiak,  Alaska,  July  29th,  190 1. 

Minneapolis,  Minn. 
Gentlemen : — We  have  to  apologize  for  the  delay  in  answering 
your  favor  of  May  7th,  as  the  writer  was  absent  at  the  time  and 
the  letter  awaited  his  arrival.  Having  been  in  the  fox  propaga- 
tion for  fully  fourteen  years, — and  during  that  time  it  has  as- 
sumed considerable  proportions — we  are  still  at  a  loss  to  answer 
many  of  your  questions  as  we  feel  sure  you  would  like  them 
answered. 

Question  No.  i.  We  are  free  to  confess  that  with  us  the  silver 
and  black  fox  have  never  been  successfully  raised  although  some 
of  the  members  of  our  company  have  and  are  successfully  raising 
them  in  the  east. 

Question  No.  2.  We  are  now  raising  the  blue  fox  exclusively 
on  the  islands  of  North  Semedi,  South  Semedi,  Ukamok  (or 
Cherikoff),  and  Long  Island,  also  Whale  Island,  and  at  a  rough 
guess,  after  the  usual  precaution  of  marking  and  killing  has  been 
taken,  it  is  safe  to  say  we  have  in  the  vicinity  of  six  thousand 
foxes. 

Question  No.  3.  Besides  the  food  that  nature  provides  in  the 
way  of  ''beach  wash''  and  birds,  the  artificial  food  furnished  them 
is  of  a  varied  sort — dried  fish,  salt  fish,  fresh  fish  (in  localities 
where  it  can  be  had),  corn  meal,  tallow,  salt  sea  lion  and  whale, 
etc.,  etc. — although  the  best  food  has  been  found  to  be  a  sort  of 
mush  made  from  corn  meal  and  tallow  with  dried  fish  for  the 
breeding  season  when  they  can't  transport  the  mush  to  the  bur- 
rows for  the  young  or  the  female  who  always  stays  by  the  young 
for  several  days,  being  supplied  by  the  male  fox  at  such  times. 


414 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


Question  No.  4.  We  have  never  allowed  them  to  run  to- 
gether, as  they  are  so  closely  allied  that  they  would  easily  lose 
their  identity,  that  is,  they  would  interbreed  until  neither  of  the 
original  bloods  remained,  or  at  least  we  are  led  to  believe  so  from 
what  we  have  observed  and  read. 

Question  No.  5.  Foxes  breed  once  each  year,  begininng  about 
February  ist  to  mate,  and  bearing  young  in  early  May  and  June. 
They  have  been  known  to  have  as  many  as  ten  young  in  one 
litter,  but  three  to  six  is  the  usual  run. 

Question  No.  6.  The  silver  fox  is  said  to  be  a  cross  between 
the  Arctic  or  white  fox  and  the  black,  the  cross  fox  to  be  a  cross 
between  the  black  and  red  fox. 

Question  No.  7.  We  raise  the  foxes  for  their  pelts,  but  are 
also  willing  to  sell  them  alive,  holding  them  at  $110.00  per  pair 
at  owner's  or  purchaser's  risk  in  shipping.  A  better  rate  might 
be  made  on  any  number  of  them  by  writing  the  secretary  of  our 
company  on  the  subject  (the  officers  of  which  will  be  found 
below). 

Fox  raising  in  general  has  become  a  great  industry,  and  while 
in  its  infancy  as  yet,  it  bids  fair  to  become  a  profitable  one.  The 
islands  used  for  the  breeding  of  foxes  are  leased  from  the  gov- 
ernment, and  prior  to  the  passing  of  the  homestead  act  for  Alaska, 
were  exempted  for  the  sole  purpose  of  the  industry,  that  is,  all 
islands  leased  prior  to  1898.  Any  further  information  in  our 
power  will  be  cheerfully  given. 

Very  truly  yours. 
Signed  ''Semedi  Propagating  Company. 

''A.  C.  Goss,  Manager." 

Fox  Farming  in  Alaska. 

The  following  is  an  extract  from  the  Governor's  report  of 
Alaska  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior : 

''This  is  being  tried  at  many  places.  Most  of  those  who  are 
trying  it  confine  their  efforts  to  the  blue  fox.  Those  who  are 
trying  the  black  and  silver  fox  have  not  met  with  much  success. 
The  habits  of  this  animal  seem  to  defy  domesticity.  The  blue 
fox  is  more  easily  dealt  with.  They  do  fairly  well  upon  the  Pribi- 
lof  Islands.  This  last  season  232  were  taken  up  on  St.  George. 
Mr.  Applegate,  of  Unalaska,  has  succeeded  better  than  anyone 
else.  The  skins,  which  he  sent  to  London,  were  the  best  and 
brought  the  highest  price.  His  ranch  is  west  of  Dutch  Harbor, 
near  Umnak  Island.  Some  of  those  who  are  experimenting  in 
this  business  feed  the  foxes  and  ship  in  tons  of  meal  and  other 
food.  It  is  quite  certain  that  the  same  care  and  energy  given  to 
the  stock  raising  would  bring  in  sure  and  richer  returns  to  most 
of  those  who  are  engaged  in  it." 


How  to  Obtain  a  Copy  of  the 

STATE  GAME  AND  FISH  LAWS 

of  the  Various  States  and  Territories. 

STATE  AND  NATIONAL  GAME  AND  FISH  LAWS  are  subject  to 
changes  from  year  to  year  and  for  this  and  other  reasons  it  is  advisable  for 
Hunters  to  familiarize  themselves  with  the  existing  laws  before  starting  out 
to  hunt. 

DEER,  ELK,  ANTELOPE  and  similar  animals  are  protected  in  all  States 
and  can  only  be  legally  killed  for  a  short  period  in  each  year. 

FUR  BEARING  ANIMALS,  excepting  Beaver  and  probably  a  few  other 
animals,  can  be  be  legally  killed  during  the  winter  season  in  most  all  States 
and  Territories  as  very  few  animals  are  protected  by  law,  and  the  skins  of 
such  animals  legally  captured  can  also  be  shipped  out  of  the  State. 

BOUNTY  is  paid  for  the  capture  of  Bear,  Lynx,  Wild  Cat,  Wolf,  Cou- 
gar, Mountain  Lion  and  other  ferocious  animals  in  nearly  every  State  and 
Territory,  and  sometimes  by  individual  counties.  The  payment  of  these 
Bounties  is  regulated  by  law. 

GEESE,  DUCKS,  CHICKENS,  GROUSE  and  other  feathered  birds  aVe 
protected  and  the  killing  regulated  by  law  in  all  States.  The  Game  Laws  in 
most  States  provide  severe  penalties  for  the  killing,  capturing  or  intention 
to  kill  such  birds,  or  having  possession  of  same  out  of  season. 

LICENSES  are  required  in  nearly  every  State  for  hunting  birds  and  high 
game.  Fur  bearing  animals  can  be  legally  trapped  in  most  all  States  and  no 
license  is  required.  The  privilege  of  hunting  can  be  had  by  residents  for 
25c.  to  $1.00  and  up.  Non-residents  are  usually  compelled  to  pay  $5.00  to 
$25.00,  and  in  certain  States  non-residents  are  debarred  by  law  from  hunting. 

SHIPPING  GAME  OR  HIDES  out  of  the  State  is  regulated  by  law— the 
laws  varying  in  nearly  every  State — and  Hunters  should  familiarize  them- 
selves before  offering  Game  for  shipment.  Deer  skins  can  be  legally  shipped 
out  of  most  States  during  the  season  if  accompanied  by  a  License  coupon. 
Fur  skins  can  be  shipped  in  and  out  of  the  various  States  though  some  ex- 
ception is  made  to  such  skins  that  come  from  animals  that  are  illegally 
captured. 

COPY  OF  THE  GAME  LAWS  in  pamphlet  form  can  be  had  by  applying 
to  the  Governor  of  the  respective  State  or  by  addressing  the  State  Game  and 
Fish  Warden  or  the  State  Game  and  Fish  Commissioners  at  the  Capitol  of 
the  State  or  Territory.  The  U.  S.  Government  issues  in  pamphlet  form  the 
Game  Laws  of  the  various  States  carefully  tabulated,  as  well  as  the  Na- 
tional Laws.  The  information  contained  in  these  bulletins  is  very  com- 
prehensive and  complete,  and  any  one  contemplating  hunting  outside  of  his 
own  State,  should  procure  one  of  these  bulletins.  It  gives  the  Game  Laws, 
Licenses  required,  how  Licenses  are  obtained,  and  price  of  same,  how  Game 
can  be  legally  shipped  and  other  valuable  information.  Any  one  wanting  one 
of  these  bulletins  should  write  to  the  U.  S.  Dept  of  Agriculture,  Washington, 
D.  C,  requesting  the  latest  bulletin  pertaining  to  the  Game  Laws  of  the 
various  States  and  Territories  in  the  United  States. 

A  Copy  of  the  State  Game  Laws  can  be  had  by  addressnig  His  Excellency, 
The  Governor,  of  the  respective  State  at  the  Executive  Seat  or  Capitol,  or  by 
addressing  the  following  officials: 

State  Fish  and  Game  Commissioner  Augusta,  Maine. 

Commissioner  of  Fisheries  and  Game  Columbus,  Indiana. 

Fish  and  Game  Commissioners  Concord,  New  Hampshire. 

State  Game  and  Fish  Warden  Madison,  Wisconsin. 

Game  and  Fish  Warden  Hinton,  West  Virginia. 

Secretary  of  State  Cheyenne,  Wyoming. 

State  Board  of  Game  and  Fish  Commissioners   St.  Paul,  Minnesota. 

Chief  Deputy  (Lincoln)  or  Supt.  of  Hatcheries  (South  Bend)  Nebraska. 

State  Game   and   Fish   Commissioner  Denver,  Colorado. 

State  Game  Warden  Cedar   Rapids,  Iowa. 

State  Game  Wardens   at   Grand    Forks   and... Valley    City,    North  Dakota. 

State  Game  and  Fish  Commissioners  Salt  Lake  City,  Utah. 

State  Game  and  Fish  Commissioners   Columbus,  Ohio. 

State  Game  and  Fish  Commissioner   Montpelier,  Vermont. 

State  Game  Commissioner  Roscoe,  Illinois. 

State  Game  Warden   Hagerman,  Idaho. 

Fish  and  Game  Commissioners  Boston,  Massachusetts. 

State  Game  and  Fish  Warden  Helena,  Montana. 

Forest,  Fish  and  Game  Commission  Albany,  New  York. 

Game  and  Forestry  Warden  Portland,  Oregon. 

Fish  and  Game  Commissioners  Long  Branch,  New  Jersey. 

United  States  Department  of  Agriculture  Washington,  D.  C. 

Game  and  Fish  Warden  Oklahoma  City,  Oklahoma  Territory. 


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UNITED  STATES  GAME  LAWS 


THE  LACEY  ACT. 


31  Statutes  at  Large,  pp.  187-189. 


CHAP.  553. — AN  ACT  to  enlarge  the  powers  of  the  Department  of  Agriculture, 
prohibit  the  transportation  by  interstate  commerce  of  game  killed  in 
violation  of  local  laws,  and  for  other  purposes. 

Be  it  enacted  ty  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives  of  the  United 
States  of  America  in  Congress  assembled.  That  the  duties  and  powers  of  the 
Department  of  Ag-riculture  are  hereby  enlarged  so  as  to  include  the  preserva- 
tion, distribution,  introduction,  and  restoration  of  game  birds  and  other  wild 
birds.  The  Secretary  of  Agriculture  is  hereby  authorized  to  adopt  such  meas- 
ures as  may  be  necessary  to  carry  out  the  purposes  of  this  act  and  to  pur- 
chase such  game  birds  and  other  wild  birds  as  may  be  required  therefor, 
subject,  however,  to  the  laws  of  the  various  States  and  Territories.  The 
object  and  purpose  of  this  act  is  to  aid  in  the  restoration  of  such  birds  in 
those  parts  of  the  United  States  adapted  thereto  where  the  same  have  be- 
come scarce  or  extinct,  and  also  to  regulate  the  introduction  of  American  or 
foreign  birds  or  animals  in  localities  where  they  have  not  heretofore  existed. 

The  Secretary  of  Agriculture  shall  from  time  to  time  collect  and  publish 
useful  information  as  to  the  propagation,  uses,  and  preservation  of  such 
birds. 

And  the  Secretary  of  Ag-riculture  shall  make  and  publish  all  needful 
rules  and  regulations  for  carrying  out  the  purposes  of  this  act,  and  shall  ex- 
pend for  said  purposes  such  sums  as  Congress  may  appropriate  therefor. 

IMPORTATION:  Sec.  2.  That  it  shall  be  unlawful  for  any  person  or 
persons  to  import  into  the  United  States  any  foreign  wild  animal  or  bird 
except  under  special  permit  from  the  United  States  Department  of  Agri- 
culture: Provided.  That  nothing  in  this  section  shall  restrict  the  importation 
of  natural  history  specimens  for  museums  or  scientific  collections,  or  the 
importation  of  certain  cage  birds,  such  as  domesticated  canaries,  parrots,  or 
such  other  species  as  the  Secretary  of  Agriculture  may  designate,  a 

PROHIBITED  SPECIES:  The  importation  of  the  mongoose,  the  so- 
called  "flying  foxes"  or  fruit  bats,  the  English  sparrow,  the  starling,  or  such 
other  birds  or  animals  as  the  Secretary  of  Agriculture  may  from  time  to  time 
declare  injurious  to  the  interest  of  agriculture  or  horticulture  is  hereby  pro- 
hibited, and  such  species  upon  arrival  at  any  of  the  ports  of  the  United 
States  shall  be  destroyed  or  returned  at  the  expense  of  the  owner.  The 
Secretary  of  the  Treasury  is  hereby  authorized  to  make  regulations  for 
carrying  into  effect  the  provisions  of  this  section.  1) 

SHIPMENT:  Sec.  3.  That  it  shall  be  unlawful  for  any  person  or  per- 
sons to  deliver  to  any  common  carrier,  or  for  any  common  carrier  to  trans- 
port from  one  State  or  Territory  to  another  State  or  Territory,  or  from  the 
District  of  Columbia  or  Alaska  to  any  State  or  Territory,  or  from  any  State 
or  Territory  to  the  District  of  Columbia  or  Alaska,  any  foreign  animals  or 
birds  the  importation  of  which  is  prohibited,  or  the  dead  bodies  or  parts 
thereof  of  any  wild  animals  or  birds,  where  such  animals  or  birds  have  been 
killed  in  violation  of  the  laws  of  the  State,  Territory,  or  District  in  which 
the  same  were  killed:  Provided.  That  nothing  herein  shall  prevent  the 
transportation  of  any  dead  birds  or  animals  killed  during  the  season  when 
the  same  may  be  lawfully  captured,  and  the  export  of  which  is  not  pro- 
hibited by  law  in  the  State,  Territory,  or  District  in  which  the  same  are 
killed. 

MARKING  PACKAGES:  Sec.  4.  That  all  packages  containing  such 
dead  animals,  birds,  or  parts  thereof,  when  shipped  by  interstate  commerce, 
as  provided  in  section  1  of  this  act,  shall  be  plainly  and  clearly  marked,  so 
that  the  name  and  address  of  the  shipper  and  the  nature  of  the  contents  may 
be  readily  ascertained  on  inspection  of  the  outside  of  such  packages. 

PENALTIES:  For  each  invasion  or  violation  of  this  act  the  shipper 
shall,  upon  conviction,  pay  a  fine  of  not  exceeding  $200;  and  the  consignee 
knowingly  receiving  such  articles  so  shipped  and  transported  in  violation  of 
this  act  shall,  upon  conviction,  pay  a  fine  of  not  exceeding  $200:  and  the 
carrier  knowingly  carrying  or  transporting  the  same  shall,  upon  conviction, 
pay  a  fine  of  not  exceeding  $200. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide, 


419 


Game  lyaws— Continued. 

IMPORTED   SPECIES   SUBJECT   TO    LOCAL    LAWS:    Sec.    5.  That 

all  dead  bodies,  or  parts  thereof,  of  any  foreign  game  animals,  or  game  or 
song  birds,  the  impcrtation  of  which  is  prohibited,  or  the  dead  bodies  or 
parts  thereof,  of  any  wild  game  animals,  or  game  or  song  birds  transported 
into  any  State  or  Territory,  or  remaining  therein  for  use,  consumption,  sale, 
or  storage  therein,  shall,  upon  arrival  in  such  State  or  Territory  be  subject 
to  the  operation  and  effect  of  the  laws  of  such  State  or  Territory  enacted 
in  the  exercise  of  its  police  powers,  to  the  same  extent  and  in  the  same 
manner  as  though  such  animals  or  birds  had  been  produced  in  such  State  or 
Territory  and  shall  be  not  exempt  therefrom  by  reason  of  being  introduced 
therein  in  original  packages  or  otherwise.  This  act  shall  not  prevent  the 
importation,  transportation,  or  sale  of  birds  or  bird  plumage  manufactured 
from  the  feathers  of  barnyard  fowl.  Approved  May  25,  1900. 

a  On  September  13,  1900,  the  Secretary  of  Agriculture  (Circular  No.  30, 
Biological  Survey)  extended  the  list  of  species  which  can  be  imported  with- 
out permit,  as  follows: 

Mammals. — Anteaters,  armadillos,  bears,  chimpanzees,  elephants,  hippo- 
potamuses, hyenas,  jagaurs,  kangaroos,  leopards,  lions,  lynxes,  manatees, 
monkeys,  ocelots,  orang-utans,  panthers,  raccoons,  rhinoceroses,  sea-lions, 
seals,  sloths,  tapir.3,  tigers,  or  wildcats. 

Birds. — Swans,  wild  doves,  or  wild  pigeons  of  any  kind. 

ReptileSj — Alligators,  lizards,  snakes,,  tortoises,  or  other  reptiles  (ex- 
cept in  Hawaii — see  Circular  No.  36,  Biological  Survey,  issued  May  22,  1902.) 

6  See  Circular  No.  101,  Division  of  Customs,  issued  June  28,  1900;  for 
regulations  of  the  Department  of  Agriculture  see  Circular  No.  29,  Biologi- 
cal Survey,  issued  July  13,  1900. 


TABI^E  SHOWING  WHAT  RAW  FUR  SKINS  ARK  TO  BE  CUT  OPEN  OR  I.EFT 
CASED.    WHETHER  FUR  OR  FI,ESH  SIDE  OUT.    AI.SO  ADDITIONAI^ 
REMARKS  INDICATING  COMPLETENESS  OF  SKINS  AS 
DESIRED  BY  THE  FUR  TRADE- 


Kind  of  Skin. 

Indicating 
whether  skin 
should  be  cut 
open  on  the 
belly  or  left 
cased. 

Indicating  how 
skins  are  to 
be  turned  be- 
fore permitting 
them  to  dry. 

Cased  or  open 

Fur  side  out. . 

Cat,  Wild   

"  Civet   

**   Ringtail  . 

Fox,  Black  

"    Silver  ... 
"    Cross    . . . 
"    White  ... 
"  Red 

"  Grey   

"    Kitt  or 

Swift  .. 

Cased   

Cased  ....  

Flesh  side  out. 
Flesh  side  out. 
Fur  or  flesh  out 
Fur  or  flesh  out 
Fur  side  out. . 

<(              (<  i€ 

<(              *€  <( 
<<              ((  *i 

Fur  or  flesh  out 
Fur  or  flesh  out 
Fur  or  flesh  out 

Mink   

Mountain  Lion 
Muskrats  

Otter  

Flesh  side  out 
Flesh  side  out 
Fur  or  flesh  out 
Fur  or  flesh  out 
Fur  or  flesh  out 
Flesh  side  out 
Flesh  side  out 
Fur  or  flesh  out 
Fur  or  flesh  out 

Otter,  Sea  

Skunk   

Weasel  

Cased  or  open 

Open  or  cased 
Cased  or  open 

Leave  head,  feet  and  claws  at- 
Feet  off.  [tached. 
Stretch  round.  Feet  and  tail  off. 
Leave  head  and  claws  attached. 
Feet  off. 

Skin  should  be  complete. 


Additional  Remarks. 


Tail  and  feet  off. 

-     "  [feet  off. 

Skin  should  be  complete  except 
Skin  should  be  complete,  [feet off. 
Skin  should  be  complete  except 
Skin  should  be  complete. 
Skin  should  be  complete. 
Skin  should  be  complete. 
Skin  should  be  complete. 


Take  advantage  of  bounty. 


Preference,  if  any,  denoted  by  heavier  type. 


H 
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0 

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p 

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rg  lO 

oo'  00  o' 

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loooo  —  iTjOcMOOt^oiOLOooomcMo 
1— (r^vDi^p>*or^oOLOiocMCNjGOoiocM^oo 


.— (  I— (CMCMCNjrOOCM 


CM— (VOVOVOr^Or-lVO 


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OOOOOOOO^OiOOOOOOOOOOOCMO 
u^lOLOuOC^lO■^lOlOfOLOOO^OOOr--OOOlOO 

— iCMt^lOi-HtNjrOVO  CMOvOCMVOOsJCMr-tOO— I  00 
I— (— (rOiO       CM  >— I  LO^O       CMt^LO       OOuOCsl  T}- 


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rH  r-H  CM  r<> 


o  o  o  o 

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I000000i00000i0000000  0_00i0r00 

o     r-T  lo     o"  \6  o'  ^'  vo'  o'  •"-T  r>r  o  o'  lo  tj-'  o"  lo'  cm'  o' 


oo  c 
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t-»  Tj-       00  OJ 


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uoOOOOOrOOPOOOOOrHiOOOOOOOvOO 


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O  O^  lO  .-H 
o'  o'  O  <M 

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OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO  oooo 

o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  lo  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  LO  o  oooo 

ioo_ou^u-5o_^i--iiovor-.o_^or-.u^cDo_uooooioo  ooom 

CM        VO  ^  CO  O        rH  rH  lO  a^  LO  CO  >0  CM  lO  CM  O  LO  O        O  O  1/5  O  i-T 

CMCMt^CM        lO       CO  OOt^       ^OVOC^I        OOOTf        lO  lOrHON 

rH  rH  lO  CM  VO  CO 


OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO 
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0_^  O^  0_^  O  LO  O^  0_^      00^  ""^J-  O^  O  O  O  O  O  CM  O^  O^  O  U-)  o 

ooo^OrHfocxjodvOrHioor^rooeiococMOoio  cT 
CMCsir^O      '<^-      CO         cOtj-  rocMO 


oooo 

OOOO 
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0  CM  O       O  O  Tj-  o 

rH  vo     o  to 


O^^rO 


OOOOOOOOLOOOOOOOOOOOOOO  OOOO 

O  O  O  O  O  O  O  O  LO  LO  O  O  O  o  o  o  o  o  o  o      O  O  O  O  lO 

OiOLOOOOO^MDOC7NrOO^OOOO_^OCMO_^OOiOO  OOOI^ 

CXDt^rDLOrOOOr^OrHLOLOOOrO^lOLOCMOLOOO         lo  OO'  lo  rH 

rHTj-      ^QCMO^      OXt^      cm  lOrHt^ 

rH  rH  lO        lO  CM  CM 


ON 


g 
3 

Ph 

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Q 


'O        U        'g  X'.  -  ,  .  -  P 


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a 


(/!   »-i  »-• 

o  <u  o 

W  .r-       •    r-    P,  Jj  CO 


(LI  O  O 


KEY 

1  Animal  is  numerous. 

2  Animal  is  rather  scarce. 

3  Animal  is  in  sections  only, 

4  Animal  is  scarce. 

5  None  exist  or  unknown. 

6  Animal  is  nearly  extinct. 

7  Animal  is  extinct. 


Geographical  Distribution 
of 

Fur  Bearing  Animals  of  North 
America 


KKY 

*  Regulated  by  I^aw. 
t  No  l^aw. 

X  Panthers,  Gaugars  or 

Jaguars. 
§  State  or  Co.  pays  Bounty. 
!l    Special  Park  I^aw. 
II  Special  Laws  in  Various 

Provinces. 


Alabama  

2 

3 

^  7 

5 

2 

2 

0 

5 

o 

o 

o 

o 

o 

*2 

0 

1 

1 

1 

5 

5 

3 

o 

■2 
O 

■2 

o 

5 

5 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

5 

6 

1 

1 

1 

1 

2 

5 

5 

5 

1 

2 

1 

.1 

3 

2 

3 

4 

c 

o 

5 

2 

2 

c 

o 

2 

2^ 

«o 

4 

3 

1 

5 

5 

gl 

2 

2 

3 

2 

4 

5 

D 

5 

5 

5 

5 

5 

■2 
O 

3 

2 

1 

1 

1 

5 

5 

1 

California  

•t 

2 

3 

\ 

4 

2 

2 

3 

c 

o 

2 

2 

2 

4 

2 

3 

5 

5 

1 

* 

1 

I 

2 

4 

*4 

2 

2 

c 

o 

c 
D 

2 

2 

4 

2 

3 

2 

2 

5 

7 

I 

Connecticut. . . 

^ 

2 

c 

O 

O 

5 

5 

5 

4 

5 

6 

1 

2 

2 

1 

1 

2 

5 

6 

** 

5 

4 

c 
0 

0 

5 

4 

2 

5 

7 

2 

1 

2 

4 

5 

7 

Florida  

•t 

I 

4 

5 

4 

3 

2 

2 

0 

c 

o 

c 
0 

2 

o 

3 

4-0 

1 

5 

5 

4 

,t 

4 

4 

3 

2 

5 

5 

5 

5 

4 

2 

5 

5 

5 

3 

■i-o 

1 

1 

1 

2 

5 

5 

4 

Idaho  

1 

2 

*3 

2 

4 

c 

4 

c 

o 

o 

3 

1 

4 

•2 
O 

•2 

0 

2 

2 

3 

3 

5 

2 

2 

7 

1 

* 

I 

5 

5 

5 

4 

2 

c 

o 

*2 

*2 

^ 

2 

4 

2 

2 

2 

2 

5 

4 

t 

I 

5 

4 

2 

c 

o 

5 

c 

o 

5 

2 

o 

c 

c 
0 

C 

o 

7 

2 

5 

c 

0 

1 

2 

2 

2 

5 

6 

IndianTerritoryt 

1 

4 

2 

2 

2 

1^ 

c 

v) 

c 

o 

5 

/I 

1 

c 

o 

c 

o 

c 
0 

2 

D 

7 

1 

2 

5 

5 

I 

*1 

1  o 

f4 

*4 

f4 

|o 

To 

|o 

lo 

+9 
1  ^ 

+9 
T^ 

|o 

+7 

+7 

*1 

To 

+9 
T^ 

Tl 

T-i 

+9 
T^ 

To 

T3 

Kansas  

.t 

4 

2 

3 

2 

c 

o 

c 

o 

5 

2 

1 

c 

o 

c 

o 

2 

5 

1 

2 

4 

5 

1 

.t 

1 

3 

4 

3 

2 

c: 
o 

c 

o 

c 

2 

2 

c 
o 

c 

o 

2 

2 

1 

2 

4 

c 

0 

2 

Louisiana  

.t 

3 

4 

4 

2 

2 

c 
0 

5 

5 

5 

4 

1 

5 

c 

O 

5 

o 

L 

5 

2 

1 

1 

5 

5 

3 

* 

*4 

2 

c 
0 

c 

0 

4 

o 

4 

4 

2 

5 

5 

2 

*9 

1 

5 

4 

5 

2 

1 

6 

g4 

* 

4 

2 

2 

c 

o 

5 

5 

5 

5 

2 

3 

c 

o 

c 

o 

4 

1 

5 

4 

1 

1 

3 

5 

6 

Massachusetts 

•t 

^ 

^4 

c 

o 

5 

5 

5 

2 

5 

c 
0 

34 
g4 

4 

1 

5 

D 

5 

2 

2 

7 

4 

Michigan  

* 

*1 

3 

3 

*4 

^2 

c 
0 

c 

o 

4 

4 

5 

0 

o 

I 

5 

0 

£^ 

i 

*1 

0 

83 

Minnesota — 

* 

*1 

3 

4 

*4 

3 

1^ 

c 

o 

4 

4 

2 

5 

c 
0 

3 

3 

1 

5 

*6 

0 

2 

D 

82 

Mississippi  

.'t 

4 

4 

3 

-? 
o 

5 

5 

5 

5 

2 

2 

5 

5 

5 

1 

5 

4 

1 

2 

1 

0 

5 

2 

Missouri  

•t 

1 

4 

3 

4 

3 

1 

5 

5 

5 

5 

5 

2 

2 

5 

5 

5 

1 

5 

3 

1 

1 

1 

4 

5 

2 

2 

3 

2 

*2 

3 

c 

o 

c 

o 

c 

O 

4 

4 

1 

5 

•2 
O 

■2 
O 

2 

1 

2 

5 

2 

2 

2 

6 

1 

* 

To 

*4 

+9 

■fl 

T-1- 

To 

To 

To 

To 

To 

+9 

T-i 

T3 

To 

+7 

T/ 

T7 

•3-1 

Tl 

To 

To 

Ti 

+9 
T2 

Tl 

T4 

To 

Tl 

* 

2 

2 

1 

*4 

2 

4 

5 

5 

5 

5 

5 

2 

2 

5 

7 

7 

1 

2 

*4 

4 

2 

1 

3 

5 

1 

NewHampshire* 

1 

3 

7 

*4 

3 

5 

5 

*4 

6 

4 

4 

2 

5 

5 

3 

*2 

1 

5 

*4 

5 

1 

1 

1 

6 

4 

t 

3 

4 

7 

3 

3 

4 

5 

7 

5 

5 

5 

2 

6 

5 

6 

6 

1 

5 

3 

6 

1 

1 

2 

5 

6 

New  Mexico. . . 

* 

t3 

1 

1 

*4 

l\ 

3 

4 

5 

5 

5 

5 

2 

1 

5 

5 

6 

t3 

3 

6 

2 

1 

1 

5 

5 

§1 

New  York  

*1 

3 

7 

*4 

4 

5 

5 

6 

*5 

*6 

H 

*1 

*5 

5 

6 

4 

*1 

5 

*6 

5 

t2 

*1 

1 

6 

6 

North  Carolina 

•t 

1 

3 

7 

4 

3 

2 

2 

5 

5 

5 

5 

2 

2 

5 

5 

5 

1 

5 

2 

-  1 

1 

1 

2 

5 

6 

North  Dakota. 

* 

1 

4 

1 

*3 

4 

5 

5 

5 

5 

4 

4 

1 

5 

4 

4 

4 

1 

6 

*3 

5 

4 

1 

2 

7 

§1 

*1 

6 

6 

*6 

3 

4 

5 

5 

5 

5 

5 

3 

3 

6 

7 

*1 

16 

6 

3 

1 

*1 

2 

5 

6 

Oklahoma  

* 

1 

4 

3 

6 

4 

1 

5 

5 

5 

5 

5 

3 

1 

5 

5 

5 

1 

5 

6 

1 

1 

1 

3 

5 

1 

* 

1 

2 

2 

*2 

1 

4 

5 

4 

5 

5 

3 

2 

3 

3 

2 

2 

1 

g2 

3 

5 

1 

1 

1 

6 

1 

Pennsylvania. 

t 

1 

*3 

7 

*4 

§2 

6 

5 

6 

5 

5 

6 

^2 

g3 

5 

6 

6 

12 

1:3 

4 

3 

1 

3 

2 

5 

7 

Rhode  Island.. 

.t 

.  1 

7 

7 

7 

4 

6 

5 

7 

5 

5 

5 

^2 

§4 

5 

5 

6 

2 

5 

4 

6 

2 

1 

2 

5 

7 

South  Carolina 

t 

1 

3 

5 

3 

2 

1 

5 

5 

5 

5 

5 

2 

2 

5 

5 

5 

1 

5 

2 

1 

1 

1 

4 

5 

3 

South  Dakota.. 

* 

1 

3 

1 

*4 

4 

4 

5 

5 

5 

5 

6 

1 

4 

5 

6 

6 

1 

§3 

*4 

5 

4 

1 

2 

5 

> 

1 

6 

7 

6 

3 

2 

7 

5 

5 

5 

5 

2 

1 

5 

5 

5 

3 

13 

4 

1 

1 

1 

4 

5 

6 

Texas  

* 

1 

3 

2 

*6 

3 

1 

3 

5 

5 

5 

5 

3 

1 

5 

5 

5 

1 

16 

4 

1 

1 

1 

5 

5 

§1 

Utah  

* 

2 

3 

2 

*4 

2 

4 

5 

5 

5 

5 

5 

2 

1 

5 

7 

5 

1 

2 

*4 

6 

3 

2 

3 

5 

1 

* 

1 

^2 

7 

*4 

2 

5 

5 

*4 

5 

6 

6 

12 

5 

5 

§3 

2 

1 

§4 

*4 

5 

2 

1 

2 

6 

§4 

Virginia  

t 

1 

4 

7 

7 

4 

2 

5 

5 

5 

5 

5 

3 

3 

5 

5 

5 

1 

7 

4 

1 

1 

2 

3 

5 

6 

Washington. . . 

t 

3 

3 

2 

4 

g2 

5 

5 

4 

5 

6 

4 

1 

5 

2 

2 

1 

g3 

4 

5 

2 

2 

2 

6 

§1 

West  Virginia. 

* 

1 

4 

7 

6 

4 

*3 

5 

5 

5 

5 

5 

2 

1 

5 

5 

5 

2 

16 

4 

1 

1 

*1 

4 

5 

6 

* 

*1 

3 

4 

*4 

§2 

6 

5 

*4 

5 

§4 

^4 

§2 

5 

5 

4 

*4 

*1 

5 

H 

5 

1 

1 

1 

6 

l2 

1 

112 

2 

*4 

1 

5 

5 

7 

5 

7 

6 

1 

4 

5 

6 

*4 

2 

4 

6 

5 

2 

1 

2 

7 

§1 

1 

3 

3 

3 

3 

5 

5 

3 

3 

3 

3 

1 

5 

3 

3 

3 

1 

3 

3 

5 

3 

2 

1 

2 

3 

2 

1 

3 

3 

1 

1 

1 

5 

5 

5 

5 

3 

2 

5 

5 

5 

3 

J3 

6 

2 

3 

1 

5 

5 

1 

The  above  table,  the  result  of  a  months'  exhaustive  inquiry  and  energy  gives  ready  information 
as  to  "where  and  where  not"  any  of  the  Fur  Bearing  Animals  are  to  be  found.  The  legal  regulation  of 
Hunting  and  Trapping  (Game  Laws)  also  Bounty  offered  and  paid  are  modified  by  the  various  Legis- 
lative bodies  ot  our  states  also  Congress,  from  year  to  year.  Therefore  one  requiring  latt  st  informa- 
tion should  write  the  Game  Warden  or  to  the  Governor  of  the  respective  locality.  For  further 
particulars  see  page  . 


The  Following  Table  Shows  Number  and  Kind  of  Raw  Fui 

in  London  at  Timi 


HUDSON'S  BAY  COMPANY 


KINDS 

Totals 
1900 

Totals 
1901 

Totals 
1902 

Totals 
1903 

Totals 
1904 

Totals 
1905 

Cat,  Civet  

655 
8,856 

42,582 

1,141 
8,206 

45,001 

824 
7,512 

49,190 

447 
6,969 

38,636 

289 
5,276 

30,056 

489 
5,483 

48,255 

"  House 

Ringtail 

"  Wild  

I^isher 

Fox,  Blue  

3  437 

9  999 

2,580 

2,090 

2,801 

Cross 
"  Grey 

1 ,851 

1  07/1 

2,208 

2,387 

3,626 

"  Kitt(orSwi*ft) 

"  Red  

"  Silver  

"    White  . 

Marten  

Mink  

Musquash  

Black 

5,831 
317 
2  906 
4,446 
55,329 
47,560 
928,199 

5,912 
280 
8  487 
5,701 
56,491 
57,349 
1,650,214 

6,200 
491 

10  717 

9,031 

78,629 
66,360 

1,488,287 

6,185 
422 
5,549 
19,189 

54,395 
55,455 

924,439 

7,181 
490 
4,634 
36,028 

35,579 
55,889 

1,056,253 

7,682 
599 
2,752 
48,365 
41,245 
47,235 
689,611 

Opossum  

Otter  

"  Sea  

9,160 

8,675 

10,273 

6,452 

4,888 

9,843 

Raccoon  

Seal,  Fur  

9,058 

1,967 

1,024 

717 

404 

264 

"  Hair  

Skunk  

Wolf  

Krmine(&  Wh.W.) 

6,027 
2,589 

772 

5,682 
1,347 

635 

5.206 
1,790 

695 

5,427 
1,972 

627 

6,090 
1,196 

412 

9,032 
1,555 

456 

Totals 
1901 


7,878 
13,618 
17,655 
67,476 

57,536 


29,621 
3,481 
5,411 
2,971 
29,638 
1,497 
109,449 
1,374 
19,932 
18,222 
39,630 
333,448 
2,201,121 
88,208 
215,736 
16,215 
422 
306,680 


700,041 
31,839 

876 


Totals 
1902 


10,915 
14,030 
15,334 
102,955 
60,258 
*  2,003 
31,938 
2,669 
3,141 
2,771 
37,824 
1,327 
43,992 
826 
15,764 
12,353 
46,791 
295,702 
2,958,508 
85,866 
167,324 
11,301 
406 
235,757 


835,677 
36,502 

599 

*  13,520 


*  Estimated. 


Newhouse  Steel  Traps. 

All  Steel  Traps  which  are  stamped  "S.  Newhouse,  Oneida  Community, 
N.  Y.''  are  warranted  free  from  all  defects.    Defective  parts 
are  readily  replaced  by  the  Manufacturers. 


NO  0.    NEWHOUSE  GOPHER  OR  HOUSE  RAT  TRAP. 

Spread  of  jaws  3l^  inches;  made  with  or  without  chain.  This  is  the 
smallest  steel  trap  made,  and  not  strong  enough  for  muskrats,  though  often 
used.    Can  be  used  for  weasels  and  ermines. 


i 


^  Skins  (American)  Offered  and  Soid  at  tlie  Auction  Rooms  I 

and  Year  Stated.  j 

1 


C.  M.  I.AMPSON  &  CO. 

A.  &  W. 
NKST5TTT 

i-^  XVOXj  J.  i  X 

Totals 
1904 

Jan. 

1905 

March 
1905 

June 
1905 

Oct. 

1905 

Totals 
1905 

Jan. 

1906 

March 
1906 

June 
1906 

Totals 
3  Sales 
1906 

Totals, 
Oct.  1905 
Jan. Mar. & 
June  1906 

8.625 
10,135 
16,668 
60  J  73 
55,542 
2,375 
22.065 
2,385 
3,858 
2,929 
36,416 
4,541 
44,605 
958 
14,209 
17,657 
62,093 
235,378 
3,547,935 
76,877 
99,474 
16,111 
234 
^23,465 

3.351 
3,589 
4,704 
10,211 

13,860 
201 

4,158 

7,197 
3,886 
8,922 
43,586 
23,982 
804 
5,327 
2,583 
3.437 

I,  951 
22,792 

2,761 
41,731 

607 

II,  749 
4,303 
22,502 

82,704 
1,020,527 
10,969 
112,665 
2,207 
333 
168,662 

2,107 
902 
2,780 
10,700 

10,958 
112 

3,177 

552 
941 

1,587 
77 

7,529 
none 

369 

13,207 
9,318 
17.993 
64,574 
56,329 
1,117 
13,031 
2,583 
3,533 
2,878 
45.340 
5,129 
63,666 
997 
23,329 
21 ,521 
58,961 
145,112 
3,428,505 
37,924 
273,677 
9,164 
333 
326,431 

2,287 
2,477 

4.309 
9,835 
24,952 

210 

2,500 

5,955 
3,100 
8,414 
94,392 
35.508 
772 
5,884 
2,211 
1.513 
3,697 
23,565 
1,404 
25,496 
992 
3,702 
7,737 
21,136 
126,161 
1,074,550 
11,655 
220.000 
2,517 
505 
135,350 

5,022 
1,830 
1.246 
13,696 
16.784 
350 
7.454 
1,627 
339 
819 
18.651 
1,332 
15.607 
204 
4,023 
3,854 
7,684 
54,928 
545,235 
15,945 
222,250 
1,052 

13,264 
7,407 

13,969 
117,923 

77,244 
1,332 

15,838 
5,S58 
1,992 
5,046 

53,701 
5,252 

52,567 

I,  379 

II,  060 
20,825 

40,346 
237,981 
3.166,982 
41,329 
635,299 
5,340 
505 

260,322 

2,602 
1,126 
8,463 
11,423 

6,452 

2,226 
614 
72 
395 
12,641 
467 
16,443 
79 
3,230 
4,545 
7,041 
27,256 
839,182 

48 
573 
6,266 

I,  527 

II,  673 
155 

3,740 
4,917 

7,567 
14,218 
606,772 
13,811 
103,057 

605 

48 
183 
467 
109 
1,397 
119 
4,413 
3,651 
3.967 
4,270 
146,471 
2,593 
10.533 
995 

140 
550 
11,485 
5/6 
11,464 
183 
3,335 
9,234 
11,526 
56,892 
1,547,197 
13,729 
193,049 
1,771 

371 

15,815 
732 
8,865 
116 
3,427 
8,650 
24,925 
43,920 
1,654,735 
10,551 
47,422 
5,357 

279.427 
2,758 

86,717 

64,420 

6,632 

64,606 

60,366 

26,509 

847,605 
44,821 
1,134 
21,920 

288,109 
8,250 
144 
5,047 

317,824 
20,904 
316 
20,109 

163,847 
8,075 
100 
5,472 

4,153 
889 

28 

1,253 

776,933 
38,118 
588 
31,881 

274,544 
11,922 
227 
18,007 

445,051 
15,843 
757 
93,735 

205,420 
16,818 
239 
18,476 

925,015 
44,583 
1.223 
130,218 

165.490 
13,525 
43 
7,985 

NO.  1.    NEWHOUSE  STEEL  TRAP  FOR  MUSKRATS. 

Spread  of  jaws,  four  inches;  made  with  or  without  chains.  While  this 
trap  is  solely  intended  for  muskrats,  it  will  hold  a  mink,  but  it's  not  a 
good  idea  to  overtax  steel  traps.  Can  be  used  for  skunk,  weasel,  ermine, 
marten  and  other  small  animals. 


424         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


NO.    V/2.    NEWHOUSE    STEEL   TRAP    FOR  MINK. 

Spread  of  jaws,  4%  inches.  Is  especially  made  to  hold  mink,  marten, 
skunk  and  swift  fox.  Will  hold  larger  animals,  but  cannot  recommend  its 
use  for  fox,  badger  or  raccoon.  Probably  more  animals,  the  skins  of  which 
in  the  aggregate  foot  up  a  larger  sum  in  dollars  and  cents,  are  caught  in 
this  size  trap. 


NO.  2.    NEWHOUSE  STEEL  TRAP  FOR  FOX. 

This  trap  has  4%  inch  jaws,  and  differs  only  from  the  No.  l^^  trap  in 
that  it  has  two  instead  of  one  spring.  This  trap  is  recommended  for  cap- 
turing the  red,  gray  and  other  foxes;  is  suitable  for  raccoon,  badger  and 
fisher. 


NO  2«/2.    NEWHOUSE  SINGLE  SPRING  STEEL  TRAP. 

This  trap  was  built  by  the  manufacturer  on  suggestions  received  from 
experienced  trappers.  It  is  set  on  otter  slides,  the  teeth  are  very  sharp, 
and  the  curved  plate  attached  to  the  pan  is  higher  than  the  teeth.  The  trap 
can  be  sprung,  by  the  animal  touching  the  curved  piece  of  steel  with  its 
belly,  foot  or  leg.  The  jaws  have  a  spread  of  5^^  inches.  The  raised  plate 
can  be  detached  if  desired,  making  the  trap  one  of  general  utility. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


425 


NO.  3.    NEWHOUSE  STEEL  TRAP. 

Spread  of  jaws,  5i/^  inches.  Will  hold  otter,  beaver,  prairie  wolf,  red 
fox,  fisher,  wolverene.  Is  also  used  for  wildcat  and  lynx,  but  is  not  strong 
enough  for  the  gray  wolf. 


NO.  31/2.    NEWHOUSE  SINGLE  SPRING  STEEL  TRAP. 

This  trap  has  jaws  spreading  inches.  Is  similarly  constructed  as 
the  No.  2^  steel  otter  trap,  but  built  expressly  for  trappers  who  desire  a 
stronger  single  spring  otter  trap  than  the  No.  2^. 


NO.  4.    NEWHOUSE   STEEL  TRAP. 

Spread  of  jaws,  6^  inches.  This  trap  is  expressly  built  for  beaver  and 
prairie  wolf,  but  will  hold  most  any  animal,  from  the  timber  wolf  dowrv 
Trappers  use  this  size  for  the  Canadian  lynx,  also  for  the  brush  wolf. 


426         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


NO.  4|/2  .    NEWHOUSE  WOLF  TRAP. 

Spread  of  jaws,  eight  inches,  other  parts  in  proportion;  is  provided  with 
a  pronged  "drag,"  a  heavy  snap,  extra  heavy  steel  swivel  and  chain  five 
feet  long.  The  latter  is  warranted  to  hold  two  thousand  pounds.  As  above 
shown  the  trap  weighs  eight  pounds.    It  will  hold  the  mountain  lion. 


NO.  5.    NEWHOUSE  STEEL  TRAP. 

This  trap  has  jaws  spreading  11%  inches  apart,  and  with  a  short  chain 
weighs  nineteen  pounds.  It  is  expressly  made  for  the  black  and  brown  bear. 
The  trap  is  furnished  with  a  short  swivel  link,  and  large  ring,  all  sufficiently 
strong  to  detain  the  monster,  especially  when  its  sharp  steel  teeth  are  im- 
pregnated in  the  skin  or  bone  of  his  foot  or  leg. 


NO.  6.    NEWHOUSE  STEEL  BEAR  TRAP. 


This  monster  bear-trap  is  designed  for  the  grizzly  or  polar  bear,  also 
shipped  from  this  country  to  Africa,  presumably  to  hold  the  lion.  One  of 
these  traps  was  on  exhibition  at  the  Minnesota  State  Fair  in  connection 
with  our  (Andersch  Bros.)  fur  exhibit  in  1902,  and  thousands  of  trappers 
viewed  this  monster  trap,  all  feeling  assured  of  its  holding  the  grizzly  bear. 
The  jaws  have  a  spread  of  sixteen  inches,  and  the  entire  trap  as  illustrated 
wreighs  forty- two  pounds. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


427 


NO.  14.    NEWHOUSE  STEEL  TRAP. 


Spread  of  jaws  ^'Vz  inches.  Is  similar  in  size  to  the  No.  4  beaver  trap, 
except  that  it  has  6  sharp  steel  teeth.  The  springs  are  also  heavier  and 
rise  higher,  thus  readily  holding  the  animal's  leg  in  a  vice-like  grip. 


NO.  15.    NEWHOUSE  STEEL  TRAP. 

Spread  of  jaws  11%  inches.  Has  a  %  inch  off-set,  otherwise  similar 
to  the  No.  5.  This  trap  was  made  to  meet  the  wants  of  experienced  trap- 
pers who  claim  many  advantages  over  the  old  style  No.  5. 


NO.  21/2.    NEWHOUSE  STEEL  TRAP. 

This  single  spring  trap  is  similar  to  the  No.  2^,  except  it  is  minus  the 
teeth  and  raised  plate. 

No.  31^.  The  manufacturers  also  make  a  trap  similar  to  the  No.  3^, 
minus  teeth  and  raised  plate,  known  as  the  No.  31^. 


428         Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


NO.  23.    NEWHOUSE  STEEL  CLUTCH  TRAP. 

The  above  corresponds  in  size  and  spread  of  jaws  with  the  No.  3  New- 
house.  This  clutch  attachment  was  originally  sent  to  the  manufacturer  by 
an  old  trapper,  the  inventor,  who  has  had  wonderful  success  with  it  in 
taking  beaver.  He  sets  it  under  water  at  the  right  depth,  with  the  clutch 
end  farthest  from  the  shore,  and  sticks  two  small  twigs  upright  in  the 
ground  just  on  the  landward  side  of  the  trap.  The  beaver  swims  with  his 
forelegs  folded  back  against  his  body,  propelling  himself  by  his  hind  feet. 
When  he  feels  his  breast  touch  the  bank  or  any  obstruction,  he  puts  down 
his  forefeet.  The  trapper  can  calculate  the  position  of  the  trap  and  up- 
right twigs  so  that  the  beaver  will  put  his  forefoot  into  the  trap  and  spring 
it,  when  the  clutch  will  seize  him  securely.  Clutch  attachment  can  be  re- 
moved. 

No.  24.  The  manufacturers  have  a  trap  known  as  the  No.  24,  which  in 
size  and  spread  of  jaws,  corresponds  with  the  No.  4  steel  trap,  but  has  the 
above  clutch  feature. 


NO.  50.    NEWHOUSE  BEAR  TRAP. 

Spread  of  jaws  9  inches,  weighs  as  above  11 14  lbs.  In  construction 
it  resembles  the  No.  5,  except  being  smaller.  It  is  intended  for  smaller 
bears. 


NO.  81.    NEWHOUSE  WEBBED  JAW  TRAP. 

Spread  of  jaws  4  inches;  corresponds  in  size  and  width  to  the  No.  1. 
This  style  of  trap  is  designed  to  prevent  the  animal  from  gnawing  their 
legs  off. 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide.  429 


NO.  91.    NEWHOUSE  DOUBLE  JAW  TRAP. 

A  new  style  of  trap  that  takes  a  firm  grip  high  upon  the  animal's  leg. 
Muskrats  do  not  usually  gnaw  but  twist  their  legs  out,  especially  when  caught 
by  the  foreleg  which  has  much  smaller  bones  and  less  muscle  than  the  hind 
leg.  These  traps  rarely  break  the  leg  bone,  because  of  the  double  jaw  sur- 
face.   Spread  of  jaws  5i/^  inches. 

No.  911/^.  The  manufacturers  make  a  double  jaw  trap,  corresponding 
in  size  with  the  No.  iy2  except  width  of  jaws  is  6^/^  inches. 


NO.  150.    NEWHOUSE  BEAR  TRAP. 

Spread  of  jaws  9  inches.  Is  identical  with  trap  No.  50,  excepting  trap 
has  a  %  inch  off-set  jaws,  which  allows  the  springs  to  come  up  higher,  thus 
securing  a  better  grip.    Weight,  as  per  illustration,  11^  lbs. 


NEWHOUSE  CLAMPS  FOR  SETTING  STEEL,  TRAPS. 

These  clamps  are  made  to  overcome  the  difficulty  and  danger  of  setting 
steel  traps,  especially  the  larger  size.    They  are  made  in  three  sizes. 

No.  4.  Clamp  for  traps  up  to  No.  4. 

No.  5  Clamp  for  all  large  sizes  including  No.  6. 

No.  6  Clamp  a  stih  stronger  clamp  than  No.  5,  for  same  size  traps. 


430 


Andersch  Bros/  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


Victor  Steel  Traps. 

The  most  popular  cheap  trap  made.    When  in  want  of  a  low  priced  trap, 
call  for  the  Victor  and  take  no  substitute. 


The  above  cut  represents  the  single  spring  Victor  traps,  sizes  0,  1,  1%. 
These  traps  are  used  for  catching  small  fur-bearing  animals,  such  as  skunk» 
opossum,  muskrat,  etc. 


The  Nos.  2,  3  and  4  Victor  traps  are  made  with  strong  double  springs 
and  are  used  for  catching  the  fox,  beaver  and  animals  of  similar  size.  All 
Victor  traps  are  supplied  with  patented  wire  chains. 


Andersch  Bros.'  Hunters  and  Trappers  Guide. 


431 


Tree  Trap. 


Cut  shows  a  No.  1  Tree  trap,  prop-      Cut  shows  a  No.  2  Tree  trap  hold- 
erly  fastened  to  a  tree,  set  and  ready   ing  a  raccoon  in  a  vice-like  grip, 
for  business. 

No.  1.  Tree  traps  are  especially  adapted  to  mink,  marten  and  similar 
sized  animals.  Traps  are  usually  fastened  on  trees  3  to  5  feet  above  the 
ground,  but  can  be  utilized  advantageously  elsewhere. 

No.  2  Tree  traps  are  adapted  to  capture  fisher,  raccoon  and  opossum. 


STOP  THIEF  WIRE  TRAP. 

This  trap  is  very  effective,  humane,  and  is  highly  endorsed  by  leading 
trappers,  especially  the  first  three  sizes. 

Made  in  4  Sizes. 
No.  1.    Gopher  or  Squirrel.  No.  3.  Skunk. 

No.  2.    Mink  or  Marten.  No.  3i/^.    Raccoon  or  Badger. 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


Description  of  Fur  Bearing  Animals. 


Badger   

.    .    .    .  52 

...  69 

Bear,  Black  .... 

.    .    .  99,  155 

Lynx     .  .   

Brown     .    .  . 

.    .     102,  154 

Marten  

•    .  29,  159 

Cinnamon    .  . 

.    .    .    .  T02 

Mink,  All  Sections    .  . 

23  to  27-159 

Grizzly- 

.    ...  105 

Cotton  .... 

...  25 

Polar  .... 

.    .    .    .  106 

Fish  

...  25 

Beaver  

•    •     125,  153 

Mountain  Lion  .... 

...  67 

Cat,  Civet  .... 

.    .    .    .  49 

Muskrat  

Ringtail   .    .  . 

.    ...  114 

Opossum  

...  117 

Wild  .... 

•    .    .    .  57 

Otter,  Land  

Sea   

•     135,  152 

Cougar   

.    .    .    .  67 

•     139,  150 

Ermine  

.    .    .    .  19 

Raccoon  

Fisher  

.    .    .    .  31 

Seals,  Alaska  Fur     .  . 

.     146,  149 

Fox,  Arctic  .... 

.    ...  157 

Seals  

...  143 

Black  .... 

•    •    .  95,  156 

Skunk   

...  39 

Blue  .... 

.    .    .    .  97 

Weasel,  Brown  .... 

...  15 

Cross  .... 

.    .    .  93,  156 

White  

...  13 

Grey  .... 

.    ...  88 

Wolf,  Black  

...  74 

Kitt  .... 

.    .    .    .  90 

Brush   

...  73 

Red  .... 

.    .    .  83,  156 

Prairie  or  Coyote 

...  77 

.    .    .  94,  156 

Timber  .... 

...  71 

Swift  .... 

.    .    .    .  90 

White  

...  76 

White  .... 

.    .    .    .  97 

...  35 

Illustrations  of  Fur  Bearing  Animals. 


Badger  

•    .  54 

Fox,  Swift  

.    84,  92 

Bear,  Black  ...    88,  100, 

192,  246 

White  

.    .  96 

Grizzly  

.    .  104 

Jaguar   

8 

Polar  

.    .  98 

Lynx,  Canadian    .    .    .  . 
Young   

.    .  206 

Beaver,  Beavers  at  Work  . 

.    .  124 

.   .  64 

Male  Beaver    .    .  . 

.    .  126 

Marten  

28 

Young  Beaver  .    .  . 

.    .  206 

Mink  

.    .  39 

Cat,  Civet  

.    .  50 

Northern     .    .    .  . 

,  22,  206 
66,  208 

Ring  Tail  .... 

.    .  115 

Mountain  Lion  

Wild  

.    .  56 

...  68 

Wild,  Head     .    .  . 

•    .  57 

.   .  120 

Wild,  Northern    .  . 

.    .  58 

Muskrat  

.    .  112 

Wild  

.    .  59 

Opossum,  Opossum  and  Family  116 

Cougar,  Rocky  Mountain  . 

.    .  70 

Southern  

118 

Ermine  

18 

Otters  at  Home     .  . 

.   .  134 

Fisher  

.    13,  32 

Rabbit  

.   .  65 

Fox,  Black  

.    .  96 

Rabbit  and  Family  . 

.    .  99 

Grey  

.    .  89 

Cottontail  .... 

.    .  112 

Heads 

.    •  93 

Jack  

.    .  112 

Kitt  

.    84,  92 

Raccoon  

112,  246 

Red  

.    .  84 

At  Home  .... 

.    .  no 

Red  and  Family  .  . 

.    .  82 

Missouri  

•   .  194 

Red,  Northern     .  . 

.    .  86 

108 

Silver  Grey  .... 

.   .  92 

Illustrations  of  Fur  Bearing  Animals — Continued. 


Seals  142 

Squirrel     ........  39,  206 

Skunk,  Striped  40 

Weasel,  White  18,  112 

Wolf,  Brush  74 


Wolf,  Coyote  Hunt  .  . 

Head  of  Wolf.  . 

Prairie  .... 

Timber,  Group  of 
Wolverine,  Canadian 


75 
69 
78 
72 
36 


Illustrations  of  Skins. 


American  Raw  Fur  Skins  . 

Badger  

Baling  Raw  Fur  Skins  .  . 
Bear,  Black  

Brown  

Grizzly  

Beaver  

Beaver  

Cat,  Civet  

Wild  

Ermine  

Fisher  

Fox,  Black  

Grey  

Kitt  

Red     .    .    .  174,  176, 

Silver  Grey  .... 

Swift  

Lynx  


•  390 

202,  390, 
.  .  210 
190,  390 
.  .  190 
.  .  190 
190,  216 
.  . 

200,  390 
176,  390 
162,  390 
168,  390 
.  .  390 
174,  390 
174,  390 
214,  390 
.  .  390 
174,  390 
204,  390 


Marten  166,  390 

Pile  of  190 

Russian  (Sable)  ....  218 

Mink  164,  166,  390 

Muskrat    .......     180,  390 

Opossum  202,  390 

Otter  390 

Northern  218 

Sea    .    .         .       ...  148 

Raccoon  390 

Seal,  Fur  148 

Marbled  148 

Skunk,  Miscellaneous    .  196,  198,  390 

Weasel   390 

White  162 

Wolf;  Black  184 

Prairie  180,  390 

Timber  178,  390 

Wolverine   390 


Illustrations  of 
Traps,  Snares,  Trap  Sets,  Spring  &  Sliding  Poles,  Etc. 


Barrel  Traps — 

Muskrat  and  Mink  .    .  . 

Muskrat  and  Mink  .    .  . 

Skunk   

Box  Sets  or  Traps — 

Floating  Box  for  Muskrat 

Animals  and  Birds  .    .  . 

Animals  and  Birds  .    .  . 

Mink,  Fox,  Raccoon,  etc. 


Skunk  &  Rabbits     .  . 
Deadfalls — 

All  Kinds  of  Animals  . 
All  kinds  of  Animals  . 
All  kinds  of  Animals  . 
Fox,  Wolf,  Lynx,  etc. . 
Lynx,  Fox,  Wolverine, 

etc  

Wild  Cat,  Lynx,  Rac- 
coon, etc  

Wolf,  Fox,  Mink,  Rac- 


Hollow  Log  

336 

264 

Plank  

284 

354 

320 

264 

Hollow  Log  Sets — 

Mink,  Marten  and  Weasel 

264 

356 

Mink,  Marten,  Weasel, 

290 

Fisher  

266 

292 

Mink,  Marten,  Weasel, 

314 

Fisher  

380 

273 

Horseshoe  Nail  .... 

264 

294 

Drag  

238 

264 

Fur  Stretchers  

242 

338 

270 

Sliding  Chain  

362 

271 

Sliding  Pole  

239 

328 

Spring  Pole  

Spring  Pole  

264 

302 

298 

Spring  Pole  

300 

326 

Spring  Pole  

340 

Spring  Pole  

342 

318 

Spring  Pole  

Miscellaneous  Sets — 

360 

268 

280 

Beef  Hoist  

324 

Illustrations  of 
Traps,  Snares,  Trap  Sets,  Spring  &  Sliding  Poles,  Etc- 


-Continued. 


Combination  Bait,  Mirror 

&  Trap   342 

Fish  Hook  &  Steel  Trap  .  348 

Horseshoe  Nail  ....  264 

Horseshoe  Nail  ....  372 

Log  Pen  Trap  for  Bear  .  332 

Pitfall  for  Wolf,  Bear,  etc.  322 

Screened  Rooster  Trap   .  306 

Snare  Sets — 

Mink,  Marten,  Raccoon  .  264 

Raccoon,  Wild  Cat  .    .    .  298 

Raccoon   ^  |0 

Wolf,  Fox   374 

Steel  Trap  Sets — 

Bear   334 

Beaver   348 

Fox   286 

Fox,  Raccoon   308 

Fox,  Wolf,  Min'.:,  Rac- 
coon   314 

Lvnx   264 

Mink,  Marten  &  Fisher    .  266 

Mink,  Marten  &  Fi slier    .  275 

Mink,  Fox,  Wolf,  Lynx  .  300 

Mink,  Fox,  Weasel  .    .    .  306 

Mink   348 

Muskrat   348 

Muskrat   350 

Otter   360 


Otter   364 

Otter,  Beaver,  Mink    .    .  362 

Raccoon   286 

Raccoon   340 

Raccoon   342 


348 
286 
298 
322 
324 


Raccoon,  Mink 
Skunk  .... 
Wild  Cat,  Raccoon 
Wolf,  Fox,  Bear  . 
Wolf,  Fox  .    .  . 
Traps — 

Newhouse    ....  422  to  429 

Newhouse  Clamp     .    .    .  429 

Stop  Thief   431 

Tree  Tran   431 

Victor    430 

Water  Sets — 

Barrel    264 

Box  Trap  for  Mink, 

Muskrat   273 

Floating  Box   350 

Floating  Log   348 

Beaver   348 

Fox,  Mink,  Raccoon    .    .  308 

Muskrat   350 

Otter   360 

Otter   364 

Raccoon   286 

Log  and  Fish  Hook    .    .  348 


Illustrations  of  Game  Birds  and  Animals. 

(Other  than  Fur  Bearing  Animals.) 


Buffalo 


90 


Caribou   225 

Deer    19 

Deer   49 

Deer   121 

Swimming   ......  107 


Deer,  Tracks 


256 


Bull  Moose   226 

Quail     .   31 

Prairie  Chicken   67 

Turkey,   Wild   94 

Rocky  Mountain  Goat  ....  95 


Miscellaneous  Illustrations. 


Andersch  Bros.  Place  of 

Business   4 

Author    6 

Baling  Raw  Furs   210 

Bear  Hunter   192 

Beaver  Castoriums   132 

Beaver   Cuttings   130 

Beaver  Generative  Organs    .    .  132 

Beaver  Pelt   216 

Beaver  Tail   216 

Cleaning  Drum   148 

Climbing  Bear   260 


Deer  Tracks   256 

End  of  a  Coyote  Hunt  ....  75 

Fox  Hunter   176 

Fox  Hunter   214 

Fox  Hunters   410 

Fox  Trapper   312 

Fur  Exhibit,  Minn.  State  Fair  .  220 

Fur  Exhibit,  Minn.  State  Fair  .  222 

Mink  Trapper   408 

Mountain  Lion  Hunter  ....  208 

Muskrat  House   252 

Muskrat  Trapper   388 


Miscellaneous  Illustrations— Continued. 


Nice  Fur  Collection  376 

Prize  Drawing  of  American 

Fur  Skins  .    .    ,  390 

Result  of  Knowing  How  to 

Hunt  &  Trap  246 

Scraping  Skunk  &  Raccoon 

Skins   248 


Scene  in  Andersch  Bros'  Fur 

Room  

Skunk  Farm,  Diagram  of  .  . 

Skunk  Farm  

Skunk  Farm  

Skunk  Trapper  

We  Were  Seven  


190 
392 
394 
398 
388 
258 


Hunting  and  Trapping  Fur  Bearing  Animals. 


Badger    203 

Bear   189 

Beaver   .  215 

Cat,  Civet   201 

Ring  Tail  

Wild   207 

Cougar   209 

Frmine    161 

Fisher   .   170 

Fox   175 

Jaguar   209 

Lynx   205 


Marten  .  . 
Mink  .  •  .  •  ■ 
Mountain  Lion  . 
Muskrat  .  .  , 
Opossum  .  .  . 
Otter  .  .  . 
Sea 

Raccoon    .    .  . 
Skunk   .    .    .  . 
Weasel      .    .  . 
Wolf  &  Coyote 
Wolverine     .  . 


167 
163 
209 
211 
201 
219 
224 
193 
19s 
161 

179 
171 


Hunting  and  Trapping  Fur  Bearing  Animals. 

(By  America's  Most  Experienced  Hunters  and  Trappers.) 


Bear   332  to  334-376 

Beaver  35^^0358 

Cat,  Civet  296  to  297 

Wild   ....     297  to  300-371 

Fisher   371-375 

Fox  277-304  to  320-371 

Lynx  300  to  303 

Marten  284  to  285 

Mink     .    .    .    377-261  to  284-369-380 


Mountain  Lion  303  to  304 

Muskrat  ....  273-282-345  to  352 
Miscellaneous  Articles  .    .  369  to  389 

Opossum  343  to  344 

Otter  358  to  368-379 

Raccoons  ^75-335-343-369 

Skunk  285  to  295-377 

Weasel   261 

Wolf  and  Coyote  .    .    320  to  331-369 


Game  Laws. 


U.  S.  Game  Laws  418-419 

Open  and  Closed  Seasons  416-417 

How  To  Obtain  Game  Laws  4^5 

Miscellaneous  Hunting  and  Trapping. 

Additional  Revenue  for  Trappers  255  to  257 

Deer  Hunting  257 

Fishing  for  Bait  or  Food  382  to  384 

Good  Pointers  378 

How  to  Skin  for  Mounting     .    .    .   254 

Suffocating  Mink  &  Skunk  377 

To  Eradicate  Skunk  Odor  o  ' 

Trapper's  Outfit  '  ,  384  to  387 


Skinning  and  Stretching. 


Directions  241  to  254 

Stretching  Raccoon  Skins  337 

Sliding  and  Spring  Poles,  Drags,  Etc. 

Sliding  Poles  238-239-240-382 

Spring  Poles  ,    •    ,  238-240-379 

Drags  and  Clogs    .  238-239 

Tables  and  Statistics. 

Game  Laws,  Open  and  Closed  Season  416 

Geographical  Distribution  of  Fur-Bearing  Animals  421 

How  to  Obtain  Copies  of  State  Game  and  Fish  Laws  415 

London  Fur  Sales  422-423 

Production  of  Raw  Furs  in  U.  S.  and  Canada  420 

Showing  What  Skins  Should  Be  Cased  or  Open  419 

Trappers  Secrets. 

Notes  About  Trapping,  Decoys,  Bait,  Scent,  Poison,  Natural  and 

Artifical,  Musk   227  to  238 

Raising  Fur  Bearing  Animals  For  Profit. 

Skunk  Farm  393  to  402 

Mink  404  to  409 

Opossum  402  to  404 

Fox  40910414 


A^DERSCH  Bros. 


DEALERS  IN 


CanadianlllUUU^    Fine  RaW   1  UilU^ 

WOOL,  SHEEP  PELTS,  TALLOW, 
Beeswax,  Deerskins,  Ginseng,  Seneca   Root,  etc. 


Hunters  and  Trappers  will  realize  as  much,  if  not  more, 
for  RAW  FURS  by  shipping  to  us 
than  to  any  other  house. 

See  Our  'Banit  References. 

Ship  us  your  CATTLE  and  HORSE  HIDES,  also 
CALF  SKINS.    Write  for  our  price 
list,  shipping  tags,  etc. 

Outside  market  prices  and  prompt  cash  returns  guaranteed. 

Andersch  Bros., 

411=413^415=417=419  Main  St. 
MINNEAPOLIS,  MINNESOTA. 

BELLOW  FIND  LIST  OF  OUR  BANKEIKS. 

First  National  Bank  Minneapolis,  Minn. 

Northwestern  National  Bank  Minneapolis,  Minn. 

Security  Bank  of  Minn  Minneapolis,  Minn. 

East  Side  State  Bank  Minneapolis,  Minn. 

Second  National  Bank  Minot,  N.  D. 

Continental  National  Bank  Chicago,  111. 

Des  Moines  Savings  Bank  Des  Moines,  la. 

Merchants'  Bank  of  Canada  Winnipeg,  Canada. 

I  


